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BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


List  of  Previous  Works  by  the  same  Author 

the  river  congo,  from  its  mouth  to  bolobo 
the  kilimanjaro  expedition 
the  life  of  a  slave 
the  life  of  livingstone 


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AN    ANGONl    WARRIOR 


British  Central  Africa 


AN  ATTEMPT  TO   GIVE  SOME  ACCOUNT   OF   A    PORTION   OF 

THE  TERRITORIES  UNDER  BRITISH   INFLUENCE 
NORTH  OF  THE   ZAMBEZI 


By 

SIR    HARRY    H.   JOHNSTON,  K.C.B. 

F.Z.S.,  F.R.G.S.,  F.R.S.G.S.,  Fellow  of  Anthropological  Institute  QJ^-C  X 

Royal  Colonial  Institute,  etc. 
H.M.    Commissioner   and   Consul -General   in    British   Central    Africa 


WITH  SIX  MAPS  AND  220  ILLUSTRATIONS 
reproduced  from  the  author's  drawings  or  from  photographs 


METHUEN  &   CO. 

36,    ESSEX    street,    strand 

LONDON 

1897 


ir'St 


1} 


V^J 


PLYMOUTH 

WILLIAM    BRBNDON    AND    SON 

PRINTERS 


'•'} :; 


DEDICATION 


WHATEVER  MAY  BE  WORTHY  OF  PRAISE  IN  THIS  BOOK 

I  DEDICATE  TO  MY  COMRADES  IN  BRITISH  CENTRAL  AFRICA 

TO  THE  MEMORY  OF  THOSE  WHO  DIED 
IN   A   MANFUL  STRUGGLE — 

Captain  CECIL  MAGUIRE,   Dr.   SORABJI   BOYCE,  JOHN  KYDD 

J.   G.   BAINBRIDGE 

Lieut.  S.  ARGYLL  GILLMORE,  ALFRED  PEILE 

L.   M.   FOTHERINGHAM,  JOHN   BUCHANAN,   G.   HAMPDEN 

CHARLES  A.   GRAY,   H.   BRIGHTON 

GILBERT  STEVENSON,  J.   G.   KING,  J.    L.   NICOLL 

EDWARD  ALSTON,  and  Lieut. -Colonel  C.  A.  EDWARDS— 

AND  TO  THE  ACCEPTANCE  OF  THOSE 

STILL  LIVING  AND  WORKING 

IN  THE  SERVICE  OF  QUEEN  AND  COMPANY 

WHO  HAVE  WROUGHT  WITH  ME  ^INCE   1 889  IN  THE 

BUILDING  UP  OF  THIS  CINDERELLA  AMONG   THE  PROTECTORATES 


PREFACE 

NORTH  of  the  Zambezi  and  in  the  South  Central  portion  of  the  continent 
of  Africa,  bounded  on  the  north  by  Lake  Tanganyika  and  the  Congo 
Free  State,  on  the  north-east  by  German  East  Africa,  on  the  east,  south-east 
and  west  by  Portuguese  possessions,  lies  what  is  now  termed  British  Central 
Africa,  Protectorate  and  Sphere  of  Influence.  The  Sphere  of  Influence  is 
much  larger  than  the  actual  Protectorate,  which  is  chiefly  confined  to  the 
districts  bordering  on  Lake  Nyasa  and  on  the  river  Shire.  The  Sphere  of 
Influence  is  at  present  administered  under  the  Charter  of  the  British  South 
Africa  Company ;  the  Protectorate  has  always  been  administered  directly 
under  the  Imperial  Government  from  the  time  of  its  inception.  Circumstances 
were  so  ordered  that  I  happened  to  be  the  chief  agent  in  bringing  all  this 
territory,  directly  or  indirectly,  under  British  Influence,  both  on  behalf  of  the 
Imperial  Government  and  of  the  Chartered  Company;  and  though  I  was 
ably  seconded  by  Mr.  Alfred  Sharpe  (now  Her  Majesty's  Deputy  Com- 
missioner), the  late  Mr.  Joseph  Thomson,  Mr.  J.  L.  NicoU,  and  Mr.  A.  J. 
Swann,  it  lay  with  me  to  propose  a  name,  a  geographical  and  political  term 
for  the  mass  of  territory  thus  secured  as  a  dependency  of  the  British 
Empire. 

On  the  principle  that  it  is  disastrous  to  a  dog's  interest  to  give  him  a 
bad  name,  it  should  be  equally  true  that  much  is  gained  at  the  outset  of 
any  enterprise  by  bestowing  on  it  a  promising  title.  I  therefore  chose  that  of 
'•  British  Central  Africa  "  because  I  hoped  the  new  sphere  of  British  influence 
might  include  much  of  Central  Africa  where,  at  the  time  these  deeds  were 
done,  the  territories  of  Foreign  Powers  were  in  a  state  of  flux,  no  hard  and 
fast  boundaries  having  been  determined  ;  therefore  by  fair  means  Great  Britain's 
share  north  of  the  Zambezi  might  be  made  to  connect  her  Protectorate  on 
the  Upper  Nile  with  her  Empire  south  of  the  Zambezi. 


viii  PREFACE 

Treaties  indeed  were  obtained  which  advanced  British  Territory  from  the 
south  end  to  the  north  end  of  Lake  Tanganyika,  where  the  British  flag  was 
planted  at  the  request  of  the  natives  by  Mr.  Swann  in  the  spring  of  1890; 
but  the  said  Treaties  arrived  too  late  for  them  to  be  taken  into  consideration  at 
the  time  the  Anglo-German  Convention  was  drawn  up. 

Consequently  all  our  Government  could  do  was  to  secure  from  Germany  a 
right  of  way  across  the  intervening  strip  of  territory;  and  the  boundaries 
of  German  East  Africa  and  of  the  Congo  Free  State  were*^  henceforth  cpn- 
terminous  in  the  district  immediately  north  of  Tanganyika. 

Similarly  the  agents  of  the  King  of  the  Belgians  were  able  to  make  good 
their  claims  to  the  country  west  and  south-west  of  Tanganyika.  Therefore 
British  Central  Africa  did  not  ultimately  attain  the  geographical  limits  to  which 
I  had  originally  aspired,  and  which  would  have  amply  justified  its  title.  I 
write  this  in  (perhaps  needless)  apology  for  a  name,  which  after  all  is  a  fairly 
correct  designation  of  a  territory  in  the  South  Central  portions  of  the  continent 
separated  by  several  hundred  miles  from  the  East  or  West  Coasts  and 
stretching  up  to  the  equatorial  regions.  An  almost  exact  geographical  parallel 
to  the  British  Central  Africa  Protectorate  is  the  State  of  Paraguay^  in  South 
America;  which,  like  British  Central  Africa,  has  only  free  access  to  the  sea 
by  the  course  of  a  navigable  river  under  international  control. 

This  book,  however,  will  deal  only  with  that  Eastern  portion  of  British 
Central  Africa  which  has  more  or  less  come  within  my  personal  experience, 
that  is  to  say  it  is  principally  confined  to  the  regions  bordering  on  Lakes 
Tanganyika  and  Nyasa  and  the  River  Shire. 

Although  for  seven  years  I  have  been  connected  with  these  countries,  and 
have  been  gathering  notes  all  that  time,  it  is  not  to  be  supposed  for  a  moment 
that  the  results  of  my  workwhich  I  now  publish  deal  more  than  partially  with 
the  many  aspects  and  problems  of  this  small  section  of  Central  Africa.  The 
careful  reader  will  be  conscious  of  gaps  in  my  knowledge;  but  I  think  he 
will  not  find  his  time  wasted  by  vague  generalisations.  Such  information  as  I 
have  to  give  is  definite  and  practical.  During  my  present  leave  of  absence 
I  have  deemed  it  wise  to  gather  together  and  publish  the  information  I 
possess  while  an  opportunity  offered  and  before  such  information  is  useless 


PREFACE 


IX 


or  stale.  Two  years'  more  residence  might  have  enabled  me  to  answer  to 
my  satisfaction  many  questions  about  which  I  am  dubious,  or  of  which  I 
know  nothing.  There  will  be  room  for  specialists  to  take  up  many  sections 
of  my  book,  and  using,  perhaps,  this  arrangement  of  material  as  a  basis,  to 
correct  and  supplement  the  statements  I  have  made. 


MY  TABLE   IN   THE   WILDERNESS 


ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 


IT  gives  me  great  pleasure  to  acknowledge  the  help  I  have  received  from  many  friends 
and  acquaintances  in  the  production  of  this  book.  Sir  Thomas  Sanderson,  k.cb., 
Permanent  Under-Secretary  of  State  for  Foreign  Affairs,  has  revised  the  proofs  for  me ; 
and  Sir  Clement  Hill,  k.c.m.g.,  and  the  African  Department  of  the  Foreign  Office 
have  enabled  me  to  obtain  information  on  various  subjects ;  Mr.  Alfred  Sharpe, 
H.  M.  Deputy  Commissioner  and  Consul  for  British  Central  Africa,  has  given  me 
from  time  to  time  interesting  notes,  and  has  taken  a  number  of  photographs  for  the 
special  purposes  of  the  book ;  Mr.  J.  B.  Yule,  b.c.a.a.,  of  the  North  Nyasa  district, 
has  lent  me  many  of  his  photographs  and  has  supplied  me  with  information  on  native 
manners  and  customs;  Dr.  David  Kerr  Cross,  m.b.,  has  allowed  me  to  use  his 
valuable  notes  on  Anthropology  and  the  Diseases  prevalent  among  Europeans  and 
natives ;  Mr.  P.  L.  Sclater,  f.r.s..  Secretary  of  the  Zoological  Society,  has  rendered  me 
great  help  in  preparing  the  chapters  on  Zoology,  to  which  also  Mr.  Oldfield  Thomas, 
Dr.  A.  G.  Butler,  Mr.  W.  F.  Kirby  and  other  officials  of  the  British  Museum  of  Natural 
History,  and  Mr.  W.  E.  de  Winton,  f.z.s.,  have  contributed  information.  Mr.  Thiselton 
Dyer,  cm.g.,  Director  of  the  Royal  Gardens,  Kew,  on  this  occasion  (as  indeed  on  all 
others  when  I  have  applied  to  him)  has  given  his  assistance  with  promptness  and 
cordiality.  Mr.  Alexander  Whyte,  f.z.s.  (Principal  scientific  officer  in  British  Central 
Africa),  has  supplied  me  with  much  interesting  information  during  six  years ;  Mr.  J.  F. 
Cunningham,  Secretary  of  the  British  Central  Africa  Administration,  and  Mr.  Wm. 
Wheeler,  Chief  accountant  to  the  same,  have  obtained  for  me  photographs  and  informa- 
tion under  many  heads ;  the  Rev.  D.  C.  Ruifele-Scott,  b.d.  (of  the  Church  of  Scotland 
Mission,  Blantyre),  collected  five  vocabularies  for  me :  I  have  found  his  dictionary  of 
the  Ci-nyanja  (Chi-mananja)  language  a  useful  book  of  reference.  The  proprietors  of 
the  Graphic  have  been  very  kind  in  permitting  the  reproduction  in  these  pages  of  certain 
drawings  which  originally  appeared  in  one  or  other  of  their  journals.  Mr.  Fred  Moir, 
the  Secretary  to  the  African  Lakes  Company,  placed  his  photographs  at  my  disposal  and 
helped  me  in  various  ways.  The  Rev.  A.  CJ.  B.  Glossop,  m.a.,  Mr.  R.  Webb,  and  Miss 
Palmer,  of  the  Universities  Mission,  have  been  particularly  kind  in  obtaining  and 
lending  photographs.  I  have  also  derived  much  information  from  the  notes  and 
reports  of  the  late  Lieut.-Colonel  C.  A.  Edwards,  of  Commander  Percy  Cullen,  Captain 
W.  H.  Manning,  and  Messrs.  J.  E.  McMaster,  A.  J.  Swann,  R.  Codrington,  H.  A. 
Hillier,  J.  O.  Bowhill,  the  late  J.  L.  Nicoll  and  Gilbert  Stevenson,  H.  C.  McDonald, 


ACKNOWLEDGMENTS  xi 

J.  McClounie,  Donald  Malloch,  and  the  late  E.  G.  Alston,  of  the  British  Central  Africa 
Administration ;  while  I  have  also  to  acknowledge  the  loan  of  photographs  from  Messrs. 
E.  Harrhy^  the  late  Gilbert  Stevenson,  Commander  Percy  Cullen,  and  many  others. 

A  special  mention  should  be  made  of  the  valuable  Appendix  to  my  chapter  on 
"The  Botany  of  British  Central  Africa" — the  list  of  all  the  known  species  of  plants 
collected  there  from  1859  to  the  present  day.  This  list  has  been  prepared  for 
inclusion  in  my  book,  under  the  direction  of  Mr.  Thiselton  Dyer,  by  Mr.  I.  H. 
Burkill,  B.A.,  a  member  of  the  Scientific  Staff  at  Kew. 

It  will  be  seen  from  this  long  Ust  of  persons  to  whom  I  am  indebted  for  information 
that  my  book  represents  the  summing-up  of  others'  researches  as  well  as  of  my  own,  and 
that  if  praise  be  awarded  to  the  book,  as  to  the  seven  years'  work  of  which  it  is  the 
record,  that  praise  must  be  fairly  distributed  among  many  workers.  It  is  pleasant  to 
me  to  think  that  one  of  my  collaborators  in  this  work  is  a  native  of  British  Central 
Africa. 

H.  H.  JOHNSTON. 


ORTHOGRAPHY 

THE  orthography  of  native  words  and  names  used  throughout  this  book  (except 
in  the  Vocabularies)  is  that  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society.  All  the 
consonants  are  pronounced  as  in  English  (except  "n,"  which  stands  for  the  nasal 
sound  in  "ri«§i«^"),  and  the  vowels  as  in  Italian.  Where  the  spelling  of  an 
African  name  is  established  in  a  European  language  it  is  not  altered :  Examples — 
Congo  (Kongo),  Mo9ambique  (Msambiki),  Quelimane  (Keliman). 


TABLE    OF    CONTENTS 


Chapter    I. 
„        II. 

APPENDIX   I 

Chapter  III. 

„        IV. 
appendix  I 

Chapter  V. 

„       VI. 

APPENDIX   I 
»  2 

Chapter  VII. 
„       VIII. 

APPENDIX   I 

Chapter  IX. 

APPENDIX   I 
2 

3 
4 
5 
6 

7 
8 


n 
if 
n 


Chapter  X. 

APPENDIX   I 

Chapter  XI. 
appendix  i 

Index 


WHAT  THE   COUNTRY  LOOKS  LIKE 
PHYSICAL  GEOGRAPHY 

ANALYSIS  OF  NYASALAND  COAL   . 

HISTORY  .  .  .  . 

THE  FOUNDING  OF  THE   PROTECTORATE 

THE  pkESENT  METHOD  OF  ADMINISTRATION 

THE  SLAVE  TRADE    .... 
THE  EUROPEAN   SETTLERS 

BILIOUS  HiEMOGLOBINURIC  OR  "  BLACK-WATER "  FEVER 
HINTS  ON  OUTFIT  .... 

MISSIONARIES  .... 

BOTANY  ..... 

THE  USEFUL  FOREST  TREES  OF  BRITISH  CENTRAL  AFRICA 

A  LIST  OF  THE  KNOWN  PLANTS  OF  BRITISH  CENTRAL  AFRICA 

ZOOLOGY  ..... 

LIST  OF  KNOWN  MAMMALS  OF  BRITISH  CENTRAL  AFRICA 

REGULATIONS  FOR  PRESERVING  BIG  GAME 

LIST  OF  KNOWN  "BIRDS  .... 

LIST  OF  KNOWN  REPTILES,  BATRACHIANS,  AND  FISH 

LIST  OF  KNOWN  LAND  SHELLS,  MOLLUSCA,  ETC 

LIST  OF  KNOWN  SPIDERS,  CENTIPEDES,  ETC 

LIST  OF  KNOWN  ORTHOPTERA,  ETC. 

LIST  OF  KNOWN  LEPIDOPTERA      . 

LIST  OF  KNOWN  COLEOPTERA 

THE   NATIVES  OF  BRITISH   CENTRAL  AFRICA 

DISEASES  OF  THE  NATIVES  OF  BRITISH  CENTRAL  AFRICA 

LANGUAGES    ..... 

VOCABULARIES  .... 


PAGE 

I 

35 
51 

52 

So 
152 

155 

160 
184 
185 

189 

207 
227 
233 

285 
322 
326 

347 
361 
363 
365 
380 

381 
385 

389 
473 

479 
488 

533 


LIST   OF   ILLUSTRATIONS 


PAGE 

Frontispiece     . 
Vignette  on  Title-page 


TITLE 

An  Angoni  Warrior 
Portrait  of  the  Author . 


ix  '' My  table  in  the  wilderness"    .  .  .         . 

2  Borassus  Palms  on  the  Shire     .  ... 

3  Tropical  Vegetation  on  the  banks  of  the  Shire 

5  The  Leopard's  resting-place :  a  mountain  stream  in 
Central  Africa  .  .  ... 

7  A  Tree  Fern  .  .  ... 

8  "  The  Genius  of  the  Woods  "  (green  Turaco) 

9  A  Bamboo  Thicket      .  .  ... 

10  ''Jack  in  the  Beanstalks"  Country 

1 1  On  the  Plateau  .  .  ... 

12  The  Mlanje  Cedar  Forests         .  ... 

13  A  Mlanje  Mountain      .  .  ... 

14  A  Rock  Garden  on  Mlanje         .  ... 

15  Papyrus  Marsh  and  Saddle-billed  Storks 

22  The  **  Sultan's  Baraza"  .  .  .        . 

25  Mount  Kapemba,  Tanganyika  .  ... 

26  On  Tanganyika  .  .  ... 

32  Niamkolo  :  South  end  of  Tanganyika 

33  "  His  Last  Fight "       .  .  ... 

35  Forest  on  Mount  Cholo,  British  Central  Africa  . 

36  The  Mlanje  Range,  seen  from  Zomba  after  rainfall 

37  Native  Clearing  in  Forest  Country 

38  The  Shire  at  Chikwawa,  just  below  the  Murchison 

FaUs  .  .  .  ... 

39  Pinda  Mountain  and  Pinda  Marsh,  Lower  Shire. 

40  Part  of  the  Falls  of  the  Ruo  at  Zoa 

41  A  Mountain  Stream  in  Central  Africa 

42  First  View  of  Mlanje  Mountain  from  the  Lower  Shire 

43  On  the  Upper  Ruo      .  .  ... 

45  The  Mlanje  Range  from  the  Tuchila  Plain 

46  Chambi  Peak,  Mlanje 

47  The  Likubula  Gorge,  Mlanje 

48  On  Lake  Nyasa 

49  The  Lichenya  River,  Mlanje 

50  The  Shire  Highlands  . 
53  Portrait  of  a  Young  Bushman 

57  Governor's  House,  Tete 

58  The  Island  of  Mozambique,  seen  from  the  Mainland 


SOURCE 

Drawing  by  the  Author. 
Photograph  by  Miss  Kate  Pragnell, 

**  The  Lady  Photographers, "  Sloane 

Street,  S.W. 
Photograph  by  the  Author. 

»i  »»  »i 

Drawing  by  the  Author. 

Painting  by  the  Author. 
Drawing  by  the  Author. 
Painting  by  the  Author. 
Photograph  by  the  Author. 


Photograph  by  Mr.  Wm.  Wheeler. 
Photograph  by  the  Author. 
Drawing  by  the  Author. 

»»  »»  »i 

Photograph  by  the  Author. 
Photograph  by  Mr.  J.  B.  Yule. 
Photograph  by  Mr.  Alfred  Sharpe. 
Photograph  by  Mr.  Fred.  M.  Moir. 
Painting  by  the  Author. 
Photograph  by  the  Author. 
Drawing  by  the  Author. 
Photograph  by  the  Author. 

Drawing  by  the  Author. 

»»  »»  »> 

Photograph  by  the  Author. 

>i  »»  »» 

Drawing  by  the  Author. 

»»  »i  »» 

>>  ))  ff 

Photograph  by  the  Author. 
Drawing  by  the  Author. 
Photograph  by  Mr.  J.  B.  Yule. 
Photograph  by  the  Author. 

»»  »»  >> 

From  a  photograph. 

»»  »» 

Drawing  by  the  Author. 


XVI 


LIST   OF   ILLUSTRATIONS 


PAGE  TITLE 

6i  The  Point  on  the  South  Shore  of  Lake  Nyasa  whence 
the  Lake  was  first  seen  by  Dr.  Livingstone  and 
Sir  John  Kirk  in  1859               .                ... 

67  Mandala  House,  near  Blantyre. 

72  L.  Monteith  Fothering-ham         .                ... 

72  John  Lowe  Nicoll         .  .                ... 

73  Group  of  Wankonde  (North  Nyasa) 

74  John  W.  Moir  .                .                ... 

74  Frederick  Maitland  Moir  .                ... 

75  Mr.  Alfred  Sharpe  in  1890          .  ... 
79  On  the  Chinde,  Mouth  of  the  Zambezi     . 

83  Sergeant-Major  Ali  Kiongwe     .                ... 

85  Mr.  John  Buchanan    .                .                ... 

87  Masea  and  Mwitu,  two  of  Livingstone's  Makololo     . 

91  Outskirts  of  Kotakota  .                ... 

92  The  late  Tawakali  Sudi ;  Jumbe  of  Kotakota,  etc.     . 

93  North  Nyasa  Arabs  :  Bwana  'Omari  in  the  foreground 
95  Langenburg,  Capital  of  German  Nyasaland 

98  Sikh  Soldiers  of  the  Contingent  now  serving  in  British 

Central  Africa  .  .  ... 

99  H.M.S.  MosquitOy  a  Zambezi  Gunboat     . 

1 01  Fort  Johnston  in  1895                  .                ... 

103  Captain  Cecil  Montgomery  Maguire 

107  Mr.  William  Wheeler                  .                ... 

109  Mr.  Ntcoll's  House  at  Fort  Johnston 

no  Trees  planted  by  Mr.  Nicoll  at  Fort  Johnston  (two 
years'  growth)          ,                 .                 ... 

1 1 1  The  Nyasa  Gunboats  in  Nkata  Bay,  West  Nyasa 

112  Lake  Road,  Chiromo  .                .            .         . 

1 14  The  Katunga  Road  in  pre- Administration  Days 

115  Captain   Sclater's   Road   to   Katunga  in  process  of 

making  .  .  '      .  .         . 

1 16  Mr.  J.  F.  Cunningham  ,                ... 

1 18  Lieut. -Colonel  C.  A.  Edwards  .  ... 

119  A  Sikh  Soldier  in  the  B.C. A.  uniform 

1 19  A  Sikh  Soldier  in  fighting  kit     .  .            .         . 

1 20  A  Sikh  Soldier  in  fighting  kit    .  .            .         . 

120  Sikh  Soldier  in  undress  .                .            .         . 

121  Collector's  House  at  Fort  Lister 

122  Captain  W.  H.  Manning  .                ... 

1 23  The  Raphia  Palm  Marsh  behind  Chiwaura's 

1 25  On  the  Beach  at  Monkey  Bay  .  ... 

1 26  One  of  Makanjira's  Captured  Daus  at  Monkey  Bay  . 

1 27  The  Hoisting  of  the  Flag  at  Fort  Maguire 

1 29  The  Beach  at  Makanjira's         .  ... 

130  Three  of  Makanjira's  Captured  Daus  (Fort  Maguire) 

131  A  Rural  Post  Office,  B.C.A.       .  ... 

132  Watch  Tower  at  Fort  Johnston 

133  A  Sikh  Sergeant-Major  of  the  B.C.A.  Contingent 

134  Native  Soldiers,  B.C.A.  .                ... 

135  An  Atonga  Soldier      .  .                ... 

136  In  Zarafi's  Town          .  .                ... 


SOURCE 

Photograph  by  Mr.  E.  Harrhy. 
Photograph  by  Mr.  Fred.  M.  Moir. 
Photograph  by  Mr.  J.  B.  Yule. 

»»  >i  »i 

Photograph  by  the  Author. 
From  a  photograph. 

)t  »» 

Photograph  by  Mr.  Fred.  M.  Moir. 
Photograph  by  Mr.  J.  B.  Yule. 
Photograph  by  Commander  Percy 

Cullen. 
Photograph  by  Mr.  J.  Trotter. 
Photograph  by  the  Author. 


Photograph  by  Mr.  Wm.  Wheeler. 
From  a  photograph. 
Photograph  by  the  Author. 
From  a  photograph. 
Photograph  by  the  Author. 
Photograph  by  Mr.  J.  B.  Yule. 

Photograph  by  Mr.  J.  B.  Yule. 
Photograph  by  the  Author. 
Photograph  by  Mr.  R.  Webb. 
Photograph  by  the  Author. 

Photograph  by  the  Author. 
Photograph  by  Mr.  Wm.  Wheeler. 

f»  )f  »> 

Photograph    by    the    late    Gilbert 

Stevenson. 
Photograph  by  Mr.  E.  Harrhy. 

»»  II  II 

Photograph  by  Mr.  J.  B.  Yule. 
Photograph    by    the    late    Gilbert 

Stevenson. 
Photograph  by  Mr.  Wm.  Wheeler. 
Photograph  by  the  Author. 
Photograph  by  Mr.  J.  B.  Yule. 

i»  i»  II 

Photograph  by  the  Author. 

II  i»  II 

Photograph  by  Rev.  A.  G.  B.  Glossop. 
Photograph  by  Mr.  E.  Harrhy. 
Photograph  by  Rev.  A.  G.  B,  Glossop. 
Photograph  by  Mr.  Wm.  Wheeler. 


Photograph  by  the  Author. 


LIST   OF   ILLUSTRATIONS 


xvu 


(made  by  the  B.C.A. 


PAGE  TITLE 

137  Deep  Bay  Station 

138  Mlozi,  Chief  of  the  North  Nyasa  Arabs 

139  The  Transports  on  their  way  to  Karonga  arriving  in 

Likoma  Bay 

141  A  corner  of  Mlozi's  Stockade 

142  The  Nyasa-Tanganyika  Road 

Administration) 

143  The  Nyasa-Tanganyika  Road 

144  In  Fort  Hill 

145  The  Stockade,  Fort  Hill 

146  Mr.  Alfred  Sharpe  in  1896 

147  The  Zomba-Mlanje  Road 

148  A  Footbridge  across  the  Mlungusi  (Zomba) 

150  The  Gardens  of  the  Residency,  Zomba   . 

151  Mr.  Whyte  in  the  Gardens  at  Zomba 
153  Barracks  at  Fort  Johnston 

156  A  Swahili  Slave-trader 

157  Arab    and    Swahili    Slave-traders   captured  by   the 

B.C.A.  Forces 

158  A  **  Ruga-Ruga  "  (Mnyamwezi,  Slave-raider  employed 

by  the  Arabs) 

161  The  Consulate,  Blantyre 

162  A  CoflFee  Tree  in  bearing 

163  A  Planter's  temporary  House    . 
165  Morambala  Mount  from  the  River  Shire  . 
167  Sharrer's  Store  at  Katunga 
169  A**Capitao" 

172  In  Camp  after  a  day's  shooting 

174  Natives  making  Bricks 

'75  Cyprus  Avenue,  Blantyre 

176  Eucalyptus  Avenue 

177  A  Planter      .... 

178  An  Ivory  Caravan  arriving  at  Kotakota 

181  Ivory  at  Mandala  Store  (African  Lakes  Co.) 

182  Kahn  &  Co.'s  Trading  Store  at  Kotakota 
191  (r)  Bishop  Hornby  (formerly  of  Nyasaland).    (2)  The 

late  Bishop  Maples  of  Likoma 

194  Native  Church  at  Msumba,  Lake  Nyasa  (Universities 

Mission)    ..... 

199  Blantyre  Church  (Church  of  Scotland  Mission) 

207  Flowers  of  the  Gardenia  Tree  . 

208  Lissochilus  Orchids     .  .  .  . 

209  An  Angrcecum  Orchis .  .  . 

210  The  ^»s^//f a  or  "Tiger"  Orchis 

211  A  Red  Lily    .  .  ...... 

212  Oil  Palms  near  the  Songvve  River,  North  Nyasa 

212  Pl  Raphia  ^SiXm  .  .  .  . 

213  Raphia  Palm  Fruiting 

214  Borassus  Palms  .  .  .  . 

214  Wild  Date  Palms         .... 

215  A  Kced  SraXiQ  (Phragw,ites  communis)     . 

217  Plumes  and  Young  Shoot  of /%m§7//«V^j. 

218  Barbed  Seeds  of  Stipa  .  ... 


SOURCE 

Photograph  by  the  Author. 
Photograph  by  Mr.  Fred  Moir. 

Photograph  by  Miss  Palmer. 
Drawing  by  the  Author. 

Photograph  by  Mr.  J.  B.  Yule. 


Photograph  by  the  Author. 

•    >»  »»  »» 

Photograph  by  Mr.  Wm.  Wheeler. 

»>  >»  »» 

Photograph  by  the  Author. 

»>  »f  if 

Photograph  by  Mr.  Wm.  Wheeler. 


Photograph  by  Mr.  Fred  Moir. 

Photograph  by  Mr.  E.  Harrhy. 

Photograph  by  Mr.  Wm.  Wheeler. 

Photograph  by  Mr.  Alfred  Sharpe. 

Drawing  by  the  Author. 

From  a  photograph. 

Photograph    by    the    late    Gilbert 

Stevenson. 
Photograph  by  Mr.  E.  Harrhy. 
Photograph  by  Mr.  J.  B.  Yule. 
Photograph  by  Mr.  Fred  Moir. 
Photograph  by  the  Author. 
Photograph  by  Mr.  J.  F.  Cunningham. 
From  a  photograph. 
Photograph  by  Mr.  Fred  Moir. 
From  a  photograph. 

Photograph  by  Miss  Palmer. 

Photograph  by  Mr.  R.  Webb. 
Photograph  by  Mr.  Fred  Moir. 
Drawing  by  the  Author. 


Photograph  by  the  Author. 

>»  ft  >» 

Drawing  by  the  Author. 
Photograph  by  Mr.  Alfred  Sharpe. 
Photograph  by  the  Author. 
Drawing  by  the  Author, 


XVlll 


LIST   OF   ILLUSTRATIONS 


PAGE  TITLE 

2i8  Papyrus 

2i8  A  Large  Duckweed  (Pistia  stratiotes) 

219  An  Alhiszia  Tree 

220  The  Mucuna  Bean 

221  A  Baobab  Tree 

222  The  Euphorbia  of  the  Plains 

222  Candelabra  Euphorbias 

223  A  Landolphia  Liana    . 

224  Sansevieria  Fibre  Plant 

225  Growth   of  Branches ;   Foliage ;  and   Cones  of  the 

Mlanje  Cedar  (  Widdringtonia  wkytet) , 

226  Young  Mlanje  Cedar  . 
290  A  Spotted  Hyena 
293  The  Central  African  Zebra 
297  Head  of  a  Hippopotamus 
299  A  Wart  Hog 

302  Head  of  a  Buffalo 

303  Horns  of  Congo  Buffalo 

304  Livingstone's  Eland     . 

305  Horns  of  Livingstone's  Eland 

306  A  Male  Bushbuck 

307  Head  of  a  Male  Kudu 

310  Diagram  showing  origin  and  relationships  of  modern 

groups  of  Homed  Ruminants 

311  A  Klipspringer 

312  A  Male  Reedbuck 

312  A  Male  Reedbuck's  Head 

313  A  Male  Waterbuck 

314  A  Female  Waterbuck  . 

315  The  Sable  Antelope     . 

318  A  Roan  Antelope 

319  Johnston's  Pallah 

320  The  Nyasaland  Gnu  (Connochates  taurinus  johnstont) 
329  The  Elephant  Marsh 
335  The  Syndactylous  Foot 

338  Spur- winged  Geese     . 

339  Crowned  Cranes 
343  A  Pelican  of  Tanganyika 

343  A  Stilt  Plover 

344  Head  and  foot  of  Fruit-pigeon 

345  The  Warlike  Crested  Eagle  (SpiacBtus  bellicosus) 

346  A  Small  Falcon  (Falco  minor) 
357  Nyasa  Crocodiles 

360  Chromis   squamipennis ;   Hemichromis  Hvingsh 

Fish  of  Lake  Nyasa 

361  Engraulicypris  pinguis 

371  A  Termite  Ant-hill 

372  A  Stick  Insect 

373  A  Locustid  Insect 
378  The  Tsetse  Fly  . 
388  An  Angoni  Man  from  the  West  Nyasa  district 

390  A  Mnyanja   .... 

391  A  Yao  Man  .... 


SOURCE 

Drawing  by  the  Author. 

})  f)  ft 

Photograph  by  Mr.  Wm.  Wheeler. 
Drawing  by  the  Author. 
Photograph  by  Mr.  J.  B.  Yule. 

»i  »»  >» 

Drawing  by  the  Author. 

»»  »»  i» 

Photograph  by  Mr.  Foulkes. 

Drawing  by  the  Author. 

»i  II  »» 

Photograph  by  the  Author. 
Drawing  by  the  Author. 
From  a  photograph. 
Drawing  by  the  Author. 


Engraving  lent  by   the   Zoological 

Society. 
Drawing  by  the  Author. 


Photograph  by  Mr.  Alfred  Sharpe. 
Drawing  by  the  Author. 


Photograph  by  the  Author. 
Drawing  by  the  Author. 


Zoological  Society's  Proceedings. 

»i  ♦»  »» 

Photograph  by  Miss  Palmer. 
Drawing  by  the  Author. 


Photograph  by  Mr.  Wm.  Wheeler. 


LIST   OF   ILLUSTRATIONS 


XIX 


PAGE  TITLE 

393  An  Arab  of  Tanganyika  (Rumaliza) 

395-  A  Mtonga  Man  (to  show  profile) 

397  A  Yao  of  the  Upper  Shire 

398  An  Angoni  from  Mombera's  country 

399  Boy  with  well-developed  breasts 

400  A  Young  Mother  (showing  pendent  breasts) 

401  Wankonde  Men 
403  A  Munkonde  from  North  Nyasa 
405  Sketch  of  Muscular  Development  in  a  Yao 
407  A  Yao  Woman 
411  Young  Munkonde  Girl 
414  A  Mtonga  Man 
416  **  A  Good  Mother  "  (Sketch  of  a  Mnyanja  woman) 

420  A  Yao  of  Zomba 

421  A  "Ruga-Ruga" 

423  Specimens  of  Tatooing ;  Comb  ;  Plugs  for  insertion 

in  ear,  lips,  nose,  etc. 

424  Example  of  **  Pelele"  in  upper  lip 

424  Another  example  of  the  "  Pelele  " 

425  Wooden  Hoe  ;  and  wooden  Hammer  for  beating  out 

bark  cloth 

427  North  Nyasa  Native  smoking  hemp 

428  Banana  Grove  (Mlanje) 
431  Wankonde  Cattle 
433  The  Domestic  Goat  of -South  and  Central  Africa 

453  A  typical  Native  House  in  South  Nyasaland 

454  A  Nkonde  House 
457  Natives  making  a  prone  tree  trunk  into  a  canoe 

457  A  River  Pilot 

458  Weaving  in  Angoniland 

459  Weaving  on  the  Nyasa-Tanganyika  Plateau 

460  Women  making  Pots  . 

461  Pipes  for  hemp  and  tobacco 

462  Central  African  Weapons,  etc.  . 

464  African  Dancer  and  Drum  Players 

465  A   Mu-lungu   of  South   Tanganyika  blowing 

trumpet      .... 

467  A  **  Sansi  "   . 

470  Angoni  Warriors 

470  Head  stuck  on  a  pole  after  a  native  war  . 

472  "Young  Africa" 


SOURCE 

Photograph  by  Mr.  Fred  Moir. 
Drawing  by  the  Author. 


Photograph  by  Mr.  J.  B.  Yule. 
Drawing  by  the  Author. 
Photograph  by  the  Author. 
Photograph  by  Mr.  Alfred  Sharpe. 
Drawing  by  the  Author. 
Photograph  by  Mr.  Wm.  Wheeler. 
Photograph  by  Mr.  J.  B.  Yule. 
Drawing  by  the  Author. 


ivory 


480 


Map  showing  the  lines  of  migration  of  the  Bantu 
tribes  in  their  invasion  of  Southern  Africa 


Photograph  by  Mr.  Wm.  Wheeler. 


Drawing  by  the  Author. 

»i  »>  »» 

Photograph  by  the  Author. 
Photograph  by  Mr.  Fred  Moir. 
Drawing  by  the  Author. 
Photograph  by  the  Author.. 
Photograph  by  Mr.  Fred  Moir. 
Photograph  l>y  Mr.  Yule. 
Photograph  by  Mr.  R.  Webb. 
Photograph  by  Mr.  Fred  Moir. 

>>  »»  it 

Photograph  by  Mr.  Yule. 
Drawing  by  the  Author. 

tt  a  t» 

From  a  photograph. 

Drawing  by  the  Author  from  a 

photograph  by  Mr.  Yule. 
Drawing  by  the  Author. 
Photograph  by  Mr.  J.  F.Cunningham. 
Drawing  by  the  Author. 
Photograph    by    the    late    Gilbert 

Stevenson. 

Drawing  by  the  Author. 


MAPS 

1.  Map  of  British  Central  Africa,  showing  approximate  rainfall,  naviga 

bility  of  rivers,  etc. 

2.    showing  Orographical  features 

3-   showing  Administrative  divisions 

4.  Map  of  the  Shire  Highlands 

5.  Map  of  British   Central   Africa,  showing  density  of  population  and 

aistribution  of  native  tribes 

6.   showing  Mission  Stations  and  Foreign  Settlers  and  Settlements 


To  face 

page 
»» 

41 
46 

»» 
d 
•             »» 

»> 

154 
188 

BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


CHAPTER    I. 
WHAT   THE    COUNTRY    LOOKS    LIKE 

BEFORE  I  begin  to  discourse  on  the  dull  facts  of  history  and  geography 
let  me  try  to  give  my  reader  some  idea  of  what  the  country  looks  like  by 
describing  certain  set  scenes  and  panoramas.  Perhaps  from  these  he  may 
<lerive  a  clearer  impression  of  the  general  appearance  and  the  many  diverse 
aspects  of  British  Central  Africa. 

A  steadily  flowing  river.  In  the  middle  of  the  stream  an  islet  of  very  green 
grass,  so  lush  and  so  thick  that  there  are  no  bright  lights  or  sharp  shadows — 
simply  a  great  splodge  of  rich  green  in  the  middle  of  the  shining  water  which 
reflects  principally  the  whitish-blue  of  the  sky ;  though  this  general  tint  becomes 
opaline  and  lovely  as  mother-of-pearl,  owing  to  the  swirling  of  the  current  and 
the  red-gold  colour  of  the  concealed  sand-banks  which  in  shallow  places 
permeates  the  reflections.  Near  to  the  right  side  of  the  grass  islet  separated 
only  by  a  narrow  mauve-tinted  band  of  water  is  a  sand-bank  that  has  been 
uncovered,  and  on  this  stands  a  flock  of  perhaps  three  dozen  small  white  egrets 
-closely  packed,  momentarily  immoveable,  and  all  stiffly  regardant  of  the 
approaching  steamer,  each  bird  with  a  general  similarity  of  outline  almost 
Egyptian  in  its  monotonous  repetition. 

The  steamer  approaches  a  little  nearer,  and  the  birds  rise  from  the  sand-bank 
with  a  loose  flapping  flight  and  strew  themselves  over  the  landscape  like  a 
shower  of  large  white  petals.  On  the  left  bank  of  the  river  looking  down 
stream  is  a  grove  of  borassus  palms  rising  above  the  waterside  fringe  of  white 
flowered  reeds  and  apple-green  mopheads  of  papyrus.  The  trunks  of  the 
taller  palms  are  smooth  and  whitish,  but  those  of  younger  growth  nearer  to  the 
ground  are  still  girt  about  by  a  fierce  spiky  hedge  of  dead  black-stemmed 
fronds.  The  crowns  of  the  palm  trees  are  symmetrical  and  fan-shaped  in 
general  outline,  while  each  individual  frond  has  in  its  inner  side  a  horse-shoe 
curve.  The  colour  of  the  fronds  is  a  deep  bluish-green  singularly  effective 
in  contrast  with  the  grey-white  column  they  surmount.  The  fruit  of  the  palms, 
when  they  can  be  descried,  are  like  huge  yellow-green  apples  thickly  clustered 
on  pendent  racemes  protruding  from  the  centre  round  which  the  fronds  radiate. 


2  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

Behind  the  palm  forest  is  a  long  line  of  blue  mountain  so  far  away  that  it  is  just 
a  faint  blue  silhouette  against  the  paler  blue  sky.  The  afternoon  is  well  advanced^ 
and  in  the  eastern  sky,  which  is  a  warm  pinkish  blue,  the  full  moon  has  already 
risen  and  hangs  there  a  yellow-white  shield  with  no  radiance.  On  the  opposite 
bank  of  the  river  to  the  palm  trees  is  a  clump  of  tropical  forest  of  the  richest 
green  with  purple  shadows,  lovely  and  seductive  in  its  warm  tints  under  the 
rays  of  the  late  afternoon  sun.  Here  are  large  albizzia  trees.*  Over  the  water- 
side hang  thick  bushes  overgrown  with  such  a  drapery  of  convolvulus  creepers 


BORASSUS   PALMS  ON   THE  SHIRE 


that  the  foliage  of  the  bush  is  almost  hidden.  This  green  lacework  is  beauti- 
fully lit  up  by  large  mauve  flowers.  Above  the  bushes  rise  the  heads  of  the 
wild  date  palm,  and  amid  the  fronds  of  this  wild  date  here  and  there  a  cluster 
of  its  small  orange  fruit  peeps  out.  These  palms  rise  over  masses  of  foliage, 
and  occasionally  top  the  higher  trees,  growing  within  their  canopy  in  almost 
parasitic  fashion.  This  cluster  of  tropical  vegetation  will  be  here  and  there 
scooped  out  into  fairy  bowers  by  the  irregularities  of  the  bank.  Sometimes  the 
trees  will  overhang  the  stream  where  the  bank  has  been  washed  away.  Tiny 
kingfishers  of  purple-blue  and  chestnut-orange  flit  through  the  dark  network  of 
gnarled  trunks,  and  deep  in  this  recess  of  shade  small  night-herons  and  bitterns 
stand  bolt  upright,  so  confident  in  their  assumed  invisibility  against  a  back- 

'  A  genus  related  to  the  acacia  with  the  thickest  foliage  of  pinnate  leaves  looking  at  a  distance  like 
green  velvet. 


WHAT   THE   COUNTRY    LOOKS    LIKE  3 

ground  of  brown  and  grey  that  they  do  not  move  even  when  the  steamer  passes 
so  close  by  them  as  to  brush  against  the  tangle  of  convolvulus  and  knock  down 
sycomore  figs  from  the  glossy-leaved,  many-rooted  fig  trees. 

It  is  a  backwater  on  the  Shire  river,  or  perhaps  not  so  much  a  backwater 
as  a  sluggish  branch  of  the  stream  which  the  main  current  has  deserted  and  left 
hidden  away  between  bosky  islands  and  the  high  wooded  bank.  The  flow 
of  the  current  is  not  discernible,  and  the  reflections  are  glassy  and  mirror-like 
in  their  exactitude,  except  that  the  surface  of  the  water  in  the  foreground  is 
strewn  with  oval  lotus  leaves  looking  in  shape  and  even  colour  exactly  like  those 
copper  ashtrays  or  cardtrays  made  in  Indian  ware  with  slightly  turned -up 
crinkled  edges.  The  scene  is  much  framed  in  with  overarching  foliage  and 
branches  from  island  and   opposite  hank.      On  this   shore   of  the   mainland 


TROPICAL  VEGETATION  ON  THE   BANKS  OF  THE  SHIRE 

there  are  tall  acacia  trees  with  smooth  pale-green  trunks  and  whitish-green 
branches,  and  a  feathery  light-green  foliage  spangled  with  hanging  clumps 
of  tiny  golden-stamened,  petalless  flowers  which  exhale  the  most  penetrating, 
absolute,  and  honeyed  of  all  flower  scents,  a  scent  so  strong  that  it 
may  be  wafted  on  a  still,  hot  day  across  a  mile  of  water.  In  the  middle 
distance  is  a  fine  group  of  trees,  elm-like  in  shape,  growing  on  the  river  bank 
above  the  flood  limit.  In  the  farthest  distance  a  few  sparse-foliaged  acacias 
stand  out  against  the  grey-blue  sky  above  a  high  fence  of  reeds.  In  the 
nearer  distance  one  clump  of  spear-like  reeds  rises  from  the  waterlilies  and 
shows  some  fine  white  flowering  plumes  against  the  dark  background  of  the 
forest  clump.  In  the  foreground  is  a  huge  snag,  the  relic  of  a  fine  forest 
tree  that  has  been  washed  down  in  the  flood  and  stranded  in  the  mud  of 
this  backwater.  On  its  branches  are  perched  darters  with  sheeny  plumaged 
bodies  of  greenish-black  and  chestnut-coloured  necks  ending  in  a  head  and 
spear-like  beak,  so  slim  that  it  seems  a  mere  termination  of  the  angular 
weapon  of  the  neck.  Amongst  the  waterlily  leaves  rise  the  beautiful  blue-pink 
flowers  that  are  styled  the  lotus. 


4  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

We  are  going  to  climb  a  mountain.  First  there  are  the  low  foothills  to 
surmount.  The  soil  is  red  and  hard  ;  the  grass  is  scattered  and  in  yellow  wisps, 
and  the  many  wild  flowers  are  drooping,  for  it  is  the  end  of  the  dry  season. 
The  trees  are  in  foliage,  though  the  rains  have  not  yet  fallen,  and  the  young 
leaves  at  this  stage  are  seldom  green,  but  the  most  beautiful  shades  of  carmine 
pink,  of  pinkish  yellow,  of  greenish  mauve,  and  even  inky  purple.  Here  and 
there  sprays  of  foliage  are  in  a  more  advanced  development,  and  are  green  with 
a  bluish  bloom,  or  of  the  brightest  emerald.  But  the  height  of  the  trees  is  not 
great,  and  their  leaves,  though  large,  are  scattered  in  a  tufty  growth  that  yields 
but  a  feeble  patchwork  of  shade  from  the  hot  sun  ;  the  branches  are  coarse, 
and  thick,  and  seldom  straight,  they  look  just  like  the  branches  of  trees  drawn 
from  imagination  by  amateur  water-colour  artists.  In  many  cases  the  bark 
is  still  black  and  sooty  with  the  scorching  of  the  recent  bush  fires.  The  general 
impression  of  all  this  vegetation,  though  one  is  forced  to  admire  the  individual 
tints  of  the  newly-opened  leaves,  is  disappointing.  It  is  scrubby.  The  land- 
scape has  not  the  dignity  of  a  blasted  heath,  or  the  simplicity  of  a  sandy 
desert;  its  succession  of  undulations  of  low  scattered  forest  of  such  a  harlequin 
variation  of  tints  is  such  as  to  produce  no  general  effect  of  definite  form  and 
settled  colour  on  the  eye.  But  this  is  a  good  game  country.  As  you  plod 
along  the  hard  red  path,  baked  almost  into  brick  by  the  blazing  sun  acting  on 
the  red  mud  of  the  rainy  season,  you  will  suddenly  catch  sight  of  a  splendid 
sable  antelope  with  ringed  horns,  almost  in  a  half  oval,  a  black  and  white  face, 
a  glossy  black  body,  white^  stomach,  fringed  and  tufted  tail,  and  heavy  black 
mane ;  or,  it  may  be,  his  beautiful  female  of  almost  equal  bulk,  but  with 
smaller  horns,  and  with  all  the  markings  and  coloration  chestnut  and  white 
instead  of  white  and  black.  Unless  you  are  very  quick  with  your  rifle,  the 
beast  will  soon  be  hid  and  almost  undiscoverable  amongst  the  low  trees  and 
bushes. 

The  path  is  broken  here  and  there  by  seams  of  granite.  Every  now  and 
then  there  is  a  regular  scramble  over  wayworn  rocks;  granite  boulders  are  more 
and  more  interspersed  amongst  the  red  clay.  Between  the  boulders  grow 
aloes  with  fleshy  leaves  of  green,  spotted  with  red,  and  long  flower  spikes 
of  crimson  which  end  in  coral -coloured  flower  buds — buds  which  open 
grudgingly  at  the  tip;  the  edges  of  the  sprawling  aloe  leaves  are  dentelated, 
and  in  their  tendency  to  redness  sometimes  all  green  is  merged  in  a  deep 
vinous  tint. 

Now  there  is  less  scrub,  and  the  trees  as  we  ascend  become  larger  and  more 
inclined  to  stand  in  clumps;  their  foliage  is  thicker.  We  are  approaching  a 
stream,  and  its  course  is  marked  by  a  forest  of  a  different  type,  fig  trees  of 
various  species,  tall  parinariums  (a  tree  which  bears  a  purple  plum),  huge- 
leaved  gomphias,  and  velvet-foliaged  albizzias.  On  either  side  of  the  stream, 
also,  there  is  a  jungle  of  bamboos,  and  the  path  descends  from  out  of  the  weary- 
glare  of  the  white  sunlight  on  the  red  clay  into  a  cool,  moist,  green  tunnel 
through  the  numberless  spear-heads  of  bamboo  leaves.  There  are  many  ferns 
on  either  side  of  the  stream  bank  and  beautiful  carmine  lilies^  are  growing 
by  the  water*s  edge,  but  as  the  rains  are  still  withheld  there  is  but  a  thin  film  of 
water  slipping  down  over  the  grey  rocks  and  brown  pebbles,  and  the  stream 
may  be  easily  crossed  from  stepping  stone  to  stepping  stone.  Then  a  clamber 
up  the  opposite  bank  and  through  the  bamboo  out  once  more  into  the  scorching 
sunshine,  and  so  on  and  on    along  a  winding  path  through  a  native  village 

'  See  illustration,  page  211. 


THE   leopard's   RESTING-PLACE:     A   MOUNTAIN    STREAM    IN    CENTRAL  AFRICA 


WHAT   THE   COUNTRY   LOOKS    LIKE 


7 


with  its  untidy  haycocks  of  huts,  its  clumps  of  bananas,  plantations  of  sweet 
potatoes  and  tobacco,  and  adjoining  stubble  fields  where  gaunt  isolated  stalks 
of  sorghum  still  linger.  The  blue  mountain  wall  towards  which  we  are  aiming 
rises  higher  into  the  sky,  and  its  blue  vagueness  becomes  resolvable  into  a  detail 
of  purple  and  yellow  grey.  But  though  the  sun  is  hotter  than  ever  as  it 
approaches  the  zenith  our  continual  ascent  brings  us  to  a  region  that  enjoys 
more  benign  conditions  of  nioisture  and  coolness  at  night  time.  The  young 
green  grass  is  more  advanced  than  down  below,  the  herbage  is  so  thick  that  the 
red  soil  is  almost  hidden.  The  wild  flowers  commence  to  be  beautiful.  There 
are  innumerable  ground  orchids  in  various 
shades  of  mauve  or  yellow,  or  with  strange 
green  blossoms,  or  flowers  of  richest  orange. 
A  beautiful  white  clematis  grows  from  an 
upright  stalk,  and  here  and  there  are 
bushes  of  a  kind  of  mallow,  which  bears 
large  azalea -like  clusters  of  the  most 
perfect  blush  pink.  Higher  up  still  there 
are  more  and  more  flowers  in  many  shades 
of  blue  and  mauve  and  yellow.  There  is 
a  small  kind  of  sunflower  that  is  a  deep 
maroon  crimson,  and  another  coreopsis 
more  like  the  cultivated  sunflower  with 
flaming  yellow  petals.  In  moist  places — 
and  the  path  is  now  constantly  crossing 
small  brooks  —  grows  the  dissotis,  with 
large  flowers  of  deep  red -mauve.  The 
path  curves  and  twists  and  runs  up  above 
heights  and  then  down  into  deep  ravines, 
and  still  the  flowers  grow  thicker  and 
thicker  and  more  lovely,  till  in  the  ecstasy 
of  a  colour  dream,  all  remembrance  of  the 
sun's  heat,  of  your  great  fatigue  and  your 
sweat -drenched  clammy  garments  is  for- 
gotten. On  the  hill-sides  there  are  frequent 
clumps  of  wild  date  palms,  some  of  which 
rise  to  a  great  height  with  their  slender 
stems  often  bowed  or  curved  and  seldom 

perpendicular.  Then  you  come  to  your  first  tree-fern,  or  if  you  are  a  botanist 
you  are  delighted  with  a  rare  cycad  growing  majestically  alone  and  looking 
very  much  as  though  it  were  an  admirable  piece  of  artificial  foliage  executed  in 
green  bronze.  Still  ascending,  with  a  pause  here  and  a  rest  there  in  the 
absolute  shade  of  the  great  forest  trees,  tree-ferns  become  so  abundant  at 
last  as  to  make  fairy  forests  of  themselves,  excluding  other  arborescence. 
Then  they  give  way  again  to  densely- packed  thick -foliaged  forest  trees  of 
low  growth  through  which  a  path  winds  over  many  a  bole  and  through 
many  a  bamboo  bower  in  deep  green  gloom.  Through  this  gloom  flit  the 
crimson  -  winged  turacos,  the  lovely  genii  of  the  African  forest  —  birds  of 
purple-blue,  bluish-green  and  grass-green  silky  plumage  with  a  white-tipped 
crest,  red  parrot- like  beaks,  and  bare  red  cheeks,  but  always,  no  matter  what 
their  species,  with  the  broad,  rounded  pinion  feathers  of  the  wing  the  most 
perfect  scarlet-crimson  ever  seen   in  nature.     The  loud   parrot  cries  of  these 


A  TREE-FERN 


8 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


birds  (not  unmelodious)  echo  and  re-echo  through  the  forest  glades  as  the>r 
call  to  one  another;  and  here  is  a  crimson  flash,  and  there  is  a  long  crimson 
streak  drawn  across  the  green  background  as  they  fly  backwards  and  forwards 
before  the  delighted  intruder. 

Runnels  of  water  will  at  times  trickle  through  the  black  leaf  mould  of  the 
scarcely  discernible  path,  and  you  will  come  to  many  a  fairy  glen  where  the 
dark,  clear,  cold  water  lies  in  deep  pools  amongst  the  ferns. 


'*THK  GENIUS  OF  THE  WOODS "  (GREEN  TURACO) 

The  forest  for  a  time  will  give  place  to  a  bamboo  thicket,  the  bamboos 
perhaps  of  a  different  species  to  those  lower  down,  with  smaller  and  finer  leaves 
of  a  deeper  green  ;  nothing  more  beautiful  than  these  bamboo  glades  is  to 
be  seen  in  the  way  of  vegetation.  It  is  difficult  to  express  in  words  the 
effect  which  is  produced  by  thousands  of  narrow,  pointed  leaves  of  shiny  surface 
shaped  like  small  spear  blades — a  wall  of  green  facets — moving  at  times  with 
a  faint  tremor  which  sends  a  shimmering  of  green  around  you,  accompanied  by 
the  tiniest  whispering  sound.  No  transformation  scene  ever  shown  on  the  stage 
was  so  beautiful  as  a  bamboo  glade  on  the  high  mountain  side  with,  invariably,, 
water  falling  down  the  centre  of  the  picture  in  tiny  cascades  and  the  soft  ground 
carpeted  with  a  deposit  of  cast  leaves  like  thin  spear  blades  of  pale  gold. 


WHAT   THE   COUNTRY   LOOKS   LIKE  9 

Beyond  the  bamboos  the  path  becomes  terrible.  You  emerge  from  the 
gloom  of  this  first  forest  belt  on  to  bare  rock  and  obtain  glorious  views  over  the 
flower-braided  hill-slopes  below,  over  the  band  of  dark  green  velvet  forest,  and 
beyond  into  plains  that  are  purple-blue  with  a  diamond  flash  of  water  here  and 
there  till  the  horizon  is  closed  up  with  the  palest  silhouettes  of  other 
mountains. 

The  path  is  now  scarcely  apparent.  It  is  a  hazardous  progress  up  a  steep 
face  of  smooth  polished  rock  from  grass  clump  to  grass  clump.  Here  and  there 
on  ledges  of  the  rock  where  a  little  vegetable  soil  may  have  collected  tussocks 
of  grass  are  growing,  and  these  afibrd  a  precarious  foothold  ;  nevertheless 
though  there  is  no  good  path  it  is  obvious'  that  men  often  pass  this  way  up 
and  down  the  mountains  since  the  tussocks  of  grass  that  are  regularly  trodden 


A    BAMBOO  THICKET 


on  are  grey  and  dead  in  comparison  to  those  untouched  by  the  human  foot, 
which  remain  green.  Here  the  difficulty  of  your  ascent  will  be  lightened  by 
the  joy  you  must  feel  in  the  lobelias,  if  you  have  any  sense  of  colour.  In  the 
crevices  of  these  glabrous-looking  mountain  ribs  will  grow  bunches  of  lobelias 
extravagant  in  their  thousands  of  blue  flowerets. 

At  last  the  ascent  of  this  mountain  wall  is  safely  accomplished,  and  you 
fling  yourself  panting  on  short  wiry  turf  growing  in  clumps  and  know  that  you 
have  reached  the  limits  of  " J ack-in-the- Beanstalk's"  country. 

All  the  great  mountains  of  South  Central  Africa  seem  to  be  isolated 
fragments  of  an  older  plateau,  and  most  of  them  present  more  or  less  precipitous 
wall-like  sides  rising  above  the  foot  hills,  which  latter  are  created  by  land  slides 
and  dibriSy  or  represent  smaller  remains  of  the  plateau  that  in  course  of  time 
have  been  more  worn  away  than  the  larger  blocks  constituting  the  big 
mountains  or  the  long  mountain  ranges.  These  wall-like  sides  are  naturally 
difficult  of  ascent ;  but  when  one  has  clambered  up  over  the  edge,  and  on  to 


lO 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


the  more  level  surface  of  the  upraised  tableland,  it  is  a  veritable  "  Jack-in-the 
Beanstalk's"  country,  quite  different  in  aspect  to  the  tropical  plains  below. 
Turning  your  eyes  away,  however,  from  the  blue  gulf  which  yawns  beneath  the 
precipitous  ascent  of  several  thousand  feet — which  blue  gulf  after  analysis  by 
the  eye  resolves  itself  into  the  faint  map  of  many  leagues  of  surrounding 
countries — you  find  that  the  plateau  on  which  you  stand  is  a  little  world  in 
itself.  The  general  surface  is  rolling  grass  land  and  beautifully-shaped  downs, 
with  little  streams  and  little  lakes,  and  little  forests ;  and  again  from  out  of  this 
tableland  little  mountains  of  one  to  three  thousand  feet,  chiefly  of  granite,  rise 
up  into  the  clouds  and  in  their  austere  rockiness  contrast  charmingly  with  the 
lawns  of  short  grass,  the  flowery  vales,  and  the  rich  woodlands  at  their  base. 
Altogether  the  scenery  is  pretty  rather  than  grand,  and  if  you  could  forget  the 
ascent  you  have  made  and  your  geographical  position,  you    might   imagine 


*'JACK-IN.THE-BEANSTALK*S'*  COUNTRY 

yourself  in  Wales,  and  believe  that  country  of  this  sort  stretched  inimitably 
before  you  for  miles  and  miles,  were  it  not  that  upon  walking  a  few  steps 
in  another  direction  you  suddenly  stop  shuddering  on  the  sharp  edge  of  an 
awful  gulf— a  gulf  which  on  a  misty  day  might  be  the  end  and  edge  of  the 
world. 

It  is  a  "  Jack-in-the-Beanstalk"  country.  A  little  section  of  land  upraised 
and  quite  apart  from  the  rest  of  Tropical  Africa  with  a  climate  and  flora  of  its 
own,  and  as  a  rule  without  indigenous  human  inhabitants.  The  fauna  of  these 
altitudes  has  usually  peculiar  features  though  most  of  the  mammals  differ  but 
little  from  those  of  the  plains.  Antelopes,  buffalos,  and  even  elephants  will 
scramble  to  these  heights,  if  they  be  in  any  way  accessible,  for  the  sake  of  the 
sweet  herbage ;  therefore  in  your  ramblings  over  these  plateaux  you  may  catch 
sight  of  big  game,  and  even  meet  in  its  train  the  lion  and  leopard.  The  woods 
of  Cape-oak  and  other  evergreens — the  branches  of  which  are  hung  with  long 
sprays  of  greenish-white  lichen,  "the  old  man's  beard  "^ — are  resonant  with  the 

^  Ustteay  the  *  *  orchilla ''  weed  of  commerce. 


WHAT   THE    COUNTRY    LOOKS    LIKE 


1 1 


cries  of  turacos,  possibly  a  species  slightly  differing  from  that  found  in  the 
warmer  climate  of  the  plains  or  hill-sides.  Most  of  the  other  birds  will  be 
allied  to  South  African,  Abyssinian  or  even  European  species — large  purple 
pigeons  with  yellow  beaks  or  pretty  doves  with  roseate  tinge  and  white  heads ; 
orioles  of  green  and  yellow  and  grey;  chats,  buntings,  fly-catchers,  plump 
speckled  francolin  and  tiny  harlequin-quails  ;  few,  if  any  birds  of  prey,  but 
many  great-billed  black  and  white  ravens  and  an  occasional  black  crow.  The 
wild  flowers  remind  one  touchingly  of  home.  There  are  violets,  there  is  a  rare 
primula,  there  are  buttercups,  forget-me-nots,  St.  John's  wort,  anemones,  vivid 
blue  hound's-tongue  and  heather.  Unfamiliar,  however,  are  the  lovely  ground 
orchids,  the  strange  proteas  and  the  "  everlasting  "  flowers.  Also  there  are  strag- 
gling arborescent  heaths,  almost  like  small  conifers  in  appearance,  though  other 
forms  more  closely  resemble  our  own  heather.     Near  the  edges  of  the  plateau 


ON   THE   PLATEAU 


amongst  the  rocks  grows  a  big  kind  of  tree-lily  with  a  gouty,  pachydermatous, 
branching  stem  and  tufts  of  grass-like  leaves.  If  it  be,  as  I  imagine,  the  early 
spring  when  you  are  ascending  the  mountain,  these  otherwise  ugly  shrubs  will 
be  covered  with  white  lily-like  blossoms. 

The  air  of  these  lofty  plateaux  is  cool  and  bracing  and  the  sunshine  harmless 
in  the  day-time.  When  the  weather  is  fine  the  sky  is  a  lovely  pale-blue. 
Daylight  under  these  conditions  is  one  long  inexhaustible  joy  of  living. 
F*atigue  is  not  felt ;  the  sun's  heat  is  pleasantly  warm  ;  a  moderate  thirst  can 
be  delightfully  quenched  in  the  innumerable  ice-cold  brooks ;  but  when  the 
sun  is  set — set  amid  indescribable  splendour  in  what  appears  to  be  the  middle 
of  the  sky,  so  high  is  the  horizon — nature  wears  a  different  even  an  alarming 
aspect :  unless  you  have  a  cheerful  log-hut  to  enter  or  a  well-pitched  comfortable 
tent  (with  a  roaring  fire  burning  at  a  safe  distance  from  the  tent  porch) 
you  will  feel  singularly  dismal.  Perhaps  a  thunder-storm  may  have  come 
on.  Enormous  masses  of  cloud  may  be  bearing  down  on  and  enveloping 
you — thunder    of   the    most    deafening    description    breaks    around    you    and 


12 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


re-echoes  worse  than  any  roar  of  artillery  in  battle  from  every  ravine  and 
hill-side.  The  drenching  rain  or  the  driving  mist  may  be  chilling  your 
half-naked  followers  into  blue  numbness,  and  even  bringing  them,  if  they  are 
unsheltered,  dangerously  near  death  from  cold.  Even  if  it  be  a  fine  night, 
and  the  moon  shining,  there  will  be  something  a  little  repellent  and  awe- 
striking  in  the  world  outside  your  tent.  The  forest,  to  the  vicinity  of  which 
you  have  come  for  shelter,  is  very  black,  and  the  strange  cries  of  bird  and 
beast  coming  from  these  depths  quite  confirm  the  native  belief  that  the  trees 
are  haunted  with  the  spirits  of  the  departed.     The  stars  seem  so  near  to  you. 


I'HE    MLANJE   CEDAR    FORESTS 


and  if  in  the  moonlight  you  have  found  your  way  over  the  tussocky  grass 
to  the  edge  of  the  plateau  and  looked  forth  on  a  sleeping  universe  you  feel 
a  little  frightened — so  completely  are  you  aloof  from  the  living  world  of 
man.  It  is  much  pleasanter,  therefore,  to  be  shut  up  in  a  good  tent  or  log 
cabin,  snugly  ensconced  in  bed  (for  it  is  probably  freezing  hard)  reading  a  novel. 

We  are  on  the  upper  plateau  of  Mlanje,  grandest  of  all  British  Central 
African  mountains.  It  is  early  morning,  say  6.30  a.m.  We  have  been  roused 
by  our  native  attendants,  have  had  a  warm  bath  and  a  cup  of  coffee  and  are 
now  inspecting  our  surroundings  in  the  glory  of  the  early  sunshine.  On  the 
short  wiry  grass  there  lies  a  white  rime  of  frost  as  we  walk  down  the  slope 
to  the  cedar  woods.  Here  rises  up  before  us  a  magnificent  forest  of  straight 
and  noble  trees,  of  conifers  ^  which  in  appearance  resemble  cedars  of  Lebanon 

'   IVuidrini^foftia  whyiei. 


WHAT   THE   COUNTRY    LOOKS    LIKE 


13 


though  they  have  also  a  look  of  the  Scotch  pine  and  are  actually  in  their 
natural  relationship  allied  to  the  cypress.  Their  trunks  are  straight  and  the 
outer  bark  is  often  bleached  white  ;  the  wood  is  the  tint  of  a  cedar  pencil.  The 
foliage  which  on  the  older  trees  grows  in  scant  tufts  (leaving  a  huge  white 
skeleton  of  sprawling  branches)  on  the  younger  trees  is  abundant,  bluish-green 


ON   MLANJE   MOUNTAIN 


below  and  the  dark,  sombre  green  of  the  fir  tree  above.  The  extremities  of 
each  branch  have  a  pretty  upward  curl. 

Much  of  the  undergrowth  of  these  cedar  woods  is  a  smaller  species  of 
Widdringtonia  with  a  lighter  green  foliage,  most  gracefully  pendent  and  starlike 
in  each  cluster  of  needles. 

Oh !  the  deep  satisfying  peace  of  these  cedar  woods.  The  air  is  thick  with 
the  odour  of   their  wholesome  resin.      The  ground  at  our  feet  is  a  springy 


14 


BRITISH   CENTRAL   AFRICA 


carpet  of  emerald  green  moss  out  of  which  peep  anemones  and  primulas. 
Here  indeed  when  the  mild  warmth  of  the  day  has  dried  up  the  night  dews 
might  one  lie  half  stupefied  by  the  rich  aroma  of  the  cedar  wood,  "  the  world 
forgetting,  by  the  world  forgot,"  while  the  big  purple  pigeons  with  white- 
streaked  necks  and  yellow  beaks  resume  their  courtship  on  the  branches  above 


A    ROCK   GARDEN   ON    MLANJE 


our  heads.  Beyond  the  cedar  wood  is  the  mountain-side  strewn  with  innumer- 
able boulders  and  cubes  of  rock  which  are  interspersed  with  huge  everlasting 
flowers  and  a  strange  semi-Alpine  vegetation.  If  we  are  trying  to  scramble  up 
these  to  reach  the  summit  we  shall  hear  from  time  to  time  the  musical 
trickle  of  water  in  caverns  and  holes,  closed  in  by  these  strong  boulders  and 
thickly  hung  with  mosses  and  ferns.  Should  we  then  have  reached  any 
of  the  great  summits  of  Mlanje  and  looked  down  into  its  central  crater  we 
shall   realise  that  here   must   have  been    at   one   time  volcanic   action.      The 


PAPYRUS    MARSH   AND   SADDLE-BILLRD   STORKS 


WHAT   THE    COUNTRY    LOOKS    LIKE  17 

scene  before  us  is  an  indescribable  wilderness  of  stones  and  boulders  which  look 
as  though  they  had  been  hurled  right  and  left  from  some  central  eruption.^ 

On  the  left-hand  side  stretches  an  arid  plain  of  loose  friable  soil  once  formed 
below  the  water,  and  white  with  the  lime  of  decomposed  shells  blazing  in  the 
reverberating  sunshine  of  noonday — the  refracted  heat  of  its  surface  so  great 
that  the  horizon  quivers  in  wavy  lines  before  our  half-blinded  eyes ;  on  the 
other  side  a  papyrus  marsh  with  open  pools  of  stagnant  water.  Beyond  the 
arid  waste  of  light  soil  on  which  a  few  grey  wisps  of  grass  are  growing,  lie 
the  deep  blue  waters  of  a  lake — almost  an  indigo  blue  at  noonday  and  seen 
from  this  angle.  Behind  the  papyrus  marsh  is  a  line  of  pale  blue-grey 
mountains  —  a  flat  wash  of  colour,  all  detail  veiled  by  the  heat  haze.  We 
are  at  the  mouth  of  a  great  river  and  the  marshes  on  one  side  of  us  repre- 
sent either  its  abandoned  channels  half  dried  up  or  its  back  water  at  times 
of  overflow.  For  a  mile  or  so  the  eye,  turning  away  with  relief  from  the 
scorching,  bleached,  barren  plain  which  lies  between  us  and  the  lake,  looks 
over  many  acres  of  apple-green  papyrus.  The  papyrus,  as  you  will  observe,  is 
a  rush  with  a  smooth,  round,  tubelike  stem,  sometimes  as  much  as  six  feet  in 
height.  The  stem  terminates  in  a  great  mop-head  of  delicate  green  filaments 
which  are  often  bifid  at  their  ends.  Three  or  four  narrow  leaflets  surround  the 
core  from  which  the  filaments  diverge.  If  the  papyrus  be  in  flower  small 
yellow-green  nodules  dot  the  web  of  the  filaments.  With  the  exception  of 
this  inflorescence  the  whole  rush — stem,  leaves,  and  mop-head — is  a  pure  apple- 
green  and  the  filaments  are  like  shining  silk. 

The  water  in  the  open  patches  in  between  the  islands  and  peninsulas  of 
papyrus  is  quite  stagnant  and  unruffled  and  seemingly  clear.  Sometimes  the 
water  is  black  and  foetid  but  its  tendency  to  corruption  is  often  kept  in  check 
by  an  immense  growth  of  huge  duck  weed, — the  Pistia  stratioteSy  for  all  the 
world  like  a  pale  green  lettuce. 

A  pair  of  saddle-billed  storks  are  wading  through  the  marsh,  searching 
for  fish  and  frogs  and  snakes.  Their  huge  beaks  are  crimson -scarlet,  with 
a  black  band,  and  their  bodies  are  boldly  divided  in  coloration  between  snowy 
white,  inky-black,  and  bronze-green. 

On  Lake  Nyasa.  The  steamer  on  which  you  are  a  passenger,  in  imagina- 
tion, has  left  her  safe  anchorage  in  the  huge  harbour  of  Kotakota  in  the  early 
morning  and  rounding  the  long  sandspit  which  shields  the  inlet  from  the  open 
lake,  finds  herself  breasting  a  short,  choppy  sea.  The  waves  at  first  are  a 
muddy  green  where  the  water  is  shallow  but  soon  this  colour  changes  to  a  deep, 
cold,  unlovely  indigo.  A  strong  southern  breeze  is  blowing  in  your  teeth  and 
each  billow  is  crested  with  white  foam.  The  "  Mwera "  or  south-easter — the 
wind  which  ravages  the  lake  at  certain  times— is  to-day  against  you,  and  you 
are  condemned  by  circumstances  to  steam  southwards  opposed  by  this  strong 
gale.  As  you  get  out  into  the  middle  of  the  lake  the  situation  is  almost  one 
of  danger,  for  the  vessel  on  which  you  are  travelling,  though  dignified  with  the 
name  of  "steamer,"  is  not  much  larger  than  a  Thames  steam  launch.  In  such 
weather  as  this  she  could  not  possibly  go  far  with  the  billows  on  her  beam 

*  These  isolated  fragments  of  granitic  rock  are  found  miles  away  from  the  Mlanje  mountain  in  the 
plains  below  bearing  all  the  appearance  of  having  been  hurled  through  the  air  for  miles  into  the  surround- 
ing country.  Mlanje  mountain  is  evidently  a  large  slice  left  of  the  pre-existing  tableland  from  which 
again  volcanic  cones  have  risen. 


1 8  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

or  she  would  be  rolled  over ;  then  again  if  the  steamer  went  northwards  with 
a  following  sea  she  would  be  speedily  swamped ;  her  only  course — and  it 
happens  on  this  occasion  to  fit  in  with  preconcerted  arrangements — is  to  steam 
southwards,  facing  both  wind  and  waves.  At  times  the  vessel  seems  to  be 
standing  on  end  as  she  crests  some  huge  ridge  of  water ;  and  as  she  descends 
into  the  furrow  this  broad-backed  roller  comes  up  under  her  stern  and  floods 
the  upper  deck.  Then  again  she  mounts,  to  fall  again  and  mount  again  and 
fall  again,  until  the  best  sailor  in  the  world  would  be  dizzy  with  this  hateful 
see-saw  motion.  In  fact,  if  it  were  not  quite  so  dangerous,  an  ordinary 
passenger  would  give  way  to  seasickness ;  yet  on  this  occasion  you  are  too 
frightened  that  the  ship  may  be  swamped  and  founder  to  bestow  much  attention 
on  the  qualms  of  your  stomach. 

But  the  captain  is  hopeful,  and  tells  you  that  as  this  is  the  third  day  the 
wind  has  been  blowing  it  will  probably  cease  towards  the  evening.  Overhead, 
in  spite  of  the  whistling  wind,  the  sky  is  clear  of  clouds  and  a  pale  blue.  The 
lake  is  dark  indigo,  flecked  with  white  foam — not  the  rich,  creamy,  thick,  white 
froth  of  saltwater,  but  a  transparent  clear  foam  like  innumerable  glass  drops 
reflecting  the  sunlight  coldly  from  many  facets. 

The  lake  is  perhaps  forty  miles  broad.  North  and  south  there  is  a  clear  sea 
horizon.  East  and  west  there  are  pale  greyish-blue  outlines  of  mountain 
ranges ;  but  owing  to  the  driving  wind  and  the  slight  diffusion  of '  spray  at 
lower  levels,  or  some  such  atmospheric  cause,  the  lower  slopes  of  the  mountains 
are  invisible  and  the  distant  land  has  no  direct  connection  with  the  sharp-cut 
line  of  the  indigo,  foam-flecked  water. 

But  with  the  afternoon  heat  the  wind  gradually  lessens  in  force — lessens 
to  a  positive  calm  an  hour  before  sunset ;  and  the  waters  of  the  lake  so  easily 
aroused  are  as  quickly  and  as  easily  appeased.  As  the  wind  diminishes  in 
force  the  waves  grow  less  and  less  till  they  are  but  a  gentle  swell  or  a  mere 
ripple.  At  last,  half  an  hour  before  sunset,  you  have  the  following  scene  before 
you.  The  steamer  is  now  travelling  smoothly  and  on  an  even  keel  along  the 
south-east  coast  of  Nyasa.  The  eastern  sky  is  a  yellowish  white,  which  near 
the  horizon  becomes  a  very  pale  russet  pink.  The  distant  range  of  mountains 
facing  the  rays  of  the  almost  setting  sun  has  its  hollows  and  recesses  and 
ravines  marked  in  faint  shadows  of  pinkish-purple,  while  the  parts  bathed  in 
sunlight  are  yellowish  grey.  On  the  left-hand  side  of  the  picture  the  land 
projects  somewhat  into  the  lake  in  a  long  spit  surmounted  with  low  wooded 
hills,  where  the  ground  is  reddish-brown  dotted  with  white  rocks,  and  the  trees 
are  a  warm  russet  green  in  their  lights  and  mauve-blue  in  their  shadows.  In 
the  middle  of  the  view,  breaking  the  long  line  of  the  water  horizon  under  the 
distant  mountains  are  three  warm-tinted  blots  of  brown-pink,  that  represent 
three  islets. 

The  water  of  the  lake,  however,  gives  the  greatest  feast  of  colour.  Its 
ground  tint  near  the  horizon  is  a  lemon  white,  which  changes  insensibly 
to  silver-blue  close  up  to  the  ship's  side.  But  this  immobile  sheet  of  lemon- 
white,  melting  into  palest  azure,  is  scratched  here  and  smeared  there  (like  plush 
which  has  had  the  nap  brushed  the  wrong  way)  with  streaks  and  patches  of 
palest  amber.  The  whole  effect  is  that  of  a  great  mirror  of  tarnished  silver. 
The  amber-white  of  these  disconnected  areas  of  ripples,  where  the  expiring 
breeze  faintly  ruffles  the  perfect  calm  of  the  reflected  sky,  resembles  the  pinkish 
brown  stains  on  a  silver  surface  just  becoming  discoloured  from  exposure  to 
the  light. 


WHAT   THE   COUNTRY    LOOKS    LIKE  19 

Presently  it  will  be  night  with  a  sky  of  purple  grey  studded  with  pale  gold 
specks  of  stars  and  planets,  all  of  which  will  be  reflected  in  the  calm  lake, 
so  that  the  steamer  will  seem  to  be  carving  her  way  through  a  liquid  universe. 

In  a  native  village  near  to  a  great  river  there  are  three  Europeans  in  a  hut. 
Although  styled  generically  a  "  hut ''  this  native  dwelling  is  of  considerable  size, 
with  a  high-peaked  thatched  roof  like  a  broad-mouthed  funnel  in  shape,  the 
straggling  ends  of  the  thatch  coming  down  to  within  a  couple  of  feet  of  the 
ground  and  so,  to  some  extent,  shielding  from  the  sun  the  raised  verandah  of 
grey  mud  which  runs  half  round  the  outside.  But  the  low-hanging  thatch 
screens  the  doorway  into  the  hut,  making  the  interior  dark  even  though  the 
European  occupants  have  broken  small  holes  in  the  clay  walls  to  let  in  a 
little  more  light  from  the  shaded  verandah.  Inside,  the  rafters  of  palm  ribs, 
which  form  the  structure  of  the  roof,  are  all  shiny  cockroach-black  with  the 
smoke  of  many  months  which  has  ascended  to  the  roof  and  found  its  way 
out  through  the  thatch.     Cobwebs,  covered  with  soot,  hang  from  the  rafters. 

Of  the  three  white  men  inside  this  hut  two  are  well  and  hearty — faces  red, 
and  arms  sun-tanned — and  are  seated  upon  empty  provision  cases :  the  third  is 
sick  unto  death,  with  dull  eyes,  haggard  cheeks  and — if  there  is  daylight  enough 
to  see  it  by — a  complexion  of  yellowish-grey.  He  is  stfetched  on  a  low  camp 
bed,  is  dressed  in  a  dirty  sleeping  suit,  and  partially  covered  by  two  trade 
blankets  of  garish  red,  blue  and  yellow,  one  of  which  slips  untidily  to  the  dusty 
floor  of  hardened  earth.  The  two  healthy  men  are  smoking  pipes  vigorously ; 
but  the  smell  of  strong  Boer  tobacco  is  not  sufficient  to  disguise  the  nauseous 
odours  of  the  sick  room,  and  the  fumes  of  whisky,  which  arise  both  from  an 
uncorked  bottle  and  from  the  leavings  of  whisky  and  water  in  two  enamelled- 
iron  cups. 

By  the  sick  man's  bedside  on  a  deal  box  is  an  enamelled-iron  basin  con- 
taining grey  gruel-like  chicken  broth,  in  which  large  bits  of  ship's  biscuit  are 
floating.  The  soup  has  been  made  evidently  without  skill  or  care,  for  it  has  the 
yellow  chicken  fat  floating  on  the  top  and  even  an  occasional  drowned  feather 
attached  to  the  sodden  remnants  of  fowl.  Also,  there  are  a  cup  containing 
strong  whisky  and  water  (untouched),  a  long-necked  bottle  of  lime  juice,  and 
a  phial  of  Quinine  pills. 

The  sick  man  turns  ever  and  anon  to  the  further  side  of  the  bed  to  vomit, 
and  after  one  of  these  attacks  he  groans  with  the  agony  of  futile  nausea. 
"  Cheer  up,  old  chap !"  says  one  of  his  companions,  *'  we  sent  yesterday  morning 
to  the  doctor-man  at  the  mission  station  :  it  is  only  about  thirty  miles  away  and 
he  ought  to  be  here  this  afternoon."  The  doorway  is  darkened  for  a  moment 
but  not  with  the  doctor's  advent.  A  negro  girl  has  stooped  under  the  thatch  to 
enter  through  the  low  doorway  and  for  a  moment  obscures  the  dubious  light 
refracted  from  the  small  piece  of  blazing  sun-lit  ground  visible  under  the  eaves. 
"  Here,  ^V,  you  black  slut,"  shouts  one  of  the  men  (he  with  the  sandy  beard  and 
pockmarked  face),  lifting  up  a  short  whip  of  hippopotamus  hide  to  enforce  his 
remark.  **  Hold  on,"  says  the  other  healthy  one,  a  tall  brawny  Cornishman, 
with  dark  eyes  and  black  beard,  "  it  is  only  his  girl ;  harmless  enough  too,  poor 
thing,  considering  she  has  known  him  more'n  a  fortnight.  It's  wonderful  what 
these  nigger  girls '11  do  for  a  white  man.' 

**  There  are  all  sorts  of  girls,  there  is  every  kind  of  girl, 

There  are  some  that  are  foolish,  and  many  that  are  wise, 
You  can  trust  them  all,  no  doubt,  but  be  careful  to  look  out 
For  the  harmless  little  girlie  with  the  downcast  eyes," 


20  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

sings  the  pockmarked  man,  in  reminiscence  of  a  smoking  concert  he  attended 
months  ago  at  Salisbury,  before  he  and  his  companions  tramped  northwards 
across  the  Zambezi  in  search  of  gold  and  any  other  profitable  discoveries  they 
might  make  in  the  unknown  North. 

The  woman,  who  has  taken  little  or  no  notice  of  the  other  men,  has 
seated  herself  on  the  floor  near  the  sick  man's  bed  and  is  fanning  away 
the  flies  from  his  death-like  face.  He  scarcely  notices  this  attention,  con- 
tinuing as  before  to  roll  his  head  languidly  across  the  rolled-up  coat  which 
serves  as  pillow. 

Outside  the  hut  it  is  a  bright  world  enough — a  sky  of  pure  cobalt,  with 
white  cumulus  clouds  moving  across  it  before  a  pleasant  breeze.  Except 
where  these  clouds  cast  a  momentary  shadow  there  is  a  flood  of  sunshine, 
making  the  dry  thatched  roofs  of  the  round  haycock  houses  glitter;  and 
as  to  the  bare  beaten  ground  of  the  village  site,  in  this  strong  glare  of 
sunshine  you  would  hardly  realise  it  is  mere  red  clay :  it  has  an  effulgent 
blaze  of  flame -tinted  white  except  where  objects  cast  on  it  circumscribed 
shadows  of  a  purple  black. 

Tw^o  or  three  native  curs,  of  the  usual  fox-coloured,  pariah  type,  lie  sleeping 
or  grubbing  for  fleas  in  the  sunshine.  A  lank,  wretched-looking  mangy  bitch, 
with  open  sores  on  her  ears  and  fly-infested  dugs,  trails  herself  wearily  from  hut 
to  hut,  seeking  food,  but  only  to  be  repulsed  by  kicks  from  unseen  feet,  or 
missiles  hurled  by  unseen  hands.  Little  chocolate -coloured  children  are 
playing  in  the  dust,  or  baking  in  the  sun  clay  images  they  have  made 
with  dust  and  water.  Most  of  the  houses  have  attached  to  them  a  woman's 
compound  at  the  back,  fenced  in  with  a  high  reed  fence.  If  you  entered 
this  compound  from  the  verandah,  or  peeped  over  the  high  fence,  you  would 
see  cheerful  garrulous  women  engaged  in  preparing  food.  A  steady  "  thud, 
thud ! "  "  thud,  thud ! "  comes  from  one  group  of  hearty  girls  with  plump 
upstanding  breasts  who,  glistening  with  perspiration,  are  alternately  pounding 
corn  in  a  wooden  mortar  shaped  like  a  dice  box.  Each  in  turn,  as  she  takes 
the  pestle,  spits  on  her  hands  and  thumps  the  heavy  piece  of  wood  up  and 
down  on  the  bruised  corn.  Another  woman  is  grinding  meal  on  the  surface 
of  a  large  flat  stone  by  means  of  a  smaller  stone  which  is  smooth  and  round  ; 
again,  another  wife  with  the  aid  of  other  flattened  stones  bruises  green  herbs 
mixed  with  oil  and  salt  into  a  savoury  spinach.  In  all  the  compounds  and 
about  the  streets  are  hens  and  broods  of  chickens.  Mongrel  game-cocks  are 
sheltering  themselves  from  the  heat  under  shaded  verandahs,  which  they  share 
with  plump  goats  of  small  size  and  diverse  colours — white,  black,  chestnut,  grey; 
black  and  white,  white  and  chestnut,  grey  and  white.  The  sun-smitten  village 
at  high  noon  is  silent  but  for  the  low-toned  talk  of  the  women,  of  the  "  thud, 
thud  "  of  the  corn-mortars,  the  baaing  and  bleating  of  an  imprisoned  kid,  or  the 
sudden  yelp  of  the  half-starved  bitch  when  a  missile  strikes  her. 

Beyond  the  collection  of  haycock  huts  (occupying  perhaps  a  half  square 
mile  in  area),  is  a  fringe  of  bananas,  and  beyond  the  bananas  from  one  point 
of  view  the  glint  of  a  river,  and  across  the  river  a  belt  of  black-green  forest. 
In  other  directions,  away  from  the  water-side  is  red  rising  ground  sprinkled 
with  scrubby  thin-foliaged  trees,  among  which  here  and  there  grows  a  huge 
gouty  baobab,  showing  at  this  season  digitate  leaves  like  a  horse-chestnut's, 
and  large  tarnished  white  flowers  that  depend  by  a  straight  string-like  stalk 
from  the  pink  and  glabrous  branches. 

Noon  declines  to  afternoon.     The  two  men  who  are  whole  still  remain  in 


WHAT   THE   COUNTRY    LOOKS    LIKE  21 

the  hut ;  the  sick  man  is  obviously  sicker  than  before.  His  face  is  an  obscure 
yellow,  he  has  ceased  to  vomit,  he  is  no  longer  restless,  he  lies  in  a  stupor, 
breathing  stertorously.  The  black-bearded  man  smokes,  and  reads  a  tattered 
novelette,  glancing  from  time  to  time  uneasily  at  the  one  who  lies  so  ill,  but 
trying  to  still  his  anxiety  by  assuring  himself  ''  that  the  poor  beggar  has  got 
to  sleep  at  last."  The  man  with  the  red  hair  and  pockmarked  cheeks  sings 
snatches  of  music-hall  songs  at  intervals  and  drinks  whisky  and  water,  trying 
hard  to  keep  up  his  courage.  For  he  is  in  a  cold-sweating  dread  of  death  by 
fever — a  death  which  can  come  so  quickly.  A  month  ago-  there  were  four  of 
them,  all  in  riotous  health,  revelling  in  the  excitements  of  exploring  a  new 
country,  confident  that  they  had  found  traces  of  gold,  merrily  slaughtering 
buffalo,  eland,  kudu  and  sable ;  sometimes  after  elephant  with  the  thought  of  the 
hundreds  of  pounds'  worth  of  ivory  they  might  secure  with  a  few  lucky  shots ; 
killing  "hippo"  in  the  river  and  collecting  their  great  curved  tusks  for  subsequent 
sale  at  a  far-off  trading  station ;  trafficking  with  the  natives  in  the  flesh  of  all 
the  beasts  they  slew  and  getting  in  exchange  the  unwholesome  native  meal, 
bunches  of  plantains,  calabashes  of  honey,  red  peppers,  rice,  sugar  cane,  fowls, 
eggs,  and  goat's  milk.  They  had  not  treated  the  natives  badly,  and  the  natives 
in  a  kind  of  way  liked  these  rough  pioneers  who  offered  no  violence  beyond  an 
occasional  kick,  who  were  successful  in  sport  and  consequently  generous  in 
meat  distribution,  and  who  gave  them  occasional  "tots"  of  "kachaso,"*  and 
paid  for  the  temporary  allotment  of  native  wives  in  pinches  of  gunpowder, 
handfuls  of  caps,  yards  of  cloth,  old  blankets  and  clasp  knives.  Yes  ;  a  month 
ago  they  were  having  a  very  good  time,  they  were  not  even  hampered  by  the 
slight  restraints  over  their  natural  instincts  which  might  exist  in  Mashonaland. 
They  had  found  obvious  signs  of  payable  gold — "  an  ounce  to  the  tori  if  only 
machinery  could  be  got  up  there  for  crushing  the  rock  " — they  would  return  to 
the  south  and  float  a  company ;  meantime  they  had  intended  to  see  a  little  more 
of  this  bounteous  land  blessed  with  an  abundant  rainfall,  a  rich  soil,  a  luxuriant 
vegetation,  a  friendly  people,  grand  sport,  and  heaps  of  food ;  and  then,  all  at 
once,  one  of  them  after  a  bottle  of  whisky  overnight  and  a  drenching  in  a 
thunderstorm  next  day,  complains  of  a  bad  pain  in  his  back.  A  few  hours 
afterwards  he  commences  to  vomit,  passes  black-water,  turns  bright  yellow, 
falls  into  a  stupor,  and  in  two  days  is  dead.  "Was  it  the  whisky,  or  the 
wetting,  or  neither?  It  could  not  be  the  whisky:  good  liquor  was  what  was 
wanted  to  counteract  this  deadly  climate ;  no,  it  could  not  be  the  whisky ;  on 
the  contrary,"  thought  the  man  who  turns  these  thoughts  over  musingly  in  his 
mind,  "  he  himself  must  take  more  whisky  to  keep  his  spirits  up.  When  old 
Sampson  was  better  and  could  be  carried  in  a  hammock,  they  would  all 
make  straight  for  the  Lake  and  the  steamers  and  so  pass  out  of  the  country, 
perhaps  returning  to  work  the  gold,  perhaps  not." 

The  heat  of  the  afternoon  increases.  The  man  on  the  bed  still  snores,  the 
woman  still  fans,  Blackbeard  has  fallen  asleep  over  his  novelette  and  Redhead 
over  his  whisky  and  water.  The  silence  of  the  village  is  suddenly  broken  by  a 
sound  of  voices  and  the  tramp  of  feet  Blackbeard  wakes  up,  rubs  his  eyes 
and  staggers  out  into  the  sunshine  to  greet  a  thin  wiry  European  with  bright 
eyes  and  a  decided  manner.  "  Oh  .  .  .  you  are  the  Mission  doctor,  aren't  you  ? 
Come  in — in  here.  He  is  pretty  bad,  poor  chap,  but  I  expect  you  will  do  him 
a  lot  of  good."  ... 

It  is  early  evening.     The  two  mining  prospectors  have  left  the  hut,  advised 

'  Fire-water — whisky. 


22 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


by  the  doctor  to  chuck  their  whisky  bottles  into  the  river  and  go  out  shooting. 
The  former  piece  of  advice  they  have  not  followed,  but  the  latter  they  have 
gladly  adopted,  frightened  at  the  aspect  of  their  dying  comrade,  and  only  too 
glad  to  leave  the  responsibility  of  his  care  to  the  Mission  doctor,  who  for 
two  hours  has  tried  all  he  knows  to  restore  the  patient  to  consciousness,  without 
success.  The  woman  has  helped  him  as  far  as  she  was  able,  the  doctor  much 
too  anxious  about  his  patient  to  concern  himself  about  the  propriety  of  her 
position  in  the  case.  Outside  the  hut  there  is  a  cheerful  noise  of  the  aw^akening 
village  settling  down  to  its  evening  meal.  Flights  of  spurwinged  geese,  black 
storks  and  white  egrets  pass  in  varied  flocks  and  phalanxes  across  the  rosy 
western  sky.  But  inside,  by  the  light  of  two  candles  stuck  in  bottles,  which  the 
doctor  has  lit  to  replace  the  daylight,  it  may  be  seen  that  his  patient  is  nearing 
the  end;  yet  as  the  end  comes  there  is  a  momentary  return  to  consciousness. 
The  stertorous  breathing  has  given  way  to  a  scarcely  perceptible  respiration,  and 
as  the  doctor  applies  further  means  of  restoration  a  sudden  brightness  and  light 
of  recognition  come  into  the  dull  eyes.  The  expiring  man  tries  to  raise 
his  head — cannot !  and  to  speak — but  no  sound  comes  from  his  whitened 
lips,  then  one  long  drawn  bubbling  sigh  and  the  end  has  come. 

A  great,  untidy,  Arab  town  near  the  shores  of  a  lake,  the  blue  waters  of 
which  can  be  seen  over  the  unequal  ground  of  the  village  outskirts  and  through 
a  fringe  of  wind-blown  banana  trees.  On  one  of  the  little  squares  of  blue 
water  thus  framed  in  by  dark-green  fronds  may  be  seen  part  of  a  dau  at  anchor 
with  a  tall,  clumsy^  brown  mast,  thick  rigging,  and  a  hull  somewhat  gaudily 

painted  in  black  and  pink.  We 
are  sitting  under  the  broad 
verandah  of  a  large  house,  a 
house  which  is  in  reality  no- 
thing but  a  structure  of  timber 
and  lath  covered  with  a  thick 
coating  of  black  mud ;  but  the 
mud  has  been  so  well  laid  on 
and  is  so  smooth,  time-worn 
and  shiny  as  to  have  the 
appearance  of  very  dark  stone. 
The  roof  is  of  thatch,  descend- 
ing from  some  forty  feet  above 
the  ground  to  scarcely  more 
than  five  feet  over  the  edge  of 
the  verandah.  This  verandah 
only  occupies  one.  side  of  the 
house  and  is  large  enough  to 
be — what  it  is — an  outer  hall 
of  audience;^  fifteen  feet  broad  and  with  a  raised  dais  of  polished  mud  on 
either  side  of  the  passage  which  crosses  the  verandah  to  enter  the  main 
dwelling.  As  the  interior  rooms  of  this  house  are  mostly  unfurnished  with 
windows  and  only  derive  their  light  from  the  central  passage  (which  has  an 
open  door  at  either  end)  they  are  quite  dark  inside  and  even  in  the  daytime 
little  Arab  lamps  (earthenware  saucers  filled  with  oil  and  with  cotton  wicks) 
have  to  be  lighted  to  see  one's  way  about. 

^  Called  by  Zanzilxiris  *'baraza." 


THE    "sultan's   BARAZA' 


WHAT   THE   COUNTRY    LOOKS    LIKE  23 

In  front  of  the  house,  in  the  open  public  square,  is  a  fine  cocoanut  tree 
which  has  been  planted  from  a  cocoanut  brought  from  the  East  Coast  of  Africa. 
Across  the  square  a  ramshackle  building  is  pointed  out  as  the  Mosque,  and 
Arabs  of  all  shades — of  negro  blackness  and  of  European  whiteness — are 
walking  backwards  and  forwards  through  the  blazing  sunshine  to  perform  their 
ablutions  in  the  court  of  the  Mosque,  or  to  enter  the  building  to  pray. 

The  Sultan  of  the  place,  in  one  of  whose  houses  we  are  tarrying  (in 
imagination)  is  about  to  have  his  noontide  meal,  and  asks  us  to  join.  He 
himself  is  seated  on  a  mattress  placed  on  a  mud  bench  against  the  wall  under 
the  verandah,  and  is  clothed  in  a  long,  white  garment  reaching  down  to  his  heels, 
over  which  he  wears  a  sleeveless,  orange-coloured  waistcoat  richly  embroidered 
with  silver,  a  shawl-sash  wound  round  his  waist,  and  over  one  shoulder  a  light 
Indian  cloth  of  chequered  pattern  brightly  fringed.  Through  the  shawl 
waistband  peep  out  the  hilt  and  part  of  the  scabbard  of  one  of  those  ornamental 
curved  daggers  which  are  worn  at  Zanzibar  and  in  the  Persian  Gulf;  this  hilt 
and  scabbard  are  of  richly-chased  silver. 

The  Sultan  has  a  face  which  in  some  respects  is  prepossessing.  It  is 
certainly  not  cruel  though  he  is  known  to  have  done  many  cruel  things.  The 
once  fine  eyes  are  somewhat  clouded  with  premature  age  and  the  exhaustion  of 
a  polygamist ;  but  there  are  a  sensitiveness  and  refinement  about  the  purple- 
lipped  mouth  and  well-shaped  chin,  the  outlines  of  which  can  be  seen  through 
the  thin  grey  beard.  The  hands  have  slender,  knotted  fingers  and  the  nails  are 
short  and  exquisitely  kept. 

The  taking  of  food  is  preceded  by  the  washing  of  hands.  Attendants — 
who  are  either  black  coast  Arabs,  gorgeously  habited  in  embroidered  garments 
of  black,  silver  and  gold,  or  else  dirty,  blear-eyed,  negro  boys,  scarcely  clothed 
at  all  and  with  grey,  scurvy  skins  (the  dirtiest  and  stupidest-looking  of  these 
boys  is  the  Sultan's  factotum  in  the  household  and  carries  his  keys  on  a  string 
round  his  lean  neck)  come  to  us  with  brass  ewers  and  basins.  The  ewers  are 
long-spouted,  like  coffee  pots.  Water  is  poured  over  our  hands,  which  after 
rinsing  we  dry  as  best  we  can  on  our  pocket  handkerchiefs,  while  the  Sultan 
wipes  his  on  his  Indian  cloth  which  is  slung  over  his  shoulder  and  is  used 
indifferently  as  napkin  and  handkerchief.  Then  a  brass  platter  of  large 
size,  covered  with  a  pyramid  of  steaming  rice,  is  placed  on  the  dais  and 
alongside  it  an  earthenware  pot  (very  hot)  containing  curried  chicken.  The 
Sultan  having  rolled  up  a  ball  of  rice  between  his  fingers  and  dipped  it  into  the 
curry,  invites  us  to  do  the  same.  Our  fingers  are  scalded  by  the  rice ;  but  it 
must  be  admitted  that  the  flavour  of  the  curry  is  excellent.  When  this  course 
is  finished  a  bowl  of  pigeons  stewed  with  lentils  is  brought  on,  and  this  also 
is  eaten  by  the  aid  of  our  fingers.  For  drink  we  have  cold,  pure  water  from 
an  earthenware  cooler,  and  the  milk  of  unripe  cocoanuts. 

The  meal  finishes  with  bananas  and  roasted  ground  nuts.  Then  more 
washing  of  hands  and  we  recline  on  some  dirty  cushions  or  on  lion  skins,  whilst 
the  Sultan  gives  audience  to  messengers,  courtiers  and  new  arrivals.  Some  of 
these  last-named  glance  suspiciously  at  us  and  are  not  disposed  to  be  very 
communicative  about  their  recent  experiences  in  the  presence  of  Europeans. 
The  Sultan  sees  this  and  enjoys  the  humour  of  the  situation.  He  is  himself 
indifferent  to  the  slave  trade,  having  secured  his  modest  competence  years  ago 
and  now  caring  for  nothing  more  than  the  friendship  of  European  potentates, 
which  will  enable  him  to  finish  his  days  in  peace  and  tranquillity.  After  he 
is  gone  he  knows  that  in  all  probability  there  will  be  no  other  Sultan  in  his 


24  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

place,  but  a  European  official.  In  his  heart  of  hearts,  of  course,  he  sees  no 
harm  in  the  slave  trade.  He  is  well  aware  that  he  is  entertaining  at  one  and 
the  same  time  European  officials  of  high  standing  and  five  or  six  powerful 
Arab  slave  dealers,  and  that  his  large,  rambling  metropolis  of  several  square 
miles  in  area  harbours  simultaneously  not  only  the  Europeans  and  their  porters, 
servants,  and  escort,  but  perhaps  three  hundred  raw  slaves  from  the  Ludlaba. 
But  he  is  not  going  to  give  his  compatriots  away  unless  they  make  fools  of 
themselves  by  any  attempt  to  molest  the  Europeans,  in  which  case,  and  in 
any  case  if  it  comes  to  a  choice  of  sides,  he  will  take  the  part  of  the  European. 
In  his  dull  way  this  unlettered  man,  who  has  read  little  else  than  the  Koran 
and  a  few  Arab  books  of  obscenities,  or  of  fortune- telling,  has  grasped  the  fact 
that  from  their  own  inherent  faults  and  centuries  of  wrong-doing,  Islam  and 
Arab  civilisation  must  yield  the  first  place  to  the  religion  and  influence  of  the 
European.  He  has  no  prejiSdice  against  Christianity — on  the  contrary,  perhaps 
a  greater  belief  in  its  supernatural  character  than  some  of  the  Englishmen  he 
entertains  from  time  to  time — but  if  his  inchoate  thoughts  could  be  interpreted 
in  one  sentence  it  would  be  "  Not  in  our  time,  O  Lord ! "  The  change  must 
come  but  may  it  come  after  his  death.  Meantime  he  hopes  that  you  will  not 
drive  home  too  far  the  logic  of  your  rule.  When  he  is  gone  the  Christian 
missionary  may  come  and  build  there,  but  while  he  lasts  he  prefers  to  see 
nothing  but  the  ramshackle  mosques  of  his  own  faith  and  to  have  his  half- 
caste  children  taught  in  the  Arab  fashion.  He  points  out  some  to  you  who  are 
sitting  in  the  verandah  of  an  opposite  hut,  under  the  shade  of  a  knot  of  papaw 
trees  ;  a  hideous  old  negroid  Arab  with  a  dark  skin  and  pockmarked  face  is 
teaching  them  to  read.  Each  child  has  a  smooth  wooden  board  with  a  long 
handle,  something  like  a  hand-mirror  in  shape.  The  surface  of  this  board  is 
whitened  with  a  thin  coating  of  porcelain  clay  ;  and  Arab  letters,  verses  of  the 
Koran  and  sentences  for  parsing  are  written  on  it  by  means  of  a  reed  pen 
dipped  in  ink  or  by  a  piece  of  charcoal. 

There  is  a  certain  pathos  about  this  uneducated  old  coast  Arab  who  has  been 
a  notable  man  in  his  day  as  conqueror  and  slave  raider  but  who  has  had 
sufficient  appreciation  of  the  value  of  well-doing  not  to  be  always  a  slave  raider, 
who  has  sought  to  inspire  a  certain  amount  of  affection  among  the  populations 
he  enslaved.  These  in  time  have  come  to  regard  him  as  their  natural 
sovereign,  though  the  older  generation  can  remember  his  first  appearance  in  the 
country  as  an  Arab  adventurer  at  the  head  of  a  band  of  slavers.  His  soldiers, 
most  of  them  now  recruited  from  amongst  his  negro  subjects,  cheerfully  raid  the 
territories  of  other  chiefs  in  the  interior,  but  slave  raiding  within  his  own  especial 
kingdom  has  long  since  ceased  and  a  certain  degree  of  order  and  security  has 
been  established.  Let  us  set  off  against  the  crimes  of  his  early  manhood  the 
good  he  has  done  subsequently  by  introducing  from  Zanzibar  the  cocoanut- 
palm,  the  lime  tree,  the  orange,  good  white  rice,  onions,  cucumbers  and  other 
useful  products  of  the  East ;  by  sternly  repressing  cannibalism,  abolishing 
witchcraft  trials,  improving  the  architecture,  and  teaching  many  simple  arts  and 
inducing  the  negroes  to  clothe  their  somewhat  extravagant  nudity  in  seemly, 
tasteful  garments. 

He  has  known  Livingstone  and  may  even  have  secured  a  good  word  from 
that  Apostle  of  Africa  for  hospitality  and  for  relative  humanity,  as  compared 
to  other  and  wickeder  Arabs.  This  casual  mention  of  him  in  the  book  of  the 
great  **  Dottori"^  will  cause  him  a  childish  pleasure  if  you  point  it  out.     "  Has 

^  The  name  by  which  Livingstone  is  almost  universally  known  in  Central  Africa. 


WHAT   THE   COUNTRY    LOOKS    LIKE 


25 


the  'Quini'  read  this  book?"  he  asks.  "Yes,"  you  reply.  "Then  the  Queen 
has  seen  my  name?"  and  this  reflection  apparently  causes  him  much  satisfaction, 
for  he  repeats  the  observation  to  himself  at  intervals  and  even  forces  it  on  the 
attention  of  a  sullen-looking  black-bro\Ved  Maskat  Arab  who  is  waiting  in 
the  baraza  to  settle  with  the  Sultan  the  amount  of  tribute  he  must  pay  for 
the  passage  of  his  slave  and  ivory  caravan  across  the  territory  and  over  the  lake 
by  means  of  the  Sultan's  daus. 

I  will  transport  you  to  the  south  end  of  Lake  Tanganyika. 
In  the  background  to  this  scene  is  a  fine  mountain  which,  like  most  Central 
African  mountains,  presents  from  below  the  appearance  of  a  cake  that  has  been 


MOUNT  KAPEMBA,  TANGANYIKA 

cut  and  is  crumbling.  There  is  first  of  all  the  granite  wall  of  undulating  out- 
line bearing  a  thin  line  of  trees  along  its  crest.  Then  half-way  down  its  slope 
begins  below  the  bare  shining  rock  walls  a  ribbed  slope  of  debris,  which  slope 
is  covered  with  luxuriant  purple-green  forest :  the  whole  estomp^  with  a  film  of 
blue  atmosphere,  which  sets  it  back  to  its  proper  place  in  the  distance,  so  that 
if  you  half  close  your  eyes  the  general  effect  of  this  mountain  mass  is  a  greyish 
purple. 

As  if  in  abrupt  contrast  to  this  upreared  mass  of  rocks  and  trees  towering 
at)[least  4000  feet  into  the  sky  is  a  slice  of  bright  green  swamp,  separating  the 
mountain  slopes  from  the  lake  water.  The  foreground  to  this  picture  is  the 
broad  estuary  of  a  river  at  its  entrance  to  Tanganyika.     On  your  right  hand 


26  BRITISH    CENTRAL    AFRICA 

you  have  a  spit  of  yellow  sand  which  separates  the  unruffled  mirror  of  this  calm 
water  from  the  boisterous  waves  of  the  open  lake.  These  are  greenish  blue 
with  brown  marblings  and  muddy  white  crests  where  they  are  receiving  the 
alluvium  of  the  river ;  and  fierce  indigo  streaked  with  blazing  white  foam  where 
the  lake  is  open,  deep  and  wind-swept     On  your  left  hand  the  estuary  of  this 

river  (where  the  water  is  a  speckless 
mirror  of  the  blue  sky  and  its 
cream -white  grey-shadowed  clouds) 
is  studded  with  many  green  islets  of 
papyrus  and  girt  with  hedges  of  tall 
reeds  —  the  reeds  with  the  white 
plumes  and  pointed  dagger  leaves 
that  I  have  once  or  twice  before 
described. 

This  conjunction  of  mountain,  river, 
marsh,  estuary,  sandspit,  open  lake 
and  papyrus  tangle  brings  about  such 
a  congeries  of  bird  life  that  I  have 
thought  it  worth  the  trouble  to  bring 
you  all  the  way  to  Tanganyika  to 
ON  TANGANYIKA  gaze  at  this  huge  aviary.     And  al- 

though on  many  of  these  journeys 
you  are  supposed  to  be  looking  on  the  scene  with  the  eye  of  the  spirit 
and  not  of  the  flesh,  and  therefore  able  to  see  Nature  undisturbed  by  the 
presence  of  man,  still  on  this  spot  you  might  stand  in  actuality,  as  I  have 
stood,  and,  provided  you  did  not  fire  a  gun,  see  this  collection  of  birds  as 
though  they  were  enclosed  in  some  vast  Zoological  Gardens.  For  some 
cause  or  other  has  brought  the  fish  down  from  the  upper  reaches  of  the 
stream  or  up  from  the  lake.  The  water  of  the  estuary  is  of  unruffled 
smoothness.  Most  waterbirds  detest  the  rough  waves  of  the  open  lake,  or 
the  current  of  a  rapid  stream  ;  even  now  if  you  turn  your  eyes  lakewards 
the  only  birds  you  will  see  are  small  grey  gulls  with  black  barred  faces  and 
black  tipped  wings  and  the  large  scissor-billed  terns  (grey  and  white  with 
crimson  beaks)  flying  with  seeming  aimlessness  over  the  troubled  waters. 
But  in  the  estuary,  what  an  assemblage !  There  are  pelicans  of  grey,  white 
and  salmon  pink,  with  yellow  pouches,  riding  the  water  like  swans,  replete 
with  fish  and  idly  floating.  Egyptian  geese  (fawn-coloured,  white,  and  green- 
bronze)  ;  spur  winged  geese  (bronze-green,  white  shouldered,  white  flecked,  and 
red  cheeked) ;  African  teal  (coloured  much  like  the  English  teal) ;  a  small  jet 
black  pochard  with  a  black  crest  and  yellow  eyes ;  whistling  tree  duck  (which 
are  black  and  white,  zebra-barred,  and  chestnut);  other  tree  ducks  (chestnut  and 
white) ;  that  huge  Sarcidiornis  (a  monstrous  duck  with  a  knobbed  beak,  a 
spurred  wing,  and  a  beautiful  plumage  of  white  and  bronzed-blue  with  a  green- 
blue  speculum  in  the  secondaries  of  the  wing).  All  these  ducks  and  geese 
hang  about  the  fringe  of  the  reeds  and  the  papyrus.  The  ducks  are  diving 
for  fish,  but  the  geese  are  more  inclined  to  browse  off"  the  water-weed.  Every 
now  and  then  there  is  a  disturbance,  and  the  reflexions  of  the  water  are  broken 
by  a  thousand  ripples  as  the  ducks  scutter  over  the  surface  or  the  geese  rise 
with  much  clamour  for  a  circling  flight.  Farthest  away  of  all  the  birds  (for 
they  are  always  shy)  is  a  long  file  of  rosy  flamingoes  sifting  the  water 
for  small  fish  and  molluscs.     Thev  are  so  far  off  that  their  movements  are 


WHAT   THE    COUNTRY   LOOKS    LIKE  27 

scarcely  perceptible ;  against  the  green  background  of  the  marsh  they  look  like 
a  vast  fringe  of  pale  pink  azaleas  in  full  blossom. 

Small  bronze-green  cormorants  are  plunging  into  the  water  for  fish,  diving 
and  swimming  under  water,  and  flying  away.  Fish-catching  on  a  more  modest 
scale  and  quite  close  to  where  we  stand  is  being  carried  on  by  black  and  white 
Ceryle  kingfishers,  who  with  their  bodies  nearly  erect  and  the  head  and  beak 
directed  downwards  will  poise  themselves  in  the  air  with  rapidly  fluttering  wings 
and  then  dart  unerringly  head  foremost  on  some  tiny  fish  under  the  surface  of 
the  \<^ater. 

On  the  sandspit  two  dainty  crowned  cranes  are  pacing  the  sand  and  the 
scattered  wiry  grass  looking  for  locusts.  Even  at  this  distance — and  especially 
if  you  use  a  glass — you  can  distinguish  the  details  of  their  coloration.  It 
will  be  seen  that  they  have  a  short,  finely-shaped  beak  of  slatey  black,  a 
large  eye  of  bluish  grey,  surrounded  by  a  black  ring ;  and  the  cheeks  covered 
with  bare  porcelain-like  skin,  pure  white,  which  is  much  enhanced  by  an 
edging  of  crimson  developing  below  the  throat  into  two  bright  crimson 
wattles.  The  head  is  fitly  crowned  with  a  large  aigrette  of  golden  filaments, 
tipped  with  black.  The  neck  with  its  long  hackles  is  dove  grey.  The  back 
and  the  breast  are  slate  colour,  the  mass  of  the  wing  is  snow  white,  and  its 
huge  broadened  pinions  are  reddish  chocolate,  the  white  secondaries  being 
prolonged  into  a  beautiful  golden  fringe  hanging  gracefully  over  the  chocolate 
quill  feathers. 

The  quacking  of  the  ducks,  the  loud  cries  of  the  geese  and  the  compound 
sound  of  splashings  and  divings  and  scuttering  flights  across  the  water,  are 
dominated  from  time  to  time  by  the  ear-piercing  screams  of  a  fish  eagle, 
perched  on  one  of  the  taller  poles  of  a  fishing  weir.  The  bird  is  as  full  of 
fish  as  he  can  hold,  but  yet  seems  annoyed  at  the  guzzling  that  is  going  on 
around  him,  and  so  relieves  his  feelings  at  odd  moments  by  piercing  yells.  He 
is  a  handsome  bird — head  and  neck  and  breast  snow  white,  the  rest  of  the 
plumage  chocolate  brown. 

Add  to  the  foregoing  enumeration  of  birds  stilt  plovers  of  black  and  white ; 
spur-winged  plovers  with  yellow  wattles ;  curlew ;  sandpipers ;  crimson-beaked 
pratincoles;  sacred  ibis  (pure  white  and  indigo- purple) ;  hagedash  ibis  (irides- 
cent-blue, green,  and  red-bronze) ;  gallinules  (verditer  blue  with  red  beaks) ; 
black  water-rails  with  lemon  beaks  and  white  pencillings;  black  coots;  other 
rails  that  are  blue  and  green  with  turned-up  white  tails ;  squacco  herons  (white 
and  fawn-coloured) ;  large  grey  herons ;  purple-slate-coloured  herons ;  bluish- 
gray  egrets  ;  white  egrets ;  large  egrets  with  feathery  plumes  ;  small  egrets  with 
snowy  bodies  and  yellow  beaks  ;  Goliath  herons  (nut-brown  and  pinkish-grey) ; 
small  black  storks,  with  open  and  serrated  beaks ;  monstrous  bare-headed 
marabu  storks ;  and  dainty  lily-trotters^  (black  and  white,  golden-yellow  and 
chocolate-brown) ;  and  you  will  still  only  have  got  half  way  through  the 
enumeration  of  this  extraordinary  congregation  of  water  birds  at  the  estuary 
of  the  river  Lofu,  on  the  south  coast  of  Tanganyika. 

Civilisation. — We  are  going  to  spend  a  Sunday  at  Blantyre,  a  European 
settlement  in  the  Shire  Highlands.  Except  for  the  name,  however,  there  is  no 
similarity  between  the  little  manufacturing  town,  which  was  Livingstone's  birth- 
place, and  the  chief  focus  of  European  interests  here  in  South  Central  Africa. 
These   are   the   characteristics   of  the   African   Blantyre  on  a  bright  Sunday 

^  Parra  Africana, 


28  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

morning  in  May: — A  glorious  blue  sky;  floods  of  sunshine;  a  cool  breeze  and 
a  sparkling  freshness  in  the  atmosphere  which  reminds  one  of  Capetown ;  clean 
red  roads,  neat  brick  houses,  purple  mountains,  and  much  greenery. 

The  organ  is  giving  forth  a  hymn  of  Mendelssohn's  by  way  of  introit  as  we 
enter  the  church,  and  as,  simultaneously,  the  choir  and  clergy  take  their  places. 
The  Norman  architecture  of  the  interior,  the  stained  glass  windows,  the 
embroidered  altar  cloths,  the  brass  lecterns  and  their  eagles,  the  carved  altar 
rails,  the  oak  pulpit,  the  well-appointed  seats  with  scarlet  cushions — even  the 
sunlight  checked  in  its  exuberance  by  passing  through  the  diamond  panes 
of  the  tinted  windows — produce  an  effect  on  the  newcomer  of  absolute  astonish- 
ment. He  requires  to  fix  his  eyes  on  the  black  choir  in  their  scarlet  and  white 
vestments  to  realise  that  he  is  in  Africa  and  not  in  Edinburgh  or  Regent's  Park. 
The  congregation  consists  mainly  of  Europeans  and  the  service  is  in  English. 
{The  natives  will  assemble  at  other  hours  when  worship  is  conducted  in  their 
own  language.]  A  short  service  with  good  music,  well  sung  by  the  black  choir, 
and  a  quarter  of  an  hour's  sermon:  then  we  are  out  once  more  in  the  sunny 
square,  in  a  temperature  not  hotter  than  a  mild  summer's  day  at  home, 
exchanging  greetings  with  many  acquaintances,  almost  all  of  whom  are  habited 
in  such  clothes  as  they  would  wear  on  a  Sunday  in  Scotland.  Some  of  the  men 
turn  out  in  black  coats,  light  trousers,  top  hats,  patent  leather  boots,  white  spats 
and  brown  gloves ;  and  the  ladies  are  wearing  silk  blouses  and  cloth  skirts,  with 
all  the  furbelows  and  puffs  and  pinchings  and  swellings  which  were  the  height 
of  the  fashion  in  London  not  more  than  four  months  ago,  for  there  is  an 
almost  pathetic  desire  on  the  part  of  the  Blantyre  settlers  to  keep  in  touch 
with  civilisation.^ 

In  the  bare,  open  space  which  so  fittingly  surrounds  this  handsome  church, 
groups  of  mission  boys  are  standing,  respectably  clothed  in  not  badly-fitting 
European  garments  and  wearing  black  felt  hats.  They  are  conversing  in  low 
tones,  a  little  afraid  of  having  their  remarks  overheard  by  the  critical  Europeans. 
They  have  a  slight  tendency  to  giggle,  of  which  they  are  conscious  and  some- 
what ashamed.  A  long  file  of  mission  girls,  modestly  and  becomingly  clad  in 
scarlet  and  white,  crosses  the  square  to  the  native  quarters  of  the  mission  under 
the  guidance  of  a  lady  in  dove-grey  with  a  black  bonnet  and  a  grass-green 
parasol.  By  way  of  quaint  contrast  to  these  reclaimed  guardians  of  the  flock 
is  the  aboriginal  wolf  in  the  persons  of  some  Angoni  carriers  who,  forgetting  or 
ignoring  that  Sunday  was  a  day  of  rest  with  the  European,  are  bringing  up 
loads  from  the  Upper  Shire.  Stark  naked,  all  but  a  tiny  square  of  hide  or 
a  kilt  of  tiger-cat  tails,  with  supple,  lithe  bodies  of  glistening  chocolate  (shiny 
with  perspiration),  with  the  hair  of  their  heads  screwed  up  into  curious  little 
tufts  by  means  of  straw,  they  glide  past  the  church  with  their  burdens,  alter- 
nately shy  and  inquisitive — ready  to  drop  the  burden  and  dart  away  if  a 
European  should  address  them  roughly;  on  the  other  hand  gazing  with  all  their 
eyes  at  the  wonderfully  dressed  white  w^omen,  and  the  obviously  powerful 
"  wafumo  "  2  amongst  the  white  men.  A  smartly-uniformed  negro  policeman  in 
yellow  khaki  and  black  fez  hurries  them  off  the  scene,  shocked  at  their  nudity, 
which  was  his  own  condition  a  year  ago. 

A  good-looking  Sikh  soldier — over  on  a  day's  leave  from  the  neighbouring 
garrison,  or  else  accompanying  some  official  as  orderly — loiters  respectfully  on 
the  fringe  of  the  European  crowd.  He  is  in  undress  and  wears  a  huge  blush- 
rose  turban,  a  loose  snow-white  shirt,  a  fawn-coloured  waistcoat,  white  paijamas 

^  Blantyre  in  fact  is  like  an  Indian  Hill  Station.  -  Chiefs. 


WHAT   THE   COUNTRY   LOOKS    LIKE  29 

(baggy  over  the  hips  but  tight-fitting  round  the  calves)  and  pointed  Persian 
shoes  of  crimson  leather.  His  long,  black  beard  has  been  rolled  up  after  the 
fashion  of  the  Sikhs,  so  that  it  makes  a  tidy  fringe  round  the  jaws  from  ear  to 
ear ;  and  the  black  moustache  is  fiercely  curled. 

We  walk  away  home  over  a  smooth  road  that  is  vinous-red,  as  all  the  earth 
is  hereabout.  First  there  is  an  avenue  of  sombre  cypresses  mixed  with 
shimmering  eucalyptus  ;  then  the  road  will  be  bordered  by  bananas  or  by  the 
gardens  of  Europeans'  houses,  with  neat  fences.  In  all  directions  other  roads 
branch  off,  and  above  the  greenery  of  Indian  corn  patches,  of  banana-groves,^ 
of  plantations  of  conifers,  acacias,  and  eucalyptus,  or  clumps  of  Misuko  trees, 
can  be  seen  the  house-roofs  of  grey  corrugated  iron,  or  rose-pink,  where  that 
iron  has  been  coloured  with  anti-corrosive  paint. 

Bright  moonlight.  In  a  Hyphaene  palm  forest.  Out  of  the  shadow  of  the 
trees  it  is  almost  as  bright  as  day,  every  detail  can  be  seen  in  the  dry  grass — 
even  the  colours  of  some  few  flowers  blooming  in  spite  of  the  dry  weather. 
The  effect  is  that  of  a  photograph — a  little  too  much  devoid  of  half-tones,  being 
sharply  divided  into  bright  lights,  full  of  minute  detail  and  deep  grey  shadows,, 
like  blots,  in  which  no  detail  can  be  descried.  It  is  clear  that  this  forest  lies  far 
from  the  haunts  of  man,  for  all  the  palm  stems  still  retain  the  jagged  stems  of 
withered  fronds.  This  gives  them  an  untidy  and  forbidding  aspect ;  for  these 
grey  mid-ribs  stick  out  at  an  angle  of  forty  degrees  from  the  main  trunk.  The 
faded  leaf  filaments  have  long  since  disappeared  from  the  extremities  of  the 
dead  fronds  which  themselves  are  so  dry  and  so  lightly  attached  to  the  stem 
that  a  few  blows  from  a  stout  pole  would  knock  them  off  and  the  palm  trunk 
would  be  left  bare  and  smooth.  This  is  the  condition  of  almost  all  palms  near 
a  native  village  in  Africa  because  the  natives  climb  them  for  the  fruit,  or  more 
often  for  the  sap  which  they  tap  at  the  summit  and  make  into  a  fermented 
drink.  Therefore  whenever  in  tropical  Africa  you  find  palms  in  a  forest 
retaining  their  old  fronds  from  the  ground  upwards  you  may  know  that 
indigenous  man  is  nowhere  near. 

Each  palm  is  surmounted  by  a  graceful  crown  of  fan-shaped  leaves  in  an 
almost  symmetrical  oval  mass,  radiating  from  the  summit  as  from  a  centre. 
The  fruit  which  is  clustered  thickly  on  racemes  is — seen  by  daylight — a  bright 
chestnut  brown  and  the  size  of  a  Jaffa  orange.  This  brown  husk  covering  an 
ivory  nut  is  faintly  sweet  to  the  taste  and  is  adored  by  elephants.  It  is  on  that 
account  that  I  have  brought  you  here  to  see  with  the  eye  of  the  spirit  a  herd 
of  these  survivors  of  past  geological  epochs. 

Somehow  or  other,  it  seems  more  fitting  that  we  should  see  the  wild  elephant 
by  moonlight  at  the  present  day.  He  is  like  a  ghost  revisiting  the  glimpses  of 
the  moon — this  huge  grey  bulk,  wrinkled  even  in  babyhood,  with  his  monstrous 
nose,  his  monstrous  ears  and  his  extravagant  incisor  teeth. 

There!  I  have  hypnotised  you, and  having  suggested  the  idea  of  "elephants" 
you  declare  that  you  really  begin  to  see  huge  forms  assuming  definite  outline 
and  chiaro-scuro  from  out  of  the  shadows  of  the  palms.  Now  you  hear  the 
noise  they  make — an  occasional  reverberating  rattle  through  the  proboscis  as 
they  examine  objects  on  the  ground  half  seriously,  half  playfully ;  and  the 
swishing  they  make  as  they  pass  through  the  herbage ;  or  the  rustle  of  branches 
which  are  being  plucked  to  be  eaten.  But  they  are  chiefly  bent  on  the  ginger- 
bread nuts  of  the  palms  and  to  attain  this,  where  they  hang  out  of  reach,  they 
will  pause  occasionally  to  butt  the  palm  trees  with  their  flattened  foreheads. 


30  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

The  dried  stems  and  the  dead  fronds  crash  down  before  this  jarring  blow.  If 
the  fruit  does  not  fall  and  the  tree  is  not  tilted  over  at  an  angle  [its  crown  within 
reach  of  the  animal's  trunk],  then  the  great  beast  will  either  strive  to  drag  it 
down  with  his  proboscis  or  to  kneel  and  uproot  it  with  his  tusks  The  elephants 
pause  every  now  and  then  in  their  feasting,  the  mothers  to  suckle  the  little  ones 
from  the  two  great  paps  between  the  fore-legs,  a  huge  bull  to  caress  a  young 
female  amorously  with  his  twining  trun<c,  or  the  childless  cows  to  make 
semblance  of  fighting,  and  the  half-grown  young  to  chase  each  other  with  shrill 
trumpetings. 

But  the  moon  is  dropping  over  to  the  west.  You  did  not  think  the  moon- 
light could  be  exceeded  in  brightness.  Yet  in  the  advent  of  d^y  it  is  only  after 
all  a  betterment  of  night.  Before  the  first  pale  pink  light  of  early  dawn  the 
moonlight  seems  an  unreality.  In  a  few  minutes  the  moon  is  no  more  luminous 
than  a  round  of  dirty  paper  and  with  the  yellow  radiance  of  day  the  elephants 
cease  their  gambollings  and  feasting,  form  into  line,  and  swing  into  one  of  those 
long  marches  which  will  carry  them  over  sixty  miles  of  forest,  plain  and 
mountain  to  the  next  halting  place  in  their  seeming-purposeful  journey. 

There  has  been  a  war.  The  black  man  trained  and  taught  by  the  Arab  has 
been  fighting  the  black  man  officered  and  directed  by  the  European  and,  not 
unnaturally,  has  got  the  worst  of  it.  But  the  fight  has  been  a  stiff  one.  We 
have  had  to  take  that  walled  town  in  the  red  plain,  behind  which  are  gleams  of 
water  and  stretches  of  green  swamp  interspersed  with  clumps  of  raphia  palms. 
There  has  been  the  preliminary  bombardment,  the  straw  huts  within  the  red 
walls  have  gone  up  in  orange  flame  and  mighty  columns  of  smoke  [transparent 
black  and  opaque  yellow  according  to  the  material  burning]  into  the  heavens 
above  and  are  now  falling  in  a  gentle  rain  of  black  wisps.  Here  and  there 
a  barrel  of  gunpowder  has  exploded,  or  the  bursting  of  a  shell  has  elicited 
a  terrible  cry  from  an  otherwise  stolid,  silent  enemy.  Then  there  has  been  the 
first  charge  up  to  the  clay  walls  and  the  inevitable  casualties  from  the  enemy's 
fusillade  directed  through  the  loop-holes.  A  white  officer  has  fallen  forward  on 
hi3  face,  revolver  in  hand,  biting  the  dust  literally.  He  is  not  dead,  he  announces 
cheerfully,  "  Only  my  arm  smashed,  I  think  " ;  but  a  Sikh  who  is  attempting  to 
arrange  for  his  transport  to  the  doctor  out  of  the  range  of  the  enemy's  fire,  is 
shot  through  the  heart,  and  with  the  last  dying  instinct  swerves  his  fall  to  avoid 
falling  on  the  officer's  shattered  arm.  The  bulk  of  the  small  force  of  white 
men,  Sikhs,  and  negro  soldiers  in  khaki  uniforms  and  black  fezzes,  has  either 
scaled  the  clay  rampart  or  has  shattered  a  gateway  and  burst  into  the  strong- 
hold, and  the  officer  can  now  swoon  away  comfortably  without  much  risk  of 
dying,  as  the  doctor  can  be  seen  in  the  distance  hurrying  up  his  little  band 
of  native  hospital  assistants  and  a  couple  of  hammocks  for  the  transport 
of  wounded  men.  A  tremendous  rattle  of  musketry  is  going  on.  The  native 
guns  go  off  seldom  now,  but  make  a  loud  reverberating  boom  from  the  quantity 
of  powder  with  which  they  are  charged ;  the  Snider  rifles,  on  the  other  hand, 
give  short  cracks.  From  some  of  the  unburnt  housetops  in  the  more  distant 
part  of  the  town  the  enemy  is  still  keeping  up  a  dropping  fire,  and  in  fact  as  we 
stand  in  imagination  over  the  wounded  officer  we  can  hear  overhead  that  curious 
*'  ping,"  that  singing  sound  of  bullets  travelling  high  above  our  heads.  We  are 
not  out  of  but  under  the  enemy's  range.  Gradually  the  gun  fire  ceases,  though 
every  now  and  then  a  few  more  cracking  shots  will  be  heard,  until  the  victory  is 
complete  and  absolute,  and  the  place  is  wholly  taken. 


WHAT   THE    COUNTRY    LOOKS    LIKE  31 

When  there  is  no  longer  any  doubt  about  the  result  the  native  allies,  who 
have  hung  on  the  outskirt3  of  the  white  man's  camp,  dash  forward  in  skirmish- 
ing order  to  cut  off  the  fugitives.  They  are  a  motley  crowd,  these  "  friendlies," 
armed  with  flint-locks,  muzzle-loading  guns,  old  pistols,  or  with  spear  and 
assegai,  bow  and  arrow.  It  would  be  difficult  to  tell  them  from  the  opposing 
force — for  the  auxiliaries  of  the  Arab  are  often  own  brothers  to  the  white  man's 
helpers — but  that  each  "  friendly  "  has  a  large  piece  of  white  cloth  tied  round 
the  upper  part  of  his  left  arm.  The  chief  efforts  of  the  Europeans  and  the 
Sikhs  are  now  directed  towards  restraining  these  inconvenient  allies  who  would 
seek  to  perpetrate  on  the  flying  enemy,  or  on  his  wounded,  the  same  barbarities 
that  the  Arabs  and  their  followers  recently  inflicted  on  the  tribes  allied  with  the 
European — which  barbarities  are  the  cause  of  the  white  man's  presence  here 
to-day  with  a  country  at  his  back  to  help  him. 

War  is  always  horrible,  even  if  it  be  waged  in  a  righteous  cause,  and 
nowhere  so  horrible  as  in  savage  Africa.  Let  us,  as  a  useful  lesson,  pick  our 
way  through  this  bombarded  town  as  far  as  the  heat  of  the  still  burning  houses 
will  permit.  Here  amongst  the  black  ashes  of  a  hut  is  a  poor,  domestic  cat 
frizzled  into  a  ghastly  mummy  and  close  to  her  are  numerous  broiled  rats :  all 
alike  were  unable  to  escape  in  time  from  the  burning  building.  High  above 
our  heads— for  some  reason  I  think  the  saddest  sight  of  all — are  the  homeless 
pigeons,  circling  round  and  round  unable  to  settle  on  the  burning  roof  trees, 
dazed  and  stupefied  with  the  smoke  and  occasionally  falling  down  into  the 
flames  to  die.  Shrieking  fowls  are  flying  in  all  directions  and  after  them 
excited  *'  friendlies  "  or  porters  of  the  expedition  in  pursuit,  heedless  of  the  hot 
ashes  under  foot.  Our  first  dead  body :  a  negro  soldier  of  the  Administration, 
neatly  clad,  spick  and  span  in  spite  of  his  scramble  over  the  eight-foot  wall. 
Soon  after  entering  the  town  he  must  have  been  shot  dead  and  he  has  fallen 
on  his  back  still  grasping  his  rifle  and,  strange  to  say,  with  a  faint  smile  of 
triumph  and  no  look  of  pain  whatever  on  the  face.  A  little  distance  beyond 
him  lies  a  wretched  savage  who  has  boen  killed  by  a  shell.  His  stomach  has 
been  torn  out  and  his  head  split  in  two.  Here  and  there  a  black  arm  or  leg 
or  a  dead  face  with  wide-open  eyes  may  be  descried  amongst  the  debris  of  the 
huts,  indicating  the  presence  of  others  who  have  fallen  in  the  fight.  The  doctor 
will  presently  come  and  search  the  shattered  huts  in  case  there  may  be  any 
wounded  and  living  requiring  attention. 

We  have  now  reached  the  centremost  stronghold  of  the  town,  and  it  is  seen 
that  great  as  the  conflagration  appeared  from  the  outside  it  has  destroyed 
but  a  small  portion  of  the  town.  The  Sikhs  are  now  busily  engaged  in 
isolating  the  burning  huts  and  putting  out  the  fire.  The  officers  have  been 
examining  the  large  houses  around  the  Sultan's  compound  and  have  brought 
to  light  an  extraordinary  number  of  wretched  women  and  children  most  of 
them  slaves — the  adults  both  men  and  women — still  weighted  with  the  slave 
stick.  ^ 

Many  of  these  slaves  are  entirely  naked  and  utterly  barbarous,  and  all  are 
whimpering,  not  with  joy  at  the  prospect  of  freedom  but  in  the  imminent  dread 
that  they  will  be  immediately  killed  and  eaten  by  the  white  men,  that  being  the 
idea  implanted  in  their  minds  by  the  Arab.     A  little  apart  from  the  great  mass 

*  The  slave  slick  is  usually  a  young  tree  of  heavy  wood  barked  and  all  the  branches  removed  with 
the  exception  of  a  bifurcation  at  the  end.  Into  this  bifurcation  the  slave's  neck  is  thrust  and  the  two  ends 
of  the  stick  are  united  by  an  iron  band  at  the  back  of  his  neck  so  that  this  heavy  log  is  attached  to  the 
front  of  the  man's  body.     In  this  condition  he  is  quite  unable  to  run  away. 


32 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


of  still  fettered  slaves  is  an  Arab  prisoner,  his  hands  tied  behind  his  back, 
kneeling  or  reclining  with  his  ankles  also  fastened.  There  is  a  slight  wound  on 
his  forehead;  his  face  bears  the  expression  of  a  caged  wolf,  his  pale  yellow  skin 
is  livid  with  pain,  fear,  and  hatred.  He  has  lost  his  round,  white  cap  or  fez, 
or  turban,  and  his  bald  head  looks  mean  and  out  of  keeping  with  his  careful 
clothes,  which  though  soiled  in  warfare  are  still' neat  and  presentable.  Round 
his  neck  in  a  dirty  cloth  bag  hangs  a  copy  of  the  Koran. 

From  such  a  scene  as  this  I  walked  away  once  over  the  battlefield.  The 
fight  was  ended,  but  we  were  only  just  starting  to  look  for  the  wounded.  It  was 
early  afternoon;  a  lovely  day,  bright  sunshine,  pale  blue  sky.  A  cool  breeze 
had  blown  away  the  smoke;  apart  from  the  scene  of  the  chief  struggle  in  the 
captured  town  there  was  no  indication  that  war  w^as  being  waged.  In  a  secluded 
part  of  the  precincts  amid  the  scattered  vegetation  of  the  village  outskirts 
I  suddenly  came  across  the  body  of  a  fine-looking  Angoni,  not  many  minutes 
dead.  He  might  have  been  fighting  on  our  side;  he  might  have  been  hired  by 
the  Arabs  as  one  of  their  raiders,  but  someone  had  killed  him  with  a  bullet 
through  the  head  and  he  had  fallen  in  his  tracks,  in  all  his  panoply  of  war, 
scarcely  conscious  of  the  object  for  which  he  fought.  His  right  hand  still 
grasped  the  stabbing  spear,  his  left  still  held  the  ox-hide  shield.  His  throw- 
ing spears  had  flown  from  his  hand  and  were  scattered  on  the  ground. 
Grimmest  sight  of  all  —  four  vultures  had  already  arrived  on  the'  scene  to 
examine  him.  Two  birds  promenaded  up  and  down  with  a  watchful  eye, 
ready  on  noting  any  sign  of  returning  consciousness  to  take  their  departure; 
another  bird,  somewhat  bolder,  stood  on  one  leg  and  inspected  him  as  might 
a  thoughtful  surgeon;  and  the  fourth  whirled  in  circles  on  out-spread  pinions 
round  the  body,  wishing  to  settle  but  frightened,  in  case  after  all  it  was  a  swoon 
and  not  a  death. 


NIAMKOLO:    SOUTH    END   OF  TANGANYIKA 


CHAPTER     II. 


PHYSICAL    GEOGRAPHY 


IN  looking  through  the  pictures  I  have  tried  to  paint  in  the  preceding 
chapter  to  illustrate  the  scenery  of  British  Central  Africa,  it  will  be  noticed 
that  I  have  made  no  mention  of  any  desert,  of  any  open  sandy  tract  or 
stony  region  devoid  of  vegetation.  The  fact  is  that  so  far  as  my  own  researches 
and  those  of  other  explorers  go,  British  Central  Africa,  east  of  the  Kafue  river, 
holds  no  desert,  no  stretch  of  country  that  is  not  more  or  less  covered  with 
abundant  vegetation.  Here 
and  there  on  the  line  of 
water  parting  between  the 
river  systems  there  may  be  a 
little  harsh  scenery  where  the 
trees  are  poor  and  scrubby  and 
the  plants  grow  in  scattered 
tufts.  But,  take  it  as  a  whole, 
the  eastern  half  of  British 
Central-  Africa  is  very  well 
clothed  with  vegetation,  es- 
pecially in  the  Nyasa  province. 
There  is  nowhere  any  large 
continuous  area  of  thick  tropi- 
cal forest  such  as  one  sees 
in  Western  Africa,  but  in 
favoured  districts  where  the 
soil  is  permeated  with  many 
springs  there  may  be  an 
occasional  patch  of  woodland 
quite  West  African  in  char- 
acter, and  not  only  containing 
oil  palms,  of  the  genus  Elms 
(which  are  usually  thought  to 
be  peculiarly  characteristic  of 
West  Africa),  but  also  not 
a  few  birds  and  mammals 
hitherto  considered  to  be  con- 
fined in  their  range  to  the 
West  African  region.  From 
this  and  other  facts,  I  am 
sometimes  led  to  believe  that 


FOREST  ON    MOUNT   CHOLO,    BRITISH   CENTRAL   AFRICA 


36 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


the  whole  of  Africa  was  once  covered  with  more  or  less  dense  forest,  but  that 
the  climate  in  the  eastern  half  of  the  continent  being  drier  than  in  the  west, 
the  ravages  of  the  bush  fires  started  by  man  have  made  greater  headway 
than  the  reparatory  influence  of  nature.  Only  in  specially  favoured  tracts 
enjoying  exceptional  rainfall  or  else  provided  with  underground  springs  could 
the  forest  remain  always  green  and  full  of  sap  all  the  year  round,  and  thus  be 
able  to  choke  out  the  fire  or,  in  the  wet  season,  to  make  sufficient  growth 
to  repair  the  ravages  sustained  by  bush  fires. 

We  have  therefore  a  well  clothed  country  to  deal  with ;  but  our  abundant 
vegetation  is  undoubtedly  the  cause  of  malarial  fever.     The  essentially  healthy 


THK    MLANJE    RAN(;E,    SEEN    FROM    ZOMBA    AFTER    RAINFALL 

portions  of  tropical  Africa  are  those  like  Somaliland,  much  of  the  Sudan,  a  good 
deal  of  East  Africa  and  all  South  West  Africa,  where  the  rainfall  is  trifling  and 
vegetation  is  mainly  confined  to  the  banks  of  rivers. 

From  observations  made  and  records  kept  by  various  officials  throughout 
the  Protectorate  proper  and  the  adjoining  regions  under  the  sway  of  the  British 
South  Africa  Company  I  should  compute  the  average  rainfall  of  the  greater 
part  of  British  Central  Africa  at  50  inches  per  annum.  But  this  average 
fluctuates  somewhat  (according  to  the  remembrances  of  white  men  longest 
in  the  country  and  the  traditions  of  the  natives) ;  and  I  should  say  that  the 
rainfall  ranged  from  35  inches  in  years  of  extreme  drought  to  60  inches  in  years 
of  excessive  rainfall.  There  arc  certainly  traces  of  a  larger  rainfall  having  once 
prevailed  in  these  countries  in  past  ages.     In  travelling  about  British  Central 


PHYSICAL   GEOGRAPHY 


37 


Africa  one  is  constantly  encountering  marshes  which  even  in  native  tradition  (to 
say  nothing  of  the  geographical  evidence)  were  once  large  lakes.  Again,  there 
are  fertile  depressions  which  are  no  longer  marshes.  Dry  stream  valleys  mark 
the  courses  of  once  powerful  torrents.  This  tendency  towards  decreased 
rainfall  is  undoubtedly  due,  in  my  opinion,  to  the  action  of  man.  It  is  scarcely 
exaggeration  to  say  that  had  British  Central  Africa  been  left  for  another  couple 
of  hundred  years  simply  aqd  solely  to  the  black  man  and  the  black  man  had 
continued  to  exist  without  thought  for  the  future  as  he  does  at  present,  this 
country  would  have  become  treeless,  as  many  portions  of  it  were  becoming 
when  we  embarked  on  its  administration.  Livingstone  describes  in  his  Last 
Journals  the  process  that  is  going  on  in  Manyema,  to  the  west  of  Tanganyika,  a 
country  once  covered  with  the  densest  forest.     The  natives  make  clearings  for 


NATIVE  CLEARING    IN    FOREST  COUNTRY 


their  plantations.  They  cut  down  the  trees,  leave  them  to  dry  and  then  set  fire 
to  them  and  sow  their  crops  amongst  the  fertilising  ashes.  The  same  type  of 
forest  never  grows  up  again.  It  is  replaced  by  grass  or  by  a  growth  of  scrubby 
trees — trees  of  a  kind  which  can  to  a  greater  extent  resist  the  annual  scorching 
of  the  bush  fires.  Besides  this  wanton  destruction  of  forest  for  the  growing  of 
food  crops  (and  as  a  rule  the  native  merely  grows  one  crop  of  corn  and  then 
moves  off  to  another  patch  of  virgin  soil,  leaving  the  old  plantation  to  be 
covered  with  grass  and  weeds)  the  annual  bush  fires  play  a  considerable  and  (if 
unchecked)  an  increasing  part  in  the  disforesting  of  the  country.  Even  where 
large  continuous  areas  of  dense  forest  remain,  so  evergreen  and  full  of  sap  as 
not  to  burn  easily,  each  year  the  raging  fire  will  sere  and  dry  and  kill  those  trees 
which  are  on  the  forest  outskirts.  The  next  year  these  dead  trees  are  consumed 
by  the  fire  which  again  dries  up  and  kills  another  rank  ;  so  year  by  year  the 
forest  diminishes  in  area  to  extinction,  unless  protected  by  happening  to  grow  in 


38 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


a  deep  valley  with  abrupt  cliffs ;    though  this  condition  of  course  restricts  its 
area  of  growth. 

Still,  although  we  must,  I  think,  admit  a  certain  diminution  in  rainfall  owing 
to  the  decrease  of  forest  or  other  causes,  the  rate  at  which  this  decrease  is  going 
on  has  been  exaggerated,  and  as  we  come  to  know  the  country  better  and  our 
records  grow  with  years  of  occupation,  we  see  that  there  are  signs  of  cycles  of 
greater  and  less  rain  dependent  on  atmospheric  conditions  which  we  have  not  yet 
realised.  The  marks  on  the  rocks  show  that  during  some  ages  there  has  been  a 
slight — but  a  very  slight — fall  in  Lake  Nyasa,  varied  by  periods  of  extraordinar>' 
diminution  as  for  instance  some  seventy  years  ago  when  according  to  the  natives' 
traditions  the  north  end  of  the  lake  became  so  shallow  between  Deep  Bay 
and  Amelia  Bay  that  a  chief  and  his  men  waded  across  where  it  is  now  many 
fathoms  deep.  The  highest  watermark  on  these  polished  rocks  is  perhaps  at 
most  six  feet  above  the  present  high  levels  of  the  lake  in  good  rainy  seasons. 
In  years  of  relative  drought  I^ke  Nyasa  may  be  as  much  as  six  feet  below  its 
best  rainy  season  average.  This  means,  of  course,  that  instead  of  there  being 
nine  feet  of  water  on  the  bar  of  the  Shire  where  that  river  quits  the  lake  there 
are  only  three  feet ;  consequently  the  navigability  of  the  Shire  in  the  dry 
season    becomes   much  embarrassed  and  in  these  bad  years  it  can  only   be 

navigated  all  the  year  round 
by  vessels  not  drawing  more 
than  one  and  a  half  feet. 
Yet  we  know  that  in  the  later 
"  fifties  "  and  early  **  sixties  " 
Livingstone  constantly  travelled 
up  and  down  the  Shire  on  a 
vessel  drawing  five  feet.  Even 
in  the  year  1889  the  James 
Steifcnson  which  draws  about 
three  feet  of  water  was  able  to 
navigate  the  Shire  through  al- 
most all  the  year  up  to  the 
Murchison  falls,  while  vessels 
of  five  feet  draught  have  in  like 
manner  navigated  the  Upper 
Shire  above  the  falls.  But  from 
1 891  till  1896  the  Shire  fell 
lower  and  lower  until  at  last 
not  even  Chiromo  was  the  limit 
of  navigation  from  the  sea, 
but  the  Pinda  rapids  near  the 
Zambezi,  while  the  Upper  Shire 
was  practically  divided  into  a 
few  navigable  stretches  with 
very  shallow  water  in  between. 
But  after  the  rainy  season  of 
1895-96  Lake  Nyasa  rose  to  a 
height  which  had  not  been 
reached  for  many  years  and  is  apparently  still  continuing  to  rise.  The  result  is 
that  the  Lower  Shire  is  now  as  navigable  as  it  was  in  Livingstone's  day,  while 
on  the  Upper  Shire  many  of  our  low-lying  stations  are  threatened  by  the  flood 


THE   SHIRE   AT  CHIKWAWA 
JUST   BELOW   THE    MURCHISON    FAILS 


PHYSICAL   GEOGRAPHY 


39 


Similar  fluctuations  are  recorded  of  Tanganyika ;  while  in  the  case  of 
Bangweolo  and  Mweru  fluctuations  of  level  would  also  seem  to  occur  in  cycles. 
The  differences  between  Livingstone's  map  of  Bangweolo  and  the  map  made  by 
Giraud,  the  observations  of  Mr.  Joseph  Thomson,  Mr.  Alfred  Sharpe,  and 
Mr.  Poulett  Weatherley  of  the  same  lake  may  all  be  reconciled  by  this  theory 
of  a  few  feet  fluctuation  in  its  rise  and  fall.  A  few  feet,  more  or  less,  would 
make  the  vast  lake  of  M.  Giraud  the  *'  restricted  open  water  "  of  Livingstone,  and 
the  wide  marsh  with  a  few  open  pools  conjectured  by  Sharpe  and  Thomson.^ 

Of  course  the  average  rainfall  I  have  quoted  must  not  be  taken  as  the 
rainfall  of  each  part  of  British  Central  Africa.  So  far  as  our  observations 
go  some  districts  receive  no  more  than  35  inches  per  annum.^  These  again, 
especially  if  they  contain  mountains  of  great  height  like  Mlanje,  may  record 
a  rainfall  exceeding  100  inches.     A  rainfall  of  60  inches  is  common. 


PINDA   NfOUNTAIN   AND   PINDA   MARSH,    LOWER   SHIRE 

In  consequence  .of  this  fairly  good  supply  of  rain  the  country  is  well  watered 
by  perennial  streams  and  rivers.  At  the  extreme  end  of  the  dry  season  there 
are  streams  which  dry  up  though  water  can  almost  always  be  found  a  short 
distance  below  the  surface.  Still  compared  to  other  parts  of  East  Central 
Africa  the  bulk  of  our  rivers  and  rivulets  may  be  described  as  perennial,  that  is 
to  say  containing  running  water  all  the  year  round.  This  is  not  suprising  as  so 
much  of  the  country  is  mountainous  and  in  these  highlands  the  rain  is  spread  a 
little  less  unequally  over  the  area.  It  may  safely  be  said  that  above  altitudes 
of  4000  feet  (and  a  large  proportion  of  the  land  is  above  4000  feet)  no  month 
passes  without  a  fall  of  rain.  Even  at  Zomba  where  the  altitude  is  only  3000 
feet  it  is  a  rare  occurrence  for  no  rain  to  fall  in  any  given  month. 

But  the  year  is  clearly  divided  into  seasons  of  rain  and  drought.  The 
rainy  season  generally  begins  at  the  end  of  the  month  of  November  and  heavy 
rains  fall  in  December.     There  is  often  a  short  lull  about  Christmas  time,  but 

*  Since  this  passage  was  penned  Mr.  Poulett  Weatherley,  the  explorer  and  sportsman,  has  thoroughly 
circumnavigated  and  mapped  it.     His  observations  concur  rather  with  those  of  Livingstone  than  of  Giraud. 

•  A  small  patch  at  the  south  end  of  Lake  Nyasa  in  one  year  only  received  26*62  inches  of  rain. 


40 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


early  in  January  the  rains  recommence  and  become  torrential,  continuing  to  fall 
very  heavily  until  the  end  of  March.  April  is  a  delightful  month  as  it  is  in 
Europe,  of  alternate  showers  and  sunshine.  A  little  rain  falls  in  May  and  an 
occasional  shower  in  June.  July  is  the  height  of  the  winter — cold,  dry,  spark- 
ling— but  is  never  without  a  few  drops  of  rain.  In  August  there  will  sometimes 
be  a  week's  rain  of  a  decided  character,  especially  in  the  highlands.     A  shower 


PART  OF  THE   FALLS  OF  THE   RUG  AT  ZOA 


or  two  will  follow  in  September.  October  is  quite  the  driest  month  and  in  low- 
lands passes  without  a  drop  of  rain,  though  in  the  highlands  there  may  be  an 
occasional  thunder  storm.  Towards  the  close  of  November  (the  first  half  being 
terribly  hot  and  dry)  the  big  rains  recommence. 

As  regards  temperature  there  is  considerable  variation  also  dependent  on 
altitude.  In  the  valley  of  the  Shire,  on  the  south  coast  of  Lake  Nyasa,  in  the 
great  Luangwa  Valley  and  on  the  Central  Zambezi,  the  heat  is  frightful  just 


I  J  SS  to  4S  iTichet 

l^^^l  ih  to  f>0 

|^meotoT5 

^^^^H  Over 
A   Red  Lviif  thus. 


of  Ripert^  or  tTtdonin^  an  area  of  Latft. 

mdicatrt  the  LixniU  fyf  Kttvi^abHitjt  aU  thf 

yt^ar  ruund  /trr  vt^seis  drawing  ^  f^«t  of 

vmt^r.  I 

'-A  dotted  Ited  Litif  thtit-^^m^m^mindicatet  eo-mi  • 

(fling  during  the  height  0/  the  ravny  t^agmi,  I 


Hit  £diii}iur||L  Gflo^BjjIiLr-Al  lojUtxitf 


PHYSICAL   GEOGRAPHY 


41 


before  the  rains,  registering  occasionally  temperatures  as  high  as  118''  in  the 
shade,  though  at  night  time  falling  to  85^  thus  rendering  it  possible  to  live.  In 
the  height  of  the  rainy  season  the  range  of  the  thermometer  is  not  so  high,  but 
the  heat  is  often  more  unbearable  owing  to  its  greater  uniformity  and  the  moist- 
ness  of  the  temperature.  In  the  months  of  January,  February,  and  March  the 
thermometer  may  be  100**  in  the  daytime  and  only  fall  to  85°  or  90**  at  night. 


A  MOUNTAIN  STREAM  IN  CENTRAL  AFRICA 


But  on  the  high  plateaux  and  amongst  the  mountains — and  these  high  districts 
after  all  represent  the  bulk  of  our  territory — the  temperature  is  at  all  times 
much  more  tolerable.  Such  a  place  as  Zomba^  for  instance  may  be  taken  as  a 
fair  sample  of  the  British  Central  Africa  climate.  Here  during  the  cold  season 
from  May  till  September  we  have  a  day  temperature  not  exceeding  75"  and 
a  night  temperature  ranging  from  40"  to  60°.     In  the  months  of  September, 

^  Altitude  3000  feet  above  the  sea. 


42  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

October,  November  the  day  temperature  may  rise  to  98''  and  fall  at  night  to  65 ^ 
During  the  height  of  the  rainy  season  the  day  temperature  ranges  from  75"  to 
95"  and  the  night  from  65^  to  80". 

In  the  rainy  season  the  wind  usually  blows  from  a  northerly  direction  and  is 
what  one  may  call  a  benign  wind,  being  warm  and  wet.  During  the  dry  season 
the  curbed  south-easter  prevails.  This  hated  wind  comes  up  from  the  South  Pole 
and  is  cold  and  dry.  It  is  the  equivalent  of  our  east  wind  in  England  and 
produces  much  the  same  effects  on  health  when  it  blows  strongly.  In  the 
excessively  dry  months  of  September,  October,  and  November  this  wind  blow- 
ing across  large  areas  of  burnt  plain — where  the  bush  fires  have  destroyed  the 
vegetation  and  the  sun  has  baked  the  soil — has  a  bad  effect  on  cultivated  crops. 
It  seres  the  leaves  and  causes  many  delicate  plants  to  wither.  Happily  it  soon 
loses  its  effect  by  passing  over  the  mountains  which  are  always  attended  by 
watery  vapour.  When  the  south  wind  prevails  there  is  a  curious  mistiness  in 
the  atmosphere.  This  is  partly  caused  by  the  diffused  smoke  of  the  bush  fires, 
but  it  is  also  due  to  some  other  causes  not  yet  explained.  At  this  time  of  the 
year  mists  often  prevail  to  a  striking  extent  in  the  early  morning.  These  are 
similar  to  the  "  smokes  "  which  are  so  marked  a  feature  in  the  dry  season  on  the 


FIRST  VIEW   OF   MLANJE   MOUNTAIN    FROM   LOWER   SHIRE 

West  Coast  of  Africa.  One  understands  how  these  dense  fogs  occur  on  any 
large  river  or  lake,  for  instance.  The  temperature  of  the  water  is  much  higher 
than  that  of  the  air  in  the  early  morning,  and  so  one  may  see  clouds  and  vapour 
rising  from  "the  water  surface,  just  as  though  it  were  boiling,  and  these  gradually 
form  low  dense  fogs  which,  minus  the  addition  of  smoke,  are  quite  as  thick  as 
those  we  are  accustomed  to  in  the  Thames  Valley,  which  no  doubt  arise  from 
the  same  cause. 

One  of  the  accompanying  maps  will  give  some  idea  of  the  distribution  of 
the  rainfall,  and  the  names,  length,  and  navigability  of  the  more  important 
streams.  It  might  be  mentioned  that  almost  all  the  streams  given  in  this  map 
are  perennial  as  far  as  our  knowledge  of  them  goes.  Another  map  gives  the 
relative  height  of  the  land  and  the  names  and  altitudes  of  the  principal 
mountain  ranges.  Only  a  few  of  these  latter  require  special  mention.  So  far 
as  we  yet  know  the  highest  mountain  in  British  Central  Africa  is  Mlanje,  at  its 
extreme  south-eastern  corner.  Mlanje  consists  of  a  huge  plateau  from  which 
again  rise  mountain  peaks  representing  ancient  volcanoes.  It  reaches  at  its 
highest  point  an  altitude  of  9683  feet.  The  summit  was  scaled  by  Mr  Sharpe 
and  Captain  Manning  in  1895.  Much  of  the  up-reared  mass,  which  is  about 
200  square  miles  in  area,  exceeds  an  altitude  of  6000  feet  and  is  eminently 
habitable.     The  Shire  Highlands — or  the  district  between  the  Ruo,  the  Shire 


ON    Till-:    TIMER    Rl'(^ 


PHYSICAL   GEOGRAPHY  45 

and  Lake  Chilwa— are  a  mass  of  beautiful  hills  ranging  from  3000  feet  to 
nearly  7000  feet  in  height.  The  highest  mountain  in  the  Shire  Highlands 
is  Mount  Zomba.  This  is  a  smaller  mass  than  Mlanje  but  very  similar  to  it 
in  shape  and  arrangement.  Like  Mlanje  it  is  a  large  plateau  but  its  higher 
peaks  are  rather  the  up-reared  edges  of  the  plateau  (like  the  rim  of  a  dish) 
than  independent  cones  that  rise  from  the  centre.  The  highest  point  of 
Zomba  is  computed  to  attain  an  altitude  of  6900  odd  feet.  It  may  turn  out 
on  more  careful  investigation  to  actually  reach  7000  feet.  In  Southern 
Angoniland,  in  the  south-western  portion  of  the  Protectorate,  Mount  Dedza 
is  computed  at  7000  feet  and  other  high  mountains  like  Chongoni  are  not  far 
off  in  altitude.  In  the  mountains  to  the  west  of  Lake  Nyasa  the  higher  peaks 
of  the  lofty  Nyika  plateau  reach  to  over  8000  feet  in  height.  The  average 
altitude  of  the  Nyika  plateau  is  7000  feet.  One  or  two  points  on  the  Nyasa- 
Tanganyika  plateau  may  touch  7000  feet  and  likewise  in  the  northern  part 
of  the  Muchinga  (Lukinga)  mountains  west  of  the  river  Luangwa.     Elsewhere 


THE   MLANJE   RANC.E    FROM   THE  TUCHILA    PLAIN 


in  British  Central  Africa,  in  the  basin  of  the  Kafue  and  Lunsefwa  rivers,  and 
to  the  west  of  Lake  Bangweolo  there  is  probably  no  greater  altitude  than 
6000  feet. 

Although  they  are  not  in  British  territory  and  therefore  not  within  the 
scope  of  this  book,  a  passing  mention  should  be  made  of  the  Livingstone 
Mountains  which  border  the  north-east  coast  of  Lake  Nyasa  and  extend 
under  various  names  to  the  south  end  of  Lake  Rukwa.  They  reach  to 
altitudes  which  possibly  slightly  exceed  that  of  Mlanje  and  come  very  near 
to   10,000  feet. 

This  is  pre-eminently  a  country  of  great  lakes.  Lake  Tanganyika  is  over  400 
miles  in  length  with  a  breadth  varying  from  60  to  30  miles.  Lake  Nyasa  is  360 
miles  long  with  a  greatest  breadth  of  40  miles  and  a  least  breadth  of  15.  Lake 
Bangweolo^  is  of  such  uncertain  area  that  it  is  useless  to  give  any  guess  at  the 

*  The  name  of  Bangweolo  is  quite  unknown  to  the  natives,  and  must  have  l)een  given  by 
Livingstone  under  some  misapprehension.  By  the  surrounding  peoples  it  is  known  as  "  Lieml)a,"  or 
"  M\*eru,"  or  "Nyanja":  more  often  as  **Mweru."  Mr.  Alfred  Shari)e  conjectures  that  the  name 
'*  Bangweolo"  may  have  arisen  from  the  combination  of  "  Pa-mweru '  or  "  Pa-mwelu "'  (*'r'*  and 
**l**  are  interchangeable  in  most  African  dialects)  meaning  "at  Mweru."  The  natives  are  very  much 
addicted  to  prefixing  the  locative  prefix   "Pa"    to   names   of  places.     In   the  same   way   Livingstone 


46 


BRITISH    CENTRAL    AFRICA 


mileage  of  its  open  surface  but  it  must  contain  at  least  1500  square  miles  of 
navigable  water.  Lake  Mweru  is  about  68  miles  long  by  24  broad.  Lake 
Chilwa  in  the  extreme  south-east  is  also  of  varying  extent  according  to  the 
rainy  season  or  dry  season ;  but  it  is  as  a  rule  about  50  miles  long  by  1 5 
broad.  The  salt  lake  Mweru  which  lies  between  the  great  Mweru  Lake  and 
Tanganyika  is  chiefly  a  marsh  with  a  few  open  pools  about  35  miles  long 
by  20  broad.  North  of  Lake  Chilwa  and  separated  from  it  by  only  a  few 
miles  of  sandy  ridge  is  Lake  Chiuta,  the  source  of  the  river  Lujenda. 
Chiuta  is  about  40  miles  long  with  a  breadth  which  nowhere  exceeds  eight 
miles  and  sometimes  shrinks  to  two.     In  the  Lubisa  country  to  the  west  of  the 


CHAMBI    PKAK,    MLANJK 

Luangwa  there  is  a  small  mountain  lakelet  about  40  square  miles  in  area,  which 
was  called  Lake  Moir  by  its  discoverer,  Mr.  Joseph  Thomson.  Lastly,  may  be 
mentioned  Lake  Malombe  through  which  the  Upper, Shire  flows.  This  lake  had 
an  area  in  1893  of  about  100  square  miles ;  but  in  1894  and  in  the  succeeding 
years  a  large  sand  island  grew  up  in  the  centre  which  became  covered  with  reeds, 
and  the  lake  as  I  last  saw  it  was  little  more  than  a  broad  channel  of  the  Shire 
divided  by  an  enormous,  flat,  reed-covered  island  from  a  narrower  channel  or 
back-water  to  the  west.  There  is  every  sign  that  in  spite  of  the  great  rise  in 
Lake  Nyasa  this  island  will  hold  its  own.    We  shall  then  witness  the  remarkable 

himself  called  the  lakelet  Malombe,  *'  Pa-Mal.jmbe."  The  root  "  -<•///,"  or  ''  -<?/«,"  is  a  very  old 
Bantu  word  for  '*open  water.*'  With  a  different  prefix  it  reappears  far  to  the  North  as  '*  Rueru," 
one  of  the  native  names  of  the  Albert  Nyanza.  It  would  seem  to  be  connected  wirh  the  root 
*' white."  It  might  be  mentioned,  however,  that  Mr.  Poulett  VVeaiherley  appears  lo  have  heard  the  name 
**  Bangweulu  "  in  use. 


rEIES 


^ 


^.I  G  BfcJliirilircne^ 


PHYSICAL    GEOGRAPHY  47 

fact  that  in  a  little  more  than  a  year  a  lake  which  has  existed  beyond  the 
memory  of  man  has  suddenly  been  resolved  into  a  sandy  marsh  and  a  broad 
river  channel. 

I  think  I  have  enumerated  all  the  known  permanent  lakes  of  the  country, 
though  I  should  not  be  surprised  if  travellers  who  read  this  book  came  forward 
and  said,  "  You  have  forgotten  such  and  such  a  lake  in  the  Chambezi  Valley,  or 
the  small  lakelet  between  Chilwa  and  Mlanje,  or  the  great  sheet  of  open  water 
on  the  Upper  Tuchila,  or  such  and  such  a  lake  in  the  Luangwa  Basin."  None 
of  these  sheets  of  water,  however,  as  far  as  is  yet  known;  have  any  permanent 
existence.  They  are  only  the  creation  of  the  rainy  season  floods.  .  Seen  at  that 
time,  of  course,  their  existence  is  recorded  ;  in  the  dry  season  they  would  be 
found  either  not  to  exist  at  all  or  to  be  confined  to  a  patch  of  marsh.  There 
were  lakes  at  one  time,  undoubtedly,  near  the  junction  of  the  Ruo  and  the  Shire 
(the  Elephant  Marsh)  and  at  the  junction  of  the  Shire  and  Zambezi  (Morambala 
Marsh) ;  but  in  the  course  of  time  the  alluvium  of  the  rivers,  together,  even, 


THE   LIKUBULA   (JORGE,    MLANJE 

with  a  slight  upheaval  of  the  ground,  or  more  probably  still  the  deeper  cutting 
of  the  river-channel  have  turned  these  former  lakes  into  marshes  or  vast  extents 
of  dry  alluvial  soil.  In  like  manner  Nyasa  was  evidently  united  not  many 
centuries  ago  with  Lake  Malombe ;  and  it  may  be,  also,  that  Lake  Chilwa  was 
joined  with  Lake  Chiuta  and  was  then  the  head  waters  of  the  great  Lujenda- 
Ruvuma  river.  Much  of  the  decrease  in  volume  of  the  great  lakes  must  be 
attributed  to  a  slow  and  slight  process  of  upheaval  which  has  caused  their 
waters  to  more  rapidly  drain  away  ;  but  the  disappearance  of  these  shallow  lakes 
along  the  courses  of  the  rivers  is  chiefly  due  to  the  rivers  having  in  course  of 
time  cut  their  channels  deeper,  so  that  the  lakes  which  formerly  represented 
their  overflow  have  their  bottoms  now  removed  even  above  flood  limit. 

The  geology  of  British  Central  Africa  would  appear  to  be  relatively  simple. 
The  commonest  formation,  perhaps,  is  a  mixture  of  metamorphic  rocks, 
grauwacke,  clay -slates,  gneiss  and  schists.  This  prevails  over  much  of  the 
country  lying  between  the  west  of  Lake  Nyasa  and  the  Luapula  River,  on  the 
Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  in  parts  of  the  Shire  Highlands,  and  north  of  the 
Zambezi.     The  valleys  of  the  great  and  sluggish  rivers,  however,  (the  Shire, 


48 


BRITISH    CENTRAL    AFRICA 


the  Chambezi,  the  Luangwa)  contain  an  upper  stratum  of  alluvial  deposit  where 
the  valleys  are  broad  and  the  rocks  do  not  strike  through.  The  principal 
mountain  ranges  are  mostly  granite ;  and  granite  with  its  upper  layers  often 
rotten  and  even  turned  into  red  ferruginous  clay  constitutes  the  formation  of 
much  of  the  Shire  Highlands.  There  is  an  outcrop  of  sandstone  on  the  north- 
west and  north-east  coasts  of  Lake  Nyasa  (Mount  Waller  and  the  hills  of 
Amelia  Bay  are  examples) ;  a  little  way  back  from  the  lake  shore  at  the  north 
end  (in  German  territory) ;  to  the  west  of  the  River  Shire  near  the  Portuguese 
frontier ;  at  the  south  end  of  Tanganyika ;  and  all  round  about  Lake  Mweru 
and  in  the  countries  adjoining  the  River  Luapula.  Volcanic  lavas  and  tuffs  are 
present  on  parts  of  the  upper  plateau  of  Mlanje  and  at  the  north  end  of  Lake 


ON    LAKE   NYASA 


N)'asa.  There  is  a  good  deal  of  quartz  in  the  mountains  to  the  west  of  Lake 
Nyasa,  especially  to  the  south-west,  and  in  parts  of  the  Shire  Highlands  (such 
as  Mlanje).  The  low  flat  hills  in  the  Upper  Shire  district  are  composed  of 
marble  which  yields  a  very  good  building  lime.  Much  the  same  lime  is  also 
obtained  from  places  on  the  west  coast  of  Lake  Nyasa,  where  there  must  be 
likewise  a  kind  of  limestone  amongst  the  low  hills  near  the  lake  shore.  The 
surface  of  much  of  the  low-lying  country  on  the  banks  of  the  Upper  Shire  is 
little  else  than  a  deposit  of  the  shells  of  molluscs  mixed  with  black  vegetable 
earth. 

This  black  "  cotton  "  soil,  which  is  usually  extremely  rich  for  cultivation,  and 
is  so  much  valued  in  India,  is  found  plentifully  in  many  stream  valleys  and 
depressions,  especially  in  the  Nyasaland  provinces,  and  is  classed  by  me  as 
alluvium. 

On  the  east  coast  of  Lake  Nyasa,  a  few  miles  inland  from  Msumbo  and 
Chisanga  (Stations  of  the  Universities  Mission),  a  soap  stone  has  been  found  by 


PHYSICAL   GEOGRAPHY 


49 


Commander  Cullen,  R.N.R.,^  who  had  noticed  that  the  natives  made  use  of  this 
stone  in  building  the  mission  church  at  Chisanga.  This  soap  stone,  according  to 
Commander  Cullen,  is  the  same  as  that  found  in  parts  of  Europe  and  used  as  a 
lubricant  packing  by  engineers.  When  prepared  for  this  purpose  it  is  worth  £S 
a  ton.  It  is  qaite  easily  worked,  can  be  cut  with  a  knife,  and  is  not  much — if  at 
all — affected  by  weather. 

In  the  sandstone  formation  of  the  West  Shire  district  and  round  the  northern 
half  of  Lake  Nyasa,  coal  is  found.     On  the  surface  it  is  a  little  shaley,  but  there 


THE   LICHENYA    RIVER,    MLANJE 

is  evidence  that  good  combustible  coal  lies  underneath.  In  the  Marimba  and 
Central  Angoniland  districts,  also  in  the  mountains  of  the  West  Nyasa  coast 
region,  and  in  parts  of  the  Shire  Highlands,  a  gold-bearing  quartz  exists.- 
Alluvial  gold  is  reported  to  exist  on  the  Northern  Angoni  plateau,  in  the  West 
Nyasa  district,  and  at  the  head-waters  of  the  River  Bua  (Central  Angoniland), 
just  within  the  Protectorate.  In  the  valleys  of  the  rivers  flowing  south  to  the 
Zambezi  (in  Mpezeni's  country)  gold  really  does  exist,  and  was  worked  at 
Misale  by  the  half-caste  Portuguese  in  the  last,  and  in  part  of  the  present 
century.     Although  there  are  many  reports  that  payable  gold  has  been  found  in 

^  Senior  Naval  Officer  in  the  service  of  the  B.C.  A.  Administration. 

^  Between  Nkata  Bay  and  Sisya.     The  reef  here  is  said  to  liave  slate  walls. 


5° 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


the  rock,  which  only  needs  the  requisite  machinery  to  crush  out,  at  anything 
from  lO  dwts.  to  i  oz.  per  ton,  no  conclusive  evidence  has  yet  been  offered  to 
support  these  statements  by  specimens  which  can  be  submitted  to  analysis.  In 
1889,  however,  long  before  Europeans  turned  their  eyes  in  this  direction,  the  old 
Jumbe  of  Kotakota  told  me  that  the  quartz  in  his  country  contained  gold,  and 


THE  SHIRE   HIGHLANDS 


soon  afterwards  he  entered  into  an  agreement  with  the  African  Lakes  Company 
that  this  gold  should  be  worked.  The  Lakes  Company  turned  over  their 
agreement  to  the  British  South  Africa  Company,  on  whose  account  prospectors 
have  entered  the  Marimba  district. 

Specimens  of  something  very  like  cinnabar  were  once  submitted  to  Mr. 
Sharpe  and  myself  for  examination.  They  came  from  the  country  to  the  west 
of  the  Lower  Shire.  We  attempted  an  analysis  but  although  there  seemed  to 
be  traces  of  mercury  in  the  pan  we  could  not  authoritatively  state  that  the 


PHYSICAL   GEOGRAPHY  51 

substance  was  cinnabar.  Since  that  time  no  further  specimens  have  reached  us. 
It  is  beyond  dispute  that  the  country  of  Katanga  is  rich  in  copper  and  also 
possesses  gold.  The  copper  of  Katanga,  however,  is  widely  spread  in  a  currency 
of  ingots  over  South  Central  Africa.  Malachite  also  comes  from  that  region. 
There  is  no  reason  why  this  copper  should  not  also  be  found  in  the  same 
formation  to  the  east  of  the  river  Luapula  and  Lake  Mweru. 

Specimens  of  lead  and  of  graphite  have  been  shown  to  me,  but  I  was 
unable  to  identify  the  districts  from  which  they  were  obtained,  though  I 
understood  that  some  specimens  of  graphite  came  from  the  hills  to  the  west 
of  the  Lower  Shire. 

Iron  ore  is  nearly  everywhere  abundant.  Excellent  haematite  iron  comes 
from  the  Upper  Shire  district.  We  have  actually  used  some  of  this  iron — have 
had  it  smelted  and  worked  by  native  blacksmiths — for  making  the  parts  of  a 
gun  and  such  other  relatively  simple  things  which  were  within  the  scope  of 
native  blacksmiths  or  Sikh  artizans. 

Garnets  are  found  in  the  stream  valleys  of  Mlanje.  On  the  same  mountain 
beautiful  quartz  crystals  are  met  with  and  persons  seeing  them  for  the  first 
time  are  often  deluded  into  the  belief  that  they  have  obtained  diamonds.  No 
trace  of  the  blue  diamond  clay  has  ever  yet  been  met  with  in  Central  Africa.^ 

There  are  no  deposits  of  rock-salt,  so  far  as  I  am  aware,  but  salt  is  obtained 
from  the  brackish  marsh  called  by  the  name  of  Mweru  which  lies  between  the 
great  lake  Mweru  and  Tanganyika ;  also  from  the  marsh  country  in  the  West 
Shire  district,  and  from  the  brackish  Lake  Chilwa.^ 

But  salt  is  also  obtained  both  good  and  abundant — though  rather  dark  in 
colour — from  the  ashes  of  grasses  and  other  plants  growing  on  the  mountain 
plateaux  and  in  the  vicinity  of  rivers  and  lakes.  On  the  whole,  in  one  way  or 
another  British  Central  Africa  may  be  considered  to  be  well  supplied  with  salt 
manufactured  by  the  natives,  which  is  a  favourite  article  of  commerce  and  is 
even  a  good  deal  used  by  Europeans,  who  in  their  cooking,  if  not  on  their  tables, 
at  any  rate  in  their  kitchens,  use  it  in  preference  to  the  imported  article. 

'  Commander  Cullen  supplies  the  following  note:— ** In  the  upper  waters  of  the  Lintipe  river 
^Central  Angoniland)  the  formation  is  the  same  as  that  of  the  Vaal  River  Valley :  and  as  garnets  and 
crystals  are  found  in  it,  if  it  were  properly  worked  it  seems  probable  it  might  prove  diamondiferous. " 

^  Mr.  Sharpe  describes  as  follows  the  way  in  which  the  natives  extract  salt  from  the  Mweru 
swamp  : — '*  The  natives  dwelling  round  the  great  Mweru  'Salt  swamp  take  the  salt-impregnated  earth 
round  the  lake  shore  and  put  it  into  funnels  made  of  closely  woven  grass  rope.  They  then  pour  in 
water  and  stir  up  the  salt  earth.  The  water  takes  up  the  salt  and  filtering  through  the  grass  funnel, 
carries  the  salt  in  solution  into  pots  placed  below.  The  water  is  then  evaporated  and  cakes  of  pure 
salt  are  left.'* 

APPENDIX 
THE   COAL   OF  NYASALAND 

Report  by  the  Director  of  the  Scientific  Department  of  the  Imperial  Institute  on  two  samples  of  coal  from 

Nyasaland,  received  through  Mr.  P.  L.  Sclater,  F.R.S.,  from  Mr.  Alfred  Sharpe,  Acting  Commissioner 

and  Consul-General  for  British  Central  Africa: — 

Specimen  K.— Coal  from  North  Nyasaland—Y'wtA  carbon,  57*63  %  ;  ash,  I5'57  %  ;  volatile  matter, 
26*80  %  ;  sulphur,  0*10  %  ;  coke,  73 "20  %  ;  calorific  value,  5520  units.  This  is  a  non-caking  coal  of  very 
fine  quality,  which  is  likely  to  be  useful  for  most  purposes  for  which  coal  is  employed.  The  percentage  of 
ash  is  rather  high,  but  the  coal  is  remarkably  free  from  sulphur. 

Specimen  B. — Supposed  Coal  from  the  Songwe  River — Fixed  carbon,  47*46  %  ;  ash,  8*4  %  ;  volatile 
matter,  44*54;  sulphur,  0*52  ;  coke,  55-5  ;  calorific  value,  6050  units.  This  also  is  a  non-caking  coal  of 
good,  quality,  yielding  very  little  ash,  and  containing  but  little  sulphur.  This  coal  would  be  serviceable 
either  for  heating  or  for  metallurgical  purposes.  (Signed)        Wvndham  R.  Dunstan. 


CHAPTER    III 
HISTORY 


BRITISH  CENTRAL  AFRICA  only  comes  within  the  domain  of  written 
history  quite  recently,  Tanganyika  and  much  of  Nyasa  scarcely  forty 
years  ago.  It  is  just  barely  possible  that  the  south  end  of  Lake 
Nyasa,  and  it  is  certain  that  a  portion  of  the  river  Shire  which  flows  from 
it,  were  known  to  the  Portuguese  explorers  at  the  latter  end  of  the  sixteenth 
century.  The  unwritten  history,  the  history  which  can  be  deduced  from 
researches  into  language,  examinations  of  racial  type,  native  traditions,  and 
archaeological  researches,  extends  back  into  the  usual  remoteness  connected 
with  the  movements  of  the  human  genus,  though  in  no  part  of  the  world 
is  it  so  indefinite  or  is  there  such  scanty  and  slight  material  on  which  to 
construct  theories. 

It  may  be  that  something  of  this  kind  occurred.  Until  further  facts 
come  to  light,  the  tendency  of  such  little  knowledge  as  we  at  present  possess 
of  the  past  history  of  the  evolution  of  man  is  to  lead  us  to  believe  that  he 
was  developed  from  the  pithecoid  type  somewhere  in  Asia,  not  improbably  in 
India.^  It  would  seem,  at  any  rate,  as  if  the  earliest  known  race  of  man, 
inhabiting  what  is  now  British  Central  Africa,  was  akin  to  the  Bushman- 
Hottentot  type  of-negro.  Rounded  5tones,  with  a  hole  through  the  centre,  similar 
to  those  which  are  used  by  the  Bushmen  in  the  south  for  weighting  their 
digging  sticks,  have  been  found  at  the  south  end  of  Lake  Tanganyika,  and 
specimens  of  them  were  brought  home  thence  by  me  and  given  to  the  British 
Museum.  I  have  heard  that  other  examples  of  these  "  Bushman  "  stones  have 
been  found  nearer  to  Lake  Nyasa,  but  I  have  not  seen  the  alleged  specimens. 
In  one  instance  I  alighted  on  a  curious  tradition,  which  would  make  it  appear 

*  At  any  moment  this  theory,  which  at  present  holds  the  field,  may  be  upset  by  unlooked-for 
discoveries  in  African  pakeontology.  Quite  recently  a  discovery  oi  the  most  extraordinary  importance 
and  interest  has  been  made  by  Dr.  Forsyth  Major  in  Madagascar,  an  island  which  was  united  to  Africa 
in  the  early  part  of  the  tertiary  epoch.  This  consists  of  the  fossil  remains  of  a  monkey-like  form  calle<I 
Nesopitheais^  a  form  intermediate  between  the  Cebidie  and  the  Old  World  monkeys.  The  Cebidae  we  the 
American  monkeys,  a  type  which  is  connected  with  the  Lemuroids  by  transitional  forms.  Mr.  R.  Lydekker 
deduces  from  these  discoveries  that  the  primal  stock  of  the  monkeys  had  its  home  in  Africa ;  that  from 
the  African  continent  branched  off  the  Cebidae,  which  found  their  way  to  America,  and  there  lingered, 
while  they  became  extinguished  in  the  Old  World;  and  the  Simiidae,  or  Old  World  monkeys,  which 
in  turn  gave  rise  to  the  anthropoid  apes  and  man.  So  far  as  we  yet  know  evidence  preponderates  in 
favour  of  the  anthropoid  apes  having  arisen  in  Southern  Asia,  whence  they  penetrated  Africa;  and  the 
famous  discovery  by  Dr.  Dubois,  in  Java,  of  Pithecanthropus  erecius^  a  form  almost  intermediate  between 
the  anthropoid  ape  and  the  human  species,  would  lead  us  to  imagine  that  man  likewise  originated  in  the 
Asiatic  continent,  which  ser\'ed  as  a  distributing  centre.  The  lowest  known  forms  of  man  living 
at  the  present  time,  or  only  recently  extinct,  are  found  in  Tasmania,  Australia,  South  Eastern  Asia, 
and  Central  and  Southern  Africa.  At  the  same  time  further  discoveries  may  equallv  well  show  that  the 
development  of  the  anthropoid  ape  into  man  took  place  in  Africa,  a  guess  once  hazarded  by  Darwin. 

52 


HISTORY 


53 


that  until  recently  the  Bushman  type  was  lingering  on  the  upper  plateau  of  the 
Mlanje  mountain  mass  at  the  south-east  corner  of  the  Protectorate.  The 
Maftanja  natives  of  that  district  assert  positively  that  there  used  to  live  on  the 
upper  part  of  the  mountain,  a  dwarf  race  of  light  yellow  complexion  with  hair 
growing  in  scattered  tufts,  and  with  that  large  development  of  the  buttocks 
characteristic  of  the  Bushman -Hottentot  type.  They  gave  these  people  a 
specific  name,  "  Arungu,"  but  I  confess  that  this  term  inspired  me  with  some 
distrust  of  the  value  of  their  tradition,  as 
it  was  identical  with  the  word  for  "gods."^ 
The  resemblance,  however,  may  have  been 
accidental.  They  declare  this  people  to 
have  been  found  on  the  top  of  Mlanje 
until  quite  recently.  Similar  rumours  were 
collected  by  a  Portuguese  officer  stationed 
at  Mlanje,  and  by  him  communicated  to 
me,  quite  independently  of  my  own  re- 
searches, and  the  same  idea  occurred  to 
him  as  to  myself,  that  the  traditions 
referred  to  a  Bushman  type.  I  have  at 
different  times  exhaustively  searched,  or 
caused  to  be  searched,  the  upper  parts  of 
the  Mlanje  mountain  ;  but  although  traces 
of  human  residence  in  some  of  the  caves 
have  been  reported,  no  definite  proof  of 
the  existence  of  any  people  differing  from 
the  modern  type  was  discovered.  That  is 
to  say,  traces  of  human  habitation  in  those 
caves  and  hollows  consisted  chiefly  of 
fragments  of  pottery,  which  is  certainly 
not  a  characteristic  sign  of  Bushman 
habitation.  It  is  probably  known  to  my 
readers,  however,  that  real  undisputed 
Bushmen  are  found  (I  have  seen  them 
myself)  in  South  Western  Africa,  in  the  same  latitudes  as  the  southern 
part  of  the  British  Protectorate  under  review.  Bushman  tribes  were  discovered 
by  Serpa  Pinto  and  other  explorers  as  far  north  almost  as  the  14th  parallel 
south  latitude,  in  the  countries  near  the  Upper  Kunene  river. 

Here  and  there,  in  Nyasaland,  one  meets  with  faces  and  forms  amongst  the 
natives  which  suggest  a  cropping  out  of  the  Hottentot  type,  as  though  the 
present  Bantu  races  had,  on  their  first  invasion  of  these  countries,  absorbed 
their  Bushman  predecessors  by  intermarriage.  This  Bushman- Hottentot 
mixture,  however,  is  not  nearly  so  apparent  as  it  is  in  the  Basuto  and 
certain  Kafir  tribes  of  South  Africa.  Indeed  when  South  African  negroes 
come  to  Nyasaland  for  work  and  one  is  able  to  contrast  them  with  the 
local  natives,  one  is  struck  at  once  by  the  resemblance  they  offer  to 
Hottentots,  in  their  paler  skins,  more  prominent  cheek  bones,  deep  set  eyes 
and  flattened  nose.  It  is  evident  that  the  Basuto  -  Bechuana  people 
especially  have  much  mingled  with  the  Hottentots  in  times  past.  It  would 
seem    from    the    researches    of    Mr.    Theodore   Bent    in    the   ruined   cities   of 

*  Murungn=a  god.  A-rungu  =  gods.  Yet  this  is  not  the  ordinary  phiral  which  is  Mi-hingu  or 
Mi-ningu,  though  it  is  A-rungu  in  the  more  northern  dialects. 


PORTRAIT   OF   A   YOUNG    BUSHMAN 


54  BRITISH   CENTRAL   AFRICA 

Mashonaland  that  those  earlier  settlers  from  Southern  Arabia,  who  mined 
for  gold  some  two  thousand  years  ago  and  less,  in  South  Central  Africa, 
were  only  acquainted  with  native  inhabitants  of  a  Bushman- Hottentot  type, 
to  judge  by  the  drawings,  engravings  and  models  they  have  left,  intended  to 
depict  natives  engaged  in  the  chase. 

The  evidence  which  I  have  quoted  at  length  in  my  book  on  Kilimanjaro,^ 
and  in  the  prefatory  chapters  to  the  Life  of  Livingstone,  derived  from  a  com- 
parative study  of  the  Bantu  languages,  leads  me  to  believe  that  the  invasion 
of  the  southern  half  of  Africa  by  big  black  negro  races,  nowadays  so  familiar 
to  us,  was  relatively  recent  in  the  history  of  man — perhaps  not  much  more  than 
2O0O  years  ago.  Some  cause,  such  as  the  dense  forests  of  the  Congo  Basin, 
must  have  checked  their  descent  of  the  continent  from  the  Sudan.  They 
may  also  have  been  held  back  for  a  long  time — especially  on  the  eastern  side 
of  the  continent  where  the  forests  could  never  have  been  in  recent  times  a 
serious  obstacle— -by  the  sturdy  opposition  of  the  prior  inhabitants  of  Bushman- 
Hottentot  type.  Be  that  as  it  may,  I  do  not  think  the  black  negroes,  the 
V  present  inhabitants  of  South  Central  Africa,  have  been  in  possession  of  those 
countries  from  time  immemorial,  and  in  their  own  traditions  they  vaguely  recall 
a  descent  from  the  North. 

It  is  possible  that  when  the  Sabaeans  and  Arabs  traded  with  South-east 
Africa,  during  the  first  half  of  the  Christian  era,  one  or  another  of  them  may 
have  penetrated  into  the  countries  round  Lake  Nyasa.  With  this  proviso, 
however,  as  to  the  possibility  of  such  a  journey  having  taken  place,  it  must 
be  stated  that  as  far  as  we  know,  the  Arabs  did  little  more  in  regard  to  British 
Central  Africa  than  to  settle  on  the  coast  of  the  Indian  Ocean,  or  to  establish 
a  trading  dep6t  at  Sena,  on  the  Lower  Zambezi. 

It  would  seem  to  me  as  though  3000  years  ago  the  distribution  of  races 
in  Africa  had  stood  thus.  The  southern  half  of  the  continent,  from  a  little 
north  of  the  Equator  to  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  was  very  sparsely  populated 
with  a  low  Negroid  type,  of  which  the  Bushmen  and  Hottentots,  and  possibly 
the  pigmy  tribes  of  the  Congo  forests,^  are  the  descendants.  The  North  and 
North-east  of  Africa,  from  Morocco  to  Egypt  and  Egypt  to  Somaliland,  was 
p>eopled  mainly  by  the  Hamites,  a  race  akin  in  origin  and  language  to  the 
Semitic  type,  which  latter  was  certainly  a  higher  development  from  a  parent 
Hamitic  stock.  The  Hamites  themselves,  however,  obviously  originated  as  a 
superior  ascending  variety  of  the  Negritic  species,  from  which  basal  stock 
had  been  derived  in  still  earlier  times  the  Bushman- Hottentot  group,  whose 
languages — especially  that  of  the  Hottentot — are  thought  by  some  authorities 
to  show  remote  affinities  in  structure  to  the  Hamitic  tongues.  Westward  of 
the  Hamites,  and  an  earlier  divergence  from  the  original  Negritic  group,  were 
the  true  black  negroes,  more  closely  allied  in  origin  perhaps  to  the  Bushmen- 
Hottentots  than  to  the  more  divergent  Hamites.  But  3000  years  ago,  I  am 
inclined  to  believe  that  the  true  negroes  were  bounded  in  their  distribution 
by  the  northern  limits  of  the  Sahara  Desert,  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  the  great 
forests  of  the  Congo  Basin,  and  either  the  Nile  Valley  or  the  Abyssinian 
Highlands  on  the  East.  Here  and  there  these  different  sections  of  the  Negritic 
stock  mingled,  producing  races  superior  to  the  pure  negro,  like  the  Nubians, 
the  Somalis,  and  the  Fulbe,  which  dwell  more  or  less  on  the  borderland  between 
the  negro  and  the  Hamite.     When  the  true  negroes  invaded  the  southern  half 

*   The  Kilimanjaro  Expedition^  pp.  478-48.^. 

'  These  latter  much  mixed  I  am  sure  with  the  black  negroes. 


HISTORY  S5 

of  the  African  continent,  some  2000  to  3000  years  ago,  they  carried  with  them 
such  culture,  domestic  animals,  and  cultivated  plants  as  they  had  derived 
indirectly  from  Egypt.  I  should  think  that  in  Nyasaland  and  along  the  shores 
of  Lake  Tanganyika,  the  history  of  negro  culture  has  been  retrograde,  until 
the  coming  of  the  Arab  and  the  European.  In  one  or  two  places  on  the  shores 
of  Lake  Nyasa  old  pottery  has  been  dug  up  at  a  considerable  depth  below  the 
surface,  with  trees  of  great  girth  and  age  growing  over  these  remains.  The 
pottery  has  been  found  imbedded  in  the  sand  of  an  ancient  shore-line  of 
Nyasa,  now  covered  by  about  5  feet  of  humus,  in  which  baobab  trees  are 
strongly  rooted.  From  the  approximate  age  of  the  trees,  and  the  time  it 
should  have  taken  to  accumulate  this  vegetable  soil,  some  of  this  pottery  must 
have  been  500  or  600  years  old.  One  large  pot  thus  found  has  been  deposited 
by  me  in  the  British  Museum.  These  few  remains  exhibit  evidences  of  greater 
skill  and  taste  than  is  shown  by  the  pottery  at  the  present  time  in  the  same 
districts.  Researches  founded  on  the  study  of  languages,  of  religions,  of 
traditions,  and  on  the  records  of  Portuguese  explorers  in  West  Africa,  would 
also  seem  to  show  that  in  Western  Africa  many  of  the  negro  States  were  in 
a  far  higher  state  of  culture  500  years  ago  than  they  are  now. 

The  line  of  the  migration  of  the  Bantu  negroes  in  British  Central  Africa 
will  be  treated  of  in  Chapter  XL,  which  describes  their  languages.  It  will  be 
sufficient  to  say,  as  regards  history,  that  we  may  presume  them  to  have  entered 
into  possession  of  these  countries — driving  out  or  absorbing  the  antecedent 
Bushman  race — about  1000  years  ago. 

With  the  doubtful  exception  of  the  visit  of  an  occasional  Arab  slave 
dealer,  they  had  no  contact  with  the  outer  world  until  the  arrival  of  the 
Portuguese  on  the  East  Coast  of  Africa,  which  is  the  first  definite  landmark 
in  the  history  of  this  portion  of  the  continent.  Vasco  da  Gama,  after  rounding 
the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  in  1495,  stopped  at  the  Arab  settlements  of  Sofala 
(near  the  modern  Beira)  and  Mogambique,  and  thence  passed  onwards  to 
Malindi  (near  Mombasa)  and  India.  On  his  return  from  India  he  further 
explored  the  South-east  Coast  of  Africa,  and  (probably  from  information 
given  by  Arab  pilots)  entered  with  his  little  fleet  the  Quelimane  River,^  which 
was  connected  intermittently  with  the  main  Zambezi,  and  which,  until  the  other 
day,  was  thought  to  be  the  only  certain  means  of  reaching  the  Zambezi  above 
its  delta.  This  river  he  called  the  "  Rio  dos  Bons  Signaes,"  or  the  "  River  of 
Good  Indications."  The  name  "  Quelimane,"  which  he  applied  to  a  small 
village  12  miles  inland  from  the  mouth  of  the  river  (the  origin  of  the  now 
important  town  of  Quelimane,  the  capital  of  Portuguese  Zambezia)  is  stated 
by  the  Portuguese  to  have  the  following  etymology.  This  village  belonged 
to  a  certain  individual  who  acted  as  interpreter  between  the  Portuguese  and 
the  natives.  He  appears  to  have  been  an  Arab,  or  a  half  Arab.  In  those 
days  Portuguese  navigators  seem  to  have  been  acquainted  with  Arabic,  a 
language  which  probably  still  lingered  in  the  southern  part  of  Portugal,  where 
Moorish  kingdoms  existed  till  the  twelfth  century.  The  name  which  the 
Portuguese  applied  to  this  individual  was  "  Quelimane  "  (pronounced  Keliman). 
Now  in  the  corrupt  Coast  Arabic  "Kaliman"  is  the  word  for  "Interpreter."^ 
Consequently  the  name  of  the  modern   town  Quelimane*  is  simply  derived 

^  On  Jan.  22nd,  1498.  ^  In  Swahili  this  becomes  Mkalimani. 

*  I  have  taken  the  opportunity  to  give  this  bit  of  etymology  as  there  has  long  been  a  misapprehension 
as  to  the  correct  spelling  of  Quelimane,  which  was  thought  wrongly  to  be  derived  from  "Kilimani," 
which  means  in  Swahili  **  on  the  hill."  But  there  is  no  hill  within  eighty  miles  of  Quelimane.  The  true 
native  name  of  this  place  is  *'  Chuabo." 


56 


BRITISH   CENTRAL   AFRICA 


from  the  term  "  Interpreter,"  applied  to  this  guide  and  go-between  of  Vasco 
da  Gama. 

For  some  five  centuries  before  the  Portuguese  arrived  the  Arabs  of 
Southern  and  Eastern  Arabia  had  formed  or  re-formed  settlements  along  the 
East  Coast  of  Africa  from  Somaliland  to  Sofala.^  In  the  direction  of  British 
Central  Africa  they  were  chiefly  established  at  Mozambique,  Ngoji  (Angoche), 
and  Sena  on  the  Zambezi.  They  apparently  found  no  direct  entrance  into  the 
Zambezi  River  which  could  be  easily  navigated  by  their  daus,  and  preferred 
to  use  the  Quelimane  River.  This  in  exceptional  rainy  seasons  at  the  present 
day  becomes  connected  with  the  Zambezi  river,  by  overflow  creeks ;  and 
possibly  some  centuries  ago  was  the  most  northern  branch  of  the  delta.  The 
Arabs  would  seem,  therefore,  to  have  gone  up  this  river  past  Quelimane,  and 
then  to  have  travelled  either  by  water  when  the  river  was  full,  or  pverland 
at  other  seasons,  to  Sena,  a  settlement  not  far  from  the  junction  of  the  Zambezi 
and  the  Shire.  From  Sena  again  they  had  overland  communication  to  their 
settlements  at  Sofala,  near  the  modem  town  of  Beira.^ 

At  first  the  Portugu^e  were  received  by  the  Arabs  in  a  friendly  fashion,  and 
several  of  the  Portuguese  were  taken  up  by  Arab  guides  from  Quelimane  to 
Sena.  Before  many  years ^  were  over  the  Portuguese  had  dispossessed  the 
Arabs,  and  driven  them  away.  From  Sofala  to  Mozambique  they  replaced 
them  so  completely,  with  the  exception  of  their  settlements  at  Angoche,*  that 
they  disappeared  entirely  and  never  returned,  even  after  the  temporary  decay 
of  the  Portuguese  power  which  enabled  the  Arabs  to  reconquer  the  East  Coast 
of  Africa  as  far  south  as  Kilwa. 

At  first  Sena,  on  the  Lower  Zambezi,  was  the  headquarters  of  the  Portu- 
guese Administration,  and  from  hence  various  expeditions,  during  the  sixteenth 
century,  were  sent  southwards  to  discover  the  gold  mines  of  Manika — expedi- 
tions which  were  mostly  unsuccessful,  owing  to  the  unhealthiness  of  the  climate 
and  the  presence  of  the  Tsetse  fly.  Another  obstacle  in  the  way  of  Portuguese 
enterprise  was  the  kingdom  of  Monomotapa,^  a  powerful  empire  of  Bantu 
negroes,  probably  related  in  stock  to  the  Zulus.  The  influence  of  Monomotapa 
must  have  ranged  from  the  vicinity  of  the  south  end  of  Lake  Nyasa  to  the 
Limpopo  River.     Simultaneously  with  the  first   Portuguese '*  Conquistadores  " 

^  I  say  "re-formed"  because  we  are  now  practically  certain  that  some  races  of  Southern  Arabia  had 
founded  their  ancient  settlements — possibly  in  connection  with  the  Phoenicians— in  South-eastern  Africa, 
not  only  on  the  East  Coast  but  far  in  the  interior  of  Mashonaland.  These  settlements  were,  it  is  supposed, 
destroyed  by  the  advent  of  the  Bantu  tribes  from  the  North,  who  were  far  more  formidable  enemies  to 
tackle  than  the  feeble  Bushmen  and  Hottentots.     It  is  possible  that  the  natives  of  Arabia  did  not  entirely 

five  up  their  African  trade,  though  they  had  to  quit  the  interior  and  confine  their  settlements  to  the  coast. 
lut  whether  or  no  there  was  a  gap  in  Arab  enterprise  in  the  early  part  of  the  Christian  era,  there  was  a 
great  revival  in  the  tenth  century,  and  in  the  eleventh  century  a  strong  Arab  kingdom  was  formed  at 
Kilwa  (midway  between  Zanzibar  and  Mo9ambique)  which  exercised  a  kmd  of  suzerainty  over  the  other 
settlements  or  Sultanates.  Mosques  were  built  at  this  period,  the  remains  of  which  may  be  seen  at  the 
present  day. 

'^  Beira  was  the  name  given  to  this  place  not  many  years  ago  by  the  Portuguese,  when  it  was 
first  founded,  after  Col.  Paiva  d*Andrada's  explorations  of  the  Pungwe  river.  ** Beira'*  is  the  name  of 
one  of  the  principal  provinces  of  Portugal,  and  the  eldest  son  of  the  heir  to  the  throne  of  Portugal  always 
bears  the  title  of  **  Principe  da  Beira."  Beira  is  pronounced  **Bay-ra"  in  Portuguese.  Consequently, 
with  their  usual  perversity,  the  English  people  have  decided  to  call  it  "By-ra,"  for  it  is  one  of  our 
national  peculiarities  to  devote  all  our  best  energy  to  a  mispronunciation  of  foreign  words. 

^  I  believe  the  Arabs  remained  in  possession  of  Sena  until  near  the  end  of  the  sixteenth  century. 

*  Which  really  remain  unconquered  to  this  day. 

*  This  name  was  derived  from  the  native  appellation  of  the  Makaranga  chief,  and  is  apparently  a 
corruption  of  **Mwene  Mutapa  "  =  *  *  I^rd  Hippopotamus";  or  *' Mwana-Mutapa" — **  Child  of  the 
Hippopotamus."  The  hippopotamus  was  much  reverenced  by  the  tribes  of  the  Central  Zambezi,  and 
is  so,  to  some  extent,  still. 


HISTORY 


S7 


and  mining  adventurers  came  lion-hearted  Jesuit  Missionaries,  resolved  on 
repeating  in  the  Zambezi  countries  the  successes  they  had  obtained  in 
Christianising  the  kingdom  of  the  Congo.  Several  of  these  men  were 
martyred  by  the  orders  of  the  Emperor  of  Monomotapa ;  but  eventually 
they  established  themselves  at  Zumbo,  on  the  Central  Zambezi,  at  the  con- 
fluence of  the  great  Luangwa  River. 

The  modern  capital  of  Tete,^  which  is  the  most  important  town  on  the 
Zambezi,  was  not  founded  until  the  middle  of  the  seventeenth  century,  and  was 
merely  a  station  of  Jesuit  Missionaries  originally,  though  afterwards  taken  over 
by  the  Portuguese  Government.  At  first,  however,  the  principal  towns  were 
Zumbo  and  Sena. 


governor's  house,  tete 

The  Portuguese  soon  penetrated  northward  of  the  Zambezi,  in  the  direction 
of  the  Maravi  country  and  the  watershed  of  Lake  Nyasa.  Here  they  dis- 
covered, or  re-discovered,  from  hints  given  by  Arabs  or  natives,  the  gold 
deposits  of  Misale,^  and  for  some  century  or  so  afterwards  these  gold  mines 
were  extensively  worked.  Curiously  enough,  however,  the  chief  mineral  dis- 
coveries of  the  Portuguese  at  this  time  lay  in  the  direction  of  silver,  though 
at  the  present  time  we  have  no  knowledge  of  any  existing  silver  mines  in  the 
Zambezi  countries. 

In  1616  a  Portuguese,  named  Jaspar  Bocarro,  offered  to  carry  samples  of 
Zambezi  silver  overland  from  the  Central  Zambezi  to  Malindi,  a  Portuguese 
settlement  to  the  north  of  Mombasa,  without  going  near  Mozambique.     The 

'  Tete  is  the  name  for  a  reed.  The  plural  **  Matete"  means  '*a  reed-bed."  It  is  possible  that  this 
was  the  etymology  of  the  name,  as  the  shore  is  very  reedy  about  that  part  of  the  Zambezi.  But  the 
native  name  of  Tete  is  "  Nyungwi." 

2  Nowadays  Misale  lies  within  the  British  sphere  of  influence,  and  a  British  company  is  attempting 
to  work  its  gold. 


58 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


THE   ISLAND   OF    MO<j'AMDIQUE,   SEEN   FROM   THE   MAINLAND 

motive  of  this  offer  lay  in  the  fact  that  considerable  friction  existed  between 
the  Central  Government  of  Mozambique,  which  was  under  the  Viceroys  of 
India,  and  the  Portuguese  adventurers  on  the  Zambezi,  who  strongly  objected 
to  the  grinding  monopolies  which  the  Mozambique  Government  sought  to 
establish.  Jaspar  Bocarro  apparently  journeyed  from  where  the  town  of  Tete 
now  stands  to  the  Upper  Shire  River,  crossing  that  stream  near  its  junction 
with  the  Ruo ;  and  then,  passing  through  the  Anguru  country  in  the  vicinity 
of  Lake  Chilwa,  he  entered  the  Lujenda  Valley,  and  so  travelled  on  to  the 
Ruvuma  River,  and  thence  to  the  coast  at  Mikindani.  ^From  Mikindani  he 
continued  his  journey  to  Malindi  by  sea.  So  far  as  reliable  records  go,  this  was 
the  first  European  to  enter  what  is  now  styled  "  British  Central  Africa." 

The  Jesuit  priests  from  Zumbo  had  journeyed  westward  into  the  country 
of   the  Batonga  or  Batoka,^  and  northwards  up  the   Luangwa  River.     They 

^  Sir  John  Kirk,  when  travelling  with  Livingstone,  in  1859,  discovered  groves  of  fruit  trees  in  the 
Batoka  country  which  may  have  been  introduced  by  the  Jesuits. 


HISTORY  59 

transmitted  rumours  of  a  great  lake  (Nyasa),  which  they  styled  Lake  "  Maravi." 
This  really  meant  **  a  lake  in  the  country  of  the  Maravi,"  Maravi  being  an  old 
name  (now  nearly  extinct)  of  the  Nyanja  tribes  in  the  south-west  of  Nyasa- 
land.  But  in  the  middle  of  the  eighteenth  century  the  Jesuits  were  expelled 
from  all  the  Portuguese  Dominions  by  order  of  the  Marquez  de  Pombal ;  and 
after  their  departure  from  the  Central  Zambezi  there  was  a  temporary  diminu- 
tion of  Portuguese  activity.  At  the  very  end  of  the  last  century,  however,  the 
interest  of  the  Portuguese  Government  in  its  East  African  possessions  was 
revived  by  the  British  Government  having  taken  possession  of  the  Cape  of 
Good  Hope  at  the  outbreak  of  the  war  with  France.  In  the  year  following 
the  seizure  of  Cape  Town^  by  an  English  force,  Dr.  Francisco  Jos^  Maria  de 
Lacerda  e  Almeida,  a  distinguished  scientific  man  who  was  a  native  of  Brazil,, 
and  a  Doctor  of  Mathematics  at  Coimbra  University  (Portugal),  addressed  a  very 
remarkable  letter  to  the  Portuguese  Government,  setting  forth  that  the  results 
of  the  English  invasion  of  Capetown  would  be  the  creation  of  a  great  British 
South  African  Empire,  which  would,  if  not  counteracted  in  time,  spread  north- 
wards across  the  Zambezi,  and  separate  the  Portuguese  Dominions  of  Angola 
and  Mozambique.  This,  I  think,  at  the  period  and  with  the  limited 
geographical  knowledge  then  possessed  by  even  a  Portuguese  University, 
was  one  of  the  most  remarkable  instances  of  political  foresight  which  can 
be  quoted.  The  Portuguese  Government  was  so  struck  with  Dr.  Lacerda's 
arguments  that  it  appointed  him  Governor  of  the  Rios  de  Sena,^  and 
authorised  him  to  conduct  an  expedition  "d  contra-costa  " — across  Africa  from 
the  Zambezi  countries  to  Angola,  establishing  Portuguese  Suzerainty  along  his 
route. 

It  should  be  stated  at  this  juncture  that  not  nearly  so  many  white  Portuguese 
had  assisted  in  opening  up  the  East  African  territories,  as  had  settled  in  Angola,, 
and  on  the  West  Coast  of  Africa.  In  those  days  the  Portuguese  East  African 
possessions  were  generally  knit  up  with  their  Viceroyalty  of  India,  and  the 
pure-blooded  Portuguese  in  the  Zambezi  countries  were  few  in  number 
compared  to  the  "Canarins''  or  Canarese  These  people  were  half-caste 
natives  of  Goa,  with  more  or  less  Indian  blood  in  their  veins,  and  constituted 
the  principal  element  in  the  Portuguese  Zambezi  settlements.  They  were  very 
enterprising  men,  though  they  relapsed  into  semi-savagery,  and  as  slave-traders 
and  robbers  had  a  record  almost  more  evil  than  that  of  the  Arabs.  Nevertheless 
the  European  blood  in  their  veins  sharply  distinguished  these  Goanese  from 
the  unlettered  black  people,  and  of  some  of  their  journeys  they  kept  more 
or  less  intelligent  records.  Two  Goanese  of  the  name  of  Pereira,  father  and 
son,  had  gone  gold  hunting  to  the  north  of  the  Zambezi,  and  had  eventually 
pushed  on  with  their  armed  slaves  till  they  reached  the  Kazembe*s  country, 
near  Lake  Mweru.  The  reports  which  they  gave  of  the  Kazembe  (a  lieutenant 
or  satrap  of  the  Muata  Yanvo  of  Lunda)  decided  Dr.  Lacerda  to  proceed 
thither  on  his  way  across  to  Angola.  His  expedition  numbered  about  75 
white  Portuguese,  and  the  two  Pereiras  accompanied  it  as  guides.  Dr.  Lacerda, 
however,  only  succeeded  in  reaching  Kazembe's  capital,  near  the  south  end  of 
Lake  Mweru,  and  eventually  died  there  on  the  i8th  October,  1798.  After  his 
death  the  expedition  became  so  disorganised  that  instead  of  continuing  the 
journey  to  Angola  it  returned  to  Tete. 

At  the  beginning  of  the  present  century  two  half-caste  Portuguese,  named 
Baptista  and   Amaro   Jose,   crossed   from   the  Kwango    River  in  the  interior 

^  Which  took  place  in  1795.  *  The  old  name  for  the  Zambezi. 


6o  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

of  Angola  to  the  Kazembe's  country,  near  Lake  Mweru,  and  thence  to  Tete 
on  the  Zambezi.  In  1831  Major  Monteiro  and  Captain  Gamitto  conducted 
a  mission  from  Tete  to  the  Kazembe,  and  some  years  subsequently  Silva  Porto, 
a  Portuguese  colonist,  of  Bihe,  in  the  interior  of  Benguela,  is  also  said  to  have 
rambled  over  much  of  South  Central  Africa ;  further,  a  certain  Candido  de 
Costa  Cardoso  claimed  that  he  sighted  the  south-west  corner  of  Lake  Nyasa 
in  1846;  but  none  Of  these  explorers,  with  the  exception  of  Dr.  Lacerda, 
possessed  any  scientific  qualifications,  and  their  journeys  led  to  little  or  no 
geographical  information  or  political  ascendancy.  Indeed,  what  is  remarkable 
about  Dr.  Lacerda,  to  say  nothing  of  the  other  explorers,  was  the  extraordinary 
bad  luck  which  prevented  him  from  sighting  any  important  river  or  lake.  He 
reached  a  point  within  a  few  miles  of  the  large  Lake  Mweru,  and  yet  either 
never  saw  it,  or  thought  it  not  worth  mention.  He  heard  vague  rumours  of 
Tanganyika  and  of  Nyasa,  but  did  not  direct  his  steps  in  either  direction  ; 
and,  stranger  still,  he  missed  the  recognition  of  the  remarkable  Luapula,  which 
we  now  know  to  be  the  Upper  Congo,  though  he  must  have  actually  been 
within  sight  of  it. 

The  real  history  of  British  Central  Africa  begins  with  the  advent  of 
Livingstone.  This  intrepid  missionary  had  gradually  pushed  his  explorations 
northwards  from  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  until  he  reached  the  Central  Zambezi 
in  185 1,  accompanied  by  the  celebrated  sportsman  Mr.  Oswell.  Impressed 
with  the  importance  of  his  discovery  Livingstone  returned  to  Cape  Town, 
and  with  the  generous  assistance  of  Mr.  Oswell,  was  enabled  not  only  to  send 
his  wife  and  children  out  of  harm's  way,  but  to  equip  himself  for  the  tremendous 
exploration  of  South  Central  Africa,  which  he  had  determined  to  accomplish. 
Having  perfected  himself  in  astronomical  observ^ations,  under  the  tuition  of  the 
Astronomer-Royal  of  Cape  Town,  Livingstone  started  for  the  North  and  once 
more  reached  the  Zambezi,  near  its  confluence  with  the  Chobe.  Thence  he 
travelled  up  the  Zambezi  to  its  source,  and  across  to  Angola  and  again  back 
from  Angola  and  down  the  Zambezi  to  its  mouth,  or  more  correctly  speaking 
to  Quelimane,  on  the  Indian  Ocean.  This  epoch-making  journey  had  important 
and  far-reaching  results.  Livingstone  was  sent  back  by  the  British  Government 
at  the  head  of  a  well-equipped  expedition,  and  was  accompanied  amongst 
others  by  Dr.,  now  Sir  John,  Kirk,  who,  besides  being  medical  officer,  was 
the  naturalist  of  the  expedition. 

After  a  journey  to  Tete  and  visits  to  the  "  Quebrabago  *'  Rapids  for  the 
purpose  of  determining  the  navigability  of  the  Zambezi  above  Tete,  Livingstone 
determined  to  search  for  and  find  the  reported  great  lake  out  of  which  the  Shire^ 
flowed  to  join  the  Zambezi.  At  this  date  the  Portuguese  knew  scarcely  anything 
of  the  Shire  beyond  its  confluence  with  the  Zambezi.  They  seem  to  have 
lost  all  remembrance  of  the  one  or  two  earlier  journeys  in  that  direction  of 
Portuguese  explorers.  Consequently,  before  Livingstone  and  his  party  had 
ascended  the  Shire  very  far  they  found  themselves  in  a  country  absolutely 
new  to  the  white  man.  After  several  futile  attempts  to  reach  Lake  Nyasa, 
in  the  course  of  one  of  which  they  discovered  the  brackish  Lake  Chilwa, 
which  lies  to  the  south-east  of  the  greater  lake,  and  Lake  Malombe,  which 

^  The  name  of  the  "Shire"  river  was  formerly  written  by  the  Portuguese  **Cherim"  (pronounce, 
"Shdring");  this  was  later  still  written  **Chire,"  which  if  the  "ch"  be  pronounced  as  in  ** church" 
fairly  represents  the  native  pronunciation.  But  the  Portuguese  pronounce  **ch"  like  **sh,"  therefore 
Livingstone  heard  them  speak  of  this  river  as  the  **  Shire,"  and  thus  transcribed  it  in  English.  The 
correct  native  pronunciation  is  '*Chiri"  (Cheeree),  and  the  word  means  in  Chinyanja  **a  steep  bank  "— 
Nyanja  ya  chiri,  **  the  river  with  the  steep  banks." 


HISTORY 


6i 


is  a  widening  of  the  Upper  Shire,  Livingstone  and  his  companions  finally 
reached  the  southern  extremity  of  Nyasa,  near  the  site  of  the  modem  settle- 
ment of  Fort  Johnston,  on  the  i6th  of  September,  1859,  the  first  white  men, 
as  far  as  we  know  with  any  certainty,  who  stood  on  the  shores  of  Lake  Nyasa. 
As  the  district  in  which  Livingstone  discovered  this  third  greatest  of  the  lakes 
of  Africa  was  under  Yao  domination,  he  recorded  its  name  as  pronounced 
by  the  Yao,  i.e.  Nyasa;  but  its  most  common  appellation  is  Nyanja.  This  is 
the  same  word  as  Nyanza  farther  north,  and  Nyasa,  Nyanja,  and  Nyanza 
are  derived  from  an  archaic  and  widespread  Bantu  root  -anza,  which  means 
**a  broad  water." ^ 

Livingstone  and  his  party  extended  their  explorations  of  the  western  coast 
of  Lake  Nyasa  as  far  north  as  about   11*30  south  latitude,  a  little  more  than 


THE   POINT  ON   THE   SOUTH   SHORE  OF    LAKE   NYASA   WHENCE  THE    LAKE   WAS   FIRST  SEEN 
BY   DR.   LIVINGSTONE   AND  SIR  JOHN    KIRK    IN    1859 

half-way  up  the  lake.  Subsequently  Livingstone  travelled  inland  west  of  Lake 
Nyasa  till  he  reached  the  watershed  of  the  great  Luangwa  River,  and  it 
was  upon  hearing  at  that  point  of  a  not  far  distant  lake  that  he  resolved, 
on  his  succeeding  journey,  to  proceed  along  the  same  route,  and  thus  discovered 
the  south  end  of  Lake  Tanganyika,  Lake  Mweru,  the  Luapula  River,  and  Lake 
Bangweolo.  Whilst  Livingstone  and  Kirk  were  exploring  Lake  Nyasa  and 
the  Shire  Highlands,  however,  they  were  joined  by  a  Christian  Mission  under 
Bishop  Mackenzie,  which  had  been  sent  out  from  the  two  great  English 
Universities,  and  which  exists  to  this  day  under  the  name  of  the  "  Universities 
Mission  to  Central  Africa."  These  missionaries  settled  in  the  eastern  part 
of  the  Shire  Highlands,  just  as  the  invasions  of  the  Muhammadan  Yao  slave 
raiders  were  beginning. 

^  This  root  is  found  even  among  the  more  corrupt  Bantu  tongues  of  Western  Equatorial  Afriai. 
For  instance,  the  broad  estuary  of  the  Cameroons  River  is  called  in  the  Duala  tongue  "  Muanza.'* 
and  the  same  name  is  given  to  the  Lower  Congo. 


62  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

Following  on  the  Portuguese  expeditions  at  the  end  of  the  i8th  century 
to  Kazembe's  country,  a  great  intercourse  had  sprung  up  between  the  Babisa 
tribe,  which  inhabits  the  district  to  the  west  of  the  great  I.uangwa  River  and 
the  Zanzibar  coast.  The  Babisa  had  acquired  guns  from  the  Portuguese,  and, 
armed  in  this  way,  had  asserted  themselves  effectually  against  tribes  still  armed 
with  the  bow  and  spear.  They  became  an  enterprising  people  and  resolved 
to  trade  directly  with  the  Coast.  Not  liking  the  Portuguese,  however,  they 
preferred  to  journey  farther  north,  and  trafficked  with  the  Arabs  of  Zanzibar. 
About  this  time  the  Zanzibar  Sultanate  was  increasing  gradually  in  power. 
It  was  an  appanage  of  the  Imamate  of  Maskat  ('Oman),  and  already  the 
Maskat  Arabs  (who  had  replaced  the  Portuguese  in  all  the  trading  settlements 
of  Eastern  Africa,  between  the  Ruvuma  River  and  Somaliland)  had  begun  to 
push  their  slave  and  ivory  trading  enterprises  into  the  interior  of  Eastern 
Africa,  especially  in  the  direction  of  Tanganyika.  Attracted,  however,  by  the 
accounts  which  the  Babisa  caravans  gave  of  the  fertile  country  in  which  they 
dwelt,  and  struck  with  the  docility  of  the  slaves  brought  down  by  the  Babisa 
from  the  Nyasa  countries,  certain  Arabs  accompanied  the  Babisa  caravans 
back  to  their  place  of  origin,  which  was,  as  I  have  said,  the  countries  lying  to 
the  west  of  the  great  Luangwa  River.  The  route  they  followed  was  from  ports 
like  Kilwa  on  the  East  Coast  to  Lake  Nyasa  thence  across  Nyasa  and  south- 
west or  due  west  to  the  Lubisa  country. 

In  the  course  of  these  journeys  the  Arabs  became  acquainted  with  that  race 
of  fine  physical  development  and  stubborn  character,  the  Yao,  who  inhabit 
much  of  the  high  country  lying  between  the  Indian  Ocean  and  Lake  Nyasa. 
In  the  Yao  they  found  willing  confederates  in  the  slave  trade,  and  a  people 
much  inclined  to  Muhammadanism.  Eventually  the  poor  Babisa  were  attacked 
and  enslaved  by  neighbouring  tribes  who  had  been  armed  by  the  Arabs,  and 
their  importance  passed  away.  The  Arabs  and  Yao  between  them  began  to 
dominate  Nyasaland.  Now  the  inhabitants  of  the  bulk  of  Nyasaland  proper, 
with  the  exception  of  its  north-west  portion,  belonged  in  the  main  to  what  may 
be  called  the  A-nyanja  stock.  These  people  who  are  referred  to  by  Portuguese 
of  an  earlier  date  as  the  Amaravi,  and  who  are  of  the  same  race  as  the  indigenous 
inhabitants  of  the  Zambezi  Valley  between  Tete  and  Sena  and  of  the  whole 
course  of  the  Shire,  are  of  a  singularly  docile  and  peaceful  disposition,  devoted 
to  agriculture  and  timid  in  warfare — a  race  consequently  that  is  always  falling 
under  the  domination  of  more  powerful  and  energetic  tribes.  Before  what  may 
be  called  the  Yao  invasion  of  the  Shire  Highlands  the  Nyanja  people  had  been 
oppressed  by  Zulu  invaders  coming  from  the  south-west.  The  convulsions 
which  had  been  taking  place  in  Zululand  in  the  early  part  of  this  century  had 
resulted  in  a  most  curious  recoil  of  the  Zulu  race  on  Central  Africa.  It  is 
probably  not  many  centuries  since  the  forerunners  of  the  Zulus  swept  down 
from  Central  Africa,  from  the  region  of  the  great  lakes,  across  the  Zambezi, 
into  Southern  Africa,  driving  themselves  like  a  wedge  through  the  earlier  Bantu 
invaders,  the  ancestors  of  the  Basuto-Bechuana,  and  further  displacing  and 
destroying  the  feebler  Hottentot  people.  Now,  however,  with  the  Indian  Ocean 
in  front  of  them,  and  internal  commotions  and  increase  of  population  com- 
j)elling  them  to  find  more  space  for  settlement,  sections  of  them  began  to  turn 
their  faces  back  towards  the  Zambezi.  The  foundations  of  the  Matabele^ 
kingdom  were  laid,  and  band  after  band  of  Zulus  crossed  the  Zambezi  about 

^  Or  Amandabele,  as  it  ought  to  be  written  but  that  we  English  love  inaccuracy  in  pronunciation 
iind  spelling  for  its  own  sake.     Maiabele  is  the  Se-chuana  corniption  of  the  Zulu  **  Amandabele.'' 


HISTORY  63 

1 825-6,  and  in  their  raids  and  conquests  almost  penetrated  as  far  as  the  southern 
shores  of  the  Victoria  Nyanza,  whilst  they  were  constantly  heard  of  on  the  east 
coast  of  Tanganyika.  In  the  west  and  south-west  of  Nyasaland  they  had 
founded  kingdoms  and  enslaved  the  local  inhabitants,  when  the  Yao  from  the 
north-east  hurled  themselves  on  the  fertile  Shire  districts.  So  that  the  unfor- 
tunate Nyanja  people  were  caught  between  Zulu  and  Yao,  and  suffered  greatly. 
The  British  missionaries  and  explorers,  however,  saw  little  of  the  Zulu  raiders 
in  those  earlier  days.^  At  the  beginning  of  the  "sixties"  they  were  chiefly 
concerned  with  the  Yao  invasion.  After  in  vain  attempting  to  defend  their 
Nyanja  converts  from  the  attacks  of  the  Yao,  the  Universities  Mission  lost  so 
many  of  its  members  from  sickness,  and  was  additionally  so  discouraged 
by  the  abandonment  of  Dr.  Livingstone's  schemes,  that  it  withdrew  from  the* 
country  for  a  time.  Livingstone  and  his  Expedition  were  recalled  by  the 
British  Government  at  the  end  of  1863,  and  quitted  Zambezia  in  1864. 

The  fact  was  that  the  British  Government  was  at  that  time  discouraged 
from  any  further  work  in  the  Zambezi  countries  by  the  following  obstacles : 
the  political  opposition  shown  by  the  Portuguese  j^  the  acknowledged  sway 
of  the  Portuguese  over  the  coast  line  which  made  it  impossible  to  communicate 
with  any  British  Possessions  which  might  be  founded  in  the  interior;  the 
unhealthiness  of  the  coast  lands ;  and  the  seeming  absence  of  any  easy  way 
into  the  Zambezi  River,  all  the  known  mouths  of  which  were  cursed  with 
<langerous  and  shallow  bars.  The  discovery  of  the  Chinde  mouth,  which 
afterwards  revolutionised  the  whole  question,  had  not  then  been  made ;  or. 
it  may  be,  the  Chinde  branch  of  the  Zambezi  as  an  easily  navigated  river  did 
not  then  exist,  for  there  have  evidently  been  great  fluctuations  in  the  Zambezi 
Delta  with  regard  to  the  course  taken  by  the  principal  body  of  its  water. 

Following  on  Livingstone's  first  journey  across  South  Central  Africa,  a  great 
interest  had  sprung  up  in  France  and  Germany  regarding  the  existence  of  the 
reported  Central  African  lakes.  The  German  Missionaries  in  the  pay  of  the 
Church  Missionary  Society  in  East  Africa,  had  discovered  the  snow  mountains 
of  Kenia  and  Kilimanjaro  and  had  reported,  from  native  information,  the 
existence  of  the  Victoria  Nyanza,  of  Tanganyika  and  of  Lake  Nyasa.  Fore- 
most amongst  the  African  explorers  of  that  day,  and,  at  the  time,  second  in 
importance  to  Livingstone  only,  was  a  young  lieutenant  in  the  Indian  Army — 
Richard  Francis  Burton — who,  stationed  at  Aden,  had  attempted  the  exploration 
of  Somaliland  with  a  brother-officer  named  Speke.  After  some  difficulty 
Burton  had  induced  the  Geographical  Society  and  Her  Majesty's  Government 
to  provide  him  with  the  funds  for  an  expedition  which  would  start  from 
opposite  Zanzibar  to  discover  the  great  Central  African  lake  or  lakes.  He 
chose  Lieut  Speke  as  his  companion,  and  together  they  discovered  Lake 
Tanganyika,  Speke  afterwards  being  dispatched  by  Burton  to  look  for  the 
great  lake  of  Ukerewe,  which  Speke  declared  with  truth  to  be  the  main  source 
of  the  Nile  and  which  he  named  the  Victoria  Nyanza.  Burton  and  Speke 
were  the  first  Europeans  to  arrive  on  the  shores  of  Lake  Tanganyika.  They 
explored  its  northern  half,  but  not  very  much  work  was  done  in  the  way  of 

*  Livingstone  however  came  in  contact  with  them  when  he  explored  the  western  shores  of  Lake 
Nyasa. 

^  But  it  must  be  distinctly  stated  that  throughout  the  whole  course  of  Livingstone's  first  and  second 
Zambezi  expeditions  though  the  Portuguese  Government  may  have  viewed  with  distaste  the  interest 
evinced  by  England  in  the  Zambezi  and  the  interior  of  East  Central  Africa,  the  courtesy  and  kindness 
shown  by  the  Portuguese  authorities  to  Livingstone  and  the  rest  of  his  expedition  were  praiseworthy 
in  the  extreme.     For  particulars  of  this  see  my  Life. of  Livin^tone, 


64  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

mapping  beyond  visiting  the  western  shore  and  making  a  rough  outline  of  the 
northern  portion  of  the  lake.  Prior  to  Burton's  journey,  a  young  Frenchman 
started  from  Zanzibar  for  the  same  purpose,  but  had  been  murdered  on  the  way 
to  Tanganyika,  and  after  Burton's  expedition  a  German  doctor,  named  Ernst 
Roscher,  had  set  out  for  Lake  Nyasa  in  the  disguise  of  an  Arab.  He  reached 
the  eastern  shore  of  the  lake  at  a  place  called  Lusewa,  on  the  19th  November, 
1859,  ^wo  months  after  Livingstone's  discovery.  On  his  attempted  return  to 
the  coast,  however,  he  was  murdered  by  the  Yao,  a  murder  which  was  to  some 
extent  avenged  by  the  Sultan  of  Zanzibar,  who  brought  influence  to  bear 
on  the  Yao  chiefs  to  send  the  ostensible  murderers  to  Zanzibar  to  be  executed. 
Another  German  traveller  of  some  celebrity.  Baron  von  der  Decken,  who  was 
the  first  systematic  explorer  of  Kilimanjaro,  had  attempted  to  reach  Lake 
Nyasa,  but  scarcely  got  half  way. 

Meantime  Livingstone,  after  a  year's  sojourn  in  England,  had  managed  to 
scrape  together  funds  for  another  Central  Africa  exploration.  He  was  very 
desirous  of  resuming  his  journeys  in  search  of  other  lakes  to  the  west  of  Lake 
Nyasa.  Travelling  by  Bombay  and  Zanzibar  he  landed  at  Mikindani  at  the 
end  of  March,  1866.  He  was,  I  believe,  the  first  explorer  to  attempt  taking 
with  him  natives  of  India  as  guards  or  soldiers ;  but  it  must  be  confessed  that 
although  the  employment  of  Indians  in  Central  Africa  has  since  proved  very 
successful,  the  Muhammadan  Sepoys  who  accompanied  Livingstone  turned  out 
utter  failures,  and  were  eventually  sent  back  from  Mataka's,  a  town  in  the  Yao 
country.  Livingstone  also  tried  to  introduce  the  Indian  buffalo,  an  experiment 
not  repeated  until  my  reintroduction  of  this  animal  from  India  in  1895.  It 
is  interesting  to  note  that  Livingstone's  buffalos  passed  through  the  tsetse  fly 
country,  and,  seemingly,  were  not  affected  by  the  bites  of  that  insect,  though 
they  all  subsequently  died  as  the  result  of  maltreatment  at  the  hands  of  the 
Sepoys. 

Livingstone  again  reached  the  shores  of  Lake  Nyasa,  at  its  south-eastern  gulf, 
on  the  8th  of  August,  1866 ;  but  being  unable  to  cross  without  a  dau  he  walked 
right  round  the  southern  end,  and  thence  turned  his  steps  northwards.  At 
Marenga's  town,  near  the  south-west  corner  of  Lake  Nyasa,  there  were  rumours 
of  Angoni-Zulu  raids,  which  greatly  scared  the  coast -men  of  Livingstone's 
caravan,  who  consequently  abandoned  him  here;  and  to  excuse  themselves 
at  Zanzibar  for  their  act  of  bad  faith,  they  reported,  with  much  corroborative 
detail,  the  death  of  Livingstone  at  the  hands  of  the  Angoni. 

Livingstone,  after  the  desertion  of  these  coast-men  (who  were  natives  of 
the  Comoro  Islands)  pursued  his  way  northwards,  and  reached  the  great 
Luangwa  river  in  December,  1866;  on  the  28th  of  January,  1867,  he  crossed 
the  Chambezi  river,  which  issues  from  the  Bangweolo  marshes,  under  the  name 
of  the  Luapula,  and  is  in  reality  the  extreme  Upper  Congo.  On  the  1st  of 
April  he  reached  the  south  end  of  Lake  Tanganyika,  and  for  the  time  being, 
believed  it  to  be  a  separate  lake  under  the  nam.e  of  Liemba ;  on  the  8th  of 
November,  1867,  he  discovered  Lake  Mweru  ;  on  the  i8th  of  July,  1868,  Lake 
Bangweolo.  Returning  from  Bangweolo,  he  journeyed  with  an  Arab  caravan 
from  Kazembe's  town  near  the  south  end  of  Lake  Mweru,  to  the  west  shore 
of  Tanganyika,  which  he  crossed  to  Ujiji,  reaching  that  place  in  March,  1869. 
After  attempting  in  vain  to  organize  a  caravan  for  a  journey  round  the  north 
end  of  Lake  Tanganyika  he  recrossed  the  lake  to  the  opposite  side  in  July, 
and  having  joined  a  large  party  of  Arabs  and  Swahilis,  he  wandered  with  them 
in  the  Manyema  country  for  many  months.     His  object  was  the  Lualaba  river 


HISTORY  65 

<the  Upper  Congo)  of  which  he  had  heard  much  to  excite  his  curiosity,  and 
which  river,  he  believed,  with  occasional  misgivings,  to  be  the  Upper  Nile. 
But  so  erratic  were  the  wanderings  of  the  Arabs  to  and  fro  in  the  Manyema 
country  that  Livingstone  did  not  actually  reach  the  banks  of  the  Lualaba  until 
March,  1871.  Resolved  to  devote  himself  now  to  the  tracing  of  what  he 
believed  to  be  the  Upper  Nile  from  its  source  on  the  Nyasa-Tanganyika 
plateau  to  its  entrance  into  the  Albert  Nyanza,  Livingstone  decided  to  return 
to  Ujiji  and  renew  his  stock  of  trade  goods  and  provisions.  His  journey  from 
the  Lualaba  to  Ujiji  was  accompanied  by  indescribable  hardships,  which 
produced  such  an  effect  on  his  constitution  that  they  eventually  led  to  his 
-death  two  years  later.  Soon  after  returning  to  Ujiji  he  met  Henry  M.  Stanley, 
who  had  been  sent  by  the  New  York  Herald  to  "  find  Dr.  Livingstone,  living 
or  dead." 

Stanley's  arrival  certainly  added  two  years  more  to  Livingstone's  life,  as 
by  a  series  of  accidents  and  frauds  he  found  himself  absolutely  destitute 
of  resources  after  his  return  to  Ujiji.  Together  the  two  men  made  an  ex- 
ploration of  the  north  end  of  Lake  Tanganyika,  and  then  journeyed  eastwards 
to  Unyanyembe,  half  way  to  Zanzibar.  Here  Livingstone  insisted  on  parting 
company  with  Stanley,  though  the  latter  earnestly  entreated  him  to  return 
to  Europe ;  but  with  Livingstone  the  idea  of  finding  the  ultimate  sources  of 
the  Nile  had  become  almost  a  monomania,  and  he  was  resolved  not  to  return 
to  Europe  until  he  had  mapped  the  upper  waters  of  the  Chambezi  and  the 
Luapula,  together  with  the  river  Lualaba,  which  took  its  rise  in  the  Katanga 
Highlands  to  the  West.  So  he  started  off  once  more  for  Lake  Bangweolo  in 
August,  1872,  passing  round  the  south  end  of  Lake  Tanganyika,  and  reaching 
the  eastern  shores  of  Lake  Bangweolo  in  the  month  of  April,  1873.  But  his 
race  was  run,  and  he  died  at  a  village  near  the  south  end  of  that  marshy  lake 
on  or  about  the  ist  of  May,  1873. 

Meantime  Nyasaland  had  not  long  remained  without  English  visitors.  In 
1867  Lieut.  Young  conducted  an  expedition  to  the  south  end  of  Lake  Nyasa 
to  examine  into  the  reports  as  to  the  murder  of  Livingstone  by  the  Angoni. 
Young  (who  only  died  a  few  months  ago)  conducted  this  expedition  in  a  most 
remarkably  successful  manner.  He  left  England  in  the  middle  of  May,  1867, 
reached  the  Zambezi  with  three  European  companions  and  a  steel  boat  on  the 
2Sth  of  July,  journeyed  with  his  baggage  in  the  steel  boat  (which  was  named 
The  Search^)  and  in  a  flotilla  of  smaller  boats  and  canoes  up  the  Zambezi  and 
the  Shire  to  the  Murchison  cataracts;  conveyed  the  steel  boat  overland  to  the 
Upper  Shire;  reached  Mponda's  town  at  the  south  end  of  Lake  Nyasa; 
collected  a  mass  of  information  which  conclusively  proved  that  Livingstone 
was  not  killed  but  had  started  unmolested  on  his  way  to  the  West;  returned 
to  the  Zambezi,  and  reached  England  at  the  beginning  of  1868  after  only  eight 
months'  absence. 

Young  had  been  greatly  helped  in  his  transit  of  the  Shire  Highlands  by 
the  Makololo  whom  Livingstone  had  left  behind  in  that  district  after  his 
withdrawal  from  the  Zambezi  in  1864.  Those  who  have  read  the  well-known 
works  dealing  with  Dr.  Livingstone's  explorations  will  remember  that  on 
his  first  journey  of  discovery  up  and  down  the  Zambezi  he  had  been  accom- 
panied by  certain  faithful  Makololo  porters  who  had  followed  him  from  the 
Barutse  country,  on  the  Upper  Zambezi.  The  so-called  Makololo  were  a 
section     of    the     Bechuana    people    who,    leaving    Basutoland    after    tribal 

^  And  is  slill  plying  on  the  ShirCt 


66  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

disturbances,  journeyed  across  the  Kalahari  Desert,  and  established  themselves 
in  the  Barutse  country.^  When  Livingstone  reached  Tete  on  his  journey  back 
to  the  East  Coast  in  1856  he  left  behind  at  that  place  the  so-called  Makololo 
(about  25  in  number),  who  had  followed  him  from  the  Upper  Zambezi.  On 
his  return  in  1858  he  picked  them  up  again  and  added  to  their  numbers  several 
others  who  followed  him  of  their  own  free  will  on  his  second  visit  to  the 
Barutse  country. 

These  men  were  very  useful  to  his  expedition  in  exploring  the  River 
Shire,  and  were  of  a  masterful  nature,  easily  imposing  themselves  as  superior 
beings  on  the  timid  Maftanja  people  of  the  Central  Shire.  When  Dr. 
Livingstone  had  to  leave  the  country,  anxious  to  put  a  check  on  the 
depredations  of  the  Yao  coming  from  the  east,  and  the  Angoni  coming  from 
the  west,  he  armed  these  Makololo,  and  left  them  behind  to  protect  the 
Maftanja  natives.  The  result  was  that  they  very  soon  constituted  themselves 
the  chiefs  of  that  country,  and  they  subsequently  played  a  most  important 
part  in  checking  the  advances  of  the  Yao  and  the  Angoni,  and  in  sturdily 
resisting  any  attempts  on  the  part  of  the  Portuguese  to  conquer  the  Shire 
countries. 

In  1874  Mr.  Faulkner,  who  was  one  of  the  party  accompanying  Lieut. 
Young,  R.N.,  returned  to  the  Shire  as  a  hunter  of  big  game.  He  was,  I 
believe,  eventually  killed  by  the  natives.  He  had  a  son  by  a  native  wife 
who  now  bears  his  name,  and  who  was  the  first  half-caste,  so  far  as  we  know^ 
born  in  the  Protectorate. 

Livingstone's  death  caused  a  tremendous  enthusiasm  to  spring  up  for  the 
continuation  of  his  work  as  a  Missionary  and  as  an  Explorer.  Cameron 
completed  Burton's  and  Livingstone's  map  of  Lake  Tanganyika ;  Stanley,  at 
the  expense  of  the  Daily  Telegi'aph,  continued  the  exploration  of  the  Cong^o 
from  Nyangwe,  where  Livingstone  had  left  it,  to  the  Atlantic  Ocean  ;  but  in 
Nyasaland  proper  Livingstone's  work  was  immediately  continued  by  the  Scotch 
Missionaries.  The  Livingstonia  Free  Church  Mission  was  founded  in  1874 
and  sent  out  its  first  party  of  Missionaries  with  a  small  steamer  in  sections, 
for  Lake  Nyasa,  in  1875.  They  were  joined,  in  1876,  by  the  Pioneers  of 
the  Church  of  Scotland  Mission,  who  ch(jse  the  site  of  the  present  town  of 
Blantyre,  and  established  themselves  in  the  Shire  Highlands,  while  the  Free 
Church  applied  itself  to  the  evangelisation  of  Lake  Nyasa.  It  is  interesting 
to  note  that'  the  leader  of  the  first  Missionary  expedition — Dr.  Laws — who 
went  out  in  1875,  and  the  engineer  of  the  first  Mission  steamer  placed  on 
Lake  Nyasa  (the  Ilala,  which  is  still  plying),  Mr.  A.  C.  Simpson,  are  still  alive 
and  well,  and  hard  at  work  in  Nyasaland,  the  one  as  a  senior  member  of  the 
Mission  he  has  served  so  devotedly  for  twenty-one  years,  and  the  other  as  a 
prosperous  planter  at  Mlanje. 

Shortly  after  the  Church  of  Scotland  Mission  had  established  itself  at 
Blantyre,  a  young  gardener,  named  John  Buchanan,  was  sent  from  Scotland  to 
assist  the  Mission  in  horticulture.  ^ 

In  1878  Captain  Frederick  Elton  had  been  appointed  Consul  at  Mo9ambique, 
and  had  obtained  permission  to  conduct  an  expedition  to  Lake  Nyasa  to  report 

'  Barutse  is  stated  to  be  derived  from  *'Bahurutse"  the  name  of  another  of  the  Bechuana  septs 
These  Bechuana  emij^rants  who  sometimes  called  themselves  the  Makololo  had  conquered  the  Barutse 
country,  from  its  native  chiefs  of  Baloi  race.     But  as  a  matter  of  fact  these  famous  Makololo  porters  who 
have  played  such  a  part  in  the  history*  of  Nyasaland  were  very  few  of  them  of  Bechuana  blood.      Many  of 
them  were  slaves  of  lialoi,  or  kindred  races  of  the  Upper  Zambezi.     . 
t  '^  lie  was  the  means  of  introducing  and  planting  the  coft'cc  shrub  in  Central  Africa. 


HISTORY  67 

on  the  slave  trade.  He  was  accompanied  by  Mr.  H.  B.  Cotterill,  Mr.  Herbert 
Rhodes,^  and  Captain  Hoste. 

With  the  aid  of  the  Httle  Mission  steamer  Ilala  Consul  Elton  explored  the 
north  end  of  Lake  Nyasa,  which  he  was  able  to  show  extended  much  farther 
northwards  than  had  been  supposed  by  Livingstone  and  Kirk.  This  northward 
extension  of  the  Lake  was  further  verified  a  few  years  afterwards  by  numerous 
observations  for  Latitude  taken  by  Mr.  James  Stewart,  an  engineer  in  the 
employ  of  the  African  Lakes  Company.  Consul  Elton  first  made  known  to  us 
the  remarkable  Livingstone  or  Ukinga  Mountains,  at  the  end  of  Lake  Nyasa, 
which  attain  an  altitude,  in  parts,  of  nearly  10,000  feet.  Unhappily  Consul 
Elton  died  in  Wunyamwezi  on  his  way  to  Zanzibar. 

The  Missions  had  not  been  long  established  when  they  found  it  impossible 


MANDALA   HOUSE,    NEAR   BLANTYRE 

to  conduct  the  necessary  trade  with  the  natives  (for  provisions  could  only 
be  obtained  by  barter)  and  the  transport  service  between  the  coast  and  Lake 
Xyasa,  in  addition  to  the  ordinary  Missionary  work  ;  so  it  was  resolved,  in 
Scotland,  to  found  a  small  Company  for  trade  and  transport,  subsequently 
styled  "The  African  Lakes  Company,"  which  would  be  affiliated  to  the 
Missions  (in  so  far  that  its  employes  should  be  required  to  do  a  certain  amount 
of  missionary  work),  but  be  conducted  independently  and  on  a  commercial 
basis.  Two  brothers,  John  William  Moir  and  Frederick  Maitland  Moir,  were 
sent  to  Nyasaland  as  joint  managers.  They  had  been  previously  at  work  in 
the  employ  of  the  late  Sir  William  Mackinnon,  on  a  road  to  Lake  Tanganyika 
which  that  philanthropist  intended  to  construct  inland  from  Dar-es-Salam, 
opposite  Zanzibar.     The  headquarters  of  the  Lakes  Company  were  fixed  at 

'  Mr.  Herbert  Rhodes  was  a  brother  of  Mr.  (now  the  Right  Honourable)  Cecil  j.  Rhodes,  and  had 
Cfjme  to  Nyasaland  to  shoot  big  game.  He  accompanied  Consul  hlton  as  far  as  the  north  end  of  Lake 
Nyasa,  and  then  returned  to  the  Upper  Shire,  where  he  established  himself  for  some  time  shooting 
elephants.  He  gained  a  great  reputation  amongst  the  natives  for  bravery  and  fair  dealing,  and  is 
.still  spoken  of  by  the  older  men  at  the  present  day  under  the  name  of  **  Roza."  He  was  burned  to  death 
in  1880  by  the  accidental  setting  on  fire  of  his  hut. 


68  BRITISH   CENTRAL   AFRICA 

**  Mandala  "  (now  a  suburb  of  Blantyre),  about  one  mile  from  the  headquarters 
of  the  Church  of  Scotland  Mission.  Mr.  John  Moir  built  a  substantial  house 
there,  which  still  endures ;  and  as  he  wore  spectacles  he  was  called  by  the 
natives  "  Mandala,"  a  name  meaning  **  glass.'*  This  nickname  was  soon  applied 
to  his  residence,  and  gradually  came  to  mean  both  the  African  Lakes  Company, 
and  the  place  where  they  settled  near  Blantyre.  Mandala  is  now  the  official 
name  of  the  headquarters  of  the  African  Lakes  Company  and  of  an  important 
suburb  of  Blantyre. 

The  Church  of  Scotland  Mission  in  those  days — that  is  to  say  at  the  end  of 
the  seventies — was  under  the  direction  of  two  able -men,  the  Rev.  Alexander 
Duff  and  the  late  Mr.  Henry  Henderson,  the  latter  being  the  business  manager 
and  the  principal  lay  member;  but  it  had  attached  to  it  also  certain  lay 
members  who  were  either  badly  chosen,  or  who  developed  into  bad  characters 
when  they  came  into  contact  with  African  savagery.  It  is  only  necessary  to 
specify  one  of  these — George  Fen  wick — whose  name  cannot  be  ignored  in  the 
history  of  this  Protectorate.  These  men  soon  began  to  treat  the  natives  with 
great  harshness,  and  taking  advantage  of  the  dread  in  which  white  men  were 
held,  to  bully  and  extort,  and  raise  themselves  almost  to  the  position  of  petty 
chiefs.  Indeed,  in  reviewing  all  that  has  happened  since  -  Europeans  settled 
in  this  part  of  Africa,  I  have  been  increasingly  struck  with  the  rapidity  with 
which  such  members  of  the  white  race  as  are  not  of  the  best  class,  can  throw 
over  the  restraints  of  civilisation  and  develop  into  savages  of  unbridled  lust  and 
abominable  cruelty.  These  lay  members  of  the  Mission  attempted  to  exercise 
a  kind  of  jurisdiction  over  the  natives  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Mission  stations, 
and  so  severe  were  their  punishments  that  one  native  was  sentenced  to  death 
and  was  shot,  while  other  natives  actually  died  from  tjie  awful  floggings 
they  received.  Two  English  sportsmen,  returning  from  Nyasaland,  conveyed 
the  news  of  these  outrages  to  the  consular  authorities  io  Portuguese  East 
Africa ;  the  Foreign  Office  took  up  the  matter,  and  eventually  the  Church 
of  Scotland  Mission  sent  out  commissioners  to  hold  an  enquiry  into  the 
charges.  Mr.  Nunes,  H.  M.  Vice-Consul  at  *^Quelimane,  represented  Her 
Majesty*s  Government  on  this  enquiry,  which  resulted  in  the  charges  being 
in  great  measure  proved.^  The  ordained  minister  who  was  at  the  head  of  the 
Mission  at  Blantyre  resigned ;  though  no  blame  was  imputed  to  him,  as  he  did 
not  possess  the  means  of  controlling  the  actions  of  his  subordinates.  But  after 
what  had  occurred  he  preferred  to  withdraw  from  the  Mission*  Mr.  John 
Buchanan  also  at  this  time  left  the  Mission,  and  set  up  for  himself  in- 
dependently, as  a  coffee  planter.  George  Fenwick  and  other  lay  members 
of  the  Mission,  who  were  implicated  in  the  deeds*  referred  to,  were  dismissed, 
and  the  first-mentioned  went  to  live  among  the  natives  as  an  elephant  hunter 
In  1 88 1  the  Revs.  D.  C.  Scott  and  Alexander  Hetherwick  came  out  to  Africa 
and  took  charge  of  the  Church  of  Scotland  Mission,  implanting  on  its  work 
a  very  different  character  to  the  ill-fame  which  had  temporarily  clouded  its 
earlier  days  owing  to  the  misdeeds  of  its  lay  assistants.  The  indirect  result, 
however,  of  the  increasing  British  settlement  in  Nyasaland^  was  to  induce  Her 
Majesty's  Government  to  establish  a  British  Consul  for  Nyasa,  and  in  1883 

*  The  evidence  gathered  by  this  commission  makes  very  painful  reading,  and  further  ex|)atiation  on 
this  subject  is  tieither  necessary  nor  desirable. 

*  See  an  excellently  written  book  called  Africaiia^  by  the  Rev.  Alexander  Duff  (Sampson  Low  &  Co.) 
— one  of  the  best  books  ever  written  on  Africa. 

^  By  this  time  the  African  Lakes  Company  had  placed  their  small  steamer.  The  Lady  Nyasa^  on  the 
Zambezi. 


HISTORY  69 

Capt.  Foot,  R.N.,  went  to  Blantyre  with  his  wife  and  children,  taking  with  him 
Mr.  D.  Rankin  as  private  secretary. 

During  all  these  years  the  Makololo  chiefs  had  become  increasingly  powerful. 
At  first  they  had  seemed  disposed  to  welcome  the  British,  but  there  were  times 
when  they  became  arrogant  and  exacting  in  their  demands.  Still,  on  the 
whole,  they  were  a  valuable  counterpoise  to  the  aggressive  Yao,  some  of  whom 
became  highway  robbers  and  rifled  the  Mission  and  African  Lakes  Company's 
caravans.  There  were  two  of  the  Makololo  chiefs  specially  prominent — 
Ramakukane  and  Chipatula.  Ramakukane  was  seemingly  of  real  Makololo 
origin,  and  had  been  the  son  of  a  chief  or  headman  in  the  Barutse  country, 
who  had  accompanied  Livingstone  back  to  Nyasaland,  after  his  second  visit 
to  the  Barutse  country.  Chipatula  was  one  of  Livingstone's  old  porters. 
Ramakukane  was  established  fit  Katunga  on  the  Central  Shire,  and  Chipatula 
at  or  near  the  modem  Chiromo,  where  the  river  Ruo  joins  the  Shire,  and  where 
the  present  Anglo-Portuguese  boundary  runs.  Ramakukane  was,  on  the  whole, 
friendly  to  the  Europeans.  Chipatula  chiefly  concerned  himself  in  repelling 
the  attempts  of  the  black  Portuguese  from  the  Zambezi  to  establish  themselves 
as  slave  traders  on  the  Shire.  He  not  only  kept  these  half-castes  at  bay,  but 
even  extended  his  rule  far  down  the  Shire  towards  the  Zambezi.  The  George 
Fenwick  of  whom  I  have  made  mention,  after  leaving  the  service  of  the 
Mission  had  set  up  for  himself  as  a  trader  and  elephant  hunter.  He  was  a 
headstrong,  lawless  man,  who  inspired  fear  and  admiration  alternately,  in  the 
minds  of  the  natives.  He  had  had  several  commercial  transactions  in  selling 
ivory  for  Chipatula,  and  visited  that  chief  at  Chiromo  in  1884  to  settle  accounts 
with  him.  Both  men  had  been  drinking  spirits ;  Chipatula  refused  to  accept 
Fenwick  s  version  of  accounts  and  applied  opprobrious  terms  to  him.  Fenwick 
started  up  in  a  rage  and  shot  Chipatula  dead.  Before  the  chiefs  astonished 
followers  could  take  any  action  he  rushed  out  of  the  hut  towards  the  river 
shore,  and  shouted  to  them,  "  Yoiir  chief  is  dead,  I  am  your  chief  now,"  but 
seeing  that  the  natives  were  rather  more  inclined  to  avenge  Chipatula  s  death 
than  to  adopt  his  slayer  as  his  successor,  he  got  into  a  canoe  at  the  river  side, 
and  paddled  across  the  river  to  Malo  Island.  Here  for  three  days  he  led  a 
wretched  existence  attempting  to  defend  himself  from  the  attacks  of  the 
natives.  He  was  at  last  overcome  and  killed,  and  his  head  was  cut  off*.  The 
Makololo  chiefs  then  became  quite  inimical  to  the  white  settlers.  They  shot 
at  and  sunk  the  little  steamer  Lady  Nyasa,  and  they  sent  an  insolent  message 
to  Blantyre,  demanding  that  Mrs.  Fenwick,  the  wife  of  the  adventurer,  should 
be  delivered  over  to  them,  together  with  an  enormous  sum  as  compensation 
for  the  death  of  Chipatula.  Consul  Foot  finally  succeeded,  with  the  help  of 
Ramakukane,  in  restoring  peace,  and  Mr.  John  Moir  recovered  the  Lady  Nyasa, 
Consul  Foot,  however,  died  not  long  afterwards  from  the  effects  of  the  fatigue 
and  anxiety  he  had  undergone.  Chipatula  was  succeeded  by  a  man  named 
Mlauri,  also  one  of  Livingstone's  men,  but  not  friendly  to  the  British ;  and  old 
Ramakukane  died.  The  demeanour  of  the  Makololo  as  the  years  went  by 
became  increasingly  insolent  and  hostile  towards  the  Europeans,  English  as 
well  as  Portuguese. 

In  1 88 1  a  fresh  element  of  British  influence  had  appeared  on  the  shores 
of  Lake  Nyasa,  in  the  arrival  of  the  Rev.  W.  P.  Johnson  and  Mr.  Charles 
Janson,  of  the  Universities  Mission  to  Central  Africa — that  Mission  whose  first 
bishop,  Mackenzie,  had  died  near  Chiromo  on  the  Shire  in  1862.  It  will  be 
remembered  that  the  Universities  Mission  had  been  founded  at  the  instance 


70  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

of  Livingstone,  but  after  establishing  itself  in  the  Shire  highlands  in  1862  had 
been  obliged  to  quit  that  country  owing  to  the  hostilities  shown  by  the  Yao. 
Since  that  time  the  Mission  had  concentrated  itself  at  Zanzibar,  and  had 
founded  stations  on  the  East  Coast  of  Africa.  That  really  great  man,  Bishop 
Steere,  the  third  of  the  Missionary  bishops  to  Central  Africa,  had  set  his  heart 
on  reopening  work  in  Nyasaland.  He  walked  overland  from  the  Indian 
Ocean  to  the  east  coast  of  the  lake.  Subsequently  Lake  Nyasa  was  reached 
by  the  Rev.  W.  P.  Johnson,  accompanied  by  Mr.  Charles  Janson.  The  latter 
fell  ill,  and  died  on  the  shores  of  Lake  Nyasa  In  his  will  he  bequeathed  a 
sum  of  money  for  the  construction  of  a  Mission  steamer  to  be  placed  on  the 
lake.  Other  subscriptions  were  raised,  and  eventually  the  Charles  Janson  was 
launched  on  Lake  Nyasa,  where  she  still  exists.  The  Rev.  Chauncey  Maples 
and  other  recruits  from  the  Mission  had  meantime  joined  Mr.  Johnson.  Bishop 
Steere  had  been  succeeded  by  Bishop  Smythies,^  who  if  anything  took  an 
increased  interest  in  the  establishment  of  his  Mission  on  Lake  Nyasa,  to  which 
lake  he  paid  repeated  visits.  The  Rev.  Chauncey  Maples  was  made  Arch- 
deacon of  Nyasa.2  Seeing  the  troublous  condition  of  the  Yao  countries,  and 
the  shores  of  Lake  Nyasa,  where  the  unfortunate  A-nyanja  inhabitants  were 
alternately  raided  by  Magwangwara,*  Arabs  and  Yao,  the  Universities  Mission 
resolved  to  establish  its  headquarters  on  the  Island  of  Likoma,  which  is  distant 
about  eight  miles  from  the  east  coast  of  Lake  Nyasa,  and  consequently  is  not 
so  subject  to  the  attacks  of  the  Magwangwara  or  Yao. 

The  Livingstonia  Mission  under  the  able  guidance  of  Dr.  Robert  Laws,  M.D. 
had  been  for  years  making  steady  progress  on  the  west  coast  of  Lake  Nyasa, 
Their  first  experiments  at  Cape  Maclear,*  a  promontory  which  divides  the 
southern  end  of  the  lake  into  two  gulfs,  were  not  very  successful.  The  settle- 
ment of  Livingstonia, — which  still  exists  but  where  only  native  adherents  of 
the  Mission  dwell  at  the  present  time, — proved  to  be  extremely  unhealthy  for 
Europeans,  and  many  missionaries  died  there.  Dr.  Laws  decided,  therefore, 
to  transfer  the  headquarters  of  the  Mission  to  Bandawe,  about  midway  up  the 
west  coast  of  the  lake,  a  place  in  the  middle  of  the  Atonga  country.  Here  the 
Free  Church  Mission  was  confronted  with  an  immediate  difficulty  in  the  shape 
of  the  Angoni-Zulu  of  the  interior,  who  were  gradually  exterminating  and 
enslaving  the  indigenous  people  of  the  lake-coast,  known  as  the  Atonga,  who 
were  related  in  origin  to  the  A-nyanja  stock.  The  Free  Church  Mission, 
therefore,  set  itself  to  work  to  conciliate  the  Angoni,  and  obtained  such 
influence  over  them,  after  some  years,  that  they  stopped  to  a  great  extent  their 
raids  over  the  coast  people.  At  any  rate  the  Mission  stations  served  as  a 
harbour  of  refuge  for  the  harried  Atonga,  who  were  eventually  able  to  recover 
their  position  and  assert  themselves  against  the  invaders. 

About  the  end  of  the  seventies  the  London  Missionary  Society  resolved 
to  take  up  Tanganyika  as  a  sphere  of  work.  Their  journeys  thither  were  made 
overland  from  Zanzibar ;  but  when  they  decided  to  have  a  steamer  placed 
on  Tanganyika  they  found  it  easier  to  send  its  sections  by  the  Lake  Nyasa 
route.  The  explorer,  Joseph  Thomson,  had  reached  the  north  end  of  Lake 
Nyasa  in   1880,  and  had  journeyed  thence  to  Tanganyika.     This  exploration 

^  Died  at  sea  on  his  way  back  to  England  in  1 894,  worn  out  by  ten  years  of  incessant  toil  and  physical 
fatigue. 

*  Became  Bishop  of  Likoma  in  1895,  ^-"^  was  drowned  in  Lake  Nyasa  a  few  months  after^vards  by 
the  capsizing  of  his  boat  in  a  storm. 

•*  A  section  of  the  Angoni-Zulu.  established  east  of  I^ke  Nyasa. 

"*  Named  by  Livingstone  after  the  Astronomer- Royal  of  Cape  Town. 


HISTORY  -  71 

had  assisted  in  fixing  the  relative  position  of  the  two  lakes  and  showing  that 
the  land  transit  between  them  did  not  much  exceed  200  miles.  The  African 
Lakes  Company  were  entrusted  with  the  contract  for  conveying  the  London 
Missionary  Society's  steamer  from  Nyasa  to  Tanganyika,  an  enterprise  success- 
fully accomplished  in  1885.  Mr.  James  Stevenson,  a  director  of  the  Lakes 
Company,  was  struck  with  the  idea  of  making  a  permanent  road  from  lake 
to  lake,  and  subscribed  a  sum  of,  I  believe,  ;f  2000  or  ;£'3000,  for  the  purpose 
of  making  preliminary  surveys.  The  Stevenson  road,  however,  was  never 
completed,  but  the  route  it  was  to  follow  was  roughly  cleared  for  about  sixty 
miles  from  Lake  Nyasa.  The  engineers  concerned  in  this  work  died  of  fever, 
and  further  operations  were  checked  by  the  outbreak  of  war  with  the  Arabs. 
The  London  Missionary  Society  did  not,  at  first,  think  much  of  the  Lake 
Nyasa  route  to  Tanganyika,  but  preferred  the  overland  journey  from  Zanzibar. 
They  therefore  devoted  their  attention  more  to  the  middle  portion  of  the  lake, 
especially  the  west  coast  opposite  to  Ujiji,  and  established  themselves  here 
on  the  island  of  Kavala.  The  unhealthiness  of  this  place,  however,  and  the 
troubles  which  began  to  arise  on  Tanganyika  after  the  first  Belgian  expeditions, 
and  from  the  subsequent  uprising  against  the  Germans,  obliged  the  London 
Missionary  Society's  agents  to  alter  their  plans.  They  transferred  their 
establishments  to  the  south  end  of  the  lake,  in  order  to  be  brought  into  more 
direct  communication  with  the  British  .settlements  in  Nyasaland. 

The  first  serious  danger  which  may  be  said  to  have  menaced  the  infant 
settlements  in  Nyasaland,  was  the  trouble  with  the  Makololo  chiefs,  to  which  I 
have  already  referred.  The  next  danger,  and  a  much  more  serious  one, 
arose  from  the  conflict  with  the  Arabs  who  had  settled  at  the  north  end  of 
Lake  Nyasa.  When  Livingstone  and  Kirk  first  explored  Lake  Nyasa  they 
practically  only  found  the  Arabs  established  in  a  few  places — at  one  or  other 
of  the  ports  on  what  is  now  the  Portuguese  coast  of  Lake  Nyasa,  and  at 
Kotakota  on  the  western  shore  of  the  lake ;  ^  at  which  latter  place  Livingstone 
visited  an  Arab  settlement  under  the  control  of  a  person  called  "Jumbe," 
who  was  a  coast  Arab,  and  a  representative  or  wali  of  the  Sultan  of  Zanzibar. 
Jumbe  means  "prince"  on  the  mainland  opposite  Zanzibar,  and  the  Sultan  had 
no  doubt  chosen  as  his  representative  a  man  who  went  to  Nyasa  for  trade 
purposes  principally,  but  who  was  of  sufficiently  good  standing  to  exercise 
some  show  of  authority,  in  the  Sultan's  name,  over  the  Arabs  wandering  in 
those  regions.  When  I  use  the  term  "  Arabs  "  I  mean  both  Arabs  with  white 
skins  of  pure  blood  (and  usually  natives  of  'Oman  or  of  Southern  Arabia) 
and  every  degree  of  intermixture  and  type  between  the  Arab  and  the  negro, 
so  that  some  of  our  so-called  Arabs  in  Nyasaland  are  quite  black,  though  in 
the  shape  of  their  features  or  in  their  beards,  they  may  retain  traces  of  the 
intermixture  of  a  superior  race.  But  all  these  so-called  Arabs  are  sharply 
distinguished  from  the  ordinary  negroes  by  dressing  in  Arab  costume,  using  the 
Arabic  language,  and  by  being  stricter  and  more  intelligent  in  their  practices 
of  the  Muhammadan  religion. 

The  first  interference  of  the  Arabs  with  Nyasaland  was  merely  to  secure 
a  passage  across  the  lake  in  their  caravan  journeys  to  the  countries  of  Senga, 
Lubisa,  and  Luwemba,  which  journeys  were  undertaken  for  ivory,  or  slaves,  and 
had  commenced,  as  I  have  already  related,  by  their  following  back  into  South 
Central  Africa  the  Babisa  caravans  that  formerly  traded  with  Zanzibar.     The 

*  **  Ngotangota  " — as  the  natives  call  it,  the  Arabs  having  corrupted  the  name  into  the  easier  pronun- 
ciation of  Kotakota. 


72 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


Arabs,  however,  soon  established  themselves  in  strong  stockades  in  the  Senga 
country,  through  which  the  great  Luangwa  River  flows.  Then  they  began 
to  adopt,  as  an  alternative  route  to  the  journey  across  Lake  Nyasa,  the  direct 
journey  from  Zanzibar  overland  across  the  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau  ;  and 
gradually  the  strong  Arab  dominion  on  Lake  Tanganyika  became  connected 
with  the  settlements  in  the  Senga  country  and  on  Lake  Nyasa.     The  Arabs 

had  also  found  a  friend  and  ally  in  Merere,  an 
intelligent  and  enterprising  chief  of  the  Wa-sango 
people,  who  had  his  capital  in  the  high  mountainous 
region  to  the  north  of  Lake  Nyasa.  In  their  journeys 
to  and.  fro  between  Senga  and  the  sea  coast,  by  way 
of  the  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  the  Arabs  became 
struck  with  the  magnificent  fertility  and  the  wealth 
in  cattle  of  the  Nkonde  country  at  the  north  end  of 
Lake  Nyasa.  A  certain  Zanzibar  Arab,  named  Mlozi,^ 
appears  to  have  commenced  by  trading  in  the  country, 

L^VK  ^B  and  gradually  proceeded  to  surround  his  trade  estab- 
^^k^^^^  ^  lishments  with  stockades  and  by  degrees  take  forcible 
^H^L  1       possession  of  this  delectable  land.     Mlozi  had,  with 

^^^H  (       several  other*  Arabs,  established  strong  trading  stations 

^^^H     r-—       in  the  Senga  country,  and  was  almost  a  prince  among 
L.  MONTEiTii  FOTHERiNGHAM      slave  traders.    But  Mlozi's  schemes  were  not  to  be  so 

easily  accomplished.  Prior  to  his  settlement  in  the 
Nkonde  country,  or  simultaneous  with  it  at  any  rate,  the  Lakes  Company  had 
obtained  a  footing  at  Karonga  for  the  purpose  of  opening  up  communication 
with  Lake  Tanganyika. 

The  Lakes  Company  had  employed  amongst  other  Europeans  two  notable 
men  to  conduct  the  expeditions  which  transported  the  London  Missionary 
Society's  steamer  in  sections  from  Nyasa  to  Tanganyika.  These  men  were 
Low  Monteith  Fotheringham  and  John  Lowe  Nicoll.  Mr.  Fotheringham  had 
become  finally  their  agent  at  Karonga,  on  the  north- 
west coast  of  Lake  Nyasa,  while  Mr.  Nicoll  was  chiefly 
employed  on  Tanganyika  and  in  going  backwards  and 
forwards  between  Nyasa  and  Tanganyika.  Fothering- 
ham was  a  man  of  very  strong  character  and  upright 
disposition,  severe  occasionally  with  the  natives  in 
maintaining  the  laws  which  he  laid  down  for  the 
maintenance  of  order,  but  of  great  bravery,  and 
absolutely  just  in  his  dealings.  No  qualities  ensure 
a  man  greater  favour  amongst  the  negroes  than 
mingled  firmness  and  justice ;  and  the  natives  of  the 
north  end  of  Lake  Nyasa,  the  Mambwe  of  the  Nyasa- 
Tanganyika  plateau,  and  the  Atonga  of  West  Nyasa, 
came  by  degrees  to  look  upon  Mr.  Fotheringham  ^  as 
their  natural  leader  and  champion.  The  Arabs  under 
Mlozi  began  to  press  their  rule  on  the  Nkonde  people. 
The  Wankonde  looked  to  Fotheringham  for  advice  and  protection.  Fothering- 
ham was  at  first  disinclined  to  interfere  in  the  quarrels,  as  he  feared  that  the 

^  Mlozi  means  in  Swahili   '*  an  almond  tree " ;  but  I  expect  the  real  derivation  of  the  word  is 
from  Mulozi  (=  a  sorcerer)  in  the  dialects  spoken  in  the  Senga  and  Bisa  countries. 
*  Whom  they  called  Montisi,  from  an  Africanising  of  his  second  name. 


JOHN    LOWE   NICOLL 


HISTORY 


73 


results  of  a  fight  with  the  Arabs  might  seriously  prejudice  the  Lakes  Company's 
position,  and  cut  off  communication  with  Lake  Tanganyika ;  but  he  was  not 
long  left  the  choice  of  remaining  neutral,  for  the  Arabs  appear  to  have  come  to 
the  conclusion  that  the  conquest  of  all  the  Nkonde  country  was  impossible 
until  they  had  first  driven  out  the  British  traders  and  Missionaries ;  for  two 
missionaries,  the  Rev.  Mr.  Bain  and  Dr.  Kerr  Cross,^  had  already  settled  at  the 
north  end  of  Lake  Nyasa  in  the  service  of  the  Free  Church  Mission.  Of 
course  much  of  the  friction  that  had  arisen  between  the  Arabs  and  the  Lakes 
Company's  agent  came  from  the  undoubted  sympathy  which  the  British  traders 
showed  for  the  Wankonde  in  their  hopeless  struggle  against  the  Arab  forces. 
One  fact  may  be  cited  in  particular  as  an  example  of  the  atrocious  way  in 


GROUP  OF   WANKONDE    ^NORTH    NYASA) 


which  the  Arabs  conducted  this  war  of  conquest.  The  Wankonde,  who  were 
entirely  and  only  armed  with  spears,  had  been  defeated  in  an  engagement  with 
the  Arabs,  and  took  refuge  on  the  banks  of  the  Kambwe  lagoon,  on  the  shore 
of  Lake  Nyasa.  The  Arabs  surrounded  them,  set  fire  to  the  dry  reeds,  and 
compelled  the  wretched  Wankonde  to  enter  the  water,  where  hundreds  of  them 
were  devoured  by  crocodiles,  and  large  numbers  w^ere  shot,  stabbed,  or 
drowned.^  Several  refugees  from  this  and  other  fights  found  their  way  into  the 
Lakes  Company's  station,  which  was  then  unfortified.  Mr.  Fotheringham's 
refusal  to  give  them  up  and  his  answering  the  Arab  threats  by  commencing  to 
fortify  Karonga  were  no  doubt  the  causes  which  decided  the  Arabs  to  make 
an  attack  on  the  Karonga  station.      Fortunately  before  this  attack  took  place 

^  Dr.  Kerr  Cross  is  slill  serving  as  a  medical  missionary  in  this  part  of  Africa,  where  he  has  done 
great  good  amongst  the  natives,  as  well  as  having  nursed  into  recovery  many  sick  Europeans. 

^  For  a  faithful  description  of  these  horrors  see  pp.  80,  81,  and  82  of  the  late  Mr.  Fotheringham's 
lxx>k  Adventures  in  Nyasaland  (Sampson  Low). 


74 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


reinforcements  were  received.  Mr.  Nicoll  arrived  from  Tanganyika  and  the 
little  steamer  Ilala  returned  from  South  Nyasa  bringing  Consul  O'Neill,  of 
Mozambique,  and  Mr.  Alfred  Sharpe  and  two  other  gentlemen  who  had  decided 
to  come  to  the  rescue  of  the  Europeans  threatened  by  the  Arabs. 

Karonga   was   attacked   and   besieged    for   days   though   the    Arabs   were 
finally  repulsed  after  desperate  fighting ;   but  eventually  the  British  position 

became  untenable,  and  after  communicating  the 
news  of  his  dangerous  situation  to  the  Manager 
at  Mandala,  Mr.  Fotheringham,  Mr.  Nicoll,  and 
the  others  who  had  joined  them,  decided  to  with- 
draw with  the  Wankonde  chiefs  into  a  part  of 
the  country  where  they  would  be  better  sheltered 
from  the  Arab  attack.  They  removed  most  of 
their  goods  in  canoes,  abandoned  the  station  at 
Karonga,  and  remained  in  the  country  at  the 
extreme  north  end  of  the  lake  until  reinforce- 
ments arrived.  Amongst  the  volunteers  who 
came  to  their  aid,  were  Mr.  Consul  Hawes  and 
Mr.  John  Moir.  The  arrival  of  these  slight 
reinforcements    and    the    aid    of    five    thousand 


natives    enabled    Mr.    Fotheringham    to    attack. 


JOHN   W.    MOIR 


enter,  and  partially  destroy  Mlozi's  stockade  at 
Mpata  (in  which  attack  both  Mr.  Alfred  Sharpe 
and  Mr.  John  Moir  were  wounded).  But  the  native  allies  abandoned  the 
stockade  after  having  loaded  themselves  with  loot  and  the  whites  had  to 
retreat  without  consummating  their  defeat  of  the  Arabs  by  the  destruction 
of  all  their  stockades.  After  this  all  the  volunteers  returned  to  South 
Nyasa  and  Messrs.  Fotheringham,  Nicoll,  and  Kerr  Cross  lived  for  a  time 
at  Chirenje,  to  the  north-west  of  Karonga,  while  the  Arabs  regained  to  some 
extent  their  former  position,  though  they  never  were  able  actively  to  assume  the 
offensive.  Early  in  March,  more  volunteers  returned  to  North  Nyasa.  With 
them  came  Mr.  John  Buchanan  (Acting  Consul)  and  Mr.  Fred  Moir,  joint 
manager  of  the  Lakes  Co.  Mr.  Buchanan  attempted 
to  negotiate  a  peace  with  the  Arabs,  but  the  negotia- 
tions had  no  result.  Hostilities  were  then  resumed, 
but  Mr.  Fred  Moir  was  severely  wounded,  and  again 
owing  to  the  vacillation  of  their  native  allies  the  British 
failed  to  score  any  great  success. 

When  the  news  of  this  fighting  at  the  north  end  of 
Lake  Nyasa  reached  the  outer  world,  several  gentlemen 
volunteered  to  assist  the  Lakes  Company,  the  principal 
among  these  being  Capt.  Lugard,^  who  was  constituted 
by  the  Lakes  Company  the  Commander  of  their  forces 
in  North  Nyasa.  Capt.  Lugard  was  subsequently  re- 
joined by  Mr.  Alfred  Sharpe,^  by  Mr.  Richard  Crawshay 
(who  had  also  come  to  the  country  as  a  hunter),  by  Mr.  John  Moir,  and  others. 

*  Now  Major  Lugard,  c.B. 
Now  Her  Majesty's  Deputy  Commi.ssioner  and  Consul.  Mr.  Sharpe  originally  came  to  Nyasaland 
to  hunt  elephants  and  big  game,  but  hearing  of  the  Lakes  Company's  distress  he  came  to  their  assistance 
with  Consul  O'Neill  in  the  manner  above  related.  After  being  wounded  and  proceeding  to  the 
south  to  recover  he  returned  with  Captain  Lugard  and  fought  out  the  rest  of  the  cami:)aign,  marching 
up  overland  at  the  head  of  a  large  number  of  Atonga. 


FREDERICK    MAITLAND   MOIR 


HISTORY 


75 


Mr.  Frederick  Moir,  whose  arm  had  been  severely  wounded,  had  returned  to 
Scotland  to  recover  his  health.  From  thence  he  succeeded  in  sending  out  a 
7-pounder  gun,  as  it  was  felt  the  Arabs  could  only  be  adequately  fought 
with  artillery.  But  unfortunately,  although  this  gun  ultimately  reached  its 
destination,   it   was   not   provided    with    the   right   kind  of  ammunition.      Its 


MR.    ALFRED  SHARPE    IN    189O 

shells  merely  drilled  round  holes  in  the  tough  stockades  which,  being  made  of 
withes  and  mud,  did  not  offer  sufficient  resistance  for  a  real  breach  to  be  made. 
A  good  deal  of  damage  was  done  to  the  Arabs  who  were  shut  up  in  their 
fortresses  and  much  inconvenienced  for  lack  of  food,  but  the  British;'on  the 
other  hand,  suffered  severely,  having  one  of  their  officers  killed  and  several 
more  or  less  severely  wounded,  besides  the  terrible  ill-heMth  which  resulted 
from  fighting  during  the  rainy  season.  Amongst  the  wounded  was  Captain 
Lugard  who  returned  to   Blantyre,  got  his  wound  partially  healed,  and  then 


76  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

once  more  took  command  at  Karonga.  Captain  Lugard  finally  quitted  Nyasa- 
land  in  the  spring  of  1889,  finding  it  impossible  to  bring  the  Arab  war  to 
a  conclusion  without  disciplined  troops  and  efficient  artillery. 

An  attempt  was  made  by  Sir  Charles  Euan-Smith,  Her  Majesty's  Consul- 
General  at  Zanzibar,  to  induce  the  Sultan  of  that  place  to  intervene,  and  to 
bring  the  war  to  a  conclusion  by  compelling  the  Arabs  to  come  to  terms 
with  the  British.  The  Sultan  accordingly  dispatched  an  envoy,  but  he 
commanded  very  little  weight  in  the  councils  of  the  Senga  Arabs,  who 
considered  themselves  quite  independent  of  the  Sultan's  authority. 

The  consequences  of  this  war  with  the  Arabs,  which  was  clearly  known 
by  the  natives  of  Nyasaland  to  be  a  war  for  the  suppression  of  the  slave 
trade,  aroused  a  good  many  expressions  of  ill-feeling  against  the  English  on 
the  part  of  the  Muhammadan  Yao  on  the  east  coast  of  Lake  Nyasa.  Mr. 
John  Buchanan,  who  had  been  Acting  Consul  since  the  departure  on  leave 
of  Mr.  Hawes,  attempted  to  open  up  friendly  relations  with  Makanjira,  the 
Yao  chief  on  the  south-east  coast  of  the  lake.  He  paid  him  a  visit  with  the 
Rev.  W.  P.  Johnson,  in  the  Mission  steamer,  the  Charles  Janson,  To  their 
surprise,  however,  they  had  no  sooner  landed  than  they  were  seized,  stripped 
of  their  clothes,  and  grossly  maltreated  They  were  imprisoned  in  huts, 
and  Makanjira  announced  his  intention  of  killing  them,  and  would  probably 
have  done  so,  but  for  the  persuasion  of  some  Zanzibar  Arabs,  who  represented 
that  their  deaths  would  certainly  be  avenged,  and  that  the  Sultan  of  Zanzibar 
would  hold  them — the  intercessors — responsible,  after  what  had  occurred,  if 
English  subjects  were  killed  in  their  presence,  and  without  remonstrance  on 
their  part.  Makanjira  accordingly  held  his  captives  up  to  ransom.  They 
were  obliged  to  write  to  the  engineer  of  their  steamer,  which  was  in  the 
offing,  to  send  on  shore  an  enormous  supply  of  trade  goods  and  ship's 
stores.  When  these  things  arrived  Makanjira  released  them,  though  he 
neither  restored  their  clothes  nor  the  personal  property  of  which  they  had 
been  robbed.  Mr.  Buchanan,  the  Acting  Consul,  had  even  been  whipped 
with  a  chikote^  by  Makanjira  s  orders — not  severely,  but  just  with  two  or 
three  stripes  to  show  his  contempt  for  the  British. 

After  a  little  vacillation  the  Arabs  of  Tanganyika  had  decided  not  to  join 
with  their  fellow  countrymen  in  the  war  against  the  British,  and  indeed  after 
a  little  more  deliberation,  that  section  under  the  orders  of  Tiputipu^  had 
determined  to  protect  the  British  missionaries  on  Lake  Tanganyika  from 
violence  at  the  hands  of  any  other  Arabs  who  might,  in  consequence  of  their 
uprising  against  the  Germans,  have  resolved  to  assassinate  all  Europeans 
in  the  interior.  Likewise  the  Arab  settlement  at  Kotakota,  which  was  under 
the  third  in  succession  of  '*  Jumbes,"  who  continued  to  be  the  wali  of  the 
Sultan  of  Zanzibar,  resolved  to  remain  neutral.  Generally  speaking,  it  may 
be  said  that  at  this  crisis  the  influence  of  the  Sultan  of  Zanzibar  was  exercised 
strongly  in  favour  of  the  British.  Had  he  not  compelled  peace  and  a  good 
understanding  with  them,  all  the  Arabs  of  Central  Africa  would  have  gladly 
united  in  a  war  to  drive  us  out  of  Lake  Nyasa,  and  would  have  doubtless 
succeeded  in  doing  so,  as  in  those  days  owing  to  difficulties  with  the  Portuguese, 
it  was  found  very  difficult  to  import  supplies  of  guns  and  ammunition. 

The  general  situation  in  British  Central  Africa,  before  I  was  personally 
connected  with  its  fortunes,  was  as  follows. 

^  A  whip  of  hippopotamus  hide. 

^  Whom,  of  course,  the  British  w/7/call  "  Tippoo-tib." 


HISTORY  -j-j 

In  the  Barutse  country,  a  strong  kingdom  of  large  extent,  existed  a  ruling 
caste  of  Bechuana  (who  had  first  organised  the  territories  on  the  Upper 
Zambezi  into  a  large  kingdom,  and  had  been  subsequently  dispossessed  of 
power  to  some  extent  by  revolution)  and  the  descendants  of  the  old  rulers, 
who  were  of  Baloi,  or  Balui,  stock.  These  latter  had  replaced  in  sovereign 
power  the  Bechuana  ^  kings.  But  otherwise  the  government  of  the  Upper 
Zambezi  countries  in  their  political  tendencies  remained  much  what  it  was 
in  the  days  when  Livingstone  first  discovered  Barutseland.  Eastwards  of  the 
Barutse  country,  the  lands  of  the  Bashikulombwe,  of  the  Batonga  and  Manika, 
remained  in  a  state  of  utter  barbarism,  fiercely  recalcitrant  to  European 
researches.  Little  was  known  of  the  country  since  the  explorations  of  Kirk 
and  Livingstone;  Dr.  Emil  Holub,  an  Austrian  explorer,  had  been  repulsed; 
Mr.  Selous,  who  had  penetrated  farthest  into  this  part  of  Central  Africa,  was 
attacked  and  obliged  to  fly  for  his  life;  and  Jesuit  Missionaries  had  either  been 
maltreated,  killed,  or  expelled,  in  their  attempts  to  penetrate  these  countries. 
On  the  lower  part  of  the  great  Luangwa  river,  the  country  was  harried  by  black 
chieftains  from  the  Zambezi,  who  called  themselves  "  Portuguese,"  on  the 
strength  of  remote  Goanese  descent.  In  the  Senga  and  Lubisa  countries. 
Arabs  and  Swahilis  were  carrying  on  the  slave  trade,  and  gradually  establishing 
themselves  in  the  land  by  means  of  building  stockaded  towns.  At  the  south 
end  of  Lake  Tanganyika  there  were  one  or  two  missionaries  settled  and 
building.  At  the  north  end  of  Lake  Nyasa  a  war  between  Arabs  and  Scotch 
traders  had  been  going  on  for  two  years.  Missionaries  were  peacefully  at  work 
in  West  Nyasaland,  but  on  the  east  coast  of  the  lake  their  work  was 
paralysed  by  the  hostility  of  Makanjira.  The  Yao,  who,  since  Livingstone's 
first  arrival  in  the  country,  had  gradually  conquered  much  of  the  Shire 
Highlands,  and  had  established  themselves  at  the  south  end,  and  along  the 
south-east  and  south-west  coasts  of  Lake  Nyasa,  were  engaged,  either  in 
incessant  civil  war  amongst  themselves,  in  attacks  on  their  weaker  neighbours, 
or  in  hostilities  against  the  British,  ^n  thp  Sb'^e  Highlands  coffee-planting  had 
oijyQriy  >v>giin  wryAf^r  ]V[r  Burhanan,  -who-hftd" -been  joined^,  by.  twa  ci  Jiis 
brothers,  and  under  Mr^  Sharrer,  a  .British  subject  of  German  descent,  who 
had  established  hjjn^elf  aa  a.  planter  and  trader  in  Nyasaland.  In  the  Shire"" 
Highlands  the  missionaries  of  the  Church  of  Scotland  Mission  had  acquired  a 
considerable  influence,  an  influence  justly  due  to  their  high  character  and  their 
devotion  to  the  interests  of  the  natives,  but  an  influence  which  at  that  time 
they  were  too  much  inclined  to  exercise  with  the  view  to  governing  the  country 
themselves,  independently  of  Consuls  or  other  representatives  of  Her  Majesty. 
The  rival  to  the  Scotch  Missionaries,  as  a  governing  body,  was  the  African 
Lakes  Company,  which  was  half  hoping  for  a  Charter,  and  was  striving  to 
obtain  from  the  native  chiefs  a  concession  of  governing  rights.  Sometimes 
the  interests  of  the  Lakes  Company  and  the  Mission  were  conflicting,  and 
not  infrequently  the  two  or  three  independent  planters  could  agree  with  neither. 
The  Universities  Mission  was  supposed  to  hold  the  opinion  that  the  war  with 
the  Arabs  was  unwise,  and  owing  to  its  friendly  relations  on  the  lake  with 
the  Arabs  more  or  less  attached  to  the  Sultan  of  Zanzibar,  that  Mission 
did  not  identify  itself  with  any  movement  for  the  expulsion  of  the  Arabs 
from  Nyasaland.  A  French  Evangelical  Mission  had  established  itself  in 
the  Barutse  country,  and  was  acquiring  a  very  great  influence  over  the  natives. - 
The  seat  of  this  Mission,  however,  lay  in   British  South    Africa,   and   so   far 

'  ».tf.,  Makololo.  ^  An  influence  always  used  for  disinterested  and  proper  ends. 


78 


BRITIS:H    central   AFRICA 


as  these  French  Missionaries  had  any  political  sentiments  at  all  they  were 
on  the  side  of  bringing  the  Barutse  under  British  influence.  The  history  of 
Barutseland  is  only  artificially  connected  with  the  rest  of  British  Central 
Africa,  by  the  fact  that  at  present  it  is  included  within  the  same  political 
sphere.  Otherwise  its  history  is  mainly  connected  in  the  past  with  that  of 
British  South  Africa,  and  in  the  future  it  will  unquestionably  become  an 
appanage  of  that  portion  of  the  Empire.^ 

The  greatest  difficulty  which  at  that  time  hampered  the  development  of  the 
eastern  part  of  British  Central  Africa,  was  the  fact  that  it  could  only  be 
approached  from  the  outer  world  through  Portuguese  East  African  Possessions. 
In  those  days,  anyone  wishing  to  proceed  to  Lake  Nyasa,  and  shirking  the 
overland  journey  from  Zanzibar,  which  was  lengthy,  arduous,  and  often  full 
of  risk,  landed  at  Quelimane,  a  little  to  the  north  of  the  Zambezi  delta, 
journeyed  up  the  Kwakwa  River  in  small  boats  to  a  point  called  Mopeia,  then 
crossed  overland,  a  distance  of  three  or  four  miles,  to  Vicenti,  a  trading  station 
on  the  Zambezi.  At  Vicenti  one  was  met  by  either  of  the  African  Lakes 
Company's  two  steamers,  the  James  Steifenson  or  the  Lady  Nyasa y  and  so 
travelled  on  up  the  Zambezi  and  up  the  Shire,  as  far  as  the  season  of  the  year, 
and  consequent  depth  of  the  waters  would  permit,  and  thence  overland 
to  the  British  settlements.  This  route,  however,  compelled  travellers  to  land 
at  the  Portuguese  port  of  Quelimane ;  and  even  assuming  the  Kwakwa  to  be, 
like  the  Zambezi,  an  international  waterway,  a  fact  which  could  not  be  asserted 
and  maintained,  it  was  impossible  to  reach  the  waters  of  the  Zambezi  without 
crossing  a  mile  or  so  of  Portuguese  territory.  No  arrangement  existed  with 
Portugal  to  secure  us  exemption  from  Customs  duties  or  even  graver 
hindrances  that  might  be  placed  in  our  way  by  the  local  Portuguese  authorities, 
and  these  authorities — bearing  in  mind  that  the  boundaries  of  Portuguese  and 
British  influence  in  the  Hinterland  had  not  yet  been  settled — were  naturally 
very  jealous  of  this  immigration  of  British  subjects,  the  said  British  subjects 
being  never  too  careful  of  Portuguese  rights  and  susceptibilities.  It  was  this 
difficulty  with  the  Portuguese  which  had  caused  Her  Majesty's  Government 
in  1863  to  arrive  at  the  conclusion  that  the  Zambezi  expedition  of  Livingstone 
must  be  recalled.  It  was  again  this  difficulty  which  hampered  Her  Majesty's 
Government  in  the  "eighties,"  in  preventing  them  from  affording  active  assistance 
to  the  traders  on  Lake  Nyasa  in  their  war  with  the  Arabs,  and,  indeed,  in 
formulating  any  decisive  policy  in  regard  to  Nyasaland.  Had  it  been  possible 
for  vessels  of  fair  size  and  draught  to  enter  the  river  Zambezi  from  the  sea, 
all  these  difficulties  from  overland  transport  would  have  disappeared.  Her 
Majesty's  Government  had  for  some  time  past  maintained  the  principle  of  the 
freedom  of  navigation  of  the  Zambezi,  but  although  ships  did  occasionally 
succeed  in  getting  over  the  bar  of  the  Kongone  mouth — a  bar  on  which  at 
low  tide  there  was  only  a  depth  of  5  to  6  feet  of  water — the  enterprise  was  too 
uncertain  to  be  often  prosecuted,  and  the  best  proof  of  its  impracticability  lay 
in  the  fact  that  the  African  Lakes  Company  had  almost  abandoned  this  way 
into  the  Zambezi,  and  preferred  to  pay  the  heavy  Customs  duties  of  Quelimane 
and  submit  to  all  reasonable  restrictions  on  the  part  of  the  Portuguese,  rather 
than  attempt  to  communicate  with  the  Shire  by  means  of  the  Kongone  mouth 
of   the"  Zambezi — an   attempt    indeed   which  they  could  only  make  at   fitful 

*  Whereas,  on  the  other  hand,  the  history  of  the  eastern  half  of  British  Central  Africa,  east  of  the 
Kafue  River,  has  always  been  mixed  up  with  that  of  Zanzil^ar  and  the  northern  half  of  Portuguese  P^sl 
Africa. 


HISTORY  79 

intervals,  and  b\'  specially  chartering  ocean-going  steamers,  as  no  established 
Steamship  Line  would  hear  of  calling  in  at  the  Kongone  mouth  as  a  matter 
of  course. 

At  this  juncture  a  discovery  of  the  greatest  importance  was  made,  which 
completely  altered  the  political  aspect  of  the  question.  Mr.  Daniel  J.  Rankin, 
an  explorer  who  had  originally  proceeded  to  Nyasaland  as  private  secretary 
to  Consul  Foot,  and  who  had  also  acted  in  a  Consular  capacity  at  Mo(jambique, 
was  enabled  by  the  Royal  Scottish  Geographical  Society  to  institute  an 
exploration  of  the  Zambezi  delta.  In  the  course  of  his  journey  he  discovered 
the  Chinde  mouth  of  the  Zambezi,  which  apparently  was  quite  unknown  to  the 
Portuguese  Government,  though  it  had  probably  been  first  discovered  by  a 
Portuguese  planter  who  was  working  a  concession  in  the  delta.  This  planter  s 
information  put  Mr.  Rankin  on  the  track  of  his  discovery,  which  he  announced 
to  the  world  in  the  spring  of  1889.^  It  was  briefly  this,  that  the  Chinde  mouth 
of  the  Zambezi  possessed  a  bar  shorter  and  safer  and  simpler  than  that  of  any 
other  outlet  of  the  Zambezi,  and  with  a  minimum  depth  of  water  at  high  tide 
of  17  feet  (as  against,  say,  10  feet  at  the  Kongone).  At  the  time  Mr.  Rankin 
sounded  the  bar,  I  believe  he  found  a  depth  of  water  on  it  of  21  or  22  feet, 
a  depth  which  has  several  times  since  been  recorded,  but  chiefly  at  that  season 
of  the  year  when  the  river  was  visited  by  Mr.  Rankin,  namely  when  the 
Zambezi  is  in  full  flood.  Ordinarily  the  depth  of  water  at  high  spring-tides 
is  17  to  19  feet.  Not  only  was  the  Chinde  bar  a  far  less  serious  obstacle 
than  that  of  any  other  mouth  of  the  Zambezi,  but  its  channel  from  the  sea 
into  the  main  Zambezi  was  easier  of  navigation  than  the  other  branches  of 
that  river.  In  its  far-reaching  political  importance,  probably  no  greater 
discovery  in  the  history  of  British  Central  Africa  has  been  made  than  that 
of  the  navigability  of  the  Chinde  River  from  the  Indian  Ocean  to  the  main 
Zambezi. 

^  In  the  Times  Newspaper. 


ON   THE   CHINDE    MOUTH   OF   THE   ZAMBEZI 


CHAPTER    IV. 
THE    FOUNDING   OF    THE    PROTECTORATE 


ANY  direct  personal  interest  which  I  may  have  taken  in  the  affairs  of 
Nyasaland  dates  from  the  commencement  of  1884. 
I  had  returned  from  a  prolonged  examination  of  the  western  basin 
of  the  River  Congo  and  my  opinion  was  invited  at  the  Foreign  Office  on  certain 
points  connected  with  the  proposed  treaty  with  Portugal  regulating  the  political 
and  commercial  affairs  of  the  Lower  Congo. 

This  treaty  contained  a  clause  providing  that  Portuguese  political  influence 
should  cease  in  the  direction  of  Nyasaland  at  the  junction  of  the  Ruo  and 
Shire  rivers.  Had  the  treaty  been  ratified  this  clause  would  have  obviated  any 
further  frontier  disputes  with  Portugal,  north  of  the  Zambezi ;  but  owing  to 
unreasonable  opposition  in  certain  quarters  it  was  not  ratified,  and  then  the 
Berlin  Conference  was  called  to  deal  generally  with  questions  affecting  the 
Congo  and  the  Niger,  and  Zambezian  affairs  were  postponed  in  their  settlement. 
The  Portuguese  were  now  free  of  any  obligation  in  regard  to  Nyasaland,  and 
being  an  enterprising  and  ambitious  people,  determined  once  more  to  revive 
their  scheme  of  a  trans-continental  Empire  from  Angola  to  Mozambique, 
including  the  southern  part  of  what  is  now  Central  Africa.  They  were  aided 
in  these  assumptions  by  the  remarkable  journeys  of  their  explorers,  Capello 
and  Ivens. 

Lord  Salisbury's  Ministry,  however,  had  succeeded  to  power,  and  in  several 
speeches  in  the  House  of  Lords  the  Premier  could  not  conceal  the  interest  that 
he  felt  in  the  struggle  going  on  between  the  Arabs  and  the  African  Lakes 
Company,  or  his  resolve  to  maintain  Nyasaland  as  a  country  open  to  British 
enterprise  without  the  restrictions  which  would  result  from  its  transference 
to  any  other  European  Power.  Owing  to  the  difficulty  about  a  direct  water 
route  into  the  heart  of  South  Central  Africa  to  which  I  have  alluded  in  the 
last  chapter,  I  believe  it  was  not  the  object  of  Her  Majesty's  Ministers  in  1887 
to  establish  any  actual  Protectorate  over  Nyasaland  :  they  merely  wished  that 
it  should  become  neither  German  nor  Portuguese,  but  be  ruled  by  its  native 
chiefs,  under  the  advice,  it  might  be,  of  a  British  Consul,  but  in  any  case 
that  it  should  remain  open  to  the  British  traders,  planters  and  missionaries 
without  let  or  hindrance. 

In  1888  I  had  returned  from  three  years  of  Consular  work  in  the  Niger 
Coast  Protectorate,  and  in  the  summer  of  that  year  Lord  Salisbury  held  a  short 
conversation  with  me  at  Hatfield  in  which  he  developed  his  views  about 
Zambezia.     From  this  conversation  I  date,  to  a  great  extent,  my  own  concep- 

80 


FOUNDING   THE    PROTECTORATE  8i 

tion  of  the  policy  to  be  pursued.^  In  the  autumn  of  1888  I  was  offered  and 
accepted  the  post  of  Consul  to  Portuguese  East  Africa.  At  the  beginning 
of  1889  it  was  decided  by  the  Foreign  Office  that  I  should  travel  in  the  interior, 
and  report  on  the  troubles  which  had  arisen  with  the  Arabs,  and  above  all  with 
the  Portuguese ;  and  that  in  those  districts  admittedly  beyond  Portuguese 
jurisdiction  I  should  take  measures  to  secure  the  country  from  abrupt  seizure 
by  other  European  Powers,  by  concluding  treaties  of  friendship  with  the  native 
chiefs,  in  which  they  bound  themselves  not  to  transfer  their  governing  rights 
to  any  European  Power  without  the  consent  of  Her  Majesty's  Government. 
Before  starting  for  my  post,  however,  it  was  thought  by  Lord  Salisbury  that 
I  might,  by  personal  intercourse  with  the  Portuguese  Authorities  at  Lisbon, 
suggest  some  modus  vivendi  with  regard  to  the  settlement  of  our  conflicting 
claims.  I,  accordingly,  spent  some  six  weeks  in  Portugal,  and  in  conjunction 
with  Her  Majesty's  Envoy,  Mr.,  now  Sir  George,  Petre,  discussed  the  subject 
of  Nyasaland  at  the  Portuguese  Foreign  Office.  A  draft  arrangement  was 
drawn  up,  which  after  some  modifications  was  shown  to  the  Portuguese  Minister 
for  Foreign  Affairs,  and  approved  by  him.  It  was  then  submitted  to  the 
English  Foreign  Office,  but  as  it  did  not  provide  for  the  exclusion  of  the  Shire 
Highlands  from  the  Portuguese  Sphere  it  was  not  deemed  acceptable  by  Her 
Majesty's  Government,  as  the  chief  object  of  any  such  arrangement  at  that 
time  was  to  secure  the  work  of  the  English  missionaries  and  planters  from 
interference.  This  arrangement  might,  however,  have  been  modified  in  that 
respect  without  difficulty  on  the  part  of  the  Portuguese,  but  the  fact  was  that 
the  Government  felt  reluctant  to  push  the  matter  to  an  immediate  conclusion 
in  the  face  of  two  obstacles,  one  being  the  want  of  direct  water  communication 
with  the  interior  beyond  the  Portuguese  Sphere,  and  the  other,  the  difficulty 
which  would  be  experienced  by  the  Imperial  Government  at  that  time,  in 
finding  funds  for  incurring  the  great  responsibility  of  administering  the  districts 
bordering  on  Lake  Nyasa,  a  territory  that  did  not  then  promise  much  or,  indeed, 
any  local  revenue  of  its  own.  Two  things  now  occurred  to  dispel  Government 
anxieties  on  these  accounts :  Mr.  Rankin  announced  his  discovery  of  the  Chinde 
mouth,  and  Mr.  Cecil  Rhodes  arrived  in  England  to  obtain  a  Charter  for  his 
Company.  I  made  the  acquaintance  of  Mr.  Rhodes,  and  found  him  much 
disposed  to  interest  himself  in  the  extension  of  British  influence  across  the 
Zambezi.  As  the  result  of  several  conferences  Mr.  Rhodes  was  able  to  assure 
the  Foreign  Office  that  his  proposed  Chartered  Company  would  find  at  least 
;£"  10,000  a  year,  for  several  years,  for  the  development  and  administration 
of  Nyasaland.  Under  these  new  circumstances,  therefore,  the  Government 
felt  justified  in  attempting  to  secure  for  Great  Britain  a  reasonable  amount 
of  political  influence  over  those  countries  of  Central  Africa,  not  claimed  by 
(iermany,  Portugal,  or  the  Congo  Free  State.  The  form  of  Treaty  that  was 
drawn  up  was  not,  however,  altered,  as  it  was  not  intended  to  proclaim  "any 
Protectorate,  if  more  indirect  means  of  political  supremacy  could  be  attained. 

It  should,  perhaps,  be  stated  that  the  attention  of  Her  Majesty's  Government 
had  been  drawn  in  the  spring  of  1889  to  the  imposing  expedition  which  was  to 
be  commanded  by  Major  Serpa  Pinto  in  Portuguese  Zambezia. 

Explanations  had  been  asked  for  in  Lisbon  as  to  its  eventual  destination, 

*  What  this  conception  was  may  be  found  in  an  article  in  the  Times  of  August  22nd,  i885,  which  it 
may  be  interesting  for  some  persons  to  re-read  now  as  it  was  written  at  a  time  when  such  ideas  as  a  British 
dominion^  including  an  establishment  on  the  shores  of  Tanganyika  and  through  communication  between 
the  Cape  and  Egypt  had  never  before  been  specifically  enunciated. 

6 


82  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

but  the  Portuguese  Minister  for  Foreign  Affairs  assured  Her  Majesty's  Govern- 
ment that  Serpa  Pinto  would  merely  proceed  to  the  Portuguese  establishments 
on  the  Upper  Zambezi  and  on  the  Luangwa  River,  and  would  not  enter 
the  debatable  ground  of  the  Shire  Highlands.  Consequently,  as  the  Portuguese 
claim  to  Zumbo  and  to  the  Lower  Luangwa  had  not  been  contested — or 
indeed  their  claims  anywhere  where  occupation  or  political  supremacy  could  be 
shown — it  was  thought  that  if  the  Portuguese  did  not  attempt  to  impose  their 
rule  on  any  new  lands  where  olir  interests  might  be  affected,  no  such  direct  step 
as  the  establishment  of  a  Protectorate  on  our  part  should  be  undertaken  until 
negotiations  with  Germany  and  Portugal  had,  more  or  less  precisely,  fixed 
the  limits  of  our  political  influence. 

I  started  for  Mozambique  in  the  early  summer  of  1889.  On  my  arrival 
at  that  place  the  Foreign  Office,  at  my  request,  appointed  Mr.  W.  A.  Churchill,^ 
Vice-Consul,  so  that  I  might  be  free  to  start  on  my  journey  to  the  interior, 
without  leaving  Consular  matters  unattended  to.  Soon  after  I  reached 
Mozambique  there  arrived  H.M.S.  Stork,  a  surveying  vessel  commanded 
by  Lieut-Commander  Balfour,  R.N.  The  Stork  had  just  returned  from  Chinde, 
where  it  had  been  sent  to  verify  Mr.  Rankin's  discoveries.  The  Commander 
informed  me  that  in  his  steam-launch  he  had  passed  up  into  the  Zambezi,  and 
had  found  the  channel  all  the  way  deep  enough  for  even  the  Stork  herself,  and 
the  Stork  was  a  vessel  drawing  13  J  feet.  I  felt  that  it  would  be  good  policy  to 
show  that  I  had  reached  these  regions  of  the  interior,  without  necessarily 
landing  on  Portuguese  territory,  so  I  obtained  permission  from  the  Government 
to  use  the  Stork  for  the  conveyance  of  my  expedition.  At  the  same  time  the 
authorities  at  Mozambique  were  made  fully  aware  of  the  purposes  I  intended  to 
fulfil,  namely  the  negotiation  of  a  peace  with  the  Arabs  and  the  conclusion  of 
treaties  of  friendship  with  the  local  chiefs,  who  were  not  under  Portuguese  juris- 
diction. The  Governor  asked  me  pointedly  if  I  intended  to  proclaim  a  British 
Protectorate,  and  I  told  him  I  was  authorised  to  do  nothing  of  the  kind,  so  long 
as  Major  Serpa  Pinto  or  other  Portuguese  explorers  took  no  political  action 
outside  Portuguese  territory.  No  difficulty  whatever  was  placed  in  my  way  by 
the  Portuguese,  whether  or  not  they  approved  of  my  expedition.  I  think  parti- 
cular stress  should  be  laid  on  this  fact,  as  had  Portugal  been  animated  by  really 
hostile  intentions  to  Great  Britain,  there  were  a  hundred  pretexts  by  which  they 
might  have  stopped  my  journey.  So  little  need  was  there  to  preserve  any 
mystery  about  my  operations,  that  instead  of  proceeding  direct  to  Chinde, 
I  called  in  with  the  Stork  at  Quelimane,  and  there  visited  the  Portuguese 
officials,  and  communicated  with  the  African  Lakes  Company.  The  Stork 
crossed  the  bar  of  the  Chinde  mouth  without  difficulty,  on  the  28th  of  July, 
1889,  and  steamed  up  the  Chinde  River  into  the  main  Zambezi,  to  the 
unbounded  astonishment  of  such  few  inhabitants  as  were  on  the  banks,  for 
neither  they  nor  any  other  people  had  seen  so  large  a  vessel  enter  the  Zambezi 
before.  A  short  distance  above  the  confluence  of  the  Chinde  with  the  main  Zambezi 
the  Stork  came  to  anchor,  and  we  continued  our  journey  in  a  flotilla  of  steam 
launches  and  boats,  by  which  means  we  finally  came  up  with  the  African 
Lakes  Company's  steamer,  the  James  Stevenson,  near  Morambala,  a  very  notable 
mountain  which  is  situated  some  twenty  miles  up  the  Shire  River.  My  expedi- 
tion consisted  of  Mr.  J.  L.  Nicoll,  formerly  of  the  Lakes  Company's  service,^ 
whom  I  had  engaged  at  Quelimane  as  an  assistant ;  All  Kiongwe,  my  Zanzibari 
headman,  who  had  accompanied  me  on  my  journey  to  Kilimanjaro,  and  whom  I 

^  Now  Consul  at  Moyanibique.  '^  Just  returning;  from  the  Arab  War. 


FOUNDING   THE    PROTECTORATE 


«3 


had  re-engaged  at  Zanzibar  in  1889 ;  and  fifteen  Makua,  engaged  with  the  con- 
sent of  the  Portuguese  authorities  at  Mo9ambique.  The  James  Stevenson  was  a 
river  steamer  of  about  forty  tons  burden,  worked  by  a  stern  wheel,  and  with 
fairly,  comfortable  cabin  accommodation,  and  an  upper  deck.  In  this  steamer 
we  pursued  our  course  up  the  river,  until  we  reached  Serpa  Pinto's  camp, 
which  was  a  little  distance  below  the  confluence  of  the  Ruo  and  the  Shire.  I 
had  been  startled,  on  reaching  Quelimane,  to  learn  from  the  Portuguese  officials 
there,  that  Major  Serpa  Pinto,  after  journeying  to  Sena  on  the  Lower  Zambezi 
with  his  expedition,  had  suddenly,  and  abruptly,  deflected  his  course  northwards 
to  the  Shire,  and  was  apparently  making  for  the  Makololo  country,  and  the 
Shire  Highlands.  Major  Serpa  Pinto  had  been 
apprised  of  my  coming,  and  when  the  James 
Stevenson  drew  near  he  dispatched  an  officer  and 
a  boat,  so  that  I  might  land  and  see  him.  I  found 
Serpa  Pinto  surrounded  by  a  staff  of  white  officers, 
and  was  informed  that  he  had  with  him  over  seven 
hundred  Zulu  soldiers.^ 

The  Major  received  me  in  a  little  hut,  and  after 
insisting  on*  my  sharing  his  afternoon  tea,  we  began 
to  discuss  the  political  situation.  He  informed  me 
that  he  sought  my  intervention  with  the  Makololo 
people,  to  persuade  them  to  allow  him  to  pass  un- 
hindered through  their  country,  as  he  was  on  his 
way  to  Lake  Nyasa  in  charge  of  a  Scientific  Expedi- 
tion. "  We  go,"  he  said,  **  to  visit  that  Portuguese 
subject,  Mponda,  at  the  south  end  of  Lake  Nyasa."  '^ 
I  replied  to  Major  Serpa  Pinto,  "If  you  are  only  in 
charge  of  a  Scientific  Expedition,  you  need,  at  most, 
an  escort  of  fifty  soldiers ;  but  the  Makololo  are  sure 
to  view  your  journey  with  distrust  if  you  attempt  to 
bring  so  large  an  armed  force  into  the  country ; 
moreover,  your  Government  has  distinctly  assured 
us  that  the  object  of  your  mission  was  the  Upper 
Zambezi,  and  not  the  Shire.  Consequently,  if  you 
take  any  political  action  north  of  the  Ruo,  which  we 
consider,  provisionally,  to  be  the  Portuguese  limit, 
you  will  oblige  me,  on  my  part,  to  go  beyond  my 
immediate  instructions  and  effectively  protect  the 
interests  of  Her  Majesty's  Government.  If  you  merely  wish  to  pass  through 
the  country  for  scientific  purposes  we  will  travel  together,  and  I  will  do  my 
best  to  persuade  the  Makololo  to  offer  no  opposition." 

Major  Serpa  Pinto  did  not  give  any  very  definite  reply  to  these  remarks 
of  mine,  merely  reiterating  his  hope  that  I  would  prevail  on  the  Makololo 
to  offer  no  opposition  to  his  passage ;  otherwise  he  would  be  obliged  to  fight 
them. 

1  proceeded    on    my  way  in   the  James   Steinmson^   and    soon    afterwards 

*  Many  of  these  men  were  inhabitants  of  Gazaland  and  Inyambane,  but  a  few  of  them  were 
undoubtedly  Zulus,  who  had  been  recruited  in  Swaziland  and  in  the  vicinity  of  Delagoa  Bay. 

2  I  was  aware  that  the  Portuguese  had  endeavoured  by  means  of  Senor  Cardozo,  the  only  Portuguese 
explorer  who  had  at  that  date  reached  the  shores  of  Lake  Nyasa,  to  conclude  a  treaty  with  Mponda, 
but  it  was  common  knowledge  that  although  he  had  received  the  Mission  in  a  friendly  way,  he  had  i.ol 
signed  the  treaty. 


SERGT.-MAJOR   ALI    KIONGWB 


84  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

we  passed  the  junction  of  the  Ruo  and  the  Shire,  and  the  steamer  stopped 
at  Chiromo,  on  the  north  bank  of  the  river  Ruo.  Here  we  found  a  large 
native  village,  under  two  young  chiefs,  Mbengwa  and  Makwira,  sons  of 
the  Chipatula  who  had  been  killed  by  Fenwick.  There  was  an  English 
trading  station  at  Chiromo,  belonging  to  two  young  English  elephant 
hunters,  named  Pettitt  Whilst  the  steamer  stopped  at  Chiromo,  I  saw 
the  two  chiefs,  and  explained  to  them  that  they  were  not  to  take  any- 
aggressive  action  against  the  Portuguese,  even  if  the  latter  crossed  the 
Ruo  in  force.  In  such  a  case  as  this  they  were  to  inform  the  Acting 
Consul  at  Blantyre.  From  Chiromo  we  passed  on  up  the  River  Shire, 
through  the  Elephant  Marsh,  but  as  we  approached  nearer  to  the  Makololo 
settlements  beyond  the  Elephant  Marsh,  the  captain  of  the  James  Stevenson 
became  greatly  perturbed  as  to  the  attitude  which  might  be  observed  by  the 
powerful  Makololo  chief,  Mlauri.  Mlauri  was  no  more  friendly  at  that  time 
to  the  English  than  to  the  Portuguese.  Towards  the  English  he  had  been 
very  aggressive  on  account  of  his  not  having  been  recognised  as  supreme 
chief  of  the  Makololo.  He  had  several  times  tried  to  get  hold  of  the  two 
young  chiefs  of  Chiromo,  in  order  that  he  might  kill  them,  and  was  furious 
with  the  Pettitts  and  with  a  Mr.  Simpson,  an  engineer  in  the  service  of  the 
Lakes  Company,  for  having  intervened  to  protect  them.  Mlauri  in  those 
days  occupied  a  strong  position  at  Mbewe,  a  place  some  little  distance 
below  Katunga,  the  termination  of  river  navigation  on  the  Lower  Shire. 
The  set  of  the  current  compelled  all  steamers  to  pass  close  under  the  cliff 
of  Mbewe,  and  they  were  therefore  completely  at  the  mercy  of  Mlauri's  guns, 
and  Mlauri  was  frequently  in  the  habit  of  firing  at  the  steamers  to  compel 
them  to  stop,  and  either  give  him  a  present  or  await  his  good  pleasure  in 
other  respects.  He  had  been  the  leading  spirit  in  the  sinking  of  the  Lady 
Nyasa  at  the  time  of  the  disturbance  following  the  death  of  Chipatula,  and 
not  having  been  punished  for  this  his  tyrannical  obstructions  to  river  navigation 
were  becoming  unbearable. 

As  we  neared  Mbewe,  we  saw  the  banks  lined  with  armed  men.  The 
captain  of  the  James  Stevenson  at  first  determined  to  steam  by  at  full 
speed,  but  the  natives  shouted  from  the  banks  that  if  we  did  not  stop  and 
come  to  an  anchor  they  would  fire  on  us.  I  therefore  advised  the  captain 
to  anchor  his  vessel  at  Mbewe,  and  determined  to  go  on  shore  and  interview 
Mlauri,  with  the  double  object  of  protesting  against  his  behaviour  towards 
the  British  steamers,  and  cautioning  him  about  falling  out  with  the  Portuguese 
The  Rev.  Alexander  Hetherwick,  of  the  Church  of  Scotland  Mission,  was  a 
fellow  traveller  with  me  on  board  the  James  Stevenson,  and  when  he  heard 
of  my  intention  to  see  Mlauri,  he  kindly  volunteered  his  services  as  interpreter. 
In  those  days  I  could  speak  nothing  but  Swahili,  and  although  this  language 
might  be  partially  understood  by  Mlauri,  it  was  preferable  to  talk  straight 
to  him  in  his  own  language — Chi-nyanja. 

We  landed  amongst  a  jeering  crowd  of  warriors,  armed  with  guns,  who 
were  rather  inclined  to  hustle  us,  but  eventually  we  found  our  way  without 
misadventure  to  the  presence  of  Mlauri,  who  was  seated  in  an  open  space  on 
a  chair,  with  a  gaudy  blanket  wrapped  round  his  loins,  and  a  tall  white 
chimney-pot  hat  on  his  head.  He  was  surrounded  by  a  semi-circle  of  warriors 
and  headmen,  and  directed  us  to  be  seated  on  some  ricketty-looking  camp 
chairs  placed  opposite  to  him,  evidently  in  readiness  for  our  visit.  On  our 
attempting  to  sit  on  the  chairs  they  collapsed,  and  we  fell  to  the  ground  amid 


FOUNDING   THE    PROTECTORATE 


85 


shouts  of  derisive  laughter  from  the  natives.  After  this  I  lost  my  temper,  and 
so  severely  rated  Mlauri  in  Swahili  that  whether  he  understood  the  drift  of 
my  words  or  not,  he  was  convinced  I  was  extremely  angry,  and  being — like 
most  of  these  negro  chiefs — a  coward  as  well  as  a  bully,  he  became  quite 
apologetic.  When  fresh  and  more  secure  seats  had  been  brought  for  us  I 
explained  to  him — through  Mr.  Hetherwick — firstly,  that  these  attempts  to 
obstruct  the  navigation  of  the  Shire  would  get  him  into  trouble  with  Her 
Majesty's  Government,  and,  secondly,  that  he  had  better  not  attempt  to  fight 
the  Portuguese  if  they  forced  their  way  through  his  country,  but  should  leave 
this  matter  to  be  decided  between  the  two  Governments.  Mlauri  replied, 
discursively,  giving  as  his  reason  for  annoying  the  steamers  that  he  was  not 
allowed  to  seize  Chipatula's  two  sons,  and  that  the  English  would  not  recognise 
him  as  paramount  chief  of  the  Makololo.  Also  that  he  felt  convinced  that 
we  were  in  league  with  the  Portuguese,  and  that  all  white  men  were  equally 
bad.  He  would,  therefore,  fight  Major  Serpa  Pinto,  unless  the  latter  broke 
up  his  camp  and  retired  to  the  Zambezi. 

I  reiterated  my  advice  to  him,  not  to  pursue  such  a  course,  and  then 
returned  to  the  steamer,  which  was  allowed  to  leave  without  further  opposition 
on  the  part  of  the  natives.  We  soon  reached  Katunga's,  which  in  some  sense 
is  the  port  of  Blantyre,  that  place  being  about  twenty-five  miles  distant  over 
the  hills.  At  Katunga  I  was  met  by  Mr.  John  Buchanan,  the  Acting  Consul ; 
by  the  Rev.  D.  C.  Scott,  of  the  Church  of  Scotland  Mission  ;  Mr.  John  Moir, 
the  Manager  of  the  Lakes  Company ;  and  by  a  trader  whom  I  will  call  Mr.  S., 
who  was  a  British  subject  of  German 
origin.  I  explained  to  these  gentle- 
men the  end  that  I  had  in  view, 
namely,  to  secure  treaties  of  friendship 
with  the  Makololo  and  Yao  chiefs,  but 
not  to  declare  a  British  Protectorate 
if  possible,  unless  the  Portuguese 
forced  my  hand,  for  I  considered  it 
better  to  leave  the  ultimate  decision  as 
to  a  Protectorate  with  Her  Majesty's 
Government,  who  would  probably  wait 
till  they  had  first  negotiated  a  settle- 
ment of  boundaries  with  the  Portu- 
guese. Mr.  Buchanan  and  Mr.  Moir 
were  delighted  at  the  idea  of  the 
treaties  of  friendship,  but  a  violent 
opposition  was  declared  thereto  by 
Mr.  S.,  the  trader,  an  opposition  which, 
at  the  time,  I  was  totally  unable  to 
understand,  but  which  was  made  clear 
to  me  afterwards  by  the  discovery 
that  Mr.  S.  had,  himself,  attempted  to  conclude  treaties  with  the  native 
chiefs,  by  which  they  were  to  yield  to  him  their  sovereign  rights.  He  had 
not,  up  to  that  time,  succeeded  in  inducing  them  to  do  so,  but  he  was 
counting  much  on  exploiting  the  ill-humour  of  Mlauri.  It  is  not  very  clear 
what  were  the  intentions  of  Mr.  S. — whether  to  start  a  Chartered  Companx^ 
of  his  own,  or,  having  acquired  a  sovereignty  over  the  Shire  Highlands,  to 
make  terms  for  himself  with  either  England  or  Germany,  England  being  the 


MR.  JOHN    BUCHANAN 


86  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

country  of  his  adoption,  and  Germany  the  land  of  his  birth.  I  do  not  give 
this  gentleman's  name  in  full,  because,  when  the  British  Protectorate  was  finally 
declared,  he  accepted  it  loyally.  I  only  mention  the  incident  here  because 
it  was  one  which  rather  precipitated  our  political  action. 

A  treaty  of  friendship  was  concluded  by  Mr.  Buchanan  at  Katunga  with 
all  the  Makololo  chiefs  except  Mlauri.  Subsequently,  when  Mlauri  had 
received  his  first  defeat  at  the  hands  of  the  Portuguese,  he  made  a  treaty 
also  with  Mr.  Buchanan. 

Mr.  Moir,  the  manager  of  the  Lakes  Company,  had  invited  me  to  be  his 
guest  at  Mandala,  near  Blantyre,  and  had  brought  down  a  horse  for  me  to 
ride.  In  those  days  there  were  only  two  horses  in  British  Central  Africa; 
one  of  these  was  ill,  and  the  other  lent  to  me  was  rather  an  unmanageable 
beast.  It  had  evidently  been  bored  by  the  long  delay  in  treaty-making  at 
Katunga,  and  was  desperately  anxious  to  return  to  the  pleasanter  climate  of 
Blantyre,  so  that  when  I  mounted  at  Katunga  station,  it  instantly  bolted, 
nearly  beheading  me  in  the  low  gateway  which  formed  the  entrance  to  the 
station.  Its  frantic  gallop  was  checked  at  the  ascent  to  the  hills,  and  I  regained 
command  over  it ;  but  soon  afterwards  the  rotten  leather  bridle  came  to  pieces, 
and  before  I  could  clutch  at  the  two  ends  they  had  fallen  to  the  ground,  the 
horse  had  put  his  foot  on  them,  snapping  them  off,  and  there  I  was  on  his 
back,  without  any  means  of  controlling  him.  He  realised  the  situation,  and 
once  more  raced  along  the  narrow  path.  I  did  not  fall  off,  but  entered 
Blantyre  more  like  Mazeppa  than  a  well-conducted  British  official.  In 
passing  through  the  various  archways  and  tunnels  covered  with  very  thorny 
roses,  which  diversified  the  garden  approach  to  Mr.  Moir's  house,  I  could 
only  save  myself  from  serious  damage  by  lying  as  flat  as  possible  on  the 
horse's  back,  with  my  arms  round  his  neck.  He  made  straight  for  his  stable, 
and  at  the  fortunately  closed  door  came  to  a  dead  stop.  I  rolled  off  liis  back, 
bleeding  and  bruised,  and  have  always  regarded  that  first  ride  from  Katunga  to 
Blantyre  as  the  greatest  risk  I  ever  ran  in  British  Central  Africa. 

At  Blantyre  treaties  were  concluded  with  the  Yao  chiefs ;  and  I  organised, 
with  the  help  of  Mr.  John  Moir,  my  expedition  to  the  north  end  of  Lake 
Nyasa.  Before  leaving  for  the  lake,  I  made  arrangements  with  Mr.  John 
Buchanan  as  to  the  course  which  should  be  pursued  if  the  Portuguese  attempted 
to  take  forcible  possession  of  the  Shire  Highlands.  In  such  an  event  as  this, 
if  the  Portuguese  crossed  the  Ruo  in  force  and  gave  any  evidence  of  an  inten- 
tion to  occupy  the  country  politically,  Mr.  Buchanan  was  to  proclaim  a  British 
Protectorate  over  the  Shire  province,  between  Lake  Chilwa  and  the  Kirk 
Mountains  of  Angoniland,  the  River  Ruo  and  Zomba  Mountain.  This  step, 
however,  was  not  to  be  taken  and  Her  Majesty's  Government  was  not  to  be 
pledged  to  a  Protectorate  over  the  Shire  Highlands,  unless  there  was  no 
option  between  such  a  proceeding  and  passively  admitting  the  Portuguese 
conquest  of  the  country.^ 

Subsequent  to  my  departure  the  following  events  took  place.  Major  Serpa 
Pinto  advanced  northwards,  along  the  west  bank  of  the  Shire,  and  was  attacked 
by  the  Makololo  ^  under  Mlauri.  Mlauri  excused  himself  for  this  action  after- 
wards by  complaining  that  the  Portuguese  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Shire  had 

*  The  Protectorate  was  proclaimed  September  21,  1889,  after  the  news  of  the  first  conflict  between 
the  Portuguese  and  the  Makololo  (at  Mpatsa,  just  below  the  Ruo)  had  reached  Mr.  Buchanan,  who  was 
then  trying  to  pacify  the  Makololo. 

'  November  8,  1889. 


FOUNDING   THE    PROTECTORATE 


87 


been  the  aggressors,  and  had  raided  some  of  his  villages.  His  attack,  however, 
was  completely  repulsed  by  the  Portuguese,  who  inflicted  upon  him  a  very 
sanguinary  defeat.  Up  to  this  point  Major  Serpa  Pinto  had  not  crossed  the 
hypothetical  boundary  of  English  and  Portuguese  interests,  which  had  been 
once  or  twice  mentioned  to  be  the  River  Ruo,  and  a  line — more  or  less  parallel 
with  the  confluence  of  the  Ruo — drawn  westward  across  the  Shire.  So  far  as  I 
am  aware  Major  Serpa  Pinto  never  crossed  this  line,  but  when  brought  face  to 
face  with  the  question  of  doing  so,  and  thereby  bringing  the  Portuguese 
Government  into  almost  open  conflict  with  the  British,  he  left  the  expedition 


MASEA   AND   MVVITU,  TWO  OF   LIVINGSTONE'S   MAKOLOLO 


under  the  charge  of  Lieut.  Coutinho,  and  proceeded  to  Mozambique  for  further 
instructions.  ^  In  his  absence,  however,  Lieut.  Coutinho,  whose  attitude  towards 
Major  Serpa  Pinto  may  be  described  in  Lady  Macbeth's  lines — 

"  Infirm  of  purpose  !     Give  me  the  dagger  ! " 

resolved  to  conquer  the  Shire  province,  and  meet  English  remonstrances  with 
'eifait  accompli.  Hitherto  all  the  other  Makololo  chiefs  had  followed  my  advice, 
and  had  not  joined  Mlauri  in  attacking  the  Portuguese.  Mlauri's  action  was 
quite  isolated,  but  Lieut.  Coutinho  had  established  a  camp  on  the  other  side 
of  the  River  Ruo,  facing  Chiromo.  The  two  young  Chiromo  chiefs  were  careful 
to  give  no  cause  of  offence  to  Lieut.  Coutinho,  who  suddenly  crossed  the  Ruo 
and  seized  Chiromo.  The  Makololo  withdrew  before  him,  and  he  destroyed 
their  village  and  erected  very  strong  fortifications  on  the  small  spit  of  land, 

^  Arriving  there  l)ecenil)er  25,  1 889. 


88  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

which  is  a  peninsula,  with  the  Shire  on  the  one  side  and  the  Ruo  on  the 
other.^ 

The  Portuguese  forces  then  marched  up  both  banks  of  the  Shire,  driving 
Mlauri  before  them.  Prior  to  his  first  defeat  at  the  hands  of  the  Portuguese 
Mlauri  had  concluded  a  treaty  with  Mr.  Buchanan,  but  as  the  latter  had 
forbidden  him  to  fight  with  the  Portuguese,  he  was  not  encouraged,  after  his 
defeat,  to  take  refuge  at  Blantyre,  whither  all  the  other  Makololo  chiefs 
proceeded.  The  Portuguese  forces  advanced  as  far  as  Katunga,  and  were 
making  preparations  to  occupy  Blantyre,  when  the  English  Ultimatum  to 
Portugal  brought  matters  to  a  standstill.  I  have  always  believed  that  the 
Portuguese  Government  in  Lisbon  neither  sanctioned  nor  approved  this  forcible 
entry  into  the  district  in  dispute  between  England  and  Portugal,  and  that  they 
even  transmitted  instructions  to  Major  Serpa  Pinto  and  others  not  to  cross  the 
Ruo,  if  by  so  doing  any  conflict  was  likely  to  arise  with  British  interests  ;  but 
that  their  representative  at  Mozambique  desired  a  bolder  policy  and  acted  far 
beyond  his  instructions,  and  even  in  defiance  of  them  :  for  at  the  time  when  the 
Portuguese  Government  in  Lisbon  had  assured  Lord  Salisbury  that  Major 
Serpa  Pinto  had  left  for  Mozambique,  and  that  the  expedition  would  proceed 
no  farther  in  the  direction  of  the  Shire  Highlands,  the  Portuguese  Governor- 
General  at  Mozambique  issued  an  official  gazette  announcing  that  the  Shire 
province  had  been  annexed  to  the  Portuguese  dominions,  and  appointed  Lieut. 
Coutinho  *' Governor  of  the  Shire."  These  acts  were  annulled  by  the  Portuguese 
Government  after  they  were  brought  to  their  knowledge  by  the  Ultimatum,  and 
the  Portuguese  forces  were  withdrawn  to  the  Portuguese  side  of  the  Ruo, 
though  they  continued  to  exercise  a  strict  control  over  the  Shire  navigation, 
frequently  stopping  the  British  steamers  and  boats.  At  the  same  time,  I  think 
it  is  only  right,  in  historical  justice  to  Portugal,  to  make  it  clear  that  although 
this  struggle  for  the  possession  of  Nyasaland  was  a  sufficiently  acute  question 
to  the  Portuguese,  and  one  in  which  they  were  passionately  interested,  no  such 
struggle  for  priority  of  rights  was  conducted  with  more  fairness  and  even 
chivalry.  For  instance,  had  Major  Serpa  Pinto  been  an  unscrupulous  man  he 
would  have,  on  some  pretext  or  another,  stopped  my  small  expedition,  and 
whilst  detaining  me  on  this  pretext,  have  marched  ahead  and  arbitrarily  seized 
the  country,  before  anything  could  be  done  to  preserve  British  interests.  Again, 
even  after  the  Portuguese  had  advanced  as  far  as  Katunga,  and  occupied  both 
banks  of  the  Shire  river,  between  that  place  and  Chiromo,  they  placed  no 
obstacle  in  the  way  of  my  return.  On  the  contrary,  the  following  incident 
occurred  between  myself  and  Lieut.  Coutinho,  who  had  been  appointed 
*'  Governor  of  the  Shire."  When  I  passed  down  that  river  on  my  return  from 
Tanganyika  my  boat  was  stopped  by  his  orders  and  drawn  into  the  bank  by  a 
Portuguese  sergeant.  I  was,  at  first,  annoyed  at  what  seemed  to  be  an  attempt 
to  arrest  my  progress  towards  the  coast,  but  fortunately,  before  I  could  give 
expression  to  my  angry  sentiments,  Lieut  Coutinho  had  met  me  on  the  bank, 
and,  raising  his  hat,  said,  "  I  have  taken  the  liberty  of  stopping  you  so  that  you 
might  not  miss  your  mail-bags  which  are  here  awaiting  you.     As  you  have  had 

^  Chiromo  means  "a  big  lip,"  from  the  word  -romo,  or  -lotno,  which  in  so  many  Bantu  languages 
mgans  *'  a  lip."  The  chi-  or  ki-  prefix  in  Chi-nyanja  has  the  effect  of  an  augmentative.  Mromo  means 
'*a  lip";  "Chiromo"  means  "a  big  lip."  This  chi-  prefix,  which  becomes  si-  in  Zulu,  has  in  that 
language  ihe  effect  of  a  diminutive,  consequently  "  Silomo,"  the  Zulu  name  given  to  a  well-known 
member  of  Parliament  by  the  Swazi  Envoys,  means  '*  a  little  lip,"  but  is  otherwise  identical  in  origin  with 
the  name  of  this  place  in  Bfitish  Central  Africa,  for  a  year  such  a  bone  of  contention  between  England 
and  Poriugal. 


FOUNDING   THE    PROTECTORATE  89 

a  long  and  arduous  journey  in  the  interior,  and  are  also,  I  hear,  short  of 
provisions,  I  have  taken  the  liberty  of  making  up  this  small  supply  for  your 
use  on  your  way  to  Quelimane."  Therewith  he  handed  into  the  boat  two 
hampers,  which  contained  not  only  a  supply  of  champagne  and  other  wines^ 
but  all  sorts  of  little  luxuries  very  grateful  to  the  jaded  palate  of  a  travel-weary 
man.  Then,  giving  me  a  letter  to  ensure  my  not  being  stopped  on  my  way  to 
Quelimane,  he  bade  me  farewell.  Upon  my  expressing  my  thanks  very  warmly, 
he  said,  "  We  are  both  doing  our  best  for  our  respective  countries,  and  however 
much  our  political  views  may  differ  that  is  no  reason  why  one  white  man  should 
quarrel  with  another  in  Central  Africa."  This  was  indeed  the  keynote  of  the 
Portuguese  demeanour  towards  me,  then  and  thenceforth,  and  I  feel  it  only  just 
to  place  these  facts  on  record,  for  I  have  been  often  vexed  at  the  unjust 
aspersions  which  have  been  cast  upon  the  Portuguese  in  the  British  Press. 

On  my  way  up  the  Shire  to  Blantyre  I  had  encountered  Mr.  Alfred 
Sharpe,  who  was  travelling  up  the  river  in  his  own  boat.  Knowing  that  a  great 
deal  of  ground  would  have  to  be  covered  in  treaty-making,  and  that  I  should  be 
unable  to  reach  all  parts  of  British  Central  Africa  myself,  I  desired  to  engage 
some  one  who  might  suitably  represent  me  in  such  portions  of  this  territory 
as  lay  outside  my  line  of  route,  especially  in  Central  Zambezia  and  the  countries 
between  Nyasaland  and  the  Barutse.  The  latter  country  had  been  placed  under 
the  British  flag  by  Mr.  Rhodes's  agents  acting  for  the  Chartered  Company. 

I  had  heard  much  of  Mr.  Alfred  Sharpe  from  persons  acquainted  with 
Nyasaland.  He  had  taken  a  leading  part  in  the  war  between  the  Arabs 
and  the  Lakes  Company,  in  which  war  he  had  been  wounded.  Mr.  Sharpe, 
who  had  been  trained  for  the  law,  had  held  a  Colonial  appointment  in  Fiji  for 
some  years,  but  when  this  appointment,  in  common  with  many  others,  was 
abolished  at  a  time  when  the  state  of  Fiji  finances  compelled  severe  retrench- 
ments, he  had  been  offered  a  District  Commissionership  on  the  Gold  Coast. 
For  a  time,  however,  he  preferred  to  travel  and  hunt  in  Central  Africa.  In 
1890  Mr.  Sharpe  accepted  employment  under  the  British  South  Africa 
Company,  in  whose  service  he  remained  about  a  year,  securing  for  them  many 
important  concessions  north  of  the  Zambezi.  Early  in  1891  he  was  appointed 
H.M.  Vice-Consul  in  British  Central  Africa.^  It  had  been  arranged  between 
Mr.  Sharpe  and  myself,  before  I  quitted  Blantyre  for  the  north,  that  he  should 
proceed  due  westward  to  beyond  the  Portuguese  dominions  at  Zumbo,  and 
secure  to  the  British  the  Central  Zambezi,  and  that  afterwards  he  should  make 
treaties  along  the  Luangwa  River  and,  northwards,  to  Lake  Mvveru  and  Lake 
Tanganyika.  All  this  he  successfully  accomplished.  After  passing  into  the 
service  of  the  British  South  Africa  Company  he  made  an  expedition  to 
Katunga,  but  did  not  succeed  in  making  a  treaty,  as  the  chief,  Msiri,  though 
expressing  a  desire  to  remain  on  friendly  terms  with  all  white  men,  refused  to 
become  subservient  to  any  particular  European  Nation.  Subsequently  Msiri 
similarly  refused  to  make  a  treaty  with  Captain  Stair's  expedition,  which  repre- 
sented the  Congo  Free  State,  and  having  assumed  a  hostile  demeanour  towards 
the  expedition  he  was  shot  by  the  late  Captain  Bodson,  who  himself  was  killed 
immediately  afterwards  by  Msiri's  followers.  His  country  was  afterwards 
annexed  to  the  Congo  Free  State.^ 

'  Consul  in  1894;  Deputy  Commissioner  in  1896. 

*  Msiri  does  not  deserve  much  pity.  He  was  a  stranger  to  the  country  of  Katunga,  being  merely 
a  Mnyamwezi  slave  trader  who  by  the  aid  of  an  armed  rabble  of  Wanyamwezi  freebooters  and  coast  Arabs. 
had  carved  out  a  kingdom  for  himself  in  South  Central  Africa.  He  was  a  persistent  slave  raider  and  was 
hated  by  the  people  over  whom  he  ruled.     These  latter  rallied  to  the  Belgian  authorities  after  Msiri's  death. 


90  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

Mr.  Joseph  Thomson  in  1890  came  out  with  Mr.  J.  A.  Grant,  on  behalf  of 
the  British  South  Africa  Company,  and  supplemented  Mr.  Sharpe  s  work  by 
securing  further  treaties  and  concessions  in  the  central  region  of  British  Central 
Africa,  but  the  main  credit  of  having  secured  all  this  portion  of  our  new 
dependency  to  the  British  Flag  emphatically  lies  with  Mr.  Sharpe,  who 
traversed  the  country  with  a  following  scarcely  exceeding  fifteen  to  twenty 
men,  and,  by  the  weight  of  his  personal  influence  only,  secured  these  countries 
to  British  interests,  besides  adding  a  great  deal  to  our  geographical  knowledge.^ 

In  rrty  journey  from  Blantyre  to  Lake  Nyasa  along  the  Upper  Shire,  my 
progress  was  beset  with  great  difficulties  owing  to  the  civil  war  which  was 
raging  between  the  Yao  chiefs,  Mponda  and  Msamara. 

My  assistant,  Mr.  Nicoll,  took  charge  of  that  portion  of  the  expedition 
which  travelled  by  water,  whilst  I  marched  overland.  As  we  neared  the  south 
■end  of  the  lake  we  were  stopped  by  Msamara's  forces  in  the  belief  that  we 
were  about  to  render  assistance  to  Mponda.  I  managed,  however,  to  pacify 
Msamara  by  making  a  treaty  of  friendship  with  him,  and  months  afterwards  I 
succeeded  in  patching  up  a  peace  between  him  and  Mponda. 

Mponda's  reception  of  us  was  rather  doubtful.  He  denied  having  concluded 
any  treaty  with  the  Portuguese,  but  was  averse  to  concluding  even  a  treaty 
of  friendship  with  Great  Britain,  at  any  rate  without  the  sanction  of  the  Sultan 
of  Zanzibars  representative  on  the  lake — the  Jumbe  at  Kotakota.  Mponda 
was  a  very  repellent  type  of  Yao  robber,  alternately  cringing  and  insolent. 
Had  not  the  Universities  Mission  steamer  arrived  by  good  chance  to  give  me  a 
passage  to  Likoma  (where  I  was  to  see  Bishop  Smythies)  I  might  have 
been  robbed  and  murdered  by  Mponda.  As  it  was  my  retreat  to  the  Mission 
steamer  was  very  like  a  flight.  However,  I  got  away  safely  with  all  my  goods 
and  proceeded  to  the  Island  of  Likoma.  My  object  in  seeing  Bishop  Smythies 
was  to  obtain  the  use  of  the  Charles  Janson  for  a  period,  in  order  to  enable  me 
to  bring  about  peace  with  the  Arabs.  At  that  time  the  Lakes  Company  had 
only  one  steamer  plying  on  the  lake,  the  little  Ilala — which  besides  being 
much  out  of  repair,  was  too  small  for  the  conveyance  of  even  my  limited 
expedition.  The  Bishop  was  good  enough  to  place  his  steamer  at  my  disposal, 
for  though  the  Universities  Mission  then  and  always  declared  its  intention 
of  remaining  absolutely  neutral  in  political  matters,  they  were  anxious  to  do 
all  in  their  power  to  assist  me  to  bring  about  peace  between  the  Lakes 
Company  and  the  Arabs. 

We  then  crossed  to  Bandawe  on  the  west  side  of  the  lake.  From  this  place 
Mr.  Nicoll  proceeded  direct  to  Karonga  in  the  Ilala,  bearing  letters  from  me  to 
the  North  Nyasa  Arabs.  I  remained  some  days  at  Bandawe,  concluding 
treaties  with  the  Atonga  chiefs.  Then  the  Charles  Janson  called  in  and  took  me 
down  to  a  point  fifteen  miles  distant  from  Jumbe*s  capital  at  Kotakota,  where 
its  commander  landed  my  expedition  on  the  lake  shore.  His  reasons  for  not 
proceeding  to  Kotakota  arose  from  two  considerations.  One  was  that  Jumbe, 
after  all,  was  an  Arab  and  might  make  common  cause  with  the  north-end 
Arabs  and  seize  the  steamer.  The  second  was  that  at  that  time  the  harbour 
at  Kotakota  was  unsurveyed  and  was  not  thought  to  be  safe  for  steamers 
of  considerable  draught.     I  must  admit  that  I  landed,  with  AH  Kiongwe,  my 

*  The  late  Mr.  Joseph  Thomson's  claims  to  fame  and  to  our  gratitude  are  so  numerous  that  it  is  no 
Itiss  to  him  to  spare  a  few  laurel  leaves  to  Mr.  Sharpe.  The  treaty  which  Mr.  Thomson  made  with 
the  Emperor  of  Sakatu  on  behalf  of  the  Royal  Niger  Company,  was  alone  a  transcendent  benefit  to 
British  mterests  never  to  be  forgotten. 


FOUNDING   THE    PROTECTORATE 


91 


headman,  and  my  small  expedition  of  fifteen  Makua  in  some  considerable 
trepidation.  The  Lakes  Company  half  feared  that  Jumbe  was  going  to  join 
the  Arab  movement  at  the  north  end.  At  this  time,  too,  all  Arabs  in  Central 
Africa  were  much  incensed  against  Europeans  by  their  quarrels  with  the 
Germans  and  the  Belgians.  The  way  in  which  they  would  receive  me,  there- 
fore, was  very  doubtful.  Makanjira  on  the  opposite  coast  had  recently  stripped 
and  flogged  a  British  Consul  and  held  him  up  to  ransom,  and  no  measures  had 
been  taken  to  avenge  this  insult.  After  landing  near  the  mouth  of  the  Bua 
river  I  sent  AH  Kiongwe  ahead  to  interview  Jumbe  and  to  deliver  to  him  the 
letters  that  I  had  brought  from  the  Sultan  of  Zanzibar.  On  my  journey  down 
the  east  coast  of  Africa  I  had  stopped  at  Zanzibar,  and  had  conferred  with  the 
late  Sir  Gerald  Portal,  then  Acting  Consul-General  at  that  place,  on  the  subject 


OTTTSKIRTS   OF    KOTAKOTA 


of  my  mission  to  Lake  Nyasa.  Mr.  Portal  (as  he  then  was)  had  interested 
himself  very  much  in  this  undertaking  to  make  peace  with  the  Arabs,  and 
urged  the  Sultan  Khalifa  bin  Said  (whose  own  envoy  previously  dispatched 
had  been  unsuccessful  in  bringing  the  Arabs  to  reason;  to  provide  me  with 
the  most  authoritative  letters  to  his  representatives  on  Lake  Nyasa,  notably  to 
the  Jumbe  of  Kotakota,  who  was  the  Sultan's  ostensible  wall,  or  representative. 
The  Sultan  Khalifa  willingly  gave  these  letters,  which  were  most  potent  in 
effecting  the  subsequent  results. 

Some  hours  after  AH  Kiongwe  had  started  for  Kotakota,  a  Swahili  soldier 
of  Jumbe's  came  rushing  down  into  our  camp,  dropped  on  one  knee  and  seized 
me  by  the  leg,  as  an  act  of  homage.  He  then  said,  *'  Master,  do  not  be  alarmed, 
Jumbe  sends  us  to  greet  the  representative  of  the  great  Queen  and  of  the 
Sayyid  of  Zanzibar,  and  he  has  told  us  to  fire  a  salute  of  guns  in  your  honour.'' 
Shortly  aftenvards  a  tremendous  fusilade  commenced,  much  to  the  alarm  of  my 
porters,  who  had  not  understood  the  purport  of  Jumbe's  message.  We  then 
started  for  Kotakota,  Jumbe's  men  insisting  on  carrying  me  in  a  machilla.^ 
Jumbe  was  waiting  to  receive  me  as  I  entered  the  town.  A  large  house 
and  compound  was  set  aside  for  my  use.     Oxen  were  killed  for  myself  and 

*  Machilla  is  a  Portuguese  word  (Latin  Maxilla),  which  is  universally  applied  in  Eastern  Africa  to  a 
hammock  or  chair  slung  on  a  pole  and  carried  by  porters. 


92 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


my  men,  and  quantities  of  provisions  of  all  kinds  were  sent  in  for  our 
sustenance.  After  a  day's  rest  I  had  a  long  conversation  with  Jumbe,  to 
whom  I  exposed  frankly  the  whole  political  situation.  As  .soon  as  I  had 
quitted  the  Shire  River  I  had  felt. free  to  take  open  political  action,  as 
after  my  stay  in  Lisbon  there  had  been  a  tacit  understanding  between 
the  Portuguese  and  ourselves  that  although  the  Shire  province  and  a  portion 
of  the  east  coast  of  Lake  Nyasa  were  territories  not  to  be  seized  by  either 
Power  without  arrangement,  the  west  coast  of  Lake   Nyasa  was  admittedly 

open  to  British  enterprise.  I  therefore 
advised  Jumbe,  who  was  now  practi- 
cally recognised  by  the  Sultan  of 
Zanzibar  as  an  independent  Prince, 
to  place  his  country  under  British 
protection,  and  to  mobilise  a  sufficient 
number  of  his  men  to  compel  the 
North  Nyasa  Arabs  to  agree  to  make 
terms  of  peace ;  and  in  the  event  of 
their  not  so  agreeing  to  place  this 
force  at  my  disposal  for  their  coercion. 
Jumbe,  in  return  for  all  these  services, 
was  to  receive  a  subsidy  of  ;6200  per 
annum.  The  slave  trade  was  to  be 
declared  at  an  end  in  his  dominions. 
After  one  day's  deliberation  with  his 
head  men,  Jumbe  assented  to  my 
propositions.  Treaties  and  agreements 
were  signed,  the  British  flag  was 
hoisted,  and  the  first  portion  of  British 
Central  Africa  was  secured.  I  should 
then  have  been  picked  up  by  the 
I  laid  and  conveyed  to  the  north,  but 
unfortunately  the  Ilala,  unknown  to 
me,  had  been  wrecked  in  a  storm, 
and  she  did  not  resume  her  voyages 
on  the  lake  for  several  years  after- 
wards. Meantime  I  waited  on  and 
on  at  Jumbe's.  treated  by  that  chief 
with  unwearied  hospitality,  though  I 
used  up  almost  all  his  stock  of  candles, 
and  consumed  all  his  supplies  of  tinned 
fruits.  The  only  thing  I  could  offer 
him  in  return  for  all  his  hospitality 
was  a  bottle  of  yellow  Chartreuse. 
Jumbe  wasa  very  strict  Muhammadan, 
especially  on  the  subject  of  alcohol,  but  he  suffered  much  from  asthma.  He 
appealed  to  me  repeatedly  for  medicine,  and  as  I  had  no  drugs  with  me  I 
was  in  despair,  until  it  occurred  to  me  that  a  small  glass  of  Chartreuse  might 
at  any  rate  distract  his  thoughts  if  it  did  not  remedy  the  asthma.  I  gave 
him  a  taste  of  what  he  called  "the  golden  water."  He  at  once  declared 
himself  cured,  and  the  least  I  could  do  was  to  hand  him  the  entire  bottle, 
which  he   spent,    I    believe,  several   months    in    consuming.      It  was  the  one 


THE   LATE  TAWAKALI    SUDI 

JUMBE  OF   KOTAKOTA,    WALI   OK   H.H.    THE  SULTAN    QY 
ZANZIBAR   ON    LAKE    NYASA 


FOUNDING   THE    PROTECTORATE 


93 


thing,  he  told  me  afterwards,  that  he  felt  obliged  to  deny  to  his  head  wife, 
'"  the  lady  Siena."  ^ 

At  last  my  detention  was  becoming  a  little  tedious,  and  I  was  very  anxious 
about  the  missing  steamer.  To  soothe  my  anxiety,  Jumbe  sent  for  his 
necromancer,  who   w^as   to   ascertain,  by  means   of  "  rami "   (sand),  what   the 


NORTH   NYASA   ARABS:    BWANA  'OMARI    IN   THE   FOREGROUND 


immediate  future  had  in  store  for  me  as  regards  steamer  communication. 
The  necromancer  informed  us  that  the  small  steamer  (the  //a/a)  had  run 
aground  on  the  rocks,  but  the  "  Bishop's  steamer  "  *^  would  shortly  call  for  me. 
This  information  turned  out  to  be  perfectly  correct,  and  no  doubt  the 
necromancer  had  other  sources  of  knowledge  than  those  which  were  occult. 

*  Or  the  '*bibi  mkubwa,"  (** great  lady")  as  she  was  commonly  called. 

*  The  Charles  Janson  used  to  be  always  called  by  the  Arabs,    "  Islima-al-Askaf,"  the   "Bishop's 
steamer." 


94  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

His  news  was  true,  for  eventually  the  Charles  Jansotiy  with  Archdeacon  Maples 
on  board,  came  to  fetch  me  and  convey  me  to  Karonga. 

I  found  on  arrival  here  that  Mr.  Nicoll  had  concluded  in  my  name  a 
truce  with  the  Arabs,  and  that  the  ground  was  prepared  for  negotiation. 
I  may  briefly  relate  that  as  the  Arabs  were  very  distrustful,  I  arranged  to 
meet  them  in  the  bush  midway  between  their  nearest  stockade  and  Karonga, 
stipulating  that  they  should  only  be  accompanied  by  a  small  escort,  and  that 
I  would  only  bring  with  me  the  same  number  of  men.  I  was  accompanied 
by  Mr.  NicoH,  Mr.  Monteith  Fotheringham,  and  a  few  armed  Atonga.  Mlozi, 
Kopakopa,  Bwana  'Omari,  Msalemu,  and  other  Arabs,  duly  met  me  at  the 
point  agreed  upon.  After  a  brief  discussion  I  read  out  to  them  the  terms  of 
the  treaty  which  I  proposed",  and  told  them  that  if  they  refused  it  we  should 
prosecute  the  war  to  the  bitter  end  until  not  one  of  them  was  left  in  the 
country.  They  accepted  these  terms  almost  without  deliberation  and  the 
treaty  was  forthwith  signed,  and  peace  was  declared. 

A  bull  was  killed  as  a  sacrifice,  and  the  flesh  was  distributed  amongst  our 
men  and  the  men  who  had  accompanied  the  Arabs.  On  the  following  day 
the  British  flag  was  run  up  at  Karonga,  and  the  native  chiefs  from  the 
surrounding  districts  came  in  and  signed  treaties,  accepting  British  protection. 
On  the  following  day  the  Arabs  paid  us  a  return  visit  at  Karonga,  signed 
treaties  of  protection  and  accepted  the  British  flag.  Mr.  Crawshay^  then 
arrived  from  Deep  Bay  with  a  large  number  of  Wahenga  chiefs  in  canoes, 
who  signed  treaties  of  protection.  Thus  protection  treaties  had  now  been 
concluded  between  Jumbe*s  territory  on  the  south-west  of  Lake  Nyasa,  and 
the  extreme  north-east  corner  of  the  lake. 

I  was  at  this  time  much  exercised  about  the  want  of  a  secure  harbour  at  the 
north  end  of  Lake  Nyasa.  Karonga  was  an  open  roadstead,  most  dangerous 
for  landing,  for  it  must  always  be  remembered  that  Lake  Nyasa  is  as  rough 
at  times  as  the  British  Channel,  with  heavy  breakers  on  unprotected  shores. 
The  existence  of  a  secure  harbour  in  Kambwe  lagoon,  3  J  miles  to  the  north 
of  Karonga,  had  not  then  been  made  known,  or  it  may  be  that  owing  to 
various  circumstances  it  did  not  then  exist  as  a  harbour  which  vessels  of 
considerable  draught  could  enter.  After  examining  carefully  the  north  coast 
of  Lake  Nyasa,  I  decided  to  secure  the  harbour  of  Parumbira,  at  the 
extreme  northernmost  corner  of  the  lake,  for  the  African  Lakes  Company. 
I  accordingly  bought  the  land  for  them,  and  placed  an  agent  there  to  build 
and  occupy.  Subsequently,  however,  by  the  Anglo-German  Agreement  of 
1890,  the  boundary  between  the  two  European  Powers  was  drawn  at  the 
River  Songwe,  and  Parumbira  fell  to  Germany.  It  is  now  the  headquarters 
of  the  German  Government,  on  Lake  Nyasa,  and  has  been  rechristened 
Langenburg. 

Only  one  week  was  occupied  at  Karonga  in  making  peace  with  the  Arabs  ; 
securing  North  Nyasa  by  treaty  ;  choosing  this  harbour  for  the  African  Lakes 
Company ;  and  arranging  my  caravan  for  Lake  Tanganyika.     But  the  reason 

'  Mr.  Crawshay,  originally  a  lieutenant  in  the  Inniskilling  Dragoons,  had  come  out  to  British  Central 
Africa  to  shoot  big  game,  and  had  joined  the  Lakes  Company's  forces  as  a  volunteer  in  the  war  against 
the  Arabs.  After  Captain  Lugard  had  captured  Deep  Bay,  an  important  harbour  on  the  north-west  coast 
of  Lake  Nyasa,  used  by  the  Arabs  as  the  end  of  a  ferry  to  the  east  side  of  the  Lake,  Mr.  Crawshay  for 
some  months  garrisoned  this  place  as  a  fort,  and  kept  the  Arabs  out  of  Deep  Bay.  He  acquired  a 
considerable  influence  amongst  the  Wahenga,  and  was  of  much  service  to  me  in  the  early  days  of  the 
Protectorate.  Until  quite  recently  he  was  Vice-Consul  for  the  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  but  retired  from  this 
appointment  on  account  of  ill-health. 


FOUNDING   THE    PROTECTORATE 


95 


why  it  was  possible  to  dispatch  such  a  mass  of  important  business  in  seven 
days,  was  that  I  was  most  ably  seconded  by  Mr.  J.  L.  Nicoll.  My  having 
secured  this  gentleman  at  Quelimane  as  my  second  in  command  really  did 
more  than  anything  else  to  secure  the  complete  success  to  my  mission.  We 
started  for  Tanganyika  on  the  loth  of  November,  1889.  To  obtain  as 
much  territory  for  England  as  possible  I  journeyed  at  first  in  a  northerly 
direction,  and  penetrated  as  far  to  the  north-east  as  the  southern  shores 
of  Lake  Rukwa,  a  salt  lake  of  considerable  size.  Mr.  Nicoll,  Dr.  Kerr  Cross 
(who  had  joined  us)  and  my.self,  were  the  first  Europeans  to  discover 
the  southern  end  of  this  lake.  The  country  all  round  Rukwa,  however,  was 
so  desolate  and  inhabited  by  such  a  reprehensible  set  of  slave  raiders,  that 
I  concluded  no  treaties  with  them,  and  was  thankful  to  get  my  expedition 
out  of  their  clutches  without  loss  of  goods  or  lives.  Returning  to  the 
beautiful  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  we  found  ourselves  again  among  people 


LANGENBURG,   CAPITAL  OF  GERMAN    NYASALAND 

who  were  warm  friends  of  the  British,  and  who  everywhere  concluded  treatie-s 
with  expressions  of  positive  enthusiasm.  The  A-mambwe,  especially,  had  come 
to  look  upon  the  British  as  their  champions  against  the  Arab  slave  traders, 
and  were  almost  frantic  in  their  expressions  of  friendship.  Nevertheless 
the  A-mambwe  were  very  quarrelsome  amongst  themselves,  and  when  I 
reached  the  London  Missionary  Society's  station  at  Fwambo,  about  thirty 
miles  from  the  south  end  of  Lake  Tanganyika,  I  found  the  Missionaries 
were  in  a  serious  fix.  In  the  first  place  they  had  been  for  more  than  a  year 
cut  off  from  supplies  and  letters  and  were  much  delighted  to  get  their  mails 
and  such  supplies  as  I  could  bring  them,  but  they  were  still  more  seriously 
embarrassed  because  two  chiefs  were  fighting  one  another,  and  their  servants 
had  left  them  to  join  the  respective  sides  to  which  they  belonged.  A 
little  good-humoured  argument,  however,  secured  peace  between  these  rival 
chieftains,  who  in  turn  concluded  treaties  with  us  ;  and  I  reached  the  south 
end  of  Tanganyika  with  no  further  difficulty  except  occasional  scares  amongst 
my  porters  caused  by  the  dread  of  Awemba  raiders.  At  the  south  end  of 
Tanganyika  I  was  greeted  by  Mr.  A.  J.  Swann,  who  was  the  master  of  the 
London  Missionary  Society's  steamer  on  that  lake.  Mr.  Swann  threw  himself 
heart  and  soul  into  assisting  me  in  my  projects.     Unfortunately  the   Mission 


96  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

steamer  was  laid  up  for  repairs,  but  Mr.  Swann  placed  their  sailing  boat  at 
my  disposal.  By  means  of  this  boat  I  visited  all  the  chiefs  on  the  south  end 
of  Lake  Tanganyika,  made  treaties  with  them,  and  further  penetrated  to 
the  settlements  of  Kabunda,  an  Arab  trader,  who  had  almost  constituted 
himself  a  native  chief.  It  was  important  in  those  days  to  conciliate 
Kabunda,  who  had  remained  neutral  in  the  war  between  the  Arabs  and 
Lakes  Company,  and  who  had  a  great  influence  over  the  native  chiefs.  He 
was  really  a  Baluch  in  origin,  not  an  Arab,  and  considered  himself  in  some 
respects  a  British  subject.  He  entertained  Mr.  Swann  and  myself  with  the 
greatest  hospitality,  and  assisted  us  to  enter  into  treaties  with  the  chiefs  of 
Itawa,  in  the  direction  of  Lake  Mweru.  This  being  the  limit  of  the  journey 
which  I  had  to  perform  (Mr.  Sharpe  was  working  for  me  to  the  west),  I 
decided  to  return  at  once  to  the  Shire  Highlands,  as  rumours  had  reached 
me  of  war  with  the  Portuguese.  It  was  a  great  disappointment  for  me  to 
turn  back  at  this  juncture,  as  I  desired  to  go  to  the  north  end  of  Tanganyika 
and  secure  for  England  the  north  end  of  that  lake,^  but  I  felt  it  to  be  my 
duty  to  get  through  to  the  coast  and  send  a  report  of  the  work  already  done ; 
so  I  reluctantly  postponed  the  completion  of  a  scheme,  which  was,  as  I 
hoped,  to  give  us  continuous  communication  between  Cape  Town  and  Cairo, 
either  over  international  waterways  or  along  British  territory.  On  my  return 
journey,  in  which  no  unpleasant  incident  occurred,  I  found  Mponda,  the 
Yao  chief  at  the  south  end  of  Lake  Nyasa,  in  a  more  reasonable  frame  of 
mind,  and  concluded  a  treaty  with  him.  I  reached  Mozambique  at  the  end 
of  January,  1890,  telegraphed  the  result  of  my  work  to  the  Foreign  Office, 
and  subsequently  proceeded  to  Zanzibar  to  make  arrangements  for  the 
conclusion  of  treaties  at  the  north  end  of  Tanganyika.  Not  being  able  to 
return  thither  myself,  as  my  health  was  failing,  I  entrusted  the  task  to  Mr. 
A.  J.  Swann,  and  sent  up  to  him  an  expedition  under  the  leadership  of  my 
invaluable  Swahili  headman,  Ali-Kiongwe.  Mr.  Swann's  e.xpedition  was 
entirely  successful.  Treaties  were  made  and  the  British  flag  was  planted  at 
the  extreme  north  end  of  Lake  Tanganyika.  Unfortunately,  however,  his 
treaties  arrived  too  late  to  be  taken  into  consideration  at  the  conclusion  of  the 
Anglo-German  Convention  ;  but  Lord  Salisbury  managed  to  secure  by  that 
Convention  facilities  for  the  crossing  of  German  territory  between  Tanganyika 
and  Uganda,  which  will  be  very  important  to  us  in  future  developments. 

In  forwarding  my  report  to  the  Foreign  Office  I  proposed  the  term  "  British 
Central  Africa"  for  the  territories  just  brought  under  British  influence.  Soon 
after  my  return  to  England  in  the  early  summer  of  1890  the  Anglo-German 
Convention  was  signed,  which,  among  other  important  gains  to  Great 
Britain,  set  a  seal  on  the  work  which  the  British  South  Africa  Company, 
Sharpe,  Nicoll,  Swann,  Fotheringham,  Buchanan  and  I  had  done.  This  was 
followed  by  an  abortive  Convenjtion  with  Portugal  which,  however,  proved  to 
be  the  basis  of  a  definite  understanding  concluded  with  that  Power  in  1891. 
In  the  spring  of  1891  the  British  Protectorate  over  the  countries  adjoining 
Lake  Nyasa  was  proclaimed,  and  by  the  Conventions  with  Germany  and 
Portugal,  the  remainder  of  British  Central  Africa  was  declared  to  be  an 
exclusively  British  sphere  of  influence. 

After  the  conclusion  of  the  Anglo-German  Convention  Her  Majesty  con- 
ferred on  Mr.  John  Buchanan  a  C.M.G.,  and  on  myself  a  C.B.  Mr.  W.  A. 
<'hurchill,  who,  during  my  absence  in  the  interior,  had  done  excellent  work 

*  With  land  hunger  Vappetit  vient  en  maitgeant. 


FOUNDING   THE    PROTECTORATE  97 

at  Mozambique,  when  matters  had  been  in  a  most  critical  state  with  Portugal, 
was  promoted  to  be  Her  Majesty*s  Vice-Consul ;  Mr.  Alfred  Sharpe  and  Mr. 
Alexander  Carnegie  Ross^  (who  had  been  British  Vice-Consul  at  Quelimane) 
were  equally  made  Commissioned  Vice-Consuls ;  Mr.  J.  L.  Nicoll  (who  had 
remained  a  year  at  Tanganyika  to  strengthen  the  British  position  at  the  south 
end  of  that  lake)  was  given  an  important  post  in  the  Administration  of  the 
new  Protectorate;  Mr.  John  Buchanan,  when  he  ceased  to  be  Acting  Consul, 
was  made  a  Vice-Consul ;  Mr.  Crawshay,  Mr.  Swann,  and  Mr.  Belcher  (the 
Commander  of  the  Universities  Mission  steamer  on  Lake  Nyasa)^  all  subse- 
quently joined  the  Administration  of  the  British  Central  Africa  Protectorate. 
Mr.  Monteith  Fotheringham,  the  agent  of  the  Lakes  Company  at  Karonga, 
who  had  rendered  me  very  great  services,  preferred,  however,  to  remain  in  the 
employment  of  the  African  Lakes  Company,  as  he  was  subsequently  offered 
the  important  post  of  manager  at  Mandala. 

In  the  autumn  of  1890  Her  Majesty's  Government  began  to  consider  the 
administration  of  these  new  territories.  It  was  finally  decided  to  confine  the 
actual  Protectorate  to  the  regions  adjacent  to  Lake  Nyasa  and  the  River  Shire, 
and  to  administer  that  Protectorate  directly  by  a  Commissioner  under  the 
Imperial  Government,  and  further  to  place  all  the  rest  of  the  Sphere  of 
Influence,  north  of  the  Zambezi,  under  the  Charter  of  the  British  South  Africa 
Company,  subject  of  course  to  certain  conditions.  I  was  appointed  to  be 
Commissioner  and  Consul-General  to  administer  the  Protectorate,  and  was 
chosen  by  the  British  South  Africa  Company  as  their  Administrator  north  of 
the  Zambezi,  an  unpaid  post  which  I  held  for  nearly  five  years.^ 

By  an  arrangement  between  the  Chartered  Company  and  Her  Majesty's 
Government,  the  former  contributed  annually  for  a  certain  number  of  years 
the  sum  of  ;6^io,ooo  per  annum,  for  the  maintenance  of  a  police  force  to  be 
used  by  me  indifferently  in  the  Protectorate  and  in  the  Company's  Sphere. 
The  Company  also  met  the  cost  of  administering  its  own  Sphere  of  Influence 
north  of  the  Zambezi,  and  further  agreed  to  provide  us,  by  arrangement  with 
the  African  Lakes  Company,  with  the  free  use  of  that  Company's  boats  and 
steamers.* 

On  my  return  to  British  Central  Africa  as  Commissioner  and  Consul- 
General  and  Administrator  for  the  British  South  Africa  Company's  territories 
to  the  north  of  the  Zambezi,  I  appointed  to  my  staff  Lieut.,  now  Captain,  B.  L. 
Sclater,  R.E.  (who  took  with  him  three  non-commissioned  officers  of  the  Royal 
Engineers) ;  Mr.  Alexander  Whyte,  F.z.s.  (as  a  practical  Botanist  and  Natural 
History  Collector);  and,  with  the  consent  of  the  Indian  Government,  engaged 

>  Now  H.M.  Consul  at  Bdra. 

^  Now  H.  M.  Vice-Consul  at  Quelimane. 

^  I  preferred  to  receive  no  pay  from  the  Company,  so  that  I  might  not  in  any  way  compromise  my 
position  as  an  Imperial  Officer. 

*  Roughly  speaking  the  Company  thus  pledged  itself  to  spend  about  ;i^  17,500  a  year  on  British 
Central  Africa.  For  the  first  two  years,  however,  the  average  amount  spent  per  annum  did  not  reach 
this  sum,  but  in  the  third  year  it  was  deemed  advisable  that  I  should  come  to  some  definite  agreement 
with  the  Company  in  regard  to  their  annual  contribution,  which  was  then  fixed  at  ;f  17,500.  In  addition 
to  this  allowance  Mr.  Rhodes  agreed  to  provide  as  much  as  ;^  10,000  for  the  special  purpose  of  conquering 
the  chief  Makanjira,  who  persistently  raided  the  south-eastern  portion  of  our  territories.  Of  this  sum  a 
little  over  ^4,000  was  actually  spent.  In  1894  this  arrangement  came  to  an  end.  At  the  l)eginninp;  of 
the  financial  year  1895,  ^^^  Company  ceased  to  provide  any  contribution  whatever  towards  the  admmis- 
tration  of  the  Protectorate,  and  the  Imperial  Government  returned  to  them  a  proportion  of  the  amounts 
already  contributed.  The  Company  in  1895  undertook  the  administration  of  ils  own  Sphere  at  its  own 
expense,  and  the  Protectorate  was  thenceforth  assisted  by  contributions  from  Her  Majesty's  Government 
only. 


98 


BRITISH    CENTRAL    AFRICA 


Captain  Cecil  Montgomery  Maguire^  (of  the  Haiderabad  Contingent  Lancers) 
to  raise  a  small  force  of  Indian  troops  as  a  nucleus  for  our  police  force  in 
Central  Africa.  Captain  Maguire  was  to  start  from  India  and  meet  me  at 
the  mouth  of  the  River  Chinde.  Captain  Sclater  and  the  rest  of  my  staff* 
were  to  leave  England  subsequent  to  myself  and  also  meet  me  at  Chinde.  In 
the  meantime  I  proceeded  to  Zanzibar  and  Mozambique,  to  make  arrangements 
for  the  disembarkation  of  my  expedition  at  the  mouth  of  the  Zambezi.  In 
the  autumn  of  1890  Lord  Salisbury  had  resolved  to  place  two  gunboats  on 
the  Zambezi,  and  these  vessels,  the  Herald  and  the  Mosquito,  were  very  ably 
put  together  at  Chinde  under  the  superintendence  of  the  Senior  Naval  Officer, 
Commander  J.  H.  Keane,  R.N.,  C.M.G.,  who  managed  to  launch  his  gunboats 
without  undue  friction  with  the  Portuguese.     All  the  various  sections  of  my 


SIKH   SOLDIERS   OK  THE  CONTINGENT   NOW   SERVING    IN    BRITISH   CENTRAL  AFRICA 

expedition  arrived  with  delightful  punctuality  at  Chinde,  and  with  the  aid  of 
the  two  gunboats  and  the  steamers  of  the  African  Lakes  Company  we  con- 
veyed men,  beasts,  and  goods  without  accident  to  Chiromo. 

By  the  Anglo-Portuguese  Convention  of  1891  we  had  lost  a  little  territory 
to  the  west  of  the  Shire  basin,  but  had  been  allotted  in  exchange  by  the 
Portuguese  a  portion  of  the  right  bank  of  the  River  Shire,  below  thelRuo 
Junction.  This  brought  the  British  Protectorate  almost  within  sight  of  the 
Zambezi.  On  my  journey  up  the  river,  therefore,  in  H.M.S.  Herald,  I  had  to 
fix  the  Anglo-Portuguese  boundary  according  to  the  Convention,  and  take 
over  political  possession  of  the  Lower  Shire  District. 

We  had  no  sooner  arrived  at  Chiromo  in  the  month  of  July,  1891,  than  we 
were  greeted  with  the  news  that  the  Yao  chief,  Chikumbu,^  had  attacked  the 
British   settlers   who   had   commenced   coffee-planting   in    that  countr>'.     The 

^  Captain  Maguire  obtained  from  the  Indian  Army  seventy  volunteers,  of  whom  about  forty  were 
Mazbi  Sikhs,  of  the  23rd  and  32nd  Pioneers,  and  the  remainder  Muhamniadan  cavalrymen  from  the 
various  regiments  of  Haiderabad  Lancers.  As  nearly  all  our  first  batch  of  horses  died  of  horse  sickness 
or  tsetse  fly.  the  Cavalry  became  useless  and  were  eventually  sent  back  to  India.  We  subsequenily 
decided  to  engage  in  future  nothing  but  Sikhs  for  our  Indian  Contingent. 

*  A  recent  arrival  in  the  Mianje  district,  who  had  developed  by  degrees  into  a  powerful  African 
chief. 


FOUNDING   THE    PROTECTORATE 


99 


ill-feeling  between  Chikumbu  and  the  British  was  of  some  years'  duration. 
Chikumbu  was  a  Yao  who  had  settled  amongst  the  peaceful  Nyanja  people 
of  Mlanje,  whom  he  had  been  gradually  subjugating  until  in  1890  they 
appealed  to  Mr.  John  Buchanan  for  protection.  The  old  Nyanja  chief, 
Chipoka,  had  died  in  1890,  and  on  his  death-bed  had,  with  the  consent  of 
all  his  sub-chiefs  and  subjects,  transferred  the  sovereign  rights  of  his  country 
to  the  Queen,  in  order  to  pledge  the  British  Government  to  the  protection  of 
the  indigenous  Nyanja  people  against  Yao  attacks.  Two  or  three  planters 
had  just  begun  to  settle  in  the  Mlanje  district,  and  although  they  had  paid 


H.M.S.    "mosquito,"   a   ZAMBEZI   GUNBOAT 


relatively  large  sums  to  Chikumbu  he  continued  to  extort  larger  and  larger 
payments  from  them  ;  and  at  last,  upon  their  refusing  to  give  any  more, 
committed  various  acts  of  violence,  and  stopped  the  natives  working  for  them. 
Chikumbu  was  a  very  great  slave  trader  and  kept  up  a  direcct  communication 
with  the  East  Coast  of  Africa  at  Angoche,  whither  his  caravans  of  slaves 
were  generally  forwarded.  He  was  allied  with  Matipwiri  and  other  Yao 
slave-trading  chiefs. 

Accordingly  Captain  Maguire  was  dispatched  two  days  after  our  reaching 
Chiromo,  with  a  force  of  Sikhs  to  bring  Chikumbu  to  reason.  The  campaign 
was  not  of  long  duration,  though  there  were  one  or  two  days  of  stiff  fighting. 
Chikumbu  fled  and  his  brother  was  taken  prisoner.  The  latter  was  eventually 
released  and  appointed  chief  in  Chikumbu's  stead,  upon  his  giving  promises 
of  good  behaviour  which  have  since  been  kept.  After  a  considerable  banish- 
ment Chikumbu  was  recently  allowed  to  return,  and  lives  now  as  a  private 
individual. 


loo  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

Whilst  Captain  Maguire  was  thus  engaged  I  had  to  spend  two  months  at 
Chiromo,  settling  a  great  many  matters  in  connection  with  the  Lower  Shire 
districts.  I  did  not  reach  Zomba  till  the  month  of  September  1 891,  and  here 
I  was  joined  by  Captain  Maguire.  After  a  brief  rest  we  were  both  obliged  to 
start  with  a  strong  expedition  for  the  south  end  of  Lake  Nyasa,  owing  to 
troubles  of  a  complex  kind  which  had  broken  out  between  Mponda  and  other 
Yao  chiefs,  and  between  Mponda  and  Chikusi,  a  chief  of  the  Southern  Angoni. 
We  took  with  us  a  force  of  70  Indian  soldiers  and  9  Zanzibaris ;  also  a 
7-pounder  mountain  gun,  and  marched  up  the  east  bank  of  the  Shire. 
Although  we  had  come  to  mediate  between  the  chiefs  whose  fighting  was 
temporarily  stopping  communications  on  the  Shire  and  were  not  bent  on  any 
punitive  measures  except  in  regard  to  Makanjira,  we  were  obliged  to  take 
considerable  precautions  against  Mponda,  who  was  uncertain  in  his  attitude 
towards  the  British,  and  who  waged  these  wars  chiefly  with  the  intention 
of  securing  slaves  for  the  Kilwa^  caravans  which  visited  his  country.  To 
avoid  coming  into  collision  with  him  unnecessarily  we  encamped  on  the 
uninhabited  reed  wilderness  opposite  his  main  town  on  the  east  bank  of  the 
Shire,  about  three  miles  distant  from  the  south  end  of  Lake  Nyasa.  Though 
some  of  these  Yao  chiefs  had  invoked  our  intervention  at  a  distance,  their 
attitude  became  suspiciously  hostile  upon  our  entering  their  country  with  an 
armed  force.  Accordingly  Captain  Maguire  deemed  it  prudent  to  throw  up 
fortifications  round  our  camp  opposite  Mponda's  town.  These  had  to  be 
erected  with  stealth  as  Mponda  was  continually  sending  to  enquire  what 
we  were  doing,  and  we  were  anxious  to  avoid  any  attack  on  his  part  until  we 
were  capable  of  defending  ourselves  and  our  stores.  Accordingly  the  defences 
of  what  Captain  Maguire  called,  half  in  fun,  "  Fort  Johnston,"  were  constructed 
during  the  day-time  in  separate  sections,  which  apparently  had  no  con- 
nection with  one  another.  Mponda  was  informed,  when  he  came  to  see 
what  we  were  doing,  that  these  pits  and  sections  of  embankment  were 
intended  as  sleeping  shelters  for  the  men.  We  then  took  advantage  of 
a  moonlight  night,  when  the  moon  was  half  full,  to  work  almost  twelve 
hours  on  end,  and  by  the  next  morning  our  camp  was  completely 
surrounded  by  mud  and  sand  breastworks  behind  a  rev^tement  of  bamboo. 
Before  this  point  was  reached,  however,  an  engagement  had  taken  place  with 
one  of  our  enemies.  Makandanji,  a  chief  who  dwelt  on  the  south-east  corner 
of  Nyasa,  had  tied  up  and  imprisoned  our  envoys.  His  town  was  about  seven 
miles  distant  from  Fort  Johnston.  Captain  Maguire  resolved  on  the  true 
Napoleonic  policy  of  crushing  our  enemies  singly,  and  not  waiting  for  them 
to  come  to  terms  as  to  a  combined  movement  against  us.  He  suddenly  fell 
on  Makandanji  and  drove  him  out  of  his  village,  releasing  our  imprisoned  men, 
and  scattering  Makandanji's  forces,  which  were  never  again  able  to  take  the 
field  against  us.  Mponda,  however,  instead  of  joining  Makandanji,  seized  the 
opportunity  to  capture  nearly  all  the  runaways,  whom  he  forthwith  marched 
off  to  his  own  town  and  sold  as  slaves  to  the  Swahili  caravans  waiting  there. 
Over  seventy  of  the  captives  he  had  the  insolence  to  drive  through  our  camp  at 
Fort  Johnston,  at  a  time  when  Captain  Maguire  was  absent  and  I  was  left  with 
only  ten  men.  As  soon  as  Captain  Maguire  was  back  and  the  little  fort  was 
completed,  I  summoned  Mponda  to  set  all  these  slaves  at  liberty.  He  declined 
to  do  so,  and  commenced  warlike  proceedings  against  us.  We  had  timed  our 
ultimatum  for  a  day  which  was  followed  by  full  moon,  and  resolved  to  attack 

*  Kilwa,  on  the  east  coast  of  Africa,  was  formerly  the  great  distributing  dep6t  of  the  N>*asa  slaves. 


FOUNDING   THE    PROTECTORATE  lor 

at  night.  Accordingly  at  nine  o'clock,  on  the  evening  of  the  19th  of  October, 
1891,  one  hour  after  the  expiration  of  the  term  given  for  the  restoration  of  the 
slaves,  we  fired  a  shell  across  the  river  into  Mponda's  town,  perhaps  a  quarter 
of  a  mile  distant.  Mponda  had  no  conception  of  the  range  of  artillery  fire, 
or  the  effects  of  incendiary  shells.  The  return  fire  of  his  guns  and  his  muzzle- 
loading  cannon  was  harmless,  as  we  were  almost  beyond  their  effective  range. 
A  few  more  shells  soon  set  much  of  Mponda*s  town  on  fire,  and  he  called  for 
a  truce.  This  was  granted,  but  he  only  made  use  of  it  to  withdraw  with  his 
women  and  ivory  to  a  strong  place  he  possessed  in  the  hills.  His  fighting  men 
remained  and  we  renewed  the  struggle,  which  we  kept  up  till  the  early  morning, 
when  we  landed  on  the  opposite  shore  and  drove  the  remainder  of  the  defenders 
out  of  Mponda's  town,  which  we  then  destroyed.  A  great  many  slaves  were 
found  by  us  in  the  town,  and  brought  over  to  our  camp.  Many  of  these 
wretched  people  had  come  from  vast  distances  in  the  interior  of  South  Central 


FORT  JOHNSTON    IN    1895 

Africa.  The  following  day  Mponda  asked  for  terms  of  peace,  and  peace  was 
eventually  concluded.  He  then  informed  us  as  to  the  whereabouts  of  the  slave- 
trading  caravans :  Captain  Maguire  pursued  these  people,  capturing  seven  of 
them  and  releasing  large  numbers  of  slaves.  The  terms  of  peace  offered  to 
Mponda  were  very  fair,  and  he  probably  rather  gained  in  power  by  coming  to 
an  understanding  with  us.  For  four  years  afterwards  he  kept  the  peace;  then 
in  the  belief  that  we  were  going  to  get  the  worst  of  it  at  the  hands  of  Zarafi, 
he  unwisely  went  to  war  once  more,  with  the  result  that  he  is  now  temporarily 
exiled  from  his  country. 

Makandanji,  the  first  chief  with  whom  we  had  fought,  acknowledged  the 
supremacy  of  Zarafi,  a  powerful  chief  who  dwelt  on  a  very  high  mountain  20 
miles  to  the  east  of  Fort  Johnston.  We  knew  little  about  Zarafi  in  those  days, 
except  that  he  had  not  long  succeeded  his  mother,  a  famous  woman-chief  called 
Kabutu.  Zarafi,  imagining  that  we  should  follow  the  attack  on  Makandanji  by 
an  advance  into  his  country,  sent  envoys  down  to  treat  with  us  for  peace.  We, 
therefore,  on  one  day,  concluded  treaties  with  Mponda,  Zarafi,  and  Makandanji, 
and  seemed  to  have  accomplished  the  pacification  of  South  Nyasa. 


I02  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

Encouraged  by  this  success,  we  then  and  there  resolved  to  undertake  the 
chastisement  of  Makanjira,  who  had,  as  already  related,  committed  various 
outrages  on  British  subjects,  and  had  recently  robbed  the  Universities  Mission 
of  a  boat  and  killed  some  of  their  boatmen.  We  hired  the  African  Lakes 
Company's  steamer  DomirUy  and  mounted  our  7-pounder  gun  in  the  bows 
Arriving  suddenly  off  Makanjira's  in  the  early  morning,  we  were  saluted  by 
volleys  from  his  fighting  men,  who  were  drawn  up  on  the  beach,  and  who  had 
evidently  been  expecting  our  arrival.  A  shell  landed  in  the  middle  of  this 
yelling  crowd  produced  an  impression  on  them  which  was  absolutely  novel,  and 
there  was  soon  not  one  of  the  enemy  in  sight.  After  setting  fire  to  a  portion 
of  the  town  with  other  shells,  I  effected  a  landing  with  a  small  number  of 
Sikhs,  whilst  Captain  Maguire  kept  the  enemy  at  bay  by  bombarding  the  town 
from  the  steamer.  We  managed  to  land  with  only  one  or  two  casualties,  and 
the  Sikhs  carried  off  two  of  Makanjira's  cannon  and  set  fire  to  one  of  his  daus.^ 
The  enemy,  however,  came  on  us  in  such  strength  that  we  had  to  retreat 
to  our  boat,  and  should  probably  have  not  escaped  with  our  lives  had  not 
Captain  Maguire  arrived  with  reinforcements.  He  drove  the  enemy  back  into 
the  town,  and  completed  the  destruction  of  the  dau. 

The  next  morning  Captain  Maguire  landed  in  force,  and  after  hard  fighting, 
in  which  several  of  our  Sikhs  were  severely  wounded,  he  captured  all  Makanjira's 
defences.  I  joined  him,  and  we  then  drove  the  enemy  out  of  the  huge  town, 
which  we  completely  destroyed.    We  also  destroyed  two  or  three  of  their  daus. 

After  waiting  a  day  in  vain  to  see  if  any  person  would  come  from  Makanjira 
to  treat  for  a  peace,  we  steamed  over  to  the  opposite  side  of  the  lake,  where  it 
was  necessary  to  come  to  an  understanding  with  Kazembe,  who  lived  opposite 
to  Makanjira  and  was  a  near  relation.  Lake  Nyasa  is  at  its  narrowest  opposite 
Makanjira's  town.  Its  breadth  here  is  probably  not  more  than  fifteen  miles. 
The  favourite  ferry  across  Lake  Nyasa,  therefore,  has  generally  been  between 
these  two  points,  the  one  on  the  eastern  shore  held  by  Makanjira,  the  other  on 
the  west  by  Kazembe.  Kazembe  was  a  great  slave  trader,  but  was  not  hostile 
to  the  British.  He  had  concluded  a  treaty  with  me  in  1890,  but  it  was 
necessary  to  warn  him  that  the  slave  trade  could  no  longer  continue.  He  took 
the  warning  in  good  part,  and  promised  good  behaviour  in  future.  This  promise 
was  not  faithfully  adhered  to,  and  the  result  was  that  Kazembe  was  exiled  from 
the  Protectorate  for  a  few  months,  but  was  subsequently  restored  to  power,  and 
is  now  chief  in  Makanjira's  place. 

After  leaving  Kazembe's,  we  revisited  Makanjira's  coast  in  the  Domira, 
Captain  Maguire  landed  at  a  town  belonging  to  Makanjira's  headman,  Saidi 
Mwazungu,  in  the  southern  part  of  Makanjira's  country,  for  the  purpose  of 
acquiring  information.  The  people  had  not  evinced  unfriendliness  as  we 
approached,  and  Captain  Maguire  landed  under  a  flag  of  truce.  He  was 
received  by  an  Arab  (who  was  said  to  have  been  a  native  of  Aden)  with  a 
show  of  courtesy,  but  no  sooner  had  he  reached  the  veranda  of  the  Arab's 
house  than  he  was  suddenly  fired  on  by  the  Arab  himself,  who  by  some 
marvellous  accident  missed  him,  though  only  two  or  three  yards  distant. 
Captain  Maguire  had  landed  with  only  six  men  ;  but,  hearing  the  shot,  I 
immediately  dispatched  reinforcements  to  his  assistance,  and  the  town  was 
soon  taken  and  destroyed.     The  two  remaining  daus  of  Makanjira,  in  search 

^  A  "dau"  is  an  Arab  sailing  vessel,  sometimes  of  considerable  size.  Spelt  phonetically  it  should 
be  dau^  but  the  British,  with  their  extraordinary  racial  perversity  in  matters  of  spelling,  prefer  without 
rhyme  or  reason  to  spell  it  "  dhow." 


FOUNDING   THE    PROTECTORATE 


103 


of  which  Captain   Maguire   had   landed,  were   either  not  there  or  had  escaped 
before  our  coming. 

We  now  returned  to  Zomba,  leaving  a  garrison  behind  at  Fort  Johnston.  We 
had  no  sooner  reached  Zomba  than  we  heard  of  trouble  from  Kawinga,  a  power- 
ful Yao  chief  who  lived  on  a  hill  which  was  at  the  north-eastern  extremity  of 
the  Zomba  range.  It  was  deemed  advisable  to  dispatch  an  expedition  against 
Kawinga,  and  this  was  accompanied  by  Mr.  John  Buchanan,  C.M.G.,  who  had 
become  a  Vice-Consul  in  the  service  of  the  Protectorate.  Kawinga's  fortress 
proved  however  to  be  a  much  harder  nut  to  crack  than  we  had  expected.  A 
gallant  attempt  was  made  by  Captain 

Maguire  and  Mr.  Buchanan  to  scale  the       ^  ^.  i 

hill  in  face  of  a  heavy  fire.  Captain 
Maguire  was  wounded  in  the  chest, 
several  of  our  men  were  killed  or 
wounded,  and  the  force  was  partially 
repulsed,  though  it  had  captured  nearly 
all  Kawinga's  positions  except  the 
highest,  and  had  so  far  scared  him  that 
he  treated  for  peace  and  obtained  it. 
After  the  conclusion  of  peace  with 
Kawinga,  Captain  Maguire  considered 
it  necessary  to  return  to  Fort  Johnston, 
to  complete  the  building  at  that  place, 
and  relieve  the  garrison.  He  was  to  be 
back  at  Zomba  to  spend  Christmas  with 
me,  but  I  was  doomed  never  to  see  him 
again. 

Upon  reaching  Fort  Johnston  he 
had  received  information  as  to  the 
locality  where  Makanjira's  two  daus 
were  hidden.  Without  waiting  to  con- 
sult me,  therefore,  he  started  in  the 
Domira,  with  a  small  force  of  Indian 
soldiers.  He  found  the  daus — in  a  little 
cove  close  to  where  Fort  Maguire  is 
now  situated,  and  somewhat  to  the  north  of  Makanjira's  main  town.  He 
landed  with  a  small  force  of  about  28  men,  and  was  proceeding  to  destroy 
and  incapacitate  the  daus,  when  Makanjira,  with  about  2,000  men,  attacked 
him.     He  retreated  to  the  beach. 

Unfortunately  a  storm  had  arisen  which  had  wrenched  his  boat  from  her 
moorings,  and  had  dashed  her  on  to  the  rocks.  The  Domira  in  endeavouring 
to  appi'oach  as  near  as  possible  in  order  to  come  to  his  assistance,  was  blown  on 
to  a  sand-bank,  and  stuck  fast  within  a  short  distance  of  the  shore.  When 
he  had  lost  three  of  his  men  Captain  Maguire  told  the  others  to  enter  the 
water  and  make  for  the  Domira.  After  seeing  them  off,  and  with  a  few  faithful 
Sikhs  repulsing  with  the  bayonet  the  onslaught  of  the  enemy,  he  turned  to  the 
water  himself,  but  just  as  he  was  nearing  the  steamer  a  bullet  apparently  struck 
him  in  the  back  of  the  head  and  he  sank.  Just  about  this  time  the  master 
of  the  Domira,  Mr.  Keiller,  was  wounded,  and  shortly  after  Mr.  Urquhart, 
the  second  engineer,  was  severely  wounded.  All  the  Indian  soldiers  except  the 
three  who  had  been  killed  reached  the  steamer  safely,  and  preparations  were  at 


CAPTAIN    CECIL   MONTGOMERY    MAGUIRE 
DIED  DECEMBER   15,    I&91 


I04  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

once  made  to  defend  the  Domtrd  from  the  attack  of  Makanjira's  men,  who  were 
at  very  close  range.  After  two  or  three  days*  incessant  fighting,  Makanjira's 
people  put  up  a  flag  of  truce.  His  envoys  were  received  on  board  and  offered, 
in  return  for  a  certain  ransom  (which  was  paid),  to  cease  fighting  and  to  assist  in 
moving  the  Domira  off*  the  sand-bank,  and  to  give  up  the  bodies  of  Captain 
Maguire  and  the  dead  sepoys.  The  negotiations  were  chiefly  conducted  by  Dr. 
Boyce^  and  Mr.  McEwan,*  in  order  that  the  two  wounded  Europeans  might  not 
be  shown  to  the  enemy.  After  peace  had,  seemingly,  been  concluded  with 
Makanjira's  envoys,  the  latter  said  that  no  effect  could  be  given  to  the  provisions 
of  this  agreement  until  the  white  men  had  visited  Makanjira  on  the  shore,  and 
as  an  extra  inducement  for  them  to  come  they  promised  Dr.  Boyce  that  he 
should  receive  for  burial  the  body  of  Captain  Maguire.  Owing  to  the  two 
wounded  officers  being  concealed  in  the  cabin  below,  it  appears  that  Makanjira  s 
envoys  imagined  Dr.  Boyce  and  Mr.  McEwan  were  the  only  white  men  on  the 
steamer.  They  therefore  made  a  point  of  insisting  they  should  both  come  to 
see  Makanjira. 

No  idea  of  treachery  seems  to  have  entered  the  minds  of  the  Europeans,  who 
did  not  even  think  of  insisting  on  Makanjira's  leaving  hostages  on  board,  whilst 
they  went  on  shore.  They  therefore  started  for  the  beach  with  only  a  few 
unarmed  attendants.  One  of  these  was  Captain  Maguire's  orderly,  an  Indian 
Muhammadan  soldier.  Soon  after  reaching  the  beach  an  Arab  led  this  orderly 
away  from  the  rest  of  the  party,  offering  to  show  him  Captain  Maguire's  body. 
So  far  as  is  known,  after  taking  the  orderly  for  a  roundabout  walk  he  urged  him 
strongly  to  return  to  the  boat,  which  the  man  did.^  Dr.  Boyce  and  his  party 
were  told  that  Makanjira  was  just  a  short  distance  from  the  shore,  in  the  bush^ 
awaiting  them.  They  were  thus  led  on  to  a  distance  of  perhaps  two  miles  from 
the  lake  shore ;  then  they  suddenly  found  themselves  surrounded  by  a  number 
of  Makanjira's  men,  at  the  head  of  whom  was  Saidi  Mwazungu,  a  man  half 
Arab  and  half  Yao.  Saidi  Mwazungu  suddenly  called  out,  "  Makanjira  has 
ordered  the  white  men  to  be  killed."  His  men  then  turned  their  guns  on 
the  party.  Mr.  McEwan  was  shot  repeatedly.  Dr.  Boyce  was  shot  several 
times,  but  did  not  die.  They  therefore  threw  him  down  and  cut  his  head 
off*.  The  Swahili  servants  who  had  accompanied  this  party  were  not  killed,  but 
secured  and  subsequently  sold  as  slaves.*  The  Atonga  steamer-boys  were 
killed,  or  left  for  dead.  One  of  these  Atonga,  however,  whom  the  Arabs 
believed  themselves  to  have  killed,  managed  in  spite  of  his  terrible  wounds  to 
crawl  by  degrees  to  the  lake  shore,  where  he  shouted  for  help.  He  was  got  on 
board  the  steamer,  and  gave  them  an  account  of  what  had  happened.  Mean- 
time the  survivors  in  the  steamer  heard  the  Yao  shouting  on  the  shore  that  all 
the  white  men  were  killed,  and  that  now  was  the  time  to  attack  the  steamer. 
The  Sikhs  behaved  splendidly,  but  the  hero  at  this  crisis  was  Mr.  Urquhart,  the 
wounded  engineer,  who  by  dint  of  almost  superhuman  efforts,  and  by  working 
at  the  dead  of  night,  managed  to  get  the  steamer  afloat.  After  a  five  days' 
detention — five  days  without  sleep,  in  constant  and  incessant  danger,  and  almost 

*  Dr  Boyce  was  a  Parsi  Doctor  of  Medicine,  who  had  been  engaged  by  me  at  Zanzibar  as  Surgeon 
to  the  Indian  contingent. 

*  The  first  engineer  of  the  Domira. 

^  The  orderly,  with  the  horror  of  what  had  taken  place  during  these  few  days,  subsequently  went  out  of 
his  mind,  and  was  never  able  to  give  a  coherent  account  of  the  circumstances,  but  it  is  believed  that  the 
Arab  did  not  wish  a  fellow  Muhammadan  to  be  killed,  and  therefore  induced  the  orderly  to  return  to 
the  steamer. 

*  After  the  most  extraordinary  adventures  they  succeeded  in  reaching  the  coast. 


FOUNDING   THE    PROTECTORATE  105 

without  food — the  steamer  floated  off  the  sand-bank  into  deep  water.  The 
7-pounder  g^n  was  silently  got  ready  by  the  Sikhs,  and  before  the  vessel 
steamed  away,  shells  were  fired  in  rapid  succession  into  howling  crowds  of 
Makanjira's  men,  who  were  dancing  round  camp  fires,  confident  that  a  few  more 
hours  would  see  the  Domira  in  their  possession. 

The  death  of  Captain  Maguire  tobk  place  on  the  iSth  December,  1891. 
No  news  of  it  reached  me  until  Christmas  Eve,  just  at  the  time  when  I  was 
expecting  him  to  arrive  for  Christmas  day.  I  left  at  once  for  Blantyre,  which 
I  reached  on  the  evening  of  Christmas  day,  and  there  conferred  with  Mr.  John 
Buchanan  and  Mr.  Fotheringham,  the  manager  of  the  African  Lakes  Company. 
The  latter  at  once  proffered  his  co-operation  in  meeting  the  difficult  situation 
on  Lake  Nyasa.  We  both  started  for  the  Upper  Shire  by  different  routes,  and 
reached  Fort  Johnston  at  the  end  of  December.  Here  we  found  that  the  chief 
Msamara  who  lived  a  little  below  Mponda  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Shire,  had 
turned  against  us  and  with  Zarafi  had  sent  a  force  of  men  to  attack  Fort 
Johnston,  and  although  nothing  more  had  come  of  the  attack  but  a  few  wild 
shots,  he  had  nevertheless  been  raiding  all  round  the  Fort. 

The  bad  news  had  brought  volunteers  hurrying  up  from  the  south.  Amongst 
them  came  Mr.  J.  G.  King,  from  Port  Herald ;  Dr.  A.  Blair  Watson ;  the  late 
Mr.  Gilbert  Stevenson  ;  and,  a  little  later  on.  Commander  J.  H.  Keane,  R.N.^ 
Fortunately  Mponda  had  remained  loyal,  and  although  for  a  few  days  the  Fort 
and  its  garrison  of  wounded  and  exhausted  men  lay  at  his  mercy,  he  had  not 
only  been  neutral  but  had  assisted  to  defend  the  place  against  Zarafi's  attacks. 
My  arrival  soon  restored  the  morale  of  the  Sikhs,  who  were  literally  in  tears  at 
the  death  of  their  commander,  but  the  Muhammadan  Indian  soldiers  had  not 
rallied  from  the  feeling  of  discouragement  caused  by  this  disaster.  Soon  after- 
wards they  had,  in  fact,  to  be  sent  back  to  India,  though  there  were  men 
amongst  them  who  had  strikingly  distinguished  themselves.  It  must  be 
remembered,  however,  that  they  were  all  cavalry  men,  and  not  used  to  fighting 
on  foot,  or  on  board  a  ship,  and  all  things  considered  behaved  as  well  as  might 
be  expected.  The  Sikhs,  however,  throughout  all  this  crisis,  never  showed  their 
sterling  worth  more  effectually. 

Another  attack  on  Makanjira  was  impossible  until  we  had  got  gunboats  on 
the  lake.  So  I  decided  to  restore  our  prestige  by  subduing  those  enemies  who 
were  nearer  at  hand  and  more  vulnerable,  to  wit,  Msamara  and  Zarafi.  The 
chief  Msamara  was  captured  and  imprisoned  in  the  fort,  together  with  some 
of  his  headmen,  whilst  an  enquiry  was  instituted  into  his  culpability  for  the 
recent  raids.  I  regret  to  say  that  whilst  in  prison  he  poisoned  himself  but 
it  was  fortunately  done  with  the  knowledge  and  connivance  of  his  followers  and 
consequently  no  slur  was  cast  on  the  Administration  for  his  death,  his  headmen 
themselves  asserting  that  their  chief  had  committed  suicide  because  he  believed 
he  was  going  to  be  hanged,  an  eventuality,  however,  of  which  there  was  little 
probability.  The  war  against  Zarafi  was  a  more  difficult  matter.  I  was  able 
with  the  help  of  the  volunteer  officers  and  the  Sikhs  to  capture  all  Zarafi 's 
villages  in  the  plains  with  relatively  little  loss  of  men  ;  but  to  attack  Zarafi 
in  the  hills  was  another  matter.  While  on  our  way  thither,  all  Mponda's  men 
who  were  acting  as  our  porters  ran  away,  and  we  were  therefore  compelled  to 
retreat  to  Fort  Johnston.  Under  the  circumstances  the  flight  of  our  porters  was 
the  best  thing  that  could  have  happened  to  us,  since  we  were  embarked  on  an 
enterprise  far  beyond  our  strength,  although  we  did  not  know  it  at  that  time; 

^  Afterwards  made  C.M.Ci. 


io6  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

for  another  march  would  have  brought  us  to  the  base  of  Zarafi's  hill,  where  we 
should  probably  have  met  with  as  serious  a  disaster  as  subsequently  happened 
to  another  expedition. 

During  all  this  crisis  we  were  much  helped  by  the  Angoni,  under  Chifisi, 
who  dwelt  at  the  back  of  Mponda's  country.  These  men  came  down  in 
hundreds  to  assist  us  in  fighting  Zarafi.  Unfortunately  the  Angoni  are  not 
as  brave  as  they  look,  and  we  subsequently  found  they  were  very  broken  reeds 
to  depend  on  in  hard  fighting.  Zarafi  had,  nevertheless,  suffered  so  much  at 
our  hands  by  the  loss  of  all  his  villages  in  the  plains  that  he  ceased  his  raids, 
and  commenced  negotiations  for  peace.  No  doubt  these  negotiations  were  only 
intended  to  gain  time,  but  I  welcomed  them  as  a  valuable  respite,  and  did  not 
intend  to  take  any  further  steps  against  Zarafi  until  I  could  receive  reinforce- 
ments of  oflficers  and  men.  By  the  capture  of  Zarafi's  low-lying  towns  I  had 
prevented  for  some  time  to  come  any  attempts  on  his  part  to  obstruct  the 
navigation  of  the  Shire ;  this  end  was  still  further  attained  by  the  imprisonment 
of  the  chief  Msamara  who  subsequently  committed  suicide  at  Fort  Johnston. 

I  again  returned  to  Zomba,  determined  to  apply  myself  now  to  the  con- 
.sideration  of  our  financial  position,  for  since  my  arrival  in  British  Central  Africa 
in  July,  1 891,  I  had  not  had  a  spare  day  in  which  to  turn  to  accounts.  Up  till 
this  time  it  must  be  remembered  that  I  had  to  be  my  own  secretary  and 
accountant,  and  the  pressure  of  office  work  was  almost  more  than  I  could 
stand.  Captain  Sclater  was  busily  employed  in  making  roads,  and  this  work 
was  so  necessary  I  did  not  like  to  call  him  off  it  for  other  purposes  ;  Mr.  Sharpe 
was  not  yet  back  from  leave  of  absence  in  England. 

I  had  just  begun  to  settle  down  once  more  to  office  work  at  Zomba  when 
another  message  arrived  with  disastrous  news.  On  the  24th  February,  1892, 
I  received  a  note  from  Dr.  Watson  informing  me  that  after  my  departure  a 
large  force  of  Angoni  had  come  down  and  placed  their  services  at  the  disposal 
of  Mr.  J.  G.  King,  whom  I  had  left  in  charge  of  Fort  Johnston  as  chief  of  that 
station  ,  and  Mr.  King  had  resolved,  then  and  there,  to  attack  Zarafi,  who  had 
once  more  become  troublesome;  that  the  expedition  had  resulted  in  a  very 
serious  repulse  at  the  foot  of  Zarafi's  hill,  in  which  but  for  the  dogged  bravery 
of  a  Naval  Petty  Officer,  Mr.  Henry  Inge,  lent  by  the  river  gunboats,  nearly  the 
whole  of  the  expedition  must  have  been  annihilated.  He  went  on  to  relate 
that  at  the  beginning  of  the  engagement  Mr.  King  had  been  shot  through  the 
lungs,  and  that  he  himself  (Dr.  Watson)  had  been  wounded  in  the  fight ;  that 
5ome  six  Indian  soldiers  had  been  killed  and  several  Swahilis ;  that  another 
fourteen  Indian  soldiers  were  missing;^  and  that  the  7-pounder  gun  which 
Mr.  Inge  used  till  the  ammunition  was  exhausted,  to  distract  the  enemy  from 
following  the  defeated  expedition,  had  had  to  be  abandoned  in  the  bush. 
Fortunately  at  this  juncture  Commander  Keane,  R.N.,  was  staying  with  me, 
having  only  quitted  Fort  Johnston  a  short  time  before.  On  my  invitation  he 
returned  there  and  restored  the  situation  as  well  as  possible. 

I  am  glad  to  say  that  both  Mr.  King  and  Dr.  Watson  recovered  from  their 
wounds.  The  recovery  of  the  former  was  quite  extraordinary  as  he  was 
practically  shot  through  the  lungs.'-  Our  ultimate  losses  were  found  to  have 
consisted  of  the  7-pounder  gun,  a  few  rifles  and  cases  of  ammunition  ;  and  six 

^  These  subsequently  reached  Fort  Johnston  by  devious  routes,  one  after  more  than  thirteen  days  in 
tlie  bush  with  nothing  but  grass,  leaves,  and  roots  to  eat. 

■'  For  years  afterwards  he  was  Nice-Consul  at  Chinde  ;  but  to  my  deep  regret  died  at  that  place 
-on  November  30,  1896. 


FOUNDING   THE    PROTECTORATE 


[07 


Indian  sepoys  and  three  Zanzibar!  soldiers  killed.  This  time  may  be  taken  as 
the  nadir  of  our  fortunes.  The  slave -trading  chiefs  at  Chiradzulu  began  to 
give  trouble  by  committing  highway  robberies  on  the  roads  between  Zomba 
and  Blantyre  and  Blantyre  and  Matope.  The  Ndirande  ^  people  joined  them  in 
these  depredations,  and  Matipwiri,  a  very  powerful  Yao  chief  who  dwelt  near 
the  Portuguese  border  at  the  back  of  the  Mlanje  Mountain,  together  with 
Kawinga,  sent  out  raiding  parties  from  time  to  time  to  rob  our  carriers  and  to 
carry  ofif  slaves.  Makanjira  having  received  an  enormous  accession  of  strength 
and  prestige  from  the  death  of  Captain  Maguire,  crossed  the  lake  to  the  opposite 
peninsula  of  the  Rifu,  and  with  the  aid  of  the  disaffected  party  there  drove 
Kazembe  from  power  as  punishment  for  his  alliance  with  the  English. 
Kazembe  fled  to  the  south.  Thus  both  sides  of  this  narrow  ferry  were  in  the 
hands  of  the  enemies  of  the  English.  Makanjira's  next  attempts  were  directed 
against  Jumbe,  and  he  began  a  war  with  him,  which  eventually  terminated  in  the 
following  year  by  Jumbe*s  loss  of  all  his  territory  except  his  capital  town. 
Fortunately  the  Arabs  at  the  north  end  were  not  ready  to  recommence  the 
war ;  and  Mponda,  who  held  the  key  of  the  situation  at  the  south  end  of  Lake 
Nyasa,  remained  faithful  to  us.  Then  Mr.  Sharpe  returned  from  leave  of 
absence  in  England,  and  the  terrible  pressure  of  the  official  work  on  my 
shoulders  was  lightened.  Moreover  I  received  my  first  accountant  in  the 
person  of  Mr.  William  Wheeler, 
who  assisted  me  in  getting  our 
finances  into  order. 

Captain  Sclater  had  been  of 
great  assistance  to  me  through 
this  trying  time,  and  had  made 
a  rapid  journey  to  the  coast  to 
obtain  things  that  were  wanted, 
and  to  engage  some  more  men. 
Amongst  his  recruits  was  Mr, 
Wheeler,  who  had  come  to  us 
from  a  position  of  accountant  in 
the  service  of  the  Union  Steam- 
ship Company. 

But  in  March,  1892,  after  the 
disaster  at  Zarafi*s,  the  fortunes  of 
the  young  Administration  seemed 
certainly  at  their  lowest  ebb  ;  and 
what  distressed  me  much  more  at 
this  period  than  our  wars  with  the 
Yao,  or  any  trouble  that  could 
be  given  by  the  black  men,  was 
the  attitude  of  the  white  settlers 
and  some  of  the  missionaries.  It  cannot  be  said  that  the  Administration  in  its 
earlier  days  was  universally  popular  amongst  the  Europeans,  especially  those 
who  dwelt  in  the  Shire  province.  The  proclamation  of  the  British  Protectorate 
had  been  followed  by  a  wholesale  grabbing  of  land;  or,  where  it  is  not  fair 
to  describe  the  acquisition  of  land  as  "grabbing,"  at  any  rate  huge  tracts 
had  been  bought  for  disproportionate  amounts  from  the  natives,  and  there  were 

*  Ndirande  is  a  mountain  overlooking  Blantyre. 

-  Now  the  chief  accountant  of  the  British  Central  Africa  Administration. 


MR.    WILLIAM   WHKKLER 


io8  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

many  claims  that  overlapped  and  required  adjustment.  The  settlers  knew  that 
I  was  entrusted  with  the  task  of  enquiring  into  and  settling  their  claims,  and 
many  of  them  anticipated  with  some  accuracy  that  their  claims  would  not  be 
sanctioned,  either  wholly  or  even  at  all.  They  were  therefore  disposed  to 
weaken  my  position  as  much  as  they  could  by  cavilling  at  all  my  acts,  and 
making  all  the  capital  they  could  out  of  my  misfortunes.  In  regard  to  a 
certain  Missionary  Society  in  the  Shire  Highlands,  its  hostile  attitude  was 
of  more  complex  origin.  It  had  acquired,  and  acquired  by  good  means,  a  very 
strong  influence  over  the  natives.  Its  representatives  were  men  of  great 
natural  ability  who,  whether  conscious  of  it  or  not,  enjoyed  to  the  full  the 
power  of  governing.  Still  they  had  not  been  appointed  to  administer  this 
country  by  the  Government,  and  it  was  impossible  to  allow  them  to  take 
the  law  into  their  own  hands  as  they  were  in  the  habit  of  doing,  by  holding 
informal  courts  and  administering  justice.  Loth  as  I  was  to  come  into  conflict 
with  any  Missionary  Society — as  I  have  always  been  a  sincere  admirer  of  the 
results  of  mission  work — I  found  myself  inevitably  at  issue  with  certain  men 
at  Blantyre  and  elsewhere.  It  is  not  worth  while  describing  the  ways  in  which 
through  misrepresentation  in  the  Press,  letters  to  the  Foreign  Office,  and  strong 
local  opposition  my  life  and  the  lives  of  my  subordinates  were  made  unbearable : 
for  I  suppose  the  same  conflict  has  occurred  with  the  commencement  of  all 
attempts  to  found  an  Administration  among  headstrong,  sturdy  pioneers.  I 
merely  refer  to  these  foolish  dead-and-forgotten  quarrels  because  in  a  small  way 
they  enter  into  the  woof  of  our  history  at  this  period,  for  I  cannot  too  strongly 
assert,  as  a  fact  perhaps  not  sufficiently  appreciated,  that  during  my  seventeen 
years'  acquaintance  with  Africa  the  difficulties  raised  up  against  my  work  by 
Europeans  have  infinitely  exceeded  the  trouble  given  me  by  negroes  or  Arabs. 

Captain  Charles  Edward  Johnson,  of  the  36th  Sikhs,  arrived  in  the  month 
of  June  to  take  the  place  of  the  late  Captain  Maguire.  He  soon  brought  order 
into  our  disorganised  forces,  and  there  accompanied  him  a  small  detachment  of 
Sikhs  which  proved  a  very  useful  reinforcement.  Commander  Keane  was 
released  by  the  arrival  of  Captain  Johnson  and  received  a  C.M.G.  in  reward 
for  his  services.  Before  Captain  Johnson  could  get  an  expedition  ready  I  was 
obliged  to  dispatch  a  small  force  under  Mr.  Sharpe  and  Captain  Sclater  against 
the  highway  robbers  of  Mt.  Chiradzulu.^ 

At  the  beginning  of  July,  1892,  we  received  a  visit  from  Admiral  Nicholson, 
who  was  commanding  on  the  Cape  Station.  Being  absent  at  Fort  Johnston, 
I  dispatched  Mr.  Sharpe  to  meet  the  Admiral  at  Chiromo,  whilst  I  journeyed 
to  Blantyre.  As  regards  bad  news,  I  had  one  hour  after  I  reached  Blantyre 
which  I  shall  always  remember  as  a  kind  of  Job's  experience.  Within  that 
one  hour  arrived  the  following  pieces  of  information.  First  came  a  messenger 
to  say  that  a  raid  had  been  made  by  the  Yao  on  the  Blantyre-Zomba  road,  a 
caravan  attacked  and  a  quantity  of  goods  stolen.  Then  came  another  message 
from  Katunga,  on  the  Shire,  with  the  news  that  Mr.  Sharpens  boat,  on  his  way 
down  to  Chiromo,  had  been  capsized  by  a  hippopotamus,  and  that  Mr.  Sharpe 
and  all  his  companions  were  drowned.^     Lastly  came  the  post  with  the  news 

'  Chiradzulu  is  a  very  fine  picturesque  mountain  about  5,500  ft.  in  height,  midway  between  Zoniba  and 
Blantyre.  The  Yao  settled  on  this  mountain  since  the  Yao  raids  of  186 1-2  and  -3  were  very  troublesome 
to  the  first  missionaries  and  planters,  and  gave  a  great  deal  of  annoyance  in  the  early  days  of  the  Adminis- 
tration.    They  were  thoroughgoing  slave-raiders,  and  were  not  finally  subdued  until  the  winter  of  1893. 

^  Two  or  three  of  Mr.  Sharpe's  men  were  drowned,  but  he  fortunately  succeeded  in  swimming 
ashore  where  he  was  eventually  picked  up  by  a  native  canoe.  He  lost,  however,  everything  he  had  with 
him,  including  some  valuable  guns. 


FOUNDING   THE    PROTECTORATE 


109 


that  the  New  Oriental  Bank,  in  which  were  invested  a  good  proportion  of  our 
funds,  had  failed.^  Following  close  on  this  tale  of  disasters  came  Admiral 
Nicholson,  fortunately  accompanied  by  Mr.  Sharpe,  the  news  of  whose 
untimely  death  had  fairly  taken  all  the  heart  out  of  me.  Probably  Admiral 
Nicholson  has  never  known  to  this  day  why  I  received  him  with  so  much 
emotion. 

In  May,  1892,  Mr.  John  L.  Nicoll  had  returned  from  leave  of  absence  in 
England,  and  had  entered  the  service  of  the  British  Central  Africa  Administra- 
tion.    He  was  appointed  collector  for  the  South  Nyasa  district,  to  reside  at 


MR.    NICOLL's   house  AT   FORT  JOHNSTON 


Fort  Johnston.  In  nearly  three  years'  residence  he  effected  a  remarkable 
improvement  in  affairs  on  the  Upper  Shire  and  at  the  south  end  of  the 
lake.  Zarafi's  raids  were  checked,  the  river  was  policed  and  rendered  safe, 
and  Mponda  was  kept  in  order.  In  the  summer  of  this  same  year  two 
important  expeditions  arrived  in  the  country.  One  was  the  dispatch  from 
England  of  three  gunboats  in  sections  for  Lake  Nyasa  and  the  Upper  Shire. 
These  boats  had  been  obtained  by  the  initiative  of  Lord  Salisbury,  when 
the  news  first  arrived  of  the  disasters  on  the  lake,  consequent  on  the  death 
of  Captain  Cecil  Maguire.  The  Admiralty  undertook  the  charge  of  furnishing 
these  gunboats,  and  they  were  sent  out  under  the  charge  of  Lieutenant 
(now   Commander)    Hope    Robertson,   R.N.^     The   other  expedition  was   that 

*  The  Bank  subsequently  paid  us  in  full,  though  not  for  about  a  year  afterwards. 

'  For  his  services  in  conveying  these  gunlx^ats  to  Lake  Nyasa,  bringing  about  their  rapid  and  success- 
ful construction,  and  afterwards  commanding  them  on  I^ke  Nyasa  in  various  campaigns,  Lieutenant 
Robertson  was  promoted,  and  was  made  a  C.M.CJ. 


I  lO 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


under  Major  von  Wissmann,  who  at  the  head  of  a  large  expedition  was  con- 
veying a  steamer  (named  after  himself)  to  Lake  Nyasa,  on  behalf  of  the 
German  Anti-Slavery  Society. 

In  the  middle  of  1892  our  Customs  Regulations  received  definite  form. 
Mr.  H.  A.  Hillier,  who  had  joined  the  Administration  in  1 891,  was  made 
principal  Customs  Officer  at  Chiromo,  and  the  efficiency  of  our  Customs 
service  owes  much  to  his  organization.  In  1896  he  was  made  Director-General 
of  Customs.  In  1892  also  the  first  steps  were  taken  to  institute  a  Hut  tax. 
The    question    of  the   taxation   of  the    natives    was    in    its    initial    stages    a 


TREES   PLANTED    BY   MR.    NICOLL   AT   FORT  JOHNSTON    (TWO   YEARS*   GROWTH) 

difficult  one  to  settle.  In  taking  over  the  Lower  Shire  district  on  the  west 
bank  of  the  Shire  from  the  Portuguese  in  the  middle  of  1891,  the  natives 
who  had  been  accustomed  to  pay  taxes  to  the  Portuguese  had  asked  me 
to  assess  their  taxes,  if  possible,  at  a  lower  rate.  On  enquiry  I  ascertained 
that  they  had  paid  a  capitation  tax  of  something  like  half-a-crown  a  head 
per  annum,  which  tax  was  levied  indifferently  on  men,  women,  and  children. 
The  chiefs  of  the  Lower  Shire  natives,  however,  were  of  opinion  that  they 
would  prefer  a  Hut  to  a  Poll  tax.  Estimating  the  average  number  of  hut 
occupants  at  three,  their  former  Poll  tax  would  have  resulted  in  each 
household  paying  about  ys.  6d.  per  annum.  I  therefore  proposed  to 
compromise  the  matter  by  fixing  the  annual  Hut  tax  at  6s.  per  annum 
and  abolishing  the  Capitation  Dues.     The  natives  seemed  well  satisfied  with 


FOUNDING   THE    PROTECTORATE 


1 1 1 


this  proposal.  Gradually,  however,  it  became  obvious  that  if  the  natives  of  the 
Lower  Shire  district  were  to  pay  taxes,  the  other  natives  of  such  portions 
of  the  Protectorate  as  we  were  obliged  to  administer  at  our  own  cost,  should 
do  the  same.  For  a  year  I  talked  this  over  with  the  leading  chiefs  of  the  Shire 
province  (the  only  portion  of  the  Protectorate  we  were  then  prepared  to 
administer),  and  got  most  of  them  to  agree  to  the  principle  that  the  natives 
of  the  Protectorate  should  contribute,  to  a  reasonable  extent,  towards  the 
revenue.  The  idea  of  taxing  the  natives,  however,  was  strongly  opposed  by 
the  missionaries,  and  also  by  many  of  the  traders  and  planters,  who  believed 
it  would  cause  discontent  and  would  make  native  labour  dearer.  I  still  held 
to    my  view,  nevertheless,  that   those  natives  of  British  Central   Africa    who- 


THE   NY  AS  A   C;  UN  BOATS   IN    NKATA   BAY,   WEST   NY  AS  A 


were  unable  to  protect  themselves  from  the  incursions  of  slave  raiders,  or 
who  by  their  own  misconduct  compelled  the  intervention  of  the  Administration 
for  the  maintenance  of  law  and  order,  should  contribute  as  far  as  their  means 
allowed  towards  the  revenue  of  the  Protectorate,  for  it  was  not  to  be  supposed 
that  the  British  taxpayer,  or  the  British  South  Africa  Company,  could  continue 
indefinitely  finding  subsidies  for  the  support  of  the  Protectorate;  that  the 
Protectorate  must  justify  its  existence  by  eventually  supporting  itself  on  its 
locally  raised  revenue.  At  a  meeting  with  some  of  the  leading  missionaries 
and  planters  at  Blantyre,  in  the  winter  of  1892,  I  agreed  to  propose  to  the 
Secretary  of  State  that  the  Hut  tax  should  be  reduced  to  3^-.  per  annum,  and 
eventually  it  was  fixed  in  the  Queen's  Regulations  at  that  sum. 

The  only  other  taxation  incumbent  on  the  natives  was  the  taking  out 
of  a  gun  license,  for  which  the  same  sum  was  charged  as  in  the  case  of 
Europeans  and  foreigners,  namely,  £1  for  five  years,  or  in  the  case  of  the 
natives,  4s,  per  annum.     The  payment  of  the  Hut  tax  was  at  first  confined 


112  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

to  certain  portions  of  the  Shire  province.  Gradually  it  was  enforced  through- 
out the  Shire  province.  At  the  present  time  it  is  enforced  throughout 
all  the  Protectorate  with  the  exception  of  that  portion  of  the  West  Nyasa 
district  which  is  inhabited  by  the  northern  Angoni,  who  at  present  decline 
to  pay  taxes  to  the  Administration  but  on  the  other  hand  remain  quiet 
and  free  from  civil  war,  and  therefore  do  not  compel  us  to  go  to  the  expense  of 
administering  their  country.  Eventually,  no  doubt,  by  friendly  arrangement  the 
Hut  tax  will  be  enforced  even  here.  In  all  other  parts  of  the  Protectorate  it  has 
never  been  put  in  force  without  a  proper  arrangement  being  come  to  with  the 
native  chiefs,  except  in  such  districts  as  where  the  chiefs — Yao  or  Arabs — 
have  gone  to  war  with  us.  Then  as  one  of  the  conditions  of  peace  or  one  of 
the   results   of  conquest,  the    Hut    tax   has   been   eventually   enforced.     The 


LAKE   ROAD,   CHIROMO 

revenue  derived  from  this  source  in   1893  was  about  ;^  1,639.     In  the  financial 

year  ended  March  31st,  1896,  it  amounted  to  jf  4,695  in  value.    7>^iU.^^'<t^-«'**^»*-ti-^2,  ''"^ 

In  the  early  autumn  of  1892  I  commenced  the  land  settlement,  and  by"^^^' 
degrees  every  estate  or  land  claim  between  the  Lower  Shire  district  and  Lakes 
Tanganyika  and  Mweru  and  the  Upper  Luapula  was  visited  and  enquired  into 
by  Mr.  Alfred  Sharpe,  Captain  Sclater  or  myself  Admissible  claims  were 
divided  into  two  kinds :  claims  to  mineral  rights,  and  claims  to  land  with  or 
without  mineral  rights.^  In  the  case  of  treaties  conferring  mining  rights 
the  investigation  was  relatively  simple.  The  chief  or  chiefs  alleged  to  be 
the  grantors  of  such  concessions  were  examined  and  if  they  admitted  making 
the  grant,  and  it  could  be  shown  that  they  had  received  fair  value  for  the  same, 
the  mining  concessions  were  confirmed.  In  regard  to  land,  long  occupation 
and  improvements  were  regarded  as  almost  the  best  titles.  These  qualifications, 
however,  applied  to  very  few  estates  in  British  Central  Africa,  as  in  most  cases 

*  Inadmissible  claims  were  those  which  conferred  sovereign  rights  or  granted  any  monopoly  of  trade 
inconsistent  with  the  various  treaties  with  Foreign  Powers  to  which  Great  Britain  was  a  party. 


FOUNDING   THE    PROTECTORATE  113 

the  settlers  had  only  arrived  after  the  proclamation  of  the  Protectorate.  Only 
in  cases  of  very  lengthy  occupation  and  much  cultivation  or  building  were 
claims  sanctioned  which  were  unsupported  by  properly  executed  documents. 
Even  when  land  had  been  purchased,  and  the  sale  on  the  part  of  the  chief  was 
not  repudiated,  and  the  deed  of  sale  was  authentic,  the  concession naire  was 
required  to  show  what  consideration  had  been  paid,  and  if  the  grantor  was  not 
considered  to  have  received  fair  value  for  his  land  the  grantee  had  either  to 
supplement  his  first  payment  by  another,  or  the  area  of  his  estate  was  reduced 
to  an  extent  fairly  compatible  with  the  sum  paid.  As  land  was  of  very  little 
value  before  the  establishment  of  the  Administration,  and  as  undoubtedly  the 
settlers  had  conferred  great  benefits  on  the  country  by  clearing  and  planting, 
land  was  not  rated  at  a  high  value  in  these  settlements.  Threepence  an  acre 
was  the  maximum,  and  this  only  in  exceptionally  favoured  districts  like  Mlanje 
and  Blantyre.  Sometimes  the  value  of  the  land  was  computed  at  as  low  as  a 
halfpenny  an  acre.  Except  on  very  small  estates  the  existing  native  villages 
and  plantations  were  exempted  from  all  these  purchases,  and  the  natives  were 
informed  that  the  sale  of  the  surrounding  land  did  not  include  the  alienation  of 
their  homes  and  plantations.  The  fact  is,  that  at  the  time  the  chiefs  sold  land 
to  the  Europeans  they  were  very  heedless  of  the  results.  All  they  desired  was 
the  immediate  possession  of  the  trade  goods  or  money  given  in  payment.  The 
tenure  of  the  land  in  reality  was  tribal  ;  that  is  to  say  theoretically  the  chief 
had  no  right  to  alienate  the  land,  but  he  had  assumed  such  right  and  his 
assumption  was  tacitly  accepted  by  his  people.  It  was,  however,  highly 
necessary  to  secure  these  people  from  the  results  of  their  chiefs  heedlessness,  in 
many  cases,  as  they  were  apt  to  become  the  serfs  of  the  white  man  when  he 
began  to  appear  as  their  over-landlord.  One  of  the  results  of  the  land  settlement, 
therefore,  was  to  completely  free  the  natives  from  any  dependency  on  the  white 
settler,  by  restoring  to  them  the  inalienable  occupancy  of  their  villages  and 
plantations.  Moreover,  in  sanctioning  the  various  concessions  in  the  name 
of  the  Government  we  reserved  to  the  Crown  the  right  to  make  roads,  railways, 
or  canals  over  anybody's  property  without  compensation  ;  the  control  of  the 
water  supply ;  and  where  mining  rights  were  included  in  the  concession,  a 
royalty  on  the  produce  of  the  mines.  In  each  deed  (the  deeds  were  styled 
"Certificates  of  Claim")  the  boundaries  of  the  property  were  set  forth  with 
sedulous  accuracy,  and  it  was  provided  that  all  these  deeds  should  be  even- 
tually supplemented  by  an  authoritative  survey  made  by  a  Government  surveyor, 
a  process  which  is  fast  being  completed.  On  the  whole  the  settlement  was  well 
accepted  by  the  Europeans,  while  it  gave  distinct  satisfaction  to  the  natives,  and 
was  approved  without  modification  by  Her  Majesty *s  Government.  Throughout 
the  whole  settlement  I  believe  I  am  right  in  saying  that  only  one  dispute 
regarding  boundaries  was  brought  into  Court  and  not  settled  amicably  and 
informally  in  my  office.  When  all  these  claims  had  been  arranged  I  concluded, 
on  behalf  of  the  Crown,  treaties  with  all  the  chiefs  of  the  Protectorate,  securing 
Crown  control  over  the  remainder  of  the  land,  which  the  natives  were  hence- 
forth unable  to  alienate  without  the  sanction  of  the  Commissioner.  In  some 
cases  large  sums  of  money  were  spent  by  the  Government  in  buying  up  the 
waste  land  from  the  natives  where  it  was  deemed  advisable  that  a  complete 
control  over  its  disposal  should  be  exercised.  Except  over  a  small  area  of  land 
which  is  absolutely  Crown  property,  a  percentage  on  the  selling  price  or 
the  rent  is  paid  to  the  native  chief  when  portions  of  the  Crown  lands  are 
let  or  sold. 


114 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


In  the  same  year,  1892,  the  foundation  of  our  Courts  of  Justice  was  laid. 
At  my  recommendation  a  number  of  officials  were  given  warrants  as  magis- 
trates by  the  Secretary  of  State,  and  were  thus  enabled  to  administer  justice 
to  Europeans  and  other  foreigners  under  the  "  Africa  Orders  in  Council  of  1889 
and  1893."^  It  was  theoretically  supposed  that  justice  to  natives  only  was  ad- 
ministered by  native  chiefs,  but  in  reality  the  native  courts  are  practically  held 
by  British  magistrates  in  the  name  of  the  local  chief  or  as  his  representative  ; 
for  over  most  of  the  districts  the  native  chiefs  have  surrendered  to  us  by- 
treaty  their  justiciary  rights.  Still,  in  some  districts,  native  chiefs  are 
encouraged  to  settle  all  minor  cases  themselves,  and  the  natives  are  not 
allowed  to  go  to  the  European  magistrate  except  where  the  native  chief  cannot 
be   relied  on  for  fairness.     No  native  chief  or  British  magistrate,  however,  is 


THE   KATUNC.A    ROAD   IN    PRE-ADMINISTRATION    DAYS 

allowed  to  carry  out  a  death  sentence  on  a  native  without  first  referring  the 
case  to  the  Commissioner  for  consideration,  and  obtaining  his  sanction  to  the 
verdict  and  sentence. 

As  far  back  as  1891  we  had  commenced  road-making.  Captain  Sclater 
had  begun  to  clear  a  road  from  Chiromo  to  Zoa,  with  the  intention  of  ultimately 
carrying  on  this  road  to  Mlanje  in  one  direcion,  and  to  Blantyre  and  Zomba  in 
another.  It  was  found,  however,  to  be  of  more  urgent  need  to  the  community 
tiiat  the  road  between  Katunga  and  Blantyre  should  be  made  passable  for 
waggons.  Consequently  Captain  Sclater  undertook  the  reconstruction  of  the 
Katunga  road,^  which  proved  to  be  a  very  lengthy  and  expensive  business 
and  is  not  yet  finally  completed. 

In  the  summer  of  1892  Captain  Stairs'  expedition  returned  from  Katanga, 

^  Thai  of  1889  only  applied  to  British  and  British  protected  subjects  ;  that  of  1893  g^^'^  "s,  in  virtue 
of  treaties  concluded,  jurisdiction  over  all  subjects  of  Foreign  States  within  the  limits  of  the  Protectorate. 

'^  It  had  been  originally  made  by  ihe  Lakes  Company,  but  it  was  little  more  than  a  rough  track, 
without  bridges,  and  almost  impassable  for  waggons. 


FOUNDING   THE    PROTECTORATE 


115 


through  Nyasaland  ;  but  Captain  Stairs,  who  had  been  very  ill  with  black-water 
fever,  died  at  Chinde  before  he  could  embark  on  the  ocean  steamer. 

1893  dawned  on  us  with  somewhat  brighter  prospects.  I  had  spent  a  very 
pleasant  Christmas  at  Blantyre,  and  had  been  cheered  by  the  safe  return  of  Mr. 
Sharpe  from  an  extensive  journey  through  the  Tanganyika,  Mweru,  and  Upper 
Luapula  districts,  where  he  had  added  to  our  geographical  discoveries,  and  had 
settled  many  outstanding  difficulties  with  Arabs  and  native  chiefs.  M.  Lionel 
D^cle  arrived  at  the  beginning  of  1893  on  a  scientific  mission  for  the  French 
Government.  In  the  course  of  this  mission  he  had  already  travelled  over 
South  Africa  from  the  Cape  to  Nyasaland.    He  eventually  continued  his  journey 


CAPTAIN   SCI.ATER  S   ROAD   TO   KATUNGA    IN    PROCESS  OF   MAKING 

through  British  Central  Africa  to  the  south  end  of  Tanganyika,  and  thence  to 
Uganda  and  the  east  coast  of  Africa. 

In  January,  1893,  came  Mr.  J.  F.  Cunningham  to  be  my  private  secretary.^ 

In  the  month  of  February,  1893,  however,  we  found  ourselves  face  to  face 

with   a  serious  outbreak  on  the   Upper   Shire,  an  outbreak  of  slave  traders 

that  had  long  been  threatened.     The  upper  portion  of  the  Shire  was  ruled  over 

by  a  chief  named  Liwonde,  who  was  a  relation  of  Kawinga's.  ^     Liwonde  had 

^  In  1894  he  became  Secretary  to  the  British  Central  Africa  Administration.  Mr.  Cunningham, 
besides  organising  our  printing  establishment  and  Ciazette,  was — among  many  other  accomplishments — a 
great  road-maker.  He  constructed  the  road  between  Blantyre  and  Zomba  as  a  *' holiday  task"  while  I 
was  absent  in  South  Africa  in  the  spring  of  1893  To  praise  one's  private  secretary  is  scarcely  less 
difficult  than  to  praise  oneself;  such  commendation  must  be  private.  Still  I  should  like  to  acknowledge 
here  how  much  I  owe  to  this  gentleman's  unflagging  industry  and  zealous  co-operation  during  the  period 
between  1893  and  the  present  day. 

'  Kawinga,  to  whom  constant  allusion  will  be  made  in  the  pages  of  this  History,  was  a  powerful  Vao 
chief  of  the  Machinga  clan,  who  had  settled  on  Chikala  Mountain,  near  the  north-west  end  of  I^ke 
Chiloa,  at  the  end  of  the  fifties  or  beginning  of  the  sixties.  He  is  referred  to  by  Livingstone  in  his 
iMSt  Journeys  as  Kabinga.  The  chief  Liwonde  was  his  relation,  and  had,  with  some  Yao  followers, 
acquired  the  sovereignty  of  the  Upper  Shire  about  thirty  years  ago. 


ii6 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


received  me  well  in  1889,  and  had  made  a  treaty  with  me ;  but  he  was  incurably 
addicted  to  the  slave  trade.  An  old  Arab,  named  Abu  Bakr  (a  white  Arab  of 
Maskat),  lived  with  Liwonde,  and  acted  as  go-between  for  the  supply  of  slaves 
to  the  Swahili  caravans.  At  the  beginning  of  1893  one  of  these  caravans  had 
kidnapped  and  carried  off  some  boys  at  Zomba  who  worked  in  Mr.  Buchanan's 
plantations.  Captain  C.  E.  Johnson,  who  happened  to  be  staying  at  Zomba, 
hurried   off  in  pursuit  of  the   caravan,   accompanied    by    Mr.   George    Hoare 

(formerly  a  N.C.O.  in  the 
Royal  Engineers)  and  a  few 
Makua  police.  They  came  up 
with  the  caravan  in  Liwonde's 
country,  and  succeeded  in  re- 
leasing the  Zomba  boys,  to- 
gether with  a  large  number  of 
other  slaves,  but  the  slave 
traders  managed  to  elude  them. 
On  the  return  of  the  rescue 
party  to  the  banks  of  the 
Shire,  in  Liwonde's  country, 
they  were  attacked  by  Li- 
wonde*s  men.  One  of  the 
Makua  police  was  killed,  and 
others  were  badly  wounded, 
while  Mr.  Hoare  had  to  swim 
for  his  life  down  the  river  till 
he  was  out  of  the  range  of 
the  enemy's  guns.  Fortunately^ 
the  rescued  slaves  were  not 
recaptured.  The  whole  river 
now  was  up  in  arms  wherever 
there  were  Yao.  A  boat  of 
the  African  Lakes  Company 
was  coming  down  in  charge 
of  some  Atonga.  It  was  seized 
by  Liwonde*s  men,  and  one  of 
the  Atonga  had  his  throat  cut  in  Liwonde's  presence.  Others,  though 
wounded,  managed  to  escape.  Finally,  the  Dotnira  unfortunately  chose  this 
moment  to  make  one  of  her  rare  periodical  trips  down  the  Upper  Shire  to 
Matope,  and  stuck  on  a  sandbank  opposite  to  one  of  Liwonde*s  towns.  When 
we  heard  the  news  at  Zomba,  we  scraped  together  all  the  forces  we  could 
collect,  but  these  only  consisted  of  Makua  police  and  Atonga  labourers.  With 
these  men  Captain  Johnson  and  I  started  for  the  Upper  Shire.  At  Mpimbi 
we  were  joined  by  Messrs.  Sharpe,  Gilbert  Stevenson,  and  Crawshay.  We 
fought  our  way  up  the  river  to  the  place  where  the  Domira  was  stranded.  Here 
we  were  over  three  days  in  a  very  disagreeable  position.  Our  camp  was  com- 
manded by  the  higher  ground  in  the  vicinity,  from  which  the  natives  continually 
fired  into  us.  They  also  kept  up  a  steady  fire  on  the  Domira,  and  Mr.  Steven- 
son, in  going  on  board  that  steamer,  was  gravely,  almost  mortally,  wounded.  ^ 

^  He  was  shot  through  the  Ixxly  just  in  front  of  the  kidneys,  but  made  a  marvellous  recovery,  and 
subsequently  did  excellent  service  in  the  Protectorate  in  the  Mlanje  district.  When  out  shooting  game  in 
September,  1896,  his  gun  went  off  accidentally  and  killed  him. 


MR.  J.    F.    CUNNINGHAM 


FOUNDING   THE    PROTECTORATE  117 

We  were  getting  anxious  as  to  our  position,  owing  to  the  possible  exhaustion  of 
our  ammunition  and  the  fact  that  the  enemy  had  reoccupied  the  banks  of  the 
Shire  behind  us,  thus  cutting  us  off  from  overland  communication  with  the 
Shire  Highlands.  The  boats  which  attempted  to  go  up  or  down  the  Shire 
were  fired  at,  and  several  boatmen  and  soldiers  were  wounded.  Mr.  Alfred 
Sharpe  was  the  first  to  relieve  the  acute  crisis  of  our  position  by  stealing  out 
with  a  few  Atonga  from  the  stockade,  and  lying  in  ambush  along  one  of  the 
paths  which  the  enemy  used  for  advancing  in  our  direction.  In  this  way  he 
was  able  to  pick  off  with  his  rifle  several  of  Liwonde*s  most  noted  warriors  and 
leaders,  and  this  considerably  damped  the  enemy's  ardour.^ 

On  the  third  day  of  our  beleaguered  state  there  arrived  very  welcome 
reinforcements  in  the  shape  of  Herr  von  Eltz  (who  was  in  charge  of  Major 
von  Wissmann's  expedition,  intended  to  convey  a  steamer  to  Lake  Nyasa), 
a  German  non-commissioned  officer,  a  Hotchkiss  gun,  and  about  twenty 
Sudanese  soldiers.  These  really  relieved  us  from  any  peril,  and  enabled 
those  who  had  been  three  days  in  this  camp  without  sleep  or  a  proper 
meal,  to  get  both  whilst  the  new  arrivals  kept  watch.  On  the  following  day 
Lieut.  Commander  Carr,  who  commanded  H.M.S.  Mosquito  on  the  Zambezi, 
arrived  with  Dr.  Harper  and  about  twenty  blue-jackets. 

We  had  succeeded  in  getting  the  Doniira  off  the  sand-bank,  she  had 
gone  to  Matope,  and  returned  with  Mr.  Sharpe  and  further  reinforcements. 
We  were  now,  therefore,  able  to  advance  up  the  river  and  capture  Liwonde's 
town  which  was  done  without  much  serious  fighting;  the  brunt  of  the  struggle 
falling  to  Herr  von  Eltz  and  his  Sudanese,  and  Mr.  F.  J.  Whicker.^  Liwonde's 
town  was  on  an  island  and  our  forces  advanced  on  both  banks  of  tha  river. 
We  managed  to  wade  across  one  branch  of  the  Shire  to  the  island  which  the 
enemy  had  already  abandoned  on  our  near  approach. 

Lieut.  Carr  and  the  blue-jackets  assisted  us  in  building  two  forts  and  then 
returned  to  the  lower  river,  one  or  two  blue-jackets  remaining  behind  for  a 'few 
weeks  to  assist  us  in  garrisoning  the  forts.  Commander  Robertson  and  myself 
passed  on  up  the  river  to  the  limits  of  Liwonde's  country  in  the  Domira,  but 
had  no  fighting  of  any  serious  character.  Liwonde  fled  and  we  did  not  succeed 
in  capturing  him  for  several  years,  during  which  he  occasionally  gave  us  trouble.^ 
The  pacification  of  the  country  was  ably  effected  by  Mr.  F.  J.  Whicker,  under 
whose  superintendence  the  Upper  Shire  has  become  one  of  the  most  prosperous 
districts  in  the  Protectorate,  with  an  abundant  and  contented  population. 

In  March,  1893,  Captain  Sclater  was  obliged  to  return  to  England  on 
account  of  his  health  and  the  expiration  of  the  time  for  which  he  was  seconded. 
In  April  I  started  for  South  Africa  to  confer  with  Mr.  Rhodes  and  the  secretary 
of  the  South  Africa  Company,  in  regard  to  the  contributions  to  be  furnished 
by  that  Company  towards  the  adminstration  of  British  Central  Africa. 

On  my  way  down  the  river  I  met  Lieut,  (now  Lieut.- Colonel)  Edwards,  who 
had  arrived  from  India  with  a  large  reinforcement  of  Sikhs.  For  two  years 
past  the  armed  forces  in  the  Protectorate  had  consisted  of  one  English  officer, 
sixty  to  seventy  Indian  Sepoys,  and  about  fifty  Zanzibaris  and  Makua  (the 
latter  being  natives  of  Mo9ambique).  The  Indian  soldiers,  again,  included  over 
forty  Mazbi  Sikhs  and  about  twenty  Indian  Muhammadan  cavalrymen.  The 
term  for  which  these  men  were  allowed  to  volunteer  from  the  Indian  Army 

'  An  important  settlement  was  afterwards  founded  here  and  called  "Fort  Sharpe." 

'  Subseauently  collector  for  the  Upper  Shire  district. 

*  He  is  nowever  now  exiled  to  Port  Herald  on  the  Lower  Shire. 


ii8  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

would  expire  in  the  summer  of  1893,  and  I  had  therefore  made  arrangements 
with  the  Indian  Government  for  their  relief,  but  had  asked  on  this  occasion,  at 
the  suggestion  of  Captain  Johnson,  that  when  the  second  Indian  contingent 
was  sent  out,  all  the  new  Indian  soldiers  should  be  Jat  Sikhs  and  not  Mazbis.^ 

Lieut.  Edwards  brought  with  him  a  hundred  Sikhs  on  this  occasion.     A  few 

months  after  their  arrival  the  time  expired  of  the  Mazbi  Sikhs,  and  the  few 

Indian  cavalrymen  that  remained  were  sent  back  to  India. 

-  *^  Later  on  in  the  year  another  hundred  Sikhs  arrived,  under 

the  c<immand   of  Lieut,   (now  Captain)   W.   H.   Manning, 

thus  bringing  up  the  full  strength  of  our  Indian  contingent 

to  200  men,  which  maximum   it  has  not  since  exceeded. 

In  re^L;ard  to  black  troops  we  had  first  of  all  tried  natives  of 

j^^^^^^         Zanzibar,  but  these  men  had  not  proved  very  satisfactory. 

^^■V  ^^  rhey  uere  nearly  as  expensive  as  the  Sikhs,  they  were  not 

^^P^    *^>*„^^^  all  of  them  very  brave  or- reliable  in  warfare,  and  they 

y  were   difficult   to  procure,  owing  to  the   restrictions 

which  had   been   placed  at  that  time  on  the  ex- 
patriation of  the  natives  of  Zanzibar  ;  restrictions 
f  A  -   1 1      jB  rendered  absolutely  necessary  owing  to  the  drain 

yf  -^         ^^,^^.  ^"  ^'^  population  of  that  island  caused  by  the 

m-  ^^^^  engagement  of  Zanzibaris  for  the  many  expedi- 

C^*       ^'  ^^^-         V^Bk  tions  engaged  in  African  exploration.   I  had  been 

much  struck  with  the  good  qualities  of  the  Makua 
of  Mozambique  The  escort  I  had  taken  with 
me  in  my  journeys  of  1889-90  was  composed  of 
Makua,  recruited  at  Mo<;ambique.  I  had  also 
obtained  Makua  for  the  Thomson-Grant  expedi- 
tion to  Bangweolo,  and  these  men  after  Mr. 
Thomson's  return  had  passed  into  our  police 
force.  We  were  also  beginning  to  employ  as 
police  the  A  tonga  natives  of  West  Nyasa.  I 
therefore  decided  to  pay  off  and  send  back  our 
few  remaining  Zanzibaris,  and  to  replace  them 
by  Makua  and  natives  of  Nyasaland.  Meantime, 
however,  at  a  suggestion  from  the  late  Mr.  Portal, 
i.iEUT.-coL.  c.  A.  EDWARDS  I  tricd  the  experiment  of  forming  a  small  corps 

of  Zanzibar  Arabs  (most  of  them  ex-soldiers  of 
the  Sultan  of  Zanzibar's  bodyguard).-  These  men  were  of  poor  physique,  and 
we  only  kept  them  in  our  service  from  one  to  two  years.  They  were  very  plucky 
and,  contrary  to  some  people's  anticipation,  perfectly  loyal. ^ 

During  the  year  1893  arrangements  which  had  been  begun  for  the  division 
of  the  British  Central  Africa  Protectorate  and  the  adjoining  Sphere  of  the 

*  I  need  scarcely  remind  my  readers  that  the  Sikhs  are  not  a  race  but  merely  a  religious  sect.  They 
are  really  a  section  of  the  Panjab  people  of  very  varied  types  of  humanity,  some  being  dark  coloured  and 
of  almost  Dravidian  aspect,  others  having  faces  of  Greek  outline  and  very  pale  complexions.  The  Jat 
belongs  to  the  cultivator  class  and  is  supposed  to  l)e  much  more  aristocratic  than  the  Mazbi.  Between  the 
Mazbis  and  the  Jats,  however,  I  could  see  very  little  difference  in  general  appearance,  and  to  my  thinking 
both  kinds  of  Sikhs  were  equally  good ;  perhaps  in  one  or  two  points  the  Mazbis  had  the  advantage  in 
regard  to  physical  endurance,  while  on  the  other  hand  the  Jats  were  more  cheery  in  disposition,  and  even 
more  loyally  enthusiastic  than  the  Mazbis.  In  the  days  when  the  Sikhs  set  much  store  by  caste,  the  Mazbis 
were  the  "sweepers  "  or  lowest  caste  of  all,  and  by  some  were  hardly  recognised  as  proper  Sikhs. 

*  A  detailed  description  of  our  present  military  force  in  the  Protectorate  will  be  found  in  the 
Appendix  to  this  chapter. 


FOUNDING   THE   PROTECTORATE 


119 


I^ritish  South  Africa  Company  into  administrative  divisions  were  completed 

The  Protectorate  was  divided  into  twelve  districts,  the  names  of  which  will 

be  found   in  the  accompanying  map.  and  that  portion  of  the  South  Africa 

Company's  territory  which  we  were  able  to  administer  was 

divided  into  the  districts  of  Tanganyika,  Chambezi,  Mweru 

and  Luapula.^ 

During  my  absence  in  South  Africa  Mr.  Sharpe  had 

taken  an  important  step  towards  controlling  the  Mlanje 

district,  and  guarding  our  south-eastern  border  from  the 

raids  of  a  very  troublesome  chief,   known  as   Matipwiri. 

To  check  these  raids  he  had  founded  Fort  Lister  in  the 

pass  between  Mounts  Mlanje  and  Michesi.     The  idea  of 

building  a  fort  at  this  spot  was  no  new  one.     It  had  first 

occurred  to  Consul  Hawes  in  1886,  and  I  had  taken  up 

the  idea  again  after  my  first  visit  to  Mlanje  in  1892.    After 

that  journey  I  decided  that  as  soon  as  we  could  obtain 

reinforcements  from  India,  we  should  build  forts  to  guard 

the  north  and  south  ends  of  Mlanje   Mountain.      These 

forts  I  subsequently  named  Fort  Lister  and  Fort  Anderson 

to  commemorate  the  sympathy  and  assistance  I  had  re- 
ceived at  the  hands  of  Sir  Villiers  Lister  and  Sir  Percy 

Anderson    of   the    Foreign    Office,   in    carrying    out    my 

projects  for  the  suppression  of  the  slave  trade.     Captain 

C.  E.  Johnson  commenced  the  construction  of  Fort  Lister, 

but  although  his  advent  in  this  country  was  warmly 
welcomed  by  the  indigenous  A-nyanja 
chiefs,  it  was  anything  but  welcome  to 
the  Yao  slave  traders,  prominent  among  whom  was  the 
chieftain  named  Nyaserera.^  Nyaserera  seems  to  have  disliked 
the  idea  of  making  an  attack  in  force  on  the  fort  as  long  as 
it  was  defended  by  a  white  man,  but  the  idea  apparently 
occurred  to  him  to  attempt  the  assassination  of  Captain 
Johnson.  That,  at  least,  was  the  belief  of  most  of  the  native 
witnesses  whom  we  subsequently  examined.  What  took  place 
was  this :  One  night  as  Captain  Johnson  was  sitting  down 
to  dinner  in  his  temporary  bungalow  he  heard  a  slight  noise 
in  his  adjoining  sleeping  apartment,  and  on  looking  up  saw 
a  man  with  a  spear  concealed  behind  a  portiere.  He  at  once 
attempted  to  seize  the  intruder.  The  latter  grappled  with 
him  in  the  bath-room,  to  which  he  had  retreated,  and  stabbed 

k   B^^HJjji        ^^^   Captain    till    he   swooned.      He    then    made   off   before 

f  fl^^^^Huti     assistance  came.      This  news   was   conveyed  to  me  by   the 
Indian  hospital  assistant  at  Fort  Lister. 

I  hurried  over  there  with  Mr.  Whyte,  and  such  was  the 
panic  created  amongst  the  natives  by  Nyaserera's  sudden 
evidence  of  hostility  towards  us  that  we  had  the  greatest 
difficulty  in  getting  any  porters  to  carry  our  loads.     Part  of 

*  I  I^elieve  to  these  districts  the  South  Africa  Company  have  now  added  the  Mpozoni  district  and  the 
Luang wa  districts.     The  capital  of  the  latter  is  Fort  Jameson. 

'  Nyaserera  though  he  ruled  Yao  and  identified  himself  much  with  the  Vao  cause,  was  in  reality 
a  MIolo  from  the  countries  west  of  Lake  Chilwa.  The  A-lolo  are  closely  related  to  the  Makua  and 
speak  nearly  the  same  language. 


A   SIKH   SOLDIER    IN    THE 

B.C.A.    UNIFORM 
(black,  whitk,  yellow,  red) 


A  SIKH    SOLDIER   IN 
FIGHTING    KIT 


I20 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


the  way  we  had  to  travel  through  Nyaserera's  country,  and  between  bands  of 
sullen-looking  warriors  on  either  side  of  the  narrow  path.    They  would  probably 
have  attacked  us  but  that  an  escort  of  Sikhs  had  come  out  to  meet  us  from 
Fort  Lister. 

At  this  place  I  held  meetings  with  many  chiefs,  and 
endeavoured  to  detach  from  Nyaserera  his  relations  and 
allies ;  and  this  diplomacy  proved  so  far  successful  that 
when  later  on  Lieut.  Edwards  arrived  from  Fort  Johnston 
he  had  only  Nyaserera  to  fight,  and  subdued  him  after  a 
brief  campaign. 

Later  in  the  year  further  troubles  broke  out  in  the 
Mlanje  district,  with  the  chief  Mkanda,  whose  subjects 
had  been  concerned  in  recent  road  robberies,  and  who  was 
continually  kidnapping  women  for  the  slave  trade.  I  took 
advantage  of  the  arrival  of  the  second  detachment  of 
ICO  Sikhs  to  bring  Mkanda  to  his  senses,  but  I  thought 
at  first  it  would  be  sufficient  for  him  to  be  made  aware 
that  the  Sikhs  were  encamped  in  the  plain  on  their  way 
to  Fort  Lister,  while  the  collector  of  the  Mlanje  district 
(Mr.  Bell)  visited  Mkanda  in  the  mountains  with  a  small 
escort  and  delivered  an  ultimatum,  to  which  I  believed 
Mkanda  would  submit.  Mkanda,  however,  was  very  in- 
solent, and  his  men  commenced  attacking  Mr.  Bell's  escort. 
To  protect  themselves  in  retreating  the  escort  set  fire  to 
some  houses  and  loose  stacks  of  grass  for  thatching,  and 
succeeded  in  reaching  the  main  force  encamped  in  the 
plain.  They  then  com- 
municated with  Captain 
Johnson  at  Fort  Lister, 
and  awaited  instructions  as  to  further  pro- 
cedure. Mkanda  took  advantage  of  this  tem- 
porary inaction  to  attack  the  Scotch  Mission 
station  on  the  borders  of  his  territory.  The 
missionaries  took  to  flight  and  Mkanda's  men 
gutted  and  burnt  most  of  the  houses,  and 
succeeded  in  carrying  off  several  guns  and  a 
quantity  of  ammunition.  Fortunately  the  up- 
rising spread  no  farther,  and  the  other  Yao 
chiefs  did  not  join  in,  though  Matipwiri  sent 
out  skirmishers  to  see  what  he  could  do  in  the 
way  of  highway  robbery. 

Mkanda's  men  also  intercepted  and  slew 
several  Atonga  labourers  on  their  way  to  a 
European  plantation,  but  after  several  days' 
hard  fighting  among  the  crags  and  precipices 
of  Mlanje,  Captain  Johnson  succeeded  in 
capturing  all  Mkanda's  positions,  and  Mkanda 
fled. 

His  near  relation  Kada,  who  had  remained  on  our  side  during  this  struggle, 
succeeded  him  in  the  chieftainship.  Most  of  his  people  returned  when  peace 
was  made,  and  were  allowed  to  settle  in  the  plains  instead  of  amongst  the 


A  SIKH   SOLDIER   IN 
FIGHTING    KIT 


SIKH   SOLDIER   IN    UNDRESS 


FOUNDING   THE    PROTECTORATE  121 

mountains.  Mkanda  himself  eventually  made  terms  with  us  and  returned  to 
his  country.  So  did  Nyaserera,  who,  strange  to  say,  is  now  one  of  our  greatest 
friends. 

It  was  perhaps  just  as  well  that  this  outbreak  occurred  when  it  did,  as 
it  prevented  Mkanda  attacking  us  when  all  our  forces  were  subsequently 
engaged  in  the  Makanjira  expedition.  For  this  expedition  I  had  been 
continually  preparing  since  the  death  of  Captain  Maguire.  I  had  succeeded 
in  getting  the  gunboats  placed  on  Lake  Nyasa  and  the  Upper  Shire.  These 
vessels  were  now  completed,  and  in  the  summer  of  1893  Admiral  Bedford,^ 
Commander-in-chief  on  the  Cape  Station,  had  paid  me  a  visit  at  Zomba, 
and  had  proceeded  with  me  to  Lake  Nyasa  to  witness  the  launching  of 
the  two  gunboats  and  to  inspect  the  already  completed  vessel  for  the  Upper 
Shire. 

I    had   discussed    the   need    for   this   expedition    with    Mr.   Rhodes    when 


COLLECTOR  S   HOUSE   AT    FORT    LISTER 

visiting  Capetown,  and  he  had  agreed  in  addition  to  the  ordinary  subsidies 
of  the  Company  to  find  ;£  10,000  ^  for  increasing  the  police  force  in  order  to 
grapple  with  Makanjira  and  subdue  him.  This  aid  had  enabled  us  to  obtain 
an  additional  100  Sikhs  from  India,  who  came  out  under  the  command 
of  Lieut.  W.  H.  Manning.^  It  was  high  time  we  moved  because  our  faithful 
ally  Jumbe  was  almost  at  his  last  gasp.  A  certain  Yao  headman  of  Jumbe's 
named  Chiwaura  had  been  encouraged  by  Makanjira  to  rebel,  and  with 
the  assistance  of  Makanjira's  men  had  defeated  Jumbe  and  forced  him 
to  retire  to  his  capital.  Chiwaura  had  built  a  very  strong  town  about  five 
miles  inland  from  Kotakota,  with  high  loopholed  walls  of  red  clay,  and  an 
inner  citadel  surrounded  by  trees  of  great  girth.  Except  on  one  side 
Chiwaura's  town  was  surrounded  by  an  impassable  marsh,  a  swamp  which  it 
was  almost  impossible  to  cross. 

Accordingly  we  decided  first  of  all  to  relieve  Jumbe  before  proceeding 
against  Makanjira  directly.  The  African  Lakes  Company's  boats  Domira 
and    Ilala  were   chartered   to   convey   the  troops,  while  some  of  the  oflScers 

*  Now  Sir  Frederick  Bedford,  k.c.b. 

'  Of  which  sum  over  ;f  4,000  were  spent  and  the  balance  returned  to  Mr.   Rhodes. 

'  Now  Captain  Manning  and  second  in  command  of  the  B.  C.  A.  forces. 


122  BRITISH    CENTRAL    AFRICA 

and  myself  travelled  on  the  gunboats  which  were  under  the  direction  of 
Commander  Robertson,  R.N.  The  officers  consisted  of  Captain  Johnson, 
Lieut.  Edwards,  Dr.  Watson,  and  a  volunteer  in  the  person  of  Mr.  Glave, 
who  had  come  out  to  Central  Africa  to  study  these  countries  on  behalf  of 
the  Century,  an   American   magazine.^     Mr.  .Alfred  Sharpe  also  accompanied 

the  expedition. 

Our  terms  were  rejected  by  Chiwaura  who  felt 
illimitable  confidence  in  his  clay  walls,  not  realising 
that  his  town  was  absolutely  at  the  mercy  of  a 
bombardment.  It  lay  in  a  marshy  plain  within  700 
yards  of  the  precipitous  clififs  of  a  little  plateau.  The 
approach  to  this  plateau  was  not  defended  by 
Chiwaura,  though  he  might  have  made  it  very 
difficult  for  our  forces  to  get  there  except  with 
great  loss  of  men  ;  but  without  other  difficulties 
than  those  attending  transport  on  men's  heads,  we 
succeeded  in  planting  our  7-pounder  guns  on  the 
edge  of  the  aforementioned  cliffs.  From  this  position 
we  shelled  Chiwaura,  and  the  main  town  was  soon 
in  flames.  The  people  retired  to  the  inner  citadel, 
which  was  not  in  the  same  way  destructible,  since  the 
CAPT.  vv.  H.  MANNING  ^j^^jj^  ^^^^.^^  harmlessly  in  the  adjoining  forest.     The 

enemy  after  a  while  called  for  a  truce,  but  more 
Africano  employed  this  interval  in  the  hostilities  to  strengthen  his  defences, 
and  when  he  was  ready  to  begin  again  he  announced  the  fact  by  firing  on 
our  soldiers  when  they  approached  the  walls  under  cover  of  the  truce.  In 
fact  in  African  warfare  the  hoisting  of  a  white  flag  really  means,  "  I  want  a 
breathing  spell,"  and  when  both  sides  are  rested  they  go  on  again  without 
troubling  themselves  to  announce  the  cessation  of  the  truce. 

Jumbe  had  put  4,000  men  under  arms  and  had  accompanied  us  to  the 
scene  of  the  fight,  where  he  remained  the  whole  of  the  time  with  his  head 
wives.  Jumbe  though  old  and  feeble  was  not  lacking  in  bravery,  and  would 
willingly  have  risked  his  life  against  Chiwaura  had  I  not  held  him  back, 
but  Jumbe's  commander  was  by  no  means  a  rash  man.  He  was  gaudily 
dressed  in  scarlet  cloth  and  had  innumerable  charms  hung  about  him  to 
dispel  ill-luck,  but  he  was  very  much  afraid  of  coming  to  close  quarters 
with  the  enemy.  During  the  truce  we  would  watch  with  amusement  this 
great  mass  of  several  thousand  men  surge  across  the  quarter  of  a  mile  of 
plain  which  lay  between  us  and  Chiwaura's  town,  but  as  soon  as  a  gun  was 
discharged  from  the  ramparts  by  the  enemy,  Jumbe's  commander  would  shout 
"  Tamanga  !  tamanga  !  "  (Run  !  run  !),  and  the  whole  four  thousand  would  surge 
back  to  the  base  of  the  cliffs.  At  last  the  afternoon  was  drawing  towards 
evening,  and  the  enemy  showed  no  disposition  to  yield.  Jumbe's  people 
were  beginning  to  doubt  whether  the  white  man  was  equal  to  taking  such  a 
place  as  Chiwaura's.  It  was  necessary  to  show  them  that  not  only  could  we 
set  a  place  on  fire  at  a  distance  of  half  a  mile  through  our  shells,  but  if 
incumbent   on    us   we   could    come    to   close    quarters    and    take   a   town    by 

^  Mr.  Glave  wa.s  an  Englishman  who  had  served  with  Stanley  on  the  Congo.  He  subsequently 
journeyed  through  British  Central  Africa  to  the  Congo  Free  State,  thence  down  the  Congo  to  the 
vicinity  of  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  where  he  unfortunately  died  of  fever  Ijefore  he  proceeded  on  board  the 
ocean-going  steamer. 


FOUNDING   THE    PROTECTORATE 


123 


assault,  even  at  the  risk  of  losing  lives  in  so  doing.  Accordingly  Captain 
Johnson  gave  orders  for  a  general  assault,  and  with  about  seventy  Sikhs 
and  thirty  Makua  dashed  across  the  plain  through  the  ruined  precincts  of 
the  outer  town  and  up  to  the  high  wall  of  the  inner  citadel,  over  which  he 
and  the  other  officers  and  the  Sikhs  swarmed  and  scrambled.     The  first  Sikh 


FHE    RAPHIA    PALM    MARSH    BEHIND   CHI^VAURA^ 


who  succeeded  in  climbing  to  the  top  of  the  wall,  which  was  about  eight 
feet  high,  and  began  to  haul  up  his  comrades,  was  shot  dead.  Otherwise 
there  were  no  casualties  on  our  part  but  severe  wounds.  Once  the  troops  had 
got  on  the  top  of  this  high  wall  of  the  citadel  the  enemy  were  completely 
at  their  mercy  and  huddled  together  in  a  seething  mass  below.  Appalled  at 
the  idea  of  the  slaughter  that  must  ensue  from  continual  firing,  Captain 
Johnson  gave  the  order  "  cease  firing."     This  leniency  on  his  part  was  taken 


124  BRITISH    CENTRAL    AFRICA 

by  the  enemy  for  sudden  fear,  and  a  furious  fusillade  was  opened  on  our  men 
by  which  several  more  were  wounded.  Then  with  or  without  order  our  guns 
went  off,  and  numbers  of  the  enemy  were  shot  down.  The  bulk  of  them,, 
however,  including  Chiwaura,  scrambled  over  the  further  wall  and  dropped 
into  the  marsh  below,  where  a  good  many  of  them  were  drowned.  Chiwaura 
himself  was  shot  as  he  was  running  away,  and  fell  dead  into  the  marsh.  The 
citadel  was  then  entered  by  our  men,  and  hundreds  of  women  were  found 
cooped  up  in  the  houses,  many  of  them  in  slave  sticks.  They  were  set  free 
and  directed  to  proceed  to  Kotakota,  where  many  of  them  had  their  homes.^ 
That  same  night  our  forces  returned  to  Kotakota.  The  next  two  days  were 
spent  in  levelling  the  walls  of  Chiwaura  s  town. 

We  then  decided  to  proceed  down  the  south-west  shore  of  the  lake,  part  of 
us  going  overland  and  the  remainder  on  the  gunboats  and  steamers  to  the  Rifu 
peninsula,  which  was  strongly  held  by  Makanjira,  whose  relation  Kuluunda. 
a  famous  woman  chief  amongst  the  Yao,  had  displaced  Kazembe,  our  ally  and 
her  nephew.  Whilst  attacking  Kazembe's  old  town  (Kazembe  himself  had 
joined  us  with  a  few  men  remaining  faithful  to  him)  we  received  information 
that  a  dau  had  just  crossed  from  Makanjira's  with  seventy  fighting  men 
on  board,  and  a  lai^e  quantity  of  gunpowder,  and  would  probably  land  in 
"  Leopard  Bay."  H.M.S.  Pioneer  was  dispatched  thither  under  the  command 
of  Lieut.  Villiers,  R.N.  Although  the  Pioneer  did  not  succeed  in  preventing 
the  dau  from  reaching  the  shore  she  fired  into  her  and  disabled  her  so  that  she 
stranded  on  the  rocks.  But  Makanjira's  men  succeeded  in  escaping  to  the  hill 
overlooking  Leopard  Bay  where  they  were  joined  by  the  defeated  enemy 
who  had  been  driven  out  of  Kazembe's  town.  The  situation  was  further 
complicated  by  the  arrival  of  a  large  Arab  slave-trading  caravan,  commanded 
by  four  or  five  white  Arabs  and  containing  several  hundred  slaves.  The  Arabs 
joined  their  forces  to  those  of  Kuluunda  and  Makanjira,  and  for  several  days 
we  besieged  these  people  by  land  and  water  round  the  lofty  hill  which  overlooks 
Leopard  Bay.  Eventually  the  Arabs  of  the  slave  caravan,  Kuluunda,  and  most 
of  her  followers  were  captured  or  surrendered;  but  meantime  a  force  of  Jumbe's 
men  was  left  to  continue  the  siege  of  the  hill  while  our  Sikhs,  Makua,  and  300 
of  Jumbe's  soldiers,  together  with  Jumbe  himself  and  all  the  officers,  were 
conveyed  across  the  lake  to  Makanjira  s  main  town.  We  had  made  the  journey 
by  way  of  Monkey  Bay  so  as  to  have  a  short  rest  before  embarking  on  the 
most  critical  part  of  ^ our  programme.  We  had  timed  ourselves  to  arrive  at 
Makanjira's  town  at  dawn.  The  enemy  were  taken  somewhat  by^surprise,  and 
we  succeeded  in  effecting  a  landing  on  the  sandy  promontory  to  the  south 
of  Makanjira's  huge  straggling  metropolis  of  many  thousand  huts  and  houses 
without  meeting  with  any  serious  resistance.  This  promontory  was  separated 
from  the  town  by  a  strip  of  low-lying  swampy  country.  After  entrenching 
ourselves  in  a  camp  the  bulk  of  our  forces  started  with  Captain  Johnson, 
Lieut.  Edwards,  and  Mr.  Glave  to  try  conclusions  with  Makanjira's  forces, 
while  the  town  was  shelled  over  their  heads  by  Mr.  Sharpe  from  the  camp 
and  from  the  two  gunboats  which  steamed  along  the  shore.     The  Pioneer  found 

^  Not  a  few  of  these  poor  women  were  far  gone  with  child,  and  the  terror  of  the  bombardment 
so  upset  them  that  on  the  way  to  Kotakota  woman  after  woman  sat  down  by  the  way  and  gave  birth  to  a 
child,  which  she  straightway  abandoned  in  her  panic  fear  of  Chiwaura's  pursuit.  It  was  a  quaint  though 
touching  sight  to  see  the  Sikh  soldiers  pravely  gathering  up  the  new-bom  babes  and  carrying  them  with 
their  many  other  burdens  of  rifle  and  kit  into  Kotakota,  where  they  were  afterwards  impartially  distributed 
among  the  various  women  who  claimed  to  be  recently  parturient.  Never  in  any  historical  tale  or 
Gilbertian  burlesque  were  l)abies  so  hopelessly  *'  mixed." 


FOUNDING   THE    PROTECTORATE 


125 


one  of  Makanjira's  daus  drawn  up  in  a  narrow  creek  near  to  or  at  the  place 
where  Captain  Maguire  had  been  killed.  In  spite  of  a  heavy  fire  from  the 
enemy  this  dau  was  attached  by  a  hawser  to  the  gunboat,^  and  towed  out  into 
the  lake.2 

After  about  five  hours'  fighting  Makanjira's  forces  gave  up  the  struggle  and 
disappeared.  We  then  had  at  our  mercy  his  many  villages.  Several  times  he 
asked  for  terms  of  peace,  but  apparently,  without  any  idea  but  to  gain  time. 
The  place  where  Captain   Maguire  had  been  killed  and  Boyce  and  McEwan 


ON   THE   BEACH    AT   MONKEY   BAY 


massacred  was  destroyed,  with  several  other  villages  and  towns  in  Makanjira's 
country.  These  extreme  measures  were  only  resorted  to,  however,  after 
Makanjira  had  refused  our  terms  of  peace. 

Kuluunda  was  sent  as  an  exile  to  Port  Herald  on  the  Shire.^ 
As  Makanjira  would  not  make  peace  with  us  I  had  now  to  consider  what 
steps  should  be  taken  to  occupy  his  country.  Some  of  my  staff  were  of  opinion 
that  it  would  be  better  after  destroying  the  towns  to  remove  our  forces,  as  we 
could  always  return  on  other  occasions  and  prevent  any  attempt  on  the  part 
of  Makanjira  to  rebuild;  but  my  own  views  were  different.     It  seemed  to  me 

*  This  deed  was  accomplished  by  Hajji  Askar,   a  l*ersian,   who  was  an  interpreter  on  board  the 
Pioneer. 

'  It  now  plies  to  and  fro  across  the  lake  under  the  British  flag  conveying  natives  over  the  Government 
ferry. 

*  In  1896  she  was  allowed  to  return  to  her  country  on  the  promise  of  good  behaviour. 


126 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


that  the  expeditions  against  Makanjira  would  have  to  be  annual  unless  we 
permanently  occupied  his  country.  I  therefore  decided  to  leave  Major  Edwards 
behind  with  a  large  force  of  Sikhs  to  build  a  strong  fort  near  the  place  where 
Captain  Maguire  had  been  killed.     This  fort  was  then  named  "  Fort  Maguire." 

Having  chosen  the  site  and  seen  the  British  flag  hoisted  with  great  ceremony 
I  returned  to  Zomba  and  spent  the  winter  in  attending  to  the  civil  organisation 
of  the  Protectorate.  At  the  beginning  of  1894  Makanjira  attacked  Fort 
Maguire  and  the  surrounding  villages  with  a  large  force  of  men,  but  was 
defeated  with  great  loss  by  Captain  Edwards,  who  soon  after  succeeded 
Captain  Johnson  as  the  senior  officer  in  command  of  the  B.C.A.  forces. 


ONK   OF   MAKANJIRA  S   CAPTURED   DAUS  AT   MONKEY    BAY 

Early  in  this  year  Mr.  Harrhy,  who  had  been  lent  by  the  Postmaster-General 
of  Cape  Colony  (Mr.  French)  for  a  year  to  organise  our  Postal  Service,  returned 
to  Cape  Town,  and  his  place  was  taken  by  Mr.  J.  E.  McMaster  (now  Vice- 
Consul  at  Chinde),  who  has  been  a  most  efficient  Postmaster-General. 

\  In   April,   1894,   I    returned   to    England   for  a  much-needed   holiday,  Mr. 

^  Sharpe  conducting  the  administration  of  the  country  during  my  absence. 
Besides  reasons  of  health  which  necessitated  this  return,  the  time  had  come 
when  the  development  of  the  Protectorate  required  its  administration  to  be 
placed  on  a  thoroughly  sound  basis,  and  the  period  during  which  the  South 
Africa  Company  had  agreed  to  contribute  towards  the  cost  of  its  administration 
being  near  expiration  it  would  be  necessary  for  Her  Majesty's  Government 
to  consider  the  financial  provision  which  was  needed  for  the  future  maintenance 


o 

X 
X 


FOUNDING   THE    PROTECTORATE  129 

of  the  Protectorate.  The  summer  and  autumn  of  1894  were  spent  in  making 
these  arrangements,  the  results  of  which  were  that  the  Civil  Service  was  hence- 
forth efficiently  organised,  and  the  South  Africa  Company's  subsidies  were 
devoted  to  the  administration  of  the  Company's  own  territory;  the  direct 
administration  of  which  was  taken  over  from  me  by  the  Company  in  1895. 
The  Imperial  Government  repaid  to  the  South  Africa  Company  and  to  Mr. 
Rhodes  a  proportion  of  the  sums  spent  on  the  defence  and  development  of  the 
Protectorate. 

The  Civil  Service  of  the  Protectorate  and  the  Postal  Service  were  put  on  a 
satisfactory  footing.  A  postage  stamp  ^  was  designed  and  issued.  Arrangements 
were  made  for  taking  over  the  lake  gunboats  from  the  Admiralty  and  working 
them  henceforth  by  the  Administration  of  the  Protectorate. 

Freed  from  all  future  anxieties  concerning  finance  I  started  for  India  to 


THE   BEACH    AT   MAKANJIRA's    (PRESENT   SITE  OK   FORT   MAGUIRE) 

settle   the   question   of  the    Indian   contingent   on   a   definite   basis  with   the 
Indian  authorities. 

A  very  satisfactory  arrangement  was   come   to,  lasting  six   years,    which      ^ 
permits  of  our  employing  as  many  as  200  Sikhs  from  the  Indian  Army  in 
British  Central  Africa. 

I  left  India  on  the  ist  of  April,  1895,  and  reached  Chinde  on  the  19th  of 
that  month,  and  Zomba  on  the  4th  of  May.  I  found  that  during  my  absence 
everything  had  proceeded  smoothly  until  the  early  spring  of  1895,  when  the 
Yao  chief  Kawinga,  whose  attitude  had  long  been  threatening,  had  attempted 
a  very  serious  attack  on  the  British  Protectorate.  He  had  felt  his  way  by  first 
raiding  the  villciges  of  a  chief  named  Malemia,  in  whose  territory  the  Church  of 

*  The  design  for  this  was  slightly  altered  of  late  and  differently  printed,  but  remains  practically  the 
same  as  that  devised  in  1 894.  It  consists  of  the  Coat  of  Arms  of  the  Protectorate  (which  is  on  the 
cover  of  this  book).  This  Coat  of  Arms  was  designed  by  me,  with  the  assistance  and  advice  of  Sir  Albert 
Woods  It  may  be  described  as  a  shield  sable,  with  a  pile  or,  and  over  all  a  fimbriated  cross  argent,  bearing 
an  inescutcheon  gules  on  which  is  imprinted  the  Royal  Arms  in  or.  The  shield  is  poised  on  an  outspread 
map  of  Africa  ;  supporters,  two  negroes,  one  carrying  a  pick  and  the  other  a  shovel ;  crest,  a  coffee-tree  in 
full  bearing  ;  motto,  **  Light  in  darkness."  Put  in  plain  language  the  shield  is  intended  to  illustrate  our 
three  colours,  black,  yellow,  and  white,  with  a  touch  of  the  English  red.  Into  the  sable  mass  of  Africa 
I  have  driven  a  pile  (wedge)  of  Indian  yellow.  Over  all  is  the  white  cross,  representing  in  its  best 
significations  the  all-embracing  white  man.  The  inescutcheon  of  English  red  shows  the  Arms  of  the 
protecting  Power.     The  motto,  *'  Light  in  darkness,"  was  the  suggestion  of  the  late  Sir  Percy  Anderson. 


I30  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

Scotland  Mission  was  established.  Mr.  Sharpe  sent  a  small  force  of  Sikhs  and 
Atonga  under  Corporal  William  Fletcher,  and  an  Atonga  sergeant  named 
Bandawe,  to  defend  Malemia's  principal  village  where  the  Scotch  missionaries 
were. 

This  expedition,  which  only  consisted  of  six  Sikhs  and  a  few  Atonga, 
built  a  "boma"^  to  protect  themselves  against  any  sudden  attack  from 
Kawinga.  It  was  fortunate  they  did  so,  because  a  day  or  two  afterwards  he 
descended  on  them  with  2,000  men,  many  of  them  recruited  from  amongst  the 
warlike  Anguru  of  the  countries  east  of  Lake  Chilwa.  It  appears  that  Kawinga, 
in  alliance  with  Zarafi  and  Matipwiri,  had  really  resolved  on  attempting 
to  drive  the  British  out  of  the  Shire  Highlands.  An  attack  was  first  to 
be  made  on  the  unarmed  Mission  stations  at  Domasi  Their  men,  whetted 
with  success,  would  then  feel  the  necessary  courage  to  attack  the  Residency  at 
Zomba.  Having  captured  this  and  possibly  succeeded  in  murdering  the  Com- 
missioner, the  forces  of  Zarafi  and  Kawinga  would  advance  on  Blantyre,  whilst 


THREK   OF   MAKANJIKA'S   CAPTURED    DAUS  (FORT   MACUIRE) 

Matipwiri  sweeping  through  the  Mlanje  district,  would  unite  his  forces  to  theirs, 
and  the  Yao  then  counted  on  taking  possession  of  the  gunboats  at  Chiromo. 
Zarafi  had  sent  his  son  and  some  of  his  fighting  men  to  assist  in  the  preliminary 
attack  on  Domasi. 

War  with  Kawinga  was  always  felt,  since  our  abortive  attack  on  his 
positions  in  1 89 1,  to  be  a  serious  affair  not  lightly  to  be  encountered.  We  had 
therefore  put  up  with  a  great  deal  of  robberies,  outrages  and  slave  kidnapping 
on  the  part  of  Kawinga  without  renewing  the  war  with  him  till  we  had  larger 
forces  at  our  disposal.  Mr.  Sharpe  therefore  at  first  intended  to  do  no  more 
than  guard  the  approaches  to  the  main  station  at  Domasi,-  though  he  made 
preparations  for  assembling  as  large  a  force  of  Sikhs  and  Atonga  as  were 
available. 

Kawinga's  aggressive  action  however  got  no  farther  than  "  Fletcher's 
boma.'*     This  trumpery  little   fort  was  so  splendidly  defended  by  the  Sikhs 

*  Boma  is  a  Swahili  word  meaning  *' a  fence,"  "a  stockade."  It  is  a  term  which  has  come  into 
general  use  in  British  Central  Africa,  and  is  often  applied  to  Government  stations,  most  of  which  were  at 
first  [)rovided  with  some  such  defence. 

'-^  Domasi  station  was  defended  by  Mr.  S.  Hewitt-Fletcher,  2n(l  Accountant  to  the  British  Central 
Africa  Administration.  Some  confusion  arose  between  the  two  Fletchers  in  the  suljsequent  newspajXT 
descriptions. 


FOUNDING   THE    PROTECTORATE 


131 


and  the  Atonga  that  the  Yao  again  and  again  recoiled  before  the  well-directed 
rifle  fire.  At  last  the  ammunition  on  the  side  of  the  British  was  giving  out» 
and  in  spite  of  the  heavy  losses  amounting  to  over  a  hundred  men  on  the  part 
of  the  enemy  it  looked  as  though  the  defence  must  come  to  an  end.  At 
this  juncture  a  reinforcement  of  Atonga  was  seen  to  be  arriving,  brought  up 
by  two  planters,  Messrs.  Hynde  and  Starke.  Bandawe  proposed  to  Fletcher 
that  they  should  charge  the  demoralised  enemy  who  were  already  aware  of 
the  approach  of  reinforcements.  Accordingly  the  defenders  sallied  out  from 
the  fort  firing  their  last  volleys.  The  Yao  broke  and  fled,  and  were  pursued 
for  miles  by  the  Sikhs  and  Atonga.  Many  prisoners  were  captured  by 
Malemia's  men,  who  had  hitherto  decidedly  "sat  on  the  fence,"  apparently 
ready,  had  Kawinga  prevailed,  to  side  with  the  conqueror  against  the  British. 


A   RURAL   POST  OFFICE,    BRITISH   CENTRAL   AFRICA 


Among  the  prisoners  taken  was  a  son  of  Zarafi,  whom  Malemia  caused  to 
be  beheaded. 

Kawinga  retired  to  his  mountain  of  Chikala.  It  seemed  however  to  Mr. 
Sharpe  that  whilst  the  army  remained  demoralised  was  the  time  to  definitely 
bring  this  struggle  with  Kawinga  to  a  close.  At  this  time  his  reinforcements  of 
Sikhs  had  arrived  from  Fort  Johnston  under  the  command  of  Lieut.  Hamilton 
and  Captain  W.  H.  Manning. 

Kawinga's  stronghold  was  approached  by  a  new  route  and  the  enemy 
were  taken  by  surprise.  They  defended  the  fords  of  the  rivers  with  some 
pertinacity,  and  a  few  casualties  took  place  amongst  our  native  soldiers  and 
allies.      But  while  the  main  approach   to  the  town  was  still   being  contested 


132 


BRITISH    CENTRAL    AFRICA 


Lieut.  Hamilton  had  entered  the  place  with  his  Sikhs  from  another  quarter  and 
the  enemy  broke  and  fled.^ 

With  the  subdual  of  Kawinga  the  road  robberies,  except  in  the  Mlanje 
district,  came  to  an  end  ;  a  sense  of  security  spread  over  the  southern  portion 
of  the  Protectorate  which  was  quite  pleasantly  unfamiliar.     It  was  felt  that  in  a 

very  trying  crisis  Mr.  Sharpe 
had  acted  with  decision  and 
promptitude  and  without  flurry, 
and  many  of  the  European 
settlers  expressed  the  sense  of 
obligation  which  they  felt  to- 
wards Mr.  Sharpe. 

In  other  respects  the  record 
of  the  Protectorate  during  my 
absence  in  England  had  been 
singularly  peaceful.  By  negotia- 
tions which  Mr.  Sharpe  had 
commissioned  Major  Edwards 
to  undertake,  a  civil  war  that 
had  long  raged  between  the 
Angoni  chiefs  Chikusi  and 
Chifisi  was  brought  to  a  close.'^ 
Mr.  Sharpe  returned  to 
England  on  leave  of  absence, 
and  Major  Edwards  and  myself 
began  to  make  steady  prepara- 
tions for  the  inevitable  cam- 
paign against  Zarafi,  a  campaign 
rendered  absolutely  necessar>' 
because  this  chief  finding  that 
he  was  not  visited  with  war 
after  his  co-operation  in  the 
Kawinga  raids,  began  to  attack 
Fort  Johnston.  However,  our 
plans  in  regard  to  Zarafi  were 
temporarily  postponed  because 
Matipwiri  attacked  one  of  our 
hill  patrols  in  the  Mlanje  dis- 
trict, and  it  was  obvious  that  this  chief  would  renew  his  raids  in  that  direction 
directly  our  forces  were  engaged  with  Zarafi. 

I  was  at  Chiromo  when  the  news  came  of  Matipwiri's  hostility.     I  therefore 

*  Kawinga  has  subsequently  made  peace  with  us,  and  though  not  allowed  to  return  to  Chikala  he  is 
stationed  on  British  territory.  Chikala  Mountain  is  now  guarded  by  a  fort.  As  an  instance  of  the  rapid 
way  in  which  the  negro  accepts  the  results  of  an  appeal  to  force,  and  his  want  of  rancour,  I  may  state 
these  facts  :  that  when  in  1896  we  proceeded  against  Zarafi  Kawinga  did  his  very  best  to  help  us,  givinp 
as  his  reason  for  so  doing  **  that  he  had  been  well  beaten  by  the  British  ;  it  was  now  time  that  Zarafi  had 
a  licking."  Kawinga*s  son  provided  us  with  guides  who  led  us  along  the  best  route  to  Zarafi's  country, 
and  Kawinga  sent  with  me  a  special  bodyguard  of  Yao  who  were  charged  to  look  after  my  personal 
safety,  and  who  (pertainly  did  their  best  in  this  respect. 

*  In  this  war  Chikusi,  who  was  a  very  ill-conditioned  young  fellow,  had  been  the  aggressor,  and  the 
way  in  which  he  was  almost  compelled  to  make  peace  with  Chifisi  left  a  certain  amount  of  rancour  in 
his  mind  against  the  British,  which  ill-feeling  finally  culminated  in  his  attacking  the  British  Protectorate 
in  the  autumn  of  1896,  in  his  defeat,  and  death.  In  our  counter  attack  on  Chikusi  we  had  the  entire 
support  of  Chifisi  and  his  men. 


WATCH  TOWER  AT   FORT  JOHNSTON 

ERECTED   BY  CAPTAIN   C.   E.   JOHNSON   TO  WATCH   ZARAFI, 


FOUNDING   THE    PROTECTORATE 


133 


A   SIKH   SERGEANT-MAJOR  OF  THE    BRITISH   CENTRAL  AFRICA   CONTINGENT 


Started  for  Mlanje  where  I  arranged  to  rendezvous  with  Major  Edwards. 
We  made  very  careful  preparations  and  suddenly  fell  on  Matipwiri,  travelling 
all  night  over  the  distance  which  separated  his  principal  town  from  Fort 
Lister.  His  men  made  but  a  feeble  stand  and  Matipwiri  and  his  brother 
Kumtiramanja  ^  fled  to  Tundu  hill,  where  they  made  their  last  stand.  From 
this  position  they  were  driven  off  by  Captain  the  Hon.  W.  E.  Cavendish 
and  Lieut.  Coape-Smith,  and  large  supplies  of  war  material  were  abandoned 

'  The  more  powerful  chief  of  the  two. 


134 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


in  their  flight  and  captured  by  Captain  Cavendish.  Subsequently  both  Matip- 
wiri  and  Kumtiramanja  were  taken  prisoners  by  Lieut.  Coape-Smith.  A  fort 
was  built  in  their  country  and  Matipwiri's  former  subjects  settled  down  verv- 
contentedly  under  our  rule,  and  the  country  has  since  been  perfectly  peaceful. 
This  settlement  was  rendered  all  the  easier  because  Matipwiri,  like  most  of  the 
Yao  chiefs,  was  a  usurper,  and  not  a  native  of  the  district  in  which  he  had 
established  himself  Many  of  his  subjects  belonged  to  the  A-lolo  stock  and 
spoke  a  language  akin  to  Makua. 

From  the  hills  in  Matipwiri's  country  we  were  able  to  look  out  eastwards 

over  a  most  wonderful  country 
hitherto  untraversed  by  any  white 
man,  but  within  the  Portuguese 
Sphere  of  Influence.  We  could 
see  splendid  ranges  of  mountains 
almost  as  high  as  Mlanje — that 
is  to  say,  reaching  in  parts  to  an 
altitude  of  8,000  feet.  When  the 
interior  of  Portuguese  East  Africa 
is  opened  up  this  A-lolo  country 
should  become  a  great  resort  of 
European  planters,  as  it  is  very 
fertile  and  admirably  well  watered. 
In  the  Matipwiri  expedition 
we  had  for  the  first  time  tried 
our  new  military  organisation, 
especially  in  regard  to  the  Native 
levies,  and  we  were  greatly  en- 
couraged by  the  results  and 
proceeded  with  some  confidence 
on  the  expedition  against  Zarafi, 
This  expedition  was  brought  to  a 
completely  successful  result  after 
a  week's  fighting  in  which  we  lost 
our  best  Sikh  non-commissioned 
officer.  The  heights  of  Mangoche 
Mountain  were  successfully  taken 
by  storm,  the  lost  7  -  pounder 
cannon  was  recovered,  and  Zarafi 
fled  far  .to  the  eastward  into 
Portuguese  East  Africa,  where  of  course  we  were  unable  to  follow  him.  A 
fort  was  planned  on  the  site  of  Zarafi's  town,  and  was  subsequently  built 
by  Lieut.  Alston.  We  then  proceeded  to  try  conclusions  with  Mponda, 
who  after  several  years  of  doubting  had  at  last  decided  to  renew  his  struggle 
with  us  and  had  retired  to  a  strong  place,  Mauni,  in  the  mountains  of  the 
Cape  Maclear  peninsula.  Major  Edwards  started  with  a  strong  force  for  Mauni, 
but  Mponda  at  the  last  moment  deemed  discretion  to  be  the  better  part  of 
valour,  and,  eluding  the  force  sent  against  him,  came  down  in  a  canoe  to 
Fort  Johnston  and  surrendered  to  me.  As  much  bloodshed  was  saved  by 
this  act  of  Mponda's  I  dealt  as  leniently  with  him  as  possible,  and  secured 
to  him  his  personal  property,  though  I  deemed  it  necessary  to  send  him 
away  from  his  country  for  a  time  as  his  presence  was  so  obnoxious  to  the  mass 


NATIVE   SOLDIERS,    BRITISH   CENTRAL   AFRICA 


FOUNDING   THE    PROTECTORATE 


135 


of  the  population  which  of  late  years  had  placed  themselves  under  the  British. 
Mponda,  like  most  of  the  other  chiefs  in  the  southern  part  of  the  Protectorate, 
was  of  Yao  origin,  and  the  bulk  of  his  subjects  were  A-nyanja. 

Major  Edwards  now  advanced  against  Makanjira  who  of  late  had  renewed 
his  raids  into  British  territory  and  had 
founded  a  new  capital  in  the  hills,  just 
over  the  British  side  of  the  border,  and 
about  ten  miles  from  the  south-east  coast 
of  Lake  Nyasa.  This  town  was  taken 
and  destroyed  by  Lieut.  Coape- Smith. 
Makanjira's  forces  were  completely  routed 
and  fled  in  disorder  into  Portuguese 
territory. 

On  my  return  to  Fort  Johnston  from 
Zarafi's  I  received  letters  from  Karonga 
at  the  north  end  of  Lake  Nyasa  and  from 
Mr.  Crawshay,  the  Vice-Consul  at  Deep 
Bay,  informing  me  that  the  situation  at 
the  north  end  of  the  lake  was  serious,  as 
Mlozi  and  the  Arabs  were  now  raiding  in 
all  directions  for  slaves,  and  openly  an- 
nounced their  intention  of  fighting  the 
British  as  soon  as  the  rainy  season  began. 
Mlozi  had  captured  and  severely  flogged 
a.  lay  missionary  named  Stevens ;  he  had 
even  threatened  the  Free  Church  Mission 
station  near  Fife  on  the  Nyasa-Tanganyika 
plateau,  and  Dr.  Cross,  a  medical  mission- 
ary, had  been  obliged  to  proceed  to  that 
place  to  bring  away  the  wife  of  the 
missionary  through  German  territory. 

Mlozi  had  amongst  other  things 
attacked  the  populous  villages  of  the 
Awa-wandia,  and  besides  slaughtering 
many  of  the  men  had  carried  off*  women 
and  children  to  his  stronghold.  He  had 
concluded  an  alliance  with  the  powerful 
Awemba  tribe  to  the  west,  and  it  was 
obvious  that  unless  we  moved  first  he 
would  soon  be  attacking  Karonga  with 
an  overwhelming  force.  I  may  state  here 
parenthetically  that  since  my  return  from 
England  I  had  in  July,  1895,  made  a 
special  journey  to  the  north  end  of  Lake 
Nyasa  to  see  Mlozi  and  persuade  him  to 
keep  the  peace  according  to  the  original 
treaty  concluded  by  him  in  1889;  but  on 

arriving  at  Karonga  Mlozi  had  flatly  refused  to  see  me,  and  had  even  written 
me  a  very  threatening  letter,  in  the  course  of  which  he  remarked,  "The 
British  have  closed  my  route  to  the  coast :  very  well,  I  will  close  their  road 
to  Tanganyika." 


AN    ATONGA  SOLDIER 


136 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


Tlu*  Ar.iljs  vvure  iimi  Mc  to  j^^o  to 
war  with  us  at  that  tinK\  nn<\  aisu  they 
wished  first  of  all  to  gather  in  their 
crops.      They  knew  besides   that   the 

Europeans  fought  at  a  disadvantage  in  the  rainy  season,  and  it  was  evident 
if  we  did  not  take  steps  to  reduce  the  Arab  power  before  the  end  of  December 
they  would  attack  us  in  January  with  many  chances  in  their  favour. 

Accordingly  with  some  reluctance  I  resolved  to  continue  our  campaigns 
on  Lake  Nyasa"  by  an  expedition  against  the  Arabs.  Our  little  force  had  by 
this  time  been  nicknamed  the  "ever  victorious  army."  We  had  now  400  men 
(100  Sikhs  and  300  natives)  on  whom  we  could  place  absolute  reliance,  and 
the  force  had  been  strengthened  by  the  advent  of  several  volunteer  officers. 
The  officers  on  the  staff  consisted  of  Major  C.  A.  Edwards  ;  Captain  F.  T. 
Stewart;^  Captain  the  Honble.  W.  E.  Cavendish;  Lieut.  H.  Coape- Smith; 
Lieut.  G.  de  Herries  Smith ;  and  Lieut.  Alston  \^  Dr.  Wordsworth  Poole  and 
Sergeant-Major  Devoy. 

It  was  essential  that  the  Arabs  should  be  taken  by  surprise ;  that  we  should 
fall  on  them  with  ail  our  available  force  and  surround  their  strongholds  before 
they  could  escape  to  the  interior,  for  they  might  prefer  to  run  away  instead  of 
fighting  out  the  struggle,  which  they  could  renew  at  a  more  convenient  season. 
Therefore,  our  most  important  problem  was  how  to  transport  400  men,  seven 
officers  and  the  necessary  munitions  of  war  in  one  trip.  The  gunboats  would 
only  carry  about  fifteen  men  each  and  a  similar  proportion  of  our  stores  ;  the 
African  Lakes  Company's  steamer  Domira  could  not  take  much  more  than 

^  Who  with  Captain  Cavendish  was  left  to  watch  Makanjira  and  2^rafi. 

'■^  The  Volunteers  were  Major  L.  Bradshaw  (of  the  35th  Sikhs),  Major  F.  C.  Trollope  (Grenadier 
Ciuards),  and  last,  but  not  least,  Mr.  Walter  Gordon  Cumming.  These  gentlemen  served  in  the  autumn 
campaign  of  1895  without  pay  and  at  their  own  expense.  Major  Trollope  and  Mr.  Gordon  Cummin^ 
were  visiting  the  country  for  the  purposes  of  sport.  Major  Bradshaw,  who  was  a  brother  officer  of 
Major  Edwards,  and  assisted  us  when  in  India  to  recruit  Sikhs,  was  very  anxious  to  study  the  question  of 
Indian  soldiers  fighting  in  Africa,  and  had  obtained  leave  of  absence  so  that  he  might  join  our  campaign. 


FOUNDING   THE    PROTECTORATE 


137 


100  men.  I  bethought  myself  of  the  German  steamer  the  Wtssmanny  which  was 
fortunately  at  that  moment  lying  off  Fort  Johnston.  I  had  an  interview  with 
her  Commander,  Captain  Berndt,  and  relying  on  him  as  a  man  of  honour, 
communicated  my  plans  to  him,  and  asked  whether  I  could  hire  the  German 
steamer  to  carry  them  out.  He  at  once  assented  and  proposed  terms  which 
were  generous  financially  as  they  provided  merely  for  the  working  expenses  of 
the  steamer.  I  may  say  here  that  my  plans  were  kept  absolutely  secret  by 
Captain  Berndt,  and  that  no  hint  reached  the  Arabs  as  to  our  intentions. 

Major  Edwards  and  I  made  a  hasty  journey  to  Zomba  for  final  preparations 
and  the  expedition  left  Fort  Johnston  on  the  24th  of  November,  1895.  On  the 
way  to  the  north  end  of  the  lake  Major  Edwards  fell  ill,  so  that  when  we  landed 
at  Karonga  I  was  temporarily  deprived  of  the  services  of  my  commander-in- 
chief,  who  for  a  few  days  was  obliged  to  lie  up.     But  his  plans  had  been  so  well 


DEEP    BAY    STATION 

laid  that  they  were  carried  out  without  a  hitch  by  Lieut.  Coape-Smith,  who 
succeeded  him  temporarily  in  the  command.  Major  Bradshaw  was  also  an 
invalid,  but  fortunately  both  he  and  Major  Edwards  recovered  in  time  to  take 
part  in  the  final  assault  on  Mlozi  s  stockade.  Our  plan  of  campaign  was  this  :^ 
Mlozi's  stockaded  town  was  situated  about  eleven  miles  inland  from  Karonga, 
the  station  of  the  African  Lakes  Company  on  the  shore  of  Lake  Nyasa.  About 
six  miles  inland  from  Karonga  were  the  stockades  of  Msalemu  and  Kopakopa 
which  guarded  the  ford  of  the  River  Rukuru.  Mlozi's  town  was  in  the  plain 
near  the  south  bank  of  the  River  Rukuru.  It  was  overlooked  by  a  ridge  of  hills 
to  the  south  which  ran  transversely  to  the  course  of  the  river.  The  Arab  road 
from  Kopakopa's  stockade  to  Mlozi's  ran  through  a  pass  in  these  hills,  and  this 
low  range  on  the  side  of  the  pass  nearest  the  river  terminated  in  a  rather  high 
house-shaped  hill  which  it  was  possible  to  climb  to  the  summit,  and  where  guns 
could  be  planted.     Our  idea  was  to  send  out  about  300  men  and  a  number  of 

'  In  drawing  up  this  plan  at  Zomba  Major  Edwards  and  I  were  greatly  helped  by  the  notes  and 
maps  of  Mlozi's  stockade  which  had  been  made  for  us  by  Dr.   Kerr  Cross  and  Major  Trollope. 


138  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

officers  under  the  command  of  Lieut.  Coape-Smith,  who  should  proceed  by 
a  circuitous  course  northwards  till  they  came  opposite  Mlozi's  town,  with  the 
River  Rukuru  running  in  between.  This  march  should  be  undertaken  at 
night  and  the  River  Rukuru  forded  in  the  darkness,  opposite  the  house-shaped 
hill,  which  eminence  was  to  be  seized  and  garri.soned  by  one  division  under 
Major  Trollope.  Lieut.  Coape-Smith  was  then  to  place  a  section  of  his  force 
under  Lieut.  Alston  to  guard  the  approach  to  the  River  Rukuru  from  Mlozi's 
town.  A  further  division  under  Mr.  Gordon  Gumming  was  to  pass  round  to 
the  back  of  Mlozi's  town  and  take  up  a  position  to  the  west  of  it.  Major 
Trollope's  force  by  occupying  the  house-shaped  hill  would  command  the  pass 
through  which  the  road  to  Kotakota  passed,  and  thus  be  able  to  cut  oflF  Mlozi's 
retreat  in  that  direction.  Mr.  Walter  Gordon  Cumming's  force  would  be  able 
to  check  his  flight  westward  and  Lieut.  Alston  prevent  him  from  crossing  the 


MLOZI,   CHIEF   OF   THE    NORTH    NYASA    ARABS 

River  Rukuru  to  the  Tanganyika  road.  Having  posted  these  three  divisions 
in  the  darkness  of  the  night  Lieut.  Coape  -  Smith  was  to  return  along  the 
banks  of  the  river  to  Kopakopa's,  and  meet  me  there  at  eight  o'clock  in  the 
morning ;  for  I  in  the  meantime  should  have  started  with  the  naval  division 
and  a  force  of  Sikhs  under  Lieut,  de  Herries  Smith  and  have  attacked,  and 
presumably  mastered  Kopakopa  and  Msalemu.  Lieut.  Coape-Smith  accordingly 
left  Karonga  at  eight  o'clock  at  night  on  the  ist  of  December,  and  although 
it  was  raining  cats  and  dogs  and  the  night  was  pitch  dark  he  carried  out 
the  whole  of  the  operations  entrusted  to  him  without  a  single  mistake  or 
deviation,  and  punctually  turned  up  at  Kopakopa  at  eight  o'clock  next 
morning.  I  left  at  five  o'clock  in  the  morning  of  the  2nd  of  December  with 
a  strong  force  of  artillery  under  Commander  Percy  Cullen,  R.N.R.  (the  senior 
naval  officer  on  Lake  Nyasa),  and  accompanied  by  Lieut.  Rhoades  and 
Phillips  (of  the  Lake  Nyasa  gunboats) ;  the  petty  officers  of  the  said 
gunboats;  Sergeant -Major  Devoy ;  Dr.  Poole;  and  Lieut.  Herries  Smith 
who  commanded   the  Sikhs.      We   reached    Msalemu's    stockades    soon    after 


FOUNDING   THE    PROTECTORATE  139 

daylight,  and  began  to  shell  it.  A  few  shots  were  fired  by  the  enemy,  but 
their  resistance  was  soon  overcome  and  they  fled  from  Msalemu's  and 
Kopakopa  simultaneously,  and  crossed  the  Rukuru  River.  We  therefore 
entered  the  stockades  and  took  possession  of  them.  Kopakopa  however 
had  resolved  to  make  but  little  stand  here  and  to  unite  his  force  with  those 
of  Mlozi  in  the  defence  of  the  latter  town,  where  the  war  would  really  be 
fought  out.  He  had  therefore  retreated  from  his  stockade  in  the  night, 
directly  the  rumour  of  our  landing  had  reached  him,  and  although  he  lost 
some  of  his  men  from  the  fire  of  Major  Trollope's  party  he  succeeded  in 
effecting  his  retreat  to  Mlozi's. 

After  a  short  rest  at  Kopakopa's  we  marched  along  the  Arab  road  to  Mlozi's 
stockade  and  came  up  with  Major  Trollope's  force  at  i  p.m.  Getting  the  guns 
into  position  Commander  Cullen  commenced  a'most  effective  fire,  which  would 
have  probably  burned  Mlozi's  town  to  the  ground  then  and  there  but  for  a 
terribly  heavy  rain  falling  at  the  time.      The  enemy  returned  our  fire  with 


THE  TRANSPORTS  ON   THEIR   WAY   TO   KARONGA 

ARRIVING   IN    LIKOMA    BAY,   EAST   KYASA 


vigour  but  could  only  use  against  us  rifles,  muzzle-loading  guns,  and  one 
muzzle-loading  cannon.  Although  their  firing  was  fairly  good  we  kept  pretty 
much  outside  their  range.  We  sheltered  ourselves  in  one  or  two  outlying 
villages  which  apparently  had  been  built  for  the  housing  of  slaves.  One  of 
these  settlements  was  within  250  yards  of  the  main  entrance  of  Mlozi's  stockade 
and  this  we  managed  to  occupy,  with  only  one  serious  casualty.  It  is  true 
we  were  not  very  well  sheltered  from  Mlozi's  fire  in  this  position,  but  then  the 
fire  of  his  men  was  rather  high  and  the  bullets  whistled  harmlessly  over  our 
heads.  We  now  drew  the  cordon  tighter  round  Mlozi's  stockade  in  an  almost 
continuous  ring  of  armed  men.  About  700  Wankonde  people  had  tendered 
their  services  as  carriers  for  our  guns,  and  these  men  though  unwilling  to  get 
within  fire  still  assisted  us  in  repelling  sorties  from  the  stockade,  which,  as  the 
bombardment  continued,  became  fiercer  and  more  frequent. 

Mlozi's  town  was  of  large  extent,  perhaps  half  a  square  mile  in  area,  and 
it  was  surrounded  by  a  rather  remarkable  stockade  which  consisted  of  a  double 
fence  of  withes  thoroughly  coated  with  hard  clay  and  with  a  flat  roof  of  wooden 
beams,  thatch  and  clay.  This  hollow  stockade  was  cut  up  by  transverse  parti- 
tions into  innumerable  dwellings.  It  was  loopholed  in  two  rows  and  pits  were 
dug  below  the  level  of  the  ground  for  the  shelter  of  the  defenders  who  fired 


HO  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

from  the  upper  and  the  lower  loopholes.  Here  and  there  angles  of  the 
stockade  were  guarded  by  specially  strong  bastions,  and  in  most  places  there 
was  a  kind  of  moat  below  the  glacis  of  the  stockade.  At  intervals  small  gate- 
ways had  been  made,  their  doors  being  of  heavy  hewn  planks  and  the  passages 
through  the  doorway  into  the  town  most  intricate.  It  was  an  admirable 
stockade  for  the  purpose  as  shells  had  no  effect  on  it,  merely  making  a  round 
hole  as  they  passed  through,  the  resistance  being  too  weak  to  cause  any  breach 
to  be  made  by  an  exploding  shell.  Mlozi's  weakness  lay,  however,  in  his  not 
having  built  his  stockade  alongside  the  water  from  which  he  was  separated 
by  nearly  a  quarter  of  a  mile.  We  had  cut  him  off*  from  his  water  supply,  and 
although  rain  fell  in  abundance  the  water  obtained  was  not  sufficient  for  the 
enormous  number  of  people  cooped  up  in  the  stockade,  and  the  cattle.  More- 
over within  the  stockade  the  houses  were  closely  packed  with  inflammable  grass 
roofs,  and  these  were  soon  set  on  fire  by  incendiary  shells.  Naturally  many 
of  the  people  took  shelter  in  pits  below  the  ground ;  still  the  bombardment 
caused  great  loss  of  life.  A  sortie  en  force  was  made  on  the  night  of  the 
2nd  of  December,  but  was  smartly  repelled  by  Commander  Cullen  with  his 
Nordenfelt  gun. 

At  seven  o'clock  in  the  morning  of  the  following  day  just  as  we  had  resumed 
our  artillery  fire,  Mlozi  hoisted  a  flag  of  truce.  We  ceased  firing  and  I  walked 
up  to  within  a  short  distance  of  the  walls  to  meet  Mlozi  who  had  come  out 
of  the  main  gateway.  I  was  going  to  meet  him  face  to  face,  but  that  one 
of  the  black  sailors  of  the  gunboats,  a  native  of  Zanzibar,  warned  me  that 
he  had  overheard  the  Arabs  advising  Mlozi  to  stab  me  as  soon  as  I  came  from 
under  the  guns  of  the  fort  and  then  to  retreat  through  the  open  gateway.  This 
may  or  may  not  have  been  Mlozi's  intention.  At  any  rate  I  deemed  it  prudent 
to  halt  him  at  about  eight  yards  distance,  and  from  this  point  I  spoke  to  him. 
He  asked  what  would  be  our  terms  of  peace  and  I  replied  "the  immediate 
surrender  of  himself  and  all  the  other  Arabs  and  of  their  fighting  men,  and  the 
giving  up  of  their  guns  and  the  release  of  all  slaves  held  in  the  fort."  If  he 
would  fulfil  these  conditions  I  promised  the  Arabs  and  all  their  men  their  lives,, 
but  declined  to  commit  myself  to  any  other  promises  until  I  had  investigated 
the  whole  case.  Mlozi  after  some  hesitation  said  that  he  would  return  and 
consult  Kopakopa.  Meantime  two  of  his  leading  men  were  given  to  us  as 
hostages,  so  that  we  might  approach  nearer  to  the  fort  and  converse  with  the 
Arabs.  Presently,  however,  an  Arab — it  may  have  been  Mlozi — came  out 
of  the  gateway  and  shouted  to  us  that  they  would  go  on  fighting ;  if  we  wanted 
them  we  must  come  and  take  them.  We  therefore  released  the  hostages  and 
allowed  them  to  return,  but  before  the  flag  of  truce  could  be  taken  down  Mlozi 
had  opened  fire  on  Lieut.  Alston  and  on  my  camp.  Fortunately  the  bullets 
passed  through  Lieut.  Alston's  helmet  and  left  him  uninjured,  while  I  had  just 
entered  a  hut  and  so  escaped  the  fire  directed  at  me. 

I  hesitated  to  sanction  an  immediate  assault  on  the  stockade  as  it  appeared 
likely  to  result  in  a  terrible  loss  of  life  to  our  men.  I  therefore  decided  it  was 
best  that  we  should  continue  the  bombardment  and  protract  the  war,  so  as 
to  cause  Mlozi  to  use  up  much  of  his  ammunition  before  we  finally  assaulted 
the  stockade.  But  matters  were  precipitated  by  the  excellence  of  our  artillery 
fire.  A  refugee  Mhenga  chief,  who  had  escaped  from  the  stockade  during  the 
truce,  pointed  out  to  us  the  exact  situation  of  Mlozi's  house,  the  roof  of  which 
rose  somewhat  above  the  other  buildings.  Commander  Cullen  sighted  a 
g-pounder  gun   very  carefully,  and  Sergeant- Major  Devoy  landed  three  shells 


FOUNDING   THE    PROTECTORATE 


141 


in  the  middle  of  this,  one  passing  through  the  doorway  and  killing  four  men. 
One  of  the  shells  that  burst  in  Mlozi's  house,  wounded  Mlozi  in  the  head 
and  killed  one  of  his  followers.  The  rumoui  went  about  that  Mlozi  was  dead 
and  a  furious  sortie  took  place — a  sortie  which  elicited  from  us  no  pity  because 
it  was  almost  as  much  an  impetuous  attack  on  our  own  positions.  The  bullets 
simply  whistled  through  the  air,  and  it  was  marvellous  that  we  did  not  meet 
with  more  casualties;  but  our  soldiers  fought  splendidly,  and  strange  to  say 
the  timid  Wankonde  also  came  to  the  front  and  between  two  and  three  hundred 
of  Mlozi's  men  were  shot  or  speared ;  amongst  them  fell  four  Arabs,  one  of 
them  alleged  to  be  Kopakopa,  though  it  would  afterwards  seem  he  was 
Kopakopa    of  Tanganyika,   and    not   the   man    who   had    built   the   stockade 


A   CORNER  OF   MLOZI  S   STOCKADE 


near  Karonga.  The  latter  is  said  to  have  been  severely  wounded  but 
is  still  living  in  the  Senga  country.  Our  attempts  to  repulse  the  sortie 
brought  the  Sikhs  close  up  to  the  walls,  and  somehow  or  other  with  or  without 
command  from  their  officers  they  scaled  the  ramparts  and  stood  on  the  roof. 
Lieuts.  de  Herries  Smith  and  Coape- Smith  were  dragged  up  on  to  the  roof 
of  the  stockade  by  the  first  Sikhs  who  had  got  there,  and  the  first  man  to 
jump  down  into  the  stockade  was  Lieut,  de  Herries  Smith,  who  immediately 
fell,  shot  through  the  right  arm.  Lieut.  Coape-Smith  and  Mr.  Gordon  Gumming 
followed  Herries  Smith,  lifted  him  up  and  carried  him  out  of  the  Arab  fire. 
Majors  Edwards  and  Bradshaw  had  by  this  time  arrived  from  Karonga,  and 
together  with  Gommander  Gullen,  Dr.  Poole  and  myself  and  the  other  officers 
made  for  the  stockade.  Lieut.  Alston  and  Major  Trollope  had  joined  the  party 
under  Goape- Smith.  Edwards  and  Bradshaw  scrambled  over  the  walls. 
Gommander  Gullen   made  a  breach  through  the  doorway  with  axes,  and  he 


142  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

and  I  passed  in,  having  been  preceded  by  a  number  of  Wankonde  who  drove 
out  the  cattle.  Night  had  now  fallen  ;  we  had  lost  one  Sikh  and  three  Atonga 
killed,  and  Lieut,  de  Herries  Smith  severely  wounded,  besides  one  Sikh  hospital 
assistant  and  five  Sikhs  and  five  native  soldiers  were  more  or  less  severely 
wounded. 

Nothing  had  as  yet  been  seen  of  Mlozi.  Every  effort  had  been  made 
to  protect  the  women,  no  matter  whether  they  were  the  Arabs'  wives  or 
their  slaves,  and  fortunately  little  or  no  loss  of  life  took  place  amongst  them. 
They  were  soon  safely  housed  in  our  main  camp  and  here  they  gave  us  valuable 
information  as  to  the  whereabouts  of  Mlozi.  All  search  for  this  man  in  his 
dwelling,  however,  proved  fruitless,  and  we  were  returning  to  our  camp  at 
night  very  disconsolate,  when  suddenly  the  rumour  went  up  that  he  had  been 


THE   NYASA-TANGANYIKA   ROAD 

MADE   BY  THE   BRITISH  CENTRAL   AFRICA  ADMINISTRATION) 

captured  and  brought  in  by  Sergeant- Major  Bandawe  of  the  Atonga.  Bandawe 
soon  appeared  leading  Mlozi  captive  and  related  the  remarkable  feat  of  his  capture 
which  was  as  follows  : — After  the  Sikhs  and  officers  had  given  up  searching  Mlozi's 
house  Bandawe  had  remained  behind  feeling  certain  that  there  was  some  secret 
hiding  place.  After  an  interval  during  which  he  remained  perfectly  quiet  he 
fancied  he  heard  voices  speaking  underground.  In  the  corner  of  the  main  room 
was  a  bedstead,  and  under  the  bedstead  was  an  opening  leading  to  an  under- 
ground chamber.  Crawling  under  the  bed  Bandawe  heard  Mlozi  asking,  "  Who 
is  there?"  Mimicking  the  voice  of  a  Swahili,  he  replied  "It  is  I,  master,*'  and 
descended  to  the  underground  chamber,  where  he  found  Mlozi  being  guarded 
by  a  man  with  a  spear.  Bandawe  had  no  weapon  with  him  but  threw  himself 
on  the  man  and  wrenched  his  spear  from  him  which  he  then  ran  through  his 
body.  Turning  to  Mlozi  he  threatened  to  kill  him  at  once  unless  he  followed 
him  without  resistance.  Mlozi  who  was  stupid  with  his  wound  did  so,  and  he 
was  safely  brought  into  the  camp  by  Bandawe. 

Wc   had    found    out    from    some   of    the   runaway   slaves   that  during  the 


FOUNDING   THE    PROTECTORATE 


H3 


bombardment  Mlozi  had  caused  a  good  many  of  the  hostages  whom  he  had 
detained  from  the  natives  to  be  slaughtered.  I  therefore  summoned  a  council 
of  the  Wankonde  chiefs,  and  under  my  superintendence  they  tried  Mlozi  on 
this  count.  He  was  found  guilty  and  sentenced  to  death.  When  called  upon 
for  his  defence  he  merely  said,  "  What  is  the  good  ?  These  people  are  resolved 
that  I  shall  die.     My  hour  is  come." 

He  was  sentenced  to  be  hanged,  but  it  was  originally  intended  that  this 
sentence  should  be  carried  out  at  Karonga.  After  the  trial,  however,  a  number 
of  Mlozi's  men  who  were  prisoners  succeeded  in  overpowering  the  guard  and 
escaping,  and  the  rumour  went  about  that  Kapanda-nsaru's  forces  were  at  hand 
coming  to  the  relief  of  Mlozi.  As  a  strong  flank  attack  on  the  part  of  the 
Arabs  might  have  cut  off  our  line  of  retreat  to  Karonga,  it  was  resolved  that 
Mlozi's  execution  should  take  place  immediately,  so  that  we  might  be  released 


IHE   NYASA-TANGANYIKA   ROAD 


from  the  responsibility  of  guarding  him.  He  was  accordingly  hanged  on  the 
afternoon  of  the  4th  December,  in  the  presence  of  the  Wankonde  chiefs. 

On  the  fourth  day  of  the  campaign  we  were  back  again  at  Karonga ;  but 
here  we  found  to  our  great  disgust  that  the  S.s.  Domira,  contrary  to  my  orders, 
had  been  sent  away  by  the  agent  of  the  African  Lakes  Company.  The 
departure  of  the  officers  and  men  was  therefore  delayed  for  some  weeks. 
Meantime  I  left  for  the  south  with  Major  Edwards  to  attend  to  other  matters 
that  were  pressing. 

My  three  days  at  Mlozi's  without  sufficient  shelter  in  the  midst  of  pouring 
rain,  without  proper  food  and  having  to  place  my  mattress  on  the  wet  ground 
and  to  drink  the  foul  water  of  the  early  rains,  had  begun  to  make  me  very  ill,  and 
a  few  days  after  leaving  Karonga  I  was  down  with  an  attack  of  black-water 
fever,  in  which  I  was  most  tenderly  and  carefully  nursed  by  Major  Edwards 
who  conveyed  me  on  the  German  steamer  to  Fort  Johnston  and  thence  to 
Liwonde,  where  I  was  joined  by  Dr.  Poole,  who  eventually  landed  me  safe  and 
sound  and  recovered  at  Zomba.    Meanwhile  Lieut.  Coape-Smith  and  Mr.  Gordon 


144 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


Cumming  were  destroying  the  remainder  of  the  Arab  stockades  in  the  North 
Nyasa  districts,  and  Lieut.  Alston  and  Mr.  A.  J.  Swann  were  conducting  a 
brilliantly  successful  expedition  in  the  interior  of  the  Marimba  district  where 
the  notorious  Saidi  Mwazungu  ^  had  induced  the  powerful  chief  Mwasi  Kazungu 
to  declare  war  against  the  British. 

After  a  little  fighting  Saidi  Mwazungu  surrendered,  but  Mwasi  declined  to 
make  peace.  His  capital  was  stormed  and  taken.  He  himself  escaped,  but 
soon  afterwards  committed  suicide.  He  was  of  Achewa  race,  but  was  allied  to 
the  Angoni,  and  had  under  him  many  Angoni  headmen.  Originally  it  was 
intended  that  his  attack  on  our  positions  in  Jumbe's  country  should  coincide 


IN   FORT  HILL 


with  the  Arab  outbreak,  but  the  movements  were  not  quite  simultaneous  and 
we  were  therefore  able  to  deal  with  each  in  turn. 

It  had  finally  been  resolved  by  me  that  the  campaign  should  close  with  the 
<lriving  out  of  two  Yao  robber  chiefs  who  had  settled  in  the  Central  Angoniland 
district — Tambala  and  Mpemba.  Captain  Stewart  led  an  expedition  into 
Central  Angoniland  which  was  joined  by  Lieut.  Alston.  Tambala's  stronghold 
was  captured  and  he  himself  fled.  Mpemba  hid  in  the  bush  but  later  on  was 
made  prisoner  by  Commander  Cullen  and  Mr.  Gordon  Cumming.  The  latter 
succeeded  Captain  Stewart  in  the  command  of  the  Central  Angoniland  district, 
and  did  a  great  deal  to  bring  it  into  order. 

Here  as  elsewhere  in  Nyasaland  we  were  much  assisted  in  our  campaigns 
by  the  real  natives  of  the  country  who  were  almost  always  opposed  to  the 

*  This  was  the  man  who  as  before  related  ordered  the  massacre  of  Dr.  Boyce  and  Mr.  McEwan. 
After  our  conquest  of  Makanjira's  country,  Saidi  Mwazungu  fled  to  the  west  of  Nyasa,  and  settled  with 
Mwasi  Kazungu  where  he  was  surrounded  l^y  a  number  of  refugees  from  Makanjira's. 


FOUNDING   THE   PROTECTORATE 


H5 


chiefs  of  alien  origin  who  ruled  over  them  and  were  in  conflict  with  the 
British.  The  bulk  of  the  inhabitants  in  Central  Angoniland  are  neither  Angoni 
nor  Yao  but  Achewa  and  A-chipeta,  branches  of  the  A-nyanja  stock. 

At  the  north  end  of  Lake  Nyasa  a  new  Administration  station  was  built 
by  Mr.  G.  A.  Taylor  the  collector,  near  Karonga,  and  a  strong  fort,  called  Fort 
Hill,*  was  erected  near  the  British  South  Africa  Company's  boundary  by 
Mr.  Yule,  for  the  purpose  of  guarding  the  Nyasa-Tanganyika  road  from  the 
raids  of  the  Awemba. 

The  Awemba  are  a  warlike  race  inhabiting  the  regions  of  the  Nyasa- 
Tanganyika    plateau    which    are    watered    by    the    River    Chapibezi.      They 


y 


THE   STOCKADE,    FORT   HILL 

originally  came  from  the  country  of  Itawa  on  the  south-west  coast  of 
Tanganyika.  In  Livingstone's  day  they  do  not  appear  to  have  been  a 
particularly  warlike  or  aggressive  race ;  but  soon  after  they  came  under  Arab 
influence  and  were  Supplied  by  the  Arabs  with  guns  and  gunpowder,  and 
thenceforth  took  to  slave  raiding  with  extraordinary  zest.  For  several  years 
past  they  had  harried  not  only  the  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau  at  the  south 
end  of  Tanganyika,  but  even  the  territory  that  has  recently  come  under 
German  influence ;  and  of  late  they  had  been  taken  up  by  Mlozi  as  his  special 
allies,  and  were  introduced  by  him  into  the  North  Xyasa  district  from  which 
their  stragglers  have  been  expelled  since  the  conclusion  of  the  Arab  war.  As 
a  people,  however,  they  are  by  no  means  indisposed  to  come  to  terms  with 
us  if  they  see  that  we  are  a  strong  power. 

A  strong  fort  was  built  in  the  spring  and  summer  of   this  year  by  Lieut. 

*  After  Sir  Clement  Hill,  the  head  of  the  African  Department  at  the  Foreign  OflTicc. 
ID 


146 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


Alston  on  the  site  of  Zarafi's  town  at  Mangoche  Mountain.  Zarafi's  former 
capital  was  situated  on.  a  neck  or  pass  between  high  mountains  and  constituted 
one  of  the  most  obvious  and  frequented  roads  into  British  Central  Africa.  The 
boundaries  of  this  Protectorate  are  so  well  guarded  by  lofty  and  inaccessible 
ranges  of  mountains  or  by  broad  lakes  and  swamps  that  there  are  not  many 
routes  by  which  it  can  be  easily  approached  from  the  East  Coast.  The  road 
through  Zarafi's  country  however  is  so  easy  that  it  will  always  require  to 
be  specially  guarded  if  the  slave  trade  is  to  be  stopped. 

In  the  month  of  May,  1896,  I  had  a  serious  relapse  of  bilious  remittent 
fever  which  ultimately  developed  haematuric  symptoms.  I  therefore  returned  to 
England  on  leave  of  absence,  being  relieved  by  Mr.  Sharpe,  who  had  been 
in  England  during  the  second  half  of  1895.  Since  my  return  the  progress 
of  the  country  has  continued  almost  without  check  or  interruption.  Raids 
on  the  part  of  the  southern  Angoni  into  the  south-western  portion  of  the 
Protectorate  occurred  in  the  autumn  of  1896,  apparently  as  a  reflex  of  the 
agitation  amongst  their  Matabele  kindred  in  the  south.  These  were  sharply 
punished  by  a  force  dispatched  against  the  chiefs  Chikusi  and  Odete  under 
Captains  F.  T.  Stewart  and  W.  H.  Manning,  and  Lieut.  Alston.  The  latter 
had  previously  captured  a  slave-raiding  chief  named  Katuri  who  lived  near 
Fort  Mangoche,  and  who  might  be  described  as  the  last  unconquered  adherent 
of  the  Zarafi  clan.  With  these  exceptions  the  tranquillity  of  the  Protectorate 
has  not  been  further  disturbed.  The  Imperial  Government  has  placed  the 
British  South  Africa  Ctjmpany's  forces  in  the  adjoining  Sphere  of  Influence 
under  an  Imperial  Officer  who  is  subordinated  to  the  control  of  Lieut.- 
Colonel    Edwards,  or   whoever  commands    the   armed   forces   in   the    British 

Central  Africa  Protectorate.  The  efficiency 
of  the  Administration  was  further  recog- 
nised by  the  Admiralty  who  proposed 
handing  over  to  us  the  gunboats  on  the 
Zambezi  and  Lower  Shire,  in  a  way 
similar  to  the  transference  of  the  lake 
gunboats  in  1895  ;  but  for  various  reasons 
it  has  been  deemed  preferable  to  retain"^ 
these  vessels  under  the  White  Ensign. 
A  brief  summary  of  the  results  of 
the  British  administration  of  this 
Protectorate  from  1891  to  1896 
may  be  expressed  as  follows : — 
At  the  commencement  of  our 
administration  in  July,  1891, 
there  were,  as  far  as  I  can 
calculate,  fifty-seven  Europ- 
eans resident  in  the  British 
Central  Africa  Protector- 
ate, and  in  the  adjoining 
Sphere  of  the  British  South 
Africa  Company.  Of  these 
one  was  French,  two  were 
Austrian  Poles,  and  the 
remainder  were  British.  In  the  summer  of  1896  the  European  settlers  in  the 
Protectorate  alone  exceeded  300  in  number,  and  probably  amounted  to  forty- 


/ 


MR.    ALFRED   SHARPE   IN    1896 


FOUNDING   THE    PROTECTORATE 


^\7 


five  in  the  adjoining  Sphere  of  the  British  South  Africa  Company.^  At  the 
time  I  made  this  calculation  as  to  the  number  of  the  Europeans  in  the 
Protectorate,  in  the  summer  of  1896,  I  ascertained  that  30  were  non-British 
subjects,  and  consisted  of  13  Germans,  8  Dutch,  i  Frenchman,  2  Italians, 
5  Austro- Hungarians,  and  i  Portuguese.  Amongst  the  British  subjects  in 
the  late  summer  of  1896  there  were  119  Scotch,  123  English  and  Welsh, 
7  Irish,  2  Australians,  23  South  Africans,  i  Anglo-Indian,  and  3  Eurasians. 
The  number  of  Indians  has  risen  from  nil  to  263,  of  whom  56  were  Indian 
traders.  All  these  Indians,  with  the  exception  of  14  who  were  natives  of 
Portuguese  India,  were  British- Indian  subjects. 

The  total  amount  of  trade  done  with  British  Central  Africa  in  1891,  so  far 
as  I  could  calculate  from  information  supplied  by  the  African  Lakes  Company, 


THE  ZOMBA-MLANJE   ROAD 

was  ;f 39,965    in  value.     In   April,    1896,  the   year's   trade   was   computed    at 

;f  102,428.     The  export  of  coffee  in  i8qi  amounted  to  at  most  a  few  pounds. 

It  is  computed  that  in  i«Qcr320  jpns  were  shipped  home  from  British  Central 

Itlfica,  and  much 'of  this  cpffee  attained  the  very  high  prices  of  113.^.  od.  arid 

.UJJ.  Q^  a  CWt. 

In  1 89 1  there  were  four  British  steamers^  on  the  Zambezi  and  Lower  Shire 
(besides  one  steam  launch  owned  by  Mr.  Sharrer),  two  of  which  were  gunboats 
belonging  to  Her  Majesty's  Navy.  There  are  now  seventeen  British  steamers 
on  the  Zambezi  and  the  Shire,  and  forty-six  cargo  boats  mostly  built  of  steel, 
besides  innumerable  small  wooden  boats  and  large  cargo  canoes.  On  Lake 
Nyasa  and  the  Upper  Shire  the  number  of  steamers  has  increased  from  three  in 
1 89 1  to  six  in  i8g6,  in  addition  to  which  there  are  several  large  sailing  boats 

*  At  the  date  of  the  publication  of  this  book  the  number  of  Europeans  in  the  Protectorate  amounts 
to  315. 

*  In  the  twelve  months  from  the  1st  of  January,  1895,  to  the  31st  December,  1895,  109  steamers,  360 
targes,  169  boats,  and  178  large  canoes  entered  and  discharged  at  the  British  port  at  Chiromo  on  the 
Lower  Shire. 


148 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


and  cargo  barges.     The  captured  daus  it  may  be  noted  have  been  repaired  by 
us  and  are  now  plying  in  the  service  of  the  Government 

There  was  of  course  no  postal  service  in  1891,  and  letters  were  generally  sent 
through  the  African  Lakes  Company  to  the  Vice-Consul  at  Quelimane  together 
with  money  for  postage  stamps,  and  this  official  stamped  the  letters  with 
Portuguese  stamps,  and  sent  them  home  from  the  Portuguese  Post  Office. 
We  commenced  to  establish  a  postal  service  in  July,  1891.  There  are  now 
eighteen  Post  Offices  in  the  Protectorate,  and  five  in  the  British  South 
Africa  Company's  sphere,  while  our  postal  service  extends  from  Chinde  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Zambezi  to  Tanganyika,  Mweru,  and  the  Congo  Free  State. 


A   FOOTBRIDGE  ACROSS  THE   MLUNGUSI    (ZOMBA) 

In  the  month  of  November,  1895,  which  was  taken  as  an  average  month, 
the  total  number  of  articles  carried  by  our  postal  service  in, the  Protectorate, 
including  letters,  postcards,  book  packets,  newspapers,  and  parcels,  inwards  and 
outwards,  was  29,802  as  compared  with  25,592  in  November,  1894,  and  19,383 
in  November,  1893.  Besides  this  we  carry  the  mails  of  the  German  Government 
from  Lake  Nyasa  to  Chinde.'  Our  parcel-post  service  was  started  in  1893 
and  has  been  extended  to  the  South  African  Colonies  and  England  and 
to  Zanzibar  and  Aden  and  India.  A  money  order  system  has  just  been 
established. 

Want  of  funds  in   1894  compelled  us  to  adopt  a  rather  cheap  and  inferior 

'  In  return  for  which  the  (icrman  sul)sitlized  steamers  carry  our  correspondence  between  Chinde 
and  Zanzibar 


FOUNDING   THE   PROTECTORATE  149 

issue  of  stamps,  but  by  a  grant  from  the  Treasury  we  have  now  been  able 
to  have  a  thoroughly  satisfactory  issue  engraved  by  Messrs.  De  La  Rue. 
The  design  of  the  stamps  is  that  of  the  Coat  of  Arms  of  the  Protectorate. 
Their  values  are  id.,  2d.,  ^d,  6d,,  is.,  2s.  6d.,  y.,  ^s.,£i,  ;^io.  They  are  used 
alike  in  the  collection  of  revenue  as  in  the  payment  of  postal  charges. 

At  Chinde  on  the  British  Concession  there  is  a  Post  Office  of  Exchange, 
at  which  mails  are  landed  from  or  transferred  to  the  ocean-going  steamers. 
Letters  or  other  material  arriving  from  the  outer  world  at  Chinde  are  sorted 
at  this  Post  Office  of  Exchange  into  bags  for  the  various  postal  districts  in 
British  Central  Africa,  and  into  bags  for  the  German  territories  and  for  the 
Congo  Free  State,  and  are  then  shipped  up  river  by  the  various  steamers  plying 
between  Chinde  and  Chiromo.  At  Chiromo  the  bags  are  sent  overland  to  the 
different  Post  Offices  of  distribution  between  the  Lower  Shire  and  Lake  Nyasa, 
being  carried  by  native  postmen  who  wear  a  special  uniform  of  scarlet  and 
white.  These  men  travel  at  the  rate  of  25  miles  a  day,  and  are  wonderfully 
faithful  and  careful  in  the  delivery  of  their  precious  charges.  Cases  have  been 
known  where  postal  carriers  have  been  drowned  in  the  crossing  of  flooded 
rivers  by  their  obstinacy  in  not  parting  from  their  mail  bags,  and  where  they 
have  fought  bravely  and  successfully  against  odds  in  an  attack  by  highway 
robbers.  The  negro  of  Central  Africa  has  a  genuine  respect  for  the  written 
word.  Of  course  the  time  will  come  when  attendant  on  the  growth  of  civiliza- 
tion, native  postmen  will  probably  commit  robberies  of  registered  letters,  as  is 
occasionally  done  by  their  European  colleagues;  but  at  the  present  time  our 
mails  are  perfectly  safe  in  their  hands. 

In  1891  there  was  about  one  mile  of  road — that  between  the  Mission  station 
at  Blantyre  and  the  African  Lakes  Compan/s  store — over  which  a  vehicle  could 
be  driven.  By  the  end  of  1896  we  had  constructed  some  390^  miles  of  roads 
suited  for  wheeled  traffic,  while  another  80  miles  of  broad  paths  have  been 
cleared  through  the  bush  for  the  passage  of  porters  and  "  machillas."  * 

Attempts  in  great  part  successful  have  been  made  to  improve  the  naviga- 
bility of.  the  Shire  by  removing  the  snags  from  the  approaches  to  Chiromo,  and 
the  sharp  stones  from  the  Nsapa  Rapids  on  the  Upper  Shire ;  and  by  deepening 
the  bar  at  the  entrance  to  Lake  Nyasa.  Last,  and  not  least,  the  Slave  trade, 
and  it  may  almost  be  added  the  status  of  Slavery,  have  been  brought  absolutely 
to  an  end.  Between  1891  and  1894,  861  slaves  were  released  by  various 
officials  of  the  Protectorate,  and  between  1894  and  1896,  1700.  Native  labour 
is  now  organised  in  such  a  way  as  to  protect  the  interests  of  both  the  white 
man  and  the  negro. 

1600  acres  of  land  were  under  cultivation  at  the  hands  of  Europeans  in 
1 89 1,  as  against  5700  acres  in  1896. 

In  1 89 1  no  coin  was  in  circulation  in  the  country,  except  to  a  very  limited 
extent  amongst  Europeans.  Transactions  with  natives  were  carried  on  by 
means  of  the  barter  of  trade  goods.  In  the  three  following  years  the  use  of 
English  coinage  was  introduced  by  the  Administration.  We  imported  several 
thousand  pounds'  worth  of  gold,  silver  and  copper  coins  from  the  Royal  Mint, 
and  put  them  in  circulation  amongst  the  natives  who  immediately  took  to  the 

*  ue.,  Katunga  to  Blantyre,  Blantyre  to  Zomba,  Zomba  to  Fort  Liwonde  (via  Domasi),  Zomba  to  Fort 
Lister,  and  thence  round  Mlanje  to  Fort  Anderson,  Fort  Anderson  to  Chiromo,  Chiromo  to  Chiradzulu 
and  Ntonda,  Blantyre  to  Cholo,  Karonga  to  the  Nyasa-Tanganyika  Plateau,  and  short  roads  in  the 
Blantyre,  Zomba,  South  Nyasa,  Central  Angoniland  and  Marimba  districts. 

'  A  *'  machilla"  it  must  be  remembered  is  a  hammock  or  wicker-work  couch  slung  on  a  pole. 


159 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


new  system.  In  these  efforts  we  were  effectively  seconded  by  the  African 
Lakes  Company  which  estabhshed  a  Banking  Company,  with  its  main  office 
at  Blantyre  and  branches  at  Chinde  and  Fort  Johnston.  Native  wages  are  now 
paid  in  cash,  and  the  Administration  receives  most  of  the  native  taxes  in  cash, 
though  produce  is  still  accepted  in  payment  of  taxes  in  the  outlying  districts. 
Finally,  it  may  be  stated  that  the  local  revenue  raised  from  Customs  Duties, 
Stamp  Duties,  and  Native  Taxes,  which  in  the  year  ended  March  31st,  1892, 
was  only  ;£^I700  in  value,  was  in  the  year  ended  March  31st,  1896,  over 
^■2  2,000. 


THE  GARDENS   OF   THE   RESIDENCY,    ZOMBA 


Attempts,  in  some  degree  successful,  have  been  made  to  check  the  indis- 
criminate slaughter  of  the  elephant,  rhinoceros,  and  gnu,^  and  this  protection 
has  now  been  accorded  to  the  zebra,  wild  swine,  buffalo,  and  most  of  the  rare 
or  more  beautiful  African  antelopes.  Two  game  reserves  for  the  breeding 
of  these  animals  unmolested  by  any  attacks  from  man  have  been  formed,  and 
regulations  for  the  protection  of  wild  game  were  drawn  up  by  the  Foreign 
Office  early  in  the  present  year  (these  will  be  found  in  an  Appendix  to 
Chapter   IX.). 

Some  mention  should  be  made  of  the  excellent  work  done  by  Mr.  Alexander 
Whyte,  F.Z.S.,  the  head  of  our  scientific  department.  He  discovered  on  Mount 
Mlanje   that   most  interesting  conifer  the    Widdringtonia   Whytei — discovered 

*  The  same  restrictions  also  apply  to  the  giraffe,  but  the  giraffe  is  of  ver)'  doubtful  existence  in  British 
Central  Africa. 


FOUNDING   THE    PROTECTORATE 


151 


it  just  in  time  to  save  it  from  extinction  at  the  hands  of  the  natives  who 
would  every  year  ignite  bush-fires  on  the  upper  parts  of  Mlanje,  which  were 
rapidly  destroying  this  valuable  tree.  Successful  efforts  have  now  been  made 
to  replant  other  districts  with  the  Widdringtonia^  the  seed  of  which  has  also 
been  introduced  into  England,  where  it  is  now  cultivated  at  Kew  Gardens 
and  at  the  establishments  of  one  or  two  leading  horticulturists.  Mr.  Whyte, 
with  the  co-operation  of  many  officials  in  the  B.C.A.  Administration  has  made 
remarkable  zoological  and  botanical  collections  which  have  enriched  our  national 
and  provincial  museums.  (Some  idea  of  the  work  we  have  done  in  this  respect 
may  be  obtained  by  glancing  at  the  Appendices  to  Chapters  VIII.  and  IX.) 
Mr.  Whyte  laid  the  foundations  of  a  Botanical  Garden  at  Zomba,  and  has 
distributed  amongst  the  planters  seeds  and  plants  which  he  has  introduced 
on  behalf  of  the  Administration,  or  obtained  from  Kew.  The  authorities 
at  Kew  Gardens  have  from  time  to  time  sent  out  Wardian  cases  containing 
varieties  and  species  of  coffee,  of  bananas,  of  vanilla,  and  of  a  great  many 
other  useful  and  beautiful  trees,  shrubs,  and^  plants  suited  to  cultivation  in  a 
tropical  country. 

Coal  has  been  discovered  by  our  officials  in  various  districts,  and  specimens 
have  been  sent  home  for  analysis. 


MR.    WHYTE   IN   THE   GARDENS   AT   ZOMBA 


152  BRITISH    CENTRAL    AFRICA 


APPENDIX    I 

THE  PRESENT   METHOD   OF  ADMINISTERING   BRITISH 
CENTRAL  AFRICA 

CHAPTER  IV.  may  be  usefully  supplemented  by  a  brief  statement  of  the  present 
methods  of  administration. 

There  are  the  following  Civilian  officials : — 

H.M.  Commissioner  and  Consul-General : 

H.M.  Deputy  Commissioner  and  Consul : 

A  Vice-Consul  and  Agent  of  the  British  Central  Africa  Administration  at  Chinde : 

An  Assistant  Agent  and  Head  Postmaster  at  the  same  place  : 

A  Vice-Consul  at  Blantyre,  and  another  at  Fort  Johnston  : 

A  Secretary  to  the  Administration  ;  an  Assistant  Secretary  and  2  clerks  : 

A  Judicial  Officer  at  Blantyre,  who  is  at  the  head  of  the  Judicial  Establishment : 

A  Chief  Accountant;  3  other  Accountants;  a  Store-keeper  and  Commissariat 
Officer  ;  an  Assistant  ditto  and  a  native  assistant  ditto  ;  a  local  Auditor  : 

A  Postmaster  General ;  a  head  of  the  Scientific  Department  (Mr.  Alexander 
Whyte) ;  an  Assistant  and  Forester  in  the  same  department : 

A  Principal  Medical  Officer,  and  2  other  medical  officers  : 

A  First  Surveyor  (European);  3  other  Surveyors  (Indian,  lent  by  the  Indian  Govern- 
ment) ;  a  Superintendent  of  Road-making,  and  two  Assistant  Superintendents : 

A  Superintendent  of  Public  Works,  with  a  European  assistant  and  6  Indian  artisans : 

1 2  Collectors,  8  of  whom  hold  Judicial  Warrants : 

15  Assistant  Collectors. 

Most  of  the  Collectors  and  Assistant  Collectors  hold  in  addition  the  office  of  Post- 
master. There  are  further,  besides  the  Postmaster-General  at  Blantyre,  and  the  Head 
Postmaster  at  Chinde,  2  special  Postmasters  at  Blantyre  and  at  Zomba. 

The  Armed  Forces  consist  of  the  following  officers  and  men  : — 
A  Commandant  (Lieut. -Colonel  C  A.  Edwards) : 

Second-in-Command  and  Staff  Officer ;  Third  Officer  and  Quarter-Master  : 
Accountant,  Clerk,  Sergeant- Major  of  Artillery,  and  Transport  Officer,  and  2  Indian 
clerks. 

(The  foregoing  are  specially  attached  to  the  Indian  Contingent,  though  their  control 
extends  to  the  rest  of  the  armed  forces.) 

In  the  Contingent  of  Native  troops  there  are  : — 

6  British  Officers;  2  native  Sergeant- Majors ;  and  a  number  of  Police  Corporals  and 
Interpreters. 

The  troops  consist  of 
180  Sikhs,  with  20  followers  and  2   Indian  hospital  assistants,  and    about   1,000 
native  soldiers,  armed  porters  and  policemen. 


APPENDIX 


153 


The  Naval  Service  consists  of  a 
Commandant  (Commander  Percy  Cullen,  R.N.R.)  and 

3  other  Naval  Officers,  all  of  whom  are  chosen  from  the  Royal  Naval  Reserve ;  and 

4  Warrant  Officers,  who  are  pensioners  in  the  Royal  Navy ; 
A  Chief  Engineer,  and  4  other  engineers ; 

4  Indian  Artificers  ; 

Other  European  carpenters,  clerks,  store-keepers,  &c. ;  and  about 

80  "  Sidi  Boys,"  or  native  seamen. 


BARRACKS  AT   FORT  JOHNSTON 

There  are  at  present  in  the  service  of  the  Protectorate  on  the  Upper  Shire  and  on 
Lake  Nyasa,  3  gunboats,  i  barge,  5  steel  boats,  and  2  daus  (Arab  sailing  vessels).  The 
war  vessels  are  well  armed  with  suitable  guns.  A  new  gunboat  of  considerable  size  is 
being  built  for  service  on  Lake  Nyasa,  and  should  be  launched  at  the  beginning  of  1898. 

The  most  important  "  item "  in  the  service  of  the  Protectorate  is  probably  the 
"  Collector."  This  official  superintends  the  collection  of  Customs  Duties,  the  assessment 
and  levying  of  native  taxes  ;  he  directs  the  Civil  police  in  his  district ;  administers  justice 
to  Europeans  and  between  Europeans  and  natives  where  he  holds  a  Warrant  from  the 
Secretary  of  State  to  act  as  a  judicial  officer ;  superintends  the  administration  of  native 
justice ;  and  acts  generally  as  political  officer  and  Tribune  of  the  people.  In  all  Civil 
matters  he  is  supreme  in  his  District,  and  only  subordinate  to  the  Commissioner.  In 
many  cases  he  is  also  responsible  for  the  conduct  of  the  postal  service.  If  he  possesses 
a  great  deal  of  power  he  is  at  the  same  time  almost  invariably  an  overworked  individual, 
with  many  cares  and  responsibilities  on  his  shoulders. 

Justice  is  administered  to  British  subjects  and  other  Europeans  and  foreigners  under 


154 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


the  Africa  Orders  in  Council  of  1891  and  1893  ;  and  to  the  natives  by  such  native  chiefs 
-as  are  authorised  to  hold  Courts  of  Justice  ;  or  more  ordinarily  by  the  judicial  officers  in 
the  district,  acting  in  the  name  and  by  the  authority  of  the  native  chiefs.  Capital 
punishment  on  Europeans  can  only  be  carried  out  after  the  Minutes  of  the  Trial  have 
been  submitted  to  a  Supreme  Court  ^  which  revises  the  sentence,  and  if  it  is  confirmed 
sanctions  the  execution.  Capital  sentences  on  natives  of  the  Protectorate,  imposed  by 
the  native  Cojirt,  cannot  be  carried  out  until  they  have  received  the  sanction  of  the 
Commissioner  of  Zomba,  to  whom  Minutes  of  the  case  are  submitted  2  by  a  provision 
under  the  Africa  Orders  in  Council.  Additional  laws,  governing  the  Protectorate  and 
the  Sphere  of  Influence,  can  be  made  by  the  issue  of  "  Queen's  Regulations,"  which, 
after  receiving  the  assent  of  the  Secretary  of  State  for  Foreign  Affairs,  are  promulgated 
by  the  Commissioner  for  British  Central  Africa.  Special  legislation  of  this  kind  is  chiefly 
directed  to  the  establishment  of  Customs  Duties  and  Taxation,  to  the  protection  of  Big 
Game,  to  the  regulation  of  native  labour  and  of  navigation  on  the  rivers  and  lakes. 

These  Regulations  and  other  announcements  of  a  Governmental  kind  are  published 
in  the  British  Central  Africa  Gazette^  which  is  the  official  organ  of  the  Administration 
and  appears  fortnightly,  issued  by  the  Government  Press  at  Zomba.^ 

Government  land  is  sold  by  public  auction,  and  its  upset  price  at  present  varies  from 
2s.  6d.  to  51.  od.  an  acre. 

There  is  a  central  Hospital  at  Zomba  for  the  treatment  of  the  European  servants  of 
the  Administration,  and  a  native  hospital. 

For  Administrative  purposes  the  Protectorate  is  divided  into  the  following  districts: — 


Lower  Shire  (Capital,  Port  Herald). 
Ruo  (Capital,  Chiromo). 
Mlanje  (Capital,  Fort  Anderson). 
Zomba  (Capital,  Zomba). 
Blantyre  (Capital,  Blantyre). 
West  Shire  (Capital,  Chikwawa). 


Upper  Shire  (Capital,  Liwonde). 
South  Nyasa  (Capital,  Fort  Johnston). 
Central  Angoniland  (Capital,^  Tambala). 
Marimba  (Capital,  Kotakota). 
VV^est  Nyasa  (Capital,  Nkata). 
North  Nyasa  (Capital,  Karonga). 


^  Which  at  present  is  the  High  Court  of  Cape  Colony. 

'^  There  have  only  been  four  executions  for  murder  amongst  the  natives  since  1891.  One  was 
the  execution  of  a  native  of  Kotakota,  who  killed  a  Makua  soldier ;  the  second,  the  execution  of  Mlozi : 
the  third,  the  execution  of  Saidi  Mwazungu,  who  killed  Dr.  Boyce  and  Mr.  McEwan  ;  and  the  fourth  the 
execution  of  the  Angoni  Chief,  Chikusi. 

^  Where  there  are  I  European  superintendent  and  6  native  printers. 

^  It  is  probable  that  the  capital  will  l)e  removed  to  Chiwere. 


THE   RKSIDENCY,    ZOMBA 


J  G.  B*J*JiDii3in(rw 


CHAPTER    V. 
THE    SLAVE    TRADE 

IN  regard  to  the  slave  trade,  a  few  words  of  explanation  and  description  may 
be  of  interest.  Slavery  has  probably  existed  among  mankind  from  time 
immemorial,  and  no  doubt  one  race  of  negroes  enslaved  another  ages  before 
the  ancient  Egyptians  and  Phoenicians  introduced  the  slave  trade,  by  which  is 
meant  the  deliberate  expatriation  of  negroes  to  countries  beyond  the  sea,  or  to 
parts  of  Africa  not  inhabited  by  the  negro  race.  But  the  horrors  of  the  slave 
trade  are  attributable,  firstly  to  Europeans,  and  secondly  to  Arabs. 

The  English,  Spanish,  Portuguese  and  French  had  commenced  trafficking  in 
negro  slaves  from  the  West  Coast  of  Africa  when*  that  coast  became  opened  up 
to  geographical  knowledge  in  the  fourteenth  and  fifteenth  centuries.  In  the 
sixteenth  century  organised  attempts  were  made  to  replace  the  disappearing 
aborigines  of  the  West  Indies  by  negro  slaves ;  then  came  the  introduction  of 
negroes  into  the  southern  States  of  North  America.  At  first  the  trade  was 
confined  to  the  West  Coast  but  the  Portuguese  commenced  to  export  slaves 
from  East  Africa  in  the  seventeenth  century,  and  thenceforward  a  mighty  slave 
trade  sprang  up  in  the  valley  of  the  Zambezi  which  is  not  yet  extinct,  although 
several  measures  for  its  abolition  have  been  taken  by  the  Portuguese  Govern- 
ment during  the  present  century. 

Maskat  Arabs  who  warred  with  the  Portuguese  in  East  Africa  and  gradually 
supplanted  them  in  all  the  settlements  between  Aden  and  the  Ruvuma  River, 
organised  a  brisk  traffic  to  supply  the  markets  of  the  East  with  black  concubines, 
black  eunuchs,  and  strong-armed  willing  workers. 

Slaves  thus  became  indispensable  to  Arabia,  Egypt,  Mesopotamia  and 
I'ersia,  and  Abyssinian  slaves  were  even  introduced  in  numbers  to  the  West 
Coast  of  India  where  they  were  turned  into  fighting  men  or  into  regular  castes 
of  seamen.^ 

The  Moors  of  Northern  Africa,  however,  had  almost  shown  the  way  in  the 
matter  of  the  slave  trade  to  the  nations  of  Western  Europe  by  developing  an 
active  intercourse  with  the  regions  of  the  Nigerian  Sudan,  so  that  all  Northern 
Africa  was  abundantly  supplied  with  a  caste  of  negro  workers  while  negro 
blood  mingled  freely  in  many  of  the  Arab  and  Berber  tribes. 

The  worst  horrors  of  the  slave  trade  were  probably  the  miseries  endured  by 
the  closely-packed  negroes  on  slave  ships,  where  from  want  of  ventilation  and  of 
such  treatment  as  would  nowadays  be  accorded  as  a  duty  to  cargoes  of  beasts, 
they  endured  untold  miseries  and  developed  strange  maladies.     Moreover,  to 

^  Curiously  enough  some  of  these  slaves  revolted  and  formed  communities  of  their  own  in  Western 
India,  now  recognised  by  the  Imperial  Government  as  small  tributary  States  under  negroid  rulers  of 
Abyssinian  descent. 

155 


156 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


supply  the  slave  market  in  America  incessant  civil  war  was  raging  amongst  the 
coast  tribes  of  West  Africa.  But  the  Arabs  of  East-Central  Africa  have  run  us 
hard  in  the  matter  of  wickedness.  I  do  not  need  to  recapitulate  the  horrors  of 
slave  raids  and  the  miseries  of  slave  caravans :  they  are  graphically  described 
by  Livingstone.^ 

The  Arabs  of  Maskat  from  the  Zanzibar  coast  and  the  half-breed  Portuguese 
from  the  Zambezi  joined  together  to  devastate  what  is  now  called  British  Central 
Africa. 

The  slaves  from  the  Senga  and  Bisa  countries  in  the  Luangwa  valley  and 
from  much  of  Southern  Nyasaland  found  their  way  to  Tete  on  the  Zambezi,  and 

thence  to  Quelimahe  and  Mozambique,  where 
they  were  picked  up  by  American  ships  as 
late  as  the  beginning  of  the  "  sixties."  Some 
of  these  ships  eluded  the  British  gunboats ; 
others  were  captured  and  taken  to  Sierra 
Leone.  Here,  strange  to  say,  many  inhabitants 
of  Nyasaland  and  of  the  countries  as  far  west 
as  the  Lualaba,  were  landed  in  the  "  forties  " 
and  "fifties"  of  this  century,  and  were  ex- 
amined as  to  their  languages  by  Mr.  Koelle, 
a  German  missionary  of  great  learning,  who, 
in  his  Polyglotta  Africana,  produced  one  of 
the  finest  books  ever  written  on  the  subject 
of  African  languages.  Long  before  the 
existence  of  Lakes  Nyasa  and  Tanganyika 
were  known  to  Europe,  Mr.  Koelle,  of  Sierra 
Leone,  was  writing  down  the  vocabularies 
and  languages  spoken  on  the  shores  of  those 
lakes,  gathered  from  slaves  that  had  come 
from  Mozambique  and  Quelimane. 

In  between  Mozambique  and  Quelimane 
the  Arabs  still  retain  to  this  day  a  hold  on 
certain  little-known  ports,  such  as  Angoche 
and  Moma.  From  these  points  slaves  from  Eastern  Nyasaland  were  shipped 
to  Madagascar,  which  until  its  recent  conquest  by  the  French  was  another 
profitable  market  for  slaves.  In  addition,  the  Matabele  Zulus,  who  had  surged 
back  into  South-Central  Africa  from  Zululand  at  the  beginning  of  this  century 
raided  across  the  Zambezi  for  slaves,  and  slave-raiding  was  also  carried  on  by 
the  Basuto  who.,  under  the  name  of  the  Makololo,  conquered  the  Barutse 
kingdom.  From  the  middle  of  the  i8th  to  near  the  end  of  the  19th  century 
British  Central  Africa  has  been  devastated  by  the  slave  trade.  Whole  tribes 
have  been  cut  up  and  scattered  ;  vast  districts  depopulated  ;  arts  and  crafts 
and  useful  customs  have  been  forgotten  in  the  flight  before  the  slave -raiders. 
The  whole  country  was  kept  in  a  state  of  incessant  turmoil  by  the  attempt 
to  supply  the  slave  markets  of  the  Zambezi,  of  Madagascar,  of  the  United 
States,  of  Zanzibar,  Arabia,  Persia,  and  Turkey. 

A  great  blow  was  dealt  to  this  trade  by  the  conclusion  of  the  American 
Civil  War  and  the  abolition  of  slavery.  This  and  the  Emancipation  of  Slaves 
first  in  the  West  Indies  and  subsequently  in  Brazil,  brought  the  West  African 

^  I  have  attempted  also  to  give  descriptions  hase<l  on  a  good  deal  of  personal  observation  as  well  as 
on  much  reading  in  my  book.  The  History  of  a  Slave. 


A  SVVAHILI   SLAVE-TRADER 


THE   SLAVE   TRADE 


157 


slave  trade  to  a  close  and  largely  diminished  the  source  of  profit  in  the 
South -East  African  slave  trade;  for  American  ships  came  no  longer  to  the 
Mozambique  coast  to  take  away  cargoes  of  slaves  and  to  evade  the  British 
cruisers.  Then  the  Portuguese  awoke  to  a  sense  of  duty  and  a  series  of  edicts 
made  slavery  very  difficult  and  the  slave  trade  practically  impossible  in  all  the 
settled  portions  of  Portuguese  East  Africa.     But  the  Eastern  market  always 


ARAB  AND   SWAHILI   SLAVE-TRADERS,   CAI'TURKD   BY   THE   B.C.A.    FORCES 

remained  open  and  the  Arabs  carried  their  slaving  enterprise  farther  and 
farther  into  the  heart  of  British  Central  Africa.  They  had  enlisted  on  their 
side  powerful  tribes  like  the  Wa-yao,  the  VVa-nyamwezi,  the  Awemba,  and  the 
Angoni  Zulus.  Dr.  Livingstone,  however,  appeared  on  the  scene  and  his  appeals 
to  the  British  public  gradually  drew  our  attention  to  the  slave  trade  in  Eastern 
Central  Africa  until,  as  the  direct  result  of  Livingstone's  work,  slavery  and  the 
slave  trade  are  now  at  an  end  within  the  British  Central  Africa  Protectorate, 
and    are    fast   disappearing    in    the    regions    beyond    under   the    South    Africa 


158 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


Company ;  and  the  abolition  of  slavery  at  Zanzibar  will  shortly  be  decreed  as 

a  final  triumph  to  Livingstone's  appeal. 

The  attitude  of  our  Administration  in  British  Central  Africa,  towards  the 
status  of  slavery  has  been  this  :  we  have  never  recognised 
it,  but  where  slavery  existed  without  its  being  forced  on 
our  notice  through  an  attempt  to  carry  on  the  slave  trade, 
or  through  unkindness  to  the  slaves,  we  have  not  actually 
interfered  to  abolish  the  status.  But  if  ever  a  slave  has 
run  away  from  a  district  not  administered  by  us  to  a  more 
settled  portion  of  the  Protectorate,  we  have  always  refused 
to  surrender  him.  If  the  slave  was  a  female  and  it  could 
be  shown  that  she  was  a  wife  or  concubine  of  the  man  who 
owned  her  or  that  he  had  inflicted  no  unkindness  she  was 
usually  given  back  upon  a  promise  of  immunity  from 
punishment.  When  a  district  from  various  causes  has 
come  under  our  our  immediate  administration  we  have 
always  informed  the  slaves  that  they  were  not  slaves  and 
that  they  were  free  to  go  and  do  what  they  pleased  as  long 
as  they  did  not  break  the  law.  But  it  has  rarely  happened 
that  the  slaves  of  a  chief  who  were  well  treated  have  chosen 
to  quit  their  masters ;  therefore,  being  free  to  do  as  they 
liked,  if  they  chose  to  remain  and  work  as  slaves  nobody 
interfered  to  prevent  their  doing  so.  The  slave  trade — still 
more  slave-raiding — has  always  been  punished,  and  it  may 
be  safely  stated  that  such  a  thing  does  not  now  exist  in  the 
Protectorate,  though  it  is  still  carried  on  in  such  districts  as 
are  not  wholly  under  the  control  of  the  British  South 
■^  ^H  ^Hl      Africa  Company ;  while  Mpezeni  alone  among  the  uncon- 

'  ■  ^^  ^™i  quered  Angoni  chiefs  raids  the  countries  round  his  settle- 
ments and  apparently  adds  his  slaves  to  the  population  of 
his  kingdom,  or  sells  them  to  the  Arabs  on  the  Luangwa. 

The  hardships  of  the  slave  trade  were  these : — Homes 
were  broken  up,  a  large  number  of  men,  women  and  little 
children  were  collected  together  and  dispatched  on  a  many- 
hundred-mile  journey  overland  to  the  coast,  on  which  they 
often  had  to  carry  heavy  burdens  Their  slave-sticks  ^  were 
(MNYAMWEzi)  "^  '^^^^  Weight,  attd  they  were  ill-fed  and  provided  with  no 

siave-raider  employed  by  Arabs  clothing  to  shicld  them  from  the  cold  or  wet  in  mountainous 
regions.     If  they  lagged  by  the  way  or  lay  down,  worn 

out  with  exhaustion,  their  throats  were  cut  or  they  were  shot.     Otten  before 

reaching   the   coast   the  Arabs   would   stop  at  some  settlement  and  roughly 

castrate  a  number  of  the  young  boys  so  that  they  might  be  sold  as  eunuchs. 

Some  died  straightway  from  the  operation,  others  lingered  a  little  longer  and 

^  The  slave-stick  in  most  of  the  languages  of  East-Central  Africa  is  called  gori,  goli,  or  li-goli.  It 
consists  usually  of  a  young  tree  lopped  off  near  the  ground  and  again  cut  where  it  divides  into  two 
branches.  The  ends  of  these  two  branches  are  left  sufficiently  long  to  enclose  the  neck  of  the  slave. 
Their  ends  are  then  united  by  an  iron  pin  which  is  driven  through  a  hole  drilled  in  the  wood  and 
hammered  over  on  either  side. 

The  thick  end  of  the  gori-stick  is  usually  fastened  to  a  tree  at  night  time  when  the  caravan  is  resting, 
though  sometimes  it  is  merely  left  on  the  ground  as  the  weight  of  the  stick  would  make  escape  nearly 
impossible,  especially  as  stubborn  slaves  have  their  hands  tied  behind  the  back.  When  the  slaves  are 
engaged  in  any  work  the  end  of  the  gori-stick  is  sufficiently  supported  to  enable  them  to  bear  its  weight 
and  yet  perform  the  task. allotted  to  them.     Except  in  the  case  of  children,  on  whom  no  stick  b  placed, 


•RUGA-RUGA 


THE   SLAVE   TRADE  159. 

eventually  perished  from  hernia  induced  by  this  operation.  Those  who  survived 
usually  had  an  extremely  comfortable  and  prosperous  after-life  in  the  harem 
of  some  Turk,  Arab  or  Persian.  The  mortality  amongst  the  children  was 
terrible:  the  Arab  slave-drivers  do  not  appear  to  have  been  actuated  by  motives 
of  commercial  expediency  in  endeavouring  to  Ifind  as  many  live  and  healthy 
slaves  on  the  coast  as  possible.  They  seem  on  the  contrary  to  have  been 
inspired  by  something  more  like  devilish  cruelty  at  times  in  the  reckless  way 
in  which  they  would  expose  their  slaves  to  suffering  and  exhaustion,  and  then 
barbarously  kill  them.^ 

as  they  are  sure  to  follow  their  mothers  or  friends,  or  of  comely  young  women  who  are  the  temporary 
concubines  of  the  slave-drivers,  and  who,  with  the  facile  nature  of  the  negro,  rapidly  become  attached 
to  their  brutal  husbands — all  slaves  are  usually  loaded  with  this  terrible  weight.  Nevertheless  escape 
does  sometimes  take  place.  Most  slaves  must  of  necessity  have  their  hands  free  when  on  the  march, 
especially  if  they  are  to  support  the  weight  of  the  gori-stick.  They  then  often  manage  to  secrete  a  knife 
or  razor,  or  some  sharp  substance  ^nth  which  during  the  night  they  will  attempt  to  saw  through  one 
of  the  branches  of  the  stick  round  the  neck.  They  are  then  able  to  twist  the  iron  pin  round  and  release 
their  necks  from  the  burden.  To  escape  in  a  strange  country  is  impossible,  and  the  attempt  is  invariably 
followed  by  a  return  to  slavery  in  some  shape  or  form.  As  a  rule  when  the  journey  to  the  coast  is  half 
done  the  slaves  are  sufficiently  to  be  depended  upon  for  docility  to  be  able  to  travel  without  the  slave- 
stick. 

*  Much  of  my  information  about  slavery  was  derived  from  an  interesting  man,  several  years  in  my 
service,  who  was  originally  a  native  of  the  east  coast  of  Lake  Nyasa,  and  had  been  sent  as  a  slave  to  the 
coast  with  an  Arab  caravan  when  he  was  about  twelve  years  old.  The  slaves  whom  he  accompanied 
were  captured  by  a  British  cruiser.  This  boy  was  taken  to  21anzibar  and  set  free,  was  educated  at  the 
Universities  Mission,  and  became  the  servant  of  a  succession  of  Admirals  on  the  East  Coast  Station, 
ending  up  with  Admiral  Hewett ;  after  whose  death  he  passed  into  my  service,  and  was,  until  his  recent 
death,  the  principal  servant  at  the  Consulate  at  Mo9ambique. 


^ 


CHAPTER    VI. 
THE    EUROPEAN    SETTLERS 


AS   mentioned  in  a  preceding  chapter,  there  were  345   Europeans  at  the 
end  of  the  year  1 896  settled  in  the  eastern  part  of  British  Central  Africa, 
of  whom  about  thirty  were  non-British  subjects.     These  Europeans  are 
divisible  into  four  classes — officials,  missionaries,  planters  and  traders. 

The  missionaries  and  their  work  will  be  dealt  with  in  Chapter  VII.  The 
officials  have  been  referred  to  in  the  Appendix  to  a  preceding  chapter ;  there 
remain  therefore  the  planters  and  traders  to  be  now  considered. 

The  planters  come  from  very  much  the  same  class  which  furnishes  the  coffee 

planters  of  Ceylon,  India,  Fiji,  and  Tropical  America.     They  are  most  of  them 

decent  young  fellows  of  good   physique  and  good  education,  who,  possessed 

of  a  small  capital,  desire  to  embark  on  a  life  which  shall  combine  a  profitable 

investment  for  their  money,  with  no  great  need  for  elaborate  technical  education, 

and  an  open-air  life  in  a  wild  country  with  plenty  of  good  sport,  and   few  or 

none  of  the  restraints  of  civilisation.     One  of  our  planters  can  look  back  on 

something  like  twenty-two  years'  experience  of  British  Central  Africa,  another 

on  eighteen  years'  experience,  a  third   ten,  a    fourth  nine;    but  most  of  the 

men  did  not  arrive  in   the  country  before   1 890  or   189 1.     The  planters  now 

/^probably   number   nearly    100.      The   chie£_jJiin^  ^QWO    is_cpjfee;   but   tea 

j  has   been  started  on  two  estates  (on  one  of  which  it  has  been  growing  for 

}  about    six    years),   and    on    others    cinchona    and    ceara    rubber,    cotton    and 

1  tobacco  are  cultivated.     Some  planters  go  in  a  great  deal  for  cattle  keeping 

[and  breeding.^ 

^  ^  The  coffee  plant  was  originally  introduced  into  British  Central  Africa  by 
Mr.  Jonathan  Duncan,  a  horticulturist  in  th(?  nervire  of  the  Thnrrh  cfi  ^Sr^tland 
iMIssIbn,  but  the  idea  owes  its  inception  to  the  late  Mr.  John  Buchanan,  C.M.G., 
;who  was  at  the  time  also  in  the  service  of  the  Church  of  Scotland  Mission,^ 

^  During  the  jiast  two  or  three  years  the  use  of  cattle  by  the  European  settlers  in  the  Protectorate 
has  greatly  increased.  When  I  first  came  to  British  Central  Africa  in  1889  no  one  except  at  two  or  three 
mission  stations  and  at  the  African  Lakes  Company's  establishments  at  Mandala  and  at  Karonga  kept  any 
cattle.  A  few  native  chiefs  had  herds  of  20  or  30  beasts  hidden  away  in  the  mountains,  afraid  to  avow 
their  existence  in  case  they  should  be  raided  by  the  Angoni  or  the  Vao.  At  the  north  end  of  the  lake 
the  Wankonde  had  enormous  herds,  as  was  the  case  with  the  Angoni  in  the  west  of  the  Protectorate,  but 
no  one  came  forward  to  trade  in  cattle  and  distribute  oxen  among  the  Europeans  in  the  Shire  Highlands. 
All  this  is  now  changed.  Many  Europeans  have  been  up  into  the  Angoni  country,  and  certain  Adminis- 
tration officials  have  interested  themselves  in  the  introduction  of  cattle  into  the  Shire  province.  The 
price  of  milch  cows  now  stands  at  a  little  more  than  two  or  three  pounds  a  head,  while  oxen  may  fetch  as 
little  as  15/.  each.  The  cbicf  inducement  in  keeping  cattle  is  to  use  the  manure  for  the  coffee  plantations, 
but  of  course  the  supply  of  milk  and  buttet  is  a  valuable  adjunct  to  health. 

*  Which  he  joined  as  a  lay  mcnil>er  sijecially  in  charge  of  horticultural  work  in  1876. 

160 


^  THE   EUROPEAN    SETTLERS  i6i 

and  who  on  his  arrival  at  Blantyre   had   arranged   with   the  curator  of  the 
Botanical  Gardens  at  Edinburgh  for  the  sending  out  of  coffee  plants. 

Three  small  coffee  plants  of  the  Mocha  variety  (Coffcea  Arabica)  which 
were  leading  a  sickly  existence  at  Edinburgh  were  entrusted  to  Mr.  Duncan  to 
transport  to  Blantyre.  Two  of  these  plants  died  on  the  voyage,  the  third 
survived  and  was  planted  in  the  Blantyre  Mission  gardens,  where  until  quite 
recently  it  was  still  living.  Two  years  after  it  was  thus  replanted  it  bore  a 
crop  of  about  looo  beans  which  were  all  planted,  and  from  which  400  seedlings 
were  eventually  reared.  In  1883,  14 J  cwts.  of  coffee  was  gathered  from  these 
young  trees.  Mr.  Henry  Henderson  of  the  Blantyre  Mission  brought  out  a 
small  supply  of  Liberian  coffee  seed  in  1887  ;  but  this  variety  has  never  met 
with  much  success  in  British  Central  Africa,  as  it  will  not  grow  well  on  the 
hills,  though  it  answers  well  in  the  plains.  Moreover,  it  does  not  fetch  nearly 
such  good  prices  as  the  small  Mocha  bean.  Later  on  varieties  of  Jamaica 
coffee  were  introduced  by  the  Moir  Brothers  whilst  managers  of  the  African 


THE   CONSULATE,    BLANTYRE 

Lakes  Company  at  Mandala.  The  "  blue  mountain "  variety  of  Jamaica  has 
succeeded  very  well  in  the  Shire  Highlands,  and  to  a  less  extent  the  "  orange  " 
coffee  in  the  same  locality  has  prospered.  Still  the  bulk  of  the  coffee  trees 
now  existing  in  this  Protectorate  owe  their  origin  to  the  one  surviving  coffee 
plant  introduced  from  the  Edinburgh  Botanical  Gardens.  It  may  therefore 
be  said  without  much  exaggeration  that  it  is  Scotch  coffee  which  is  the  staple 
growth  of  British  Central  Africa. 

Owing    to    the    troubles    which    broke    out    in    the    Church   of    Scotland 
Mission   (briefly  referred   to   in  a   previous   chapter),   much   of  the   Society's^ 
work  in  connection  with  planting  was  suspended,  though  not  before  it  had  I 
introduced  coffee  into  the  Zomba  district  through  Mr.  Buchanan ;  but  when  ! 
Mr.    Buchanan   left  the   Mission  in    1880  he  determined  to  establish  himself! 
independently    as    a    coffee    planter.     For   years   he   and    his   brothers   (who  i 
eventually  joined    him)    struggled    on    with    a   very   limited    capital,   having 
almost  insuperable  difficulties  to  contend  with  in  the  shape  of  recalcitrant  chiefs, 
ill-health,  and  invasions  of  the  Angoni,  which  drove  away  all  their  native  labour. 
They  remained   however   without    any   rivals   in    the   field   until   Mr.   Eugene 
Sharrer,  a  British  subject  of  German  origin,  arrived  at  Blantyre  in  1889,  bought 
land    and    started    coffee    planting.     The    Lakes    Company   also   commenced 
II 


■^ 


162 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


planting  about  the  same  time,  but  the  shipments  of  the  Buchanan  Brothers  had 
already  established  the  fact  that  coffee  of  the  very  best  quality  could  be  grown 
in  British  Central  Africa.  Moreover,  the  labour  difficulty  was  being  gradually 
solved.  When  the  natives  around  the  infant  settlements  of  Blantyre  and 
Zomba  were  convinced  that  the  white  men  would  pay  fairly  for  their  labour, 
they  began  to  come  in  increasing  numbers  to  work  in  the  plantations,  and 
strangest  of  all,  the  warlike  Angoni  came  down  with  their  slaves,  not  to  raid 

and  ravage  as  before,  but  to  obtain 
employment  for  three  or  four  months 
in  the  year  in  the  coffee  plantations. 

The  total  amount  of  coffee  ex- 
ported from  this  Protectorate  in  1896 
was  320  tons.  This  coffee  was  sold 
in  London  at  prices  ranging  between 
99.?.  and  115.?.  per  cwt,  much  of  it 
fetching  prices  over  100  shillings. 
The  lowest  price  ever  fetched  by 
British  Central  Africa  coffee  was  86j". 
per  cwt. 

The  coffee  undoubtedly  varies 
according  to  the  amount  of  rainfall, 
the  fertility  of  the  soil,  and  the  manner 
in  which  it  is  plucked,  pulped,  dried 
and  packed.  Manure  and  shade ^  seem 
to  be  absolutely  necessary  to  complete 
success.  Artificial  manures  are  now 
being  imported,  and  as  already  stated 
cattle  are  kept  in  increasing  quantities 
so  that  their  dung  may  be  used  for 
the  coffee  plantations,  and  guano 
has  recently  been  discovered  on  the 
islands  of  Lake  Nyasa,  which  will 
prove  very  useful.  It  is  also  necessary 
that  the  plantations  shall  be  scru- 
pulously weeded.  When  the  soil  is 
fertile,  and  all  these  conditions  of  manure,  shade  and  weeding  have  been  fulfilled, 
a  yield  of  as  much  as  17  cwt.  per  acre  has  been  taken.  On  the  other  hand,  in 
much  neglected  gardens  no  more  than  50  or  60  lbs.  per  acre  has  been  realised. 
The  average  yield  in  the  plantations  is  3^  cwt.  per  acre,  though  it  is  the  opinion 
of  experts  that  this  yield  would  be  greatly  increased  if  more  care  was  shown 
in  the  cultivation  of  the  coffee. 

In  some  years  of  poor  rainfall  or  where  the  first  rains  have  fallen  early, 
and  have  brought  coffee  prematurely  into  blossom  leaving  the  newly-formed 
seed  to  suffer  from  the  subsequent  drought,  the  berry  grows  diseased  or  the 
husk  is  found  to  be  empty  with  no  kernels  at  all  inside.  Some  people  are  of 
opinion  that  this  empty  husk  or  diseased  berry  is  caused  by  the  presence 
of  a   small    beetle.     Others   assert  that  it  is  the  result  of  a  plague  of  green 

*  To  attain  this  end,  I  believe,  in  new  plantations  for  every  two  coffee  shrubs  inserted  in  the  ground 
one  African  fig  tree  is  planted.  Thtse  splendid  wild  fig  trees  grow  to  a  great  height  and  give  al)solute 
shade.  They  also  serve  to  protect  the  coffee  trees  from  being  wind  blown  or  seared  by  the  hot  air  coming 
off  the  plains  in  the  dry  season. 


A   COFFEE  TREE   IN    BEARING 


THE   EUROPEAN   SETTLERS 


163 


bugs  which  suck  the  sap  of  the  cofifee  tree.     All  are  agreed,  however,  that 
the  only  preventative  of  the  defective  berry  \^  plenty  of  shade  and  manure. 

A  system  of  "topping"^  has  now  been  almost  universally  adopted,  though 
perhaps  not  to  the  same  extent  to  which  it  is  carried  on  in  Ceylon  and  India, 
for  it  is  difficult  to  train  immediately  a  sufficient  staff  of  natives  who  will  handle 
and  prune  the  coffee  in  a  proper  manner ;  and  careless  topping  does  more  harm 
than  good.  The  effect  of  the  soil  of  this  Protectorate  on  the  coffee  shrub 
is  apparently  to  bring  it  into  bearing  at  three  years  of  age  or  under,  and  to 
cause  it  in  its  second  crop  to  exhaust  its  vitality,  if  it  be  not  previously  pruned. 
Left  to  itself  the  coffee  shrub  in  this  main  or  second  crop  would  give  an 
enormous  yield  from  the  primary  shoots  and  as  a  result  of  this  exhaustion 
no  secondary  branches  would  be  developed  from  which  the  next  year's  crop 
would  come;  consequently  instead  of  bearing  year  after  year  for  something 
like  fourteen  years  the  coffee  shrubs  would  be  useless  when  four  or  five  years 
old.  The  coffee  tree  generally  blossoms  during  the  dry  season  in  the  months 
of  September  and  October,  especially  if  a  few  showers  of  rain  fall,  as  they 
often  do  at  this  time  of  the  year.  The  berries  are  usually  ripe  and  ready  for 
picking  at  the  end  of  June. 

In  my  report  to  the  Foreign  Office  on  the  trade  of  British  Central  Africa 
during  1895  and  1896  I  have  estimated  that  a  planter  requires  a  capital  of 
about  ;^iooo  for  the  upkeep  and  bringing  into  bearing  of  100  acres  of  coffee. 
This  sum  should  purchase  an  estate  of  say  500  acres  and  provide  for  the  cost  of 
clearing  it,  obtaining  coffee  seedlings  and  planting  them,  and  building  a  fairly 
comfortable  house,  and  of  meeting  the  expense  of  the  planter's  living  on  a 
moderate  scale  during  the  three  years.  It  would  not,  however,  provide  for  the 
erection  of.  a  substantial  brick  house, 
nor  of  the  pulping  vats,  and  special 
machinery  for  pulping.  With  this  he 
would  have  gradually  to  supply  himself 
out  of  the  profits  his  plantation  would 
make  after  the  first  three  years.  Per- 
haps it  may  enable  my  readers  to 
obtain  a  clear  idea  of  the  average 
experience  of  a  young  coffee  planter ; 
what  difficulties  he  has  to  face  ;  what 
are  the  chances  of  success — what  in 
fact  any  reader  of  my  book  who 
intends  to  become  a  coffee  planter 
in  British  Central  Africa  would  have 
to  undergo — if  I  give  here  extracts 
from  the  imaginary  letters  of  a  typical 
planter,  so  far  as  my  imagination  will 
enable  me  to  enter  into  the  mind  of  A,  B,  C,  or  D,  and  reveal  their  thoughts 
and  the  impressions  which  are  made  on  them  by  what  they  see  and  feel. 

"Balbrochan,  Ayrshire,  Scotland. 

"  Dear  Fred, — As  I  have  failed  in  my  last  chance  for  the  army,  the  governor  has 

decided  that  I  am  to  go  coffee  planting  somewhere  in  Central  Africa.     He  has  heard  all 

about  it  from  old  Major  McClear,  who  it  appears  has  gone  out  there  with  his  son  (he  is 

a  widower  you  know)  and  is  going  to  supplement  his  pension  by  making  money  out  of 

*  "Topping'*  means  cutting  about  four  inches  off  the  top  of  the  tree,  so  as  to  throw  it  back  and 
cause  the  secondary  branches  to  develop  and  come  into  bearing. 


a  planter  s  temporary  house 


164 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


coffee.  Vou  see,  as  I  have  failed  finally  to  pass  my  exams  for  the  army,  I  must  not  be 
too  particular,  as  there  are  younger  brothers  and  sisters  to  be  educated  and  put  out 
in  the  world,  and  my  father  is  not  over  well  off;  besides,  I  hear  there  is  capital  sport, 
and  the  climate  is  not  so  bad  though  one  gets  a  touch  of  fever  every  now  and  then. 
The  governor  can  only  afford  ;^iooo  to  start  me,  and  I  am  going  to  do  my  best 
not  to  cost  him  another  penny  before  I  am  self-supporting.  ...  I  think  the  country 
is  called  the  British  Central  Africa  Protectorate;  it  is  close  to  Lake  Nyasa,  and  is 
about  300  or  400  miles  inland  from  the  east  coast.  I  am  getting  my  equipment  ready, 
and  shall  leave  on  the  i  st  of  May  by  the  Edinburgh  Castle  for  Durban,  where  I  change 
into  the  "  Rennie  "  boat  Induna,  and  so  travel  up  the  east  coast  to  a  place  called  Chinde 
which  is  at  the  mouth  of  the  Zambezi.  Here  I  change  into  the  river  steamer,  and 
travel  up  the  Zambezi  and  the  Shire,  and  so  on  to  Blantyre  where  I  shall  stay  with 
the  McClears  and  look  about  me.  ...  As  to  equipment,^  I  am  not  taking  very  much 
as  I  am  told  that  most  things  can  be  got  fairly  good  and  cheap  out  there,  and  it  saves 
one  the  bother  of  a  lot  of  luggage,  and  the  risk  of  loading  yourself  with  things  that  you 
don't  want.  I  shall  simply  take  along  with  me  all  my  old  clothes  and  a  dress-suit  in  case 
there  is  any  *  society.*  Of  course  I  am  taking  guns— a  doubled-barrelled  12-bore  shot 
gun,  and  an  express  rifle.  I  have  been  strongly  advised  not  to  take  a  helmet,  as 
it  is  said  to  be  a  ridiculous  kind  of  headgear  for  Central  Africa,  where  one  requires 
something  like  a  light  Terai  hat,  and  where  it  appears  you  should  always  carry  a  white 
cotton  umbrella  when  the  sun  shines.  The  helmet  is  cumbersome  and  ugly  and  does 
not  shield  the  body  from  the  sun.  It  seems  from  what  I  can  gather  that  a  chap  gets  far 
sicker  from  the  effect  of  the  sun  on  his  body  than  on  his  head,  and  that  the  best  way 
to  avoid,  sun  fever  and  sunstroke  Is  to  carry  an  umbrella  wherever  one  goes.  I  shall 
take  a  good  saddle  with  me  and  riding  gear,  as  most  of  the  people  in  the  Shire 
Highlands  (the  name  of  the  coffee  district)  ride  about  on  ponies.  I  think  as  I  pass 
through  Durban  I  shall  invest  in  a  Basuto  pony  (they  are  said  to  be  the  best  for  the 
purpose)  and  take  him  along  with  me  up  to  Blantyre.  I  hear  they  are  very  cheap 
at  Durban,  about  £,%  will  buy  a  good  one,  and  it  only  comes  altogether  to  about  ^25  or 
^26  to  convey  the  little  beast  up  river  to  a  place  called  Katunga,  and  there  you  get  on 
his  back  and  ride  up  to  Blantyre.  I  shall  also  take  out  my  bicycle  as  some  of  the  roads 
are  fit  for  cycling.  Nearly  everything  else  can  be  got  on  the  spot,  but  my  mother 
insists  on  giving  me  a  small  medicine  chest,  so  that  I  can  dose  myself  with  quinine  and 
other  things  if  there  is  no  doctor  handy.  I  shall  also  take  out  a  small  photographic 
camera  and  plenty  of  books. 

"  And  now  good-bye  for  a  bit  in  case  I  don't  see  you  again,  but  as  soon  as  I  get  out 
there  I  will  write  and  let  you  know  what  it  is  like." 

**Chiromo,  British  Central  Africa, /i/w^  12M. 

"Dear  Fred, — I  am  now  in  British  Central  Africa,  and  before  I  get  any  further  into 
the  country  as  I  have  a  day  or  two  to  spare  here  I  will  give  you  an  account  of  what  my 
journey  was  like. 

"I  managed  to  get  my  pony  all  right  in  Durban  through  Messrs.  and  , 

who  seem  to  be  universal  providers  in  that  city.  I  had  to  give  ;^9  for  him  but  he  is  an 
extra  good  little  beast.  We  changed  into  the  InduTui  at  this  place.  She  was  very 
crowded  and  therefore  not  very  comfortable,  but  the  journey  to  (Chinde  only  occupied 
^y^  days  as  we  ran  through  direct. 

"  Chinde,  you  know,  is  one  of  the  mouths  of  the  Zambezi,  and  the  only  one  which  has 
a  bar  that  can  be  crossed  without  risk  by  a  well-navigated  steamer.  The  Induna  crossed 
the  bar  all  right  and  landed  us  on  the  British  Concession,  a  piece  of  land  which  was 
granted  by  the  Portuguese  Government  for  the  use  of  the  British  Central  Africa 
Protectorate  so  that   goods   can    be  transhipped  here  from  the   ocean-going   steamers 

J  vide  Appendix  XL,  p.  185.— H.  H.  J. 


THE   EUROPEAN    SETTLERS 


165 


into  the  river  boats.  I  did  not  stay  on  the  Concession,  however,  but  on  a  place 
called  the  Extra  Concession  which  has  no  privileges  regarding  exemptions  from  Customs 

dues      I  put  up  at  an  hotel  which  is  run  by .     Of  course  everything  seems  very 

rough  to  me  who  have  never  been  farther  away  than  Switzerland  before,  but  fellows 
here  tell  me  that  Chinde  is  simply  luxurious  to  what  it  was  a  few  years  ago.  In 
1890  it  was  practically  unknown  to  Europeans,  and  there  was  not  even  a  hut  on  the 
present  sandspit,  which  is  the  site  of  the  town — everything  was  covered  with  thick 
bush ;  now,  although  the  place  is  horribly  ugly,  being  built  almost  entirely  of  corrugated 

iron,  it  is  fairly  neat  and  clean.     Most  of  the  houses  are  of  one  story,  but 's  hotel 

is  not  half  a  bad  place,  a  sort  of  bungalow  built  of  iron  and  wood  with  broad  shady 
verandahs.  The  food  is  anything  but  good,  however,  as  fresh  provisions  are  scarce  and 
most  of  the  things  we  eat  come  out  of  tins. 

**  Chinde  is  a  great  peninsula  of  sand  intersected  with  marshy  tracts,  which  projects 
into  the  Indian  Ocean,  having  the  sea  on  one  side  and  the  Chinde  mouth  of  the  Zambezi 
on  the  other. 


"Two  days  after  our  arrival  at  Chinde  we  started  in  the  Lakes  Company's  steamer,  the 
James  Stevenson^  which  conveyed  us  up  river  as  far  as  Chiromo.  After  leaving  Chinde 
we  pursued  a  tortuous  course  up  the  Chinde  River  till  we  got  into  the  main  Zambezi. 
Here  the  country  was  very  uninteresting.  The  Zambezi  is  extremely  broad  and  you  are 
never  sure  whether  you  are  looking  at  the  opposite  bank  or  a  chain  of  long  flat  islands. 
Islands  and  shore  are  equally  covered  at  this  season  of  the  year  by  grass  of  tremendous 
height,  and  except  an  occasional  fan-palm  you  see  nothing  behind  the  grass.  Hippos 
are  very  scarce  and  shy  now  owing  to  the  way  they  have  been  shot  at.  Occasionally 
however  you  see  little  black  dots  at  a  distance,  and  if  you  are  looking  through  glasses  you 
can  distinguish  a  hippo  raising  his  head  and  stretching  his  jaws,  but  they  always  duck 
when  the  steamer  gets  anywhere  near.  At  the  end  of  our  second  day  we  got  to  a  place 
called  Vicenti,  a  sort  of  Portuguese  station.  A  little  while  before  we  got  there  we 
began  to  see  something  more  interesting  than  the  grass  banks — the  outline  of  a  blue 
mountain  called  Morambala,  which  overlooks  the  Shire  River.  Morambala  is  the 
only  hill  to  be  seen  for  miles  farther  on  beyond  Vicenti.  You  hardly  notice  where  you 
get  into  the  River  Shire,  as  the  country  seems  to  have  become  quite  demoralised  at  the 
junction  of  the  Shire  with  the  Zambezi  by 

the  intersection  of  innumerable  channels       y^^  ^T'^ 

of  water  and  swamps.  Morambala  looks  ^^^ 
a  splendid  mountain,  however  (about  4,000 
feet  high),  as  it  rises  up  above  the  foetid 
Morambala  marsh.  Beyond  Morambala 
the  banks  are  dotted  with  innumerable 
tall  palms  which  I  could  not  help  thinking 
very  picturesque  with  their  lofty  whitish- 
grey  stems,  and  their  crowns  of  elegantly- 
shaped  blue-green  fronds. 

*  ♦  *  •» 

MT.    MORAMBALA,    FROM   THE   RIVER   SHIRE 

"The  first  place  we  stopped  at  in 
British  territory  was  Port  Herald  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Shire,  a  pretty  little  settlement 
with  very  rich  vegetation.  The  steamer  had  to  stop  here  for  a  day  for  some  reason 
or  other  so  I  and  two  of  my  fellow  passengers  went  out  for  a  shoot.  The  Administration 
official  at  the  station  lent  us  a  guide,  and  we  had  awfully  good  sport,  coming  back 
with  a  large  male  waterbuck, — a  beast  as  big  as  a  red  deer — and  two  reedbuck  which 
are  somewhat  the  size  of  a  roe  and  very  good  eating  The  meat  of  the  waterbuck  is  no 
good,  so  we  gave  it  to  the  natives ;  but  as  I  had  shot  the  beast  1  kept  the  horns  which 
are  very  fine  though  not  at  all  like  a  stag's,  being  quite  simple  without  branches  and 


1 66  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

with  an  elegant  curve  and  ever  so  many  rings.  Jones,  one  of  my  fellow  passengers,  saw 
a  lion  whilst  we  were  out  shooting  on  this  occasion,  but  was  in  too  much  of  a  funk  to 
fire,  so  the  beast  got  away.     He  says  his  cartridge  jammed !  but  I  don't  believe  him. 

"  Chiromo  is  an  awfully  pretty  little  place.  The  roads  are  broad  and  bordered  with 
fine  shady  trees  planted  close  together.  Some  of  the  buildings  are  quite  smart,  though 
of  course  at  home  we  should  think  them  small. 

"  Up  to  the  present  the  climate  has  been  lovely  and  I  have  not  had  a  touch  of  fever. 
It  is  quite  cool  at  nights  and  one  seldom  gets  mosquitos,  but  I  am  told  that  in  the  rainy 
season  they  are  an  awful  pest.  In  the  middle  of  the  day  it  is  about  as  hot  as  a  summer*s 
day  at  home,  but  not  too  hot  to  walk  about  with  or  without  an  umbrella.  This  is  the 
beginning  of  the  cool  season  of  the  year." 

"  Blantyre,  June  ^oih. 

"I  got  up  to  Blantyre  on  June  i8th.  The  small  steamer  of  the  Lakes  Company 
took  us  on  from  Chiromo  to  Katunga,  up  the  Shire.  You  cannot  go  beyond  Katunga 
by  water,  or  at  least  much  beyond,  because  of  the  rapids  and  falls.  The  Steamer 
Company  arranged  about  the  transport  of  my  baggage  and  I  simply  saddled  my  pony, 
which  was  in  capital  condition,  and  rode  him  gently  up  to  Blantyre.  The  distance 
is  about  25  miles.  I  had  sent  a  telegram  from  Katunga  to  say  I  was  coming  and  old 
McClear  rode  out  and  met  me  half-way.  His  plantation  is  not  in  Blantyre  but  about 
seven  miles  out.  However,  we  slept  that  night  at  an  hotel  in  Blantyre  and  went  on  to 
his  plantation  the  next  morning.  The  country  is  awfully  pretty — very  thickly  wooded 
in  parts  and  with  hills  and  mountains  of  bold  outline.  Water  seems  to  be  most 
abundant ;  every  few  miles  you  cross  a  running  stream  or  rivulet.  As  far  as  climate  goes 
you  might  think  yourself  back  in  England,  anywhere  near  Blantyre,  at  this  season  of  the 
year.     All  the  houses  are  built  of  brick  and  every  room,  nearly,  has  a  fireplace. 

**  It  is  very  jolly  at  night  to  sit  round  a  huge  log  fire  and  enjoy  it,  with  the  tempera- 
ture outside  almost  down  to  freezing  point.  In  fact  some  mornings  there  is  a  white  rime 
on  the  ground  when  you  first  go  out. 

"  I  have  almost  settled  on  buying  a  piece  of  land  adjoining  McClear's  plantation. 
It  belongs  to  the  Crow^n  and  I  shall  have  to  take  these  steps  to  buy  it:— First  of  all 
I  have  to  get  one  of  the  surveyors  here  to  go  over  the  land  with  me  and  make  a  rough 
plan  of  the  boundaries  so  that  we  can  get  at  some  idea  of  the  area  and  furnish  the 
Commissioner's  OflSce  with  sufficient  information  to  enable  the  officials  to  decide  where 
the  land  is  and  whether  it  can  be  sold.  With  these  particulars  I  send  a  fee  of  ;^2, 
which  includes  the  surveyor's  fees  and  the  cost  of  inserting  an  announcement  in  the 
Gazette,  If  the  Commissioner  decides  to  sell  the  land  he  will  put  a  notice  to  that  effect 
in  the  Gazette  and  an  upset-price  will  be  fixed  (probably  5^.  an  acre)  and  notice  will  be 
given  that  the  estate  will  be  sold  by  public  auction  a  fortnight  after  the  announcement 
appears.  The  sale  will  take  place  at  the  Court  House  in  Blantyre.  I  shall  have  to 
go  there  and  if  nobody  bids  against  me  I  shall  get  the  estate  knocked  down  to  nie 
at  the  upset-price. 

"  Blantyre,  August  ist, 

"  I  have  bought  my  land — nobody  bid  against  me— but  I  have  had  my  first  attack 
of  fever.  Perhaps  it  is  just  as  well  to  get  it  over,  as  they  say  you  have  it  all  the  worse 
if  it  is  bottled  up  in  your  system.  I  think  mine  must  have  come  on  from  a  chill.  I  had 
played  in  a  tremendous  cricket  match  got  up  at  Blantyre,  "The  Administration  v. 
Planters,''  and  after  getting  very  hot  went  and  sat  about  in  the  cool  breeze,  which 
is  about  the  most  fatal  thing  you  can  do.  The  next  day  after  breakfast  I  began  to  feel 
a  bit  cheap — very  shivery  and  a  horrid  pain  in  the  back,  and  rather  a  sensation  as  though 


THE   EUROPEAN    SETTLERS 


167 


I  was  going  to  have  a  tremendous  cold.  I  am  staying  at  Major  McClears  and  he  told 
me  at  once  I  was  in  for  a  dose  of  fever,  made  me  go  to  bed,  gave  me  a  purge  and  put 
hot  water  bottles  at  my  feet.  Then  I  began  to  get  awfully  hot  — my  temperature  went  up 
to  102  degrees — and  after  that  came  a  sweat  which  soaked  all  the  bed  clothes,  and  then 
I  felt  a  bit  better  and  wanted  to  get  up  but  they  advised  me  to  stay  in  bed.  I  seemed 
all  right  the  next  morning  except  that  my  ears  were  singing,  but  towards  evening  again 
I  felt  beastly  bad.  I  went  to  bed  and  vomited  ever  so  many  times,  and  thought  I  was 
going  to  die.  A  doctor  came  to  see  me  and  found  my  temperature  103  degrees;  he 
brought  it  down  with  a  dose  of  phenacitine.  Eventually  I  got  to  sleep  and  woke  up 
much  better,  but  I  was  down  again  the  third  day  though  not  so  bad.     After  that  I  felt 


sharker's  store  at  katunga 

very  weak  and  looked  very  yellow  for  a  day  or  two,  and  then  my  appetite  came  back  and 
now  I  am  just  as  fit  as  it  is  possible  to  be— a  tremendous  appetite  and  think  the  country 
is  the  finest  in  the  world  though  I  can  tell  you  whilst  I  had  the  fever  on  me  I  made  an 
awful  ass  of  myself,  telling  them  all  I  was  going  to  die  and  sending  all  sorts  of  messages 
to  my  people!  I  hear  everybody  does  that  when  he  has  fever  and  no  one  seems 
inclined  to  make  fun  of  you  on  that  account. 

"Well :  I  have  bought  my  land— 500  acres  at  5 J.  makes  ;^i25.  I  shall  have  to  pay 
the  Stamp  Duties  and  eventually  the  cost  of  a  survey.  All  this  will  come  to  about 
another  ^20— say  in  all  ;£i5o.  I  have  arranged  to  live  with  old  McClear  (it  is  awfully 
kind  of  him  to  propose  it)  and  learn  the  business  whilst  my  own  estate  is  being  got 
ready.  He  will  give  me  a  room  and  my  board,  and  during  all  the  time  that  I  can  spare 
off  my  own  land  I  am  to  help  him  and  his  son  on  their  estate ;  this  of  course  will  teach 
me  something  about  coffee  planting. 

"Blantyre  is  not  half  a  bad  place  but  it  seems  to  me  a  good  deal  of  hard  drinking 


1 68  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

goes  on  there.  S medley,  the  Missionary  doctor,  says  a  white  man  ought  not  to  touch 
alcohol  in  Africa  except  when  it  is  given  to  him  as  a  medicine.  That  is  all  very  well  but 
I  can't  see  that  a  little  lager  beer  does  much  harm,  or  a  glass  of  good  claret ;  and  as  the 
drinking  water  at  Blantyre  is  not  first  rate  and  one  can't  always  be  swilling  tea  the  entire 
teetotal  plan  does  not  suit  me ;  at  the  same  time  I  am  willing  to  admit  that  a  deal  too 
much  whisky  is  consumed  here.  Somehow  or  other  most  of  the  chaps  who  come  out 
here  to  plant  seem  to  get  into  the  way  of  it.  Perhaps  I  shall  do  the  same.  I  must  say 
on  these  very  cold  nights  before  one  turns  in,  whilst  you  are  sitting  round  the  pleasant 
log  fire  a  glass  of  hot  whisky  and  water  is  very  tempting  and  surely  can't  be  harmful  ? 
The  Doctor  says  it  is,  under  all  circumstances,  and  that  all  spirits  have  a  most  prejudicial 
effect  on  the  liver  in  Central  Africa. 

♦  ♦♦♦♦♦♦♦ 

"  Pazulu,  September  lotk. 

**  This  is  the  name  of  old  Major  McClear's  plantation.  I  believe  it  means  *  up 
above.'  It  is  on  a  hill-side  looking  down  on  the  River  Lunzu  and  the  bush  is  being 
burnt  in  all  directions.  I  am  awfully  fit  and  have  been  very  busy  clearing  my  land 
of  bush.  This  is  how  I  have  had  to  set  about  it.  I  found  that  a  man  named  Carter 
had  just  come  down  from  the  Atonga  country  on  the  west  coast  of  Lake  Nyasa  with 
a  huge  gang  of  Atonga  labourers.  Some  of  the  chaps  do  this  every  now  and  then  when 
they  have  got  time  on  their  hands  —  go  up  the  west  coast  of  Nyasa  (where  they  get 
very  good  sport)  and  come  back  with  a  gang  of  men  for  work.  After  supplying  their 
own  plantations  they  pass  on  the  others  to  planters  and  traders  who  want  men.  All 
these  men  are  registered  at  the  Government  office,  either  in  the  country  they  come  from 
or  at  some  place  like  Blantyre.  You  have  to  engage  them  before  a  Government  official 
and  everything  is  written  down  fair  and  square — the  time  you  engage  them  for,  the 
amount  you  are  going  to  pay  them,  and  so  on.  Each  man  gets  a  copy  of  the  contract 
and  you  have  to  pay  a  shilling  for  the  stamp  on  it,  that  is  to  say  a  shilling  for  each 
labourer.  You  may  not  engage  them  for  more  than  a  year  even  if  you  want  to,  and 
if  they  want  to  stay.  Ordinarily  one  takes  them  for  six  months  and  you  have  to  give 
a  deposit  or  a  bond  to  provide  for  the  cost  of  their  return  passage  money  to  their  homes. 
If  a  man  runs  away  before  the  time  of  his  contract  is  completed  without  any  breach 
of  the  agreement  on  your  part  he  can  be  punished  and  you  can  proceed  against  him  for 
damages  up  to  a  certain  amount  if  he  refuse  to  complete  the  term  for  which  he  is 
engaged ;  of  course  you  have  a  further  hold  over  them  because  you  do  not  pay  them  the 
full  sum  for  their  services  till  their  time  is  up.  When  you  pay  them  off  you  have  to 
do  so  before  the  Government  officer  who  sees  that  what  you  give  them  is  that  which 
is  owing  to  them. 

"  I  have  got  a  gang  of  fifty  men  and  a  *  capitao.'  They  are  all  Atonga — a  cheery 
lot  though  rather  unruly  at  times  and  ready  to  knock  off  work  if  you  do  not  keep  a 
sharp  look  out.  The  head  man  of  any  gang  is  called  a  *  capitao  *  which  I  believe  is 
a  Portuguese  word — the  same  as  'captain.'  My  *  capitao*  when  he  is  at  work  wears 
precious  little  clothing,  but  on  Sundays  he  puts  on  a  long  coat  with  brass  buttons  and 
a  red  fez  which  he  has  bought  at  a  store  or  which  was  part  of  his  last  year's  payment. 
His  name  is  Moses.  Of  course  he  has  got  an  Atonga  name  of  his  own  but  the 
missionaries  in  this  country  will  give  them  all  Biblical  names  (which  I  think  is  awfully 
bad  taste,  but  the  Atonga  do  not  share  my  views  and  Mosesi,  as  he  calls  himself,  admires 
his  Bible  name  tremendously).  1  am  to  pay  these  men  three  shillings  a  month  each  and 
the  *  capitao '  five  shillings.  Besides  this  they  get  their  food  allowance  or  *  posho '  as 
it  is  somecimes  called.  This  I  generally  give  to  them  in  white  calico  (which  costs  me 
2j</.  a  yard).  I  give  my  men  four  yards  a  week  each  with  six  yards  for  the  *  capitao.' 
This  with  occasional  extras  brings  up  the  cost  of  their  food  to  2d,  a  day  with  a  little 
extra  for  the  head  man.  Some  of  the  other  traders  here  only  give  out  food  allowance 
at  the  rate  of  three  yards  a  week  per  man,  but  food  has  become  very  dear,  relatively 


THE   EUROPEAN    SETTLERS 


169 


speaking,  round  Blantyre;  and  if  our  labourers  do  not  receive  sufficient  food  cloth 
or  money  in  lieu  thereof  they  are  bound  to  steal  from  the  native  gardens  and  so  get  into 
trouble  I  wonder  some  of  the  planters  and  traders  here  do  not  see  that  it  is  far  and 
away  the  best  policy  to  treat  one's  labourers  generously  in  the  way  of  food.  There 
is  nothing  which  will  attach  the  negro  more  to  your  service  than  to  give  him  plenty 
to  eat  A  man  who  feeds  him  well  may  beat  him  as  much  as  he  pleases  in  moderation 
and  the  man  will  still  remain  attached  and  return  to  the  same  plantation  year  after  year ; 
besides  you  can  get  a  lot  more  work  out  of  the  men  if  they  are  well  nourished,  and 
really  I  assure  you  no  one  ever  did  such  credit  to  good  food  as  a  negro  whose  eyes 
are  bright  whose  skin  is  clear  and  whose  temper  is  sunny,  when  he  is  well  fed. 

"Talking  about  beating;  of  course  it  goes  on  to  some  extent  though  it  is  illegal 
in  the  eyes  of  the  Administration,  but  a  certain  amount 
of  discipline  must  be  kept  up  by  the  head  man  of  a 
gang  and  trifling  corrections  are  not  noticed  by  the 
authorities  provided  the  men  make  no  complaint ;  but 
in  old  days,  I  am  told,  before  there  was  any  Government 
here  the  amount  of  flogging  that  went  on  was  a  great 
deal  too  bad,  and  some  cases  were  downright  savage. 
The  instrument  used  is  a  *  chicote '  ^  —  a  long,  thin, 
rounded  strip  of  hippopotamus  hide  about  the  thickness 
of  a  finger  ....  stiff  but  slightly  pliant.  If  this  is 
applied  to  the  bare  skin  it  almost  invariably  breaks  it 
and  causes  bleeding.  For  my  part  I  am  jolly  careful 
not  to  get  into  trouble,  and  when  one  of  my  chaps  was 
caught  stealing  the  other  day  I  preferred  to  bring  him 
up  before  the  Police  Court  and  have  him  punished  there 
instead  of  taking  the  law  into  my  own  hands. 

"  The  first  part  of  the  estate  we  began  to  clear  was 
the  possible  site  for  a  house.  I  chose  this  on  a  little 
knoll  overlooking  the  Lunzu  and  about  fifty  feet  above 
the  bank  of  the  river  which  is  seventy  yards  distant.  1 
flattened  the  top  of  the  knoll  and  had  to  cut  down  one 
or  two  trees.  After  this  I  selected  the  site  of  my 
nurseries  and  resolved  to  thoroughly  clear,  in  addition,  a  *'capitao** 

about  ICO  acres  for  planting.     The  process  of  clearing 

is  now  going  on  briskly.  I  get  up  every  morning  at  six  and  walk  over  from  McClear's 
house  to  my  own  plantation  and  turn  out  my  Atonga  who  are  living  in  -fnisasa  (ram- 
shackle shelters  of  sticks  and  thatch  which  they  make  to  house  themselves).  Then  the 
men  turn  out  with  cutlasses  and  axes  and  set  to  work  cutting  down  the  terribly  rampant 
grass  and  herbage,  and  here  and  there  a  useless,  shadeless  tree  or  shrub.  I  am  carefully 
leaving  all  the  big  trees  for  the  shade  they  will  give  to  the  coffee ;  they  will  grow  all  the 
finer  for  the  clearing  of  the  growth  around  them. 

"All  the  bush  which  is  thus  cut  down  will  be  left  to  lie  in  the  sun  and  dry. 
Then  the  Atonga  will  pile  it  into  heaps  a  few  yards  distant  one  from  the  other  and 
set  fire  to  it,  and  when  it  is  burnt  to  ashes  they  will  spread  the  ashes  over  the  soil 
and  dig  it  in.  I  am  advised  to  get  native  women  of  the  district  to  do  this  for  me 
with  native  hoes.  The  women  here  work  exceedingly  hard — much  better  than  the 
men  — and  ask  less  pay.  A  little  while  later  on  they  will  be  beginning  to  prepare 
their  own  plantations  before  the  big  rains  so  it  is  as  well  to  get  them  now  if  1  can. 
For  chance  labour  hke  this,  for  any  term  less  than  a  month  and  within  their  own 
district  I  shan't  have  to  register  them." 

^  A  Portuguese  word. — H.  H.  J. 


ijo  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

"  Pazulu,  Novcffiber  20th, 

"  I  have  been  much  too  busy  to  write  any  letters  for  the  last  two  months — awfully  busy 
but  wonderfully  well  and  not  the  least  bit  dull.  When  I  had  cleared  my  ground  for  the 
plantation  I  had  it  lined  out  in  regular  rows  from  six  feet  to  seven  feet  apart,  and  at 
intervals  of  about  six  feet  along  these  rows  we  dug  pits  18  inches  wide  and  18  inches 
deep.  The  pits  were  left  open  for  some  six  weeks  *' to  weather,"  then  we  filled  them 
up  with  soil,  which  was  mixed  with  a  manure  made  of  cow-dung  and  wood  ashes.  After 
each  pit  had  been  filled  up  we  stuck  into  the  middle  of  it  a  bamboo  stick  (bamboos  grow 
in  abundance  along  the  stream  bank  and  on  the  hill-sides  and  are  very  useful)  to  mark 
the  place  where  the  coffee  plant  was  to  be  put  it.  I  made  arrangements  with  a  neigh- 
bouring planter  to  buy  sufficient  coffee  seedlings  of  a  year's  growth  to  plant  up  the 
50  acres  I  have  cleared.  Every  day  we  expect  the  rainy  season  to  begin  now — in  fact 
to-day  the  20th  November  is  the  date  on  which  the  big  rains  ordinarily  begin  near 
Blantyre  (we  had  occasional  showers  in  July  and  August  and  one  or  two  in  September, 
but  no  rain  at  all  in  October,  only  a  lot  of  thunder  and  lightning  and  an  occasional  dry 
tornado).  As  soon  as  the  rains  have  really  broken  I  shall  put  the  coffee  plants  in  these 
pits.  I  am  told  that  whilst  the  coffee  grows  the  weeds  grow  even  quicker,  and  that  the 
hardest  time  I  shall  have  with  my  own  men  will  be  during  December,  January  and 
February,  keeping  the  weeds  down.  If  we  are  not  incessantly  at  work  hoeing  in 
between  the  coffee  plants  they  will  be  smothered  by  the  growth  of  weeds. 

"  It  is  so  very  good  of  old  McClear  to  put  me  up  in  his  house  that  I  have  been 
doing  my  best  to  help  him  in  between  working  on  my  own  plantation.  He  gathered 
his  first  coffee  crop  this  year,  and  is  very  pleased  at  the  result.  The  berries  were 
picked  off  the  trees  (which  are  three  years  old)  at  the  end  of  June  and  the  beginning  of 
July,  and  all  this  was  over  before  I  arrived  on  the  scene ;  but  I  saw  the  berries  when  they 
were  be?hg  pulped  by  machinery.  By  this  process  the  sweet  fleshy  covering  of  the 
berries  is  taken  off  and  the  bean  is  disclosed  encased  in  its  parchment  skin.  You  know 
of  course  that  this  splits  into  two  seeds  when  you  take  off  the  dry  skin  and  it  is  merely 
these  seeds  which  you  see  when  the  coffee  reaches  you  at  home.  I  shall  not  get  a 
pulper  till  I  have  owned  my  plantation  for  about  four  years,  as  it  is  hardly  worth  while 
for  a  poor  man  to  have  a  maiden  crop  off  a  small  plantation  pulped  by  machinery. 

"  After  the  beans  are  pulped  they  are  passed  into  a  brick  vat  where  they  are  left  to 
ferment  for  between  24  and  36  hours.  Then  they  are  removed  to  a  second  vat  and 
thoroughly  washed  in  water.  Then  they  are  taken  out  and  dried  on  mats.  After  this 
they  are  further  dried  in  a  drying  house  and  constantly  turned  over  to  prevent  anything 
like  mould.  All  through  the  end  of  September  and  the  beginning  of  October  we  were 
busy  packing  the  coffee  in  stout  canvas  bags,  weighing  about  56  lbs.  each.  Each  bag 
was  numbered  and  marked  with  McClear's  initials  by  stencil  plates,  and  handed  over  to 
one  of  the  transport  companies  here  to  be  shipped  direct  to  London,  via  Chinde.  It 
will  of  course  be  carried  partly  on  men's  heads  and  partly  in  waggons  down  to  Katunga, 
and  then  they  will  send  it  down  river  to  Chinde.  It  is  to  be  hoped  they  w^ill  be 
careful  not  to  put  the  bags  into  a  leaky  boat  or  steamer,  because  if  they  are  wetted 
the  coffee  will  be  quite  spoiled.  The  cost  of  sending  this  coffee  from  Blantyre  to 
London  is  about  £,%  a  ton. 


"  Blantyre,  ya«i/flry  \st 

"In  spite  of  the  rainy  season  which  is  well  on  us,  we  have  spent  a  very  jolly 
Christmas  at  Blantyre.  Most  of  the  planters  from  Cholo  and  the  other  districts  round 
Blantyre  have  congregated  here  for  Christmas  week.  We  had  a  little  mild  horse-racing 
and  a  shooting  competition.  Like  most  of  the  other  Europeans  here  I  belong  to  the 
Shire  Highlands  Shooting  Club,  but  I  did  not  score  over  well  on  this  occasion,  because 
I  was  a  bit  off  colour,  having  had  another  little  touch  of  fever — caused  by  the  beginning 


THE   EUROPEAN    SETTLERS  171 

of  the  rainy  season  I  expect.  We  had  a  smoking  concert  in  the  Court  House  which 
was  lent  to  us  for  the  occasion,  and  the  missionaries  got  up  a  big  bazaar  in  aid  of  their 
school-house,  and  afterwards  a  lot  of  us  were  entertained  at  the  Manse  by  the  senior 
missionary  where  we  heard  some  really  good  music.  You  have  no  idea  what  a  pretty 
place  the  Manse  is.  It  is  rather  a  rambling  house  with  a  low  thatched  roof,  but  all  the 
rooms  open  on  to  the  verandahs  with  glass  doors  and  plenty  of  windows  so  that  they  are 
very  light  inside  though  shielded  from  the  sun. 


**  There  is  a  fairly  good  club  here  with  lots  of  newspapers.  1  belong  to  the  club  and 
get  a  bedroom  there  whenever  I  come  into  Blantyre.  I  cannot  say  I  think  much  of  the 
hotels.  Perhaps  when  more  Europeans  come  to  the  country  it  will  be  worth  while 
building  a  good  place  to  receive  them  where  a  check  will  be  set  on  the  unlimited 
consumption  of  whisky,  which  at  present  tends  to  a  good  deal  of  noise  and  brawling 
of  a  not  very  creditable  kind.  Whisky  is  the  curse  of  this  country  as  far  as  Europeans 
are  concerned,  and  is  the  cause  of  more  than  half  the  sickness. 

"  One  of  the  chief  drawbacks  to  this  place,  after  all,  is  the  lack  of  news.  Blantyre 
is  a  hot-bed  of  gossip  and  rumours  simply  because  it  has  no  daily  newspaper.  There 
are  no  Reuter's  telegrams  to  read  at  the  club  every  day  because  we  are  not  in  direct 
telegraph  communication  with  the  outer  world.  The  mails  arrive  with  much  uncertainty; 
this  is  partly  owing  to  the  irregular  way  in  which  the  ocean-going  steamers  call  at  Chinde. 
There  are  supposed  to  be  two  mails  from  Europe  landed  at  Chinde  in  the  month,  but 
ijometimes  they  both  come  together  and  then  there  is  a  month's  interval  before  another 
mail  arrives ;  or  when  the  mail  is  landed  at  Chinde  there  may  be  no  steamer  ready  to 
start  up-river  with  it.  Again,  in  the  dry  season  the  steamers  may  stick  on  a  sandbank 
before  they  reach  Chiromo,  and  then  the  mails  have  to  be  sent  overland  to  Blantyre,  but 
the  mail-carriers  may  have  to  ford  flooded  rivers,  or  they  may  be  scared  by  a  lion,  so  the 
time  they  take  varies  from  two  and  a  half  to  five  days.  Usually  our  letters  and  papers 
from  England  are  six  to  seven  weeks  old  when  they  reach  us  and  I  suppose  my  letters 
take  the  same  time  to  reach  you.  Yet  it  is  wonderful  how  much  up  to  date  people  are 
here  in  information.  It  is  astonishing  what  a  lot  everybody  reads,  and  what  heaps 
of  newspapers  and  magazines  are  taken  in.  The  Administration  has  started  a  lending 
library  with  a  very  decent  collection  of  books,  and  although  this  is  supposed  to  be 
primarily  for  Administration  officials  outsiders  may  by  permission  be  allowed  to  join. 
We  have  a  Planters'  Association  and  Chamber  of  Commerce. 


"The  best  fun  I  think  is  shooting.  Game  near  Blantyre  is  getting  scarce  though 
there  are  heaps  of  lions  and  leopards,  but  it  is  so  difficult  to  see  them  in  the  long  grass 
and  thick  bush.  What  I  enjoy,  however,  is  going  from  a  Saturday  to  Monday  towards 
a  mountain  called  Chiradzulu,  and  along  the  river  Namasi.  We  always  give  our  labourers 
on  the  plantations  a  Saturday  half-holiday,  and  I  can  generally  trust  the  capitaos  to  see 
that  the  men  do  a  fair  amount  of  work  in  the  Saturday  morning,  so  that  I  can  sometimes 
get  away  on  the  Friday  night  with  a  companion  or  two.  We  take  tent,  beds,  folding 
chairs  and  table,  a  few  pots  and  pans  and  a  basket  of  provisions.  One  of  the  chaps  who 
generally  comes  with  me  brings  his  cook  with  him,  a  native  boy  trained  at  the  Mission 
and  not  half  a  bad  cook  either.  We  usually  ride  out  on  our  ponies  as  far  as  the 
Administration  station  on  the  Namasi  river,  as  there  is  4  good  road  there.  Here  we 
leave  the  nags  under  shelter  and  then  strike  off  into  the  bush.  Of  course  the  rains  are 
now  on  us  and  this  sort  of  thing  is  not  so  pleasant  in  wet  weather,  but  it  was  very  jolly 
at  the  end  of  the  dry  season  when  the  dense  grass  and  bush  were  burnt,  after  the  bush 
fires,  and  one  could  get  about  easily  and  see  the  game.  We  generally  chose  a  place  by 
the  banks  of  a  stream  with  plenty  of  shade,  for  our  camp.  The  next  day  we  would  walk 
something  like  twenty  miles  in  the  course  of  our  shooting,  and  although  our  luck  varied 


1/2 


BRITISH    CENTRAL    AFRICA 


we  seldom  failed  to  get  two  or  three  buck  at  least.  As  to  the  guinea  fowl,  they  were 
there  in  swarms !  It  was  awfully  jolly  sitting  smoking  round  a  huge  camp  fire,  so 
perfectly  safe  and  yet  in  such  a  wild  country  with  lions  roaring  at  intervals  not  far  away, 
and  the  queer  sounds  of  owls  and  tiger-cats  and  chirping  insects  coming  from  the  thick 
bush.  Our  boys  used  to  build  rough  shelters  of  branches  to  sleep  in  and  try  to  keep  up 
fires  through  the  night,  more  to  scare  away  wild  beasts  than  for  any  other  reason. 
Recently  these  little  jaunts  have  been  more  charming  on  account  of  the  gorgeousness 
of  the  wild  flowers,  for  this  is  the  spring  of  the  year.  I  am  a  bit  of  a  botanist,  you 
know,  but  even  if  I  was  not  I  could  not  help  admiring  the  gorgeous  masses  of  colour 
which  the  different  flowers  produce  among  the  young  green  grass,  on  the  bushes,  and  on 
the  big  trees." 


IN   CAMP— AFTER   A    DAYS   SHOOTING 


"Pazulu,  February  i^fh, 

"  We  have  had  an  anxious  time  here  with  young  McClear.  He  went  down  the 
Upper  Shire  to  look  at  some  land  that  his  father  is  thinking  of  investing  in  for  growing 
sugar  (as  the  sugar  cane  grows  there  in  tremendous  luxuriance  and  there  is  a  great 
local  demand  for  sugar),  but  he  is  a  very  careless  chap,  you  know,  and  what  with  getting 
wet  through  with  rain  and  exposing  himself  too  much  to  the  sun  and  drinking  whatever 
water  he  comes  across,  he  has  fallen  ill  with  black-water  fever  since  he  came  back  to 
Blantyre.  Nobody  can  quite  account  for  this  peculiar  disease.  Some  people  say  it 
comes  from  turning  up  the  new  soil  of  a  very  rank  kind ;  others — and  they  are  generally 
doctors — assert  that  the  germ  is  quite  different  from  that  in  malarial  fever,  and  enters  the 
system  from  water,  either  through  the  pores  of  the  skin  in  bathing  or  through  the 
stomach,  if  the  infected  water  is  drunk.  Therefore  there  should  be  one  very  simple 
preventative  by  having  all  one's  washing  and  drinking  water  boiled.  However  it  may  be, 
young  McClear  went  down  with  it  very  suddenly  only  two  days  after  he  got  back.  He 
seemed  quite  well  in  the  morning,  ate  his  breakfast  as  usual,  and  went  out  to  the 


THE    EUROPEAN    SETTLERS  173 

plantation,  but  at  eleven  o'clock  I  met  him  coming  back  to  breakfast  (we  have  an  early 
breakfast  at  six  and  a  big  breakfast  at  eleven — no  luncheon)  an  hour  before  the  usual 
time.  I  thought  he  looked  awfully  queer.  There  was  a  grey  look  about  his  face  and  he 
was  very  dark  about  the  eyes.  He  told  me  he  felt  a  frightful  pain  in  his  back  and  was 
very  cold.  Instead  of  coming  to  breakfast  he  went  to  bed.  Presently  his  boy  came  down 
to  tell  us  that  *  Master  was  very  bad.'  Old  McClear  went  up  and  found  that  his  son  had 
got  the  *  black-water '  fever.  He  vomited  steadily  all  that  day,  and  at  night-fall  was  as 
yellow  as  a  guinea,  besides  being  dreadfully  weak.  Of  course  we  had  the  doctor  over  as 
soon  as  possible,  but  in  this  disease  doctors  at  present  can  do  very  little.  Quinine  is  of 
no  avail  and  all  that  you  can  aim  at  is  keeping  up  the  patient's  strength.  Young  McClear 
was  smartly  purged  and  then  given  champagne  and  water  to  drink,  and  he  went  on 
vomiting  all  night  and  the  greater  part  of  next  day.  The  doctor  then  injected  morphia 
into  his  arm  and  this  stopped  the  vomiting  and  gave  him  a  little  sleep.  After  that  he 
managed  to  keep  down  some  chicken  broth,  and  the  third  and  fourth  days  he  mended. 
In  six  days  he  was  seemingly  all  right,  though  a  little  weak,  and  on  the  seventh  day  he 
was  actually  up  and  about,  and  his  skin  had  almost  regained  its  normal  colour. 

"  After  a  go  of  black-water  fever  it  is  always  better  to  leave  the  country  for  a  change 
if  you  can,  but  you  ought  not  to  hurry  away  too  soon  lest  the  fatigues  of  the  journey 
should  bring  on  a  relapse,  and  therefore  McClear  will  wait  till  April  and  then  run  down 
to  Natal  and  back  for  a  trip.  Many  men  who  come  to  this  country  never  get  black-water 
fever,  either  because  they  take  great  care  of  themselves  or  because  the  germs  which  cause 
the  disease  by  attacking  the  red-blood  corpuscles  cannot  get  the  mastery  over  their 
systems,  but  where  a  man  finds  himself  to  be  subject  to  attacks  of  this  disease  I  should 
advise  him  to  quit:  Central  Africa  is  not  for  him." 

"  Pazulu,  May  2nd, 

"  Our  rainy  season  came  to  an  end  a  couple  of  weeks  ago  and  I  want  to  lose  no  time 
about  building  my  house  as  a  large  quantity  of  bricks  will  have  to  be  made  during  this 
dry  season.  I  have  hired  some  native  brickmakers.  from  Blantyre.  They  will  be  able 
to  make  about  1,000  bricks  a  day.  I  shall  need  about  45,000  bricks  for  my  house.  I 
have  been  cutting  timber  on  McClear's  land  by  arrangement,  for  joists  and  beams.  The 
doors,  match-board  skirting,  &c.,  I  shall  buy  at  one  of  the  stores  in  Blantyre,  where  I 
shall  also  get  corrugated  iron  for  the  roof  and  the  timber  for  the  inner  ceiling,  without 
which  the  bare  iron  would  be  a  great  deal  too  hot  in  the  summer  and  too  cold  in  the 
winter.  I  shall  take  care  that  all  the  rooms  have  fire-places.  I  cannot  tell  you  how 
necessary  fires  are  here  for  health  and  comfort.  Fortunately  we  have  any  quantity  of 
fire-wood.  As  I  am  trying  hard  to  keep  within  my  thousand  pounds  I  shall  not  build  a 
house  of  more  than  three  rooms  with  a  nice  large  verandah,  and  a  portion  of  the 
verandah  will  be  cut  off  as  a  bath-room  and  communicate  with  the  bed-room  by  a  door. 

"  The  other  two  rooms  will  be  respectively  dining-room  and  oflSce  in  one,  and  private 
sitting-room.  I  shall  also  run  up  a  small  brick  store  with  a  strong  roof  and  a  strong 
door  (to  prevent  thieving).  My  kitchen  will  be  wattle  and  daub  with  a  thatched  roof 
and  a  brick  chimney  and  will  stand  at  a  little  distance  from  the  house  connected  with  it 
by  a  covered  way.  Another  corner  of  the  verandah  beside  the  bath-room  will  be 
enclosed  as  a  pantry  and  private  store-room  for  provisions.  In  building  my  house  I  am 
strongly  cautioned  to  avoid  "a  through  draught."  The  principle  on  which  the  oldest 
planters'  houses  were  built  was  a  very  unhealthy  one.  The  front  door  opened  into  a 
kind  of  hall  which  was  used  as  a  dining-room,  and  immediately  opposite  the  front  door 
was  a  back  door  by  which  the  food  was  brought  in  to  the  table.  The  result  was  that 
persons  sitting  at  the  table  sat  in  a  draught,  and  to  sit  in  a  draught  in  this  country  or  to 
get  a  chill  in  any  way  is  the  surest  cause  of  fever. 

"  My  verandah  will  be  paved  with  tiles  which  I  can  obtain  in  Blantyre  from  the  men 
who  make  them.  The  foundations  of  the  house  will  be  brick,  over  which  I  shall  put  a 
good  layer  of  cement  to  stop  any  nonsense  on  the  part  of  white  ants,  though  on  my 


1 74 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


-estate  we  are  not  troubled  with  these  pests  so  far  as  I  know,  but  Thomas,  of  Blantyre, 
who  lives  near  here,  after  building  a  very  nice  house  has  been  awfully  troubled  with  the 
white  ants,  who  in  a  few  nights  would  build  up  a  huge  ant-hill  in  the  middle  of  the 
drawing-room,  if  he  was  away  and  the  house  shut  up.  They  also  came  up  under  his 
bed  and  broke  out  all  through  the  walls.  The  result  was  he  had  to  take  up  his  carefully 
laid  floors,  and  dig  and  dig  and  dig,  until  he  rooted  out  at  least  three  separate  nests.  In 
one  case  he  was  obliged  to  tunnel  down  something  like  ten  feet  before  he  found  the 
queen ;  and  until  you  have  found  and  extirpated  the  queens  your  work  has  been  for 
nothing,  for  if  you  fill  up  the  hole  the  white  ant  community  soon  gets  to  rights  again 
and  recommences  operations.  The  worst  of  it  is,  you  never  know  whether  there  may 
not  be  more  than  one  queen  in  the  nest  and  whether  you  have  destroyed  them  all ! 


NATIVES   MAKING   BRICKS 


"  In  front  of  my  house  I  intend  to  have  a  small  terrace,  which  I  shall  plant  in  an 
orderly  way  with  flower  beds.     Last  month  I  ran  over  to  Zomba  for  a  visit  and  stayed 

with  one  of  the  officials  of  the  Administration,  and  there  I  saw  old  VV who  is  in 

-charge  of  the  Botanical  Gardens,  who  has  given  me  lots  of  flower  seeds,  and  promised 
me  any  amount  of  plants  and  strawberries,  as  soon  as  my  garden  is  ready  to  receive 

them.     W is  giving  away  strawberry  plants  to  everyone  and  I  wonder  that  they  are 

not  more  run  after  as  those  planted  at  Zomba  produce  excellent  crops  year  after  year, 
the  fruit  season  lasting  about  five  months.  They  are  not  large  strawberries  like  those  at 
home,  but  a  small  Alpine  kind.     Yet  they  are  very  fragrant  and  very  sweet. 

"Down  in  the  lower  country  near  Lake  Chilwa,  you  see  a  most  extraordinary 
Euphorbia  growing,  which  I  am  afraid  most  of  the  planters  call  "cactuses."^  These  are 
both  quaint  and  ornamental,  and  I  am  going  to  plant  some  of  them  along  the  bottom  of 
my  garden.  In  the  centre  of  my  flower  beds  I  shall  put  wild  date  palms,  which  grow 
in  the  stream-valleys,  and  at  each  corner  of  the  terrace  there  shall  be  a  raphia  palm. 

^  There  are  n9  cacti  in  Africa,  except  the  Opuntia  (prickly  pear)  introduced  from  America  into  North 
and  South  Africa.— H.  H.  J. 


THE   EUROPEAN    SETTLERS 


175 


There  is  one  attraction  in  this  country  for  people  who  like  flowers  and  palms  on  the 
table  and  about  the  house.  Here  they  cost  absolutely  nothing.  You  have  only  to  send 
a  boy  into  the  bush  and  he  will  come  back  with  a  young  palm  which  would  cost  at  least  a 
guinea  at  home,  or  with  a  handful  of  flowers  such  as  you  might  see  in  a  horticultural  show. 

"My  coffee  presents  a  most  thriving  appearance.     1  keep  it  studiously  free  from 
weeds.     Next  October  I  shall  be  ready  to  plant  up  another  fifty  acres. 

"You  asked  me  to  give  you  some  idea  of  Blantyre.  It  seems  hardly  correct  to 
speak  of  it  as  a  town  as  the  houses  are  still  very  scattered,  yet  it  is  now  constituted 
as  a  township,  and  rather  well  laid  out  with  roads.  When  all  the  blanks  between  the 
present  dwellings  are  filled  up,  it  will  be  a  very  large  and  important  city.  At  present  its 
future  greatness  is,  as  the  French  would  say,  only  ebauche.  The  most  striking  feature  is 
the  church,  which  is  a  very  handsome  red  brick  building,  apparently  a  mixture  of  Norman 
and  Byzantine  styles  with  white  domes.  It  is  really  an  extraordinarily  fine  church  for  the 
centre  of  Africa,  and  is  appropriately  placed  in  the  middle  of  a  large  open  space  or 
square,  without  any  other  buildings  near  at  hand  to  dwarf  its  proportions.  When  we  had 
the  Kawinga  scare  two  or  three  months  ago  (I  forgot  to  tell  you  that  Kawinga  the  old  slave- 
raiding  chief  to  the  north  of  Zomba 
attempted  to  try  conclusions  with 
the  British  two  months  ago),  it 
was  reported  by  the  natives  that 
Kawinga's  object  in  invading  Blan- 
tyre would  be  to  secure  the  church 
to  himself  as  a  residence !  It  is 
at  present  the  mean  by  which  all 
natives  measure  their  ideas  of  a 
really  fine  building.  On  one  side 
of  the  square  there  are  gardens  be- 
longing to  the  mission ;  on  the 
other  side  a  very  handsome  school 
designed  somewhat  in  the  Moorish 
style  of  architecture.  Along  the 
Zomba  road  to  the  north  of  the 
church  are  the  residences  of  the 
European  missionaries.  This  church 
square  is  connected  with  the  rest  of 
Blantyre  by  a  handsome  avenue  of 
cypresses  and  eucalyptus.  The 
growth  of  the  cypresses  is  astonish- 
ing, as  well  as  their  lateral  bulk,  and 
the  road  is  completely  shaded  and 
delightful  for  a  stroll,  because  of  a 
strong  wholesome  perfiime  from 
these  conifers.  The  soil  about  here 
is  very  red,  and  the  neatly -made 
roads  branching  off  in  all  directions 
passing  through  very  green  vegeta- 
tion give  a  pretty  effect  to  the  eye. 
i'here  are  no  buildings  along  this  road  until  you  reach  the  vicinity  of  the  Administration 
headquarters  which  are  locally  known  as  the  *Boma.'^  Here  we  come  to  a  good  many 
buildings,  and  all  of  them  red  brick  with  corrugated  iron  roofs  and  of  one  storey. 
The  corrugated  iron  is  not  as  ugly  as  you  might  think  as  it  is  mostly  painted  red,  which 
gives  it  more  the  appearance  of  tiles. 

*  **  Boma"  is  a  Swahili  word  for  "stockade."  The  first  settlement  of  the  Government  here  was  on  a 
piece  of  property  belonging  to  a  native  which  had  a  stockade  of  ihorn  around  it.  SDon  after  this  wns 
purchased,  however,  the  thorn  hedge  was  done  away  with.— H.  H.  J. 


CYPRESS   AVENUE,   BLANTYRE 


1/6 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


"Continuing  along  the  straight  road,  and  leaving  the  Government  buildings  to  the 
right,  you  cross  the  Mudi  stream  by  a  fine  bridge,^  built  by  the  African  Lakes  Company. 
On  the  other  side  of  the  Mudi  one  is  on  the  property  of  the  African  Lakes  Company 
which  is  a  large  suburb,  called  Mandala,  on  rising  ground,  from  which  a  fine  view  can  be 
obtained  of  the  Mission  settlement.     At  Mandala  there  are  many  houses  and  stores  and 

workshops  and  stables  —  all  very 
neatly  made  of  brick,  with  iron  roofs. 
There  are  handsome  roads  and 
gardens  and  a  perfect  forest  of 
eucalyptus.  The  company  has  ex 
tensive  nurseries  there  which  extend 
down  to  the  banks  of  the  Mudi,  and 
has  had  the  good  taste  to  preser\e 
a  bit  of  the  old  forest  w^hich  covered 
the  site  of  Blantyre  when  the 
missionaries  first  arrived.  This 
forest  chiefly  consisted  of  a  sf>ecies 
of  acacia  tree  which  has  dense  dark 
green  foliage  in  flat  layers  giving  to 
it  at  a  distance  almost  the  appear- 
ance of  a  cedar.  Beyond  Mandala 
one  joins  the  main  road  to  Katunga, 
and  the  scenery  becomes  absolutely 
beautiful  as  you  mount  up  towards 
the  shoulder  of  Soche  mountain. 
Here  in  all  directions  there  is  a 
beautiful  forest,  and  the  views  in 
the  direction  of  the  Shire  river 
might  vie  with  the  average  pretty 
scenery  of  any  country.  There  are 
still  numbers  of  coffee  plantations 
on  the  outskirts  of  Blantyre,  though 
the  tendency  of  the  planters  would 
naturally  be  to  keep  their  future 
plantations  farther  away  from  the 
vicinity  of  the  town.  The  natives  of 
Blantyre  are  a  rather  heterogeneous 
lot.  The  foundation  of  the  stock 
is  of  Mang'anja  race,  crossed  with 
Yao,  who  invaded  the  country  some  years  ago ;  but  for  many  years  refugees  from  other 
parts  of  the  Protectorate  have  been  gathering  round  the  Mission  station,  the  Lakes 
Company,  Sharrer's  Traffic  Company,  and  other  large  employers  of  labour,  all  of  whom 
have  brought  men  down  from  the  lakes  and  up  from  the  Zambezi,  who  have  gradually 
made  their  permanent  homes  at  Blantyre.  Morality  is  very  low,  and  although  they  are 
not  strikingly  dishonest  still  they  are  not  above  petty  pilfering,  and  the  coffee  plantations 
.which  are  too  near  the  town  are  apt  to  have  their  berries  picked  by  the  black  Blantyre 
citizens  at  night,  and  the  coffee  thus  acquired  is  sent  out  and  sold  to  native  planters — 
for  some  of  the  educated  natives  and  small  chiefs  have  started  coffee  plantations. 

"  Unfortunately,  the  water  supply  here  is  very  bad,  though  a  little  energy  would  set 
it  all  right.  There  is  the  Mudi  stream,  for  instance,  which  flows  perennially  without  much 
diminution,  even  in  the  dry  season  ;  but  the  upper  waters  of  the  Mudi  flow  through 
native  villages  and  the  settlements  of  the  missionary  scholars,  and  all  these  people  wash 
their  clothes  and  persons  in  the  river,  besides  emptying  into  it  all  kinds  of  filth.     The 

^  The  Mudi  is  crossed  higher  up  by  another  bridge  which  the  Administration  has  just  made. — H.  H.  J. 


EUCALYFrUS  AVENUE,  ZOMBA 


THE   EUROPEAN    SETTLERS 


177 


result  is  that  its  waters  are  quite  unfit  for  drinking  purposes.  A  few  of  the  settlers  have 
wells,  but  all  of  these  except  two  seem  to  produce  slightly  brackish  unwholesome  water. 
Away  to  the  north  of  Blantyre  arises  another  very  fine  stream,  the  Likubula.  This  is 
rather  too  much  below  the  level  of  Blantyre  to  make  it  easy  to  convey  the  water  to  the 
township.     The  simplest  expedient  would  seem  to  be  the  purification  of  the  Mudi. 

**  But  if  the  Mudi  be  at  present  unwholesome  its  banks  are  charming  for  the  foliage 
of  the  trees  and  the  loveliness  of  the  wild  flowers.  I  would  notice  specially  one  crimson 
lily  which  gives  a  succession  of  flowers  for  many  months  of  the  year. 

"  And  yet  how  extraordinary  people  are  in  regard  to  wild  flowers  !  I  remember  when 
I  had  just  been  admiring  these  red  lilies  on  the  Mudi*s  banks  I  went  to  dinner  with  one 
of  the  married  couples  in  Blantyre,  and  the  lady  of  the  house  apologised  to  me  for  the 
bareness  of  the  table,  complaining  that  her  garden  as  yet  produced  no  flowers.  Yet  she 
had  only  got  to  send  one  of  the  servants  out  to  the  banks  of  the  stream  and  to  the 
adjoining  fields  and  she  could  have  decked  her  table  with  red  lilies,  mauve,  orange,  and 
white  ground-orchids,  and  blue  bean  flowers  in  a  way  which  would  excite  anyone's  envy 
at  home. 

"  My  reference  to  *  married  couples '  reminds  me  to  tell  you  that  a  good  many  of 
the  men  settled  here  are  married  and  their  wives  seem  to  stand  the  climate  as  well 
as  if  not  even  better  than  their  husbands,  because,  I  imagine,  they  are  exposed  less  to  the 
sun  and  do  not  have  so  much  outdoor  work.  Although  it  is  not  consistent  with  the 
duties  of  the  planter  still  it  is  borne  in  on  my  mind  that  the  healthiest  life  in  Central 
Africa  is  an  indoor  life.  People  who  keep  very  much  to  the  house  and  do  not  go  out 
or  go  far  afield  between  9  a.m.  and  4  p.m.  never  seem  to  get  fever.  At  the  same  time 
you  should  not  remain  out  after  sunset  as  you  are  apt  to  get  a  chill. 


I  do  not  know  whether  in  the  foregoing  extracts  from  supposititious 
letters  I  have  succeeded  in  giving  a  fairly  correct  idea  of  the  life  that  Europeans 
lead  under  present  conditions  in  British  Central  Africa.  More  will  be  said 
on  this  subject  in  dealing  with  the  Missionaries. 

For  the  trader  and  the  planter  I  think  it  may 
be  said  that  the  country  offers  sufficiently  sure  and 
rapid  profits  for  their  enterprise  to  compensate  the 
risk  run  in  the  matter  of  health.  The  various 
trading  companies  in  the  countrj'^  appear  to  be 
doing  well  with  an  ever-extending  business  and 
to  be  constantly  increasing  the  number  of  their 
establishments.  Even  traders  in  a  small  way,  if 
they  have  energy  and  astuteness,  may  reap  con- 
siderable earnings  with  relatively  small  outlay. 
One  man,  for  instance,  went  up  to  Kotakota  on 
Lake  Nyasa  with  a  few  hundreds  of  pounds  at  his 
disposal,  bought  a  large  number  of  cattle  at  a 
very  low  price  in  the  Marimba  district  and  pur- 
chased all  the  ivory  the  Arabs  at  Kotakota  had 
to  dispose  of,  and  on  his  total  transaction  made  a 
clear  profit  of  ;^20CX)  by  selling  the  cattle  and 
ivory  at  Blantyre ;  but  it  appears  to  me  that  as 
time  goes  on  the  European  trading  community 
will  be  limited  to  the  employes  of  two  or  three 
great  trading  companies  commanding  considerable  capital,  and  to  a  number 
of  British  Indians  who  will  not  in  any  way  conflict  with  the  commerce  of  the 
Europeans  because  they  will  often  act  as  the  middlemen  buying  up  small 
12 


A    PLANTER 


178  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

quantities  of  produce  here  and  there  from  the  natives  which  they  will  re-sell 
in  large  amounts  to  the  European  firms  and  agencies. 

The  remainder  of  the  European  settlers  i^ill  be  rather  planters  than  traders, 
disposing  likewise  of  their  produce  to  the  commercial  companies  in  British 
Central  Africa.  Originally  when  there  was  very  little  or  no  cash  in  the  country 
every  planter  had  likewise  to  be  a  trader  on  a  small  scale  as  all  labourers 
were  paid  in  trade  goods,  and  all  the  food  that  he  bought  from  the  natives  was 
purchased  in  the  same  manner.  Now  the  country  is  full  of  cash,  and  in  many 
districts  the  natives  refuse  to  accept  any  pa>Tnent  except  in  money,  preferring  to 
go  to  the  principal  stores  and  make  their  purchases  there.  To  a  certain  extent, 
moreover,  money  payments  are  now  compulsory  between  European  employers 
and  their  native  employes ;  moreover  a  planter  often  objects  to  taking  out  a 
trading  licence  and  prefers  instead  to  relinquish  his  small  commerce  in  this  respect 

Briefly  stated,  the  only  serious  drawback  to  British  Central  Africa  as  a 
field  of  enterprise  for  trader  or  planter  is  malarial  fever,  either  in  its 
ordinary  form,  or  in  its  severest  type  which  is  commonly  known  as  black- 
water  fever.     I  shall  have  a  few  words  to  say  about  this  malady  further  on. 


AN   IVORY  CARAVAN   ARRIVING   AT   KOTAKOTA 


The  advantages  are,  at  the  present  time,  that  land  is  cheap;  the  country 
is  almost  everywhere  well  watered  by  perennial  streams,  and  by  a  reasonable 
rainfall ;  the  scenery  is  beautiful  in  many  of  the  upland  districts ;  the  climate 
is  delicious — seldom  too  hot  and  often  cold  and  pleasant ;  there  is  an  abundance 
of  cheap  native  labour;  transport,  though  offering  certain  difficulties  inherent 
in  all  undeveloped  parts  of  Africa,  is  growing  far  easier  and  cheaper  than  in 
Central  South  Africa,  as  the  Shire  river  is  navigable  at  all  times  of  the  year, 
except  for  about  80  miles  of  its  course,  and  Lake  Nyasa  is  an  inland  sea  with 
A  shore  line  of  something  like  800  miles.  Moreover,  the  cost  of  simple  articles 
of  food  such  as  oxen,  goats  or  sheep,  or  of  antelopes  and  other  big  game, 
poultry,  eggs,  and  milk  is  cheap,  together  with  the  prices  of  a  few  vegetables 
like  potatoes  or  grain  like  Indian  corn;  and  all  the  European  goods  are  not  so 
expensive  as  they  would  be  in  the  interior  of  Australia,  in  Central  South  Africa, 
or  in  the  interior  of  South  America  because  of  the  relative  cheapness  of 
transport  from  the  coast  and  of  the  very  low  Customs  duties. 

To  sum  up  the  question,  I  might  state  with  truth  that  du^  for  malarial  fever 
this  country  would  be  an  earthly  paradise ;  the  "  but "  however  is  a  very  big  one. 
Whether  the  development  of  medical  science  will  enable  us  to  find  the  same 
antidote  to  malarial  fever  as  we  have  found  for  small-pox  in  vaccination, 
or  whether  drugs  will  be  discovered  which  will  make  the  treatment  of  the 
disease  and  recovery  therefrom  almost  certain,  remains  to  be  seen.     If  however 


THE   EUROPEAN    SETTLERS  179 

here,  as  in  other  parts  of  tropical  Africa,  this  demon  could  be  conjured,  beyond 
all  question  the  prosperity  of  Western  Africa,  of  the  Congo  Basin  and  of  British 
Central  Africa  would  be  almost  unbounded. 

Ordinary  malarial  fever  is  serious  but  not  so  dangerous  as  that  special  form 
of  it  which  is  styled  "  black-water  "  or  haematuric.  The  difference  between  the 
effects  of  the  two  diseases  is  this.  Ordinary  malarial  fever  is  seldom  immediately 
fatal  but  after  continued  attacks  the  patient  is  often  left  with  some  permanent 
weakness.  Black-water  fever  is  either  fatal  in  a  very  few  days  or  has  such 
a  weakening  effect  on  the  heart  that  the  patient  dies  during  convalescence  from 
sudden  syncope;  but  where  black-water  fever  does  not  kill  it  never  leaves 
(as  far  as  I  am  aware)  permanent  effects  on  the  system  of  the  sufferer.  One 
attack,  however,  predisposes  to  another  and  as  a  rule  each  succeeding  attack  is 
more  severe  than  its  predecessor.  Consequently  a  man  who  has  had,  say,  two 
attacks  of  black-water  fever  should  not  return  to  any  part  of  Africa  where  that 
disease  is  endemic.^ 

The  origin  and  history  of  bilious  haemoglobinuric  or  "  black-water  "  fever  are 
still  obscure.  No  mention  of  this  disease  would  appear  to  have  been  made 
until  the  middle  of  this  century  when  it  was  described  by  the  French  naval 
surgeons  at  Nossib^  in  Madagascar.  According  to  Dr.  Wordsworth  Poole,  the 
principal  medical  officer  of  the  British  Central  Africa  Protectorate,  true  black- 
water  fever  has  occurred  in  parts  of  America  and  in  the  West  Indies  besides 
those  portions  of  Africa  and  Madagascar  to  which  I  have  made  allusion  in 
the  footnote.  Dr.  Poole  states  that  he  has  seen  a  case  of  it  in  Rome  and  that 
it  is  said  to  occur  in  Greece.  The  cases  occurring  in  tropical  America  which 
Dr.  Poole  cites  I  should  be  inclined  to  ascribe  to  a  variation  of  the  ordinary 
type  of  yellow  fever.  Now  yellow  fever,  in  my  opinion,  is  a  very  near 
conitection  of  black-water  fever,  and  some  writers  on  Africa  have  stated  that 
yellow  fever  was  actually  engendered  on  the  slave  ships  which  proceeded 
from  West  Africa  to  South  America,  and  have  suggested  it  was  simply  an 
acute  development  of  the  ordinary  African  haemoglobinuric  fever. 

One  remarkable  feature  in  this  disease  appears  to  be  that  assuming  it  is 
only  endemic  in  certain  parts  of  Africa,  its  germs  would  seem  to  be  capable 
of  lying  dormant  for  some  time  in  the  human  system  and  then  to  suddenly 
multiply  into  prodigious  activity  and  produce  an  attack  of  black-water  fever 
some  time  after  the  individual  has  left  the  infected  district.  For  instance, 
in  1893  after  having  been  absent  nearly  two  months  from  British  Central 
Africa  in  Cape  Colony  and  in  Natal,  I  had  a  most  severe  attack  of  black-water 
fever,  which  commenced  at  Durban  on  board  a  gunboat  and  finished  at  Delagoa 
Bay.  Again,  when  travelling  through  the  Tyrol  in  the  autumn  of  1894,  I 
was  suddenly  seized  with  a  slight  but  obvious  attack  of  this  fever  after 
returning  from  a  mountain  ascent.     Although  only  ill  for  about  twenty-four 

*  At  the  present  time  black-water  fever  is  endemic  on  the  West  Coast  of  Africa  from  the  Gambia 
on  the  north  to  Benguela  on  the  south,  and  inland  as  hr  as  the  limits  of  the  forest  country  of  West  Africa. 
It  extends  over  the  whole  of  the  Congo  basin.  I  believe  a  few  cases  were  noted  on  the  White  Nile  and 
the  western  tributaries  of  the  Nile  before  the  Mahdi's  revolt  expelled  the  Europeans  from  these  parts. 
It  is  endemic  in  the  regions  round  the  Victoria  Nyanza  and  Tanganyika;  in  the  eastern  half  of  Britbh 
Central  Africa ;  along  the  whole  course  of  the  Zamb^  between  Zumbo  and  its  mouth  ;  in  the  Portiiguese 
province  of  Mofambique ;  in  German  East  Africa ;  and  in  British  East  Africa.  It  is  said  not  to  be 
endemic  in  the  islands  of  Zanzibar  and  Pembaand  that  those  persons  who  have  suffered  from  it  there  brought 
the  germs  of  it  from  some  other  part  of  Africa.  I  have  not  heard  that  it  exists  at  Beira  or  south  of  the 
Zambezi,  but  should  not  be  surprised  to  learn  that  cases  of  it  occasionally  occur  there.  Roughly  speaking, 
it  ma^jT  be  said  that  as  far  as  we  know  the  Upper  Niger  regions,  the  North  Central  and  fiistem  Sudan, 
Aliyssinia,  Somaliland,  Galaland,  Egypt,  Northern  Africa  and  Africa  South  of  the  Zambezi  are  free  from 
it     It  is  said  to  occur  in  Madagascar. 


i8o  BRITISH   CENTRAL   AFRICA 

hours  I  had  every  symptom  of  black-water  fever  in  a  marked  form.  A  case 
occurred  with  one  of  the  ladies  of  the  Universities  Mission  at  Zanzibar  who 
had  an  attack  of  black-water  fever  which  came  on  after  her  return  to  England. 

The  mortality  in  black-water  fever  is  about  40  per  cent,  among  those  who 
have  the  disease  for  the  first  time ;  50  per  cent  among  those  who  have  it  for 
the  second  time  ;  75  per  cent,  among  those  who  have  it  for  the  third  time ;  and 
it  is  very  rare  that  anyone  survives  more  than  three  attacks.  Not  counting  the 
trifling  little  touch  in  the  Tyrol,  I  have  had  four  attacks  of  this  disease  at 
different  periods  from  1886  to  1896.  I  know  one  of  the  German  officials  in 
East  Africa  who  has  survived  five  attacks  and  is  apparently  in  robust  health, 
and  Dr.  Kerr  Cross  mentions  an  European  in  North  Nyasa  (in  good  health  at 
the  present  time)  who  has  had  this  fever  ten  times ! 

On  the  last  occasion  when  I  had  black-water  fever  I  derived  very  great 
benefit  from  a  single  injection  of  morphia,  which  checked  the  vomiting  and 
gave  the  body  time  for  repose  and  recuperation.  Otherwise  I  know  of 
absolutely  no  drug  which  has  been  proved  really  efficacious  in  treating  this 
dangerous  disease.  All  we  can  say  at  the  present  time  is  that  good  nursing 
and  a  good  constitution  will  generally  pull  patients  through  an  attack.  Quinine 
appears  to  be  of  little  use,  unless  during  convalescence. 

The  symptoms  of  the  disease  are  the  following : — 

The  patient  ordinarily  complains  of  a  severe  pain  in  his  back  and  a  general 
sense  of  malaise.  This  is  often  succeeded  by  a  violent  shivering  fit  Upon 
passing  urine  the  latter  is  found  to  be  a  dark  sepia  colour,  and  subsequently 
becomes  a  deep  black  with  reddish  reflexions,  which  accounts  for  the  popular 
name  given  to  the  fever.  Sometimes  the  colour  is  almost  the  tint  of  burgundy 
or  claret  Not  many  hours  after  the  attack  has  begun  the  colour  of  the 
patient's  skin  becomes  increasingly  yellow.  The  temperature  may  sometimes 
be  as  high  as  105  degrees  following  on  the  shivering  fit,  but  high  temperatures 
are  not  necessarily  a  very  marked  or  serious  symptom  in  black-water  fever.  A 
most  distressing  vomiting  is  perhaps  the  most  customary  symptom  next  to  the 
black  water. 

The  best  way  to  treat  this  fever  is  to  put  the  patient  immediately  to  bed, 
placing  hot-water  bottles  at  his  feet,  and  to  give  him  a  strong  purge.  At  first 
the  vomiting  should  not  be  checked,  but  as  soon  as  it  tends  to  weaken  the 
patient  it  ought  to  be  stopped,  if  not  by  some  opiate  drug  administered  through 
the  stomach,  then  by  an  injection  of  morphia.  When  it  is  deemed  that  the 
patient  has  vomited  sufficiently  to  get  rid  of  the  poison  in  the  system,  and  the 
further  vomiting  has  been  to  some  extent  checked,  nourishment  should  then 
be  administered  at  frequent  intervals — strong  beef-tea,  milk  and  brandy,  ^g^s 
beaten  up  with  port  wine,  &c.  Champagne  and  water,  especially  if  this  drink 
can  be  iced  and  made  into  a  champagne-cup,  is  excellent.  Champagne  is  often 
of  great  use  in  this  disease  in  restoring  the  patient's  strength.  Once  the 
dangerous  crisis  of  the  disease  is  passed  and  any  relapse  is  guarded  against 
by  the  most  careful  nursing,  the  patient  is  pretty  sure  to  recover,  unless  he  has 
naturally  a  very  weak  heart.  The  recovery  is  often  pleasantly  quick.  In  all 
my  attacks  of  black-water  fever  there  has  rarely  elapsed  more  than  a  week 
between  the  commencement  of  the  disease  and  the  power  to  get  up  and  walk 
about,  and  convalescence  in  other  ways  has  come  rapidly. 

Undoubtedly  much  ill-health  might  be  avoided  in  tropical  Africa  by  the 
adoption  of  very  temperate,  habits.  I  have  written  strongly  on  the  drink 
question  in  such  Reports  to  the  Government  as  have  been  published ;  I  do  not 


THE    EUROPEAN    SETTLERS 


i8i 


therefore  propose  to  repeat  my  diatribes  in  this  book.  But  it  should  be  added 
that  what  I  object  to  is  not  the  drinking  of  good  wine  or  beer,  but  the  con- 
sumption of  spirits.  Whisky  is  the  bane  of  Central  Africa  as  it  is  of  West 
Africa,  South  Africa  and  Australia.  I  dare  say  brandy  is  as  bad  as  whisky 
but  it  has  passed  out  of  fashion  as  a  drink,  and  therefore  it  has  not  incurred 
my  animosity  to  the  same  extent  as  the  national  product  of  Scotland  and 
Ireland.^  Moreover,  brandy  is  invaluable  in  sickness.  If  any  spirits  are  drunk 
it  seems  to  me  that  gin  is  the  least  harmful,  as  it  has  a  good  effect  on  the 
kidneys.  In  hot  climates  like  that  of  Central  Africa  whisky  seems  to  have 
a  bad  effect  on  the  liver  and  on  the  kidneys. 

I    do   not   suppose   these   words   will   have   much   effect    on    my   readers. 


IVORY   AT   MANDALA  STORE   (AFRICAN    LAKES   COMPANY) 

Alcoholic  excess  is  our  national  vice,  and  while  we  are  ready  enough  to 
deplore  the  opium-eating-or-smoking  on  the  part  of  the  Indians  or  Chinese, 
— a  vice  which  is  not  comparable  in  its  ill  effects  to  the  awful  abuse  of  alcohol 
which  is  so  characteristic  of  the  northern  peoples  of  Europe, — we  still  remain 
indifferent  to  the  effects  of  spirit-drinking  which  has  been  the  principal  vice  of 
the  nineteenth  century.  The  abuse  of  wine  or  beer,  though  bad  like  all  abuses, 
is  a  relatively  wholesome  excess  compared  to  even  a  moderate  consumption  of 
spirits.  Though  I  think  of  the  two  extremes  total  abstinence  is  the  better  course 
to  follow  in  Central  Africa,  I  do  not  recommend  total  abstinence  from  all  forms 
of  alcohol.  I  think,  on  the  contrary,  the  moderate  use  of  wine  is  distinctly 
beneficial,  especially  for  anaemic  people. 

Trading  with  the  natives  on  a  large  scale  is,  as  I  have  said,  chiefly  confined 
to  two  or  three  large  companies — the  African  Lakes,  Sharrer's,  the  Oceana 
Company  and  Kahn  &  Co.     But  a  small  amount  of  barter  chiefly  for  provisions 

^  Which  alone,  I  believe,  among  strong  waters  develops  the  poisonous  Fusel  Oil. 


l82 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


is  still  carried  on  by  all  Europeans  residing  in  the  less  settled  parts  of  British 
Central  Africa.  The  imported  trade  goods  consisted  chiefly  of  cotton  stuffs 
from  Manchester  and  Bombay,  beads  from  Birmingham  and  Venice,  blankets 
from  England,  India  and  Austria,  fezzes  from  Algeria  and  from  Newcastle- 
under-Lyne,  boots  from  Northampton,  felt  hats  from  various  parts  of  England, 
hardware  and  brass  wire  and  hoes  from  Birmingham,  cutlery  from  Sheffield, 
and  various  fancy  goods  from  India. 

The  trade  products  which  British  Central  Africa  gives  us  in  exchange  for 
these  goods  and  for  much  English  money  in  addition  are  :  Ivory,  coffee,  hippo, 
teeth,  rhinoceros  horns,  cattle,  hides,  wax,  rubber,  oil  seeds,  sanseviera  fibre, 
tobacco,  sugar  (locally  consumed),  wheat  (ditto),  maize  (ditto),  sheep,  goats  and 
poultry  (ditto),  timber  (ditto),  and  the  Strophanthus  drug. 


KAHN  AND  CO's  TRADING  STORE  AT  KOTAKOTA 

It  only  remains  to  say  a  few  words  about  the  relations  between  the 
Europeans  and  the  natives.  I  am  convinced  that  this  eastern  portion  of 
British  Central  Africa  will  never  be  a  white  man's  country  in  the  sense  that 
all  Africa  south  of  the  Zambezi,  and  all  Africa  north  of  the  Sahara  will 
eventually  become — countries  where  the  white  race  is  dominant  and  native  to  the 
soil.  Between  the  latitudes  of  the  Zambezi  and  the  Blue  Nile,  Africa  must  in 
the  first  instance  be  governed  in  the  interests  of  the  black  man,  and  the  black 
man  will  there  be  the  race  predominant  in  numbers,  if  not  in  influence.  The 
future  of  Tropical  Africa  is  to  be  another  India ;  not  another  Australia.  The 
white  man  cannot  permanently  colonise  Central  Africa  ;  he  can  only  settle  on  a 
few  favoured  tracts,  as  he  would  do  in  the  North  of  India.  Yet  Central  Africa 
possesses  boundless  resources  in  the  way  of  commerce,  as  it  is  extremely  rich 
in  natural  products, — animal,  vegetable  and  mineral.  These  it  will  pay  the 
European  to  develop  and  should  equally  profit  the  black  man  to  produce. 
Untaught  by  the  European  he  was  living  like  an  animal,  miserably  poor  in  the 
midst  of  boundless  wealth.    Taught  by  the  European  he  will  be  able  to  develop 


THE   EUROPEAN    SETTLERS  183 

this  wealth  and  bring  it  to  the  market,  and  the  European  on  the  other  hand 
will  be  enriched  by  this  enterprise.  But  Central  Africa  is  probably  as  remote 
from  self  government  or  representative  institutions  as  is  the  case  with  India. 
It  can  only  be  administered  under  the  benevolent  despotism  of  the  Imperial 
Government,  though  in  the  future  and  developed  administration  there  is  no 
reason  to  suppose  that  black  men  may  not  serve  as  officials  in  common  with 
white  men  and  with  yellow  men,  just  as  there  are  Negro  officials  in  the  adminis- 
tration of  the  West  African  colonies,  and  Malay  officials  in  the  Government  of 
the  Straits  Settlements. 

It  must  not  be  supposed  that  the  Administration  of  British  Central  Africa 
has  always  had,  or  will  always  command  the  unhesitating  support  of  the  white 
settlers  now  in  the  country.  It  sometimes  seems  to  me  that  the  bulk  of  these 
sturdy  pioneers  (excellent  though  the  results  of  their  work  have  been  in  develop- 
ing the  resources  of  the  country)  would,  if  allowed  to  govern  this  land  in  their 
own  way,  use  their  power  too  selfishly  in  the  interests  of  the  white  man.  This 
I  find  to  be  the  tendency  everywhere  where  the  governing  white  men  are  not 
wholly  disinterested,  are  not,  that  is  to  say,  paid  to  see  fair  play.  From  time  to 
time  a  planter  rises  up  to  object  to  the  natives  being  allowed  to  plant  coffee,  in 
case  they  should  come  into  competition  with  him,  or  urges  the  Administration 
to  use  its  power  despotically  to  compel  a  black  man  to  work  for  wages  whether 
he  will  or  not. 

The  ideal  of  the  average  European  trader  and  planter  in  Tropical  Africa 
would  be  a  country  where  the  black  millions  toil  unremittingly  for  the  benefit  of 
the  white  man.  They  would  see  that  the  negroes  were  well  fed  and  not  treated 
with  harshness,  but  anything  like  free  will  as  to  whether  they  went  to  work 
or  not,  or  any  attempt  at  competing  with  the  white  man  as  regards  education  or 
skilled  labour  would  not  be  tolerated. 

As  a  set  off  against  this  extreme  is  the  almost  equally  unreasonable  opinion 
entertained  by  the  missionaries  of  a  now  fast-disappearing  type,  that  Tropical 
Africa  was  to  be  developed  with  English  money  and  at  the  cost  of  English 
lives,  solely  and  only  for  the  benefit  of  the  black  man,  who,  as  in  many  mission 
stations,  was  to  lead  an  agreeably  idle  life,  receiving  food  and  clothes  gratis,  and 
not  being  required  to  do  much  in  exchange  but  make  a  more  or  less  hypocritical 
profession  of  Christianity.  This  mawkish  sentiment,  however,  no  longer  holds 
the  field,  and  there  is  scarcely  a  mission  in  Nyasaland  which  does  not  inculcate 
among  its  pupils  the  stem  necessity  of  work  in  all  sections  of  humanity.  The 
great  service  that  Christian  missions  have  rendered  to  Africa  has  been  to  act  as 
the  counterpoise  to  the  possibly  selfish  policy  of  the  irresponsible  white  pioneer, 
in  whose  eyes  the  native  was  merely  a  chattel,  a  more  or  less  useful  animal, 
but  with  no  rights  and  very  little  feeling. 

It  is  the  mission  of  an  impartial  administration  to  adopt  a  mean  course 
between  the  extreme  of  sentiment  and  the  extreme  of  selfishness.  It  must 
realise  that  but  for  the  enterprise  and  capital  of  these  much-criticised,  rough 
and  ready  pioneers  Central  Africa  would  be  of  no  value  and  the  natives 
would  receive  no  payment  for  the  products  of  their  land,  would,  in  fact, 
relapse  into  their  almost  ape-like  existence  of  fighting,  feeding  and  breeding. 
Therefore  due  encouragement  must  be  shown  to  European  planters,  traders 
and  miners,  whose  presence  in  the  country  is  the  figure  before  the  ciphers. 
Yet,  it  must  be  borne  in  mind  that  the  negro  is  a  man,  with  a  man's  rights  ; 
above  all,  that  he  was  the  owner  of  the  country  before  we  came,  and  deserves, 
nay,  is  entitled  to,  a   share   in  the  land,  commensurate  with   his   needs   and 


1 84 


BRITISH   CENTRAL   AFRICA 


numbers ;  that  in  numbers  he  will  always  exceed  the  white  man,  while 
he  may  some  day  come  to  rival  him  in  intelligence ;  and  that  finally  if  we 
do  not  use  our  power  to  govern  him  with  absolute  justice  the  time  will 
come  sooner  or  later  when  he  will  rise  against  us  and  expel  us  as  the 
Egyptian  officials  were  expelled  from  the  Sudan. 


APPENDIX    I. 
BILIOUS   HiEMOGLOBINURIC :    OR,   BLACK -WATER  FEVER 

BY   DR.   D.   KERR  CROSS,  M.B. 

This  form  of  fever  has  been  met  with  in  the  Mauritius,  Senegal,  Madagascar,  the 
Gold  Coast,  French  Guiana,  Venezuela,  in  some  parts  of  Central  America,  and  the  West 
India  Islands.  It  is  even  said  to  have  been  seen  in  some  parts  of  Italy  and  Spain.  It 
has  been  carefully  studied  in  Nosi-b^,  on  the  north-west  of  Madagascar,  where  it  is 
estimated  that  one  in  fourteen  of  the  Malarial  Fevers  treated  there  were  Haemoglobinuric. 
Some  cases  observed  in  Rome  have  been  carefully  studied,  with  the  result  that  some  are 
associated  with  the  Plasmodium  Malaria— \hQ  Bacterium  in  Malarial  Fever — while  others 
are  not.  The  same  has  been  the  case  on  the  Gold  Coast.  The  generally  accepted 
opinion  is  that  Haemoglobinuric  fever  may  arise  apart  from  any  malarial  affection. 
Any  bacterium  which  destroys  the  Red  Blood  Corpuscles  and  sets  free  the  red  colouring 
matter — Haemoglobin — will  bring  about  this  form  of  fever.  Haemoglobin  is  an  irritant 
to  the  kidneys,  and  brings  on  a  congested  state  of  that  organ.  In  this  form  of  fever  we 
always  find  the  kidneys  abnormal  both  in  size  and  in  weight,  while  there  is  a  bleeding  into 
the  tissue  under  the  capsule  and  in  the  interstitial  cortical  substance,  or  with  the  discolora- 
tion which  we  know  to  result  from  these  conditions.  The  Epithelia  lining  the  convo- 
luted tubes  of  the  kidney  are  lai^er  than  normal  and  are  cloudy,  while  the  tubes 
themselves  contain  casts  that  are  stained  yellow ;  this  yellow  staining  being  in  a  very 
fine  state  of  division  or,  in  some  cases,  in  large  granules.  There  is  a  marked  obstruction 
of  the  tubules  of  the  kidney,  both  in  the  cortical  and  pyramidal  portion.  The  blood 
vessels  and  capillaries  are  often  found  to  contain  corpuscles  that  are  deeply  stained.  This 
is  also  the  case  with  the  glomeruli  of  the  organ.  The  serum  of  the  blood  contains  great 
quantities  of  free  haemoglobin  which  gives  it  a  yellow  colour.  This  yellow  colour  is 
seen  in  the  serum  obtained  from  the  application  of  a  blister  to  the  surface  and  in  blood 
drawn  for  microscopic  purposes. 

This  form  of  fever  begins  as  a  regular  remittent.  There  is  usually  severe  vomiting  of 
bilious  matter — indeed,  my  experience  is  that  in  a  severe  case  there  is  vomiting  every 
half-hour  night  and  day.  There  are  bilious  stools  of  a  frothy  yellow  substance.  •  There 
is  very  marked  jaundice  over  the  whole  body.  There  is  delirium  of  a  violent  form. 
Sometimes  there  is  a  free  discharge  of  black  urine  or,  it  may  be,  of  actual  blood. 
Towards  the  close  of  a  fatal  case  there  is  suppression  of  the  urine  resulting  in  coma  and 
convulsions.  Everything  in  this  affection  points  to  the  wholesale  destruction  of  the 
Red  Blood  Corpuscles,  and  to  a  desperate  eflbrt  on  the  part  of  the  system  to  throw 
something  off.  From  the  suddenness  with  which  the  tissues  of  the  whole  body  become 
yellow,  we  might  say  that  every  tissue  takes  on  itself  the  power  of  secreting  bile.  Bile  is 
eliminated  by  the  bowels,  by  the  skin,  by  the  kidneys,  and  by  the  liver.  The  patient 
vomits,  purges,  sweats,  and  in  some  cases  bleeds.  The  gums,  it  may  be,  become  spongy 
and  sore,  and  may  even  shed  blood.  There  may  be  bleeding  from  the  mouth  and  nose 
and  over  purple  spots  on  the  skin.     As  in  the  case  of  yellow  fever,  there  may  be  a 


APPENDICES  iSs 

bleeding  from  the  mucous  membrane  of  the  stomach  and  bowels,  which,  acted  on  by 
the  digestive  fluids,  may  lead  to  a  Black  Vomit.  A  marked  feature,  too,  in  some  cases 
is  that  the  attacks  are  paroxysmal.  They  come  on  with  a  shivering  fit,  with  pains  in  the 
back,  retention  of  the  testes,  vomiting,  and  lowered  temperature.  Two  hours  afterwards, 
when  the  urine  is  passed,  it  is  bloody,  contains  albumin,  and  deposits  a  thick  sediment. 
The  dark  urine  may  continue  to  be  passed  for  three  or  four  days,  but  in  other  cases  after 
a  few  hours  there  is  a  return  to  the  normal  state.  I  have  known  of  seizures  to  come  on 
every  morning  about  eight  o'clock  for  ten  or  twelve  days  in  succession.  Gradually,  how- 
ever, they  seemed  to  diminish  in  severity,  and  then  to  pass  off.  Between  the  attacks  the 
urine  seemed  perfectly  normal. 

There  is  another  form  where  we  get  actual  blood  in  the  urine.  The  blood  is 
intimately  mixed  with  the  urine,  and  is  like  "  porter.'* 

Then  we  may  get  actual  suppression  of  urine.  The  malarial  poison  acts  on  the 
kidneys  like  a  poison.     The  result  of  this  suppression  is  uraemic  poisoning. 

It  seems  to  be  the  case  that  certain  constitutions  have  a  predisposition  to  this  form  of 
fever.  There  are  many  who  have  resided  in  British  Central  Africa  for  ten  or  more  years 
who  have  not  once  suffered  from  its  effects,  while  others  have  not  been  resident  as  many 
months,  and  have  suffered  from  several  attacks.  It  is  not  the  case  that  quinine  taken  in 
prophylactic  doses  every  day  arms  the  constitution  against  it.  For  myself  personally  I  take 
this  drug  only  when  I  think  I  need  it,  and  not  as  a  preventative  medicine ;  and  while  I 
have  suffered  from  ordinary  fever  I  have  not  once  in  eleven  years  had  the  more  serious 
affection.  This  also  seems  to  be  an  accepted  fact :  one  attack  of  black -water  fever 
predisposes  to  another,  so  that  eventually  every  attack  of  malarial  fever  will  take  this 
form.  I  think  this  explains  the  fact  of  one  European  at  the  north  of  Lake  Nyasa  having 
had  ten  consecutive  attacks  in  a  period  of  three  years. 

From  the  suddenness  of  its  onset  and  the  equal  suddenness  of  its  disappearance, 
together  with  its  remarkable  tendency  in  some  cases  to  come  on  in  paroxysms,  I  think 
that  the  explanation  is  to  be  found  in  the  study  of  the  neurotic  supply  of  the  kidney. 

It  is  remarkable,  too,  that  women  and  weakly  persons  are  seldom  affected.  It  seems 
to  be  confined  to  young,  healthy  individuals,  in  whom  there  is  great  muscular  waste.  It 
comes  on,  too,  after  a  long  spell  of  the  most  robust  health,  and  that  with  great  sudden- 
ness. I  think,  too,  that  it  is  a  disease  of  mountainous  regions.  It  does  occur  in  the 
lower  parts,  but  my  observation  leads  me  to  affirm  that  it  is  more  prevalent  in  hilly 
districts  in  the  centre  of  malarious  regions. 


APPENDIX    II. 
HINTS  AS  TO   OUTFIT  FOR  BRITISH   CENTRAL  AFRICA 

I.  Flannel  is  a  great  mistake  unless  it  is  mixed  with  a  large  proportion  of  silk.  Pure 
flannel  is  an  abomination  in  the  tropics.  Either  on  account  of  some  inherent  property  of 
the  wool,  or  probably  of  some  chemical  compound  with  which  it  is  prepared,  the  action 
of  perspiration  on  the  flannel  in  a  tropical  country  is  to  at  once  create  a  most  offensive 
smell,  even  in  persons  who  are  constantly  changing  their  clothes,  and  who  attend  to 
personal  cleanliness.  Moreover,  no  flannel  yet  invented  (all  advertisements  on  the 
subject  are  to  be  absolutely  disbelieved)  ever  failed  to  shrink  into  unwearableness  after, 
at  most,  the  third  washing.  Again,  the  feel  of  the  flannel  on  the  skin  in  a  warm  climate 
is  singularly  irritating  and  hurtful.  Persons  going  to  Africa  are  strongly  advised  to 
wear  not  flannel,  but  either  silk  and  wool  underclothing,  or  merino.  Merino  is  excellent. 
It  is  cleanly,  absolutely  odourless,  stands  any  amount  of  washing,  and  is  pleasant  in 
contact  with  the  skin.  Under  almost  all  circumstances  save  those  where  the  temperature 
rises  above  loo  degrees  in  the  shade,  a  merino  under-garment  should  always  be  worn 


\yb 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


"  Continuing  along  the  straight  road,  and  leaving  the  Government  buildings  to  the 
right,  you  cross  the  Mudi  stream  by  a  fine  bridge,^  built  by  the  African  Lakes  Company. 
On  the  other  side  of  the  Mudi  one  is  on  the  property  of  the  African  Lakes  Company 
which  is  a  large  suburb,  called  Mandala,  on  rising  ground,  from  which  a  fine  view  can  be 
obtained  of  the  Mission  settlement.     At  Mandala  there  are  many  houses  and  stores  and 

workshops  and  stables  —  all  very 
neatly  made  of  brick,  with  iron  roofs. 
There  are  handsome  roads  and 
gardens  and  a  perfect  forest  of 
eucalyptus.  The  company  has  ex- 
tensive nurseries  there  which  extend 
down  to  the  banks  of  the  Mudi,  and 
has  had  the  good  taste  to  preserve 
a  bit  of  the  old  forest  which  covered 
the  site  of  Blantyre  when  the 
missionaries  first  arrived.  This 
forest  chiefly  consisted  of  a  species 
of  acacia  tree  which  has  dense  dark 
green  foliage  in  flat  layers  giving  to 
it  at  a  distance  almost  the  appear 
ance  of  a  cedar.  Beyond  Mandala 
one  joins  the  main  road  to  Katunga, 
and  the  scenery  becomes  absolutely 
beautiful  as  you  mount  up  towards 
the  shoulder  of  Soche  mountain. 
Here  in  all  directions  there  is  a 
beautiful  forest,  and  the  views  in 
the  direction  of  the  Shire  river 
might  vie  with  the  average  pretty 
scenery  of  any  countr)'.  There  are 
still  numbers  of  coffee  plantations 
on  the  outskirts  of  Blantyre,  though 
the  tendency  of  the  planters  would 
naturally  be  to  keep  their  future 
plantations  farther  away  from  the 
vicinity  of  the  town.  The  natives  of 
Blantyre  are  a  rather  heterogeneous 
lot.  The  foundation  of  the  stock 
is  of  Mang'anja  race,  crossed  with 
Yao,  who  invaded  the  country  some  years  ago ;  but  for  many  years  refugees  from  other 
parts  of  the  Protectorate  have  been  gathering  round  the  Mission  station,  the  Lakes 
Company,  Sharrer's  Traffic  Company,  and  other  large  employers  of  labour,  all  of  whom 
have  brought  men  down  from  the  lakes  and  up  from  the  Zambezi,  who  have  gradually 
made  their  permanent  homes  at  Blantyre.  Morality  is  very  low,  and  although  they  are 
not  strikingly  dishonest  still  they  are  not  above  petty  pilfering,  and  the  coffee  plantations 
which  are  too  near  the  town  are  apt  to  have  their  berries  picked  by  the  black  Blantyre 
citizens  at  night,  and  the  coffee  thus  acquired  is  sent  out  and  sold  to  native  planters — 
for  some  of  the  educated  natives  and  small  chiefs  have  started  coffee  plantations. 

"Unfortunately,  the  water  supply  here  is  very  bad,  though  a  little  energy  would  set 
it  all  right.  There  is  the  Mudi  stream,  for  instance,  which  flows  perennially  without  much 
diminution,  even  in  the  dry  season  ;  but  the  upper  waters  of  the  Mudi  flow  through 
native  villages  and  the  settlements  of  the  missionary  scholars,  and  all  these  people  wash 
their  clothes  and  persons  in  the  river,  besides  emptying  into  it  all  kinds  of  filth.     The 

*  The  Mudi  is  crossed  higher  \x\i  by  another  bridge  which  the  Administration  has  just  made. — H.  H.  J. 


EUCALYFI'US  AVENUE,    ZOMBA 


THE   EUROPEAN    SETTLERS 


177 


result  is  that  its  waters  are  quite  unfit  for  drinking  purposes.  A  few  of  the  settlers  have 
wells,  but  all  of  these  except  two  seem  to  produce  slightly  brackish  unwholesome  water. 
Away  to  the  north  of  Blantyre  arises  another  very  fine  stream,  the  Likubula.  This  is 
rather  too  much  below  the  level  of  Blantyre  to  make  it  easy  to  convey  the  water  to  the 
township.     The  simplest  expedient  would  seem  to  be  the  purification  of  the  Mudi. 

**  But  if  the  Mudi  be  at  present  unwholesome  its  banks  are  charming  for  the  foliage 
of  the  trees  and  the  loveliness  of  the  wild  flowers.  I  would  notice  specially  one  crimson 
lily  which  gives  a  succession  of  flowers  for  many  months  of  the  year. 

**  And  yet  how  extraordinary  people  are  in  regard  to  wild  flowers  !  I  remember  when 
I  had  just  been  admiring  these  red  lilies  on  the  Mudi's  banks  I  went  to  dinner  with  one 
of  the  married  couples  in  Blantyre,  and  the  lady  of  the  house  apologised  to  me  for  the 
bareness  of  the  table,  complaining  that  her  garden  as  yet  produced  no  flowers.  Yet  she 
had  only  got  to  send  one  of  the  servants  out  to  the  banks  of  the  stream  and  to  the 
adjoining  fields  and  she  could  have  decked  her  table  with  red  lilies,  mauve,  orange,  and 
white  ground-orchids,  and  blue  bean  flowers  in  a  way  which  would  excite  anyone's  envy 
at  home. 

"  My  reference  to  *  married  couples  *  reminds  me  to  tell  you  that  a  good  many  of 
the  men  settled  here  are  married  and  their  wives  seem  to  stand  the  climate  as  well 
as  if  not  even  better  than  their  husbands,  because,  I  imagine,  they  are  exposed  less  to  the 
sun  and  do  not  have  so  much  outdoor  work.  Although  it  is  not  consistent  with  the 
duties  of  the  planter  still  it  is  borne  in  on  my  mind  that  the  healthiest  life  in  Central 
Africa  is  an  indoor  life.  People  who  keep  very  much  to  the  house  and  do  not  go  out 
or  go  far  afield  between  9  a.m.  and  4  p.m.  never  seem  to  get  fever.  At  the  same  time 
you  should  not  remain  out  after  sunset  as  you  are  apt  to  get  a  chill. 


I  do  not  know  whether  in  the  foregoing  extracts  from  supposititious 
letters  I  have  succeeded  in  giving  a  fairly  correct  idea  of  the  life  that  Europeans 
lead  under  present  conditions  in  British  Central  Africa.  More  will  be  said 
on  this  subject  in  dealing  with  the  Missionaries. 

For  the  trader  and  the  planter  I  think  it  may 
be  said  that  the  country  offers  sufficiently  sure  and 
rapid  profits  for  their  enterprise  to  compensate  the 
risk  run  in  the  matter  of  health.  The  various 
trading  companies  in  the  country  appear  to  be 
doing  well  with  an  ever-extending  business  and 
to  be  constantly  increasing  the  number  of  their 
establishments.  Even  traders  in  a  small  way,  if 
they  have  energy  and  astuteness,  may  reap  con- 
siderable earnings  with  relatively  small  outlay. 
One  man,  for  instance,  went  up  to  Kotakota  on 
Lake  Nyasa  with  a  few  hundreds  of  pounds  at  his 
disposal,  bought  a  large  number  of  cattle  at  a 
very  low  price  in  the  Marimba  district  and  pur- 
chased all  the  ivory  the  Arabs  at  Kotakota  had 
to  dispose  of,  and  on  his  total  transaction  made  a 
clear  profit  of  ;^20CX)  by  selling  the  cattle  and 
ivory  at  Blantyre ;  but  it  appears  to  me  that  as 
time  goes  on  the  European  trading  community 
will  be  limited  to  the  employes  of  two  or  three 
great  trading  companies  commanding  considerable  capital,  and  to  a  number 
of  British  Indians  who  will  not  in  any  way  conflict  with  the  commerce  of  the 
Europeans  because  they  will  often  act  as  the  middlemen  buying  up  small 
12 


1 88  BRITISH   CENTRAL   AFRICA 

Other  not,  so  that  in  the  left  barrel  bullet  cartridges  can,  if  necessary,  be  used,  as 
sometimes  when  one  is  out  after  guinea-fowl,  one  might  meet  a  lion  or  an  antelope. 
The  best  kinds  of  shot  are  Swan  shot ;  **  A. A.A.  ** ;  No.  i ;  No.  2  ;  and  No.  5.  No.  5  is 
useful  for  pigeons  and  similar  birds;  as  a  rule  however  most  African  birds  that  the 
average  man  wants  to  shoot  will  succumb  to  little  less  in  size  than  the  No.  2  shot.  It  will 
be  found  that  duck  require  either  No.  2  or  A.A.A.,  and  Swan  shot  is  useful  for  very  big 
water  birds  or  small  mammals.  For  the  average  individual  the  best  rifle  is  the  '450  single 
barrelled.  Some  people  speak  highly  of  the  Lee-Metford,  but  though  very  deadly  if 
the  bullet  comes  in  contact  with  the  bone,  its  cartridge  does  not  seem  to  have  the  same 
stopping  effect  where  it  merely  pierces  through  the  fleshy  parts.  A  Martini-Henry  is  a 
very  useful  weapon.  Elephant  rifles  are  quite  a  special  subject  in  themselves  and  the 
enquirer  is  referred  to  the  various  articles  which  have  appeared  on  the  subject  in  the  Fields 
or  have  been  written  by  Mr.  Selous  and  other  authorities.  The  revolver  is  not,  as  a  rule, 
a  very  useful  weapon,  except  for  accidentally  shooting  oneself. 

7.  Plenty  of  books  should  be  taken  for  reading.  The  traveller  will  miss  books 
terribly  if  he  is  much  alone  in  the  evenings.  Messrs.  Mudie  sell  at  a  very  cheap  rate 
library  books  that  have  been  some  three  months  in  circulation  and  all  the  great  pub- 
lishers nowadays  issue  cheap  "  Colonial "  editions  of  all  new  and  striking  books.  Maps 
of  B.  C.  A.  can  be  obtained  from  Mr.  J.  G.  Bartholomew,  Edinburgh,  and  Messrs. 
Stanford,  Cockspur  Street,  Charing  Cross. 

8.  Boxes. — No  leather  portmanteaus  or  wooden  boxes  should  be  taken,  as  they  are 
liable  to  the  attacks  of  white  ants,  and  also  suffer  from  the  damp  climate.  All  boxes 
should  be  of  tin.  The  Army  and  Navy  Stores  and  Messrs.  Silver  thoroughly  understand 
the  kind  wanted.  No  boxes  should  be  large  and  no  packages  should  weigh  more  than 
55  lbs.  on  account  of  the  porterage  on  men's  heads.  The  leather  valise  or  dressing  bag 
is  useful  and  permissible.  One  or  more  rugs  should  certainly  be  taken,  and  a  thoroughly 
waterproof  "  hold-all "  is  a  very  useful  thing.  Beds  and  tents  are  best  obtained  locally, 
as  the  right  kinds  are  for  sale  at  the  various  stores  ;  but  if  it  is  desired  to  take  one's  own 
tent  out  then  Messrs.  Benjamin  Edgington,  of  London  Bridge,  know  exactly  what  is 
required  for  Central  Africa,  and  can  be  thoroughly  depended  upon.  The  same  firm 
supplies  excellent  camp  furniture.  I  especially  recommend  their  folding  camp  tables. 
A  good  dispatch-box  is  very  useful,  and  Messrs.  Silver,  of  Comhill,  supply  very  good 
articles  of  this  description. 

8.  Sketching  materials. — If  the  traveller  intends  to  sketch  or  to  photograph  he  should 
get  his  materials  in  London,  as  they  are  amongst  the  few  things  that  cannot  be  purchased 
in  British  Central  Africa.  As  regards  sketching  materials,  Messrs.  Kemp  and  Co.,  near 
Victoria  Station,  S.W.,  have  for  a  long  time  past  been  in  the  habit  of  supplying  me  with 
what  is  required  for  Africa,  and  thoroughly  understand  the  subject ;  and  their  materials 
have  always  proved  to  be  suited  to  the  exigencies  of  the  climate. 

9.  Provisions  of  all  kinds  are  much  better  purchased  at  the  stores  in  British  Central 
Africa ;  almost  the  same  may  be  said  for  drugs,  but  a  small  private  medicine  chest  is  not 
a  bad  thing,  and  can  be  procured  from  Messrs.  Burroughs  and  Wellcome,  of  Holborn. 

I  think  this  constitutes  almost  all  the  things  which  the  average  traveller  should 
burden  himself  with  before  leaving  England  for  British  Central  Africa.  It  must  be 
remembered  that  the  better  extreme  to  go  to  of  the  two  is  to  buy  too  little  rather  than 
too  much,  as  many  more  things  can  be  procured  locally  than  one  would  generally 
suppose,  and  the  prices  at  the  stores  in  British  Central  Africa,  compared  to  Matabeleland 
and  the  inner  parts  of  South  Africa,  are  very  reasonable,  on  account  of  the  cheapness 
of  transport  and  the  low  Customs  duties.  Moreover  it  is  not  until  a  man  is  already 
established  in  Central  Africa  that  he  realises  his  own  wants.  He  is  then  able  to  write 
home  and  order  such  things  as  he  specially  requires. 


m.  ;,&■ 


/^ 


mmmm 


CHAPTER    VII. 
MISSIONARIES. 

THERE  are  at  present  eight  Missionary  Societies  at  work  in  the  eastern 
half  of  British  Central  Africa^  :— 
I.  The  Universities  Mission,  which  is  Anglican,  occupies  the  eastern 
shore  of  Lake  Nyasa,  the  islands  of  Likoma  and  Chisumula,  and  has  a  station 
at  Fort  Johnston  at  the  south  end  of  the  lake.  The  same  mission  is  also 
strongly  established  at  Kotakota  in  the  Marimba  district  on  the  south-west 
coast  of  Lake  Nyasa.  They  are  probably  about  to  build  a  large  station  at  or 
near  Fort  Mangoche  in  Zarafi's  country.  Outside  British  territory  they  have 
(besides  their  stations  in  Eastern  Africa)  an  establishment  on  the  plateau  of 
Unango  in  Portuguese  Nyasaland.  This  mission  is  presided  over  by  Dr.  Hine, 
Bishop  of  Likoma. 

2.  The  Livingstonia  Mission  of  the  Free  Church  of  Scotland  occupies  the 
western  and  north-western  parts  of  the  Protectorate. 

3.  The  Church  of  Scotland  East  African  Mission,  better  known  perhaps  as 
the  "  Blantyre  Mission,"  has  stations  in  the  Shire  Highlands. 

4.  The  London  Missionary  Society  (Independents  or  Wesleyans)  has  been 
long  established  on  Lake  Tanganyika.  Its  settlements  are  now  confined  to  the 
British  coast  of  that  lake  and  to  the  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau  southwards,  but 
I  believe  they  will  be  opening  shortly  a  station  on  Lake  Mweru. 

5.  The  Algerian  Mission  of  the  White  Fathers  (Roman  Catholic),  besides 
being  represented  by  many  stations  on  German  or  Belgian  territory  in  the 
Tanganyika  district,  has  recently  established  itself  on  the  Nyasa-Tanganyika 
plateau  and  at  one  or  two  places  in  the  Luemba  country  in  the  valley  of  the 
Chambezi. 

6.  The  Dutch  Reformed  Church  Mission  (Dutch  Calvinists),  originally  a 
branch  of  the  Livingstonia  Mission,  has  been  established  for  some  years  in 
Central  and  Southern  Angoniland. 

7.  The  Zambezi  Industrial  Mission  (Undenominational)  works  in  Southern 
Angoniland  in  the  Shire  province. 

8.  The  Nyasa  Baptist  Industrial  Mission  (Baptist)  has  stations  in  the 
Blantyre  district. 

In  addition  to  this  might  almost  be  included  the  Jesuit  Mission  on  the 
Zambezi,  which  was  until  recently  established  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  Mlanje 
district.  Their  stations  were  attacked  and  destroyed  by  the  Yao  chief, 
Matipwiri,  who  was  subsequently  punished  for  this  action  by  the  Administration, 
and  is  now  exiled  to  Port  Herald  on  the  Lower  Shire.  It  is  therefore  expected 
that  the  Jesuit  Missionaries  on  the  Zambezi  will  recommence  their  work  in  the 
south-eastern  portion  of  the  British  Central  Africa  Protectorate. 

*  For  Map  showing  Mission  Stations  see  page  392. 
189 


I90  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

The  enumeration  of  the  Missionary  Societies  at  work  in  the  whole  of  British 
Central  Africa  might  be  completed  by  citing  the  Jesuits  on  the  Central  Zambezi, 
and  the  French  Evangelical  Mission  which  has  been  so  long  and  successfully  at 
work  in  the  Barutse  country  on  the  Upper  Zambezi. 

A  Missionary  Society  originally  founded  by  F.  S.  Arnot  (Plymouth  Brethren) 
has  been  for  some  years  past  established  in  Katanga,  in  the  south  part  of  the 
Congo  Free  State.  This  mission,  I  believe,  contemplates  founding  stations  on 
Lake  Mweru  within  British  territory,  and  I  believe  it  has  three  stations  on  or 
near  the  River  Kafue  in  Eastern  Barutseland. 

The  past  history  of  the  more  important  and  longest  established  Missions  has 
been  touched  on  in  the  general  review  of  the  history  of  British  Central  Africa, 
Further  details  concerning  the  number  of  their  stations,  the  attendances  at  their 
schools  and  churches  and  other  technical  information  is  given  in  my  report  to 
the  Foreign  Office,  "Africa  No.  5,  1896,"  and  it  would  be  tedious  to  repeat  the 
statistics  here.  I  will  confine  myself  in  the  present  chapter  to  treating  all 
missionary  work  in  this  part  of  Central  Africa  in  a  more  generalised  manner, 
giving  my  impres§ipns  as  the  opinions  of  any  ordinary,  fair-minded  individual 
who  wishes  to  arrive  at  true  conclusions  uninfluenced  by  sentiment  or 
prejudice. 

No  person  who  desires  to  make  a  truthful  statement  would  deny  the  great 
good  effected  by  missionary  enterprise  in  Central  Africa.  Yet  why  is  it  that  in 
some  quarters  missionaries  are  heartily  disliked,  and  the  benefit  of  their  work 
is  denied  or  depreciated,  even  occasionally  by  clerics  who,  from  a  religious  point 
of  view,  should  be  their  natural  supporters?  If,  on  the  one  hand,  the  impartial 
observer  must  pronounce  a  verdict  regarding  the  value  of  missionary  work  in 
Central  Africa  which  is  almost  wholly  in  its  favour,  on  the  other  hand  he  is 
compelled  to  ackowledge  the  existence  of  the  prejudice  and  dislike  with  which 
missionaries  are  regarded  by  other  white  men  not  following  the  same  career. 

The  causes  of  this  feeling  in  my  opinion  are  two — (1)  The  Cant  which  by 
some  unaccountable  fatality  seems  to  be  inseparably  connected  with  missionary 
work,  and  (2)  the  arrogant  demeanour  often  assumed  by  missionaries  towards 
men  who  are  not  of  their  manner  of  thought  and  practice,  though  not  necessarily 
men  of  evil  life. 

I  think  these  two  causes  exist  still,  and  were  so  prominent  in  past  times  that 
they  are  quite  sufficient  to  account  for  what  is  really  a  long  continued  and 
unreasonable  aspersion  of  the  value  of  missionary  work.  It  will  be  seen  from 
the  tenour  of  my  remarks  that  I  am  striving  to  write  on  this  difficult  question 
from  the  point  of  view  of  an  absolutely  impartial  outsider — let  us  say,  for 
a  moment,  from  the  point  of  view  of  one  who  might  be  of  any  religion,  or  none 
at  all.  I  take  up  this  position  because  I  honestly  believe  that  much  of  the  work 
done  by  European  missionaries  in  Africa  is  of  a  kind  which  can  be  appreciated 
and  praised  without  reserve  by  any  fair-minded  Muslim,  Hindu,  or  Agnostic. 
Any  thoughtful  cultured  man  of  no  matter  what  religion,  who  is  alive  to 
the  interests  of  humanity  in  general,  must  after  careful  examination  of  their 
work  accord  this  meed  of  praise  to  the  results  which  have  followed  the  attempts 
to  evangelise  Central  Africa. 

Let  us  take  into  consideration  the  first  count  of  the  indictment  against 
missionaries  :  Cant.  Although  matters  have  much  improved  under  this  heading 
since  the  "  forties,"  when  Cant  reached  an  appalling  pitch,  and  accounts  weie 
written  of  missionary  work  which  are  cLlmost  too  repulsive  for  modem 
taste   on    that   account   (driving    even    sincere    Christians    into   ribaldry   and 


MISSIONARIES 


191 


parody,  as  a  natural  relief),  cant  still  exists,  as  can  be  seen  by  anyone 
who  reads  most  missionary  journals  and  hears  many  missionaries  discourse. 
It  exists  ordinarily  amongst  the  rawest  and  newest  of  missionaries  and  in 
the  youngest  of  the  missionary  societies.  In  such  missions  as  those  of 
the  Universities,  the  Church  of  Scotland  and  the  Livingstonia  Free  Church, 
cant  is  extinct  to  a  great  extent  locally,  though  it  still  lingers  in  the  home 
compilations,  in  the  journals  which  professedly  give  an  account  of  the  work  of 
these  establishments  and  which  are  published  for  home  consumption.  Sincere 
friends  of  mission  work,  such 
as  Robert  Needham  Cust  and 
Canon  Isaac  Taylor,  have  at 
times  expressed  their  wonder- 
ment that  missionaries  should 
think  it  right  or  necessary  to 
attach  to  descriptions  of  their 
work  given  verbally  or  in  writing 
such  expressions  of  mawkish 
piety,  and  so  many  statements 
which  are  an  insidious  perversion 
of  the  truth.  In  the  latter  case 
I  can  only  imagine  it  is  done  on 
the  assumption  once  attributed 
to  the  Jesuits,  that  it  is  right  to 
do  evil  that  good  may  come: 
that  the  missionaries  are  as  con- 
vinced as  I  am  of  the  ultimate 
good  they  effect,  and  that  to 
encourage  the  British  public  to 
find  funds  for  the  carrying  on  of 
such  work  they  think  it  excus- 
able or  even  lawful  to  "gammon" 
them,  if  I  may  put  it  vulgarly, 
to  repeat  speeches  of  high-flown 
piety,  on  the  part  of  savage  and 
uncultured  converts,  which  could 
not  have  been  uttered  with 
serious  consciousness  of  their 
meaning,  and,  indeed,  could 
never  have  been  formulated 
from  such  poor  arrested  brains. 

Then  again — especially  in  the  case  of  newly-formed  missionary  societies 
who,  in  the  rush  of  unreasoning  enthusiasm  have  embarked  on  African 
evangelisation  without  counting  the  cost  or  making  the  necessary  preparations 
— articles  too  profane  to  be  quoted  are  written  of  how  God  has  taken  to  Himself 
"  dear  Sister  So-and-so "  or  "  Brother  Somebody-else,"  to  "  cherish  them  on 
high"  and  give  them  a  reward  for  their  labours,  as  if  there  had  been  a 
special  intervention  of  providence,  when  to  the  outside  observer  it  is  obvious 
that  the  sister  or  brother  would  never  have  died  or  even  been  ill  if  he  or 
she  had  been  properly  housed  or  properly  fed.  My  indictment  on  this  score 
is  not  half  strong  enough.  I  kept  by  me  at  one  time  the  journals  and  records 
of    certain    missionary    societies,    intending    to    quote    them    in    some    such 


1.  BISHOP   HORNBY    (FORMERLY   OF   NVASALAND) 

2.  THE  LATE   BISHOP   MAPLES,   OF   LIKOMA 


192  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

book  as  this:  a  few  months  ago,  however,  I  tore  them  up,  as  they  were  not 
wholesome  literature,  and  perhaps  I  should  have  been  flogging  a  dead  horse 
in  laying  bare  to  the  public  this  awful  accumulation  of  Cant,  when  I  knew  such 
cant  to  be  as  strongly  condemned  as  I  can  condemn  it  by  missionaries  of  old 
standing,  and  when  I  began  to  see  so  many  signs  of  its  rapid  disappearance. 
Missionary  work  in  British  Central  Africa,  believe  me,  has  only  to  tell  the  plain 
truth  and  nothing  but  the  truth  to  secure  sympathy  and  support  Let  the 
societies  cease  to  humbug  the  people,  let  them  tell  frankly  of  their  trials,  their 
sorrows,  their  disappointments,  as  well  as  of  their  successes,  and  the  sympathy 
created  by  the  truthful  picture  which  will  then  be  rendered  of  the  great  struggle 
against  spiritual  darkness  and  savagery  will  be  far  stronger  than  the  limited 
support  which  is  accorded  in  sectarian  circles,  when  the  vulgarest  and  coarsest 
instincts  of  the  unlettered  Christian  are  appealed  to  by  the  aid  of  stupid 
falsehoods,  lies  of  that  worst  kind  which  are  usually  founded  on  a  substratum 
of  truth. 

The  second  complaint  against  missionaries  is  on  the  score  of  their  arrogant 
demeanour.  Some  of  the  average  European  pioneers  are  not,  I  am  sorry  to 
say,  very  creditable  specimens  of  mankind.  They  are  aggressively  ungodly, 
they  put  no  check  on  their  lusts  ;  released  from  the  restraints  of  civilisation  and 
the  terror  of  "  what  people  may  say,"  they  are  capable  of  almost  any  degree  of 
wickedness  ;  but  the  missionary  is  too  apt  to  assume  that  all  new  Europeans 
with  whom  he  comes  in  contact  are  of  this  class,  and  that  because  they  do  not 
belong  to  a  mission  they  are  necessarily  wicked  men ;  and  he  shows  this  so 
plainly  in  his  manner  that  the  result  is  naturally  a  reciprocal  suspicion  and 
dislike  on  the  part  of  the  stranger  layman.  There  is  an  undoubted  tendency 
on  the  part  of  missionaries  to  hold  and  set  forth  the  opinion  that  no  one  ever 
did  any  good  in  Africa  but  themselves.  That  they  have  done  more  good  than 
armies,  navies,  conferences  and  treaties  have  yet  done,  I  am  prepared  to  admit ; 
that  they  have  prepared  the  way  for  the  direct  and  just  rule  of  European 
Powers  and  for  the  extension  of  sound  and  honest  commerce  I  have  frequently 
asserted  ;  but  they  are  themselves  to  some  extent  only  a  passing  phase,  only 
the  John-the-Baptists,  the  forerunners  of  organized  churches  and  settled  social 
politics.  It  is  their  belief  that  they  hold  an  always  privileged  position,  that 
they  are  never  to  fit  into  their  proper  places  in  an  organized  European  com- 
munity, which  causes  so  much  friction  between  them  and  the  other  European 
settlers  or  lay  officials  by  whom  they  are  gradually  being  far  outnumbered  ;  nor 
are  they  always  ready  to  recognise  that  there  is  some  credit  due  to  the 
missionaries  of  commerce  as  well  as  to  the  missionaries  of  religion ;  that  the 
savage  man  cannot  live  decently  by  faith  alone ;  that  he  must  have  something 
to  occupy  his  mind  besides  religion,  and  that  unless  his  attention  is  drawn  to 
hard  work  and  to  gaining  money  in  an  honest  manner,  "  Satan  will  find  some 
mischief  still  for  his  idle  hands  to  do." 

Now  let  me  leave  off  preaching  and  try  to  give  my  readers  some  idea  of 
what  missionary  life  is  like  in  Central  Africa,  always  from  the  point  of  view 
of  the  lay  traveller  and  dispassionate  investigator.^ 

Try,  reader,  to  imagine  yourself  in  the  position  of  some  weary  man  travelling 
in  Central  Africa  on  Government  business,  or  as  a  pioneer  trader,  or  engaged  in 

^  To  do  this  I  find  m)rself  obliged  to  quote  to  some  extent  from  an  article  on  Missionaries  which  I 
wrote  for  the  Nineteenth  Century  Review  of  November,  1887,  but  which,  though  ten  years  old,  still  gives 
what  I  believe  to  be  such  a  faithful  general  picture  of  the  average  missionary  home  in  Central  Africa  that 
in  some  passages  I  find  it  difficult  to  describe  the  same  in  other  language. 


MISSIONARIES  193 

natural  history  research,  or  merely  for  the  sake  of  exploration  or  sport.  You 
have  just  quitted  the  slightly  civilised  coast-belt  for  the  little  known  and 
savage  interior,  and  you  may  have  sickened  with  the  first  touch  of  fever.  With 
all  the  enthusiasm  for  exploration  which  leads  most  white  men  into  this  un- 
healthy but  fascinating  continent,  you  feel  temporarily  depressed  and  saddened 
at  the  snapping  of  all  ties  which  bind  you  to  the  world  of  culture  and  comfort : 
your  new  tent  is  leaky  and  lets  in  the  rain,  or  it  fails  to  mitigate  the  blazing 
heat  of  noontide;  your  untried  cook  cannot  at  once  acquire  the  art  of  pro- 
ducing a  decent  meal  amid  the  many  difficulties  of  camp  life ;  you  have  long 
ceased  to  eat  bread,  or  the  fragments  of  mouldy  toast  that  may  be  served  up 
to  you  are  piteous  relics  of  the  pleasant  sojourn  at  some  relatively  civilised 
town  on  the  coast  whence  you  started. 

Or,  it  may  be,  the  circumstances  under  which  you  are  travelling  are 
somewhat  different.  You  are  at  the  end  of  some  great  journey,  some  expedi- 
tion which  has  had  its  moments  of  exhilarating  success,  of  wonderful  discovery, 
but  now  the  excitement  is  over  and  is  succeeded  by  a  dull  apathy  that  is  almost 
despair:  you  no  longer  anticipate  with  a  joy  that  can  scarcely  be  outwardly 
repressed  the  pleasures  which  are  about  to  reward  your  months  of  toil,  privation 
and  danger — the  first  night's  sleep  in  a  comfortable  and  spacious  bed,  the 
first  well-cooked  meal  into  which  you  will  crowd  all  your  favourite  delicacies, 
the  first  good  concert  or  theatre  you  will  attend ;  you  are  weary  of  running 
over  in  your  mind  the  public  dinners  that  may  be  given  to  you  or  the  praises 
of  scientific  societies  which  will  reward  your  discoveries ;  you  merely  confine 
yourself  to  reflecting  dully  on  the  probabilities  of  reaching  your  destination 
alive  and  of  doubting  whether  under  any  circumstances,  and  especially  the 
present  ones,  life  is  worth  living.  In  either  case,  whether  your  work  lies 
behind  you,  finished,  or  before  you,  to  be  accomplished,  you  jog  along  the 
narrow  winding  path,  tired,  alone,  heart-sick,  home-sick,  your  sore  and  weary 
feet  tripping  over  stocks  and  stones,  your  aching  eyes  fixed  on  the  ground, 
seeing  nothing,  your  face  scorched  with  the  hot  wind,  your  hands  scratched 
with  the  grass  blades  that  have  to  be  continually  pushed  aside  in  your  dogged 
progress.  Perhaps  even  you  may  be  enduring  worse  discomfort,  you  may  be 
drenched  to  the  skin — macintosh  notwithstanding — in  some  torrential  downpour; 
and  overweighted  with  your  heavy,  streaming  rain-coat,  you  stagger  along  half 
blindly  through  slushy  mud  and  soaked  vegetation.  Then  you  hear  your  guide 
saying  to  someone  that  he  recognises  the  district,  that  the  white  man's  house  is 
near  at  hand.  "What  white  man?"  you  ask  apathetically,  too  weary  to  show 
an  interest  in  anything.  "  People  of  the  Mission,"  the  guide  replies,  and  then 
if  you  only  know  of  this  modern  type  of  evangelist  by  tradition  you  will  smile 
bitterly  and  say  to  yourself,  "  Oh,  a  missionary !  H'm,  I  don't  feel  much  in 
a  mood  to  pray  or  sing  hymns  just  now ! "  Then  you  continue  plodding  on 
in  stupid  resignation  to  whatever  fate  awaits  you. 

I  will  suppose,  to  make  this  picture  more  effective,  that  it  is  now  late 
afternoon.  The  sun — if  it  is  the  sun  that  has  chiefly  troubled  you  during 
the  day's  march — is  at  last  sinking  behind  an  imposing  clump  of  forest  trees, 
and  the  fierce  heat  of  noon  is  beginning  to  be  tempered  by  the  rising  breeze. 
Or  the  murky  rain  clouds  are  drifting  away  in  ragged,  piled  up  masses  to 
the  east,  leaving  a  large  space  of  the  western  heavens  clear ;  and  this  expanse 
of  open  sky  has  become  a  pale  lemon-yellow  through  the  diffused  misty  glory 
of  the  declining  sun.  The  surrounding  country  has  a  more  pleasing  appear- 
ance.    Here  and  there  in  the  distance  are  bright  green  and  yellow  patches 


194 


BRITISH    CENTRAL    AFRICA 


diversifying  the  grey  scrub  and  sombre  forest,  and  these  clearly  indicate  the 
existence  of  plantations,  while  the  vicinity  of  man  is  proved  by  occasional 
puffs  and  spirals  of  blue  smoke  where  the  natives  are  burning  weeds.  The 
path,  too,  is  clearer,  wider,  and  better  made ;  the  obtrusive  wayside  vegetation 
has  been  checked  and  no  longer  impedes  your  progress.  Then  you  begin  to 
meet  occasional  inhabitants  of  the  distant  unseen  settlements— women  with 
babies  slung  on  their  backs  and  earthen  pitchers  poised  on  their  heads  on 
their  way  to  the  spring  to  obtain  their  evening  supply  of  water;  or  men 
returning  from  the  chase  armed  with  long- barrelled  ancient -looking  guns, 
spears,  assegais,  or  clubs,  and  accompanied  by  several  snarling  curs,  whose 
collars  are  hung  with  little  bells.  To  your  surprise,  instead  of  plunging 
terror  stricken  into  the  bush  or  assuming  a  defiant  and  hostile  attitude,  each 

native  greets  you  politely  with 
"  Morning !  Goo*  morning !  *'  for 
they  have  learned  from  the  mis- 
sionaries our  matutinal  salutation, 
which  they  indifferently  make  use 
of  at  all  hours  of  the  day  and 
night.  On  each  side  of  the  widened 
road  a  straggling  row  of  young 
plantain  trees  begins  to  make  its 
appearance,  evidently  planted  with 
the  view  of  its  forming  ultimately 
a  shady  avenue:  then  behind  a 
wooden  fence  appear  thriving 
plantations  of  vegetables  and 
hedges  of  pine-apples,  and  at  last, 
a  turn  in  the  road  brings  into 
view  a  garden  of  flowers  and 
flowering  shrubs  —  blazing  with 
brilliant  masses  of  colour — and  a  long,  low-built  dwelling  house  of  one  storey, 
with  white-washed  walls,  green  window  shutters,  and  a  wide  overhanging  roof 
of  thatch  forming  a  verandah  round  the  building.  Behind  the  house  are  other 
dwellings  of  a  humbler  architecture,  more  or  less  hidden  with  green  shrubs 
and  trees ;  and  further  in  the  background  is  a  huge  barn-like  building,  also 
white-washed  and  with  a  thatched  roof,  but  having  about  it  an  indefinably 
ecclesiastical  air,  and  this  .is  certain  to  be  a  church,  possibly  used  as  a  school 
also  during  the  week. 

As  you  are  toiling  up  the  red  path  towards  the  house,  taking  in  all  these 
details  with  slow  and  tired  comprehension,  there  comes  towards  you,  half 
striding,  half  running,  a  white  man  whose  outward  presentment  is  something 
like  the  building  you  have  taken  for  a  chapel — a  sort  of  compromise  between 
homely  rusticity  and  ecclesiastical  primness.  Probably  he  wears  a  large 
soft,  grey  felt  hat  with  a  broad  brim,  a  crumpled  white  tie,  a  long  grey 
clerical  coat,  cut  close  up  to  the  neck,  grey  breeches  and  gaiters,  and  heavy 
boots.  His  face  has  homely  features,  but  it  is  pleasantly  lit  up  with  an 
expression  of  hearty  kindliness. 

Behind  your  new  acquaintance  —  who  has  introduced  himself  to  you  as 
the  agent  of  some  well-known  British  Protestant  mission — follow  half-a-dozen 
loutish  boys,  mostly  clad  in  gay  coloured  jerseys  or  shirts,  with  Manchester 
cottons    round    their    lower    limbs,   one   or   two    more    favoured    ones    being 


NATIVE   CHURCH    AT   MSUMBA,    LAKE   NYASA 

(t'NIVEKSlTIES   mission) 


MISSIONARIES  195 

hideously  clothed  in  coats  and  trousers.  These  lads  have  lost  the  easy- 
carriage  and  independent  bearing  of  the  unsophisticated  native,  and  shuffle 
and  slouch  along  in  a  lazy,  loose-jointed  manner  that  is  a  distinct  irritation 
to  a  person  of  energetic,  active  temperament,  and  their  semi-circular  grin  as 
they  lounge  up  to  you  with  a  loud  greeting  produces  on  your  part  an 
involuntary  frown  rather  than  an  answering  smile.  In  a  half-hearted  manner 
they  relieve  your  foremost  porters  of  their  burdens,  and  the  straggling 
procession  proceeds  on  its  way  up  the  red  clay  path  and  through  the  flower 
garden  towards  the  house.  It  is  probable  that  at  the  head  of  the  steps 
leading  to  the  raised  verandah,  the  missionary's  wife  awaits  you,  clasping  and 
unclasping  her  hands,  and  letting  her  smile  wax  and  wane  as  your  slow 
approach  through  the  garden  gives  her  a  slightly  nervoqs  feeling  of  conscious 
expectancy.  Involuntarily  her  hand  goes  to  her  throat — yes !  the  gold  locket 
is  there ;  she  has  not  forgotten  it.  She  glances  at  the  little  bouquet  of 
flowers  in  her  bosom — how  quickly  they  are  fading  in  the  hot  air!  She 
smoothes  the  crumpled  pale  blue  ribbons  that  give  her  homely  dress  an 
almost  pathetic  remembrance  of  former  smartness,  and  pulls  out  the  sleeve 
puff's  ;  touches  her  hair  to  ascertain  its  smoothness  ;  shakes  out  the  limp 
folds  of  her  skirt ;  clears  her  throat ;  calls  up  the  smile  again,  now  that  you 
are  close,  and  finally  loses  all  affectation  when  she  takes  your  hand  and 
gazes  into  your  pale,  tired,  spiritless  face,  and. in  a  burst  of  womanly  pity 
bids  you  welcome,  and  hurries  away  to  make  arrangements  for  your  comfort. 

When  you  have  bathed  and  changed  your  clothes,  a  pleasant  languor 
succeeds  your  crushing  fatigue.  The  missionary's  wife  is  busy  in  her 
household,  devising  additions  to  the  evening  meal ;  the  missionary  has 
excused  himself,  and  is  gone  to  wind  up  the  school  affairs,  and  dismiss  the 
scholars  from  the  chapel.  You  are  left  for  a  short  time  in  not  unwelcome 
solitude.  As  you  sit  in  the  porch,  gazing  dreamily  on  the  glowing  sunset, 
and  inhaling  the  strong,  sweet,  mingled  perfume  of  the  nicotianas,  frangipanis, 
mignonette,  and  lilies  in  the  garden,  your  ears  catch  the  shrill,  clear  voices 
of  children  singing  five  verses  of  an  evening  hymn.  Were  you  with  them 
in  the  building,  the  glib  utterance,  thin  melody,  and  nasal  twang  of  the 
performance  would  jar  upon  you ;  as  it  is,  here,  softened  by  distance,  it 
strikes  a  sweet  note  in  the  unruffled  harmony  of  your  surroundings.  From 
the  native  village,  half  hidden  among  the  tall  umbrageous  trees,  which  stand 
out  in  velvet  blackness  against  the  western  sky,  comes  the  faint  murmur  of 
voices  ;  and  an  occasional  laugh  of  the  women  and  girls,  returning  with  their 
pitchers  from  the  water-course,  echoes  pleasantly  through  the  air.  In  the 
yellow-flowered  thorn  hedge  at  the  bottom  of  the  garden  a  bulbul  ^  is  piping 
and  warbling  his  mellow  notes.  You  feel  enveloped  in  an  atmosphere  of 
peace,  which  is  doubly  refreshing  because  of  its  contrast  to  the  weary  tenour 
of  your  past  life. 

The  loud  clanging  of  the  school  bell  disturbs  your  reverie.  The 
missionary  is  once  more  at  your  side  with  many  excuses  for  having  for  a 
brief  while  left  you  to  your  own  devices.  The  evening  meal  is  announced, 
and  you  follow  your  host  to  the  dining  -  room,  or,  rather,  the  one  large 
sitting-room  of  his  house.  Here  his  wife,  seated  at  the  table  before  an  ample 
tea-tray,  welcomes  you  to  the  repast,  and  perhaps  adds  a  quite  unnecessary 
apology   for   its   character.     As   you    unfold   your  clean    napkin,  you   glance 

'  Pycnonotus,  In  parts  of  the  Shire  Highlands  and  other  mountainous  districts  there  are  thrushes 
that  sing  sweetly. 


196  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

over  the  table  and  are  quite  satisfied  with  your  present  lot.  There  is,  for 
instance,  to  open  the  repast,  a  tureen  of  good  chicken  soup ;  and  a  cold  pigeon 
pie,  a  rolled  tongue,  sardines,  and  boiled  ^gs  are  other  items.  There 
are  dishes  of  home-grown  potatoes  baked  in  their  skins,  and  golden  slices  of 
fried  plantain.  A  superb  pineapple  imparts  its  fragrance  to  the  mingled 
odours  of  the  steaming  tea  and  the  savoury  broth.  Little  glass  dishes  of 
luscious  jams  and  sweet  biscuits  fill  up  spare  gaps  in  between  the  pieces  de 
rhistance,  and  it  is  probable  that  a  few  bright  flowers  in  a  slender  vase  give 
a  grace  to  the  outspread  meal  which  clearly  indicates  feminine  supervision. 
When  your  thoughts  and  your  gazi?  are  wandering  thus,  you  see  your  hostess 
suddenly  pause  in  the  tea-outpouring,  and  lower  her  head  and  clasp  her  hands, 
while  your  host,  who  has  once  or  twice  endeavoured  to  arrest  your  attention, 
rises  somewhat  bashfully  and  pronounces  a  brief  benediction  on  the  repast. 
Then,  this  duty  over,  he  serves  and  carves  and  cuts  with  a  will.  If  you  are 
a  man  of  any  tact,  and  desire  to  administer  a  little  harmless  flattery  to  your 
kind  hosts,  you  will  compliment  your  hostess  on  her  delicious  tea.  Then 
she  will  tell  you  of  the  difficulties  which  attend  the  procuring  of  fresh  milk 
in  Africa,  and  of  how,  in  her  case,  these  difficulties  have  been  met  and 
conquered.  She  will  enumerate  her  nanny-goats,  and  describe  the  vagaries 
of  her  half-wild  cow.  And  you  must  especially  dwell  on  the  excellence 
of  the  cold  pigeon-pie.  This  will  no  doubt  elicit  from  your  hostess  the 
avowal — with  a  little  blushing — that  she  herself  made  it.  Her  husband  shot 
the  pretty  green  fruit-pigeons — "  poor  little  things !  it  seems  a  shame,  doesn't 
it?" — and  she  made  the  pie-crust.  "You  know  the  native  girls  can  learn  to 
cook  most  things,  but  they  never  can  be  taught  to  make  pastry,  so  I  always 
go  into  the  kitchen  and  do  that  myself." 

When  the  meal  is  over,  you  are  doubtless  made  to  take  the  easiest  chair, 
which  is  drawn  up  to  the  open  brick  fire-place,  where  fragrant  logs  are 
burning.  You  really  feel  permeated  with  comfort,  while  gratitude  for  the 
kindness  shown  you  lends,  or  ought  to  lend,  a  brighter  look  to  your  eyes 
and  a  more  sympathetic  tone  to  your  voice.  The  missionary's  wife  has 
taken  up  some  needlework  to  occupy  her  fingers.  Her  husband,  out  of 
politeness,  is  sitting  idle  with  his  hands  before  him,  trying  to  make  con- 
versation ;  but  if  you  question  him  adroitly,  you  will  soon  find  out  that  he 
has  some  hobby  that  he  rides,  some  favourite  pursuit  that  he  follows  in  his 
leisure  time.  Perhaps  it  is  the  study  of  the  native  language;  and  on  your 
expressing  an  encouraging  interest,  he  will  bring  out  delightedly  his  bulky 
manuscript  vocabularies  and  chatter  to  you  of  prefixes  and  suffixes  and 
infixes,  of  clicks  and  nasals,  guttural  -  labials,  aspirated  sibilants,  and  faucal 
sounds — all  the  cacophony  of  barbarous  tongues.  Or  you  will  discover  that 
his  passion  is  entomology,  and  a  very  little  persuasion  will  induce  him  to 
open  his  boxes  and  tins,  redolent  of  camphor,  and  to  fetch  down  from  his 
study- shelves  his  spirit -jars,  and  to  display  before  your  somewhat  wearied 
'  gaze  a  bewildering  collection  of  insect  forms  —  beetles  big  as  mice,  and 
gorgeously  clad  in  golden-green  and  chestnut-brown,  tiny  jewel-like  beetles 
caught  in  the  calyces  of  orchids,  fantastic  longicorns.  clumsy  scarabs,  lovely 
chafers,  brilliant  cantharides,  all  the  coleopterous  forms  of  the  surrounding 
district.  He  will  recall  your  wandering  attention  to  a  marvellous  mantis, 
mimicking  a  large  green  leaf  to  perfection,  or  assuming  the  form  and 
appearance  of  a  dry  branching  twig.  He  will  show  you  butterflies  from  the 
forest    which,   when    their    wings    are    folded,   can   scarcely    be    distinguished 


MISSIONARIES  197 

from  a  dead  leaf,  or  other  splendid  Papilionidce  of  the  tropics  not  afraid  to 
exhibit  their  beauties  openly,  and  revelling  in  the  display  of  brilliant  colours, 
attractive  markings,  and  eccentric  shapes.  Then  will  follow  for  your 
inspection  rows  of  bugs,  scarlet  and  green,  yellow  and  black ;  repulsive 
cicadas  with  huge  stupid  heads  and  disgusting  fat  bodies,  giving  a  nasty 
oily  odour  which  even  the  camphor  cannot  suppress;  dapper-looking  grass- 
hoppers, neatly  and  prettily  coloured  ;  and  dragon  -  flies  with  gauzy  wings, 
some  purple-blue,  some  orange,  others  umber-brown  or  crimson. 

If  you  are  not  reviewing  insects  or  discussing  languages,  you  may  be  turning 
over  portfolios  of  dried  plants;  or  it  is  birds  that  the  missionary  shoots  and 
skins,  or  geological  specimens  that  he  collects,  or  he  may  even  concentrate  his 
interest  exclusively  within  the  narrow  domain  of  spiders  or  land  shells.  What- 
ever his  hobby  may  be,  having  once  started  him  off,  it  is  hard  to  arrest  him, 
and  with  the  best  intentions  you  find  yourself  after  a  little  while  arduously 
acting  an  interest  you  cease  to  feel,  and  paralysing  the  muscles  of  your  jaws 
with  suppressed  yawns.  The  missionary's  wife  detects  your  fatigue.  Long  use 
has  accustomed  her  to  regard  her  husband's  favourite  pursuit  with  indulgent 
unconcern;  so  rising,  and  gathering  her  needlework  together,  she  says,  "John, 
it  is  time  for  prayers;  I  am  sure  Mr.  So-and-so  must  be  tired."  The  obedient 
husband  assents,  puts  away  with  a  sigh  his  manuscripts,  or  his  collections,  and 
goes  outside  into  the  verandah,  to  ring  the  bell.  Then  he  returns  with  un  visage 
de  circonstancey  gets  down  his  big  Bible  and  seats  himself  in  the  armchair  at  the 
head  of  the  table.  Presently  there  is  a  whispering,  giggling,  and  shuffling  in 
the  passage,  and  in  come  the  loutish  boys  you  have  seen  before.  They  are 
lugging  along  some  wooden  forms,  which  they  place  in  the  room  near  the  door. 
Then  they  retreat  and  return  again,  this  time  bearing  piles  of  Bibles  and  paper- 
covered  hymn-books.  They  are  followed  by  a  small  number  of  lollopy  girls, 
some  clad  in  loose  garments  like  short  nightgowns,  a  few  bearing  still  an 
appearance  of  being  but  half  reclaimed  and  in  their  savage  innocence  scorning 
to  hide  their  virginal  breasts  in  a  frowsy  gown,  while  the  draping  of  the  light 
cottons  round  their  limbs  and  heads  retains  an  element  of  innate  good  taste 
which  the  older,  more  civilised  girls  have  lost.  These  latter,  too,  are  oppressed 
with  a  sense  of  self-consciousness  at  the  sight  of  a  stranger,  and  alternately 
glance  at  you  with  sidelong  languishing  looks,  and  then  make  you  the  subject 
of  sniggering  whispers  among  themselves,  until  they  are  checked  by  a  stern 
look  from  their  mistress,  which  makes  their  eyes  drop  with  one  accord  on  their 
open  Bibles.  After  prayers  are  over  the  youths  drag  out  the  forms  again,  the 
maidens  bob  and  curtsey,  and  each  with  shrill  monotony  yelps  out,  "  Good  night, 
ma'am ;  good  night,  sah,"  to  which  your  host  and  hostess  reply,  with  wearisome 
punctiliousness,  "  Good  night,  Amelia,  go8d  night,  Florence,  good  night, 
Susannah,  good  night,  Rebecca,"  and  so  on  to  the  end  of  the  list.  Then 
you  stand  for  a  few  minutes  purposeless,  gazing  at  the  prints  of  Bible  subjects 
hung  round  the  walls,  staring  vacantly  at  your  hostess's  sewing  machine,  opening 
the  gift  books  on  the  table  or  softly  trying  the  harmonium  with  one  finger  and 
an  intermittent  pressure  on  the  pedals.  The  missionary's  wife,  who  has  just 
been  with  her  servants  to  ascertain  that  all  your  requirements  in  your  bedroom 
have  been  anticipated,  returns  and  bids  you  good  night  with  a  kindly-worded 
wish  that  you  may  benefit  by  your  night's  rest.  You  chat  a  few  minutes  longer 
with  your  host,  and  then  repair  to  your  bedroom,  where  you  will  be  sure  to  find 
a  comfortable  bed  and  a  shelf  of  books,  with  one  of  which  you  beguile  the 
moments  till  sleep  comes  to  close  your  tired  eyelids. 


198  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

Perhaps  in  the  morning  you  awake  ill  with  threatened  fever.  Sick,  dazed, 
and  trembling,  you  attempt  to  dress,  but  your  host,  who  is  learned  in  the 
treatment  of  such  maladies,  insists  on  your  returning  to  bed  where  for  days 
to  come  you  toss  and  rave,  while  the  vulture  Death  approaches  in  ever-narrowing 
circles,  until  by  patient  nursing,  thoughtful  care,  unwearying  attention  the 
missionary  and  his  wife  have  conquered  the  disease  and  restored  you  to  health. 
Or,  more  probably,  the  first  night's  quiet  rest  under  a  rain-tight  roof,  the  good 
food  and  cheering  kindness  of  your  evening's  entertainment  at  the  mission,  have 
successfully  dispelled  the  incipient  malady,  and  at  the  clanging  of  the  school- 
bell  you  awake  from  slumber,  to  find  yourself  light-hearted  and  full  of  energy, 
braced  by  this  little  interlude  of  comfort  to  face  with  stout  determination  the 
solitude  of  the  wilderness. 

Your  host  and  hostess  are  loth  to  part  with  you,  and  before  you  go,  you 
must  in  very  grace  inspect  the  church  or  chapel  and  the  schools ;  listen  while 
the  school  children  sing  a  simple  English  glee,  and  "  God  Save  the  Queen  ";  look 
over  their  specimens  of  hand-writing ;  and  give  them  easy  problems  to  solve 
in  mental  arithmetic.  You  may  find  it  hard  to  take  an  interest  in  or  suppress  a 
repugnance  for  the  hulking  youths  or  plump  girls,  who  instead  of  being — as  they 
ought  to  be — engaged  in  hard  wholesome  manual  labour,  are  dawdling  and 
yawning  over  slate  and  primer,  and  in  whose  faces  sensual  desires  struggle 
for  expression  with  hypocritical  sanctimoniousness ;  but  the  little  children, 
the  little,  naked,  bright-eyed  children  just  captured  from  the  village,  and 
now  demurely  ranged  in  rows,  solemnly  picking  out  and  wrongly  naming 
cardboard  A's  and  B*s  and  C's — you  surely  can  find  no  difficulty  in  loving 
them,  and  saying  something  to  encourage  the  missionary's  wife,  whose  pets 
they  are?  The  school  inspection  over,  you  yield  to  very  pressing  invitations 
and  stay  to  an  early  luncheon,  after  which  your  host  starts  you  on  the  right 
road  to  your  next  destination,  and  your  hostess  slips  some  dainty  package 
of  eatables  into  your  satchel. 

The  foregoing  sketch  illustrates  perhaps  the  commonest  type  of  missionary 
household  in  Central  Africa,  for  the  bulk  of  our  missionaries  are  Protestants  and 
married.  Most  missionary  societies  distinctly  encourage  their  agents  to  marry  and 
take  their  wives  out  to  live  with  them  in  Africa.  I  only  know  of  one  Protestant 
mission  where  celibacy  is  approved.  That  is  the  Universities  Mission  which 
is  mainly  supported  by  the  High  Church  party  in  England,  and  the  way 
in  which  its  work  is  carried  on  is  very  similar  to  that  of  the  Roman  Catholic 
missions.  In  some  respect  the  system  of  the  Anglicans  and  Roman  Catholics 
has  much  to  recommend  it.  In  their  establishments  there  are  separate  com- 
munities of  men  and  women  wife  lead  a  life  which  is  monastic  only  in  its 
best  features,  and  who  not  being  troubled  by  any  family  affairs,  can  devote 
themselves  to  the  work  of  the  mission  as  long  as  health  permits.  But  then 
it  must  be  remembered  that  these  celibate  missions  are  to  some  extent  served 
by  picked  men  and  women,  who  are  mostly  volunteers  and  receive  no  salary 
for  their  services,  and  are  merely  lodged  and  boarded  at  the  expense  of  the 
mission.  This  system  of  celibacy  undoubtedly  does  not  suit  the  British 
missionary  as  a  rule.  Given  an  average  man,  young  and  in  the  prime  of 
manhood,  who  is  sent  to  work  in  Africa  unmarried,  unsolaced  by  the  company 
of  a  wife,  you  will  find  him  prone  to  be  restless  and  discontented,  or  to  find 
a  consolation  which  arouses  scandal.  Married  to  a  wife  of  his  own  nation 
and  rank  his  whole  career  may  be  different.     He  is  happy,  contented,  pure- 


MISSIONARIES 


199 


minded,  and  disposed — from  the  fact  of  his  having  made  his  home  there — to 
devote  himself  to  a  life-long  work  in  Africa :  in  fact,  a  married  missionary 
becomes  more  or  less  a  missionary  colonist,  a  result  which  the  parent  society 
is  desirous  to  attain.  Moreover,  it  is  certain  that  a  married  man  has  far  more 
influence  among  the  natives,  for  to  the  African  mind  celibacy  is  either  an 
unnatural  or  dishonourable  condition  provoking  suspicion  or  contempt.  A 
man-missionary,  moreover,  if  he  is  to  avoid  the  breath  of  scandal  must  have 
as  little  to  do  with  the  native  women-folk  as  possible.  Yet  in  the  interest  of 
his  work  it  is  quite  as -perhaps  more — important  that  the  women  should  be 


CHURCH   OF  THE  CHURCH   OK   SCOTLAND   MISSION,   BI.ANTYRE 


instructed  as  the  men.  As  mothers  and  wives  they  wield  an  influence  for 
good  and  bad  which  it  is  hard  to  overrate.  From  an  evangelistic  point  of 
view  women  are  needed  for  missionaries  as  well  as  men.  This  need  is  met 
in  the  Roman  Catholic  Church  and  in  some  Anglican  missions  by  the  employ- 
ment of  good  women  as  nuns  or  teaching  sisters,  and  many  of  the  Protestant 
missions  often  have  attached  to  them  unmarried  women  whose  usefulness  in 
teaching  is  quite  equal  to  that  of  the  men.  But  somehow  I  have  noticed 
that  few  of  these  unrnarried  women  helpers,  if  they  were  of  British  nationality, 
were  rigid  advocates  of  celibacy.  Sooner  or  later  most  of  them  have  found 
missionary  husbands,  or  have  married  Europeans  outside  the  mission.  It  is 
a  subject  on  which  I  cannot  dogmatise,  having  before  my  mind's  eye  many 
examples  of  beautiful,  pure,  and  most  useful  lives  led  in  Eastern  and  Central 
Africa  by  devoted  women  who  lived  a  nun's  life  and  were  never  married  ; 
and  yet  I  must  own  these  were  the  exceptions  rather  than  the  rule,  and  that 


200  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

personally  I  shrink  from  advocating  the  sending  out  to  Africa  of  young 
unmarried  women.  It  is  far  better  they  should  go  there,  or  live  there,  as 
wives.  Even  in  marriage,  however,  it  is  not  right  to  conceal  the  fact  that 
there  are  drawbacks  to  the  healthy  happy  life  of  the  married  white  woman 
in  a  barbarous  country,  with  a  sickly  and  tropical  climate.  A  blithe  pretty 
girl  from  one  of  the  three  countries  which  form  the  United  Kingdom,  with 
the  wild  rose  bloom  on  her  cheek,  arrives  in  Africa  and  espouses  her  missionary 
husband  ;  or,  it  may  be,  that  they  are  married  in  England,  and  make  the 
voyage  out  their  honeymoon.  Everything  in  her  new  life  is  a  shock  to  her 
mental  and  physical  system.  The  unvarying,  enervating  heat  and  the  enforced 
changes  in  her  mode  of  dress ;  the  strange  tropical  nature,  overpowering  at 
first  sight  with  its  luxuriance  and  its  amazing  growths ;  the  different  kind  of 
food,  and  even  the  altered  manner  of  passing  the  hours  of  daylight ;  sometimes, 
too,  the  total  absence  of  any  kindred  society  of  her  own  sex — all  these  new 
experiences,  united,  form  a  complete  reversal  of  her  previous  life,  and  must  at 
first  react  on  her  physical  organisation.  Then,  too,  think  of  a  modest  girl 
who  has  been  hitherto  shielded  with  such  jealous  care  from  contact  with 
anything  coarse  or  impure,  so  that  she  has.  in  fact,  grown  up  stupidly  innocent: 
think  of  her  suddenly  thrust  into  a  barbarous  country  where  the  natives  are 
naked  and  not  ashamed,  and  where  the  conventions  of  decency  are  often 
unknowingly  transgressed  by  them  in  a  way  which  to  her  English  pruder>^ 
must  appear  very  indecent ;  where,  too,  the  women  among  whom  she  has  come 
to  minister,  will,  when  she  understands  their  language,  talk  glibly  to  her  of 
matters  that  the  most  depraved  of  her  sex  at  home  would  hesitate  to  mention 
to  a  young  and  inexperienced  woman.  The  effect  of  this  ordeal  even  on  a 
young  wife  is  not  without  its  risks  of  moral  deterioration,  and  is  sometimes 
only  acquired  at  the  cost  of  a  certain  loss  of  delicacy.^  This  rude  contact 
with  coarse  animal  natures  and  their  unrestrained  display  of  animal  instincts 
tends  imperceptibly  to  blunt  a  modest  woman's  susceptibilities,  and  even,  in 
time,  to  tinge  her  own  thoughts  and  language  with  an  unintentional  coarseness. 

Every  year,  however,  makes  it  easier  for  married  women  to  share  the  lot  of 
their  husbands  in  countries  like  British  Central  Africa,  where  civilisation  is 
rapidly  increasing  and  numbers  are  multiplying.  The  missionary  societies 
working  here  early  recognised  that  it  was  their  bounden  duty  to  supply  medical 
missionaries  to  attend  to  the  health  of  their  European  agents  as  well  as  to  the 
medical  wants  of  the  natives.  In  consequence  of  this  the  missionaries*  wives 
who  have  children  have  not  suffered  as  has  been  the  case  in  earlier  days  in 
other  parts  of  Africa.  Children  are  frequently  born  to  the  married  missionaries, 
and  are  reared  in  the  African  climate  with  fair  success,  and  eventually  grow  up 
healthy  boys  and  girls  in  England.  Every  year  makes  it  easier  for  the 
missionary  to  support  his  wife  in  Africa  with  reasonable  comfort  and  chance 
of  good  health.  Women,  indeed,  seem  to  stand  the  climate  better  than  men. 
Moreover,  nowadays,  our  ideas  on  the  subject  of  women  are  widening ;  we  are 
coming  to  see  that  many  burdens  hitherto  borne  by  the  male  can  be  equally 
supported  by  the  female.  On  the  whole,  I  think  women, make  better  mission- 
aries than  men,  and  are  always  much  more  lovable  in  that  aspect.  Let  them, 
therefore,  continue  to  go  out  to  Africa  as  celibates  if  they  are  over  thirty-five, 
but  otherwise  as  married  women. 

If  the  supposititious  traveller,  whose  hypothetical  experiences  in  one  type  of 

*  I  am  writing  of  course  of  the  average  woman,  not  of  exceptional  characters  who  can  walk 
through  any  amount  of  mire  and  come  out  unsoiled. 


MISSIONARIES  201 

missionary  household  I  have  already  described,  should  stay  at  a  station  of  the 
Universities  Mission  in  Central  Africa  or  with  any  of  the  Roman  Catholic 
Fathers,  he  will  have  very  pleasant  experiences,  though  they  may  be  of  a 
different  nature.  The  good  Fathers  of  the  Roman  Catholic  Church,  and 
the  Anglican  priests  from  our  two  great  Universities,  will  entertain  him  with  a 
whole-hearted  hospitality,  though  he  will  not  perhaps  enter  so  much  into  their 
private  lives  as  with  the  married  Protestant  missionary.  In  the  case  of  the 
Anglican  missionaries  he  will  derive  more  the  impression  that  he  is  staying  at  a 
college,  a  college  where  there  is  very  plain  living  and  high  thinking.  With  the 
Roman  Catholics  the  food  is  thoroughly  good,  well  cooked  and  appetising,  and 
all  reproach  of  luxury  removed  from  it  when  it  is  understood  that  it  is  almost 
all  of  local  production  and  due  to  the  energy  and  husbandry  of  the  Fathers 
and  their  pupils.  I  repeat,  there  is  something  very  suggestive  of  the  English 
public-school  about  the  Anglican  missionaries.  Athletics  bulk  largely  and 
wholesomely  in  their  curriculum.  Their  boy  pupils  are  soon  taught  to  play 
football  and  cricket,  and  to  use  the  oar  rather  than  the  paddle ;  but  it  cannot 
be  truthfully  said  that  these  missionaries  keep  a  good  table  or  care  sufficiently 
for  their  creature  comforts.  Their  houses  are  often  of  poor  construction,  untidy, 
and  unattractive:  it  is  obvious  that  they  are  under  no  care  of  womankind. 
The  missionary  snatches  his  meals  hastily,  scarcely  tasting  what  goes  down  his 
throat.  On  his  untidy  bureau  there  will  be  at  one  and  the  same  time  the  newest 
philosophical  treatise  from  England  and  an  ugly  tin  teapot  of  over-stewed  tea. 
But  I  shall  not  continue  my  criticisms  in  this  respect,  as  these  missionaries  are 
now  much  of  the  same  opinion  as  ipyself  on  the  subject  of  the  sheer  necessity 
of  comfort,  if  one  intends  to  lead  a  healthy  life  in  Africa,  and  I  believe 
steps  are  now  being  taken  to  supply  each  University  Mission  Station  with  one 
or  more  lay  brothers  who  will  attend  to  household  cares. 

I  have  made  many  allusions  to  missionary  hospitality.  Missionaries  and  the 
Portuguese  are  alike  in  this  respect.  As  a  people  the  Portuguese  are  the  most 
hospitable  I  know  in  any  part  of  the  globe's  surface,  showing  their  hospitality  as 
a  kind  of  instinct  alike  to  friend  and  enemy.  The  missionary,  in  the  same  way, 
regards  hospitality  as  a  sacred  duty.  No  matter  whether  his  guest  is  disposed 
to  cavil  at  his  work  or  to  sympathise  with  it  he  gives  him  the  best  he  has,  and 
often  more  than  he  himself  can  afford ;  and  too  frequently  the  return  both  to 
the  Portuguese  settler  or  official  and  to  the  missionary  is  thankless  abuse,  or 
ridicule,  on  the  part  of  the  passing  traveller.  I  have  known  explorers  who  owed 
their  lives  and  the  success  of  their  journeys  and  the  saving  of  a  vast  amount 
of  expenditure  to  Portuguese  officials,  planters  or  traders,  who  helped  them  by 
the  way.  When  they  returned  to  Europe,  however,  it  was  only  to  dilate  on  all 
that  was  defective  in  the  Portuguese  system  of  government,  or  faulty  in  the 
characteristics  of  the  race.  Likewise  how  many  travellers  and  sportsmen  have 
lived  for  weeks  light-heartedly  at  the  expense  of  a  missionary  or  of  a  series 
of  missionaries,  and  then  have  taken  the  earliest  opportunity  of  sneering  at 
them  and  spreading  calumnious  reports  as  to  their  mode  of  life.  I  remember 
an  instance  of  this  in  one  who  is  now  dead  and  therefore  shall  be  nameless. 
He  had  visited  the  French  priests  at  Bagamoyo,  on  the  East  Coast  of  Africa. 
Wishing  to  do  him  honour  as  an  explorer  and  an  Englishman,  the  good  Fathers 
concerted  together,  and  agreed  te  sacrifice  their  last  bottle  of  champagne  (kept 
as  an  occasional  medicine)  in  his  honour.  What  was  the  result  ?  He  returned 
to  Europe  and  said,  "Those  missionaries  live  like  fighting-cocks,  they  drink 
champagne  every  day." 


202  BRITISH    CENTRAL    AFRICA 

How  few  of  the  many  hundreds  who  have  enjoyed  missionary  hospitality, 
nursing  and  assistance  have  remembered  that  their  entertainers  were  men 
receiving  salaries  from  ;^8o  to  ;f  300  a  year,  often  with  a  wife  and  family  to 
maintain.  How  many  have  attempted  to  make  any  subsequent  return  for  the 
help  afforded,  not  perhaps  in  monetary  or  other  gifts,  but  in  fair  words. 

It  has  been  so  fine  a  thing  at  first  to  encounter  in  the  wilderness  such 
disinterested  goodness,  such  heroic  attempts  in  the  face  of  the  greatest 
difficulties  and  dreariest  discouragements  to  lead  oneself  and  to  teach  others 
to  adopt  the  higher  life,  that  your  first  impressions  are  of  unbounded  admiration 
for  the  missionaries  and  their  work.  If  you  stay  in  the  country,  say  three  years, 
your  final  verdict  is  likely  to  be  that  of  your  first  impression ;  but  if  you 
frequent  the  mission  for  merely  three  weeks  you  will  find  yourself  beginning 
to  criticise ;  the  demeanour  of  the  mission  girls  has  lost  all  shyness  and  may 
even  perhaps  be  lacking  in  modesty,  for  these  young  women  when  they  get 
beyond  childhood  have  lost  all  fear  of  the  white  man  and  have  not  been 
subjected  to  the  excellent  native  discipline  which  enforces  amongst  the  women 
a  modest  bearing  and  a  certain  amount  of  deference  towards  people  of  the 
.opposite  sex.  You  will,  at  first,  be  disagreeably  impressed  with  the  native 
catechists,  or  readers,  or  deacons,  or  whatever  title  the  trained  native  adherents 
of  the  mission  may  bear :  with  their  profuse  display  of  religious  phrases,  their 
clumsily  cut  European  clothes,^  contrasting  with  an  often  sensual  face,  their  off- 
hand manners  and  great  conceit.  But  pause  a  moment  before  you  too  hastily 
condemn  the  results  of  mission  teaching.  These  clothed  negroes,  whose  ver>' 
clothing  is  an  offence  as  it  often  induces  uncleanly  personal  habits,  and  a  con- 
sequent disagreeable  personal  smell,  and  whose  aping  of  European  ways  is  a 
provocation  to  criticism,  are  nevertheless  more  useful  members  of  the  community 
than  an  untutored  savage.  They  may  be  cheeky  if  you  attempt,  as  many  white 
men  do,  a  bullying  manner,  but  they  are  men  of  the  world.  They  will  not  offer 
you  physical  violence  nor  attempt  to  oppose  your  researches  into  their  country  ; 
on  the  contrary  they  will  make  common  cause  with  you,  and  espouse  your 
cause  if  necessary  against  their  wild  brothers.  They  are  now  British  subjects, 
emphatically  as  much  wedded  to  the  British  policy  with  all  its  mistakes  and 
even  with  any  temporary  injustice  it  may  entail,  as  you  are.  Gradually  they 
or  their  descendants  will  find  their  proper  place.  When  by  education  and 
inherited  culture  they  are  on  the  level  of  the  white  man,  then  by  all  means  let 
them  take  their  place  as  his  equal.  The  British  Empire  is,  or  should  be, 
independent  of  considerations  of  race  and  colour,  and  should  take  as  its  sole 
standard  of  citizenship,  mental,  moral  and  physical  qualifications.  Otherwise 
we  have  no  right  to  interfere  with  these  alien  races,  and  teach  them  to  walk  in 
our  ways,  and  submit  to  our  rule. 

The  fact  is  that  it  takes  at  least  three  generations  before  any  clear  apprecia- 
tion of  the  principles  of  morality,  truth,  gratitude  and  honour  can  penetrate  the 
intellect  and  curb  the  instincts  of  the  negro.  Nor  in  this  disadvantage  is  he 
singular  amongst  the  backward  races  of  mankind.  The  same  statement  applies 
equally  to  the  Red  Indian,  the  Polynesian  or  the  Papuan.  You  cannot  in  a  year 
or  two  convert  a  wolf  into  a  sheep  dog,  or  a  skulking  jackal  into  a  black  and 
tan  terrier ;  this  change  cannot  be  effected  in  the  one  individual,  as  a  rule,  no 
matter  how  long  he  may  live ;  the  result  can  only  be  attained  by  generations 
of  transmitted   culture,   induced  by  constant  restraint  and  careful  education. 

^  This  item  of  criticism  cannot  be  made  to  apply  to  the  pupils  of  the  Universities  Mission  who  are  very 
wisely  made  to  dress  in  long  "  kanzus,"  or  garments  of  Arab  style. 


MISSIONARIES  203 

Even  then,  when  the  bulk  of  your  subjects  are  firmly  established  in  their  new 
mode  of  life,  and  breed  true,  there  will  be  occasionally  disappointing  reversions. 
A  young  sheep  dog  will  take  to  worrying  sheep,  or  a  black  and  tan  terrier  be 
detected  killing  fowls.^ 

I  know  several  ordained  missionaries  who  are  pure  negroes,  and  who 
are  most  worthy  men.  Close  your  eyes  and  you  might  be  talking  to  a 
cultivated  Englishman.  But  I  only  recall,  at  most,  three  instances  of  negro 
priests  of  this  excellent  description  who  have  been,  in  the  one  individual, 
-  raised  up  from  a  condition  of  utter  savagery  to  that  of  an  educated  civilised 
man,  and  who  have  maintained  themselves  on  this  high  level ;  almost  all 
others  having  undergone  similar  experiences  relapse  at  one  time  or  another  in 
a  manner  very  similar  to  that  described  in  Grant  Allen's  striking  story,  The 
Reverend  John  Creedy.  But  my  hope  for  the  eventual  results  lies  in  the  know- 
ledge of  what  has  been  done  amongst  the  negroes  of  the  West  Indies.  Some 
of  the  best,  hardest-working  and  most  satisfactory,  sensible  missionaries  I  have 
ever  known  have  been  West  Indians — in  colour  as  dark  as  the  Africans  they 
go  to  teach,  but  in  excellence  of  mind,  heart,  and  brain-capacity,  fully  equal 
to  their  European  colleagues.  But  then  these  men  were  at  least  three  genera- 
tions removed  from  the  uncivilised  negro,  and  were  as  much  strangers  to  Africa 
and  African  habits  as  the  average  European.  Per  contra,  what  disappointing 
results  on  a  surface  examination  would  appear  to  him  who  first  commenced 
studying  the  effects  of  mission  work  in  Central  Africa.  If  he  has  really  been 
a  student  of  African  History,  if  he  has  read  old  Blue-books,  old  descriptions  of 
travel,  old  missionary  records,  he  will  have  noted  that  at  the  end  of  the 
"seventies"  or  the  beginning  of  the  "eighties,"  the  missionaries  of  the  day  wrote 
with  rapture  of  the  remarkable  progress  in  learning  and  in  religion  which  had 
been  made  by  John  Makwira,  Joseph  Evangel,  Robert  Ntundulima,  Simpson 
Chokabwino:^    of  how  John   Makwira  and   Simpson    Chokabwino   had  been 

^  As  an  instance  of  the  disappointing  naughtiness  which  may  occur  even  amongst  people  who  have 
lived  round  the  mission  station  for  years,  I  would  tell  the  following  story.     While  cruising  on  I^ake 

N)rasa  in  1895  on  one  of  our  gunboats  I  visited  the  Island  of an  important  station  of  the 

Mission.  We  arrived  on  the  Saturday  evening,  dined  with  the  missionaries  and  were  invited  to 
hmch  with  them  the  next  day.  Early  on  Sunday  morning  a  number  of  youths  came  off  from  the  shore 
in  canoes  bringing  small  tins  and  bottles  of  milk.     I  am  exceedingly  fond  of  milk  and  it  is  not  an  easy 

thing  to  get  in  Africa  as  a  rule,  I  was  therefore  delighted  at  the  enterprise  shown  by  the  natives  of . 

The  Commander  of  the  gunboat  accordingly  bought  up  all  the  milk  that  was  offered  for  sale  and 
that  morning  we  feasted  on  porridge  and  milk  and  cafi-au-lait^  and  put  aside  plenty  of  milk  for  tea  in 
the  afternoon  and  puddings  in  the  evening.  As  it  is  very  difficult  ordinarily  to  obtain  milk  at  all  from  the 
natives  in  this  part  of  Africa,  as  the  cows  and  goats  are  often  allowed  to  run  about  unmilked,  (the 
natives  not  caring  for  milk  themselves)  we  were  full  of  praise  regarding  the  enterprise  of  these  mission 
boys.  Later  on  we  appeared  at  lunch,  and  the  ladies  and  gentlemen  of  the  mission  apologised  to  us  for 
handing  round  tinnea  milk,  than  which  nothing  becomes  more  hateful  to  the  resident  in  Africa,  "but,** 
said  the  missionaries  **our  l)oys  you  know  are  very  strict  Sabbatarians.  On  Sundays  they  absolutely 
refuse  to  milk  the  goats,  so  we  have  to  go  without,  though  we  get  plenty  of  milk  on  the  other  days  of  the 
week."  I  was  just  going  to  exclaim  **  How  extraordinary  !  why  lots  of  your  boys  came  off  this  morning 
with  Quite  a  large  quantity  of  milk  for  sale"  when  an  idea  struck  the  Commander  of  the  vessel  and 
myself  simultaneously  and  we  held  our  peace.  On  enquiry  we  found  these  youths  of  Sabbatarian  instincts 
reserved  the  Sunday's  milk  for  themselves,  and  on  occasions  were  very  willing  to  sell  it  to  strangers. 

^  The  names  of  course  are  fictitious  but  they  give  some  idea  of  the  want  of  taste  too  often  shown 
by  the  missionaries  in  naming  their  converts.  This  would  be  very  apparent  to  anybody  who  takes  up  one 
or  other  of  the  missionary  journals  published  in  Centra!  Africa  and  reads  the  list  of  liaptisms.  I  quote 
haphazard  from  Life  and  Work  in  British  Central  Africa^  the  organ  of  the  Blantyfe  Mission  for  September. 
1896,  and  on  the  first  page  amongst  the  baptisms  I  find  the  names  of  *'  Mungo  Park  Kalima  and  Tabitha 
his  wife  who  have  just  had  a  little  daughter  christened  '  Bonnie'  ;"  and  of  **  Marcus  Aurelius  Mbumju." 
tither  let  a  European  Christian  name  and  surname  be  given  straight  away,  or  keep  to  the  child's  existing 
name  or  to  any  other  native  appellation  and  there  is  nothing  to  grate  on  the  ear  ;  but  Agnes  Tanga- 
langa  and  Dora  Chokabwino,  Athanasius  Ndodo  and  Wilfred  Pujapuja  are  incongruous,  absurd  and 
distasteful. 


204  BRITISH    CENTRAL    AFRICA 

sent  to  the  Lovedale  Institute  in  South  Africa,  and  Robert  Ntundulima  and 
Joseph  Evangel  to  Scotland  ;  and  of  the  great  things  which  were  to  be  expected 
from  the  raising  up  of  a  native  Pastorate.  Then  this  student  will  in  the  later 
"  nineties  "  visit  British  Central  Africa  and  it  will  gradually  dawn  on  him  that 
this  disreputable  scoundrel,  living  with  and  constantly  beating  four  wives,  and 
so  often  inebriated  with  native  forms  of  alcohol  that  he  is  continually  in  the 
police  courts,  is  Simpson  Chokabwino;  or  that  this  lying  "capitao"  who  is 
brought  before  a  magistrate  charged  with  defrauding  his  employer  (a  coffee 
planter)  by  a  forged  bill  is  Joseph  Evangel.  Perhaps  Robert  Ntundulima  may  . 
be  found  to  have  settled  in  douce  sloth,  though  still  a  church  goer  with  one 
wife,  but  with  all  religious  enthusiasm  dead  and  an  expensive  education  wasted 
on  market  gardening. 

At  the  present  moment  although  missionaries  have  been  at  work  in  British 
Central  Africa  since  1875,  the  numbers  of  real,  sincere,  heVievingy  professing 
Christians  amongst  their  native  adherents  are  relatively  small.  The  Universities 
Mission  may  count  300,  the  Church  of  Scotland  400,  and  the  Free  Church 
Mission  500,  because  the  missionaries  themselves  are  grown  far  honester  than 
their  predecessors  of  the  **  forties "  and  "  fifties "  and  are  very  careful  not  to 
confuse  converts  with  adherents  and  scholars,  therefore  in  their  returns  they 
only  give  the  actual  number  of  baptised  and  confirmed  Christians,  but  this 
in  no  way  gauges  the  real  results  of  their  work.*  Their  scholars  may  be 
numbered  by  the  thousand  though  those  scholars,  may  not  be  sufficiently 
advanced  in  their  religious  belief  to  be  baptised  ;  and  their  adherents — that 
is  to  say,  all  the  surrounding  natives  who  more  or  less  follow  their  advice  and 
are  benefited  by  the  example  of  the  mission  in  striving  to  live  peacefully  and 
decently — number  thousands  more.  Even  if  the  actual  religious  results  of  so 
much  labour  and  expenditure  of  lives  and  wealth  seem  inadequate  it  is 
consoling  to  reflect  on  the  immense  service  which  missionary  enterprise  has 
rendered  to  Africa  and  to  the  world  at  large.  When  the  history  of  the  great 
African  states  of  the  future  comes  to  be  written,  the  arrival  of  the  first 
missionary  will  with  many  of  these  new  nations  be  the  first  historical  event 
in  their  annals,  allowing  for  the  matter  of  fact  and  realistic  character  of 
historical  analysis  in  the  21st  century.  This  pioneering  propagandist  will 
nevertheless  assume  somewhat  of  the  character  of  a  Quetzalcoatl — one  of  those 
strange  half-mythical  personalities  which  figure  in  the  legends  of  old  American 
empires ;  the  beneficent  being  who  introduced  arts  and  manufactures,  imple- 
ments of  husbandry,  edible  fruits,  medical  drugs,  cereals,  domestic  animals. 
To  missionaries  rather  than  to  traders  or  government  officials  many  districts 
of  tropical  Africa  owe  the  introduction  of  the  orange,  lime,  and  mango,  of 
the  cocoanut-palm,  the  cacao-bean  and  the  pine  apple.  Improved  breeds  of 
poultry  and  pigeons,  many  useful  vegetables,  and  beautiful  garden  flowers  have 
been  and  are  being  taken  further  and  further  into  the  poorly-endowed  regions 
of  barbarous  Africa  by  these  emissaries  of  Christianity.  It  is  they  too  who 
in  many  cases  have  first  taught  the  natives  carpentry,  joinery,  masonry, 
tailoring,  cobbling,  engineering,  book-keeping,  printing,  and  European  cookery ; 
to  say  nothing  of   reading,  writing,  arithmetic  and  a  smattering  of  general 

^  In  other  parts  of  Africa,  principally  British  possessions,  large  numbers  of  nominal  Christians  exist, 
but  their  religion  is  discredited  by  numbering  amongst  its  adherents  all  the  drunkards,  liars,  rogues,  and 
unclean  livers.  Among  the  natives  in  or  near  European  settlements  in  one  of  the  oldest  of  our  West 
Afridkn  possessions  all  the  unrepentant  Magdalenes  of  the  chief  city  are  professing  Christians,  and  I 
remember  when  visiting  the  place  referred  to  in  1888  seeing  a  black  Messalina  going  to  church  in  pomp, 
clad  in  a  white  silk  dress  and  followed  by  a  train  of  negro  admirers. 


MISSIONARIES  205 

knowledge.  Almost  invariably  it  has  been  to  missionaries  that  the  natives 
of  Interior  Africa  have  owed  their  first  acquaintance  with  the  printing  press, 
the  turning  lathe,  the  mangle,  the  flat  iron,  the  saw  mill,  and  the  brick  mould. 
Industrial  teaching  is  coming  more  and  more  into  favour,  and  its  immediate 
results  in  British  Central  Africa  have  been  most  encouraging.  Instead  of 
importing  printers,  carpenters,  store  clerks,  cooks,  telegraphists,  gardeners, 
natural  history  collectors  from  England  or  India,  we  are  gradually  becoming 
able  to  obtain  them  amongst  the  natives  of  the  country,  who  are  trained  in 
the  missionaries'  schools,  and  who  having  been  given  simple  wholesome  local 
education  have  not  had  their  heads  turned,  are  not  above  their  station  in  life, 
and  consequently  do  not  prove  the  disastrous  failures  I  have  introduced  in 
my  foregoing  references  to  typical  individuals  sent  for  their  education  to  South 
Africa  or  the  United  Kingdom.  At  the  Government  press  at  Zomba  there  is 
but  one  European  superintendent — all  the  other  printers  being  mission-trained 
natives.  Most  of  the  telegraph  stations  are  entirely  worked  by  negro  telegraph 
clerks  also  derived  from  the  missions.  As  an  instance  of  the  intelligence  of 
some  of  these  missionary  scholars,  I  have  given  at  the  end  of  the  chapter  dealing 
with  the  flora  of  British  Central  Africa  a  list  and  description  of  the  native  trees 
which  is  a  really  remarkable  essay  sent  to  me  in  the  native  tongue  by  a 
Blantyre  scholar.^ 

Who  can  say  with  these  facts  before  them,  with  the  present  condition  of  the 
natives  in  South  Africa  to  consider,  with  the  gradual  civilisation  of  Western 
Africa,^  that  missionary  work  has  been  a  failure  or  anything  but  a  success  in  the 
Dark  Continent  ? 

Is  it  of  no  account,  do  you  think,  is  it  productive  of  no  good  effect  in  the 
present  state  of  Africa,  that  certain  of  our  fellow-countrymen — or  women — 
fX)ssessed  of  at  least  an  elementary  education,  and  impelled  by  no  greed  of  gain 
or  unworthy  motive — should  voluntarily  locate  themselves  in  the  wild  parts  of 
this  undeveloped  quarter  of  the  globe,  and,  by  the  very  fact  that  they  live  in  a 
European  manner,  in  a  house  of  European  style,  surrounded  by  European 
implements,  products,  and  adornments,  should  open  the  eyes  of  the  brutish 
savages  to  the  existence  of  a  higher  state  of  culture,  and  prepare  them  for  the 
approach  of  civilisation  ?  I  am  sure  my  readers  will  agree  with  me  that  it  is  as 
the  preparer  of  the  white  man's  advent,  as  the  mediator  between  the  barbarian 
native  and  the  invading  race  of  rulers,  colonists,  or  traders,  that  the  missionary 
earns  his  chief  right  to  our  consideration  and  support.  He  constitutes  himself 
informally  the  tribune  of  the  weaker  race,  and  though  he  may  sometimes  be 
open  to  the  charges  of  indiscretion,  exaggeration,  and  partiality  in  his  support 
of  his  dusky-skinned  clients'  claims,  yet  without  doubt  he  has  rendered  real 
services  to  humanity  in  drawing  extra-colpnial  attention  to  many  a  cruel  abuse 
of  power,  and  by  checking  the  ruthless  proceedings  of  the  unscrupulous  pioneers 
of  the  white  invasion. 

Indirectly,  and  almost  unintentionally,  missionary  enterprise  has  widely 
increased  the  bounds  of  our  knowledge,  and  has  sometimes  been  the  means 

1  This  essay  has  been  kindly  translated  for  me  into  English  by  the  Rev.  Alexander  Hetherwick  of  the 
Church  of  Scotland  Mission,  but  I  understand  sufficient  of  Chinyanja,  having  the  original  with  me,  to 
know  that  the  translation  though  a  smooth  one  imparts  no  sense  into  the  text  which  is  not  to  be  found  in 
the  original  document.  To  test  the  intelligence  of  these  scholars  of  the  Blantyre  Mission  Schools  I  had 
offered  a  small  prize  for  the  best  essay  on  this  subject.  There  were  many  competitors  and  some  of  the 
essays  were  very  good  besides  that  one  whicli  I  now  publish,  and  which  was  adjudged  to  be  the  best. 

*  Where  the  Basel  missionaries  have  played  much  the  same  part  as  the  British  missionaries  in  Nyasa- 
land  in  introducing  industrial  teaching. 


2o6  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

of  conferring  benefits  on  science,  the  value  and  extent  of  which  itself  was 
careless  to  appreciate  and  compute.  Huge  is  the  debt  which  philologists  owe 
to  the  labours  of  British  Missionaries  in  Africa !  By  evangelists  of  our  own 
nationality  nearly  two  hundred  African  languages  and  dialects  have  been 
illustrated  by  grammars,  dictionaries,  vocabularies,  and  translations  of  the  Bible. 
Many  of  these  tongues  were  on  the  point  of  extinction,  and  have  since  become 
extinct,  and  we  owe  our  knowledge  of  them  solely  to  the  missionaries*  inter- 
vention. Zoology,  botany,  and  anthropology,  and  most  of  the  other  branches 
of  scientific  investigation  have  been  enriched  by  the  researches  of  missionaries, 
who  have  enjoyed  unequalled  opportunites  of  collecting  in  new  districts  ;  while 
commerce  and  colonisation  have  been  so  notoriously  guided  in  their  extension 
by  the  information  derived  from  patriotic  emissaries  of  Christianity  that  the 
negro  potentate  was  scarcely  unjust  when  he  complained  that  "  first  came  the 
missionary,  then  the  merchant,  then  the  Consul,  and  then  the  man-of-war." 
For  missionary  enterprise  in  the  future  I  see  a  great  sphere  of  usefulness — work 
to  be  done  in  the  service  of  civilisation  which  shall  rise  superior  to  the  mere 
inculcation  of  dogma ;  work  which  shall  have  for  its  object  the  careful  educa- 
tion and  kindly  guardianship  of  struggling,  backward  peoples ;  work  which, 
in  its  lasting  effects  on  men's  minds,  shall  be  gratefully  remembered  by  the  new 
races  of  Africa  when  the  sectarian  fervour  which  prompted  it  shall  long  have 
been  forgotten. 


CHAPTER    VIII. 


BOTANY 


THAT  botany  plays  a  very  important  part  in  British  Central  Africa  north 
of  the  Zambezi  will  be  plain  to  the  most  unobservant  traveller.  It  does 
not  take  the  first  rank  in  popular  interest,  as  in  West  Africa,  for  vegetable 
growth  is  less  marvellous  and  fantastic  than  in  the  hot  rainy  countries  along  the 
West  Coast  belt  and  in  the  Congo  Basin.  Zoology,  perhaps,  has  the  first  claim 
on  the  attention  of  the  naturalist  in  South  Central  Africa ;  still  botany  comes 
in  as  a  good  second  ;  for  all  this  district  (as  I  have  incidentally  pointed  out  in  a 
previous  chapter)  is  a  kind  of  secondary  development  of  the  forest  region  ;  it  is 


207 


FLOWERS   OF  THE   CARDENIA   TREE 


2o8 


BRITISH    CENTRAL    AFRICA 


on  the  whole  much  more  clothed  with  v^etation  than  is  East  Africa,  North- 
Central  or  South  Africa. 

Flowering  plants  and  trees  are  either  much  more  abundant  or,  owing  to  the 
less  dense  vegetation,  much  more  apparent  than  in  West  Africa.  Perhaps  there 
are  not  colour  displays  quite  as  gorgeous  as  the  evanescent  sheets  of  bloom  to 
be  met  with  in  Temperate  North  or  South  Africa,  but  then  the  show  of  flowers 
is  not  confined  to  a  few  weeks  in  the  year,  but  is  pretty  constant  throughout  all 
the  twelve  months.  Of  course  there  is  a  marked  bursting  into  bloom  at  the 
beginning  of  yearly  rains  and  again  in  the  benign 

autumn  when  the  violence  of  the  rainy  season  . _ 

is  over  and  yet  ihe  soil  h  still  moist. 


i  have  not  been  able 
to  liiidei^tand  (as  I  have 
mentioned  in  a  preced- 
ing chapter)  wh}-  certain 
naturalists  have  spread 
abroad  the  impression 
that  sinking  birds,  sweet 
smelling  flowers  and  gor- 
geous displays  of  bloom 
are  practically  confined 
tc*  the  temperate  regions 
and  arc  not  characteristic 
♦  4  the  Tropics.  No  doubt 
these  impressions  were 
for  Uicu  fioiii  an  exclusive 
acquaintance  with  the 
dense  forests  of  Tropical 
America  and  Malaya,  where,  just  as  in  West  Africa,  (owing  to  the  pre- 
ponderating gloomy  forest)  there  is  an  immense  display  of  foliage  varied 
by  no  more  than  an  occasional  flower  or  spray  of  blossoms.  And  however 
wonderful  the  orchids  of  these  regions  may  be,  they  rarely  grow  in  suflficient 
numbers  or  near  enough  to  the  pur\-iew  of  the  human  eye  to  constitute  a 
blaze  of  colour.  But  no  one  who  has  kept  his  eyes  open  in  the  drier  regions 
of  Central  Africa  can  refuse  to  acknowledge  that  the  flower  displap  are  marked 
and  ver>'  gorgeous,  especially  in  that  part  of  the  countr\-  which  li^  a  thousand 
feet  and  more  above  sea  level.  In  the  swamps  and  on  the  low-lWng  land  it  is 
possible  to  pass  through  the  country-  seeing  little  sign  of  any  flowers  during 
certain  months  of  the  year  ;  though  here,  again,  the  traveller,  to  be  consistent 


LlNSOCHIirs   ORCHIDS 


BOTANY 


209 


^  in  his  declaration  that  he  has  seen  no  flowers,  must  be  very  careful  not  to  look 
too  closely  into  the  details  of  the  landscape  or  he  will  falsify  his  own  statement ; 
for  in  the  marshes  there  are  blue  or  white  water-lilies ;  amongst  the  high  reeds 
on  the  forested  banks  of  the  rivers  trailing  convolvuluses  seem  to  be  always  in 
bloom.  The  white  plumes  of  the  reeds  and  the  efflorescence  of  many  rushes 
are  often  beautiful  and  form  a  pleasant  feature  of  the  landscape. 

But  if  these  low- lying  lands  are  visited  in  the  spring-time  the  display  of 
flowers  is  qu  ite  as  gorgeous 
as  elsewhere.  The  acacia 
trees  are  loaded  with  small 
orange-coloured  blossoms ; 
a  creeper  (which  some- 
times grows  indepen- 
dently as  a  bush)  has  all 
along  the  under  part  of 
the  stalk  a  continuous 
mass  of  small  crimson 
petalless  flowers.  When 
these  are  fully  out  and 
the  branches  are  twined 
round  some  smaller  tree 
or  trailing  on  the  ground 
they  are  like  great  wreaths 
of  crimson.  A  strange  leaf- 
less shrub  which  resem- 
bles a  miniature  baobab 
tree,  has  large  blossoms 
that  are  rose-coloured  and 
white  ;  every  moist  glade 
teems  with  Crinum  lilies 
of  the  purest  white,  or 
else  white  with  a  line  of 
pink  (the  scent  of  their 
flowers  being  almost  in- 
toxicating when  in  close 
proximity)  ;  the  india- 
rubber  vines  have  sweet- 
scented,  chaste  white 
blossoms;  there  are  shrubs 

allied  to  the  jasmine  with  flowers  like  those  of  that  plant ;  the  Pterocarpus 
trees  for  one  fortnight  in  the  spring  are  loaded  with  immense  masses  of  yellow 
laburnum-like  blossom.  Other  papilionaceous  trees  of  the  genus  Lonchocarpus 
flower  profusely  and  resemble  the  Wistaria  in  colour  and  appearance ;  the 
Gardenia  tree  has,  as  the  reader  will  see  by  the  illustration,  large  handsome 
white  flowers  which  in  the  centre  are  touched  with  pink  and  orange ;  then 
there  are  the  various  species  of  Erythrina.  One  of  these,  at  least,  has  blossoms 
so  gorgeous  that  I  should  like  to  get  it  introduced  into  cultivation.  The 
tree  belongs  to  the  bean  family ;  the  flowers  which  grow  in  large  clusters 
are  vivid  crimson-scarlet.  It  usually  has  but  few  leaves  on  it  when  it  bursts 
into  bloom.  Suddenly  meeting  with  it  in  the  jungle — great  crimson  splodges 
radiating  from  the  gnarled  grey  trunk — you  rub  your  eyes  thinking  that  it  must 

14 


AN    ANGR>ECUM   ORCHIS 


2IO 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


be  some  optical  delusion.  Then  there  is  a  mighty  tree  of  the  genus  Spathodea 
(probably  S,  campanulata).  Its  flowers  again  are  crimson-scarlet  with  a  curious 
velvet  hood  of  even  deeper  and  richer  crimson  ;  and  there  is  the  Bombax,  whose 
flowers  also  are  vivid  scarlet-crimson  with  a  mass  of  dull-black  anthers  and  a 
calyx  of  yellow-green.  Both  Spathodea  and  Bonibax  are  trees  of  great  height 
and  stateliness.  The  Bombax  is  the  more  effective  object  because  the  leaves 
are  not  much  out  when  the  flowers  burst  forth ;  and  the  spectacle  is  such  that 
if  Linnaeus  gave  way  to  tears  before  a  field  of  gorse,  one  wonders  what  he 
would  have  done  in  full  view  of  a  mighty  Bombax  with  its  branches  hung  with 
pendant  crimson  flowers,  like  innumerable  red  lamps.  Even  the  baobabs 
flowers,  though  they  tarnish  quickly,  are  beautiful  for  a  brief  space,  while  they 
retain  the  creamy  white  of  their  petals  and  the  pale  gold  dazzle  of  theiV 
multitufdinous  stamens. 

There  are  many  beans  of  the  genus  Tephrosia^  growing  as  creepers  or  erect 
shrubs  with  flowers  usually 

a  rich  purple,  but  in  one  ^gPL^^SSS 

species  ( Tephrosia  Vogelii) 
with  the  corolla  snow- 
white  and  the  calyx,  stalks, 
and  ovaries  the  deepest 
purple.  Other  bean  flowers 
{Crotalaria  and  Eriosema) 
are  yellow.  There  are 
Hibiscuses,  with  huge 
flowers  of  lemon -yellow 
crimson-centred ;  others  of 
pure  white,  others  of  pale 
pink. 

There    are    shrubs    of 
the  genus  Copaifera  whose 
flowers  have  large,  crinkly 
petals     of     pure      white 
^streaked  with  rose,  and  a 
powerful    aromatic    scent ;     and    stragL;linf^ 
cucurbits    with    cold -white     blossoms     and 
gaudy -coloured  gourds.     The  Cntstis  shrub 
exhibits  big  seed-vessels,  several  in  a  clump, 
covered  with  orange  or  scarlet  velvet,  through 
the  valves  of  which  the  black -headed  beans 
protrude.      Ground    orchids,    chiefly    of   the 
genus  Lissockilus,  grow  amicl  the  grass  with 
columns   of  red,    mauve,   or   hulphur-yellnw 
flowers.      Epiphytic     orchids     are     nut     so 
common,  and  are  only  found  in  chimps  uf 
dense  forest,  where  they  are  chiefly  represented  by  the  genera 
Ansellia  and  Angrcecum, 

Everywhere  in  moist  places  straggles  the  Camimlina  with 
its  blooms  of  cobalt -blue,  \'eUo\v,  or  white — flovvers  that 
wither  before  the  noonday  sun,  but  are  lovely  in  the  morning 
hours. 

This  enumeration  is  wearisome  to  the  eye  from  the  constant 


THE  ANSELLIA 

OR  **  tiger"  orchis 


BOTANY 


21  I 


citing  of  Latin  names ;  but  I  wish  to  substantiate  my  statements  regarding 
the  beauty  of  the  flora  by  enabling  the  reader  to  identify  the  objects  of  my 
admiration.  He  should  derive  from  this  list  the  just  impression  that  throughout 
at  least  six  months  in  the  year  even  the  low-lying  plains  of  Central  Africa  are 

bright  in  colour  with  flowers  and  fruits ;  but 
if  this  is  the  case  with  the  lowlands  what 
adjectives  can  be  employed  to  adequately 
picture  the  flora  of  the  highlands  ?  One 
sw  tfeping  statement  must  be  made  that  during 
spring-time  they  are  gorgeous  with  their 
flrnrer  displays — gorgeous  with  lakes  of  azure- 
blue  and  mauve,  stretches  of  pinkish-white, 
mounds  of  rose-tint,  columns  of  purple,  sheets 
of  ultramarine,  circles  of  orange,  constellations 
f  jf  jiure  white,  stains  of  blood-red,  billows  of 
yellow.  Anything  more  beautiful 
than  these  wild  flower  gardens  in 
the  country  which  lies  between  looo 
and  4000  feet  in  altitude  I  have 
_  never  seen.     And  as  I  have  already 

remarked,  although  in  its  full  efful- 
gence during  the  spring  months 
(October,  November,  December)  and 
in  the  autumn  revival  (April,  May, 
June),  yet  the  flower  display  in  the 
uplands  maintains  itself  throughout 
the  whole  year.  Why  should  I 
weary  the  reader  further  by  Homeric 
lists  of  scientific  names  ?  All  these 
can  be  found  in  the  Appendix  ;  and 
those  inclined  to  doubt  or  minimise 
my  statements  may  look  up  the 
various  genera  and  species  in  the 
Gardens  and  at  the  Herbarium  at  Kew,  and  (taking  for  granted  the  truth 
of  my  statements  that  the  flowering  plants  frequently  grow  in  masses  which 
contribute  great  effects  of  unbroken  colour)  may  even  without  a  visit  to  British 
Central  Africa  become  once  for  all  convinced  that  whatever  may  be  the  case 
with  the  gloomy  forests  of  the  Amazon  or  Malay  Archipelago,  the  open, 
reasonably-rained-on  parts  of  Tropical  Africa  are  as  splendidly  endowed  with 
flower  shows  as  with  singing  birds.  Up  in  the  high  mountains  this  is  still  more 
marked.  Here  an  emotional  person  would  faint  away  before  the  rocks  hung 
with  blue  lobelias,  and  the  clumps  of  smalt  and  cobalt  Disa  Orchids.^ 

There  is  a  tree  lily  ( Vellozia  splendens)  which  in  the  spring-time  bears  from 
its  gouty  stems  (ordinarily  finished  by  a  tuft  of  grass-like  leaves)  sprays  of 
creamy-white  blooms,  so  beautiful  that  even  the  botanists  of  Kew  were  touched, 
and  called  it  "  splendens."  ^ 

'  Perhaps  the  loveliest  ground  orchid  in  the  world — Disa  hamatopetala.  This  is  well  figured  from 
our  specimens  in  the  Transactions  of  the  Linnaan  Society  for  May,  1894. 

'^  Botany  should  be  dealt  with  by  a  class  of  sylphs ;  instead  of  which  its  priests  are  often  old  and 
unenthusiastic  men.  Plod  through  page  after  page  of  botanical  description,  and  where  du  you  find  any 
hint  as  a  rule  of  the  matchless  beauty  they  should  be  describing?  Little  if  any  mention  is  made  of  the 
colour  of  the  *' corolla"  (as  it  is  correct  to  call  the  showy  part  of  the  flower),  but  what  the  botanist  likes  to 
note  with  so  much  satisfaction  is  that  the  plant  is  either  glabrous  or  scabrous,  that  it  is  possibly  caulescent 


A   RED   LILY 
OKOWING   IN   ALL  THE  STREAM   VALLEYS   IN   THE  SHIRK   HIGHLANDS 


I 


212 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


OIL   PALMS,    NEAR  THE  SONGWE   RIVER,   NORTH   NYASA 

Then  there  are  the  numerous  Coreopses  (relations  of  the  Sunflower) — golden- 


yellow,   creamy -white,  and  blood -red 


pinkish -white  anemones;  purple  iris 
{An'stea)]  rosy-tinted,  salmon -tinted, 
apricot  -  tinted  gladioli,  or  even  a 
gladiolus  with  huge  blossoms  of  a  pale 
buff  colour  like  caf^-au-lait.  There  is 
a  great  range  in  the  colour  of  these 
gladioli.  One  has  a  flower  of  purplish- 
green.  The  Hypericum  shrub,  like  the 
St.  John's  wort  in  England,  has  large 
pale  yellow  blossoms.  In  the  stream 
valleys  there  are  balsams  of  pink- 
mauve  ;  by  the  water  side  at  the 
greatest  altitudes  is  the  blue  Cyno- 
glossuniy  and  there  are  silver  and  gold 
Helichrysums.  And  yet  I  have  only 
signalised  by  name  a  twentieth  part  of 
the  flowering  plants  of  these  high 
mountains  in  Central  Africa. 

and  that  the  outer  whorl  is  covered  with  black  emergences.  He  likes  the  perianth  cup  to  be  short  and 
fleshy  and  prefers  the  anthers  to  be  sessile.  Not  a  single  exclamation  of  praise  or  prayer  at  the  flower 
displayed.  Of  course  he  is  right :  science  must  be  unemotional.  A  good  diawing  of  this  Veiiozia  is 
given  in  the  Transactions  of  the  Linmcan  Society  for  May,  1894. 


A    RAPHIA   PALM 


BOTANY 


213 


So  much  for  beauty  of  colour ;  now  for  the  beauty  of  outline.  There  are 
five  species  of  palm  abundantly  represented  in  British  Central  Africa:  the 
Borassus,  the  Hyphaene,  the  Wild  date,  the  Raphia,  and  the  Oil  palm.^  The 
cocoanut  palm  grows  at  one  or  two  places  on  the  Shire  River  and  on  Lake 
Nyasa,  but  it  is  an  introduction  from  the  East  Coast.     The  most  graceful  of 


RAPHIA   PALM    FRUITING 


'  The  oil  palm,  either  the  Eiais  giiineinsis  of  West  Africa  or  a  nearly-allied  species  grows  in  North- 
west Nyasaland.  It  is  found  chiefly  in  the  very  fertile  plain  lying  between  the  Nkonde  mountains  and  the 
Lake  shore ;  also  in  the  well-watered  hill  country  of  the  Atonga.  So  far  as  I  am  aware  it  is  not  found 
further  south  than  the  latitude  of  Bandawe — about  the  middle  of  Lake  Nyasa— nor  does  it  seem  to  reach 
any  part  of  the  east  coast  of  that  lake.  It  may  be  reported 'eveotually  from  the  Chambezi  River  which 
flows  down  the  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau  and  becomes  the  Upper  Congo,  but  it  has  not  been  recorded  up 
to  the  present.  Therefore,  after  quitting  Lake  Nyasa  and  ascending  to  the  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau  one 
does  not  encounter  the  oil  palm  again  until  the  south  shore  of  Tanganyika  is  reached.  Here  there  are  a 
few  examples  but  it  is  not  abundant.  On  the  Upper  Luapula,  however,  Mr.  Sharpe  found  it  growing  in 
ct>n5iderable  numbers  and  apparently  identical  with  the  West  Coast  species ;  but  this  may  be  the  result  of 
direct  introduction  by  the  Alunda — a  West  African  people  who  make  considerable  use  of  its  oil  for  food. 
Mr.  Whyte  and  myself  have  done  our  be'st  to  introduce  the  oil  palm  into  South  Nyasaland  and  the  nuts 
planted  in  the  Zomba  Botanical  Gardens  have  already  grown  to  the  height  of  a  couple  of  feet.  Even  if 
there  was  no  idea  of  exporting  the  palm  oil  and  thus  competing  with  West  Africa  it  would  be  extremely 
useful  locally  for  cooking  purposes.  The  illustration  I  give  here  is  done  from  a  photograph  taken  of  a 
clump  of  oil  palms  at  the  north  end  of  Lake  Nyasa. 


214 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


BORASSUS   PALMS 


these  palms  is  the  Raphia,  a  species  as  yet  unnamed.  The  trunk  or  stem 
seldom  reaches  to  any  great  height  above  the  ground  ;  it  has  enormously  long 
fronds  which  rise  into  the  air  and  give  the  idea  of  height.  The  foliage  of  these 
fronds  is  a  glaucous  green,  but  the  midrib  in  the  living  frond  is  bright  orange. 

The  seeds  are  much  like  the  cones  of  certain 
conifers.  They  are  covered  with  glossy  brown 
scales  and  are  extremely  hard,  taking  a  whole 
year  to  germinate  in  the  ground.  This  palm 
would  no  doubt  produce  a  wine-like  sap,  as 
is  the  case  with  its  near  congener  the  Raphia 
viyiifera  ;  but  I  have  not  heard  of  the  natives 
using  it  for  this  purpose  in  Central  Africa. 
The  midribs  of  its  enormous  fronds  are  of 
greatest  service  to  man,  being  very  light, 
easily  straightened,  somewhat  uniform  in 
girth  and  very  strong.  The  Raphia  midribs 
at  once  constitute  a  light  and  effective  ladder 
20  feet  long  by  small  rungs  being  inserted 
in  the  holes  made  on  the  leaf-bearing  surface  of  the  midrib.  This  palm  also 
in  the  .same  manner  furnishes  rafters  for  houses.  The  destruction  of  it  at  the 
hands  of  the  natives  has  been  somewhat  wanton,  and  we  have  taken  measures 
in  the  more  settled  districts  to  protect  the  Raphia,  besides  gathering  the  seeds 
and  replanting  them  extensively. 

The  Borassus  flabellifer  grows  to  a  great  height.  Its  fronds  curl  into 
a  semicircle  and  make  the 
familiar  palm  fan  of  the  East. 
The  fruit  is  large — as  big  as 
a  child's  head — and  the  husk 
is  a  pale  yellowish-green  when 
ripe.  I  believe  the  kernel  to 
be  of  little  u.se  The  trunk  of 
the  palm  is  very  good  for 
certain  purpo.ses  in  building. 

The  Central  African  Hy- 
phaene  is  .so  similar  in  appear- 
ance to  the  Bora.ssus  that  the 
one  is  often  mistaken  for  the 
other  by  the  passing  traveller. 
They  are  distinguished  chiefly 
by  the  difference  in  their  fruit. 
The  fruit  of  the  Borassus  I 
have  already  described.  That 
of  the  Hyphaine  is  much 
smaller — the  size  of  a  large 
egg-shaped  Java  orange.  Its 
covering  is  a  rich  chestnut- 
brown  and  has  a  sweetish  taste,  like  gingerbread.  The  kernel  of  the  nut  is  white 
and  extremely  hard  and  can  be  used  as  a  sort  of"  vegetable  ivory.  Innumerable 
things  are  made  of  the  tough  and  lissom  fronds,  and  the  trunk  of  this  palm  can 
be  made  very  useful  in  building  as  it  is  easily  split  with  wedges  into  board-like 
segments.     It  takes  a  beautiful  polish,  having  a  very  handsome  grain. 


-r^M^-M^, 


WILD    DATE    PALMS 


A  REED  BRAKE  (Phragnutes  communis) 


BOTANY 


217 


I  have  not  observed  in  British  Central  Africa  the  curious  swelling  of  the 
stem  either  of  the  Borassus  or  Hyphaene  which  is  so  noticeable  in  other  parts 
of  Africa,  such  as  the  East  Coast  or  the  Congo  Basin. 

A  wild  date  grows  either  on  high  mountain  slopes  which  are  well  watered 
or  on  the  banks  of  large  rivers  or  the  shores  of  a  lake.  It  is  a  handsome  palm ; 
though  occasionally  when  growing  to  a  great  height  the  stem  becomes  spindly 
and  has  a  tendency  to  curve  and  lean.  The  fronds  are  extremely  green  and 
never  have  that  glaucous  tint  so  characteristic  of  the  date  palm.  The  fruit 
when  ripe  is  just  eatable.  It  looks 
and  tastes  like  a  very  poor  form 
of  date. 

The  cocoanut  palm  should  do 
well  in  the  vicinity  of  all  our 
lakes  and  rivers  judging  by  the 
examples  already  growing  at 
Kotakota  and  on  the  Central 
Shire.  The  fruit  produced  at 
Kotakota  is  excellent. 

Handsome  Cycads  grow  on 
the  lower  slopes  of  Mount  Mlanje. 
I  have  not  observed  them  else- 
where. Wild  bananas  {Musa 
ensete)  grow  on  the  hillsides. 
They  are  really  beautiful  objects  ; 
the  trunk  is  much  thicker  and 
the  foliage  more  statuesque  and 
ample  than  in  the  cultivated 
species.  They  would  be  familiar 
objects  to  Londoners,  as  allied 
forms  are  planted  in  the  London 
parks  during  the  summer. 

Although  it  forms  an  abomin- 
able growth  to  force  one's  way 
through  on  account  of  the  stiff 
spear-blades,  XhePhragtuites  reed^ 
can  be  an  object  of  great  beauty 
with  its  enormous  flower-plumes 
of  grey -white.  But  the  leaves 
though  not  exactly  rigid  are  stiff 
and  have  a  sharply-pointed  ter- 
mination, and  these  points  pierce 
the  skin  if  abruptly  encountered. 
There  are  innumerable  other 
grasses,  handsome  in  the  outline 
of  their  growth  and  beautiful  in 
their  flowering.  One  small,  low 
grass  in  the  height  of  the  rainy 
season  spreads  the  ground  with 
a  fleecy  carpet  of  pale  mauve,  its 
abundant  inflorescence  being  of 

^  P.  communis.  plumes  and  young  shoot  of  phragmites 


2l8 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


that  tint.  Still  the  grass  of  Central  Africa  is  one  of  its  great  plagues.  Between 
the  months  of  November  and  February  there  grows  up  a  monstrous  herbage 
under   the  influence  of  the  sun  and  rain.     The  grass  stems  will  sometimes 

reach  eight  feet  in  height.  Not  only  do 
many  of  their  leaves  cut  like  razors  or 
stab  like  spears  but  in  the  autumn  months 
of  April  and  May  their  seeds  ripen  and 
in  some  cases  seek  distribution  by  methods 
painful  to  the  human  animal.  There  is 
one  especially — a  species  of  Stipa,  whose 
seeds  I  here  illustrate.  As  you  pass  along 
a  native  path  which  is  almost  invisible 
(for  grass  growing  on  either  side  leaves 
nothing  but  an  obscure  narrow  tunnel), 
the  seeds  of  this  Stipa  easily  detach 
themselves  and  descend  with  a  spiral 
flight  on  to  your  person,  the  slight  im- 
petus of  their  fall  carrying  the  sharp 
barbed  point  of  the  seed  right  into  the 
clothmg  ;  here  the  movement  of  the  body 
acting  on  the  barbs  of  the  seed  works  it 
farther  and  farther  in,  so  that  it  eventually  reaches  and  scratches  the  skin.  There 
are  cases  reported  of  this  Stipa  where  the  seed  has  actually  penetrated  the  skin 
of  certain  animals.  At  one  time  the  idea  was  mooted  that  the  seed  germinated 
thus  in  the  flesh,  but  this  is  not  true.     It  is  a  mere  accident  that  the  barbed 


BARBED   SEEDS   OF   STIPA 


PAPYRUS 


A   LARGE   DUCKWEED 

FOUND  ON    ALL  STAGNANT  WATER   IN   TROPICAL 

AFRICA  {Pistia  stratioUs) 


BOTANY 


219 


grain  happens  to  alight  on  an  animal.  What  it  intends  to  do  is  to  pitch,  point 
first,  on  the  ground,  which  is  hardened  by  the  dry  weather,  and  pierce  its  way 
through  the  soil  by  the  same  means  that  will  enable  it  to  pass  through  a  coat 
of  thick  texture.  The  feathery  plume  attached  to  the  seed  acts  as  a  kind  of 
float  to  carry  it  through  the  air  perpendicularly  towards  the  ground. 

There  is  no  lawn  grass  indigenous  to  Central  Africa,  but  the  Dub  grass 
of  Ceylon  has  been  introduced  by  Mr.  Whyte  and  the  late  Mr.  John  Buchanan, 


AN   ALBIZZIA  TREE 


and  has  thriven  wonderfully.  With  this  we  can  get  excellent  lawns  and  very 
superior  fodder  for  horses  and  cattle. 

Among  rushes  there  is  the  king  of  them,  the  papyrus.  I  have  referred  once 
or  twice  before  in  this  book  to  its  great  beauty,  and  will  not  weary  my  readers 
by  the  repetition  of  my  descriptions.  The  pith  of  the  papyrus  which  was  used 
by  the  Egyptians  as  a  material  on  which  to  write,  and  which  has  given  its  name 
to  "  paper,"  appears  to  possess  a  sugary  or  starchy  quality,  so  that  when  the 
flattened  strips  of  rolled-out  pith  are  moistened  the  edge  of  one  can  be  laid  on 
the  edge  of  the  other,  and  will  adhere  to  it ;  and  this,  I  believe,  is  the  way 
sheets  of  paper  were  made.  Why  it  should  not  once  more  be  brought  into  use 
as  a  paper-making  material  I  do  not  know. 

Amongst  the  graceful  types  of  vegetation  mention  must  no^  be  omitted  of 


220 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


the  tree  ferns  on  the  mountains  and  the  many  beautiful  ferns  to  be  found  in 
moist  places.  The  Osmunda  grows  luxuriantly  in  the  stream  valleys,  and  there 
are  many  varieties  of  maiden-hair.  The  dear  familiar  bracken  appears  directly 
an  altitude  of  3000  feet  is  reached,  and  flourishes  thence  up  to  6000  feet ;  in 
company  with  it  grows  the  blackberry  bramble,  and  the  two  together  gladden 

the  exile's  heart  like  emissaries 
from  home. 

There  are  many  noble  forest 
trees  to  be  signalised  for  their 
beauty  of  outline  and  foliage. 

There  are  the  Parinariums, 
which  tower  up  a  hundred  feet 
into  the  air;  the  velvet -foliaged 
Albizzia;  the  Ebony  {Diospyros)\ 
the  Khaya  (JC,  senegalensis) ;  the 
Pterocarpus,  with  its  glorious  fort- 
night of  efflorescence,  when  the 
whole  tree  is  a  mass  of  large 
yellow  flowers,  and  exhales  an 
intoxicating  odour  of  honey,  at- 
tracting thereby  thousands  of 
bees ;  and  glossy-leaved  fig  trees 
of  the  genus  Ficus}  These  hand- 
some forest  trees,  however,  are 
generally  restricted  to  the  banks 
of  rivers  or  the  shores  of  lakes, 
or  else  to  moist  mountain  slopes. 
The  bulk  of  the  country  is  covered 
by  a  forest  of  thin  and  poor  type: — 
chiefly  Trachylobiums  and  Copai- 
feras,  Hymenocardias,  Anonas 
and  Misuko  {Uapaca  kirkiana), 
besides  certain  vines  of  large  size 
growing  in  the  habit  of  a  shrub, 
and  acacias  which  are  of  various 
forms  and  very  little  foliage. 
Some  of  these  acacia  trees  are 
more  clothed  when  they  grow 
near  water,  and  the  scent  of 
their  flowers  is  delightful ;  but  in  the  form  of  bushes  they  are  intolerable. 
Were  it  not  that  the  uniform  pale  green  of  the  trunks  and  branches  of  the 
better  developed  acacias  and  their  feathery  light-green  foliage  and  orange- 
coloured  flowerets  class  them  as  beautiful,  I  should  have  been  inclined  to  put 
them  in  the  division  of  the  vicious. 

There  is  malicious  vegetation  in  Africa.  There  is  a  small  plant — a  kind  of 
asafoetida — which  gives  forth  the  most  noxious  smell  of  bad  drains  when  it 
is  trampled  on.  There  are  various  kinds  of  arums  that  give  out  a  sickening 
odour;  an  euphorbia   which,  when  broken,  spurts  out  a  poisonous  milk,  one 

^  These  are  especially  beautiful  at  the  north  end  of  Lake  Nyasa  where  they  are  grown  by  the  natives 
for  the  sake  of  the  shade  they  give.  Their  branches  have  long  brown  rootlets  which  gradually  reach 
to  the  ground  where  they  make  independent  growth,  as  is  done  by  the  Banyan  tree  in  India. 


THE   MUCUNA   BEAN 


BOTANY 


221 


drop  of  which  in  the  eye  will  bring  about  severe  inflammation  ;  very  thorny 
mimosas  (sensitive  plant);  and  a  horrid  little  vine^  growing  on  all  cultivated 
ground,  and  springing  up  from  underground  tubers  which  are  very  difficult 
to  extirpate.  An  atrocious  pest,  the  "Spanish  needle,"  has  reached  this 
country.  It  is  found  all  round  the  world  now  in  the  cultivated  regions  of 
the  Tropics.  The  flower  is  a  poor  irregular  composite,  like  a  lanky  daisy, 
with  white  petals  and  yellow  centre,  and  seeds  that  develop  at  one  end 
a  number  of  tiny  hooks,  so  that  passing  through  a  field  where  this  weed 
grows  one's  trousers  bristle  with    innumerable  brown  seeds,  clinging   tightly 

to  the  cloth.  A  still  greater 
pest  is  the  Mucuna^  bean,  of 
which  I  give  an  illustration.  It 
is  a  creeper  that  grows  over 
bushes  and  trees.  The  seed  pods 
are  covered  with  tiny  silky  hairs 
of  a  reddish  -  brown.  These,  if 
touched  by  the  skin,  cause  a 
most  extraordinary,  most  extra- 
vagant irritation — a  sort  of  nettle 
rash.  The  skin  is  covered  with 
large  white  weals  and  the  irrita- 
tion and  heat  are  so  bad  that 
nothing  but  stripping  and  rubbing 
oneself  with  a  cooling  lotion  afford 
relief  This  cow  itch  is  of  very 
subtle  dispersal.  Clothes  which 
have  been  washed  are  laid  out  to 
dry  on  bushes,  and  attract  a  few 
of  the  hairs  off"  the  seed  pods  of 
the  Mucuna,  To  all  appearance 
they  might  have  nothing  on  them 
to  attract  attention,  but  they  are 
no  sooner  worn  next  the  skin  than  a  sensation  as  of  innumerable  fleas  attacking 
one  begins  to  be  felt  until  at  last  the  irritation  is  unendurable.  The  cow  itch 
is  a  thing  which  particularly  affects  old  clearings  and  abandoned  plantations, 
and  therefore  grows  frequently  by  the  roadside  in  Central  Africa  where  the 
path  traverses  districts  that  have  been  inhabited. 

A  Smilax  yam  is  a  noxious  thing,  as  it  twines  round  the  shrubs  and  plants 
and  throttles  them  ;  moreover  the  under  side  of  the  stalks  are  armed  with 
sharp  thorns  which  tear  the  skin  when  one  is  forcing  a  way  through  the  bush. 
A  lily,  supposed  to  be  the  species  which  for  inadequate  reasons  was  named  by 
Linnaeus  Gloriosa  superba,  is  very  poisonous  to  cattle  or  horses.  But  for 
this  reputation  (which  is  not  absolutely  proved)  it  is  a  pretty  thing ;  the 
flowers  develop,  as  they  expand,  from  yellow-green  to  brownish-crimson  and 
the  terminations  of  the  leaves  are  prolonged  into  fantastic  tendrils. 

The  grotesque  in  vegetation  is  well  represented.  Look  at  the  Baobab  tree 
without  its  leaves !  Is  it  not  as  though  nature  had  perpetrated  a  loathsome 
jest?      Its  enormous  bulk  (they  have  been  measured  80  feet  in  girth)  which 

^  This  Vitis  serpens,  as  it  is  called,  clambers  over  and  throttles  plant  after  plant.  At  the  same  time 
when  it  has  reached  a  fence  and  spread  itself  out  with  its  pretty  red-currant-like  grapes  it  is  very 
decorative.  ^  Chiieze  of  many  parts  of  Nyasaland, 


BAOBAB   TREE 


222 


BRITISH    CENTRAL    AFRICA 


after  all  is  nothing  but  soft,  fibrous,  pithy  wood  inside  the  hard  rind  ;  its  gouty 
limbs  springing  from  the  massive  trunk  and  so  inadequately  fulfilling  the 
promise  of  majesty ;  and  the  leprous  look  of  the  whole  object  with  its  smooth, 

shiny,  dirty-pink  bark  make  up  a  total  that  is  wholly 
grotesque.  The  leaves  only  remain  on  this  tree  for 
about  five  months,  and  even  then  they  are  so  thinly 
scattered  as  to  give  no  shade.  The  flowers  are  hand- 
some as  they  open,  but  soon  tarnish  and  turn  brown, 
as  though  the  whole  tree  were  permeated  with  a  sickly- 
taint.  The  seed  vessels,  shaped  like  huge  bean-pods, 
hang  perpendicularly  from  the  branches  by  string-like 
stalks  and  are  covered  with  a  thin  grey  plush.  Broken 
open  they  will  be  found  to  contain  a  white  pith,  yield- 
ing a  pleasant  acid  taste,  which  can  be  made  into  a 
drink  faintly  resembling  lemonade. 

Another  grotesque  thing  is  the  Euphorbia,  which 
grows  in  the  plains — a  cube- like  stem  with  a  few  flat 
segments  branching  off  it ;  or  the  Candelabra  Euphor- 
bia found  in  the  low  country  and  on  the  harsher 
uplands.  The  species  of  this  Euphorbia  which  grows 
in  the  hills  does  not  reach  the  same  size  as  the 
monster  of  the  plains.  It  looks,  with  the  blood-red 
aloes  growing  in  the  same  locality,  a  fit  vegetation  to 
surround  the  entrance  to  a  witches*  cavern.  The 
subsidiary  branches  are  like  innumerable  scorpion 
tails,  as  though  a  congeries  of  immense  scorpions 
THE  EUPHORBIA  OF  THE  PLAINS  Were  collected  in  a  knot  with  their  tails  in  the  air. 

There   are   many   other    Euphorbias    not   already 
instanced  which  are  distinctly  quaint,  though  their  absurdity  has  a  dash  of  the 
saturnine.     Their  determination  to  grow^  absolutely  green  flowers,  when  nearly 
every  other  plant  goes  in  for  colour, 
shows  a  trait  of  originality. 

The  Aloe  when  it  is  in  blossom 
and  throws  up  its  spike  of  coral 
coloured  tubes,  can  be  almost  pretty ; 
otherwise  without  flowers  it  is  gro- 
tesque as  it  sprawls  over  the  ground 
and  its  thick-spotted  red  and  green 
leaves  with  sharp  serrated  edges  and 
long  whip-like  terminations  writhe  in 
ascending  whorls  from  the  crouching 
woody  stem. 

The  Kniphofia  (the  "red-hot 
poker"  of  our  gardens)  is  on  the 
borderland  between  the  grotesque 
and  the  beautiful.  When  its  flower 
spike  is  in  full  bearing  and  the  many 

little  tube-like  flowers  are  scarlet,  lightening  into  yellow,  it  offers  a  fine  body 
of  colour  ;  but  without  the  bloom  the  plant  with  its  limp  attenuated  leaves 
{green  and  spotted  with  white,  having  much  of  the  aloe's  fleshiness  without 
its  pompous  stiflhess)  looks  like  some  monstrous  caricature  of  a  lily  made  in 


CANDELABRA   EUPHORBIAS 


BOTANY  223 

a  madman's  world.  The  Protea  has  tried  to  be  beautiful  but  it  merely  succeeds 
in  being  strange,  with  its  immense  saucer-shaped  flowers  like  gigantic  daisies. 
These  soon  wither  and  yet  remain  on  the  bush,  hideous  black  objects,  for  many 
months  afterwards.  The  Protea  shrub  is  only  fit  to  look  at  during  one  month 
in  the  year. 

The  many  creepers  of  the  forests  develop  huge  lianas.  These  are  chiefly 
characteristic  of  the  various  rubber-vines  of  the  genus  Landolpkia. 

The  Sansevieria   plants  should  be  classed  amongst 
the   grotesque   if  they   did    not    lead    us    by   a   natural 
transition  to  the  useful.     They  are  absurd  things,  just 
segments   of  crude   vegetation   which    might  be    stalks, 
but  which  are,  I   suppose,  leaves  that  come  up  out  of 
the  ground  anyhow.  One  triangular  leaf  may  be  standing 
alone,  although  there  may  be  a  Stonehenge  clump  of 
four  or  five  others  growing  stiffly  together  and  yet  having 
as  little  connection  with  each  other  as  possible.    It  is  very 
rare  to  see  these  things  in  flower.     When  they  do  flow^er 
the  blossom  comes  out  at  the  side  of  the  loaf,  which  makes 
you  think  that  the  leaf  after  all  is  a  stalk.  Ordinarily 
they  look  as  though  they  had  forgotten  where 
they  came  from  and  what  they  were  doing, 
and  whether  they  should  or  should  not 
have  leaves  or  stalks  or  flowers. 
They   are  fleshy,   but  with    limp 
leathery  edges,  and  they  produce 
excellent  fibre.     A  company  has 
been  started  for  the  cultivation  of 
the  Sansevieria,   which  grows  in 
dry,  stony  ground  ;    but  unfortu- 
nately  at   the    present   time   the 
price  of  fibre  is  so  low  that  the     r^^j^  ^.^    ^^p- 
export  of  the  Sansevieria  will  not 
yield  large  profits.  ^ 

Fibre  is  also  obtained  from  the  a  landolphia  liana 

Aloes,  Baobab    and  the  arboreal 

Hibiscus  ;  the  extraordinary  Kigelia  tree  (whose  seed  pods  are  sometimes  nearly 
as  thick  as  a  man's  thigh  and  like  a  huge  pendant  sausage  in  shape)  contains  in 
its  seed  pods  a  fibrous  material  like  the  Egyptian  Lufah  which  can  be  used  for 
rubbing  the  skin  after  a  bath,  and  might  be  utilised  for  many  other  purposes. 
The  natives  take  the  seeds  of  these  Kigelia  pods  and  roast  and  eat  them  in 
times  of  scarcity.  A  species  of  hemp,  probably  introduced,  grows  wild  all 
over  British  Central  Africa.  It  is  smoked  by  the  natives,  as  I  have  already 
stated.  This  hemp  might  also  be  got  to  yield  a  fibre,  and  some  of  the  palms 
would  do  the  same. 

Oils  are  produced  by  the  Sesamimi  (a  handsome  flowering  plant  with  large 
mauve-pink  blossoms),  by  several  species  of  Vitex,  by  the  Castor  oil  plant 
{Ricinus)  (which  grows  in  extravagant  abundance  in  and  near  to  the  native 
settlements),  by  the  Oil  palm  found  in  North-West  Nyasaland,  by  the  ground 
nuts  (Arachis  and  Voandzeia,  which  are  almost  indigenous) ;  and  by  other 
seeds  and  nuts  not  yet  identified. 

For    timber   there    are    the    African    teak    {Oldfieldia)  \    the    Khaya ;    the 


224 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


Grewia  (often  twelve  feet  in  circumference  with  black  hard  wood  in  the  middle 
through  which  no  insect  can  penetrate);  various  species  of  Vitex ;  the 
Parinariuin ;  the  Afzelia  (whose  bark  is  often  made  into  boxes) ;  the  Ebony 
(Diospyros) ;  the  Ironwood  {Copaiferd) ;  the  Msuko  (Uapaca  kirkiana)  ;  and  the 
Mlanje  Cedar  {Widdringtonia  whytei). 


SANSEVIERIA   HBRE    PLANT 


Drugs  are  obtained  from  the  Strophanthus  creeper^  (used  for  poisoning 
arrows  and  killing  fish,  valuable  in  affections  of  the  heart) ;  from  the  Erythroph- 
la:iiin  (the  bark  of  which  produces  a  violent  emetic  or  poison  known  as  Muavi)\ 
from  the  roots  of  certain  nettles  (which  furnish  purgatives) ;  from  the  seeds  of 
the  Crotons,  the  Castor  oil  plant,  certain  beans,  euphorbias,  and  innumerable 

^  The  Strophanthus  may  be  rt  cognised  by  the  extraordinary  position  of  its  two  seed  pods  which  grow 
exactly  at  the  end  of  the  stalk  and  opposite  to  each  other  so  that  they  look  like  one  large  pod  placed  at 
right  angles  to  the  end  of  the  stalk. 


BOTANY 


225 


roots,  leaves,  flowers,  seeds  and  barks  not  as  yet  identified  and  named.  Many  of 
these  like  the  Strophanthus  may  prove  valuable  additions  to  our  Pharmacopceia. 
The  natives  eat  the  fruit  of  the  Amomum.  The  flower  of  this  plant 
appears  a  short  distance  above  the  ground  in  the  spring  months.  One  species 
is  a  lovely  purple-red,  another  a  pink-mauve,  a  third  crocus-yellow,  and  a  fourth 


GROWTH   OF   BRANCHES  ;    FOLIAC.E  ;    AND  CONES  OF   THE   MLANJE   CEDAR 
{VViddringionia  tvhytei) 

white.  They  look  at  a  distance  like  exaggerated  crocuses.  Preceding  the 
florescence  of  the  yellow  species,  large  flat,  yellow  leaves  appear,  and  spread 
over  the  surface  of  the  soil  ;  but  in  the  case  of  the  purple  Amomums  the 
flower  goes  before  the  leaf,  and  the  tall  foliage  which  then  follows  is  somewhat 
like  a  dwarf  banana,  to  which  genus  the  Amomums  are  distantly  related.  Their 
seed  vessels  are  bright  red,  and  are  divided  into  sections,  each  with  a  black 
seed.     The  pulp  surrounding  them  is   pleasantly  acid  and   is  chewed  by  the 


226 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


natives.  The  seeds  of  one  Amomum  are  very  aromatic,  and  form  the  "  Mala- 
guetta  "  pepper  from  West  Africa — of  which  our  ancestors  were  so  fond,  that 
it  proved  in  the  beginning  of  our  trade  with  the  Dark  Continent,  a  more 
powerful  motive  for  sending  ships  to  West  Africa  than  the  obtaining  of  slaves 
or  gold. 

The  fruits  of  the  Msuko  {Uapaca\  the  Parinarium,  the  Tamarind  (a  very 
common  tree  in  the  lowlands),  the  Sycomore  fig,  certain  species  of  Strychnos, 


3 


YOUNG   MLANJE  CEDAR 

the  Anona  or  Custard  Apple,  and  the  various  kinds  of  Landolphia  are  much 
eaten  by  the  natives.  With  the  exception  of  the  Tamarind,  they  offer  little 
attraction  to  the  European. 

Many  trees  have  a  sweet  or  an  edible  gum,  but  I  have  not  been  able 
to  identify  the  species.  From  the  fact  that  a  Trachylobium  is  found  there 
may  be  gum  copal,  but  I  cannot  say  that  any  has  been  brought  to  light  as  yet. 
Rubber  is  obtained  from  two  or  more  species  of  Landolphia,  also  from  Finis, 
and  from  the  handsome  tree  or  shrub  Tabernccnwntana. 


BOTANICAL   APPENDICES  227 


APPENDIX    I. 

Xhe  following  essay  an  the  "Useful  Trees  of  British  Central  Africa"  is  the 
prize  essay  among  several  sent  in  from  the  native  scholars  of  the  Blantyre 
Mission  Schools  (Church  of  Scotland)  to  compete  for  a  prize  I  offered  .  for  the 
best  description  in  the  Ci-nyanja  language  of  the  Useful  Trees  of  the 
Protectorate. 

The  essay  here  given  was  written  in  Ci-nyanja  by  Harry  Kambwiri,  one  of 
the  native  scholars  of  the  Mission,  and  has  been  kindly  translated  for  me  into 
English  by  the  Rev.  Alexander  Hetherwick,  M.A.,  of  the  Church  of  Scotland 
Mission. — H.  H.  J. 

AN   ESSAY   ON 
THE   USEFUL  TREES   OF   BRITISH   CENTRAL  AFRICA 

By    harry    kambwiri 

Chirama  grows  near  marshy  ground,  or  in  the  middle  of  the  marsh  itself.  It  is  of 
smooth  bark,  in  parts  scaly.  It  bears  a  fruit  which  is  used  as  medicine  for  pleuritic 
or  neuralgic  pains  in  the  chest.  The  fruit  is  plucked,  then  roasted  by  the  fire,  and  applied 
to  the  painful  spot,  for  the  relief  of  the  pain. 

Chandimbo  ^  grows  on  any  kind  of  sandy  soil.  It  has  an  edible  fruit,  black  in  colour 
On  removing  the  outer  rind  it  is  found  exceedingly  pleasant,  or  on  simply  chewing  in  the 
mouth  it  resembles  a  sweetmeat.  The  wood  of  it  is  used  for  making  pestles,  spoons, 
pillows  and  drums.  It  is  apt  to  crack.  The  tree  is  not  a  pretty  one;  it  has  a  large 
number  of  branches ;  the  wood  is  not  hard ;  it  is  useless  as  a  firewood ;  cuttings 
planted  out  grow  well,  and  are  employed  as  fencing  poles. 

Msuko  2  grows  on  sandy  soil,  and  nowhere  close  to  water.  Its  fruit  reaches  maturity 
in  October,  and  is  edible  in  November  and  December.  .  When  the  fruit  is  ripe  it 
falls  of  itself,  and  is  picked  up  as  an  edible  fruit  exceedingly  good.  In  famine  seasons 
people  squeeze  the  fruit  into  a  dish,  mash  it  up,  and  eat  it. 

The  wood  of  it  is  used  for  boards,  which  are  good  for  tables,  chairs,  desks,  etc.,  etc. 
The  boards  are  red  in  colour,  but  are  apt  to  crack.  If  left,  however,  till  thoroughly  dry 
it  does  not  crack. 

It  is  used  by  women  as  firewood  for  burning  pots,  plates,  etc.,  but  it  leaves  a  very 
abundant  ash. 

It  is  employed  in  medicine.  Pieces  are  chipped  off  and  steeped.  The  water  is  then 
drunk.     It  has  an  astringent  taste. 

It  is  not  a  deep  rooter — only  the  tap  root  goes  down  any  distance. 

It  is  good  for  charcoal  making;  also  is  used  for  couples,  etc.,  in  house-building,  as 
it  cannot  be  bored  by  wood  insects.  If  the  seeds  are  planted  they  grow  into  a  tree,  but 
very  slowly. 

Mpindimbi^  grows  on  sandy  soil  near  water.  The  fruit  is  edible,  but  bad  smelling, 
and  is  usually  only  eaten  by  animals.  The  timber  is  white,  and  is  easily  made  into 
boards.  If  cut  green  the  wood  cracks,  but  not  if  cut  dry.  It  is  made  into  spoons, 
mortars,  pillows,  etc.  One  species,  called  chipindimbiy  is  used  in  medicine.  If  a  child 
is  feverish  its  leaves  are  taken  and  pounded  and  mixed  with  water,  in  which  the  child 
is  then  bathed. 

*  Erylhritia  tomentosa  (?).— H.  II.  J.         *  Uapaca  kirkiana,—Y{.  H.  J.         ^   ViUx  sp.— H.  II.  J. 


228  BRITISH   CENTRAL   AFRICA 

Mnyonyeve^  grows  in  flat,  open,  damp  soil,  or  near  water.  Its  fruit,  when  ripe,  is 
black,  and  is  edible.  I  think  the  Europeans  might  employ  it  after  pounding  in  the 
manufacture  of  ink.     Its  wood  is  used  in  furniture-making. 

Mpingo^  is  a  good  wood,  used  in  making  the  masts  of  dhows.  With  the  inner 
wood  natives  make  canes,  knife-handles,  etc.  It  grows  near  streams,  and  is  always 
seen  on  the  banks  of  big  rivers.  Long  ago  people  employed  this  wood  in  making 
arrow-heads,  as  it  is  exceedingly  hard. 

Mkundanguluwe  grows  on  sandy  soil.  Is  used  in  making  knobkerries,  tobacco  pipes. 
It  takes  on  a  good  polish. 

Mpinjipinji  is  a  choice  fruit  tree.  It  is  propagated  from  cuttings,  and  takes  five 
years  before  reaching  maturity. 

Masau  grows  anywhere  on  high  ground.  The  surface  of  the  tree  is  covered  with 
small  prickles.  It  has  short,  small  leaves  and  a  small  fruit.  When  ripe  the  fruit  is  red 
It  is  then  plucked  or  picked  off  the  ground  where  it  may  have  fallen.  It  is  boiled  in  a 
pot  into  which  a  gun -barrel  has  been  inserted.  The  pot  is  covered  up,  and  a  fire 
is  kindled  beneath  it.  Water  is  poured  on  the  gun-barrel,  and  the  distilled  liquid  is 
caught  in  a  bottle  as  Kachaso  (spirits). 

Mkakatuku  grows  on  sandy  soil.  It  is  a  very  hard  wood,  hence  its  name.  The 
wood  is  good  at  the  heart  of  the  stem.  People  scrape  off  the  bark,  steep  it,  and 
drink  the  liquid. 

Mkwesu  grows  near  the  river  or  lake  on  small  ant  hills.  The  wood  is  very  hard. 
The  fruit  is  long  and  finger-like.     The  wood  is  good  for  making  boards  for  furniture,  etc. 

Mtundula  grows  near  a  stream.  Its  fruit  is  edible  and  sweet.  The  bark  is  used 
for  "dyeing  cloth  of  a  red  colour,  like  Turkey-red  calico.  The  wood  can  be  made 
into  boards. 

Muungutwa — a  large  tree  growing  in  the  long  grass  near  a  stream.  It  produces 
a  red  fruit  inedible  save  by  elephants.  The  wood  is  used  for  making  mortars,  and  also 
for  canoes. 

Chita sy a  is  a  hard  wood  that  does  not,  however,  grow  to  any  size.  It  grows  on  sandy 
soil.     The  wood  is  used  in  making  head-rests  (pillows)  and  lip  ornaments  for  women. 

Mkuyu  2  grows  either  near  a  stream  or  on  high  ground.  If  the  stem  is  cut  it  exudes 
a  white  sap  which  is  used  in  smearing  arrows,  so  as  to  harden  them.  The  fruit  is  called 
ngiiyu^  and  is  edible.  In  seasons  of  famine  the  fruit  is  plucked  when  still  green,  and 
pounded  and  eaten  as  a  porridge  with  fowl  as  relish.  If  picked  up  hard  and  dry  the  fruit 
is  mashed  up  and  cooked.  The  bark  of  the  tree  gives  good  bark-rope.  It  affords  good 
shade.  The  fruit  is  eaten  by  the  birds.  There  is  another  species  of  fig  called  mpufube^ 
with  a  larger  fruit.     If  many  of  the  fruit  are  eaten  they  are  apt  to  cause  sore  throat. 

Mbawa  *  grows  near  a  stream  or  in  dense  clumps  of  forest.  It  is  a  large  tree.  The 
fruit  is  not  edible,  but  the  seeds  of  it  are  roasted,  pounded,  and  used  in  dyeing  or  softening 
bark-cloth.  The  bark  of  the  tree  is  thick.  The  wood  is  used  in  canoe-making.  The 
Europeans  make  excellent  boards  of  it,  as  it  does  not  crack,  which  they  make  into  articles 
of  furniture.  The  natives  use  it  as  a  medicine  for  the  stomach.  They  chip  off  pieces 
of  bark  and  steep  them  in  a  dish,  and  drink  the  water. 

Mngwenye  is  a  special  large-sized  tree,  which  grows  near  streams.  Chips  of  the  bark 
are  used  as  medicine  for  the  stomach.  They  are  steeped  in  water,  and  the  water  is  drunk. 
The  leaves  are  long  and  narrow.  The  fruit  is  small  and  inedible.  The  wood  makes 
excellent  boards,  of  a  light  colour,  which  crack  only  to  a  small  extent.  The  wood  is 
very  hard,  and  is  used  for  making  furniture.     It  is  also  used  in  canoe-making. 

^  Nuxia  congesta. — II.  H.  J.  *  Ebony — Dhspyros  sp. — 11.  H.  J. 

^  Fi'cus  sycotnortis. — H.  H.  J.  *  Khaya  senegaieitsh. — H.  H.  J. 


BOTANICAL   APPENDICES  229 

Msumbuti  grows  anywhere  on  sandy  soil.  Its  bark  is  used  in  making  bark -cloth, 
and  also  bark -rope.     When  dry  the  timber  makes  good  firewood. 

Napiri^  grows  on  flat,  open,  wet  plains,  also  on  higher  ground.  The  natives 
use  the  wood  in  making  pestles  for  pounding  grain,  as  it  is  hard  and  heavy.  It  makes 
good  firewood. 

Mlombwa  grows  anywhere  on  sandy  soil  or  on  the  hills.  By  partially  burning  it 
makes  good  charcoal.  The  sap  is  red  and  is  sticky  to  the  touch.  The  natives  make 
mortars,  drums,  spoons,  pestles,  etc.  It  makes  beautiful  boards.  The  bark  is  used  as 
medicine  for  nettlerash.  The  fruit  is  used  in  pleuritic  pains  of  the  chest.  It  is  roasted, 
and  the  ash  is  punctured  into  the  painful  spot. 

Nkomwa  grows  near  a  stream.  It  is  used  in  making  drums,  pestles,  spoons,  pillows. 
It  is  a  very  light  wood,  and  makes  good  boards.  The  leaves  are  small,  and  the  bark 
is  thin. 

MJombo^  grows  near  streams  or  on  sandy  soil.  The  fruit  is  eaten  by  baboons. 
Natives  make  bark -cloth  and  strong  bark -rope. 

Mkalate  grows  on  sandy  soil,  especially  near  the  foot  of  hills.  It  is  used  in  making 
wall  posts  for  houses,  and  roofing. 

Balisa  grows  on  high  ground.  It  makes  into  good  boards.  The  wood  of  it  is  very 
hard.     The  natives  here  make  good  pestles  of  it. 

Nkako  grows  near  streams  or  in  clumps  of  forest  trees.  Natives  make  head-rests  of  it, 
and  wooden  arrow-heads  for  shooting  small  birds.     The  wood  is  good  and  hard. 

MUndimilo  grows  on  high  ground  or  on  hills.  It  blossoms  into  flowers  on  the 
approach  of  the  rainy  season.  Natives  use  the  wood  for  making  drums,  which  are  strong 
and  give  out  plenty  of  sound.     Chips  of  the  bark  are  used  in  medicine. 

Mbanga  grows  on  high  ground.  It  is  an  exceedingly  hard  wood.  The  leaves  are 
used  as  medicine  in  headache.  They  are  pounded  or  steeped  in  a  pot  or  basin,  and  the 
face  is  washed  with  the  water.  Sometimes  simply  the  smell  of  the  leaves  is  sufficient.  It 
makes  an  excellent  medicine,  and  effects  a  cure  after  repeated  applications.  When  dry 
the  wood  makes  good  firewood  which  leaves  no  ash. 

Mlambe,^  the  largest  tree  in  this  country,  grows  near  water.  It  produces  a  fruit  called 
malambe,  the  inside  of  which  is  white  and  is  eaten  thus : — the  inside  is  scooped  out, 
mixed  with  water,  and  eaten.  Large  strips  of  the  wood  are  taken  and  beaten,  so  as  to 
form  a  fibre  from  which  cord  is  made.     The  tree  produces  very  few  leaves. 

Mkongomwa  is  a  good  tree  for  shade.  It  grows  near  the  River  Shire,  and  also  in  the 
Mangoni  country. 

Ngosa  grows  on  flat  plains  near  rivers.  The  wood  on  being  cut  is  very  soft.  The 
bark  is  used  in  making  cord  for  weaving  nets  or  sewing  sleeping  mats.  The  fruit  is 
roasted  and  mixed  with  tobacco  snuff"  as  a  flavouring. 

Mlundo  grows  anywhere  on  sandy  soil.  The  leaves  are  small;  the  wood  is  hard: 
the  fruit  is  inedible.  It  is  used  as  medicine  for  the  stomach  by  steeping  the  bark  and 
drinking  the  water,  or  by  twisting  it  into  a  cord  and  wearing  the  cord  tied  round  the  waist. 

Chikujumbu  grows  on  sandy  soil  or  near  a  stream.  The  bark  is  covered  with  small 
scales.  One  is  growing  in  the  Square  at  Blantyre  Mission.  The  wood  is  used  for 
making  mortars,  pestles,  spoons  and  pillows. 

Chutnbu  is  used  as  stomach  medicine.  The  bark  is  chipped  off"  and  steeped,  and 
the  water  is  drunk.  It  is  also  used  in  treating  boils.  The  boil  is  opened  with  a  sharp 
point  made  of  this  wood  which  prevents  it  recurring  again.  The  tree  grows  on  sandy 
5oil  near  ant-hills.     It  is  a  very  soft  wood. 


'  Copaifera  sp.,  allied  to  the  Mopane  or  **  ironwood"  tree  of  Livingstone. — H.  H.  J. 

'  Brachystegia  longifolia.—\\.  H.J.  ^  The  Baobab — Adansonia  digitata. — H.  H. 


J- 


230  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

Mtawa  grows  on  any  kind  of  soil.  The  wood  is  not  hard.  When  dry  it  is  not 
heavy,  but  when  green,  natives  make  good  bark-cloth  of  it,  and  rope. 

Msopa  is  used  in  medicine,  and  also  to  make  bows.  It  makes  good  boards.  Chips 
of  it  are  steeped  in  the  water  where  bark-cloth  is  steeped,  so  as  to  dye  it  black.  The 
wood  is  hard  to  cut  and  cracks.     It  grows  close  to  streams  or  in  damp,  marshy  spots. 

Mkwale  grows  on  plains,  as  on  the  bank  of  the  Tuchila.  It  is  used  for  making 
spoons,  pestles,  and  lip-rings  worn  by  native  women.    It  is  very  white,  and  does  not  crack. 

Msolo  grows  on  sandy  soil,  and  makes  good  boards.  Natives  cut  it  into  pestles, 
pipes,  and  spoons.  It  will  not  make  mortars  because  it  is  too  hard.  The  fruit  is  eaten 
by  game  such  as  bushbuck,  etc. 

Msechela  grows  on  sandy  soil  near  a  hill.  It  is  very  like  the  msuku  tree,  but  has 
smaller  leaves.  It  makes  as  good  boards  as  the  msuku  tree.  The  fruit  is  small  and 
edible. 

Mchenje  grows  on  plains  near  ant-hills.  The  bark  is  rough  and  the  leaves  are  small. 
It  is  used  in  medicine  by  steeping  chips  of  it  in  water,  and  drinking  the  water.  It  is 
used  as  medicine  for  game-traps.  The  fruit  is  pounded  and  placed  in  the  traps.  In 
seasons  of  famine  it  is  eaten  as  a  food. 

Nkungunyanjila  grows  anywhere  near  the  river.  Its  fruit  is  not  eatable.  The  wood 
makes  good  boards.  It  is  used  as  medicine  for  sores,  by  steeping  chips  of  the  wood 
in  water,  and  washing  over  the  wound  by  means  of  a  feather. 

Chiwimbi  grows  near  streams.  The  stem  is  light  in  colour.  The  leaves  are  long  and 
narrow.  The  natives  make  the  wood  into  pestles,  spoons,  mortars,  etc.  It  makes  good 
boards  of  a  white  colour.  It  is  also  used  in  making  drums,  and  as  stomach  medicine  in 
fever. 

Mkwakwa  produces  a  nice  fruit.  It  grows  on  hills  in  dense  clumps  of  trees.  The 
fruit  is  sweet  and  tastes  like  pineapple.  •    . 

Mguwanguwo  is  used  in  medicine  by  steeping  the  bark.  It  has  a  very  bitter  taste 
like  quinine.     It  makes  into  good  boards. 

Mseje  cuts  into  good  boards.  It  is  not  hard  to  saw  up.  The  wood  is  red  in  colour. 
It  grows  on  sandy  soil.     When  the  tree  is  small  its  branches  make  good  pestles. 

M;oie  ^  is  a  good  w-ood  used  in  canoe-making.  It  is  a  very  tall  tree,  with  the  leaves 
all  at  the  top.     It  makes  into  very  strong  canoes.     It  grows  on  the  river  and  at  Linjisi. 

Sanya  is  a  tree  that  grows  at  the  river,  and  is  used  in  making  wall-posts  of  houses, 
and  in  twisting  into  ropes.     It  is  a  very  common  tree. 

Mtomoni  grows  on  sandy  soil  and  hilly  country.  It  is  used  in  medicine.  It  makes 
a  good  tree  for  fence-posts,  as  it  takes  root  and  grows.  The  sap  is  used  in  smearing  the 
tops  of  drums,  that  the  india-rubber  may  adhere  to  the  skin.     The  fruit  is  inedible. 

Mbewe  grows  on  sandy  soil.  Long  ago  the  wood  was  used  for  arrow-heads.  It  is 
used  also  in  smelting  and  working  iron,  that  the  metal  may  be  made  readily  malleable. 

MpeUle  grows  on  plains  near  the  river.  The  tree  is  one  used  in  canoe-making,  as  it 
does  not  crack. 

Mtondo  is  found  at  the  river,  and  is  used  in  canoe-making,  and  in  making  mortars, 
pestles,  etc.     The  fruit,  which  is  called  Matondo^  is  edible. 

Msichisi"^  grows  near  streams.  The  wood  is  used  in  making  stocks  of  guns,  pestles, 
pillows. 

Msangti^  a  canoe  tree.    The  bark  is  rough,  the  leaves  are  small.    It  grows  at  the  river. 

Msumwa  grows  at  the  river;  somewhat  rough  in  the  bark.  The  tree  is  useful  in 
canoe- making. 

*  Parinarium  sp. — H.  H.  J.  '  Wild  date  palm,  Phccnix  sp. — H.  H.  J. 


BOTANICAL   APPENDICES  231 

Mkunde  ^  grows  near  streams.  Is  useful  in  canoe-makipg.  The  fruit  is  edible,  but  is 
apt  to  discolour  the  teeth. 

Dululu  grows  on  sandy  soil.  It  is  used  in  making  drums,  mortars,  spoons,  etc.  It 
makes  good  boards.     The  root  also  is  used  in  drum-making.     It  is  a  light  wood. 

Mtondewoko  is  used  in  canoe-making.  Elephants  are  fond  of  the  fruit.  The  wood 
is  hard  and  very  heavy.     It  is  used  in  making  the  big  drums  used  by  the  river  people. 

Mtundu  grows  in  clumps  of  trees  or  on  the  sites  of  deserted  villages.  Cuttings  are 
planted  at  the  chiefs  courtyard,  and  grow  very  quickly  into  a' big  tree  which  can  be 
readily  recognised. 

Mkoloflonjo  grows  on  plains.  The  wood  of  the  stem  is  very  full  of  knots.  It  is 
used  in  canoe-making.     It  is  found  at  the  river  and  at  the  Tuchila. 

Ntepa  makes  excellent  bark-rope.     It  grows  on  flat  grassy  plains. 

Ngachi?^  a  leafless  tree.  If  the  sap  drops  into  the  eye  it  causes  inflammation  of  the 
cornea.     It  is  used  as  a  fish  poison.     It  grows  on  the  sites  of  old  villages. 

Mdogodea  cuts  easily  into  boards.  It  is  a  smooth-barked  tree  with  small  leaves,  and 
grows  near  a  stream.     The  fruit  is  named  Mandogodia. 

Mvumo,^  or  Ngwalangwa^  is  a  river  tree  of  great  height.  The  fruit  is  edible.  The 
leaves  are  long  like  those  of  the  date  palm.  It  is  propagated  from  the  seed.  The  root 
also  is  used  as  food  in  a  similar  manner  to  the  carsana  plant. 

Mwaja — a  large  tree  growing  on  the  banks  of  streams.  It  is  red  in  colour,  and 
produces  a  fruit  as  large  as  a  pumpkin.  When  ripe  the  fruit  falls  to  the  ground.  People 
pick  it  up,  take  out  the  seeds,  roast  them,  and  eat  them.  The  tree  is  found  on  Mounts 
Mangoche  and  Nangu. 

Nangwesu  is  a  good  tree  for  bark -cloth.  It  grows  on  sandy  soil.  Its  bark  is  also 
used  for  bark-rope. 

Mtalawanda  is  used  for  bows  and  sticks.  The  bark  is  smooth,  and  the  leaves  are 
small.     It  grows  at  the  river. 

Tenza  is  used  for  bows  and  sticks.  It  grows  in  sandy  soil  near  streams.  It  is  not  of 
much  use.     In  appearance  it  is  very  similar  to  the  Mtalawanda  tree. 

Mtewelewe  grows  an  edible  fruit.     It  is  used  for  wall-posts  of  houses. 

Nkope  is  used  for  making  bows.  The  wood  is  hard,  the  leaves  are  large,  and  the  bark 
smooth.     It  grows  near  streams  in  clumps  of  trees. 

Nkulakula  is  used  in  making  Hds  of  covered  baskets.  The  wood  is  adzed  down  thin, 
and  bent  into  a  circular  form.     It  is  also  used  in  making  beer  cups. 

Nabukwi  is  used  for  mortars,  drums,  etc.     It  is  also  made  into  boards. 

Chinyenye  is  used  to  make  mallets  for  hammering  out  bark-cloth.  Europeans  may 
use  it  for  wooden  hammers.     It  grows  near  the  river. 

Mpawoni  is  a  large  tree  like  Mbawa.  It  grows  near  streams  on  the  banks  of  the 
Tuchila  and  Nkwakwasa.  In  appearance  it  is  like  the  Mbawa,  but  has  not  the  red 
colour. 

Mchiky  or  Kalisache^  grows  anywhere  even  as  a  parasite.  It  makes  very  strong  bark- 
cloth.    It  is  red  in  colour,  and  is  used  also  in  making  bark-cloth.    Its  fruit  is  called  Ngile, 

Chisije, — The  Chikunda  people  at  Michiru  take  chips  of  the  wood,  mix  the  water  in 
which  they  are  steeped  with  Likwanya  plant,  and  use  it  in  dyeing  cloth  of  a  black  colour. 
It  grows  anywhere  on  sandy  soil. 

1  ParkiafiHcoidea.-^.  H.  J.  ■»  Euphorbia  sp.— H.  H.  J. 

'  Apparently  these  are  two  diflferent  palms.  Mvumo  is  the  Borassus  flahellifcr^  and  Ng^valangwa 
HyphiPnes^.  inc. — H.  H.J. 


232  BRITISH   CENTRAL   AFRICA 

LuT^gwe  makes  a  medicine  for  sores.  Chips  are  taken  off,  placed  in  a  pot,  and  heated 
over  the  fire.     The  infusion  is  applied  to  the  sore  by  means  of  a  feather. 

Mkakomtela  makes  lip-rings,  and  is  carved  into  gun-stocks. 

Mkemgusa  (Mlanje  Cedar)  is  a  noteable  tree  in  British  Central  Africa.  It  is  used  in 
making  tables,  chairs,  etc.  It  is  easily  cut  and  planed,  and  has  a  sweet  smell.  It  also 
makes  good  walking-sticks. 

Nkolopochi — a  tree  which  grows  on  the  hills,  and  has  a  fruit  of  the  same  name,  which 
is  bright  red  when  ripe. 

Mchenjilema  is  a  tree  that  grows  on  hilly  ground.  It  is  a  tree  of  great  use.  It  is 
large  in  size,  and  grows  in  forest  clumps.  It  has  very  large  roots  that  grow  down  deep 
into  the  ground. 

Msilanyama — a  fruit  tree,  but  small.  People  take  the  bark  (or  husks)  and  pound  it 
in  a  mortar,  and  make  an  oil  used  in  smearing  their  bodies.  It  grows  on  sandy  soil. 
The  fruit  is  small  like  a  chitalaka  bead. 

Nkulukututu  grows  on  sandy  soil  or  near  a  stream.  The  fruit  is  very  edible.  The 
wood  is  used  for  making  wooden  spoons. 

Chipisawago^  like  the  chinyenye  tree,  is  used  for  making  wooden  mallets.  After 
adzing,  they  are  marked  with  a  hot  iron,  and  are  used  for  hammering  bark-cloth.  It  is 
an  exceedingly  hard  wood,  hence  its  name — chipisawago^  "the  blunter  of  the  axe" 
If  Europeans  make  mallets  of  this  tree  they  will  find  it  very  useful. 

Mpandabwalo  is  easily  cut  into  boards.  It  does  not  crack.  The  seeds  are  used  by 
women  for  lip-rings. 

Nakalima  grows  on  hilly  country,  and  makes  into  good  boards. 

Chandafu  grows  on  hilly  country ;  is  a  very  large  tree,  and  makes  good  boards.  The 
tree  is  dark  in  colour,  and  the  bark  is  very  rough. 

Nkangasa — a  canoe-tree  growing  at  the  river  or  on  the  hills.  It  is  found  here,  and 
makes  good  boards. 

Mchelechela  grows  near  streams  or  in  clumps  of  forest  trees.  It  is  a  very  large  tree, 
and  is  used  in  making,  spoons,  mortars,  and  canoes. 

Nkalala  grows  in  forest  clumps.     It  is  used  in  canoe-making. 

Mchenga  is  used  in  making  handles  for  hoes  and  axes.  The  leaves  are  small,  and  the 
bark  is  rough. 


BOTANICAL   APPENDICES  233 


APPENDIX    11. 

LIST  OF  THE  KNOWN   PLANTS  OCCURRING  IN 
BRITISH   CENTRAL  AFRICA, 

NYASALAND,   AND  THE   BRITISH  TERRITORY  NORTH   OF 

THE  ZAMBEZI 

COMPILED,    BY   PERMISSION    OF   THE    DIRECTOR,    FROM    MATERIALS    IN   THE 
HERBARIUM    OF   THE    ROYAL    GARDENS,    KEW 

By  I.   H.   BURKILL,   M.A. 

The  following  list,  compiled  for  the  most  part  from  the  plants  and  manuscript  records 
in  the  Herbarium  of  the  Royal  Gardens,  Kew,  must  be  regarded  as  provisional.  The 
knowledge  of  the  flora  of  the  British  territory  north  of  the  Zambezi  has  been  so  rapidly 
extended  during  recent  years,  and  is  yet  so  imperfectly  known,  that  any  account 
approaching  completeness  is  at  present  impossible.  Little  has  been  published  hitherto, 
and  the  facts  now  collected  together  will  serve  to  bring  into  one  view  nearly  all  we 
know  of  the  Botany  of  British  Central  Africa. 

The  first  collections  were  made  by  two  members  of  the  Livingstone  Expedition 
in  the  years  1861,  1862.  Dr.  (afterwards  Sir)  John  Kirk  and  Mr.  J.  C.  Meller,  while 
exploring  the  course  of  the  Shire  River  and  wandering  in  the  Maiianja  hills,  made 
considerable  collections,  which  were  transmitted  to  Kew,  some  of  them  in  time 
for  description  in  the  Flora  of  Tropical  Africa,  Subsequently  Dr.  Kirk  journeyed 
up  the  Zambezi  into  the  Batoka  country,  from  the  highlands  of  which  and  from  the 
r^on  of  the  Victoria  Falls  other  plants  were  sent  home.  The  new  species 
gathered  by  him  were  described  in  a  variety  of  different  publications.  In  the 
following  years  Mr.  Horace  Waller,  residing  in  the  Maiianja  hills,  continued  to 
transmit  plants  to  Dr.  Kirk,  who  was  at  that  time  H.M.'s  Consul  in  Zanzibar.  After 
this  comes  a  gap  of  some  years  in  which  nothing  was  added  to  our  knowledge, 
until  Dr.  Emil  Holub,  in  1879,  returned  from  a  journey  during  which  he  had  made 
considerable  collections.  Of  these,  a  few  of  the  plants  had  been  gathered  about 
Sesheke,  almost  the  most  northern  point  which  he  reached,  and  within  the  territory 
under  consideration.  At  the  same  time  (1878)  Major  Serpa  Pinto  made,  in  his 
journey  across  the  continent,  a  small  collection  on  the  table-land  over  the  river 
Ninda,  and  the  plants  of  this  were,  in  1881,  described  in  the  Transactions  of  the 
Linncsan  Society,  Again  in  this  year,  1878,  the  late  Mr.  John  Buchanan  sent  to  Kew 
his  first  collection  of  Nyasaland  plants,  and  Mr.  L.  Scott  travelled  collecting  through 
the  Shire  Highlands  to  the  head  of  Lake  Nyasa. 

From  this  date  our  knowledge  has  steadily  grown.  Under  the  influence  and  with 
the  help  of  Sir  Harry  Johnston,  the  region  of  the  Shire  Highlands  has  been 
energetically  explored.  The  frequent  mention  below  of  the  names  of  J.  Buchanan, 
G.  F.  Scott- Elliot,  J.  McClounie,  J.  Last,  A.  Whyte,  and  K.  C.  Cameron  shows  how 
much  has  been  done  in  this  region.     Further  north,  in   1879,  Mr.  Joseph  Thomson 


234  BRITISH   CENTRAL   AFRICA 

had  gathered  plants  on  the  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  and  these  reached  Kew  in 
1880.  Messrs.  Carson,  Nutt,  Scott-Elliot  and  Sir  Harry  Johnston  have  also  collected 
on  the  plateau,  and  the  first-named  on  a  journey  along  the  Kalungwizi  River  to 
Lake  Mweru. 

The  collection  made  at  Boroma,  on  the  north  of  the  Zambezi,  by  the  Rev. 
L.  Menyharth,  is  only  in  part  known. 

As  a  guide  to  the  distribution,  the  region  has  been  divided  into  four  sections,  as 
follows : — 

1.  Shire  Highlands. 

2.  Nyasa-Tanganyika   plateau;    some   of    the   plants   probably   collected     on 

the  German  side  of  the  boundary  line. 

3.  Extreme  west,  where  Major  Serpa  Pinto  alone  has  collected. 

4.  Upper  Zambezi. 

It  must  be  understood  that  all  the  plants  collected  by  Buchanan  were  obtained 
in  the  Shire  Highlands;  all  by  Carson  and  Nutt,  unless  otherwise  stated,  from  the 
region  near  the  south  end  of  Lake  Tanganyika;  all  from  Serpa  Pinto  from  the  one 
plateau  near  the  river  Ninda ;  and  all  from  Menyharth  from  Boroma.  It  was  not 
thought  necessary  to  repeat  these  localities  with  the  collectors'  names. 

PHANEROGAMS. 
Ranunculaceae. 

Clematis  Kirkii^  Oliv.     (1)  Mafianja  hills,  Kirk  ;  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Carson  ;  Nutt. 

C.  gratuy  Oliv.     (i)  Buchanan. 

C  simensis^  Fresen.     (i)  Chiradzulu,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan. 

C.  Thunbergiiy  Steud.    (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 

Clematis  sp.     (2)  Carson. 

Thalictrum  rhynchocarpum^  Dill,  et  Rich,    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan. 

T,  longipedunculatum^  Harv.  ct  Sond.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Anemone  why teana^  Baker  fiL     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan. 

Ranunculus  pinnatusy  Poir.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Ranunculus  sp.     (2)  Carson. 

Delphinium  dasycaulon^  Fresen.     (2)  Nutt. 

Anonaceae. 

Anona   senegalensis,    Pers.      (i)   Shire   Valley,   Kirk;    (2)    Nyasa-Tanganyika   plateau, 

Scott-Elliot. 
Anona  sp.     (2)  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  Scott- Elliot. 
Uvaria  spp.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  (4)  Menyharth. 
Xylopia  sp.  ?    (i)  Buchanan. 
l/nona  spp,     (i)  Buchanan. 
Monodora  stenopetala^  Oliv.    (i)  Rapids  of  Shire  River  and  west  of  Lake  Nyasa,  Kirk. 

Menispermaceae. 

Jateorhiza  Columba,  Miers.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Tiliacora  i^)  funifera^  Oliv.     (i)  Mafianja  hills,  Meller  ;  (4)  Victoria  Falls,  Kirk. 
Tiliacora  sp.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Cocculus  villosusy  DC.     (i)  Rapids  of  Shire  River,  Kirk. 
Cissampelos  Pareira^  L.     (i)  Buchanan;  Shire  Highlands  and  Lake  Nyasa,  Scott-Elliot; 

Zomba,  Whyte. 
C.  nephrophylla^  Bojer.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Stephania  abyssinica^  Rich.  (?)    (i)  Buchanan. 


BOTANICAL   APPENDICES 


235 


Nymphaeaceae. 

Nymphaea  stellata,  Willd.    (i)  Lake  Nyasa  and  Shire  River,  Kirk;  Buchanan;  (2)  Carson. 

CRUCI  FERAE. 

Nasturtium  indicum^  L.     (4)  Menyharth. 

Brassica  juncea^  DC.     (i)  Murchison  Falls,  Shire  River,  Meller ;  Buchanan. 

Capparidaceae. 

Cleome  monophylla^  L.     (i)  Zomba  and  Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan. 

C.  chilocalyxy  Oliv.    (i)  Shire  River,  Meller. 

C.  hirta,  Oliv.      (i)  Maravi  country.  Kirk;  (2)  Carson;  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake 

Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
C  ciliata.  Sebum,  et  Thonn.    (2)  Carson. 
Cleome  sp.    (i)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Carson  ;  Nutt. 

Gynandropsis pentaphylla^  DC.    (i)  Buchanan  ;  Shire  River,  Meller. 
Thylacium  a/ricanum,  Lour,    (i)  Shire  River,  Kirk ;  Buchanan. 
Maerua  nervosa^  Oliv.    (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
Maerua  sp.     (i)  Zomba,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan. 
Boscia  salicifolia^  Oliv.     (i)  Shire  River,  Kirk. 

B,  Carsoni,  Baker.    (2)  Mweru,  Carson. 

Capparis  rosea^  L.    (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot;  by  Lake  Nyasa  and  Upper  Shire, 
Kirk. 

C,  tomentosa,  Lam.    (i)  Buchanan. 

C.  Kirkii,  Oliv.    (i)  By  Lake  Nyasa  and  Upper  Shire,  Kirk. 
Capparis  sp.     ( i )  Buchanan . 
Ritchiea  sp.    (2)  Carson. 

Resedaceae. 

Caylusea  abyssinica^  Fisch.  et  Mey.    (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 

Violaceae. 

lonidium  enneaspermum^  Vent,    (i)  Blantyre,  Last ;  (4)  Menyharth. 

/.  nyassense,  Engl.     (1)  Buchanan. 

Viola  abyssinica,  Steud.    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

Moringeae. 

Mofinga pterygosperma^  DC.    (i)  Lake  Nyasa  and  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot. 

Bixineae. 

Oncoba  spinosa^  Forsk.    (i)  Shire  River,  Kirk  ;  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot ;  Buchanan. 

O.  lasiocalyxy  Oliv.    (i)  Lake  Chilwa,  Kirk. 

O. peter siana^  Oliv.    (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot. 

Flacourtia  Ramon tchi,  L'H^rit.    (i)  Buchanan. 

Aphloia    theaeformis,    Benn.      (i)    Mlanje,    McClounie   and  Whyte;    Zomba,  Whyte; 

Buchanan. 
Kiggelaria  grandifoliay  Warb.    (i)  Buchanan. 

PiTTOSPORACEAE. 

Pittosporum  sp.    (i)  Zomba,  Whyte. 

POLYGALACEAE. 

Poly  gala  gomesiana,  Welw.      (i)  Lake  Nyasa,  Kirk;   Zomba,  Whyte;   Blantyre,  Last; 

(2)  Nutt ;  lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
P.  amboinensisy  Giirke.     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot. 


236 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


POLYGALACEAE. 

PolygaJa  UnuicauliSy  Hook.  fil.    (2)  Carson. 

P.  rarifolia,  DC.    (2)  Nutt 

P.  triflorOf  L.    (i)  Buchanan. 

P,  pofygonifolta,  Chodat    (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot. 

P,  briiteniafia,  Chodat.    (2)  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  Scott-Elliot. 

P,  ^persicariaefolia^  DC.    (i)  Blantyrc,  Last ;  Zomba  and  Mlanje,  Whyte ;   Buchanan  ; 

Mananja  hills,  Kirk  and  Waller. 
P.petitiana^  Rich,     (i)  Blantyre,  Last ;  Buchanan  ;  Mananja  hills,  Waller. 
P,  virgata^  Thunb.    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte  and  McClounie;  Buchanan. 
P,  krumaninay  Burchell.    (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 
P»  micranthay  G.  et  P.    (2)  Carson. 
Poly  gala  spp.    (i)  Buchanan ;  Blantyre,  Last 
Securidaca    longepedunculatay    Fresen.      (i)    Mananja   hills,    Meller;    Zomba,   Whyte; 

Buchanan. 
Securidaca  sp.    (i)  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  Scott-Elliot. 
Muraltia  mixta,  L.    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte  and  McClounie ;  Zomba,  Whyte. 

Caryophyllaceae. 

Dianthus  Serpaey  Ficalho  et  Hiem.    (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 

Silene  Burchelliiy  Otth.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte  and  McClounie;   Shire  Highlands,  Scott- 
Elliot  ;  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Upper  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  J.  Thomson. 
Silene  sp.    (i)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  J.  Thomson. 
Cer ostium  africanumy  Oliv.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 
Cerastium  sp.     (2)  Lower  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  J.  Thomson. 
Stellaria  media,  Cyr.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 
DryTnaria  cordata,  Willd.     (i)  Chiradzulu,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan. 
Polycarpaea  corymbosay  L.     (4)  Menyharth  ;  var.  ejffusay  Oliv.    (i)  Buchanan. 
Polycarpaea  sp.     (4)  Menyharth. 

PORTULACEAE. 

Portulaca  quadrifida,  L.     (i)  Buchanan ;  (2)  Mweru,  Carson. 

Hypericineae. 

Hypericum peplidifoliumy  Rich,  (i)  Mlanje  and  Zomba,  Whyte;  Shire  Highlands,  Scott- 
Elliot  ;  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Nutt. 

H.  lanceolatumy  Lam.  (i)  Buchanan;  Mananja  hills,  Meller;  Blantyre,  Last;  Mlanje 
and  Zomba,  Whyte. 

H.  quartinianumy  Rich,     (i)  Upper  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 

Hypericum  sp.     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-EUiot. 

Psorospermum  febrifugumy  Spach.  (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller  and  Kirk ;  Zomba,  Whyte ; 
Buchanan  ;  (2)  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  Scott-Elliot  and  J.  Thomson. 

Psorospermum  sp.     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot. 

Haronga  madagascariensisy  Choisy.     (i)  Zomba,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan. 

Guttiferae. 

Garcinia  Buchananiy  Baker,    (i)  Buchanan. 

D I PTERO  C  ARPEAE. 

Vatica  africanay  Welw.,  \zx,  glotneratUy  Oliv.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  (4)  Batoka  country,  Kirk. 


BOTANICAL   APPENDICES  237 

Malvaceae. 

Sida  humilis^  Cav.    (i)  Lake  Nyasa,  Kirk. 

S.  rhombifolia^  L.    (i)  Buchanan. 

5.  spinosa,  L.    (i)  Buchanan. 

S.  cordifolia^  L.    (i)  Lower  Shire  Valley,  Meller ;  Buchanan. 

Sida  sp.     (4)  Menyharth  ;  Holub. 

Abutilon  angulatum^  Mast    (i)  Katunga,  Meller  ;  Chiradzulu,  Whyte ;  Buchanan. 

A,  sanzibaricuntj  Bojer.    (i)  Buchanan. 

A.  longicuspe^  Hochst.     (i)  Chiradzulu,  Meller. 

A,  indicum,  Don.    (i)  Mafianja  hills,  Meller  ;  Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  (4)  Sesheke,  Kirk. 

A.  graveolens,  W.  et  A.    (i)  Buchanan. 

Abutilon  sp.    (i)  Chiradzulu,  Whyte. 

Urena  lobata,  L.    (2)  Carson. 

Pavonia  Meyeri^  Mast,    (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller  ;  Buchanan. 

P,  schimperiana,  Hochst  (i)  Buchanan;  Chiradzulu,  Meller  and  Whyte;  (2)  Lower 
plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 

P,  urens,  Cav.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Pavonia  spp.     (i)  Chiradzulu,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Carson. 

Kosteletzkya  adoensis^  Hochst     (i)  Buchanan. 

Hibiscus  viti/olius,  L.    (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-EUiot ;  Buchanan. 

H.  diversi/olius,  Jacq.    (i)  Maiianja  hills,  Meller ;  Lower  Shire  Valley,  Kirk ;  Buchanan. 

H,  surattensis^  L.     (i)  Buchanan.  • 

H,  Sabdariffuy  L.    (i)  Lower  Shire  Valley,  Kirk. 

H.  cannabinusy  L.    (i)  Zomba,  Whyte  ;  Chiradzulu,  Meller. 

H.  frossypinus,  Thunb.  (i)  Mananja  hills.  Kirk  and  Meller ;  Chiradzulu,  Whyte ; 
Buchanan  ;  (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 

H.  micranthus,  L.  (i)  Katunga,  Meller ;  Buchanan ;  (2)  Carson ;  Nyasa-Tanganyika 
plateau,  Scott-Elliot 

H.  Solandra.  UH^rit     (i)  Shire  River,  Kirk. 

H.  physaloides,  G.  et  P.    (i)  Zomba  and  Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  (2)  Carson. 

Hibiscus  spp.  (1)  Buchanan  ;  Shire  Highlands,  K.  C.  Cameron ;  (2)  Carson  ;  Nyasa- 
Tanganyika  plateau,  J.  Thomson ;  (4)  Holub. 

Gossypium  barbadense^  L.     (i)  Lake  Nyasa,  Kirk. 

Adansonia  digitata^  L.     (i)  Lake  Chilwa,  McClounie. 

Sterculiaceae. 

Sterculia  melissi/olia,  Benth.     (2)  Carson. 

S.  iriphaca^  R.  Br.    (i)  Buchanan. 

Sterculia  sp.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Carson. 

Dombeya  multijlora^  Planch,    (i).  Mananja  hills,  Meller  ;  Buchanan  ;  Zomba,  Whyte. 

D.  spectabilis^  Bojer.     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller  ;  Buchanan. 

D.  Kirkiiy  Mast     (i)  Katunga,  Meller. 

D.  Burgessiae,  Genr.     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller;   Blantyre,  Last;   Chiradzulu,  Whyte; 

Buchanan ;  (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
Dombeya  sp.    (2)  Carson  ;  Upper  and  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  Thomson. 
Melhania  Porbesiiy  Planch,     (i)  Buchanan. 
M,  acuminata^  Mast     (1)  Buchanan. 
Walthcria  ainericana^  L.     ( i )  Buchanan. 

Melochia  corchorifolia.  L.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Shire  Valley,  Kirk. 
Hermannia  inamoena^  K.  Schum.     (i)  Buchanan. 
H,  Kirkiiy  Mast     (1)  Buchanan. 


238 


BRITISH    CENTRAL    AFRICA 


TiLIACEAE 

Grewia  asiatica,  L.    (i)  Buchanan. 

G,  inaequilatera^  Garcke.     (i)  Lower  Shire,  Kirk  and  Meller. 

Grewia  spp.    (i)  Buchanan  ;  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot. 

Triumfetta  rhomboidea^  Jacq.    (i)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Carson. 

T.  Welwitschiiy  Mast,    (i)  Near  Lake  Nyasa,  Kirk ;  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Carson. 

T,  AfasUrstij  Baker  fil.    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan. 

T.  Sonderiiy  Ficalho  et  Hiern.    (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 

T.pilosuy  Roth,    (i)  Chiradzulu,  Whyte. 

T.  trichocarpa,  Hochst     (i)  Buchanan. 

T.  tomentosay  Bojer.    (i)  Buchanan. 

Triumfetta  spp.      (f)  Buchanan ;   Blantyre,  Last ;  (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Nyasa, 

J.  Thomson ;   Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  Scott-Elliot ;  (4)  Menyharth. 
Spamiannia  abyssinica^  E.  Mey.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Mlanje,  McClounie  ;  (2)  Lower  plateau, 

north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
S.  palmata^  E.  Mey.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Cor  chorus  tridens^  L.     (i)  Blantyre,  Last. 
C.  olitorius^  L,    (i)  Buchanan. 
.  Ceratosepalum  digitatunty  Oliv.    (2)  Carson. 

LiNEAE. 

Rry thro xy Ion  emargituitu m,  Schum  et  Thonn.    (i)    Buchanan;  Shire  Highlands,  Scott- 
EUiot. 

Malpighiaceae. 

Acridocarpus  chloropterus^  Oliv.    (i)  Shire  Valley,  Meller  and  Kirk. 
Acridocarpus  s^,    (i)  Buchanan. 
Triaspis  sp.     ( i )  Buchanan . 

Zygophylleae. 

Tribulus  terrestris,  L.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Geraniaceae. 

Geranium  aculeolatum^  Oliv.     (i)  Buchanan. 

G,  simense^  Hochst.     (i)  Zomba,  Kirk;  Mlanje,  Whyte;   (2)   Lower  plateau,  north  of 

Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
G.  favosum^  Hochst.    (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
Geranium  spp.     (i)  Zomba,  Cunningham  ;  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake 

Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
Pelargonium  sp.     (2)  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  J.  Thomson  and  Scott- Elliot ;  Carson. 
Oxaiis  semiloba^  Sond.     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Kirk  ;  Blantyre,  Last. 
O,  oUgotricha^  Baker.     (2)  Carson. 

O.  sensitiva^  L.    (i)  Buchanan  ;  Zomba,  Whyte  ;  Blantyre,  Last. 
O.  trichophyllay  Baker.     (2)  Carson. 
O,  corniculatay  L.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Nutt. 

Oxaiis  spp.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Shire  Highlands,  Scott- Elliot ;  (2)  Nutt. 
Impatiens  capensis,  Thunb.     (i)  Chiradzulu  and  Mananja  hills,  Meller. 
/.  Kirkiiy  Hook.  fil.     (i)  Western  side  of  Lake  Nyasa,  Kirk. 
/.  assurgensy  Baker.     (2)  Nutt ;  Carson. 
/.  shirensisy  Baker  fil.    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte  and  McClounie. 
/.  ^omphophylla^  Baker.     (4)  Carson. 
/.  micrantha^  Hochst.  (?)     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 
Impatiens  spp.    (i)  Buchanan  ;  Blantyre,  Last ;  (2)  Carson. 


BOTANICAL   APPENDICES  239 

RUTACEAE. 

Toddalia  aculeatay  Pers.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Toddalia  spp.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Clausena  inaequalis^  Benth.    (i)  Mlanje  and  Zomba,  Whyte. 

Citrus  Aurantiuniy  L.     (i)  Buchanan. 

SlMARUBEAE. 

Brucea  sp.  (?)     (4)  Menyharth. 

Kirkia  acuminata^  Oliv.    (i)  Buchanan. 

OCHNACEAE. 

Ochna  leptoclada^  Oliv.     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller  ;  Maravi  country,  Kirk  ;  Buchanan. 
O.  macrocalyxy  Oliv.    (i)  Sochi,  Kirk;  Mananja  hills,  Meller;  Zomba,  Whyte;  Mlanje, 

McClounie;  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot. 
O.floribunday  Baker.     (2)  Mweru,  Carson. 
Ochna  spp.    (i)  Buchanan ;  (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson;  Carson 

BURSERACEAE. 

Canarium  sp.    (i)  Lake  Nyasa,  Scott- Elliot. 

Commiphora  pilosa^  EngL     (4)  Menyharth. 

C  mozambicensisy  Engl,    (i)  Lower  Shire  River,  Kirk. 

Commiphora  spp.     (4)  Menyharth  ;  Boroma  and  Batoka  country,  Kirk. 

Meliaceae. 

Turraea  nilotica^  Kotschy.    (i)  Shire  River,  Kirk. 

T,  capiiata^  Klotzsch.     (i)  Chiradzulu,  Whyte. 

Turraea  sp.    (i)  Chiradzulu,  Whyte  ;  (4)  Menyharth. 

Trichilia  emetica,  Vahl.    (i)  Shire  River,  Kirk ;  Buchanan  ;  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot. 

T,  capitata,  Klotzsch.     (i)  Shire  River,  Kirk ;  Chiradzulu,  Whyte  ;  (4)  Menyharth. 

T,  Buchananiy  C.  DC.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Chiradzulu,  Whyte. 

Trichilia  spp.     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot. 

Khaya  senegalensis,  A.  Juss.  (?)    (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller ;  Buchanan. 

Ekebergia  Buchananiiy  Harms,    (i)  Buchanan. 

Olacineae. 

Olax  dissitiflora^  Oliv.    (i)  Lake  Nyasa,  Kirk  ;  (4)  Menyharth. 
Olax  sp.    (i)  Buchanan ;  (2)  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  Scott-Elliot. 
Ximenia  a?nericana,  L.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Apodytes  dimidiata^  E.  Mey.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Chlamydocarya  sp.     (4)  Menyharth. 

Ilicineae. 

Ilex capensisy  Sond.  et  Harv.     (i)  Mlanje,  McClounie ;  Buchanan. 

Celastraceae. 

Celastrus  laurifolius,  Rich,     (i)  Lake  Nyasa,  Kirk. 

C.  senegalensisy  Lam.    (i)  Chiradzulu,  Whyte;  Buchanan;  (2)?  Lower  plateau,  north  of 

La3ce  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
C  serratusy  Hochst.     (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
Gymnosporia  laurinay  Szyszyl.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 
G,  undata,  Szyszyl.     (i)  Buchanan. 
G.  buxifolia,  Szyszyl.,  var.  venenata^  Sand,     (i)  Buchanan. 


240  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

Celastraceae. 

Gymnosporia  sp.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Cassine  Buchananiiy  Loesn.    (i)  Buchanan. 

C.  aethiopica^  Thunb.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Hippocratea  obtusifolia^  Roxb.    (4)  Menyharth. 

Hippocratea  Buchananiiy  Loesn.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Hippocratea  sp.     (4)  Menyharth. 

Salacia  spp.    (i)  Buchanan. 

Pleurostylia  Wightii^  Wight  et  Arnott.    (i)  Buchanan. 

Rhamneae. 

Zizyphus  Jujuba,  Lam.    (i)  Buchanan  ;  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot. 

Z.  mucronata^  Willd.    (i)  Shire  River,  Kirk  and  Meller. 

Gouania  sp.     (i)  Chiradzulu,  Whyte. 

Helinus  ovatus,  E.  Mey.    (i)  Lower  valley  of  the  Shire  River,  Meller ;  Buchanan. 

Phylica  spicata,  L.  ?    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

Ampelideae. 

Vitis  eryihrodesy  Fresen.    (i)  Buchanan. 

V,  congesta^  Baker,    (i)  Katunga,  Meller. 

V,  abyssinicay  Hochst.    (i)  Buchanan. 

V.  rubiginosa,  Wclw.    (i)  Buchanan. 

K  serpens ,  Baker,    (i)  Zomba,  Whyte. 

V,  griseaj  Baker,    (i)  Shire  River,  Kirk. 

V,  jatrophoides,  Welw.    (i)  Mbami,  near  Blantyre,  Kirk  ;  Buchanan. 

V.  integrifolia^  Bakjer.    (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot ;  (4)  Menyharth. 

K  subciliata.  Baker,    (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot ;  Katunga,  L.  Scott 

K  ibuensis,  Baker,    (i)  Buchanan. 

Vitis    spp.      (i)    Buchanan;    Shire    Highlands,   Scott-Elliot;    Mananja   hills,   Meller; 

(2)  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  J.  Thomson. 
Cissus  aristolochiae/olia,  Planch,     (i)  Buchanan. 
C.  subgiaucescensy  Planch,    (i)  Buchanan. 
C  kirkiana.  Planch.,  van  Uvingstoniiy  Planch,    (i)  Buchanan. 
C,  Buchananiiy  Planch,    (i)  Buchanan  ;  (4)  Menyharth. 
C.  cucumerifoliay  Planch.     ( i )  Katunga,  Kirk. 
C.  crotalarioides,  Planch,     (i)  Buchanan. 
Leea  sp.    (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot 

Sapindaceae. 

Cardiosperttium  microcarpum,  H.  B.  K.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Paullinia pinnatay  L.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Zomba,  Whyte. 

Paullinia  sp.    (i)  Mlanje,  McClounie. 

Schmidefia  repanda.  Baker,     (i)  Shire  River,  Kirk. 

S.  africanOy  DC.     (1)  Buchanan. 

Schmidelia  spp.    (1)  Buchanan. 

Cupania  spp.    (i)  Buchanan  ;  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-EUiot 

Blighia  sambesiacay  Baker,     (i)  Lake  Nyasa,  Kirk. 

Lecaniodiscus  fraxinifoliay  Baker,     (i)  Shire  River,  Kirk  ;  (4)  Menyharth. 

Sapindus  xanihocarpus^  Kl.    (i)  Buchanan  ;  Shire  River  to  Lake  Nyasa,  Kirk. 

Dodonaea  viscosa,  L.    (i)  Buchanan;  Zomba,  Whyte;  (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake 

Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
Bersama  sp.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Zomba,  Whyte  ;  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-EUiot. 


BOTANICAL   APPENDICES  241 

Anacardiaceae. 

Rhus  viminalis^  Vahl.     (4)  Batoka  country,  Kirk. 

R.   vzilosa,   Linn.  fil.      (1)   Mananja  hills,    Meller ;    Buchanan ;    Zomba,   Whyte  ;    var. 

grandifolia^  Oliv.  (i)  Mbami,  near  Blantyre,  Kirk. 
R,  Kirkii,  Oliv.    (4)  Victoria  Falls,  Kirk. 
R.  pulcherrima^OXxw,    (i)  Buchanan. 

R,  glaucescens.  Rich,     (i)  Lake  Nyasa,  Scott-Elliot ;  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Lower  plateau,  north 

of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
R.  mucronifolia^  Sond.     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-EUiot. 
R,  insignis^  Del.     ( i )  Zomba,  Whyte. 
R.  retinorrhoeay  Steud.     (4)  Batoka  country,  Kirk. 
Rhus  sp.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Spondias  sp.     (1)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-EUiot ;  (4)  Menyharth. 
ScUrocarya  caffra^  Sond.     (i)  Lake  Nyasa,  Kirk. 

CONNARACEAE. 

Rourea  ovali/oim^  Gilg.     (i)  Mlanje,  McClounie. 

Leguminosae. 

Crotalaria  anthyllopsis,  Welw.     (i)  Buchanan. 

C  laxiflora^  Baker.     (2)  Carson. 

C.  glauca^  Willd.     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Kirk. 

C.  Vogelii^  Bcnth.     (i)  Buchanan. 

C.  cephaloiesy  Steud.    (i)  Buchanan  ;  Blantyre,  Last. 

C.  loti/olia,  L.     (i)  Buchanan. 

C.  cUomifoliay  Welw.     (i)  Buchanan. 

C.  erisemoides,  Ficalho  et  Hiem.     (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 

C.  lanceolata^  E.  Mey.     (i)  Buchanan. 

C.  intermedia^  Kotschy.     (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 

C.  natalitia^  Meisn.     (i)  Zomba,  Whyte. 

C  hyssopifolia^  Kl.     (1)  Buchanan. 

C  recta^  Steud.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte;  Buchanan  ;  Mafianja  hills,  Waller  ;  (2)  Carson. 

C.  spinosa,  Hochst.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Crotalaria  spp.    (i)  Buchanan  ;  Blantyre,  Last ;  Chiradzulu,  Whyte  ;  (2)  Nutt ;  Carson. 

Argyrolobium  shirense,  Taub.     (1)  Buchanan. 

Adenocarpus  Mannii^  Hook.  fil.    (i)  Mlanje  and  Zomba,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan. 

Parochetus  comfttunis^  Hamilt.     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller. 

Medicago  lupulinay  L.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Lotus  arabicus^  L.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

L,  tigrensis.  Baker,    (i)  Buchanan. 

Lotus  sp.     (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 

Psoralea  sp.     (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 

Indigofera  vicioides^  Jaub.  et  Spach.     (4)  Batoka  country,  Kirk. 

/.  trachyphylla^  Benth.     (i)  Buchanan. 

I.  polysphaera^  Baker.     (2)  Carson. 

/.  Lyaliii,  Baker,     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

/.  heterotricha,  DC.     (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 

/.  dodecaphylla,  Ficalho  et  Hiern.     (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 

/.  secundifioray  Poir.     (i)  Upper  Shire  Valley,  Scott-EUiot;  (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of 

Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson  ;  Carson. 
/.  spiendens^  Ficalho  et  Hiern.     (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 

16 


242  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

Leguminosae. 

Indigo f era  multijuga.  Baker,     (i)  Buchanan. 

/.  demissa^  Taub.    (i)  Buchanan. 

/.  iinctoria^  L.    (i)  Buchanan. 

/.  hirsuta^  L.     (i)  Buchanan. 

/.  torulosay  Baker,    (i)  Buchanan. 

/.  emarginella^  Steud.     (i)  Buchanan. 

/.  arrecta^  Hochst.     (2)  Karonga,  L.  Scott. 

/.  endecaphylla,  Baker,     (i)  Zomba,  Meller. 

I.procera,  S.  et  T.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Indigo/eras^^,    (1)  Buchanan;  Blantyre,  Last;  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot;  (2)  Nyasa- 

Tanganyika  plateau,  J.  Thomson  and  Scott-EUiot ;  Nutt ;  Carson. 
Tephrosia  sericea.  Baker,     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Waller ;  Zomba,  Whyte. 
T.  Vogelii,  Hook.  fil.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Nutt. 
T.  iongipesy  Meisn.    (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 
T.  purpurea,  Pers.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 
T.  linearis,  Pers.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 
T.  whyteana.  Baker  fil.    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 
T.  Nyasae,  Baker  fil.     (i)  Buchanan. 
71  lupini folia,  DC.     (i)  Buchanan. 
T.  dichroocarpa,  Steud.     ( 1 )  Buchanan. 
T.  schizocalyxy  Taub.     (i)  Buchanan.  ^ 

7".  sambesiaca,  Taub.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Tephrosia  spp.      (i)   Buchanan;   (2)  Carson;    Upper  plateau,   north  of  Lake   Nyasa, 

J.  Thomson. 
Mundulea  suberosa,  Benth.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Sesbania  sp.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Astragalus  abyssinicus,  Steud.    (i)  Buchanan. 
Ormocarpum  mimosoides,  S.  Moore,     (i)  Buchanan. 
Hertniniera  elaphroxylon,  Guill.  et  Perr.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Aeschynomene  aspera,  L.     (i)  Elephant  Marsh  on  Shire  River,  Kirk. 
A.  shirensis,  Taub.     (i)  Buchanan. 
A.  indica,  L.     (i)  Buchanan. 
A,  Schimperi,  Hochst.     (i)  Buchanan. 
A.  siifolia,  Welw.     (i)  Zomba  and  Mlanje,  Whyte. 
A.  gliiiinosa,  Taub.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Aeschynomene  spp.    (1)  Buchanan  ;  Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  Blantyre,  Last ;  Chiradzulu,  Whyte ; 

(2)  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  Scott-EUiot ;  Carson. 
Sinithia  nodulosa.  Baker,     (i)  Chiradzulu,  Meller. 
S.  strobilantha,  Welw.    (4)  Batoka  country,  Kirk. 

S.  strigosa,  Benth.     (1)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  Scott-EUiot. 
5.  scaberrima,  Taub.    (i)  Buchanan. 
.S".  sensitiva,  XiX.     (i)  Buchanan. 
S.  Carsoniy  Baker,     (i)  Carson. 
Smithia  spp.     (i)  Zomba,  Whyte;  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa, 

J.  Thomson  ;  Carson. 
Geissaspis    humuloidcs,   Hiern.      (2)    Nyasa-Tanganyika    plateau,    Scott-EUiot ;    Lower 

plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
Arachis  hypogaea,  L.     (2)  Nutt. 

Desmodium  dimorphum,  Welw.     (1)  Mananja  hills,  Kirk;  Buchanan. 
D.  Scalpe,  DC.     (i)  Buchanan. 
D.  barbatum,  Benth.     (i)  Buchanan. 


BOTANICAL   APPENDTUES  243 


Leguminosae. 

Desmodium  lasiocarpum,  DC.     (i)  Buchanan. 

D,  gangeticum,  DC.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Mananja  hills,  Meller. 

D,  hirtum^  Guill.  ct  Pcrr.    (1)  Buchanan  ;  Zomba,  Whyte. 

D.  ascendens,  DC.    (I)  Zomba,  Whyte. 

D.  latifolium,  DC.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Mananja  hills,  Waller. 

D.  tanganyikenscy  Baker.    (2)  Carson. 

D.  paleaceum^  Guill.  et  Perr.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Desmodium  spp.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Carson  ;  Nutt. 

Pseudarthria  Hookeri^  W.  et  A.     (2)  Nutt. 

Pseudarihria  sp.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Carson. 

Alysicarpus  rugosuSy  DC.    (i)  Buchanan  ;  Shire  Highlands  and  Lake  Nyasa,  Scott-Elliot. 

Alysicarpus  sp.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Lathyrus  s^,    (i)  Buchanan. 

Abrus  precatorius,  L.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Clitorea  ternatea^  H.  B.  K.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Dumasiaviilosa,V>Q,     (i)  Buchanan. 

Glycine  javanica^  L.    (1)  Lower  Shire  Valley,  Meller  ;  Chiradzulu,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan. 

Glycine  sp.    (2)  Carson. 

Teramnus  sp.    (i)  Buchanan. 

Erythrina  tomentosa,  Benth.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Mananja  hills,  Meller. 

£.  Humeiy  E.  Mey.     (i)  Mafianja  hills,  Meller  ;  Shire  River,  Kirk. 

Erythrina  sp.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Mucuna  coriacea,  Baker,    (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller ;  Mlanje  and  Chiradzulu,  Whyte. 

M.  ereclay  Baker.     (2)  Carson. 

Mucuna  sp.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Carson. 

Canavalia  oblusifoliUy  DC.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan. 

C.  ensiformis,  DC.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Phaseolus  lunatus,  L.     (i)  Lake  Nyasa,  Kirk. 

P,  Kirkii,  Baker,     (i)  West  shore  of  Lake  Nyasa,  Kirk. 

Phaseolus  sp^.     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot ;  Buchanan. 

Vigna  vexillaia^  Benth.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Zomba  and  Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  (2)  Carson  ;  Nutt. 

V.  luteola,  Benth.     (i)  Zomba  and  Mlanje,  Whyte ;  Fort  Johnston,  Scott-Elliot. 

V.  Catjang,  Walp.     (i)  Buchanan. 

I  'igna  sp.     ( I )  Buchanan. 

Foandzeia  sublerranea^  Thouars.     (2)  Nutt. 

Psophocarpus  longepedunculaius,  Hassk.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Dolichos  biJloruSy  L.     (2)  Carson. 

D.  ereclusy  Baker  fil.     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot ;  Zomba  and  Mlanje,  Whyte. 
D.  platypus y  Baker.     (2)  Mweru,  Carson. 

/>.  axillaris,  E.  Mey.     (i)  Mbami,  L.  Scott. 

D.pteropusy  Baker.     (2)  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  Scott-Elliot;  Carson. 

D.  simplicifoliuSy  Hook.  fil.     (i)  Buchanan. 

D.  xiphophyllus.  Baker.     (2)  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  Scott-Elliot ;  Carson. 

D.  lupinoidesy  Baker.     (2)  Carson. 

Dolichos  spp.     (i)  Chiradzulu,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Nutt ;  Carson. 

Cajanus  indicuSy  Spreng.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan. 

Rhynchosia  cyanospenna^  Benth.    (i)  Mafianja  hills,  Meller;  Chiradzulu,  Whyte;  Buchanan. 

R,  detisiflora,  DC.     (i)  Shire  River,  Kirk. 

R,  antennuliferay  Baker,     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Shire  Highlands,  Meller. 

R.  caribaea,  DC.     (i)  Buchanan. 


244  BRITISH    CENTRAL    AFRICA 

Leguminosae. 

Rhynchosia  minima^  DC.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Upper  Shire  River,  Scott-Elliot. 

R.  comosa,  Baker,     (i)  Buchanan. 

Rhynchosia  spp.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Eriosejna  cajanoides^  Hook.  fil.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte ;   Buchanan;  (2)  Carson;  (3)  Serpa 

Pinto. 
E.  pannflorutn,  E.  Mey.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan. 
E.  flcmingioides^  Baker,     (i)  Buchanan. 

E,  shirensisy  Baker  fil.     (i)  Zomba,  Whyte  ;  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot. 
E.  montanum,  Baker  fil.     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot. 

E.  polystachyum^  Baker.     (2)  Carson. 

Eriosema  spp.    (i)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Carson;  Nutt ;  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa, 

J.  Thomson. 
Flemingia  rhodocarpa^  Baker,    (i)  Mafianja  hills,  Meller  ;  Buchanan  ;  Chiradzulu,  Whyte. 

F.  macrocalyx^  Baker  fil.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 
Dalbergia  Melanoxylon^  Guill.  et  Perr.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Dalbergia  spp.     ( i )  Buchanan. 

Pterocarpus  melliferus^  Welw.     (i)  Zomba,  Whyte. 

Pterocarpus  %^,     (i)  Buchanan. 

Lonchocarpns  InxiJloruSy  Guill.  et  Perr.,  var.  sericeus,  Baker,     (i)  Zomba  and  east  end  of 

Lake  Chilwa,  Meller  ;  Buchanan. 
Lonchocarpus  s'p^.    (i)  Buchanan. 
Deguelia  Stuhimanttt,  Taub.     (1)  Buchanan. 
Baphia  racemosa^  Hochst.     (4)  Batoka  country,  Kirk. 
Baphia  sp.     (i)  Chiradzulu,  Whyte. 
Osmosia  sp.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Swarisia  madagascariensis^  Desv.     (i)  Maravi  country  Kirk  ;  Buchanan. 
Cordyla  africana^  Lour,     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller. 
Cassia  abbre^fiaia,  Oliv.     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller;  west  shore  of  Lake  Nyasa,  Kirk; 

Buchanan. 
C.  petersiana,  C.  Bolle.     (i)  Lower  Shire  Valley,  Meller;  Blantyre,  Last;  Buchanan; 

Zomba  and  Chiradzulu,  Whyte. 
C.  didymobotrya^  Fresen.     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller;  (2)  Carson. 
C.  Grantii,  Oliv.     (i)  Maravi  country.  Kirk. 
C.  Tora,  L.     (1)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Carson. 

C.  Kirkii,  Oliv.     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Kirk  and  Meller  ;  Buchanan. 
C.  mimosoides,  L.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  (2)  Carson. 
C.  occidentalism  L.     (i)  Buchanan. 
C.  AbsuSy  L.     (1)  Buchanan. 
C.  goratensis^  Fresen.     (2)  Carson. 
Cassia  ^p,     (i)  Buchanan. 

Bauhinia  fassoglensis,  Kotschy.     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Waller  ;  Buchanan. 
B.  Kirkii,  Oliv.     (4)  Batoka  country.  Kirk. 
B.  Serpae,  Ficalho  et  Hiem.     (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 
B.  petersiana^  Bolle.     (i)   Mafianja   hills.  Waller;  Buchanan;   Mlanje,  McClounie  ;    (2) 

Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  Scott-Elliot. 
B,  reticulata^  DC.     (1)  Shire  River,  Meller  ;  Buchanan. 
Bauhiniasp.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Afzclia  cuanzeiisis^  Welw.     (i)  West  shore  of  Lake  Nyasa,  Kirk ;  Buchanan. 
Afzelia  sp.     (2)  Carson. 

Ctyptostpalum  inara7>iensi\  Oliv.     (1)  Maravi  country,  Kirk  ;  (2)  Nutt ;  Carson. 
Cryptoscpalum  sp.     (i)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 


BOTANICAL   APPENDICES  245 


Leguminosae. 

Brachyste^fa  appendiculata^  Benth.     (i)  Zomba  and  east  end   of  Lake   Chilwa,  Kirk  ; 

(2)  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  Scott-Elliot ;  (4)  Batoka  country,  Kirk. 
B,  globiflora^  Benth.    (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Whyte. 
B.  longifoliay  Benth.     (i)  Buchanan. 
B.floribunda^  Benth.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Tamarindus  indica^  L.     (i)  Shire  River,  Kirk  ;  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot ;  Buchanan  ; 

(4)  up  the  Zambezi  to  the  Batoka  country,  Kirk. 
Copaifera  coleosperma^  Benth.     (4)  Batoka  country.  Kirk. 
Burkea  africana^  Hook,    (i)  Buchanan. 
Trachylobium  sp.     Shire  Highlands,  Johnston. 
Erythrophleum guineense^  Don.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Parkia  Jilicoideay  Welw.     (i)  Shire  Valley,  Kirk  ;  Buchanan. 
Entada  abyssinica^  Steud.    (i)  Zomba,  Whyte. 

Entada  spp.    (i)  Zomba  and  east  end  of  Lake  Chilwa,  Meller ;  Buchanan. 
Piptadenia  Buchanam\  Baker,     (i)  Buchanan. 
Piptadenia  sp.     (i)  Zomba,  Whyte. 
Tetrapleura  andongensis^  Welw.     (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 
Neptunia  oleracea^  Lour,     (i)  Shire  River,  Kirk. 
Dichrosiachys  nutans^  Benth.     (i)  Zomba,  Whyte. 
D.  nyassana,  Taub.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Acacia  nigrescens,  Oliv.     (1)  Shire  River,  Kirk. 
A.pennata,  Willd.     (i)  Shire  Valley,  Kirk. 
A,  lasiopetala^  Oliv.     (i)  M'pemba  hill,  Kirk. 
A,  albida^  Del.     (i)  Shire  River,  Kirk. 
A,  Kirkii^  Oliv.    (4)  Batoka  country.  Kirk. 
A,  Seyal^  Del.     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller. 
A,fastigiatay  Oliv.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Acacia  spp.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Calliandra  s^,     (i)  Mlanje,  McClounie. 
Albizzia  anthelmintica^  A.  Brongn.     (i)  Shire  River,  Meller. 
A.  Lebbek^  Benth.     (i)  Buchanan. 
A.  versicolor^  Welw.     (i)  Maravi  country.  Kirk. 
A.fastigiata^  E.  Mey.     (i)  Buchanan;  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

Rosacea  E, 

Parinarium  Mobola,  Oliv.     (1)  Buchanan  ;  (4)  Batoka  country;  Kirk. 

P,  capense^  Harv.     (4)  Sesheke,  Kirk. 

Pygeum  africanum,  Hook.  fil.     (i)  Foot  of  Chiradzulu,  Kirk  ;  Buchanan. 

Rubus  apetalus^  Poir.    (1)  Foot  of  Chiradzulu,  Kirk  ;  Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan. 

/?.  huillensis^  Welw.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

Rubus  sp.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Alchemilla  sp.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

Ciiffortia  linearifolia^  Eck.  et  Zeyh.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

Cliffortia  sp.    (i)  Mlanje,  McClounie. 

Saxifragaceae. 

C horisty lis  shire nsis^  Baker  fil.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

Crassulaceae. 

Tillaea pentandra,  Royle.     (i)  Chiradzulu,  Whyte;  Blantyre,  Last  ;  Buchanan. 
T.  aquiiticiiy  L.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 


246 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


Crassulaceae. 

Crassula globularioides^  Britten,    (i)  Chiradzulu,  Meller;  Mlanje,  Whyte. 
C  abyssinica^  A.  Rich,     (i)  Zomba,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan. 
Crassula  spp.    (i)  Blantyre,  Last ;  Buchanan. 
Kalanchoe platysepala^  Welw.     (i)  Shire  Valley,  Kirk. 
K,  pilosa,  Baker.    (2)  Mweru,  Carson. 
.  K,  coccinea^  Welw.    (i).  Mananja  hills,  Meller. 
Kalanchoe  spp.     (i)  Chiradzulu,  Whyte  ;  (2)  Nutt ;  Carson. 
Cotyledon  sp.     (i)  Chiradzulu,  Whyte. 

Droseraceae. 

Drosera  rameniacea,  Burch.     (i)  Mlanje,  McClounie. 

D,  affimsj  Welw.    (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 

Hamamelideae. 

Myrothamnus flabellifolia^  Welw.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte;  Buchanan. 

COMBRETACEAE. 

Terfninalia  nyassensisy  Engl,     (i)  Buchanan. 

Terminalia  sp.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Combretum  holosericeum,  Sond.     (1)  Chiradzulu,  Kirk. 

C.  laurifoliuffiy  Engl,     (i)  Buchanan. 

C,  tomentosutriy  Don.     (4)  Batoka  country,  Kirk. 

C.  oatesiiy  Rolfe.     (2)  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  J.  Thomson. 

C.  mweroense,  Baker.     (2)  Mweru,  Carson. 

C.  spUndens^  Engl,     (i)  Buchanan. 

Combretum  spp.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Carson  ;  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  J.  Thomson. 

Myrtaceae. 

Eugenia  cordata^  Laws,     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller  ;  Buchanan. 

E.  owariensis^  P.  Beauv.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Eugenia  spp.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 

M  ELASTOM  ACEAE. 

Antherotoma  Naudini,  Hook.  fil.     (i)  Zomba,  Whyte  ;  (2)  Nutt. 

Dissotis phaeotricha^  Hook.  fil.     (i)  Mpatamanga,  Kirk  ;  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Nutt ;  Carson. 

D,  Melleri,  Hook.  fiL     (i)  Chiradzulu  and  Mananja  hills,  Meller ;  Zomba,  Kirk. 

D.  princepSf  Triana.      (i)   Mananja  hills,  Meller  and   Kirk;    Mlanje,   Chiradzulu,  and 

Zomba,  Whyte ;  Buchanan. 
D.  incanay  Triana.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan. 
D.  johnstoniann,  Baker  fil.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 
D.  cryptantha^  Baker,     (i)  Buchanan. 
Dissotis  spp.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Carson. 
Tristemma  sp.     (2)  Carson. 

Osbeckia  Antherotoma^  Naud.     (1)  Shire  Highlands,  K.  C.  Cameron. 
Osbeckia  spp.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 

Lythraceae. 

Rotalajiliformis^  Hiern.     (4)  Victoria  Falls,  Kirk. 

Nesaea  heptamera,  Hiern.     (i)  Zomba  and  east  end  of  Lake  Chilwa,  Meller. 

N.floribunda,  Sond.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  (4)  Victoria  Falls,  Kirk. 

Ammannia  salicifolia^  Monti.     (2)  Carson. 

A.  senega iensis^  Lam.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Ammannia  sp.     (2)  Carson  ;  (4)  Menyharth. 

Heteropyxis  natalensis^  Haw.     (i)  Buchanan. 


BOTANICAL   APPENDICES  247 

Onagraceae. 

Epilobium  sp.     (2)  Carson. 

Jussiaea pilosa,  H.  B.  K.     (1)  Shire  Valley,  Kirk;  Upper  Shire,  Scott-Elliot. 

/.  villosa^  Lam.     (i)  Lower  Shire  Valley,  Meller. 

J  lini/olia,  Vahl.     (i)  Upper  Shire,  Scott-Elliot ;  Buchanan. 

Ludwigia prostratuy  Roxb.    (i)  Buchanan. 

L.  parvi/olia^ 'Roy^y,    (i)  Buchanan. 

L,  jussiaeoidesy  Lam.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Trapa  bispinosa^  Roxb.    (i)  Shire  River,  Kirk;  Blantyre,  Last ;  Lake  Nyasa,  Laws(.^). 

Halorageae. 

Myriophyllum  sp.    (i)  Lake  Nyasa,  Laws. 

Samydaceae. 

Homalium  africanujn^  Benth.    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan. 

Turneraceae. 

Wortnskioldia    longepedunculata^    Mast.      (i)     Mananja     hills,     Meller    and    Waller; 

Buchanan ;    Mlanje,   Whyte ;    Shire    Highlands,    Scott-Elliot ;    (2)    North    Nyasa, 

L.  Scott ;  Carson  ;  var.  integrifolia^  Urb.,  Blantyre,  Last. 
W,  lobata^  Urb.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Passifloreae. 

Tryphostemma  apetalum^  Baker  fil.     (i)  Zomba,  Whyte. 
Tryphostetnma  sp.    (i)  Mlanje,  Scott- Elliot. 
Modecca  striata^  Mast,     (i)  Murchison  Falls,  Meller. 
Modecca  sp.    (i)  Buchanan. 

Cucurbitaceae. 

Trochomeria  macrocarpa^  Hook.  fil.     (i)  North  of  Chiradzulu,  Kirk. 

Adenopus  breviflorus^  Benth.    (i)  Elephant  Marsh  on  Shire  River,  Kirk  ;  Buchanan. 

Luffa  aegvptiaca^  Miller,     (i)  Buchanan. 

Luffa  sp.    (2)  Carson. 

Lagenaria  sp.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Momordica  Charantia^  L.     (i)  Shire  Valley,  Kirk  ;  Buchanan. 

M,  Morkorray  A.  Rich.     (2)  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  J.  Thomson. 

M.foetiday  Schum.  et  Thonn.    (1)  Zomba,  Whyte. 

Momordica  spp.     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot. 

Raphanocarpus  Kirkiiy  Hook.  fil.     (i)  Shire  River,  Kirk  ;  (4)  Menyharth. 

Cucumis  metuliferus,  E.  Mey.     (i)  Shire  River,  Kirk. 

C,  Meloy  L.     (1)  Buchanan. 

Cucumis  spp.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot ;  (2)  Carson. 

Zehneria  microsperma,  Hook.  fil.     (i)  Katunga,  Meller. 

Zehneria  sp.     (i)  Chiradzulu,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan. 

Mukia  scabrellay  Arn.     (i)  Shire  River,  Kirk. 

Cephalandra  sp.  ?     (i)  Mlanje,  Scott-Elliot. 

Cienolepis  s^.}    (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot. 

Begoniaceae. 

Begonia  sp.     (1)  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  J.  Thomson  ;  Carson. 


248  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

FiCOIDEAE. 

Mollugo  nudicaulis,  Lam.     (i)  Buchanan. 

M.  GlinuSj  A.  Rich,     (i)  Lake  Nyasa,  Scott-Elliot 

M.  Sperf^la^  L.     (i)  Buchanan  y  (2)  Carson. 

M.  verticiliaia,  L.    (i)  Buchanan. 

Mollugo  sp.    (i)  Buchanan. 

Umbelliferae. 

Hydrocolyle  moschata^  Forst.    (i)  Chiradzulu,  Kirk. 

H,  asiattca,  L.     (i)  Ruangwa,  near  Lake  Nyasa,  Kirk  ;  Buchanan  ;  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

Alepidea   anatymbica^   Eck.  et    Zeyh.     (i)    Sochi,  Kirk ;   Zomba,  Whyte ;    Buchanan ; 

(2)  Upper  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson  ;   Carson. 
Sanicula  europaea,  L.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Heteromorpha  arborescens^  Cham,  et  Schlecht.     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller ;   Chiradzulu, 

Whyte  ;   Buchanan  ;   Blantyre,  Last. 
Pimpinella  sp.    (i)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Nutt. 
Diplolophium  zambesiacum^  Hiern.     (4)  Batoka  country,  Kirk. 
Physolrichia  Buchanani,  Benth.     (1)  Buchanan  ;  Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  Zomba,  Kirk. 
Physotrichia  sp.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Peucedanum  fraxinifolium^   Hiern.       (i)    Mananja   hills,  Meller;   Chiradzulu,  Whyte; 

Buchanan. 
Peucedanum  sp.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  (2)  Carson. 
Lefeburia  spp.    (1)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot ;  Buchanan. 
Caucalis  infesia^  Curt,    (i)  Chiradzulu,  Whyte. 
C  melananthuy  Benth.  et  Hook.  fil.      (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte ;  (2)    Lower  plateau,  north  of 

Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
C,  pedunculata.  Baker  fil.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 
Caucalis  sp.    (i)  Buchanan. 

Araliaceae. 

Cussonia  spicata^  Thunb.     (i)  Chiradzulu,  Kirk  ;  Buchanan. 
C.  Kirkii,  Seem,    (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot. 
Cussonia  sp.    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan. 

Rubiaceae. 

Adina  microcephala^  Hiern?    (i)  Buchanan. 

Hymenodictyon  Kurria^  Hochst.     (i)  Buchanan. 

H.parvifoliumy  0\\y,    (i)  Buchanan. 

Crossopieryx  kotschyana,  Fenzl.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Pentas purpurea^  Oliv.    (i)  Mananja  hills,  Sochi  and  Mbami,  Kirk;  Buchanan  ;  Mlanje 

and  Chiradzulu,  Whyte. 
P.  camea,  Benth.,  var.  Klotsschii,  Scott-Elliot,    (i)  Buchanan. 
P,  longiflora^   Oliv.,  var.   nyassana,   Scott-Elliot,     (i)  Buchanan  :   Mlanje,   McClounie ; 

Chiradzulu,  Whyte  ;  (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  ot  Lake  Nyasa,  J   Thomson  ;  Carson. 
P.  confertijolia^  Baker.     (2)  Carson. 
/*.  modes ta^  Baker.     (2)  Mweru,  Carson. 
Pentas  spp.     Buchanan  ;  (2)  Carson  ;  Nutt. 
Otomeria  di/ala,  Hiern.     (i)  Zomba  and  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

Otomeria  sp.     {Pentas  spcciosa^  Baker),     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan  ;  Blantyre,  Last. 
Otomeria  sp.     (2)  Carson. 
Hedyotis  spp.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Carson. 


BOTANICAL   APPENDICES  249 

RUBIACEAE. 

Pentodon  decumbens,  Hochst.     (i)  Zomba,  Whyte. 
Oldenlandia  trtnervia^  Retz.     (i)  Buchanan. 
O.  echinulosa^  K.  Schum.     (i)  Buchanan. 
O.  giobosa,  Hiern.     (i)  Buchanan. 
O.  corymbosay  L.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Nutt. 
O,  macrophylla^  DC.     (i)  Buchanan. 
O.  macrodonia.  Baker.    (2)  Carson. 

O.  effusa^  Oliv.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Shire  Highlands,  K.  C.  Cameron. 
O.  Heyneiy  Oliv.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Blantyre,  Last ;  (2)  Carson. 
O.  Bojeri,  Hiern.    (i)  Buchanan  ;  (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 
O.  ienuissima,  Hiern.     (4)  Victoria  Falls,  Kirk. 
O,  oliverianoy  K.  Schum.    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte  and  McClounie. 
O.  hedyotoidesy  Boiss.    (i)  Mlanje,  Scott-Elliot. 
O,  lancifolia^  Schweinf.     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot. 
O.  virgata^  DC.    (2)  Carson. 

Oldenlandia  spp.      (i)   Buchanan;    Mlanje    and    Zomba,   Whyte;    Blantyre,   Last;  (2) 
Carson. 

Mussaenda  arcuata^  Poir.     Mananja  hills,  Waller ;   Kanjanje,  Kirk  ;    Buchanan  ;  Shire 

Highlands,  Scott-Elliot ;  (2)  Nutt. 
Mussaenda  sp.    (i)  Mlanje,  McClounie. 
Sab:'cea  %^,1    (i)  Buchanan. 

Heinsia jasminiflora^  DC.     (1)  Shire  River,  Kirk;  Blantyre,  Last. 
H.  benguelensisy  Welw.     (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
Heinsia  sp.    (i)  Mlanje,  McClounie. 
Rertiera  sp.  ?    (4)  Menyharth. 
Leptactina  sp.    (i)  Mlanje,  McClounie. 
Chomelia  Buchananii^  K.  Schum.    (1)  Buchanan. 
Randia  Buchananii^  Oliv.     ( i )  Zomba,  Whyte. 
Randia  spp.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Chiradzulu,  Kirk  ;  (2)  Nutt. 
Gardenia    Thunbergia,    L.    fil.      (1)    Lake    Chilwa,    Meller;    Mananja    hills,    Waller; 

Buchanan. 
G.  resiniflua^  Hiern.    (1)  Lake  Nyasa,  Kirk. 

G,  Manganjae^  Hiern.     (i)  Mananja,  Meller  ;  Chiradzulu,  Kirk  ;  Buchanan. 
Gardenia  sp.    (i)  Near  Lake  Chilwa,  Kirk  ;  Buchanan. 
Oxyanlhus  s\i.}    (i)  Buchanan. 
Zygoon  graveolensy  Hiern.     (i)  Shire  rapids,  Kirk. 
Empogona  Kirkii^  Hook.  fil.    (i)  Lake  Nyasa,  Kirk  ;  (4)  Menyharth. 
Tricalysia  Nyassae^  Hiern.     (1)  West  shore  of  Lake  Nyasa,  Kirk. 
T,  jasminiflora^  Benth.  et  Hook.  fil.      (i)  Lower  Shire,  Kirk;    Mananja  hills,  Meller; 

Buchanan. 
T.  Kirkiiy  Hiern.     (1)  River  Shire,  Kirk. 
Tricalysia  spp.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Pentanisia  Schweinf urthii,   Hiern.      (2)  Nutt;    Lower  plateau,  north   of   Lake   Nyasa, 

Thomson. 
Pentanisia  spp.     (i)  Buchanan;  (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
Cremaspora  africana,  Benth.     (i)  Buchanan. 
C,  coffeoidesj  Hemsl.     (i)  Ruo  River,  Johnston. 
C  heterophylla,  K.  Schum.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Polysphaeria  lanceolata^  Hiern.     (2)  Karonga  and  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  Scott-Elliot. 
Polysphaeria  s^^.     (i)  Buchanan;  (4)  Menyharth. 
Canihium  foetidunty  Hiern.     (i)  Mpatamanga,  Kirk. 


250  BRITISH    CENTRAL    AFRICA 

RUBIACEAE. 

Canthium  sanquebaricum^  Klotzsch.    (i)  West  shore  of  Lake  Nyasa,  Kirk. 

C.  lanciflorumy  Hicrn.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  (4)  Victoria  Fails,  Kirk. 

C,  Guensiiy  Sond.     (1)  Zomba,  Whyte ;  Buchanan ;  (2)  Upper  plateau,  north  of  Lake 

Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
Canthium  spp.    (i)  Buchanan  ;  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot;  (4)  Menyharth. 
Plecironia  sp.    (2)  Carson. 
Van^ieria  velutina,  Hiern.     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott- Elliot ;  Buchanan;  (4)  Batoka 

country.  Kirk. 
V.  edulis,  Vahl.     (i)  Buchanan. 
V.  infausta^  Burch.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Vangueria  sp.     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-EUiot. 
Fadogia  ancylantha^  Schweinf.     ( i )  Buchanan. 

F.  trtphylia,  Baker.     (2)  Carson. 

Fadogia    spp.      (i)    Buchanan ;     (2)    Nyasa-Tanganyika    plateau,    Scott-Elliot    and    J. 

Thomson ;    Carson. 
Craterispermum  iaurinum,  Benth.     (2)  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  Scott-Elliot. 
Ixora  laxiflora,  Sm.     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-EUiot. 
Ixora  sp.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Coffea  arabica,  L.     (i)  Chiradzulu,  Whyte. 
Pavetta  gracilis,   Klotzsch.      (i)    Mafianja  hills,  Kirk;    Shire   Highlands,  Scott-EUiot; 

(4)   Menyharth. 
P,  Baconia,  Hiern.    (2)  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  Scott-EUiot. 
P,  schumanniana,  Ferd.  Hoffm.     (i)  Buchanan. 
P,  canescens,  DC.     (i)  Zomba,  Whyte. 

Pavetta  sp.     (i)  Mlanje,  McClounie  ;  Zomba  and  Chiradzulu,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan. 
Psychotria  hirtella,  Oliv.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

Psychotria  sp.    (i)  Mlanje,  McClounie  ;  Zomba,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan. 
Grumilea  Kirkii,  Hiern.     (i)  Zomba,  Kirk. 

Siphomeris  foetens,  Hiern.     (i)  Shire  Rapids,  Kirk  ;  (4)  Menyharth. 
Otiophora  sp.     (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
Anthospermumwhyteanum^  Britten,     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 
A.  lanceolatum,  Thunb.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan. 
Anthospermum  sp.    (i)  Buchanan  ;  Mlanje,  McClounie  ;  (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake 

Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
Paederia  foctida,  L.     (1)  Buchanan. 
Sperinacoce  senensis,  Hiern.     (i)  Near  Sochi,  Kirk. 
S,  dibrachiaia,  Oliv.     (i)  Mananja  hills.  Kirk  and  Meller ;  Buchanan;   Mlanje,  Whyte; 

Blantyre,  Last. 
.V.  stricta,  L.     (i)  Blantyre,  Last ;  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Carson. 
Spennacoce  spp.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson; 

Nutt. 
Richardia  sp.     (1)  Shire  Highlands,  K.  C.  Cameron. 

Rubia  cordifolia,  L.    (i)  Shire  Highlands,  K.  C.  Cameron;  Buchanan;  Chiradzulu,  Whyte. 
Galium  Aparine,  L.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

G.  erectum,  Huds.     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-EUiot. 

G,  stennphyllum.  Baker.     (1)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Nutt ;  Carson. 

G.  Mollugo,  L.     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-EUiot. 

Galium  spp.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  Scott-EUiot ;  Carson. 

Vi^LERIANACEAE. 

Valeriana  capensis,  Thunb.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 


BOTANICAL   APPENDICES  251 

DiPSACEAE. 

Cephalaria   ceniauroides,    Rocm.    et    Schult.      (i)    Between    Mbami   and   Sochi,  Kirk; 

Buchanan  ;  (2)  Nutt ;   Carson  ;   Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  Scott- Elliot. 
Cephalaria  sp,     (2)  Upper  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
Scabiosa  Columbaria^  L.     (i)  Blantyre,  Last;  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot;  Buchanan; 

(2)  Upper  and  Lower  plateaux,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 

COMPOSITAE. 

Gutenbergia polycephala^  O.  et  H.     (i)  Lake  Chilwa,  Kirk. 

Bothriocline  Schimperi^  O.  et  H.     (i)  Blantyre,  Last ;   Mlanje  and  Chiradzulu,  Whyte ; 
Buchanan. 

B.  laxa,  N.  E.  Br.    (i)  Blantyre,  Last. 

Vemonia  marginatay  O.  et  H.     (i)  Shire  River,  Stewart ;  Buchanan  ;  Zomba  and  Chirad- 
zulu, Whyte  ;  (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 

V,  purpurea,  Sch.  Bip.     (i)  Chiradzulu,  Mcller. 

V.  cistifolia,  O.  Hoffm.,  var.  rosea^  O.  Hoffm.     (1)  Buchanan. 

V.  Melleri,  O.  et  H.     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller. 

V.  oxyura,  O.  Hoffm.     (i)  Buchanan. 

V.  pteropoda,  O.  et  H.     (i)  Chiradzulu,  Meller  and  Whyte  ;  Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan. 

V.  senegalensisy  Less,     (i)  Near  Katunga,  Meller  ;  (2)  Nutt. 

V.  glabra^  Vatke.     (1)  Shire   River,   Meller;    Buchanan;   Mlanje,  Whyte;   (2)  Lower 
plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 

V.  shirensis,  O.  et  H.    (i)  Shire  Valley,  Meller. 

V,  oocephala,  Baker,     (i)  Carson. 

V,  livingstoniana^  O.  et  H.     (1)  Mananja  hills,  Meller  ;  Shire,  Stewart ;  Buchanan. 

V.  podocoma,  Sch.  Bip.     (1)  Mananja  hills,  Meller;  Buchanan. 

V,  aemulans,  Vatke.     (i)  Mlanje,  McClounie. 

V.  cinerascens,  Sch.  Bip.     (i)  Lake  Nyasa,  Scott-Elliot. 

K  decumbensy  Vatke.     (i)  Buchanan. 

V.  cinereay  Less.     (1)  Chiradzulu,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan  ;  Blantyre,  Last ;  (2)  Carson. 

V.  naialensis,  Sch.  Bip.     (1)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot ;  Zomba  and  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

V.  Perottetii^  Sch.  Bip.     (2)  Carson. 

V.poskeana,  Vatke  et   Hildebr.     (i)  Buchanan;   Upper  Shire,  Scott-Elliot;   Blantyre, 
Last ;  Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  (2)  Carson. 

V.  subaphylla.  Baker.     (2)  Mweru,  Carson. 

V.  whyteanay  Britten,     (i)  Zomba,  Whyte. 

Vemonia  spp.    (i  and  2.)    There  are'many  unnamed  specimens  in  the  Herbarium  at  Kew 

from  all  the  botanists  who  have  collected  in  these  two  regions. 
Elephantopus  scaber,  L.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Elephantopus  sp.     (2)  Carson. 
Adenostemma  viscosum,  Forst.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Aster  sp.    (i)  Mlanje,  McClounie. 

Ageratum  conyzoides^  L.     (i)  Mlanje  and  Chiradzulu,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan. 
Eupatorium  africanumy  O.  et  H.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Mlanje  and  Zomba,  Whyte. 
Mikania  scandens^    Willd.     (i)    Murchison    Falls,  Meller ;   Buchanan ;   Chiradzulu   and 

Zomba,  Whyte  ;  (2)  Carson. 
Dicrocephala  lati/olia,  DC.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan. 

Felicia  abyssinica^  Sch.  Bip.     (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
Felicia  sp.     (2)  Upper  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
Erigeron  sp.     (2)  Nutt. 

Microglossa  volubilis^  DC.     (1)  Mananja  hills,  Meller  ;  Buchanan. 

Nidorella  microcephala,  Steetz.     (1)  Shire  Valley,  Meller;  Mlanje  and  Zomba,  Whyte; 
Lake  Nyasa,  Scott-Elliot ;  Buchanan. 


252  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

COMPOSITAE. 

Ntdorella  sp.    (i)  Chiradzulu,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan. 

Cony za per sicifoUay  O.  et  H.     (i)  Mlanje,  McClounie  ;  Chiradzulu,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan. 

C  variegata,  Sch.  Bip.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

C,  Hochstetteriy  Sch.  Bip.     (i)  Buchanan. 

C.  aegypiiaca,  Ait.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

Conyza    spp.     (i)    Buchanan ;    Shire    Highlands,  Scott-Elliot ;    (2)    Nyasa-Tanganyika 

plateau,  Scott-Elliot. 
Psiadia  sp.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Upper  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
Blumea  lacera^  DC.     (i)  Zomba,  Whyte;   Buchanan;  (2)  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau, 

Scott- Elliot. 
Blumea  sp.    (i)  Buchanan. 
Laggera  brevipes^  O.  et  H.     (i)  Sochi,  Kirk. 

L.  alata^  Sch.  Bip.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
Denekia  capensis,  Thunb.    (4)  Batoka  country,.  Kirk. 
Sphaeranthus  hirtus^  Willd.     ( 1 )  Buchanan. 
Sphaeranthus  sp.     (i)  Shire    Highlands,  K.  C.  Cameron  ;  (2)  Carson  ;  Lower  plateau, 

north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson  ;  (4)  Menyharth. 
Amphidoxafilaginea^  Ficalho  et  Hiem.     (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 
Achyrocline  batocanay  O.  et  H.     (4)  Batoka  country.  Kirk. 
A,  Hochstetieri,  Sch.  Bip.     (i)  Blantyre,  Last ;  Mlanje,  Whyte. 
A.  Schimperi,  Sch.  Bip.    (1)  Mananja  hills,  Meller  ;  Mlanje,  Whyte. 
Gnaphalium  Steudelii^  Sch.  Bip.    (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller  ;  Buchanan. 
(7.  luteo-album,  L.    (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot ;  Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan. 
Gnaphalifim  sp.    (i)  Buchanan. 

Helichrysum  pachyrhizum^  Harv.     (4)  Batoka  country.  Kirk. 
H,  auriculatum,  Less,      (i)   Mananja  hills,    Meller;   Shire,  Stewart;  Zomba,   Whyte; 

Buchanan ;  Katunga,  Kirk. 
H,  Kirkii^O.  et  H.     (i)  Maiianja  hills,  Meller;  Sochi,  Kirk;  Shire,  Stewart;   Maravi 

country  (?)  Kirk  ;  Buchanan  ;  Blantyre,  Last ;  (2)  Carson  ;  Nutt. 
H.  nitensy  O.  et  H.     (i)  Chiradzulu,  Meller  ;  Mlanje,  Whyte  and  McClounie ;  Blantyre, 

Last ;  Buchanan. 
H.  argyrosphaerum,  DC.    (i)  Maravi  country.  Livingstone  and  Kirk. 
H.  globosum^  Sch.  Bip.     (i)  Buchanan. 

H.  gerberaefoliuniy  Sch.  Bip.     (i)  Sochi,,  Kirk  ;  Shire  River,  Stewart ;  Mlanje,  Whyte. 
//.  Pelersii,  O.  et  H.     (i)  Mpatamanga,  Kirk. 
If,  oxyphyllum,  DC.     (i)  Mafianja  hills,  Meller. 

H.  cymosum,  D.  Don.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  Blantyre,  Last ;  Buchanan. 
H.  Buchananiiy  Engl,     (i)  Mlanje  and  Zomba,  Whyte;  Mlanje,  McClounie;  Blantyre, 

Last ;  Buchanan. 
H.  nudiflorum^  Less,     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 
H.  whyteanum^  Britten,     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte  and  McClounie  ;  Buchanan. 
H.  milanjiense,  Britten.     (1)  Mlanje,  Whyte  and  McClounie. 
H.  densiflorum^  Oliv.     (i)  Mlanje  and  Zomba,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan. 
H.  latifolium^  Less,     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte  and  McClounie. 
H,  undaium^  Less,     (i)  Zomba,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan  ;  Blantyre,  L.  Scott. 
H.  Lasttiy  Engl,     (i)  Zomba,  Whyte. 

H.foetidum,  Cass.     (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
Helichrysum  spp.     (1)  Buchanan;   Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot;    Mlanje,  McClounie; 

Blantyre,  Last  and  L.  Scott;  (2)  Upper  and  Lower  plateaux,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa, 

J.  Thomson. 
Athrixia  rosmanni/oh'a,  O.  et  H.     (i)  Chiradzulu,  Meller;  Zomba,  Mlanje, and  Chiradzulu, 

Whyie  ;  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 


BOTANICAL   APPENDICES 


253 


COMPOSITAE. 

Inula  (^lomerata,  O.  et  H.     (i)  Sochi,  Kirk  ;  Buchanan. 

/.  shirensis,  Oliv.     (1)  Buchanan. 

Inula  spp.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Bojeria  vestita,  Baker.     (2)  Carson. 

Geigeria  Zeyheri^  Harv.     (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 

Sphacophyllum  Lastii^  O.  Hoffm.     (1)  Blantyre,  Last. 

5.  Kirkii,  Oliv.     (i)  Zomba,  Kirk. 

AnisopappHs  africanuSy  O.  et  H.     (1)  Buchanan. 

Anisopappus  sp.     (2)  Carson. 

Ambrosia  sp.     (2)  Carson. 

EcUpta  erecta,  L.    ( i )  Buchanan. 

Epallage  deniata,  DC.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

Blainvillea gayana^  Qd&s.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

Blainvillea  sp.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Aspilia  Kotschyi,  Benth.  et  Hook.  fil.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Aspilia  spp.     (i)  Shire  Highlands  and  Lake  Nyasa,  Scott-Elliot ;  Buchanan  ;  Chiradzulu, 

Whyte  ;  (2)  Carson  ;  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  J.  Thomson  ;  Nutt. 
Melanthera  abyssinica^  O.  et  H.     (i)  Zomba,  Whyte. 
M.  Browmi,  Sch.  Bip.     (i)  Zomba,  Whyte  ;  (2)  Carson. 
SpUanthes  Acmella^  L.     (i)  Shire  River,  Kirk  ;  Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan. 
Spilanthes  sp.     (2)  Nutt. 

Siegesbeckia  abyssinica^  O.  et  H.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Guizotia  btdenloides,  O.  et  H.     (i)  Mafianja  hills.  Kirk. 
Guisotia  sp.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Coreopsis  Sleppia^  Steetz.     (i)   Mafianja  hills,   Kirk;    Chiradzulu,  Whyte;    Buchanan; 

(2)  Carson. 
C,  Grantii^  Oliv.     (2)  Carson. 

Coreopsis  spp.     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot ;  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Nutt. 
Bidens  lineariloba,  O.  et  H.     (2)  Carson. 
B.  pHosa,  L.     (i)  Mlanje  and  Chiradzulu,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of 

Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
Bidens  sp.     (2)  Carson. 

Chrysanthellum procumbenSy  Pers.    (i)  Buchanan. 
Jaumea  sp.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Carson. 
Gynura  cemua^  Benth.     (i)  Zomba  and  Chiradzulu,  Whyte;    Mananja  hills,  Meller  ; 

Blantyre,  Last ;    Buchanan ;    (2)    Nyasa-Tanganyika   plateau,    Scott-Elliot ;    Lower 

plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson  ;  Carson. 
G.  amplexicaulis^  O.  et  H.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 
G.  crepidioides,  Benth.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  (2)  Carson. 
G,  vitellina^  Benth.     (2)  Carson. 
Gynura  spp.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Nutt ;  Carson. 

Gongrothamnus  divaricatus,  Steetz.     (i)  Lower  Shire  Valley,  Kirk  and  Meller. 
Cineraria  kilimanscharica^  Engl.     ( 1 )  Mlanje,  Whyte. 
Cineraria  spp.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Emilia  sagittata^  DC.     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller  ;  Shire  Valley,  Kirk  ;  Blantyre,  Last ; 

(2)  Carson. 
E,   iniegri/olia,  Baker.     (2)   Nutt;   Carson;   Lower  plateau   north  of  Lake   Nyasa,  J. 

Thomson. 
Emilia  sp.    (i)  Buchanan. 

Senecio  bupleuroidesy  DC.     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller;  Sochi,  Kirk;  Buchanan. 
S,  cyaneus^  O.  Hoffm.     (i)  Buchanan. 


254  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

COMPOSITAE. 

Senecio  deltoideus.  Less,    (i)  ?  Mpatamanja,  Kirk  ;  Buchanan. 

S.  subscandens,  Hochst     (i)  Murchison  Falls,  Mcllcr. 

S.  mweroensiSf  Baker.     (2)  Mweru,  Carson. 

S.  lasiorhisus,  DC.     (i)  Mlanje,  McClounie  and  ?  Whyte. 

5.  lati/olius,  DC.     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot ;  Mlanje  and  Zomba,  Whyte. 

.S'.  auriculatisstmus,  Britten,     (i)  Zomba  and  Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan. 

.V.  whyUanusy  Britten,    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

Semcio  spp.     (i)   Buchanan;  Shire   Highlands,  Scott-Elliot;   Chiradzulu,  Whyte;   (2) 

Nutt ;  Carson. 
Othonna  whyteana^  Britten,    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte  and  McClounie. 
Tripteris  monocephala^  O.  et  H.    (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller. 
Osteospermum  moniliferum^  L.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa, 

J.  Thomson. 
Haplocarpha  scaposa,  Harv.     (i)  Sochi,  Kirk  ;  (2)  Carson. 
Gazania  serrulaia,  DC.     (i)  Sochi,  Kirk. 
Gazania  sp.     (i)  Zomba,  Whyte. 
Berkheya  Zeyheri^  Sond.  et  Harv.    (i)  Kanjanje,  Kirk;  Buchanan;  (2)  Upper  plateau, 

north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
B.johmtoniana,  Britten,    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

/?.  subulata^  Harv.    (i)  Zomba,  Kirk  ;  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot ;  Buchanan. 
Berkheya  sp.     (2)  Carson. 
Carduus  Uptacanthus,  Nees.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Pleiotaxis  p7ilcherrima^  Steetz.     (2)  Carson. 
Pleiotaxis  sp.     (2)  Carson. 
Erythrocephalum  zambesiacimu,  O.  et  H.     (i)  Shire  Valley,  Waller;    Mafianja  country, 

Kirk ;    Blantyre,    Last ;    Buchanan ;    Shire    Highlands,   Scott- Elliot ;    Mlanje    and 

Zomba,  Whyte. 
Erythrocephalum  spp.     (2)  Carson  ;  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
Phyllactinia  Graniii,  Benth.     (2)  Carson. 
Dicoma  Kirkii^  Harv.     (4)  Batoka  country,  Kirk. 
D.  sessiliflora^  Harv.     (i)  Lake  Chilwa,  Kirk  ;  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Carson. 
D.  anomalay  Sond.    (i)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Carson  ;  (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 
D.  tomentosay  Cass.     (4)  Menyharth. 
D.  quinquevttlnera^  Baker.     (2)  Mweru,  Carson. 
Gerbera  abyssinica,   Sch.   Bip.     (i)   Mlanje,  Whyte  and   McClounie;    Zomba,  Whyte; 

Buchanan. 
G.  piloselloides^  Cass.    (1)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot;  Buchanan;  (2)  Lower  plateau, 

north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
Gerbera  spp.      (i)   Shire   Highlands,   Scott-Elliot;    Buchanan;    (2)   Nyasa- Tanganyika 

plateau,  Scott-Elliot ;   Upper  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 

Tolpis  abyssinicay  Sch.  Bip.     (i)  Mlanje  and  Zomba,  Whyte. 

Crepis  sp.    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte  and  McClounie  ;  Buchanan. 

Lactuca  abyssinica,  Fresen.     (i)  Buchanan. 

L.  capensis^  Thunb.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Mlanje  and  Zomba,  Whyte  ;  (2)  Carson. 

luictuca  sp.     (i)  Mlanje,  McClounie;  (2)  Carson. 

Sonchus  Bipontini^  Aschers.     (i)  Lower  Shire  Valley,  Meller. 

S.  Schwehtfurthn,  O.  et  H.     (i)  Buchanan. 

S.  rarifoliusy  O.  et  H.     (i)  Zomba  and  east  end  of  Lake  Chilwa,  Meller. 

S.  oieraceusj  L.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Sonchus  spp.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Mlanje,  McClounie. 

Lobelia  triillifolia^  Hemsl.     (i)  Chiradzulu,  Meller. 


BOTANICAL   APPENDICES  255 

Caaipanulaceae. 

Lobelia  MelUri^  Hemsl.    (i)  Chiradzulu,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan. 

L,  Nyassaey  Engl,     (i)  Buchanan. 

L.  nuday  Hemsl.     (4)  Batoka  country,  Kirk. 

L./ervenSy  Thunb.    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

L.  natalensisy  A.  DC.     (i)  Zomba,  Whyte  ;  (4)  Victoria  Falls,  Kirk. 

L.  coronopifolia^  L.     (1)  Mlanje,  McClounie  ;  Zomba,  Whyte. 

Lobelia  spp.    (i)  Buchanan  ;  Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  Blantyre,  Last ;  (2)  Carson  ;  Nutt ;  Upper 

and  Lower  plateaux,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
Cephalostigma  hirsuium^  Edgw.    (i)  Near  Katunga,  Meller. 
Sphenoclea  seylantca,  Gaertn.     (4)  Menyharth. 
Lightfootia  abyssinica,  Hochst.    (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller;  Mlanje  and  Zomba,  Whyte ; 

Buchanan  ;  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot ;  (2)  Nutt. 
L.  arenaria,  A.  DC.    (i)  Blantyre,  Last. 
Lightfootia^  ^Y^,    (i)  Buchanan;  (2)  Upper  and  Lower  plateaux,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa, 

J.  Thomson. 
Wahlenbergia  oppositifolia,  A.  DC.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 
W.  virgata^  Engl,    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte  and  McClounie  ;  Buchanan. 
Wahlenbergia  spp.    (1)  McClounie  ;  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Nutt ;  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake 

Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 

Vacciniaceae. 

Vaccinium  africanum,  Britten.     (1)  Mlanje,  Whyte  and  McClounie. 

Ericaceae. 

Agauria  salici/olia,  Hook.  fil.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa, 

J.  Thomson. 
Erica  johnstoniatuiy  Britten,     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 
E,  whyteana,  Britten.    ( i )  Mlanje,  Whyte. 
Erica  sp.     (i)  Zomba,  Whyte  ;  Mlanje,  McClounie  ;  Buchanan. 
Blaeria  setulosa^  Welw.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 
B.  microdonta^  Wright.     (1)  Mlanje,  McClounie. 
Blaeria  sp.     (i)  Blantyre,  Last. 

Philippia  tnilanjieftsis,  Britten  et  Rendle.    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 
P.  benguellensiSy  Welw.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 
Philippia  spp.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot. 
Ericinella  Mannii^  Hook.  fil.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Plumbaginaceae. 

Plumbago  zeylanica^  L.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Carson. 

Primulaceae. 

Anagallis  quartiniana,  Engl,    (i)  Mlanje,  McClounie. 
Anagallis  sp.     (2)  Carson. 

Myrsineae. 

Maesa  lanceolata^  Forsk.     (1)  Chiradzulu,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan. 
Maesa  sp.     (i)  Buchanan. 

iXfyrsine  africana,  L.     (i)  Mlanje,  McClounie;  Buchanan. 
Ardisia  sp.     (1)  Buchanan. 


256  BRITISH    CENTRAL    AFRICA 

Sapotaceae. 

Chrysophyllum  magalismontanum^  Sond.     (4)  Batoka  country,  Kirk. 

C.  Stuhlmannii^  Engl,    (i)  Buchanan. 
Chrysophyllum  spp.     (1)  Buchanan. 

Sideroxylon  brevipes.  Baker.    (2)  North  end  of  Lake  Nyasa,  Kirk. 
Mimusops  Mochisiay  Baker.  '  (4)  Batoka  country,  Kirk. 
M.  Kirkii^  Baker,     (i)  Lower  Shire  Valley,  Kirk. 
M.  Buchananiiy  Engl,     (i)  Buchanan. 

Ebenaceae. 

Royena  pallens,  Thunb.     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller  ;  (4)  Sesheke,  Kirk. 

R.  whyteana^  Hiern.    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

Royena  sp.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Euclea  Divinorum^  Hiern.     (4)  Victoria  Falls,  Kirk. 

E,  multiflora^  Hiern.     (4)  Menyharth. 

Euclea  sp.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Maba  spp.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Diospyros  shtrensis,  Hiern.     (1)  Fort  Johnston  and  River  Ruo,  Scott-Elliot. 

D.  batokana,  Hiern.     (4)  Batoka  country.  Kirk. 
Diospyros  sp.     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot. 

Oleaceae. 

Jasminium  stetiolobum,  Harv.     (1)  Mananja  hills,  Meller;  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot; 

Buchanan  ;  (4)  Batoka  country,  Kirk. 
/.  brachyscyphum^  Baker,     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Mlanje,  McClounie. 
/.  Walleri,  Baker,    (i)  Maiianja  hills,  Waller. 
/.  maurittanunty  Bojer.     (1)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  J.  Thomson  ;  (4) 

Sesheke,  Holub. 
/.  microphyllumy^2\itx,    (i)  Mlanje,  McClounie. 
/  Kirkii,  Baker,     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot. 
Jasminium  spp.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Schrebera  Buchanani,  Baker,     (i)  Buchanan. 
.S".  alaia^  Welw.    (i)  Buchanan. 
S,  golungensisj  Welw.     (4)  Menyharth. 
Schrebera  sp.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Salvadoraceae. 

Salvadora  persica^  L.     (1)  Buchanan  ;  (4)  Menyharth. 
Azima  spp.     (1)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot ;  (4)  Menyharth. 

Apocynaceae. 

Landolphia  Kirkii^  Dyer,     (i)  Zomba,  Whyte. 

Landolphia  s^.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Carissa  Arduina,  Lam.    (i)  Buchanan. 

C  eduliSfVahl.    (i)  Buchanan  ;   Mananja  hills,  Meller;   Chiradzulu,  Whyte  and  Kirk; 

(4)  Victoria  Falls,  Kirk. 
Diplorrhynchus  mossatnbicensisy  Benth.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  (4)  Menyharth. 
D.  psilopusy  Welw.     (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 

Rauwolfia  caffra^  Sond.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Mananja  and  Katunga,  Kirk. 
Holarrhena  febrifuga^  Klotzsch.    (i)  Buchanan  ;  Maiianja  hills,  Meller  ;  west  side  of  Lake 

Nyasa,    Kirk ;   Zomba,   Whyte ;   Lake    Chilwa,    McClounie ;  (2)   Nyasa-Tanganyika 

plateau,  Scott-EUiot. 


BOTANICAL   APPENDICES  257 

Apocynaceae. 

Tabemae montana  stapfiana^  l^nittn.    (i)  Mlanje,  VVhyte. 

T,  ventricosay  Hochst.    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

71  elegans,    (i)  River  Ruo,  Johnston. 

Voacanga   africana^   Stapf.      (i)    Shire    Valley,    Kirk ;    Shire    Highlands,   Scott-Elliot ; 

Buchanan. 
Strophanthus  Kombe^  Oliv.    (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller ;   Buchanan  ;  (4)  Victoria  Falls, 

Kirk. 

S,  ecaudatusy  Rolfe.    (i)  Buchanan  ;  (4)  Batoka  country,  Kirk. 
Strophanthus  sp.    (2)  Carson  ;  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  Scott- Elliot. 
Mascarenhasia  variegata^  Britten  et  Rendle.    (1)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 
A(Unium  multiflorum^  Klotzsch.    (i)  Near  Metope,  L.  Scott. 

ASCLEPIADACEAE. 

Cryptolepis  obtusa^  N.  E.  Br.     (1)  Lower  Shire  Valley,  Meller ;  (4)  Menyharth. 

C,  Welwitschii^  Schlechter.      (i)  Buchanan ;    Mlanje,  Whyte ;  (2)   Nyasa-Tanganyika 
plateau,  Scott-Elliot. 

Cryptolepis  sp.    (i)  Mananja  hills  and  west  shore  of  Lake  Nyasa,  Kirk;  Shire  Highlands, 

Scott-Elliot. 
Raphionacme  grandiflora^  N.  E.  Br.    (1)  Blantyre,  Last. 
/?.  longifolia^  N.  E.  Br.    (i)  Mafianja  hills.  Kirk. 

Secamone  zambesiaca^  Schlechter.    (i)  Shire  River,  Kirk  ;  Chiromo,  Scott-Elliot. 
Taccazia  Kirkity  N.  E.  Br.    (4)  Menyharth. 
Chlorocodon  Whytei^  Hook.  fiL    (1)  Buchanan. 
Daemia  extensa^  R.  Br.    (i)  Shire  Valley,  Meller;  Buchanan. 

D.  barbatUy  Klotzsch.    (4)  Menyharth. 
Xysmalobitim  spurium^  N.  E.  Br.    (i)  Buchanan. 
X,  Carsonty  N.  E.  Br.    (2)  Carson. 

X.  bellumy  N.  E.  Br.     (i)  Buchanan;    Mananja  hills,  Kirk;   Shire  Highlands,  K.  C. 

Cameron ;  (2)  Carson. 
X.  reticulatum,  N.  E.  Br.    (1)  Buchanan. 
X.fraternum,  N.  E.  Br.     (i)  Blantyre,  Last. 
Xysmalobium  sp.    (2)  Carson. 
Schizogiossum  connaiuniy  N.  E.  Br.    (2)  Carson. 

.  elatutfty  K.  Schum.    (i)  Buchanan. 
S.  shtrenscy  N.  E.  Br.    (i)  Shire  Valley,  Kirk  and  Waller. 
S,  Nyasacy  Britten  et  Rendle.    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte ;  Buchanan. 
5".  barbatuniy  Britten  et  Rendle.    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte  and  McClounie. 
S,  erubescensy  Schlechter.    (i)  Mlanje,  Scott-Elliot. 
Schizogiossum  sp.     (i)  Mlanje,  Scott-Elliot ;  (4)  Menyharth. 

Asclepias  spectabilisy  N.  E.  Br.    (i)  Buchanan  ;  Blantyre,  Last ;  Magomera,  Waller. 
A,  conspicnuy  N.  E.  Br.    (2)  Carson. 
A,  fruticostty  L.    (i)  Lower  Shire  Valley,  Meller. 
.  A.  amabilisy  N.  E.  Br.    (2)  Carson. 
A.  pygmaea,  N.  E.  Br.    (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
A.  reflexay  Britten  et  Rendle.     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller  and  Waller;  Zomba,  Meller; 

Mlanje,    Whyte;    Shire    Highlands,    Scott-Elliot;    Buchanan;    (2)    North    Nyasa, 

L.  Scott 
A.  lineolatay  Schlechter.      (i)  Mlanje,   Scott-Elliot;   Shire  Valley,  Kirk  and   Waller; 

(2)  Carson. 
A.palustriSy  Schlechter.    (i)  Zomba,  Whyte  ;  Mlanje,  Scott-Elliot  and  McClounie. 
Asclepias  sp.     (2)  Nutt. 

17 


258 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


ASCLEPIADACEAE. 

Gomphocarpus  foliosus^   K.   Schum.     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Waller;   Blantyre,  Last;   (2) 

Higher  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
Brachystelma  Btuhananiy  N.  E.  Br.     (i)  Sochi,  Chiromo  and  Mananja,  Scott-Elliot ; 

Buchanan. 
Cynanchum  mossambicense^  K.  Schum.    (i)  Shire  Rapids,  Kirk. 

Margaretta  distincta,  N.  E.  Br.    (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
M,  orbicularis^  N.  E.  Br.    (1)  Maravi  country.  Kirk  ;  (2)  North  Nyasa,  L.  Scott 
M,  WhyUi,  K.  Schum.    (i)  Chiradzulu,  MeUer;  Zomba  and  east  end  of  Lake  Chilwa, 

Meller  ;  Blantyre,  L.  Scott ;  Buchanan  ;  Mlanje,  Whytc ;  near  Metope,  Scott-Elliot 
Dregea  macrantha^  Kl.    (i)  Chiromo,  Scott-Elliot ;  (4)  Menyharth. 
Gytnnema  sylvestre^  R.  Br.    (i)  Buchanan. 
Pergularia  a/ricana^  N.  E.  Br.    (i)  Zomba,  Whyte. 
Sphaerqcodon  obiusifolium^  Benth.    (i)  Buchanan. 
Ceropegia  constrictay  N.  E.  Br.    (2)  Carson. 
C,  debiliSj  N.  E.  Br.    (i)  Zomba,  Buchanan. 
Riocreuxia profusa,  N.  E.  Br.    (i)  Buchanan. 

LOGANLACEAE. 

Mostuaea  Brunonis,  F.  Didrichs.    (1)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

Buddleia  salviaefolia^  Lam.    (i)  Zomba,  Kirk  and  Whyte  ;  Buchanan. 

Buddleia  sp.    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

Nuxia  congested  R.  Br.    (i)  Buchanan;  Zomba,  Whyte;  var.  A^.  tomentosa^  Sond.^(i) 

Buchanan  ;  var.  N,  dentata^  R.  Br.    (i)  Mananja  nills,  Meller. 
N.  sambesina^  Gilg.     (i)  Zomba,  Kirk. 
Strychnos  dysophyllay  Btnih.    (i)  Buchanan. 
S.  spitwsay  Lam.    (i)  Mananja  hills.  Kirk ;  Buchanan. 
Sirychnos  sp.    (1)  Buchanan  ;  (4)  Menyharth. 

AnihocUista  zambesiaca^  Baker,    (i)  Buchanan  ;  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot 
A,  nobilis,  Don.    (i)  Zomba,  Whyte. 
Anthocleista  sp.    (i)  Buchanan. 

Gentianaceae. 

Exacum  sp.    (i)  Buchanan. 

Sebaea  brachyphylla^  Griseb.    (i)  Buchanan  ;  Blantyre,  Last 

5.  crassulaefolia^  Cham,  ct  Schlecht.    (i)  Mlanje  and  Zomba,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan. 

Sebaea  sp.    (4)  Victoria  Falls,  Kirk. 

Tachiadenus  continentalis^  Baker.    (2)  Carson. 

Chironia purpurascens,  Benth.    (i)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Nutt 

C.  laxifioray  Baker.,  (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller  and  Kirk. 

C.  densijlora,  Scott-Elliot    (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot 

Chironia  sp.    (2)  Nutt 

Faroa  salutaris,  Welw.    (i)  West  shore  of  Lake  Nyasa,  Kirk. 

F.  Buchanani,  Baker,    (i)  Buchanan. 

Swertia  Mannii^  Hook.  fil.    (i)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Carson  ;  Nutt. 

Swertia  spp.    (i)  Buchanan. 

Boragineae. 

Cordia  abyssinica^  R.  Br.    (i)  Buchanan. 

C.  Myxay  L.    (i)  Buchanan. 

C.  Kirkiiy  Baker.    (4)  Menyharth. 

C.  Rothii^  Roera.  et  Schult.    (4)  Menyharth. 


BOTANICAL   APPENDICES  259 

BORAGINEAE. 

Ehretia  divaricata^  Baker,    (i)  Chiradzulu,  Kirk. 

Ehretia  sp.    (4)  Menyharth. 

Trichodesma  zeylanicum^  R.  Br.    (i)  Blantyre,  Descamps. 

T.  physaloides^  A.  DC.    (i)  Zomba  and  cast  end  of  Lake  Chilwa,  Meller  ;  Mananja  hills, 

Meller ;  Zomba,   Whyte ;   Buchanan  ;    Shire   Highlands,  Scott-Elliot ;   (2)  Carson ; 

Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  J.  Thomson. 
Heliotropium  ovaltfolium,  Forsk.    (1)  Shire  Valley,  L.  Scott ;  Fort  Johnston,  Scott-Elliot 
N.  strigosumy  Willd.    (i)  Buchanan. 
H.  bracteatuMy  R.  Br.  •  (2)  North  Nyasa,  L.  Scott. 

H.  zeylantcunif  Lam.    (1)  Buchanan  ;  North  Nyasa,  L.  Scott  and  J.  Thomson. 
H.  indicum^  L.    (i)  Shire  River,  L.  Scott ;  Buchanan  ;  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot. 
Cynoghssum  lanceolatum^  Forsk.    (i)  Mlanje,  McClounie ;  Chiradzulu,  Whyte ;  Buchanan ; 

(2)  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  Scott-Elliot. 
Lithospermum  crythrocephalmn^  Baker.    (2)  Carson. 
Lobostemon  cryptocephalum^  Baker.    (2)  Carson. 

CONVOLVULACEAE. 

Argyreia  laxifloruy  Baker,    (i)  Buchanan. 

Lepistemon  africanum^  Oliv.    (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Kirk  ;  Lake  Nyasa,  Simons. 

Hewittia  bicoior,  Wight.    (1)  Chiradzulu,  Whyte;  Maiianja  hills,  Meller;  Shire  Valley, 

L.  Scott ;   Mlanje,  Whyte ;   Buchanan. 
Jacquemoniia  capiiata^  Don.    (i)  Shire  Valley,  L.  Scott. 

Convolvulus  hyoscyamoides^  Vatke.    (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
C.  malvaceus,  Oliv.     (i)  Shire   Highlands,  Scott-Elliot;    Mlanje,  Whyte;   Buchanan; 

(2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
C,  sagittatusy  Thunb.    (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
C,  Thomsoni,  Baker.    (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
Evolvulus  alsinoidesy  L.    (i)  Buchanan  ;  (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 
Ipomoea  simplex^  Thunb.    (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot ;  Buchanan. 
/.  PeS'Hgridis^  L.    (4)  Menyharth. 
/.  tanganyikensis.  Baker.    (2)  Carson. 
/.  discolor^  Baker.    (2)  Carson. 
/.  operosa^  Wright,    (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Whyte. 

/.  involucrata^  P.  Beau  v.    (i)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
Lpileata^  Roxb.     (2)  Carson  ;  Nutt. 

/.  crassipesy  Hook.    (1)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot;  Buchanan. 
/.  chryseides^  Ker.    (4)  Menyharth. 
/.  Hanntngiont\  Baker.    (2)  Carson. 
/.  Welwitschii,  Vatke.    (i)  Buchanan. 
/.   angustfolia^  Jacq.      (i)    Buchanan;   (2)  Lower   plateau,  north   of    Lake   Nyasa,  J. 

Thomson  ;  (3)  Serpa  Pinto ;  (4)  Menyharth. 
/.  vagans,  Baker,    (i)  Buchanan. 
/.  Carsontf  Baker.    (2)  Carson. 
/.  inconspicua,  Baker.    (1)  Buchanan. 
/.  eriocarpa^  R.  Br.    (i)  Shire  Highlands,  V.  Scott;  Buchanan;  (2)  Nyasa-Tanganyika 

plateau,  J.  Thomson  ;  (4)  Menyharth. 
/.  mweroensis^  Baker.    (2)  Mweru,  Carson. 
I.  pharbitifomtts,  Baker.    (2)  Mweru,  Carson. 
/.  simonsianay  Rendle.    (i)  Nyasa,  Simons. 
/.  shirensisy  Oliv.     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Kirk  ;  Buchanan. 
/.  halleriana,  Britten,    (i)  Buchanan  ;  Chiradzulu,  Whyte  ;  near  Katunga,  Kirk. 


26o  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

CONVOLVULACEAE. 

Ipomoea  tambclensis^  Baker,     (i)  Upper  Shire  Valley,  Kirk. 

L  obscura^    Koen.     (i)    Zomba,    Whyte ;    Buchanan;     (2)    Nyasa-Tanganyika    plateau, 

J.  Thomson. 
/.  Buchanant\  Baker.    (1)  Buchanan. 

/.  Lindleyi^  Choisy.    (1)  Shire  Valley,  Kirk  ;  Buchanan  ;  (4)  ?  Menyharth. 
/.  aquatica^  Forsk.     (1)  Lake  Nyasa,  Kirk. 
Lpilosa^  Sweet,    (i)  Buchanan  ;  (4)  Menyharth. 
/.  Wightii,  Choisy.    (4)  Menyharth. 
/.  afra^  Choisy.    (1)  Buchanan. 

I, pUrygocauiiSj  Choisy.    (i)  Shire  Valley,  Kirk  ;  Buchanan  ;  (4)  Menyharth. 
Lptnnata,  Hochst.     (1)  Buchanan  ;  (4)  Menyharth. 
/.  palmatay  Forsk.     (1)  Shire  Valley,  Kirk  ;  Buchanan  ;  (4)  Menyharth. 
/.  dissecta^  Willd.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  (4)  Menyharth. 
/.  kirkiana^  Britten,    (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Kirk;  Buchanan. 
Lfulvicaulisy  Boiss.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

SOLANACEAE. 

Solanum  fwdiflorum,  Jacq.     (1)  Shire  Valley,  Kirk. 

S,  nigrum,  L.    (1)  Blantyre,  Descamps. 

S,  schimperianum,  Hochst.     (i)  Chiradzulu,  Whyte. 

5.  Naumannii,  Engl,    (i)  Buchanan. 

5.  anomalum^  Thonn.     (i)  Chiradzulu,  Whyte. 

S.  aculeastrum^  Dun.    (i)  Blantyre,  L.  Scott ;  Buchanan  ;  Mananja  hills,  Meller. 

S.  Rohrtiy  Wright,     (i)  Mpatamanga,  Kirk. 

S,  chrysoirichum,  Wright,     (i)  Buchanan. 

S,  acanihocalyx,  Klotzsch.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

S.  trepidans,  Wright,     (i)  Shire  Valley,  L.  Scott. 

Physalis pubescens,  L.    (i)  Blantyre,  Descamps. 

P, peruviana,  L.     (i)  Blantyre,  L.  Scott. 

Capsicum  conoides.  Mill.    (4)  Sesheke,  Kirk. 

Datura  alba,  Nees.     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Kirk  ;  Buchanan  ;  Mafianja  hills,  Meller. 

SCROPHULARIACEAE. 

Diclis  ovata,  Benth.    (1)  Mandala,  Scott-Elliot. 

D.  tenella,  Hemsl.     (i)  Chiradzulu,  Whyte. 

Halle ria  lucida,  L.     (i)  Zomba,  Whyte. 

H.  elliptica,  Thunb.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

Chaenostoma  sp.    (2)  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  Scott-Elliot. 

Mimulus gracilis,  R.  Br.    (i)  Zomba  and  east  end  of  Lake  Chilwa,  Meller ;  Buchanan. 

Craierostigwa pianlagineum,  Hochst.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Torenia  pan'iflora^  Hamilt.     (2)  North  of  Lake  Nyasa,  L.  Scott. 

Vandcllia  lobelioides,  Oliv.     (2)  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  J.  Thomson. 

Ilysanthes  sp.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Shire  Valley,  L.  Scott ;  (2)  Nutt. 

Alectra  melampyroides,  Benth.      (i)   Mbami,  near  Blantyre  and  Mananja  hills-.   Kirk; 

Buchanan  ;  (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
Alectra,  sp.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Aulaya  obtusifolia,  Benth.     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  K.  C.  Cameron. 
lUichncra  quadrifaria,  Baker.      (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson  ; 

Carson ;  Nutt. 
B.  Liistii.  Engl,     (i)  Blantyre,  Last. 


BOTANICAL   APPENDICES  261 

SCROPHULARIACEAE. 

Buchnera  spp.     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller;  Buchanan;  Mlanje  and  Chiradzulu,  Whyte ; 

(2)  Upper  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
Striga  elegansy  Benth.     (i)  Blantyre,  Last. 
S.  coccinea^  Benth.    (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Kirk;  Buchanan. 
.S\  Forbesuy  Benth.     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Meller. 
.S'.  orobanchoides^  Benth.    (2)  North  of  Lake  Nyasa,  L.  Scott ;  Carson. 
Striga  spp.    (i)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  North  of  Lake  Nyasa,  L.  Scott ;  Carson. 
Rhamphiccxrpa fistulosa,  Benth.     (2)  North  of  Lake  Nyasa,  L.  Scott. 
R,  serrata,  Klotzsch.     (i)  Zomba  and  east  end  of  Lake  Chilwa,  Meller  ;  Buchanan. 
R,  tubulosa,  Benth.    (1)  Mandala,  Scott-Elliot. 

Rhamphicarpa  spp.    (i)  Mafianja  hills,  Kirk  ;  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Carson. 
Cycnium  adonense,  E.  Mey.    (i)  Mlanje  and  Zomba,  Whyte;   Buchanan;  (2)  Carson; 

Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  Scott-Elliot. 

C.  longiflorum,  Eck.  et  Zeyh.     (i)  Shire  Valley,  Kirk;   Buchanan;  (2)  North  of  Lake 

Nyasa,  J.  Thomson  and  L.  Scott. 
Cycnium  spp.    (i)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Carson. 
Sopubia  lanata^  Engl.     (2)  Carson  ;  Nutt. 
S.  ramosa^  Hochst.    (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller  and  Kirk ;   Blantyre,  Last ;   Buchanan ; 

(2)  Carson  ;   Nutt. 
S.  dregeana,  Benth.     (i)  Zomba,  Whyte  ;  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot. 
S,  Hildebrandtii,  Vatke.     (i)  Chiradzulu,  Whyte. 
Sopubia  spp.     (i)   Mananja  hills,  Meller;    (2)   Lower  plateau,  north  of   Lake  Nyasa, 

J.  Thomson;   Carson. 

Orobanchaceae. 

Orobanche  cernua^  Loefl.    (i)  Shire  Highlands,  L.  Scott. 

Lentibulariaceae. 

Utricularia  capensis^  Spreng.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Blantyre,  Last. 

Utricuhiria  spp.  (i)  Buchanan  ;  Lake  Nyasa,  Laws  ;  (2)  Nutt ;  Carson  ;  Lower  plateau, 
north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson  ;  (4)  Victoria  Falls  and  Batoka  country.  Kirk. 

Gesneraceae. 

Sirepiocarpus  caulescensy  Vatke.    (i)  Buchanan. 
S.  Cooperi,  C.  B.  Clarke,    (i)  Buchanan. 

Bignoniaceae. 

Tecoma  shirensis,  Baker,    (i)  Buchanan. 

T.  nyassae^  OH  v.    (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 

Dolichandrone  obtusi/olia,  Baker,     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Buchanan  and  Scott-Elliot 

D.  tomentosa^  Benth.    (2)  Carson. 

Stereospermitm  kunthianumy  Cham,  (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Waller;  Buchanan;  Chirad- 
zulu, Meller;  West  shore  of  Lake  Nyasa,  Kirk;  (2)  Mweru,  Carson;  (4)  Batoka 
country,  Kirk. 

Kigelia  pinnata^  DC.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Pedalineae. 

Sesamum  angoiense,  Welw.    (i)  Buchanan  ;  West  shore  of  Lake  Nyasa,  Kirk  ;  Blantyre  ; 

Last ;  (2)  Carson  ;  Nutt. 
S,  indicum^  L.     (2)  Karonga,  L.  Scott. 
S\calycinum,  Welw.     (4)  Holub. 
Ceratotheca  sesamoides,  Endl.     Buchanan;  (i)  Shire  Valley,   L.  Scott;   West  shore  of 

Lake  Nyasa,  Kirk  and  Simons ;   (2)  Carson  ;   Karonga,  L.  Scott ;  (4)  Holub. 
Ceratotheca  sp.    (2)  Karonga,  L.  Scott. 
Pretrea  zanquebarica,  J.  Gay.     (i)  Zomba  and  east  end  of  Lake  Chilwa,  Meller ;  (4)  Holub. 


262  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

Selagineae. 

Hebenstreitia  sp.     (4)  Holub. 
Selago  milanjiensis,  Rolfe.     (i)  Mlanjc,  Whyte. 
S,  whyieana^  Rolfe.    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte  and  McClounie. 

Selago  spp.     (i)  Chiradzulu,  Meller  and  Whyte;   Mlanje,  McClounie;   Buchanan;   (2) 
Lower  and  Upper  plateaux,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson ;  (4)  Menyharth. 

ACANTHACEAE. 

Thunbergia  kirkiana,  T.  Anders.     (1)  Buchanan  ;  Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan. 

7".  alaia,  Bojer.     (i)  Buchanan ;    Mlanje,  Whyte;    Mananja  hills,   Kirk  and  Meller; 
(2)  Carson. 

T.  lanci/olia,  T.  Anders,     (i)  Blantyre,  L.  Scott ;  Mananja  hills  and  Chiradzulu,  Meller; 
Buchanan  ;  Zomba,  Whyte  ;  (2)  Carson  ;  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  J.  Thomson. 

T,  obtust/olia,  Oliv.    (2)  Upper  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 

T.  erecia^fitnih.    (i)  Buchanan  ;  Blantyre,  Last ;  Mananja  hills.  Waller. 

71  oblongtfoliay  Oliv.     (1)  Mananja  hills,  Waller;    Buchanan;   (2)   Nyasa-Tanganyika 
plateau,  Scott-Elliot. 

7.  j«^///a/a,  Lindau.     (i)  Buchanan. 

T,  mollis^  Lindau.    (i)  Buchanan. 

T.  ntanganjensiSy  Lindau.     (1)  Mananja  hills.  Kirk. 

Thunbergia  spp.     (i)  Buchanan;  Zomba,  Whyte;   Shire  Highlands,  Scott- Elliot  ;    (2) 

Nutt ;   Carson  ;   Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  Scott-Elliot. 
Nelsonia  campestris^  R.  Br.     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller  ;  Buchanan. 
Hygrophila  spinosa,  T.  Anders,     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Shire  River,  Kirk. 
H. parvi/loray  Lindau.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Mellera  lobulaiuy  S.  Moore,     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Mananja  hills,  Meller. 
Cahphanes  spp.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Chiradzulu,  Whyte. 
Ruellia prostrata^  T.  Anders,     (i)  Buchanan;  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot;  Lower  Shire 

Valley,  Kirk  ;  (2)  Carson. 
Paulo-wilhtlmia  sp.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Chiradzulu,  Whyte  ;  Mananja  hills,  Meller. 
Mimulopsts  sesamoideSj  S.  Moore,     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 
Mimulopsis  sp.    (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
Eranthemum  senense,  Klotzsch.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Mlanje,  McClounie  ;  Mafianja  hills.  Kirk. 
Acanthopale  s^,    {Dischistocalyx  confertijioray  Lindau).    (i)  Buchanan. 

Whitjieldia  sp.     (2)  Carson. 
Dyschoristey  sp.   {Calopkanes  verticillaris^  Oliv.)    (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller;  Buchanan; 

Chiradzulu,  Whyte  ;   (2)jHigber  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
Dyschoriste  spp.     (2)  Carson  ;  (4)  Batoka  country,  Kirk. 
Strobilunthes  s^.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Phaylopsis parvijlofa,  Willd.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Chiradzulu,  Whyte. 
Phaylopsis  sp.     {Micranthus  Poggei^  Lindau).     (i)  Chiradzulu,  Whyte. 
Blepharis  serrulata^  Ficalho  et  Hiern.     (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 

B.  iongi/oiiay  Lindau.    (i)  Buchanan. 
Blepharis  %^^.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Nutt. 

Crossandra   Greenstockii,   S.   Moore,      (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller;    Mlanje,  Whyte  and 
McClounie  ;   Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot ;  Buchanan. 

C,  nilotica^  Oliv.    (2)  Tanganyika  and  Mweru,  Carson. 

C. puberuhiy  Klotzsch.     (i)  Lower  Shire  Valley,  Meller  and  Kirk  ;  Mafianja  hills,  Meller; 

Buchanan. 
Crossandra  sp.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Barleria  Kirkii^  T.  Anders,     (i)  Buchanan. 
B,  calophyl/oideSy  Lindau.     (i)  Nutt. 
B.  Prioniiis,  L.     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Meller. 


BOTANICAL   APPENDICES  263 

ACANTHACEAE. 

Barleria  spinulosa^  Klotzsch.    (i)  River  Shire,  Mellcr  and  Kirk  ;  Buchanan. 

B,  eranthemoides^  R.  Br.     (1)  Buchanan. 
Barleria  sp.    (2)  Carson  ;  Nutt. 

Crabbeanana^  Nees  (C  aovalifolia,  Ficalho  et  Hiem.)    (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 
Crabbea  sp.    (i)  Buchanan. 
Lepidagatkis  spp.     (1)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Nutt. 

Asystasia  coromandeliana^  Nees.    (1)  Zomba,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Carson. 
Asysiasia  sp.     (2)  Carson. 

Brachystephanus  africanusy  S.  Moore,     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 
Justicia  IVhytet,  S.  Moore.     (1)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 
/.  heterocarpay  T.  Anders.    (2)  Nutt. 
y.  anselliana,  T.  Anders.     (1)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 
y.  melampyrum,  S.  Moore,    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

Justicia  spp.    (i)  Buchanan  ;  Chiradzulu,  Whyte  ;  Blantyre,  Last ;  Shire  Highlands  and 
Lake  Nyasa,  Scott- Elliot ;  (2)  Nutt ;  Carson ;  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  Scott-Elliot 
Isoglossa  milanjiensisy  S.  Moore,    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 
Isoglossa  sp.    (i)  Buchanan. 

Rhinacanthus  communis,  Nees.    (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot. 
Rhinacanthus  sp.    ( 1 )  Buchanan  ;  Blantyre,  Last ;  Chiradzulu,  Whyte. 
Himantochilus  marginaius,  Lindau.     (i)  Chiradzulu,  Whyte. 
Dicliptera  sp.    (i)  Buchanan. 

Perisirophe  bicalyculata,  Nees.    (2)  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  Scott-Elliot. 
Hypoestes  verticillaris,  R.  Br.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  (2)  Carson  ;  Nutt. 
H.  phaylopsoides,  S.  Moore,    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 
H.  Rothii,  T.  Anders,     (i)  Chiradzulu,  Whyte. 
H,  latifolia,  H.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Hypoestes  spp.    (i)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Carson. 

Verbenaceae. 

Laniana   salviaefolia,  Jacq.     (i)    Buchanan;    Mlanje  and    Chiradzulu,   Whyte;    Shire 

Highlands,   Scott-Elliot;  (2)   Lower  plateau,   north  of  Lake   Nyasa,  J.  Thomson; 

Carson ;  Nutt ;  (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 
Lippia  nodiflora,  A.  Rich,    (i)  Buchanan. 
Z.  asperi/olia.  Rich,    (i)  Lower  Shire  Valley,  Meller ;  Chiradzulu,  Whyte;  (2)  Plateau, 

north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
Lippia  sp.    (2)  Carson. 
Prii'a  leptostachya,  ]}xss.    (i)  Buchanan. 
Premna  senensis,  Klotzsch.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Premna  sp.    (i)  Buchanan. 

Holmskioldia  tettensis,  Valke.     (i)  Banks  of  Shire  River,  Kirk. 
Vitex  milanjiensisy   Britten,      (i)   Shire   Highlands,   Scott-Elliot;    Mlanje  and  Zomba, 

Whyte;  (2)  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  Scott-Elliot 
K  MombassaCy  Vatke.     (i)  Buchanan. 
V.  paludosay   Vatke.      (i)  River   Shire,  Kirk;    Buchanan;    Mafianja   hills,   Meller;   (2) 

Karonga,  L.  Scott. 
V,  Buchananiiy  Baker,     (i)  Buchanan. 

yitex  spp.    (i)  Buchanan  ;  Lake  Chilwa,  Kirk  ;  (4)  Menyharth. 
Clerodendron  tanganyikenscy  Baker.    (2)  Carson. 

C.  capitatumy   Schum.      (i)   Buchanan;    (2)  Upper  plateau,  north   of   Lake   Nyasa,  J. 

Thomson  ;   Carson. 
C.  di scalar y  Vatke.    (i)  Mlanje  and  Zomba,  Whyte. 


264  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

Verbenaceae. 

Clerodendron  lanceolatum^  Giirke.     (4)  Menyharth. 

C.  myricoides^  R.  Br.     (i)  Buchanan ;   Mlanje  and  Zomba,  Whytc ;   Shire  Highlands, 

Scott-Elliot ;   Mananja  hills,  Meller. 
C.  spinescens,  Giirke.     (i)  Maravi  country,  Kirk  ;  (2)  Carson  ;  Nutt. 
Clerodendron  spp.    (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller  ;  Lower  Shire  Valley,  Waller ;  Buchanan. 

Labiatae. 

Ocimum  suave^  Willd.    (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Last ;  Chiradzulu,  Whyte ;  (2)  Nutt. 

O.  affine^  Hochst.     (1)  Blantyre,  L.  Scott ;  Mlanje,  McClounie ;  (2)  Carson. 

Onfilamentosunty  Forsk.    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

O.  cornigerumy  Hochst.    (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 

O.  hiansy  Benth.    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

O.  bracteosum,  Benth.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Ocimum  spp.    (i)  Buchanan  ;  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot,  L.  Scott  and  K.  C.  Cameron  ; 

(2)  Upper  and  Lower  plateaux,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa. 
Acrocepkalus  callianthus,  Briquet,     (i)  Buchanan;  Chiradzulu,  Whyte;  Blantyre,  Last; 

Maiianja  hills,  Meller. 
A.  zambesiacusy  Baker,    (i)  Buchanan. 
A,  caeruleus^  Oliv.     (2)  Nutt. 
Acrocepkalus  spp.    (1)  Buchanan  ;  Mananja  hills,  Kirk  ;  (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake 

Nyasa,  J.  Thomson  ;  Carson  ;  Nutt. 
Orthosiphon  coloratus^  Vatke.    (i)  Zomba,  Whyte. 
O,  trichodony  Baker,     (i)  Buchanan. 
O,  Kirkiiy  Baker,  ined.  ex.  Britten,  in  Trans.  Linn.  Soc.  2nd  Ser.  iv.,  p.  37.    (i)  Mlanje, 

Whyte. 
O,  Cameroniy  Baker.     (2)  Carson. 

Orthosiphon  spp.     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot ;  (2)  Carson  ;  Nutt. 
Geniosporum  affinCy  Giirke.    ( 1 )  Buchanan. 
Moschosma polystachyumy  Benth.     (i)  Chiradzulu,  Whyte. 
M,    ripariumy    Hochst.      (1)    Murchison    Falls,    Meller;    Chiradzulu,    Whyte;     Last; 

Buchanan  ;   Shire  Highlands,  L.  Scott ;  (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa, 

J.  Thomson. 
Afoschosfna  sp.     ( i )  Buchanan  ;  Blantyre,  Last. 
Coleus  umbrosusy  Vatke.    (i)  Blantyre,  Descamps. 
C  leucophyllusy  Baker.     (2)  Mweru,  Carson. 
C.  punctatusy  Baker.     (2)  Mweru,  Carson. 
C.  shirensisy  Giirke  {P leciranthus  glandulosus yBnXXtXiy  non  Hook.  fil).     (i)  Buchanan; 

Zomba,  Whyte. 
Coleus  spp.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Chiradzulu,  Whyte  ;  (2)  Carson. 
Solenostemon  sp.     (i)  Blantyre,  Last ;  Chiradzulu,  Whyte. 
Aeolanthus  NyassaCy  Giirke.    (i)  Buchanan. 
A.  ukambensisy  Giirke.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Aeolanthus  spp.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Pycnostachys  parvifolia,  Baker.     (2)  Carson. 
P,  verticillatay  Baker.     (2)  Carson. 
P.  cyaneay  Giirke.    (i)  Buchanan. 
P.  pubescensy  Giirke.     (i)  Buchanan. 
P,  retzculatUy  Benth.     (2)  Carson. 

P.  urticifolia.  Hook,     (i)  Mafianja  hills,  Meller  ;  Buchanan  ;  Chiradzulu,  Whyte. 
Pycnostachys  spp.    (2)  Nutt ;  Carson. 
Plectranthus  subacauliSy  Baker.     (2)  Mweru,  Carson. 


BOTANICAL   APPENDICES  265 

Labiatae. 

Plectranthus  modestus^  Baker.    (2)  Carson. 

PL  floribundusy    N.    E.   Br. ;    var.    longipes^   N.    E.    Br.      (i)    Mana»ja    hills,    Meller ; 

Maravi  country,  Kirk ;   Buchanan ;   Shire  Highlands,  L.  Scott ;   (2)  Lower  plateau, 

north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
PL  elegansy  Britten,     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 
PL  primulinusy  Baker.    (2)  Mweru,  Carson. 
PL  sanguineus^  Britten,    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 
PL  beionicaefolius,  Baker.     (2)  Carson  ;  Nutt 

PL  densuSy  N.  E.  Br.    (2)  Higher  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
PL  tnanganjensiSy  Baker,  ined.  ex.  Britten,  in  Trans.  Linn.  Soc.  2nd  Ser.  iv.,  p.  37.    (i) 

Zomba,  Whyte. 
Plectranthus  sp.     {PL  Melleri^  Britten,  non   Baker),    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte;   Chiradzulu, 

Meller. 
Plectranthus  spp.     (i)  Shire  Valley  and  Mananja  hills,  Kirk;   Buchanan;   Last;  Shire 

Highlands,  Scott-Elliot ;  (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake   Nyasa,  J.   Thomson  ; 

Carson. 
Hoslundia  opposita^  Vahl.    (i)  Mlanje  and  Zomba,  Whyte ;   Mananja  hills,  Zomba  and 

east  end  of  Lake  Chilwa,  Meller. 
Hyptis  pectinata^  Poit.    (i)  Zomba  and  Chiradzulu,  Whyte  ;  Blantyre,  Descamps. 
CcUamintha  simensis^  Benth.    (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
Micromeria  bifloray  Benth.    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte;  (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa, 

J.  Thomson. 
Micromeria  sp.     (i)  Zomba,  Whyte. 
Elsholtzia  sp.     (2)  Carson. 

Achyrospermum  sp.    (i)  Ndirande  Mountain,  Buchanan. 
Lasiocorys  sp.    (2)  Carson. 
Leonitis pallida^  R.  Br.    (i)  Blantyre,  Descamps. 
Z.  nepetaefolia^  R.  Br.     (2)  Carson. 
L,  Leonurusy  R.  Br.    (2)  Carson. 

L.  velutina^  Fenzl.    (i)  Buchanan  ;  Descamps  ;  Mananja  hills,  Meller. 
Leonitis  spp.     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller ;  Chiradzulu,  Whyte. 
Tinnea  sp.     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Kirk  ;  Buchanan  ;  (4)  Batoka  country.  Kirk. 
Scutellaria  pauci/oliay    Baker.      (2)    Carson ;    Lower   plateau,  north    of   Lake    Nyasa, 

J.  Thomson  ;  Mweru,  Carson. 
S.  Livingstoneiy  Baker,  ined.  ex.  Britten,  in  Trans.  Linn.  Soc.  2nd  ser.  iv.  p.  37.    (i) 

Mananja  hills.  Kirk ;  Buchanan ;  Blantyre,  L.  Scott ;  Zomba,  Whyte ;  Livingstone ; 

(2)  Mweru,  Carson. 
Scutellaria  sp.     (2)  Carson. 
Stachys  aethiopica^  L.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 
Stachys  sp.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Leucas  martinicensis,  R.  Br.    (i)  Buchanan  ;  (4)  Menyharth. 
L,  Nyassae^  Giirke.     (i)  Buchanan. 

L.  milanjianay  Giirke  (Z.  glabrata,  Britten,  non  R.  Br.)    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan. 
JL  decadonta,  Giirke.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Leucas  spp.    (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller;  Buchanan;  (2)  Nutt;  Carson;  Lower  plateau, 

north  of  Laice  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson  ;  (4)  Batoka  country,  Kirk. 

Nyctagineae. 

Mirabilis  Jalapa^  L.     (i)  Shire  Valley,  Meller;  Mananja  hills,  Kirk. 
Boerhaavia  repens^  L.,  var.  ascendens,  Willd.    (i)  Buchanan. 
B.  plumbaginea^  Cav.     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot. 
B,  Burchellii,  Choisy.     (i)  Shire  Valley,  Waller. 


266  BRITISH    CENTRAL    AFRICA 

ILLECEBRACEAE. 

I  sp.     (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 

Amarantaceae. 

Celosia  argentea^  L.     (2)  Carson. 

C.  Schweinfurihii,  Schinz.    (i)  Shire  Valley,  L.  Scott. 

C.  irigynay  L.  (i)  Buchanan;  Mananja  hills,  Meller ;  Mlanje  and  Chiradzulu,  Whyte ; 
Blantyre,  Last. 

Celosia  spp.    (i)  Shire  Valley,  Kirk  ;  Buchanan. 

Amarantus  Blitum,  L.    (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot ;  Buchanan. 

A.  Thunbergiiy  Moq.    (i)  Shire  Valley,  L.  Scott 

A.  caudatuSf  L.  (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller;  Mpatamanga,  Shire  River,  Kirk  ;  (2)JNorth 
Nyasaland,  L.  Scott. 

Centema  Kirkiiy  Hook.  fil.  (i)  Lake  Nyasa,  Kirk  ;  Elephant  Marsh,  Shire  River,  L. 
Scott ;  Buchanan. 

Cyathula  cylindrica,  Moq.     (i)  Chiradzulu,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan. 

C.  ghbuli/era,  Moq.  (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller  ;  Buchanan  ;  Chiradzulu,  Whyte  ;  Mpata- 
manga, on  Shire  River,  Kirk. 

Pupalia  lappacea^  Moq.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Aerua  lanatay  Juss.     (i)  Buchanan. 

A.  javanica^  Juss.  (i)  Shire  Highlands,  and  throughout  the  Mananja  and  Shire  hills, 
Buchanan,  Meller  and  L.  Scott. 

Psilotrichum  spp.     (i)  Blantyre,  Buchanan  and  Last ;  Chiradzulu,  Whyte. 

Achyranthes  aspera,  L.  (i)  Blantyre,  Descamps  ;  Chiradzulu,  Whyte  ;  (2)  Carson  ;  var. 
argentea,  Lam.     (2)  Chiradzulu,  Whyte. 

Achyranthes  sp.     (2)  Carson. 

Aliemanthera  sessilis^  R.  Br.   (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot ;  (2)  North  Nyasa,  L.  Scott. 

A,  twdtfloray  R.  Br.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Chenopodiaceae.  • 

Chenopodium  Botrys^  L.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  var.  C, procerum^  Hochst.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Phytolaccaceae. 

Phytolacca  abyssinica^  Hofifm.     (i)  Chiradzulu,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan. 

Polygonaceae. 

Oxygonum  atriplici/olium,  Baker   {Centogonu?n   atrip licifolium^   Meisn.),  var.   O,  sinu- 

aiufn,  Engl,     (i)  Lake  Chilwa,  Kirk. 
Polygonujn  Poiretii,  Meisn.    (i)  Chiradzulu,  Whyte. 
P.  plebeium,  R.  Br.     (i)  Buchanan. 

P.  senegalense^  Meisn.     (i)  Banks  of  Shire  River,  Kirk  ;  (2)  North  Nyasa,  L.  Scott. 
P.  tomentosum,  Willd.     (i)  Buchanan. 

P.  serrulaturn,  Lag.     (i)  Zomba,  Whyte ;  (2)  Lake  Nyasa,  L.  Scott. 
P.  barbatum^  L.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Lake  Nyasa,  Scott-Elliot. 
P.  tristachyum^  Baker,     (i)  Buchanan. 
P.  glabrum,  Willd.     (i)  Upper  Shire,  Scott-Elliot. 
P.   lanigerum,   R.   Br.     (i)    Upper    Shire,  Scott-Elliot;    Lower    Shire   Valley,    Meller; 

Lake  Chilwa,  Buchanan  ;   Shire  Highlands,  K.  C.  Cameron. 
P.  lapaihifoliuin^  L.     (i)  Lower  Shire  Valley,  Meller. 
P.  alatum^  Hamilt.     (i)  Buchanan. 
P.  strigosuffiy  R.  Br.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Riimex  nepalensis^  Spreng.     (i)  Buchanan. 

A',  abyssinicus^  J^cq.     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  K.  C.  Cameron  ;  Buchanan. 
R.  maderensis,  Lowe.     (2)  Carson  ;  Higher  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 


BOTANICAL   APPENDICES  267 

PODOSTEMACEAE. 

Hydrosiachys  polymorpha^  Klotzsch.    (i)  Tributary  of  Shire  to  north-east  of  Katunga, 

Kirk;   Blantyre,  Last;   Buchanan. 
Sphaerothylax  sp.    (i)  Blantyre,  Last. 

PiPERACEAE. 

Piper  capense,  L.  fil.    (i)  Chiradzulu  and  Zomba,  Whyte;  Buchanan. 

Peperomia  reflexa,  Dietr.    (i)  Mlanje,  McClounie  and  Whyte;  Zomba,  Whyte;  Buchanan. 

Lauraceae. 

Cassytha  guineensis^  S.  et  T.    (i)  Buchanan. 

Proteaceae. 

Protea  Nyasae,  Rendle.    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

P.  abyssinica,  Willd.    (i)  Blantyre,  L.  Scott;  Buchanan;  (2)  Nutt ;  (4)  Batoka  country. 
Kirk. 

Protea  spp.     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller;  Buchanan;  Katunga,  Kirk;  (2)  Higher  plateau, 

north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
Faurea  speciosa^  Welw.    (i)  Buchanan  ;  Zomba,  Whyte. 
Faurea  sp.     (i)   Chiradzulu,  Meller;   near   Chiradzulu,  Kirk;    Buchanan;    (4)   Batoka 

country,  Kirk. 

Thymelaeaceae. 

Arthrosolenflavus^  Rendle.     (1)  Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  Blantyre,  L.  Scott ;  (2)  Nutt. 

A.  glaucescenSf  Oliv.     (2)  Carson. 

ArthrosoUn  spp.     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Kirk  and  Meller  ;  Last ;  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Nutt. 

Gnidia  Buchananii,  Gilg.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Chiradzulu  and  Mafianja  hills,  Meller. 

G.  microcephala,  Meisn.     (i)  Mlanje  and  Zomba,  Whyte;  Zomba  and  east  end  of  Lake 

Chilwa,  Meller. 
G,  apiculatay  Gilg.     (i)  Buchanan. 
G.  fastigiatay  Rendle.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 
Gnidia  spp.     (i)  Foot  of  Chiradzulu,  Kirk;  Blantyre,  L.  Scott;  Sochi,  Kirk;  Buchanan; 

(2)  Carson  ;  Upper  and  Lower  plateaux,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson  ;  Nutt. 
Lasiosiphon  spp.     (i)  Buchanan;  (2)  Lower  plateau, north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson  ; 

(4)  Batoka  country.  Kirk. 
Peddiea  longipedicellata,  GWg.    (i)  Buchanan. 

Loranthaceae. 

Loranihiis  mweruensis,  Baker.     (2)  Mweru,  Carson. 

Loranthus  spp.     (i)  Lower  Shire,  Meller;  Zomba,  Kirk;  Buchanan;  (2)  Lower  plateau, 
north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson  ;  Carson. 

Santalaceae. 

Thesium  nigricans ^  Rendle.     (i)  Mlanje  and  Zomba,  Whyte. 

T.  whyteanum^  Rendle.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

Thesium  spp.     (i)  Foot  of  Chiradzulu,  Kirk  ;  Blantyre  and  Matope,  L.  Scott ;  Buchanan  ; 

Mlanje,  McClounie  ;  (4)  Batoka  country.  Kirk. 
Colpoon  sp.     ( I )  Buchanan. 
Osyridocarpus  scandens,  Engl,     (i)  Katunga,  Kirk. 

Euphorbiaceae. 

Euphorbia  scordi/o/ia,  ]2iC(\.  (i)  Buchanan. 

E.  sambesiacay  Benth.     (i)  Mlanje,  McClounie  ;  Buchanan  \  Zomba  and  east  end  of  Lake 

Chilwa,  Meller  ;  (2)  Mweru,  Carson. 
E.  Grantiiy  Oliv.     (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 


268  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

• 
EUPHORBIACEAE. 

Euphorbia  whyteanay  Baker  fil.    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyle, 

E,  shtrensisy  Baker  fil.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

E.  indica^  Lam.     (4)  Menyharlh. 

Euphorbia  spp.      (i)   Above  Elephant  Marsh  and  Murchison  Falls,  Shire  River,  and 

Mananja  hills,  Meller  ;  Katunga,  Kirk  ;  west  shore  of  Lake  Nyasa,  Kirk  ;  Buchanan ; 

(2)  Karonga,  L.  Scott ;  Carson. 
Synadenium  Grantii^  Hook.  fil.     (4)  Menyharth. 
Synadenium  sp.     (2)  Carson. 
Bridelia  vticrantha^  Baill.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Bridelia  sp.     (i)  Zomba,  Kirk  ;  Buchanan  ;  (4)  Menyharth. 
Phyllanthus  nummulariaefoliuSy  Poir.     (i)  Blantyre,  Last. 
P,  leucanthusy  Pax.     (i)  Buchanan. 

P,  maderaspatensis,  L.    (i)  Above  Elephant  Marsh,  on  River  Shire,  L.  Scott. 
P,  hystcracanthuSy  Muell.-Arg.     (i)  West  shore  of  Lake  Nyasa,  Kirk. 
P.  rotundifoliusy  Willd.      (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte;  var.  leucocalyx,  Muell-Arg.     (i)   Mlanje, 

Whyte. 
Phyllanthus  spp.     (i)  Buchanan;  Blantyre,  L.  Scott;  Mlanje,  Whyte;  (2)  Karonga,  L 

Scott ;  Carson  ;  Nutt ;  (4)  Menyharth. 
Securinega  obovata^  Muell.-Arg.     (4)  Menyharth. 
Uapaca  nitida,  Muell.-Arg.     (4)  Batoka  country.  Kirk. 
U,  kirkiana,  Muell.-Arg.     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Kirk  ;  Buchanan. 
Uapaca  spp.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Antidesma  spp.     (i)  Shire  River,  Kirk  ;  Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan. 
Jatropha  Curcas,  L.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Mlanje,  McClounie  ;  (4)  Menyharth. 
Jatropha  sp.     (2)  Carson. 
Croton  macrostachyusy  Hochst     (i)  Buchanan. 
Croton  spp.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  (4)  Menyharth. 

Cluytia  richardiana^  Muell.-Arg.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Chiradzulu,  Whyte. 
Cluyiia  sp.    (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
Caperonia  spp.     (i)  Blantyre,  Last ;  Buchanan. 
Cephalocroton  sp.    (i)  Buchanan. 

MifTococca  Mercurial  is,  Benth.     (i)  Elephant  Marsh,  on  Shire  River,  L.  Scott. 
Acalypha  benguelensis,  Muell.-Arg.     (i)  Mlanje  and  Zomba,  Whyte. 
A,    villicaulisy  A.    Rich,      (i)    Mananja   hills,    Meller;    Mlanje   and   Zomba,   Whyte; 

Buchanan ;   (2)  Carson. 
A,  pHosiachya,  Hochst.     (i)  Mpatamanga,  on  Shire  River,  Kirk  ;  Buchanan  ;  Chiradzulu, 

Whyte  ;  (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
Acalypha  spp.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Alchornea  sp.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Neoboutinia  africana,  Muell.-Arg.     (l)  Zomba,  Whyte. 
Mallotus  Melleriy  Muell.-Arg.     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller;  Buchanan. 
Macaranga  spp.    (i)  Buchanan. 

Ricinus  communisy  L.    (1)  Lower  Valley  of  Shire,  Meller. 
Tragia  mitis,  Hochst.     (4)  Menyharth. 
Tragia  sp.     (i)  Shire  River  above  Elephant  Marsh,  L.  Scott. 
Dalechampia  sp.    (1)  Lower  Shire  River,  Kirk  ;  (4)  Menyharth. 
Maprounea  sp.     (4)  Batoka  country,  Kirk. 
Excoecaria  sp.    (i)  Buchanan. 

Urticaceae. 

Trema  spp.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Mananja  hills,  Meller  and  Kirk. 
Dorstenia  Buchananii,  Engler.     (i)  Buchanan. 


BOTANICAL    APPENDICES  269 

Urticaceae. 

Dorsienia  WcUleri^  Hemsl.    (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller  ;  Buchanan. 

Dors  tenia  spp.    (i)  Buchanan. 

Ficus  capreaefolia^  Del.     (i)  Island  in  River  Shire,  near  Mbenje,  L.  Scott. 

Ficus  spp.     (i)   Katunga,   Shire  Valley,   L.   Scott;    Buchanan;    Kankanje,  Kirk;    (2) 

Karonga,  L.  Scott. 
Treculia  sp.    (i)  West  shore  of  Lake  Nyasa,  Kirk. 
Myrianthus  sp.    (i)  Buchanan. 
Urtica  sp.    (i)  Chiradzulu,  Whyte. 
Fleurya  aestuans,  Gaudich.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Fleurya  sp.    (i)  Shire  Valley,  L.  Scott ;  (4)  Menyharth. 
Urera  sp.    (i)  Buchanan. 

Girardinia  heterophylla^  Dene,     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Mananja  hills,  Waller  ;  Chiradzulu,  Kirk. 
Girardinia  sp.    (i)  Buchanan. 
Pilea  sp.    (i)  Buchanan.    . 

Boehmeria platyphylla^  Don.    (i)  Chiradzulu,  Whyte ;  Buchanan. 
Boehmeria  sp.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Pousohia  sp.    (i)  Buchanan. 
Pipturus  sp.    (i)  Buchanan. 

Myricaceae. 

Myrica pilulifera^  Rendle.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 
Myrica  spp.    (i)  Buchanan. 

CER  ATOPH  Y  LLE  AE. 

Ceratophyllum  sp.     (i)  Blantyre,  Last ;  Lake  Nyasa,  Laws. 

Hydrocharidaceae. 

Lagarosiphon  Nyassae,  Ridley,     (i)  Lake  Nyasa,  Laws. 

Vallisneria  spiralis,  L.     (i)  Lake  Nyasa,  Laws. 

Ottelia  spp.     (i)  Luangwa,  west  shore  of  Lake  Nyasa,  Kirk ;  Blantyre,  Last. 

Burmanniaceae. 

Burmannia  bicolor.  Mast,  var.  africana,  Ridley.     (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa, 
J.  Thomson. 

Orchidaceae. 

Liparis  Bowkeri,  Harv.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Megaclinium  Melleri,  Hook.  fil.     (i)  Chiradzulu,  Meller  ;  Mlanje,  McClounie. 

Eulophia  caliickroma,  Rchb.  fil.     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller  and  Kirk  ;  Zomba,  Meller. 

£.  Nyasae,  Rendle.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

E.  aristata,  Rendle.    (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott- Elliot. 

E. praestansy  Rendle.    (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot. 

E.  milanjiana,  Rendle.     (1)  Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  Mananja  hills,  Meller  ;  Buchanan. 

E,  missioniSy  Rendle.     (i)  Mlanje,  Scott-Elliot. 

E.  Shupangae,  Kranz.     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Kirk  and  Waller  ;  Blantyre,  L.  Scott ;  Zomba, 

Buchanan. 
E.  longesepala,  Rendle.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 
E.  venulosa^  Rchb.  fil.  {E,  httmilis,  Rendle).     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller;  Shire  Highlands, 

Scott-Elliot. 
Eulophia    spp.      (i)    Mananja    hills,   Kirk,   Meller    and    Waller;    Mlanje,  McClounie; 

Buchanan  ;  (2)  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau, J.  Thomson  and  H.  H.Johnston  ;  Carson  ; 

Nutt ;  (4)  Sesheke,  Holub. 
Cyrtopera  IValleri,  Rchb.  fil.     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Waller  ;  Buchanan. 


270  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

Orchidaceae. 

Lissochilus  microceras,  Rchb.  fil.    (i)  Sochi,  Kirk  ;  Mananja  hills,  Meller. 

L,  heteroglossus^  Rchb.  fil.    (i)  Upper  Shire  Valley,  Kirk. 

L.  gradlior^  Rendle.     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot. 

L.  livingsionianus^  Rchb.  fil.    (i)  Mananja  hills.  Waller  and  Meller;  Mlanje,  Whyte  and 

McClounie ;  between  Matope  and  Blantyre,  L.  Scott. 
Z.  arenarius^  Lindl.     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Kirk  and  Meller ;  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-EUiot  ; 

Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan  ;  (2)  North  of  Lake  Nyasa,  L.  Scott ;  Carson. 
L,  Sandersoniy  Rchb.  fil.    (i)  Buchanan. 

L.  papilionaceus^  Rendle.     (2)  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  Scott- Elliot. 
L,  Krebsiiy  Rchb.  fiL     (i)  Mlanje,  McClounie. 
L,  shirensisy  Rendle.     (i)  Sochi,  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot 
Z.  calopterus,  Rchb.  fil.     (i)  Lower  Shire  Valley,  L.  Scott. 
Z.  Wakefieldii,  Rchb.  fil.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 
Z.  dispersus^  Rolfe.     (i)  Livingstonia  (Collector  not  known). 
Z.  brevisepalusy  Rendle.    (i)  Sochi  and  Ndirande,  Scott-Elliot. 
Z.  milanjianus,  Rendle.    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  Mananja  hills,  Meller  ;  Buchanan. 
Lissochilus  spp.    (i)  Buchanan;  Mananja  hills,  Waller ;  (2)  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau, 

Carson  and  J.  Thomson  ;  Mweru,  Carson. 
Polystachya  imbricata,  Rolfe.     (i)  Buchanan. 
P,  Buchanani^  Rolfe.    (i)  Buchanan. 
P.  shirensis^  Rchb.  fil.    (i)  Shire  River,  Meller. 
P.  zambesiaca^  Rolfe.     (i)  Buchanan. 
P,  lawrenceana^  Kranz.     (i)  Buchanan. 
P,  villosa,  Rolfe.     (i)  Buchanan. 

P.  minima^  Rendle.    (i)  Sochi,  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot. 
Polystachya  spp.    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte  and  McClounie,  Zomba,  Kirk. 
Angraecum  alcicome^  Rchb.  fil.    (i)  Mlanje ;  McClounie ;  Shire  River,  Kirk. 
A,  chiloschistae^  Rchb.  fil.     (i)  Shire  Valley,  Kirk  ;  Blantyre,  Last. 
A,  f negator rhizum^  Rchb.  fil.     (i)  Shire  Valley,  Kirk  and  Waller  ;  Buchanan. 
A.  verrucosum^  Rendle.    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 
Angraecum  sp.     (1)  Buchanan. 
Pogonia  spp.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Sienoglotiis  s^.    (i)  Buchanan. 

Holothrix  Johnstonii^  Rolfe.     (i)  Mlanje,  McClounie  ;  Zomba,  Whyte. 
Holothrix  sp.    (1)  Blantyre,  Last ;  (2)  Upper  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
Peristylis  hispiduta, 'R&ndie.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Hahenaria  zambesina,  Rchb.  fil.    (i)  Buchanan. 
H,  subarmatay  Rchb.  fil.     (i)  Katunga,  Kirk. 
H,  sochensisy  Rchb.  fil.     (i)  Sochi  hill,  Kirk. 

H.  Watleriy  Rchb.  fil.    (i)  Maiianja  hills  and  foot  of  Mlanje,  Kirk  ;  Blantyre,  Last. 
//. praestansy  Rendle.    (i)  Buchanan;  Blantyre,  Last. 
//,  buchananiana,  Kranz.      (i)  Buchanan;  Mananja  hills.  Waller;  Mlanje,  Scott-Elliot; 

(2)  Nutt. 
Habenaria  spp.     (i)  Carson. 
Brachycorythis  pleistophylta^  Rchb.  fil.    (i)  Buchanan;  Mlanje,  McClounie  and  Whyte; 

Sochi,  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-EUiot ;  Blantyre,  Last. 
B. pubescensy  Harv.    (i)  Mlanje,  Scott-EUiot;  Blantyre,  Last;  Buchanan. 
Brachycorythis  tenuior^  Rchb.  fil.     (i)  Blantyre,  Last ;  (2)  Nutt ;  Carson. 
Satyrium  cheirophorum,  Rchb.  fil.     (i)  Blantyre,  Last. 
S.  minax,  Rchb.  fil.    (i)  Blantyre,  Last. 
S.  Buchanani,  Rchb.  fil.     (i)  Blantyre,  Last. 


BOTANICAL   APPENDICES  271 

Orchidaceae. 

Satyrium  spp.    (i)  Mpatamanga  and  Mananja  hills,  Kirk  ;  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Carson  ;  Nutt. 
Disa  hircicomis^  Rchb.  fil.    (i)  Mananja  hills,  Kirk. 
D,  Walleri,  Rchb.  fil.     (i)  Mananja  hiUs,  Waller. 
D,  zontbaensisy  Rendle.     (i)  Zomba,  Whyte. 
D,  hamatopetalay  Rendlc.     (i)  Mlanje,  McClounie  and  Whyte. 

Disa  spp.     (i)  Buchanan;  Zomba,  Kirk;  Blantyre,  Last;  (2)  Higher  plateau,  north  of 
Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson  ;  Carson  ;  Nutt ;  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  Johnston. 

SCITAMINEAE. 

Kaempferia  atthiopica^  Benth.     (i)  Buchanan;   Mandala,  Scott-Elliot;   Mananja  hills, 

Meller ;  near  Blantyre,  L.  Scott ;  (2)  Karonga,  Carson ;  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau, 

H.  H.  Johnston. 
K.  rosea^  Schweinf.    (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot ;  Lake  Nyasa,  L.  Scott ;  Buchanan  ; 

Lower  Shire  Valley,  Kirk  ;  Shire  Valley,  Meller. 
Kaempferia  sp.     (2)  Karonga,  Carson. 
Cadalvenia  spectabilis^  Fenzl.     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-EUiot ;   Buchanan ;  Blantyre, 

Last ;  (2)  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  H.  H.  Johnston. 
Amomum  sp.    (i)  Zomba,  Kirk. 

Canna  indica,  L.,  subsp.  C  orientalis^  Roscoe.    (i)  Lower  valley  of  Shire  River,  Meller. 
Musa  Buchananiy  Baker,    (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Kirk  ;  Buchanan. 
M,  sapientuniy  L.,  var.  M.  paradisiaca^  L.     (i,  2,  and  4)  abundant 
M,  livingstonianoy  Kurk.     (i)  Lake  Nyasa,  Kirk. 

Haemodoraceae. 

Sansevieria  Kirkii^  Baker.    ( i ),  Buchanan. 

Cyanastrum  sp.    (2)  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  H.  H.  Johnston  ;  Nutt. 

ft 

IRIDACEAE. 

Moraea  zambesiaca^  Baker,    (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller ;  Sochi  and  Katunga,  Kirk ;  Zomba, 

Buchanan;  Mlanje,  McClounie;  (2)  Higher  plateau,  north  of   Lake  Nyasa,  and 

between  Nyasa  and  Tanganyika,  J.  Thomson. 
M,  angustOy  Ker.    (2)  Carson  ;  Nutt 
M,  ventricosaj  Baker.    (2)  Carson. 

M.  ThoTttsoniy  Baker.    (2)  Higher  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
M,  Carsoniy  Baker.    (2)  Carson. 
M,  iridoidesy  L.    (i)  Mpatamanga,  Kirk. 

Aristea  johnstoniana^  Rendle.    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte  and  McClounie. 
Dierama  pendula^  Baker,     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte  and  McQounie ;  (2)  Nyasa-Tanganyika 

plateau,  J.  Thomson. 
Lapeyrousia  erythrantha.  Baker.     Mananja  hills.  Waller. 
Z.  Sandersoniy  Baker,    (i)  Buchanan  ;  (4)  Menyharth. 
L,  grandiflora^  Baker,     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller  ;  Buchanan. 
Z.  holostachya^  Baker.    (2)  Carson. 

Crocosma  aurea.  Planch,     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-EUiot 
Acidanthera  bicolor^  Hochst     (i)  Buchanan. 

Gladiolus  unguiculatusy  Baker.     (2)  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  J.  Thomson  ;  Carson. 
G,  Oatesiiy  Rolfe.    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte;  Buchanan. 

G,  Thomsoniy  Baker.     (2)  Higher  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
G,  flexuosusy  Baker.    (2)  Carson. 

G,  atropurpureus,  Baker,     (i)  Mananja  hills.  Waller ;  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-EUiot. 
G.  Melleriy  Baker,    (i)  Mananja  hiUs,  Meller  and  Waller;  Katunga  and  Mpimbi,  Kirk; 

Buchanan ;  Mlanje,  Whyte. 


272  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

IRIDACEAE. 

Gladiolus  Buchanani,  Baker.    ( i )  Ndirande,  Buchanan. 

G.  gracillimus^  Baker.     (2)  Carson. 

(J.  tritonioides^  Baker.    (2)  Carson. 

G.  Hanningtoni^  Baker.     (2)  Carson  ;  Nult. 

G,  zambesiacus^  Baker,     (i)  Blantyre,  Last. 

G.  oligophlebius^  Baker.     (2)  Carson  ;  Nutt. 

G.  erectiflorusy  Baker.    (2)  Carson. 

G.  caudatus^  Baker.    (2)  Carson. 

G,  brachyandrus^  Baker.     (2)  Buchanan. 

G.  quartinianus,  A.  Rich,     (i)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Carson  ;  Nult. 

Gladiolus  spp.     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot ;  (2)  Carson. 

Amaryllidaceae. 

Hypoxis  villosa,  L.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Shire  Highlands,  L.  Scott  and  Scott-EUiot ;  Mananja 

hills,  Meller  ;  (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
H,  obtusa,  Burch.    (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot;  (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake 

Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
H,  angustifoliaj  Lam.     (1)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 
Curculigo  gallabatensiSy  Schweinf.     (2)  R.  Nsessi,  L.  Scott. 
Curculigos^.    (i)  Buchanan. 
Crinum  subcemuum^  Baker.    ( i )  Shire  River,  Kirk. 
Crinum  sp.     (4)  Menyharth. 
Buphane  disticha,  Herb,     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller;   Shire  Highlands,  Buchanan  and 

Scott-Elliot ;  (2)  between  Nyasa  and  Tanganyika,  and  upper  plateau,  north  of  Lake 

Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
Brunsvigia  Kirkii,  Baker.     (2)  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  Scott-Elliot. 
Cyrtanthus  Wehvitschii^  Hiern.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte  and  McClounie  ;  Buchanan. 
Haemanthus  multiflorusy  Martyn.     ( i )  Mananja  hills,  Meller ;  Buchanan. 
Haemanthus  sp.     (4)  Menyharth. 

Pancratium  trianthum^  Herb,     (i)  Shire  cataracts,  Kirk. 
Vellozia  splendens,  Rendle.    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte  and  McClounie. 
Vellosia  sp.    (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller ;  Zomba  and  east  end  of  Lake   Chilwa,  Kirk ; 

Shire  Highlands,  Scott-EUiot  and  Buchanan. 

Taccaceae. 

Tacca pinnatijida^  L.     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Buchanan  and  Scott-EUiot 

DiOSCOREACEAE. 

Dioscorea  Buchanani^  Benth.     ( i )  Buchanan. 
D.  prehensilis^'QtniYi,     (i)  Buchanan. 

D.  schimperiana,  Hochst.     (i)  Mpatamanga,  Kirk;  Buchanan. 
D.  dumetorum^  Pax.     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller  ;  Buchanan. 

D.  beccariana^  MarteUi,  var.  vcstita^  Pax.      (i)  Shire   Highlands,  Buchanan   and   Scott- 
EUiot. 

LiLIACEAE. 

Dracaena fragransy  Ker.-Gawl.     (i)  Chiradzulu,  Meller;  Buchanan;  Zomba,  Whyte. 

D.  ellipticay  Thunb.  et  Dallm.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Smilax  kraussiana,  Meisn.     (i)  Mananja  hiUs,  Kirk;   Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan  ;  Shire 

Highlands,  Scott-EUiot. 
Asparagus  virgatus.  Baker,     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Mlanje,  Whyte. 
A. plumosus,  Baker,     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Mlanje,  Whyte. 


BOTANICAL   APPENDICES  273 

LiLIACBAE. 

Asparagus  Paulo-gulielmi,  Solms.    (i)  Shire  Highlands,  L.  Scott. 

A, puberuluSy  Baker,    (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller. 

A,  irregularis^  Baker,     (i)  Foot  of  Chiradzulu,  Kirk. 

A,  africanus^  Lam.     (2)  Carson  ;  Nutt ;  (4)  Menyharth. 

A,  asiaticusy  L.     (4)  Menyharth. 

A,  racemosus^  Willd.     (i)  Chiradzulu,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Carson. 

A.  Buchanani^  Baker,    (i)  Buchanan. 

Asparagus  sp.    (i)  Buchanan  ;  Blantyre,  Last 

Hylonome  reticulatcL,  Webb.    ( i )  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

Kniphofia  longistyla,  Baker,    (i)  Zomba,  Kirk  ;  Buchanan. 

K,  zombensisy  Baker,     (i)  Zomba,  Buchanan. 

Aloe  Buchananiy'BzkeT.    (i)  Buchanan. 

A,  Nuttii,  Baker.     (2)  Nutt ;  Carson. 

A,  cryptopoda^  Baker.     (4)  Menyharth. 

Eriospermum  abyssinicunty  Baker,     (i)  Buchanan;  Shire  Highlands,  Scott- Elliot. 
E,  Kirkiiy  Baker,    (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Buchanan  and  L.  Scott. 
Eriospermum  sp.     (2)  Carson. 
Bulbine  alooides^  Willd.     (i)  Chiradzulu,  Kirk  and  Meller. 

B,  asphodeloidesy  Schult.  fil.      (i)    Shire    Highlands,  K.  C.  Cameron,  Scott-Elliot  and. 

Buchanan  ;  Mlanje,  McClounie. 

Anthericum  subpeiiolatum^  Baker,     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot. 

A,  Nyasae^  Rendle.    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

A.  milanjianumj  Rendle.     (1)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

A.  Cameroni,  Baker.    (2)  Carson. 

A,  nidulans^  Baker,    (i)  Chiradzulu,  Meller. 

A,  jacquinianum^  Schult.  fil.     (2)  Carson. 

Anthericum  sp.    (i)  Buchanan  ;  Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  (2)  Nutt ;  Carson. 

Chlorophytum  blepharophyllum^  Schweinf.    (i)  Zomba,  Whyte;   Fort  Johnston,  Scott- 
Elliot  ;  Buchanan. 

C  stenopeialum^  Baker,     (i)  Buchanan. 

C,  brachystachyum^  Baker.  (1)  Buchanan. 
C,  gallabatense,  Schweinf.  (i)  Buchanan. 
C,  andongense^  Baker,     (i)  Buchanan. 

C. pubiflorumy  Baker,     (i)  Buchanan. 

Chlorophytum  spp.    (2)  Carson  ;  (4)  Menyharth. 

Dasystachys  drimiopsis,  Baker,    (i)  Buchanan  ;  (4)  Menyharth. 

Dasystachys  spp.     (2)  Carson  ;  Nutt. 

Tulbaghia  alliacea^  Thunb.     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Buchanan  and  Scott-Elliot. 

Drimia  robusta^  Baker,     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte  and  McClounie. 

Drimia  sp.     (i)  Zomba,  Kirk. 

Dipcadi  longifoliumy  Baker,    (i)  Lower  Shire  River,  Meller. 

Hyacinthus  ledebourioidesy  Baker,    (i)  Zomba  and  east  end  of  Lake  Chilwa,  Meller; 

Shire  Highlands,  L.  Scott. 
Eucomis  zambesiaca^^d^itx,    (i)  Mbami,  Kirk;  Buchanan. 
Albuca  caudaia,  Jacq.    (i)  Mlanje,  McClounie  ;  Shire  Highlands,  Buchanan^  L.  Scott  and 

Scott-Elliot. 
A.  Buchanani^  Baker,     (i)  Buchanan. 
A,  Wakefieldii,  Baker.     (?  i)  Lake  Nyasa. 
Albuca  sp.     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller ;  (4)  Menyharth. 
Urginea  altissima^  Baker  {U.  maritima^  Rendle,  non  Baker),    (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller  ; 

Mlanje,  Whyte ;  Shire  Highlands,  L.  Scott  and  Buchanan ;  Mpimbi,  Kirk ;  Zomba, 

Whyte ;  (2)  Carson. 

18 


274  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

LlLIACEAE. 

Ur^nea  Nyasae,  Rendle.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte  and  McClounie ;  Buchanan. 

Urginea  spp.     (i)  Mandala,  Scott-Elliot;  (2)  Nutt. 

Scilla  rigidifolia,  Kunth.     (2)  Upper  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  and  between  Nyasa 

and  Tanganyika,  J.  Thomson. 
S,  indica^  Baker,    (i)  Shire  Highlands,  L.  Scott. 
5.  fnaesia,  Baker.     (4)  Menyharth. 
5.  Buchananif  Baker,     (i)  Buchanan. 
S.  sambesiaca^  Baker,    (i)  Buchanan  ;  (4)  Menyharth. 
Scilla  sp.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Zomba,  Whyte ;  Mlanje,  McClounie. 
Omithogalum  Eckloni^  Schlecht.      (i)   Shire   Highlands,  Buchanan  and  Scott- Elliot ; 

Mlanje,  Whyte. 
Omithogalum  sp.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Androcypnbium  melanthioideSy  Willd.     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Buchanan  and  Scott-Elliot. 
Omithoglossum glaucum,  Salisb.     (i)  Blantyre,  Last. 
Gloriosa  super  bay  L.     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Waller. 

G.  virescensy  Lindl.     (r)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot ;  (4)  Menyharth. 
G,  Carsoni,  Baker.    (2)  Carson. 

WalUria  Mackenziiy  Kirk,    (i)  Mananja  hills,  Waller ;  Buchanan. 
W.  nutans^  Kirk,     (i)  Mananja  hills.  Waller. 

Xyridaceae. 

Xyris pauciflora^  Willd.     (i)  Mlanje,  McClounie. 
Xyris  spp.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Carson  ;  Nutt. 

COMMELYNACEAE. 

Commelyna  benghalensis,  L.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  (4)  Holub. 

C.  sambesiacay  C.  B.  Clarke.     (2)  Carson. 

C.  latifolia^  Hochst.     (1)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Carson. 

C  africanuy  L.  (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott- Elliot ;  Zomba  and  cast  end  of  Lake  Chilwa, 
Meller ;  Zomba,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Carson  ;  Nutt 

C.  involucraia,  A.  Rich,     (i)  Blantyre,  L.  Scott ;  Buchanan. 

C.  Kirkiiy  C.  B.  Clarke,  (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot;  (2)  Nyasa-Tanganyika 
plateau,  J.  Thomson. 

C,  Forskalaei,  Vahl.     (4)  Holub. 

C  Bainesii,  C.  B.  Clarke,  var.  glabrata,  Rendle.    ( i )  Zomba,  Whyte. 

C.  Vogelii^  C.  B.  Clarke,    (i)  Buchanan. 

C,  Welwitschii,  C.  B.  Clarke,     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot 

C.  nudiflora,  L.     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott- Elliot 

C  subulatoy  Roth,     (i)  Buchanan. 

C.  albescens,  Hassk.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

Commelyna  sp.     (2)  Carson  ;  Nutt. 

Aneilema  sinicum^  Lindl.     (i)  Buchanan;  Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  (2)  Nutt ;  Carson. 

A.  aequinoctiale,  Kunth.  (i)  Buchanan;  Chiradzulu,  Meller;  Shire  Highlands,  Scott- 
Elliot;  Mlanje  and  Zomba,  Whyte;  var.  Kirkii,  C.  B.  Clarke,  (i)  Buchanan;  var. 
adhaerens,  C.  B.  Clarke,     (i)  Mananja  hills,  H.  Waller. 

A.  pedunculosum,  C.  B.  Clarke.     (4)  Menyharth. 

A.  lanceolatum,  Benth.     (i)  Buchanan. 

A,  dregeanum^  Kunth.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Cyanotis  lanata,  Benth.     (2)  Carson;  var.  Schiveinfurthiiy  C.  B.  Clarke,     (i)  Buchanan. 

Cyanotis  sp.     (2)  Nutt 

Floscopa  rivularisy  C.  B.  Clarke.    (2)  Nutt. 

F.  glomerata,  Hassk.   (i)  Buchanan ;  Zomba,  Whyte;  (2)  Carson  ;  (4)  Victoria  Falk,  Kirk. 


BOTANICAL   APPENDICES  275 

Palmae. 

Elaeis guineemiSy  L.     (i)  West  shore  of  Lake  Nyasa,  Kirk. 

Borassus flabellifer^  L.,  var.  Aethiopum,  Mart,     (r)  Lower  Shire  and  Lake  Nyasa,  Kirk. 

Raphia  vinifera,  P.  de  Beauv.     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Kirk. 

Hyphaene  crinita,  Gaertn.     (i)  Along  the  Shire  River  and  at  south  end  of  Lake  Nyasa, 

Kirk. 
H.  ventricosay  Kirk.     (4)  Victoria  Falls,  Kirk. 
PhcBnixs^.    (i)  Matope,  Scott-Elliot ;  (4)  Central  regions,  Kirk. 

Typhaceae. 

Typha  angustifolia^  L.     (i)  Shire  River,  below  Katunga,  L.  Scott. 
Typha  sp.     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller. 

Aroideae. 

Stylochiton  spp.    (4)  Menyharth. 

Amorphophallus  spp.    (2)  Nsese  River,  North  Nyasa,  L.  Scott ;  (4)  Menyharth. 

Gonatopus  Boiviniif   Hook.   fil.     (i)   Lower  Shire  Valley,   Kirk;    Mlanje,   McClounie ; 

Buchanan. 
Gonatopus  sp.     (4)  Menyharth. 

Alismaceae. 

Limnophyton  obtusifoliuftiy  Miq.     (2)  Mweru,  Carson. 

Naiadaceae. 

Potamogeton  pectinatus^  L.     (i)  South-western  bay  of  Lake  Nyasa,  Kirk;  Livingstonia, 

Laws. 
P,  obtusifoliusy  Mert.  et  Koch,     (i)  Zomba,  Whyte. 
P.  longifoliusy  Gay.     (i)  South-western  bay  of  Lake  Nyasa,  Kirk. 
P,  crispusy  L.     (i)  Ruangwa,  Lake  NyaJsa,  Kirk. 

Eriocaulaceae. 

Eriocaulon  sonderianumy  Kom.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

Eriocaulon  spp.    (i)  Mananja  country  and  Katunga,  Kirk ;  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Lower  plateau, 
north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson  ;  Nutt. 

Restiaceae. 

I  sp.     (i)  Mlanje,  McClounie. 

Cyperaceae. 

Pycreus flavescensy  Nees.     (2)  Nsese  River,  North  Nyasa,  L.  Scott. 

P.  nigricans^  C.  B.  Clarke,     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan. 

P,  macranthus,  C.  B.  Clarke,     (i)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Nutt. 

P,  Mundtii,  C.  B.  Clarke,     (i)  Buchanan. 

P,  sulcinux,  C.  B.  Clarke.     (2)  Umbaka  River,  North  Nyasa,  L.  Scott. 

P,  capillaris,  Nees.     (i)  Buchanan. 

P,  umbrosus,  Nees.     (2)  Carson. 

P.  spissiflorusj  C.  B.  Clarke.     (2)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

P.  aibofnarginatusy  Nees.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Juncellus  alopecuroides^  C.  B.  Clarke,     (i)  Buchanan. 

y.  laevigatus,  C.  B.  Clarke,     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller. 

Cyperus  nudicaulis,  Poir.     (i)  Lower  Shire  River,  Kirk. 

C,  compactuSj  Lam.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Nutt. 

C.  angolensisy  Boeck.  {Rhynchospora  ochrocepkalaf  T^otok.)     (1)  Mlanje,  Whyte;  Zomba, 

Kirk ;  (2)  Nutt. 
C.  maKgariiaceuSf  Vahl.     (i)  Buchanan ;  (2)  Carson;  (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 


276 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


Cyperaceae. 

Cyperus  amabilis^  Vahl.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 

C,  ienaxy  Boeck.     (i)  Buchanan. 

C.  Haspan^  L.     (2)  Karonga,  L.  Scott. 

C  sphaerospertnus^  Scbrad.    (4)  Victoria  Falls,  Kirk. 

C.flabelliformis^  Rottb.     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller;  Great  Elephant  Marsh,  Shire  River, 

L.  Scott ;  Buchanan. 
C.  sexangulariSy  Nccs.     (4)  Menyharth. 
C  Deckeniif  Boeck.     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot. 
C.fischerianus^  Hochst.     (i)  Chiradzulu,  Meller;  Buchanan. 
C,  ^laucophyllus^Y^otck.     (i)  Buchanan. 
C,  longi/oliusy  Poir.     (i)  Buchanan. 

C  aristatusy  Rottb.    (i)  Buchanan  ;  (3)  Serpa  Pinto  ;  (4)  Menyharth. 
C  distans^  L.  fil.     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot ;  (2)  Carson. 
C.  articulatus^  L.    (i)  Elephant  Marsh,  Shire  River,  L.  Scott. 
C  schweinfurthianus^  Boeck.     (2)  Carson. 
C  maculatus^  Boeck.     (i)  Buchanan;  (2)  Umbaka  and  Nsese  Rivers,   North   Nyasa, 

L.  Scott. 
C  roiundusy  L.     (i)  Lower  Shire  Valley,  Kirk ;  (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 
C  escuieniuSf  L.    (i)  Buchanan. 
C.  radialus,  Vahl.     (i)  Great  Elephant  Marsh,  Shire  River,  L.  Scott ;  (2)  Umbaka  River, 

North  Nyasa,  L.  Scott. 
C.  zambesiensis^  C.  B.  Clarke,  ined.  in  Trans.  Linn.  Soc.  2nd  Sen  iv.,  p.  53.      (i)  Mlanje, 

Whyte  ;  Buchanan. 
C.  exaltatuSy  Retz,  var.  C  dives ^  Del.      (i)    Buchanan;   Lower   Shire  Valley,  Meller; 

Elephant  Marsh,  Shire  River,  Kirk  and  L.  Scott. 
Cyperus  spp.     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller;   Shire  Highlands,  Scott- Elliot ;  (2)  Umbaka 

River,  North  Nyasa,  L.  Scott  ;  (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 
Mariscus  color atus^  Nees.     (i)  Buchanan. 
M,  vesHtus,  C.  B.  Clarke,    (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot. 
M.  sieberianus^  Necs.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Blantyre,  Last;  Mlanje,  Whyte. 
M.  hemisphaericusy  C.  B.  Clarke,     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Mandala,  Scott-Elliot ;  Blantyre,  Scott ; 

Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  Lower  Shire  Valley,  Meller. 
M.  squarrosus,  C.  B.  Clarke,     (i)  Buchanan. 
Mariscus  sp.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 
Kyllinga  pungensy  Link.     (2)  Karonga,  L.  Scott. 
K,  elaiior,  Kunth.     (i)  Buchanan. 
IC.  alba,  Nees.     (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 

K.  auraia,  Nees.    (2)  Nsese  River,  North  Nyasa,  L.  Scott. 
Kyllinga  sp.  {Cyperus  albiceps,  Ridley).     (2)  Nsese  River,  North  Nyasa,  L.  Scott. 
Kyllinga  s^.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Eleocharis  sp.     (4)  Victoria  Falls,  Kirk. 

Fimbristylis  dichotoma,  Vahl.     (2)  Karonga  and  River  Nsese,  North  Nyasa,  L.  Seott. 
F,  dip/tylla,  VahL     ( i )  Buchanan. 
F,  exilis,  Roem.  et  Sch.    (r)  Buchanan. 
F.  africana,  C.  B.  Clarke,      (i)    Mananja   hills,    Meller;   Buchanan;   Shire  Highlands, 

Scott-Elliot. 
F.  zambesiaca,  Dur.  et  Schinz.       (i)  Sochi,  Kirk;   Blantyre,  L.  Scott;   Kampala,  Shire 

Highlands,  Scott-Elliot. 
Bulbostylis  schoenoides,  C.  B.  Clarke,     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 
B,  cinnamomeay  Dur.  et  Schinz.     (i)  Buchanan. 
B.  sphaerocarpusy  C.  B.  Clarke.     (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 
B.  capillaris^  Kunth.     (i)  Blantyre,  Last. 


BOTANICAL   APPENDICES  277 

Cyperaceae. 

Bulbostylis  fiusilluj  Dur.  et  Schinz.    (2)  Nutt. 

B.  Burchellii,  Dur.  et  Schinz.     (i)  Blantyre,  Last ;  (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 

B.  abortiva^  Dur.  et  Schinz.    (i)  Buchanan. 

B,  oritrephes,  C.  B.  Clarke,     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

Bulbosiylis  si^^»    (i)  Buchanan. 

Scirpus  articulatuSy'L.    (i)  Buchanan. 

S,  littoralis,  Schrad.    (i)  West  shore  of  Lake  Nyasa,  Kirk  ;  Zomba  and  east  end  of  Lake 

Chilwa,  Meller. 
S,  maritimusy  L.    (i)  Lower  Shire  River,  Kirk  and  Meller. 
S.  costatuSi  Boeck.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

Fuirena pubescensy  Kunth,  var.  Buchanani^  C.  B.  Clarke,    (i)  Buchanan  ;  (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 
F.  Welwitschii,  Ridley,    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  (2)  Nutt. 
F,  umbellata,  Rottb.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Mbami,  near  Blantyre,  Kirk. 
Fuirena  sp.    (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 

Lipocarpha  argeniea,  R.  Br.     (2)  Nkonde  country.  North  Nyasa,  L.  Scott. 
L,  albiceps^  Ridley,    (i)  Mandala,  Scott-Elliot ;  Buchanan. 
L. pulcherrima^  Ridley,    (i)  Buchanan. 
Ascolepis  protea^  Welw.,  var.  bellidiflora^  Welw.      (i)  Mandala,  Scott-Elliot ;  Buchanan  ; 

(2)  Nutt. 
A,  anihemiflora,  Welw.     (2)  Carson  ;  Nutt 
A.  speciosa^  Welw.     (2)  Carson. 
A,  elata^  Welw.     (2)  Carson  ;  Nutt. 
A.  capensis,  Benth.    (i)  Buchanan ;  Mlanje,  Whyte ;  (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake 

Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
A,  brasiliensisy  Benth.    (i)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Nutt ;  Carson. 

Rynchospora  Candida^  Boeck.     {R,  adscendens,  C.  B.  Clarke),     (i)  Buchanan ;  (2)  Nutt. 
Eriospora  Oliveri^  C.  B.  Clarke,     (i)  Buchanan. 

E,  villosula^  C.  B.  Clarke,    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  Ndirande,  near  Blantyre,  Scott- Elliot. 
ScUria pulchella^  Ridley,    (i)  Buchanan. 
S.  remoiay  Ridley,    (i)  Buchanan. 

5.  ^/^^dt,  Boeck.    (i)  Buchanan  ;  Mandala,  Scott-Elliot. 
S,  hirtella^  Swartz.    (2)  Nkonde  country,  North  Nyasa,  L.  Scott. 
S,  catophylla  Dur.  et  Schinz     (i)  Buchanan. 
S,  Buchananiy  Boeck.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Shire  Valley,  Waller. 
5.  dregeanay  Kunth.     (i)  Mananja  hills.  Kirk  ;  Buchanan. 
5.  bulbifera^  A.  Rich,     (i)  Ndirande,  near  Blantyre,  Scott-Elliot. 
5.  muUispiculata,  Boeck.     (i)  Buchanan. 
5.  Tnelanomphaluy  Kunth.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Sclerla  spp.     (i)  Mananja  hills.  Kirk  ;  Buchanan. 
Carex  boryana^  Schk.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 
CVzr^rspp.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan. 

Gramineae. 

Paspalum  scrobiculatum,  L.     (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 

Panicum  sanguinale,  L.     (i)  Buchanan;  (2)  Karonga  and  Umbaka  River,  North  Nyasa, 

L.  Scott ;  (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 
P,  brizanthuffi,  Hochst.     (i)  Buchanan. 
P,  Crus-galliy  L.     (i)  Shire  Valley,  Meller;  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Umbaka  River,  North  Nyasa, 

L.  Scott ;  Carson. 
P.  colomimy  L.     (i)  Lower  Shire  Valley,  L.  Scott ;  (2)  Karonga,  L.  Scott. 
P,  indicumy  L.     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Kirk. 


278 


BRITISH    CENTRAL    AFRICA 


Gramineae. 

Panicwn  nudiglume^  Hochst.    (i)  Lower  Shire,  L.  Scott. 

P.paludosum^  Roxb.    (i)  Shire  River,  Kirk. 

P,  pectinaium,  Rendle.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  (2)  Buchanan. 

P.  ungutcuiatufPij  Trin.     ( i )  Buchanan. 

P.  insigne^  Steud.     (i)  Mafianja  hills,  Meller;    Buchanan;   Mlanje,  Whyte;  (2)  Nutt  ; 

Carson  ;  (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 
P.  plicatum,  Lam.    (2)  Carson. 
P.  milanjtanumy  Rendle.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 
P.  serratum^  R.  Br.     (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 
P,  maximum^  Jacq.     (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 
P,  nigropedatum^  Munro.  (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 
Panicum  spp.    ( i )  Shire  River  and  Maiianja  hills,  Kirk  ;  Shire  River,  Meiler ;  Mandada 

and  Shire  River,  L.  Scott  ;  Buchanan ;  (2)  Carson  ;  (4)  Batoka  country.  Kirk. 
Setaria  spp.     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Waller  ;  Elephant  Marsh,  Shire  River,  Kirk  and  L.  Scott  ; 

Buchanan ;    Blantyre,   L.   Scott ;    (2)    Umbaka  and    Nsese    Rivers,   North   Nyasa., 

L.  Scott. 
Pennisetum  Benihamii,  Steud.     (i)  Lower  Shire  Valley,  Meller. 
P.  unisetum^  Benth.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Pennisetum  sp.     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Kirk. 
Cleistachne  sp.     ( 1 )  Buchanan. 
Perotis  laiifolia^  Ait.     ( i )  Buchanan. 

Impcraia  arundinacea,  Cyr.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 
Saccharum purpuratum^  Rendle.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Mlanje,  Whyte. 
Saccharum  sp.     (i)  West  shore  of  Lake  Nyasa,  Kirk. 
Hemarthria  compressa^  R.  Br.     (i)  Lower  Shire,  L.  Scott. 
Hemarthria  sp.     (i)  Elephant  Marsh,  Shire  River,  Kirk;  Buchanan;  (2)  Nsese  River, 

North  Nyasa,  L.  Scott. 
Elionunts  argenteus,  Nees.     (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 
Rottboellia  exaltata^  L.     (i)  Lower  Shire  Valley,  L.  Scott. 

Manisuris granulans^  Sm.     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Waller  ;  near  Sochi,  Kirk  ;  Buchanan. 
Vossia procera^  Griff,     (i)  Elephant  Marsh,  on  Shire  River,  Kirk. 
Ischaemum  sp.     (4)  Victoria  Falls,  Kirk. 
Andropogon  ceresiaeformis,  Nees.     (i)  Buchanan. 
A,  squamulatus^  Hochst.     (r)  Buchanan. 
A.  schirensisy  Hochst.     (i)  Buchanan. 
A.  Sorghum,  Brot.     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Meller  ;  (2)  Nutt. 
A,  annularis,  Forsk.     (i)  Lower  Shire  Valley,  Kirk. 
A.  hirtus,  L.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 
A,  anthistirioides,  Hochst.     (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 
A,  pertusus,  Willd.,  var.  insculpius^  Hackel.    (3)  Serpa  P into. 
A.  Schoenanihus,  L.     (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 
A.  eucomusy  Nees.     (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 

A,  intermedins,  R.  Br.,  var.  punctatits,  Hackel.     (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 
A,  Nyasae,  Rendle.     (i)  Buchanan. 
A.  cymbarius,  L.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Nutt. 
Andropogon  spp.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Mbami,  near  Blantyre,  Kirk. 
Anthisiiria  ciliata,  Retz.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Anthistiria  sp.     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Kirk. 
Aristida  barbicollis,  Trin.  et  Rupr.     (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 
.  A.  vestita,  Thunb.     (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 
Aristida  spp.     (i)  Upper  Shire  Valley,  Kirk  ;  Buchanan  ;  (4)  Batoka  country.  Kirk. 


BOTANICAL   APPENDICES  279 

Gramineae. 

Sporobolus  minutijiorus,  Link,     (i)  Buchanan  ;  (4)  Holub. 

5.  leptostachys^  Ficalho  et  Hiem.    (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 

S,  indicus^  R.  Br.     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Melier. 

Sporobolus  spp.     (i)  Upper  and  Lower  Valley  of  the  Shire  River,  Kirk  ;    Buchanan  ; 

(2)  Umbaka  River,  North  Nyasa,  L.  Scott. 
Agrostis  sp.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Tristachya  decora^  Stapf.     (2)  Carson. 
T,  inamoena,  K.  Schum.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Tristachya  spp.     (i)  Blantyre,  L.  Scott ;  (2)  Carson. 
Trichopteryx  leucoihrix^  Trin.     (2)  Carson. 
Trichopteryx  sp.    (i)  Buchanan. 
Microchloa  abyssinicay  Hochst.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Triraphis  sp.     (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 
Chloris gayana,  Kunth.     (i)  Chiromo,  L.  Scott. 
C.  radiata^  Sw.     (i)  Buchanan. 
C.  petraea,  Thunb.     (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 

C.  breviseta,  Benth.    (2)  Umbaka  River,  North  Nyasa,  L.  Scott. 
Chloris  spp.     (i)  Lower  Shire  Valley,  Kirk  and  Melier. 
Harpechloa  altera^  Rendle.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Mlanje,  Whyte  and  McClounie. 
Eleusine  indica^  L.    (i)  Elephant  Marsh,  on  Shire  River,  Kirk  ;  Buchanan  ;  Katunga,  L. 

Scott ;  (2)  Umbaka  River,  North  Nyasa,  L.  Scott. 
Leptochloa  uniflora^  Hochst.     (i)  Buchanan. 
L.  chinensiSy  Nees.     (i)  Elephant  Marsh,  on  Shire  River,  Kirk. 
Leptochloa  sp.     (i)  Lower  Shire  Valley,  L.  Scott. 
Schmidtia  quinquestta^  Benth.     (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 
Triodia  sp.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Phragmites  communis,  Trin.    (i)  Lower  Shire  Valley,  Melier  ;  near  Blantyre,  L.  Scott. 
Phragmiies  sp.    (i)  Buchanan. 

Koeleria  cristata,  Pers.    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte  and  McClounie  ;  Buchanan. 
Eragrostis  namaquensis,  Nees.     (2)  Umbaka  River,  North  Nyasa,  L.  Scott. 
E.  nindensisy  Ficalho  et  Hiem.    (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 
E.  major y  Host,    (i)  Buchanan. 
E'.elata,  Munro.    (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 
E.  aspera,  Nees.    (i)  Buchanan. 
E.  gummiflua^  Nees.    (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 
E,  Lappula^  Nees.    (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 

E,  obtusa,  Munro.    (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 

Eragrostis  spp.     (i)  Mananja  hills,  Melier;   Buchanan;   Mlanje,  Whyte;  (2)  Umbaka 

and  Quaqua  Rivers,  North  Nyasa,  L.  Scott. 
Festuca  milanjiana,  Rendle.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte  ;  Buchanan. 

F.  cosiata,  Nees.    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

Bromus  milanjianus,  Rendle.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

Oxytenanthera  sp.     (i)  Mbami  and  Blantyre,  Lake  Chihva,  and  Katunga,  Kirk. 

CONIFERAE. 

Podocarpus  milanjiana^  Rendle.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

Widdringtonia  Whytei^  Rendle.    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte  and  McClounie  ;  Zomba,  Whyte. 

Gnetaceae. 

GnetuJH  africanumfV^^VN.     (r)  Buchanan. 


28o  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

CRYPTOGAMS. 
Lycopodiaceae. 

Lycopodium  dacrydioidesy  Baker,     (i)  Buchanan. 
L,  cemuufHy  L.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Selaginellaceae. 

Selaginella  versicolor ^  Spring,     (i)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Carson. 
S,  mollicepSy  Spring,    (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Buchanan. 
S,  Vogeliiy  Spring.    (2)  Carson. 

Equisetaceae. 

Equisetum  elongatum,  Willd.     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Buchanan. 

Salviniaceae, 

Azolla pinna ta^  R.  Br.    (i)  Lake  Nyasa,  Laws. 

Filices. 

Gleichenia  polypodioidesy  Sm.     (i)  Mlanje,  McClounie. 

G,  dichotomay  Hook.     (2)  Nutt. 

Cyathea  Dregei^  Kze.    (i)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Nutt. 

C.  Thontsoniy  Baker.     (2)  Lower  plateau,  north  of  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 

C.  zambesiacay  Baker,    (i)  Buchanan. 
Hymenophyllum  austraUy  Willd.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Davallia  thecifera,  H.  B.  K.     (i)  Buchanan. 

D.  SpeluncaCy  Baker.    (2)  Carson. 
Cheilanthes  Schimperiy  Kze.    (i)  Buchanan. 
C,  multijiday  Sw.    (i)  Mlanje,  McClounie. 
Pellaea  hastatOy  Link,     (i)  Buchanan. 

P.  duruy  Willd.     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot. 

F,  Calomelanosy  Link.    (3)  Serpa  Pinto. 

P,  donianay  Hook,     (i)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Carson. 

P,  pectiniformisy  Baker  ;  (2)  Nutt. 

Pteris  quadriauritay  Retz.     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-EUiot  and  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Carson. 

Pt.  biauritUy  L.     (2)  Carson. 

Pi.flabellatay  Thunb.     (2)  Carson. 

PL  creticay  L.    (i)  Buchanan. 

Pt,  atrovirensy  Willd.    (2)  Carson. 

AdiantufH  aethiopicumy  L.     (i)  Buchanan. 

A.  Capi II us- Veneris y  L.     (i)  Buchanan. 

A.  caudaiunty  L.    (i)  Buchanan. 

A,  hispidulutHy  Sw.     (i)  Buchanan. 

A,  lunulatwHy  Burm.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Carson. 

Lonchitis pubescmsy  Willd.     (2)  Nutt. 

Lo maria  boryanUyV^ iWd.     (i)  Buchanan. 

Actiniopteris  radiaiUy  Link,     (i)  Buchanan. 

Asplenium  Sandersoniy  Hook,     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Buchanan  and  Scott- Elliot. 

A,  Manniiy  Hook,     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-EUiot. 

A.  anisophyUunty  Kze.    (i)  Chiradzulu,  Whyte  ;  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-EUiot. 

A,  lunulatuniy  Sw.    (i)  Buchanan  ;  Chiradzulu,  Whyte  ;  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-EUiot. 

A^formosufHy  Willd.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Mlanje,  McClounie. 

A.  brachypterorty  Kze.     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-EUiot. 

A,  protensuttiy  Schrad.     (i)  Buchanan. 


BOTANICAL   APPENDICES  281 

FiLICES. 

Asplenium  furcatuniy  Thunb.  (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Buchanan  and  Scott-Elliot ;  (2)  Carson. 

A,  rutaefolium^  Kzc.    (i)  Chiradzulu,  Whyte. 

A,  cicutarium^  Sw.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot. 

A,  Thunbergii^  Kze.    (i)  Buchanan. 

A,  nigripesy  Blume.    (i)  Buchanan. 

A, patens^  Desv.     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot. 

A,  cordaiuffty  Forst.    (i)  Mlanje,  McClounie. 

Nephrodium  Filix-mas^  Rich.,  var.  elongatum^  H.  et  A.    (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot 

and  Buchanan. 
N. patens^  Desv.     (i)  Buchanan. 
N.  unitum^  R.  Br.     (i)  Buchanan. 
N,  molky  Desv.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Carson. 
N,  pennigerumy  Hook,    (i)  Buchanan. 
N.  cicutarium^  Baker,     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Buchanan  and  Scott-Elliot ;    Chiradzulu, 

Whyte. 
N,  cUbO'punctatum^  Desv.     (i)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Nutt ;  Carson. 
N.  athamanticum^  Hook.     (2)  Nutt. 
N.  ThelypteriSy  Desv.    (2)  Carson. 

Nephrolepis  cordifolia^  Presl.    (i)  Buchanan  ;  (2)  Carson. 
Polypodiumfissum^  Baker,    (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott- Elliot. 
P.  lanceolatum^  L.    (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-Elliot 
Acrostichum  conformed  Sw.    (i)  Buchanan. 
A,  hybridutfty  Bory.    (i)  Buchanan. 
A.  virensy  Wall.     (2)  Carson. 
Osmunda  regcUis^  L.     (2)  Nutt. 
Anemia  tomentosa^  Sw.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Mohria  vestita^  Baker,    (i)  Buchanan. 
Maratiia  fraxinea^  Sm.    (i)  Buchanan  ;  Mlanje,  McClounie. 
Ophioglossum  reticulatum^  L.    (i)  Buchanan. 

Musci. 

Polytrichum  commune^  L.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

Bryum  sp.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

Holomitrium  acutufu^  Wright,     (i)  Zomba,  Kirk. 

Dicranum  sp.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

Leucoloma  sp.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

Lepiodoniium  radicosum^  Mitt,     (i)  Buchanan. 

Erpodium  grossirete,  K.  Muell.    (4)  Menyharth. 

E.  Menyharthiiy  K.  Muell.     (4)  Menyharth. 

Pierogonium  abruptum^  Wright,     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Buchanan  ;  Chiradzulu,  Whyte. 

P.  decipiens^  Wright    (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Buchanan. 

Piloirichella  imbricatUy  Jaeg.    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

Aerobryum  capense^  K.  Muell.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

Porotrichum  dentatum^  Gepp.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

Thuidium  sp.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

Hepaticae. 

Marchanita polymorphay  L.     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Buchanan. 

Metzgeria  furcatUy  Dum.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

J/,  myriapoda^  Lindb.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

Frullania  brunnea^  Gottsche,  Lindb.  et  Nees.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 


282  BRITISH    CENTRAL    AFRICA 

Hepaticae. 

Lejeunea graciltima^  Mitt,     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

L,  decursiva^  v.  d.  Sande-Lacoste.    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

L.flavaj  Gottsche.    (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

Phrag^nicoma pappeanuy  Necs.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

Radula  sp.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

Lophocolea  sp.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

Plagiochila  Rutcnbergii^  Gottsche.     (i)  Mlanje,  Whyte. 

P.  dichotoma^  Dum.    (i)  Chiradzulu,  Meller. 

Fungi. 

Flammula penetrans^  Fr.     (i)  Lower  Shire,  Scott-Elliot. 

Schizophyllum  commum^  Fr.     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  K.  C.   Cameron  ;   Chiromo,   Lower 

Shire,  Scott-Elliot. 
Crepidotus  mollis^  Schaeff.    (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott- Elliot. 
Hexagonia polygramma^  Mont,     (i)  Buchanan 
Favolus  Rhipidium,  Berk,     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Scott-EUiot. 
Trametes Jibrosus^  Nces.     (i)  Shire  Highlands,  Last. 
7".  rigidus^  Fr.     (i)  Buchanan. 
T,pictusy  Berk,     (i)  Chiromo,  Scott-Elliot. 
Lenzites  apphinaicis  Fr.     (i)  Buchanan. 
L,  aspera,  Klotzsch.     (i)  Buchanan. 
Polyporus  scruposus,  Fr.     ( i )  Buchanan. 
P,  sanguineus^  Fr.     (i)  Buchanan. 
/*.  rw^/>,  Berk.  ?    (i)  Buchanan. 

Polysticius  occidentalism  Klotzsch.     (i)  Chiromo,  Scott-EUiot. 
Parodiella  Pentanisiae^  Sacc.     (2)  Lake  Nyasa,  J.  Thomson. 
Physalospora  BambusaCy  Sacc.     (i)  Chiradzulu,  Whyte. 
Phyllachora  Hieronymi^  P.  Henn,     (i)  Buchanan. 

Lichens.    [All  from  (4)  Boroma  (Menyharth),  except  the  last  two.] 
Leptogiopsis  Brebissoniiy  Muell.-Arg. 
Collema  furvumy  Ach. 
Pyrenopsis  robustula^  Muell.-Arg. 
Ramalina  complanata^  Ach. 

Parmelia  Hildenbrandtii^  Keplh.,  forma  nuda^  Muell.-Arg.,  forma  sorcdiosa^  Muell.-Arg. 
P.praetervisay  Muell.-Arg. 
P.  zambesica,  Muell.-Arg. 
P.  Zol lingerie  Hepp. 

P,  tiiiacea,  Ach.,  var.  scortea^  Nyl,  var.  rimulosa^  Muell.-Arg. 
Candelaria  stcliaUi,  Muell.-Arg. 

Physcia  adgluiinatay  Nyl.,  y^x,  pyreihrocardia,  Muell.-Arg. 
P,  stellarisy  Fr.,  var.  acriia,  Nyl. 
P,  ochroieuca,  MueU.-Arg. 
P.  picta^  Nyl.,  var.  sorediaia^  Muell.-Arg. 
P.  aegialita,  Nyl. 
Endo  carpi  scum  Guepini,  Nyl. 

Pyxitte  Meissncriy  Tuck.,  var.  endoleuca^  Muell.-Arg.,  var.  sorediosa,  Muell.-Arg. 
Placodium  pcrexiguum^  Muell.  Arg. 

Lecanora  subfusca,  Ach.,  var.  ailop/tana,  Ach.,  var.  ghibrata,  Ach.,  var.  cinerco-carKea, 
Tuck. 


BOTANICAL   APPENDICES  283 


Lichens. 

Lecanora  hypocrocina^  Nyl. 

L,  caesio-rubella^  Ach. 

L,  pailescens,  Fr. 

Lecania  punicea^  MucU.-Arg. 

Callopisma  cinnaharinum^  Muell.-Arg.,  var.  opacum^  Muell.-Arg. 

C.  sambesicum^  MueU.-Arg. 

C.Jlavum^  Muell.-Arg. 

Rinodina  conspersa^  Muell.-Arg. 

Pertusaria  velata^  Nyl. 

P.  xanthothelia,  Muell.-Arg. 

P.  mamillana^  Mudl.-Arg. 

Lecidea  russuia,  Ach. 

Z.  mutabiliSy  F^e. 

Z.  impressa^  Keplh. 

Patellaria  leptolyiray  Muell.-Arg. 

Blastema  poliotet'a,  Muell.-Arg. 

Buellia  parasema^  Korb.,  var.  disciformis^  Th.  M.  Fries,  var.  vulgata^  Th.  M.  Fries. 

B,  africana^  Muell.-Arg. 

B.  olivacea,  Muell.-Arg. 

B.  inquilinay  Tuck. 

Opegrapha  Menyharthii^  Muell.-Arg. 

Arthonia  dispersa,  Nyl. 

Mycoporum  pycnocarpum^  Nyl. 

Placothelium  staurothelioides,  Muell.-Arg. 

Trypethelium  Eiuteriae,  Sprgl. 

Lepra  citrina^  Schaer. 

Usnea  barbaia,  Ach.,  var.  ceratina^  Schaer.     (2)  Carson. 

Physcia  speciosa,  Ach.,  var.  hypoleuca^  Nyl.     (2)  Carson. 

Algae.    [All  from  (i  ?)  Lake  Nyasa  (Laws),  except  the  first.] 
Char  a  sp.     (2)  Carson. 
Conferva  sp.  ? 
Bulbochaete  parvula,  Ktz. 
Spirogyra  pallida y  Dickie. 
Cosmarium  margaritiferum,  Turp. 
Cylindrospermum  Nyassae^  Dickie. 
Lyngbya  martensiana^  Menegh.  ? 
Oscillaria  sp.  ? 
Cyclotella  rotula^  Ktz. 

C.  operculatay  Ktz. 
Epithemia  ventricosa^  Ktz. 
E,  Zebra^  Ehb. 

E.  alpestrisy  Sm. 
E,  SoreXy  Ktz. 
E,  turgida^  Ktz. 
E.  clavaia^  Dickie. 
Eunotia  trideniula^  Ehb. 
Himantidium  pectinaUy  Ktz. 
Cocconema  cymbiforme,  Ehb. 
C.  Cistula^  Hemp. 


284  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

Algae. 

Amphora  ovaiisy  Ktz. 

Eucyonema  prosiratum.  Berk. 

Cocconeis  placentula^  Ehb. 

Fragilaria  undaia,  Sm. 

Synedra  Ulna^  Ehb. 

5.  Acus^  Ktz. 

5.  biceps^  Ktz. 

Navicula  acrosphaeria^  Rabh.,  var.  sandvicensis,  Schmidt. 

N.  gibberula^  Sm. 

iV.  Gastrunty  Ebb. 

iV.  ellipiicay  Ktz. 

iV.  rhomboidesy  Ehb. 

A'',  gracillimay  Pritch. 

Siauroneis  Phoenicenierotty  Ehb. 

Diadesmis  confervaceuy  Ktz. 

Gomphonema  dichotomuniy  Ktz. 

<J.  iniricatum,  Ktz. 

(7.  naviculoidesy  Sm. 

6^.  Turrisy  Ehb. 


CHAPTER    IX. 
ZOOLOGY 

ALTHOUGH  British  Central  Africa  would  appear  to  be  a  purely  political 
and  artificial  division  of  the  continent  it  is,  as  a  matter  of  fact,  coincident 
with  a  clearly  marked  zoological  sub-region  as  far  as  its  mammalian 
fauna  is  concerned,  though  these  special  peculiarities  in  the  distribution  of  species 
are  not  quite  so  marked  in  the  birds  and  reptiles,  and  still  less  so  in  fishes  and 
invertebrates.^  These  distinctive  zoographical  features  of  British  Central 
Africa,  however,  are  rather  negative  than  positive,  and  relate  more  to  what 
the  country  does  not  possess  than  to  its  monopoly  of  peculiar  forms.  As 
a  matter  of  fact  all  British  Central  Africa  as  far  west  as  the  Upper  Zambezi, 
together  with  the  province  of  Mozambique,  the  southern  part  of  German  East 
Africa,  and  the  southernmost  districts  of  the  Congo  Free  State,  forms  a 
remarkable  break  between  South  and  East  Africa  in  the  range  of  well  known 
types  of  mammals  and  birds.  The  British  Central  Africa  sub-region  differs 
from  that  of  West  Africa  in  not  possessing  any  form  of  anthropoid  ape,  and  in 
the  absence  of  a  good  many  monkeys,  of  several  small  antelopes,  and  of  the 
interesting  Dorcatherium,  On  the  other  hand  it  agrees  with  West  Africa  in 
possessing  a  peculiar  Civet  {Nandinia\  one  or  more  genera  of  bats,  and  a 
Colobus  monkey  closely  allied  to  or  identical  with  the  common  West  African 
form.  Amongst  the  birds  which  it  shares  alone  with  West  Africa  is  the 
remarkable  black  and  white  vulturine  fishing  eagle,  Gypohierax?- 

Although  this  sub-region  possesses  much  closer  relationships  (as  might  be 
supposed  owing  to  its  geographical  position)  with  the  South  African  sub-region 
south  of  the  Zambezi,  and  the  East  African  sub-region  (north  of  the  Rufiji 
river  and  to  the  east  of  Tanganyika),  still  it  differs  from  these  two  sub-regions 
(which  are  more  closely  allied  the  one  to  the  other  than  each  is  to  British 
Central  Africa)  in  not  possessing  the  following  forms,  in  whose  distribution  the 
interposition  of  this  sub-region  under  review  causes  a  complete  break :  the 
Caracal  lynx,  the  Aard-wolf  {Proteles\  found  in  South  and  South  West  Africa 
and  in  Somaliland ;  the  long-eared  foxes,  the  mountain  zebras,  the  wild  asses, 
(to  which  group  I  consider  the  South  African  quagga  to  belong) ;  the  Otyx 
antelopes,  the  gazelles,  the  true  jerboas,  the  Orycteropiis  or  antbear,  the 
secretary  vulture,  the  typical  vultures  of  the  genera  Gyps  and  Pseudogyps,  and 
the  ostrich. 

*  Though  if  a  portion  of  Tanganyika  be  included — as  it  is  intended  to  h^ — within  the  term  **  British 
Central  Africa"  this  lake  still  more  markedly  than  Nyasa  differs  in  its  marine  fauna  from  the  other  great 
lakes  of  Africa  farther  to  the  north. 

^  I  have  seen  it  asserted  by  some  naturalists  that  Gy pokier  ax  reappears  on  Pemba  Island  near  Zanzibar 
but  this  statement  is  unsupported  by  conclusive  evidence. 

285 


286  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

To  this  list  might  almost  be  added  the  giraffe,  and  the  Damaliscus  genus  of 
antelopes,  were  it  not  that  according  to  native  report  the  giraffe  is  found  in  the 
southern  part  of  the  Senga  country  along  the  Lower  Luangwa  river  above  its 
confluence  with  the  Zambezi,  and  that  Mr.  Sharpe  believes  he  has  seen  tsessebe 
{^Damaliscus)  antelopes  a  little  to  the  north  of  the  same  region.  Still  here, 
again,  the  zoological  boundaries  of  this  sub-region  rather  coincide  with  the 
political  because  it  is  well  known  that  certa^in  South  African  forms  do  cross  the 
Central  Zambezi  and  extend  a  little  distance  to  the  north  of  its  banks,  and  this 
may,  therefore,  account  for  the  existence  of  the  giraffe  and  the  tsessdbe  in  the 
Luangwa  valley.  It  is  quite  certain,  however,  that  the  giraffe  is  found  nowhere 
in  East  Africa  south  of  the  Rufiji  river  and  between  the  Mozambique  coast  on 
the  east  and  the  Angola  coast  on  the  west.^  Neither  are  the  ostrich  nor  the  other 
antelopes  and  carnivora  mentioned  above.  Yet  all  these  forms,  either  the  same 
or  other  species  closely  allied  thereto,  reappear  north  of  the  Rufiji  river,  or  at 
any  rate  in  Somaliland  and  the  Egyptian  Sudan ;  some  of  them  even  in  the 
Western  Sudan  and  in  Senegambia.  It  is  very  curious  that  this  break  should 
occur  right  across  the  continent  as  it  cannot  be  sufficiently  explained  by  any 
reasons  of  climate  or  soil.  The  country  is  not  one  dense  impenetrable  forest 
like  parts  of  the  Congo  Basin,  nor  is  it  a  waterless  desert.  It  is  dry  enough  for 
ostriches  and  yet  not  too  dry  for  water-loving  antelopes.  It  must  be  admitted, 
however,  that  it  is  probably  too  moist  for  the  absent  animals  which  are  rather 
desert-loving  types. 

Taken  by  itself  the  British  Central  Africa  sub-region  may  be  divided  into 
two  districts,  at  any  rate  as  regards  it.s  mammalian  fauna — Nyasaland  and  the 
adjoining  countries  to  the  east ;  and  all  which  lies  between  the  watershed  of 
Nyasa  and  the  northern,  western,  and  southern  frontiers  of  the  sphere  of  British 
influence.  There  is  not  much  difference  between  the  two,  but  Nyasaland 
probably  lacks  a  few  mammalian  types  such  as  the  Situtunga  {Tragelaphus 
spekei) ;  the  Puku  and  Lechwe  antelopes  {Cobus  vardoni  and  Cobus  lechwe\ 
and  the  Cheetah ;  on  the  other  hand  the  western  division  does  not  possess  the 
grey  baboon  {Papio  pruinosus)\  the  long-nosed  Shrew  {Rhynchocyon);  a  number 
of  rodents ;  the  sable  antelope,  and  several  birds  which  are  peculiar  to  the 
mountains  of  the  Shire  districts.^ 

^  It  reaches  to  the  Ubena  country,  N.E.  of  Lake  Nyasa. 

'  I  should  be  disposed  to  divide  the  African  region  into  two  sub- regions  and  these  again  into 
certain  provinces.     They  would  stand  thus  : 

(i)  The  West  African  sub-region  (the  forest  country  of  West  Africa  from  the  Gambia  on  the  north  to 
the  Kwanza  river  on  the  south,  including  the  coast  belt  of  West  Africa  and  the  whole  Congo  basin  as  far 
as  the  west  coast  of  Tanganyika) ; 

( I  a)  The  Guinea  province  (Gambia  to  the  Volta  river) ; 

(i  b)  The  Lower  Niger  Province  (Volta  river  to  the  Cameroons  and  the  Upper  Benue) ; 
( I  c)  The  Gaboon  province  (Cameroons  to  the  Congo  mouth  and  inland  to  the  Congo  watershed) ; 
(i^)  The  Congo  province  (all  the  Congo  basin  except  in  the  extreme  south) ; 

{le)  The  Angola  province  (on  the  coast,  the  river  Loge  to  Benguela  and  inland  to  the  Congo 
watershed,  but  including  the  extreme  Upper  Zambezi). 
(2)  The  Ethiopian  sub-region  (Tropical  Arabia,  and  all  Tropical  Africa  not  included  in  the  West 
African  sub- region) : 

(2  a)  The  Sudan  province  (from  the  Senegambian  coast  on  the  west  to  the  frontiers  of  Abyssinia  on 
the  east,  with  the  Sahara  on  the  north  and  the  Congo  Basin  and  West  African  Coast  belt  on 
.   the  south) ; 
(2  b)  The  Abyssinian  province ; 
(2  c)  The  Arabian  province  ; 
(2d)  The  Somaliland  province  (bounded  by  Abyssinia,   the  Egyptian  Sudan,  the  east  coast  of 

Tanganyika,  and  the  Rufiji  river)  ; 
(2  e)  The  British  Central  African  province  ;  and 

(2/)  The  South  African  province  (bounded  more  or  less  on  the  north  by  the  Zambezi,  and  up 
the  south-west  coast  of  Africa  to  the  Angola  province). 


ZOOLOGY  287 

Monkeys  are  not  abundant  in  British  Central  Africa,  nor  are  they  numerous 
in  species.  The  most  remarkable  among  them  is  the  grey  baboon  {Papio 
pruinosus)  recently  discovered  on  the  south  coast  of  Lake  Nyasa.  The  first 
specimen  of  this  animal  was  shot  by  Dr.  Percy  Kendall,  a  medical  officer  in 
the  service  of  the  Administration.  He  was  not  at  first  much  struck  with  the 
novelty  of  the  creature's  appearance,  however,  and  had  I  not  been  passing  at 
the  time  and  observed  the  body  of  the  beast  as  it  lay  dead  on  his  verandah, 
it  might  have  been  thrown  away,  but  it  struck  me  as  being  very  remarkable  in 
the  colouring  of  its  fur,  and  I  induced  him  to  let  me  forward  it  to  the  British 
Museum,  where  it  turned  out  to  belong  to  a  new  species.  Its  fur  is  a  pale 
bluish-grey  above  and  a  dirty  white  below  and  is  well  illustrated  by  the  plate 
which  appears  in  the  Proceedings  for  April  ist,  1897,  of  the  Zoological  Society. 
The  common  yellow  baboon  is  the  other  cynocephaline  species  which  is  found 
in  the  Protectorate.  It  is  extremely  common  everywhere,^  very  bold  and  very 
cunning.  It  is  constantly  robbing  the  natives'  plantations,  and  the  women 
profess  to  go  in  terror  of  the  large  male  baboons  (which  grow  to  the  size  of  a 
big  mastiff  dog)  as  they  say  that  these  latter  will  attempt  to  outrage  them  if 
they  see  no  man  accompanying  the  party.  I  do  not  myself  believe  there  is 
any  truth  in  this  idea ;  I  think  all  the  baboons  want  to  ravish  are  the  contents 
of  the  baskets  of  food  the  women  are  carrying ;  it  is  quite  certain  that  they 
will  come  down  and  endeavour  to  rob  women  and  children  if  they  see  them 
unaccompanied  by  persons  armed  with  weapons. 

When  the  baboons  descend  to  raid  the  plantations  one  or  more  of  their 
number  (a  half-grown  baboon  generally)  invariably  stands  sentry  to  warn  the 
rest  of  the  troop  when  danger  is  approaching.  The  baboons  are  not  very  shy 
of  approach  unless  one  is  armed  with  a  gun.  Not  infrequently  when  I  have 
been  riding  alone  between  Blantyre  and  Katunga  a  number  of  baboons  have 
come  down  to  the  road  to  look  at  me  as  I  went  by  and  have  even  trotted  along 
on  the  road  in  front  of  my  horse.  On  one  occasion  their  demeanour  was 
distinctly  threatening.  Several  of  them  were  waiting  for  me  on  either  side  of 
the  road  making  hideous  grimaces  and  grunts.  They  dispersed,  however,  when 
I  rode  straight  at  them  and  showed  that  I  had  a  switch.  The  young  baboons 
become  quite  tame  after  a  few  days*  captivity  and  are  most  amusing  though  very 
impudent  pets. 

The  two  commonest  Cercopithecus  monkeys  are  the  white-throated  and  the 
red-rumped  (C  albigularis  and  C, pygerythrus).  The  Colobus  monkey  {Colobus 
palliatus)  is  the  white-thighed  species.  This  animal  is  rare  in  British  Central 
Africa,  and  is  so  far  as  I  know  only  found  in  the  high  mountains  west  and  north 
of  Lake  Nyasa.  Its  skins  are  much  valued  by  the  natives  who  use  the  long 
black  and  white  hair  to  make  capes  and  mantles  and  anklets  for  their  war 
dresses. 

The  Lemuroids  are  represented  by  the  great  Galago  ^  and  the  small  Moholi 
Galago.  The  big  species  is  a  beautiful  animal  about  the  size  of  a  cat.  The 
colour  of  the  fur  (at  any  rate  in  the  Nyasa  variety)  is  quite  a  light  whitish-grey 
and  the  tail  is  exceedingly  bushy.  This  creature  when  captured  full  grown 
is  rather  intractable  and  difficult  to  tame.  It  can  and  will  bite  savagely.  When 
brought  to  bay  it  stands  up  on  its  hind  legs  and  boxes  with  the  fore  paws, 
partly  to  repel  an  assault  and  partly  to  seize  and  bite  the  assaulter. 

^  The  yellow  baboon  {Papio  babuin)  is  found  nearly  all  over  tropical  Africa  south  of  the  Equator. 
It  is  in  some  respects  the  most  generalised  of  the  baboons. 
•  Otogak  Kirkii, 


288  BRITISH   CENTRAL   AFRICA 

The  young  of  the  great  Galago  are  exquisite  little  creatures  like  Chinchillas. 
It  would  appear  to  be  an  animal  of  rather  slow  growth,  and  the  young  are 
therefore  taken  by  Europeans  to  be  a  different  species  to  the  full  growni 
animal.^ 

There  is  not  much  remarkable  about  the  bats  of  British  Central  Africa  so 
far  as  I  am  aware.  They  have  been  chiefly  collected  by  Dr.  Percy  Rendall  who 
was  for  a  time  our  medical  officer  on  Lake  Nyasa.  Prior  to  this  Dr.  Rendall 
was  Colonial  Surgeon  at  the  Gambia.  Whilst  in  that  West  African  Colony  he 
shot  one  day  a  curious  white-winged  bat  which  was  named  "  Vesperugo  rendalUr 
The  specimen  he  sent  home  from  the  Gambia  was  the  only  one  known.  Years 
afterwards,  however,  Dr.  Rendall  caught  a  bat  on  the  Upper  Shire,  and  to  his 
surprise  found  it  was  identical  with  the  white-winged  bat  of  the  Gambia.  As 
Mr.  Oldfield  Thomas  observes  in  his  paper  on  the  mammals  of  Nyasaland, 
**  It  is  a  curious  coincidence  that  the  second  known  capture  of  this  bat  should 
take  place  in  a  country  so  far  distant  from  the  Gambia  as  Nyasa,  and  that  it 
should  be  due  to  the  very  same  naturalist  who  originally  discovered  it  and  after 
whom  it  was  named.  There  appear  to  be  no  differences  of  the  least  importance 
between  the  Gambian  and  Nyasan  examples." 

Two  species  of  fruit-eating  bats  are  found  in  Nyasaland.^ 

Among  the  insectivores  which  are  few  in  Central  Africa,  are  the  long-nosed, 
jumping  shrews.  One  genus  (^Petrodromus)  (about  the  size  of  a  large  rat)  has 
the  nose  merely  prolonged  into  a  long  snout ;  but  the  more  specialised 
genus  {Rkynchocyon)  has  a  positive  proboscis.  In  spite  of  the  development 
of  the  snout  these  are  pretty  little  animals.  They  soon  die  when  captured, 
which  is  the  more  to  be  regretted  as  with  their  large  eyes  and  soft  fur  they 
would  make  admirable  pets. 

The  carnivora  are  well  represented  in  this  country.  Firstly,  we  have  the  lion 
— almost  too  abundant — and  the  leopard,  still  more  common.  The  handsome 
serval-cat  is  also  found  everywhere  throughout  the  whole  of  British  Central 
Africa.  Their  kittens  are  easily  reared  and  stand  confinement  well ;  one  which 
I  kept  for  three  years  in  captivity  is  now  in  the  Zoological  Gardens.  These 
serval-cats  become  tame  to  a  certain  extent,  but  never  as  absolutely  friendly  as 
a  pet  leopard.  The  serval  resents  caresses  and  is  ready  to  strike  out  with  its 
sharp  claws.  Still  upon  such  occasions  as  when  those  that  I  kept  escap>ed 
they  submitted  in  a  somewhat  docile  manner  to  be  laid  hold  of  and  hauled 
about,  and  their  cage  could  always  be  entered  by  the  negro  attendant  without 
any  aggressive  action  on  their  part. 

The  serval  appears  to  me  to  be  an  interesting  form  for  the  reason  that  I 
think  it  represents  a  more  generalised  type  of  true  cat,  something  akin  to  the 
primal  feline  stock  from  which  the  cheetah  branched  off  a  little  lower  down. 
The   serval  suggests  the  cheetah  in   many  ways  while  it  also  has  a  marked 

*  The  leaping  powers  of  all  the  Galagos  are  remarkable,  but  reach  their  highest  development 
perhaps,  in  the  great  CJalago.  In  West  Africa  I  used  to  l)e  much  struck  with  the  bat-like  movements  of 
the  smaller  Galagos.  A  tame  one  would  suddenly  leap  from  my  hand — I  had  almost  said  "  fly  " — two 
yards  away  to  the  window-pane  and  there  kill  a  moth  or  fly  that  was  buzzing  against  the  glass.  The  swift 
movements  of  the  great  Galago  still  more  resemble  flight,  and  it  has  a  habit  of  slightly  spreading  out  the 
limbs,  especially  the  arms,  as  it  noiselessly  jumps  through  the  air.  It  can  jump  horizontally  or  upwardly ; 
its  leaps  are  not  necessarily  downwards.  The  large  pads  on  the  under  surface  of  almost  all  the  Angers 
except  one  (for  a  faithful  feature  throughout  all  the  Lemuroids  is  that  one  finger  remains  thin  and  provided 
with  a  sharp  claw,  whereas  the  other  fingers  and  toes  are  padded  and  provided  with  square  nails)  seem  to 
assist  this  lemur  in  breaking  the  shock  of  its  jumps,  and  enabling  it  to  cling  to  almost  any  surface. 

1  cannot  help  thinking  that  the  flight  of  the  l)ats  began  in  some  such  way  as  this,  especially  if  the  bats 
arose  rather  through  a  Lemuroid  type  than  as  a  section  of  the  Insectivora. 

2  Xantharpyia  and  Epomophorus. 


ZOOLOGY  289 

relationship  to  the  lynxes.  The  spots  are  simple  like  those  in  the  cheetah  and 
the  lynxes,  and  although  he  is  a  true  cat  (in  that  the  claws  are  fully  retractile), 
still  the  paw  is  much  smaller  in  relative  size  than  it  is  with  other  members  of  the 
genus  Felis^  and  much  more  like  the  paw  of  the  cheetah.  Also  the  claws  are 
not  proportionally  so  large.  The  ears  have  a  slight  approach  to  a  tuft  at  the 
af)ex  suggesting  the  lynx  ;  the  tail  though  much  longer  than  that  of  an  average 
lynx  is  still  rather  short  but  very  thick ;  and  in  this  particular  the  animal  has 
diverged  from  the  ancestral  cat  rather  in  the  direction  of  the  lynxes.  The  legs 
are  very  long  which  is  also  a  characteristic  of  the  cheetah  and  the  lynx  but 
may  have  been  acquired  by  the  serval  from  its  hunting  habits ;  for  from  all 
accounts  it  often  pursues  its  prey  instead  of  lying  in  wait  and  securing  it  by 
sudden  leaps.  Nevertheless,  it  is  a  good  climber  and  owing  to  the  small  size 
of  its  feet  and  thin  body  can  find  a  foothold  on  a  ledge  not  more  than  two 
inches  broad. 

The  serval  is  most  destructive  to  the  smaller  game,  but  it  is  a  beautiful 
animal  and  often  attains  a  length  of  nearly  four  feet  and  a  height  at  the 
shoulder  of  three  feet.  The  other  wild  cat  of  British  Central  Africa  is  the 
Felis  caffrUy  very  like  the  form  which  gave  rise  to  the  Egyptian  domestic  cat, 
and  which,  mingled  with  the  true  wild  cat  of  Europe  and  Asia,  was  the  joint 
parent  of  the  European  domestic  cat 

The  cats  kept  by  the  natives  are  scarcely  distinguishable  sometimes  from  the 
wild  Felts  caffra,  though  undoubtedly  the  main  origin  of  their  domesticated 
animal  (remotely  derived  from  the  cat  of  Egypt  and  Syria — Felis  maniculatd) 
is  from  a  foreign  source — from  Europe  and  India,  via  the  East  Coast  of  Africa. 
But  unquestionably  the  wild  cat  of  British  Central  Africa  mingles  freely  with 
the  domestic  and  semi-domestic  animal,  and  the  natives  often  bring  in  its 
kittens  from  the  woods  and  rear  them  as  domestic  cats.  These  animals  are 
charming  when  in  the  kitten  stage,  but  when  they  grow  up  they  become  lanky, 
with  small  heads  and  thin  tails.  The  domestic  cats  which  are  too  directly 
derived  from  the  wild  species  are  not  very  tame  or  tractable. 

The  cheetah  is  very  rare  but  is  found  on  the  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau, 
near  Lake  Mweru,  probably  in  the  Luangwa  Valley,  and  possibly  in  the 
countries  to  the  north-east  of  Lake  Nyasa.  I  have  no  positive  record  of  this 
hunting  cat  having  been  actually  killed  in  the  Nyasaland  province.  The 
animal  has  been  shot  by  Mr.  J.  B.  Yule  (who  showed  me  the  skins,  one  of  which 
I  sent  home)  on  the  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau.  The  cheetah  in  question  was 
the  common  variety  with  black  spots.  I  have  never  heard  of  the  red  spotted 
cheetah  of  South  Africa  having  been  found  north  of  the  Zambezi. 

The  hyena  of  British  Central  Africa  is  the  ordinary  spotted  species  whose 
range  extends  from  South  Africa  to  the  Egyptian  Sudan  up  the  eastern  side  of 
the  continent ;  the  spotted  hyena  is  probably  found  in  the  Central  Sudan  and 
may  enter  the  Niger  territories  outside  the  forest  region.^ 

The  civet  cat  is  extremely  common.  Strange  to  say  the  natives  seem  to 
make  no  use  of  its  remarkable  scent  gland.  A  lovely  little  genet  cat,  whose 
large  spots  are  a  rich  umber  brown  instead  of  black  is  very  common,  and  makes 
a  charming  house  pet. 

^  The  remarkable  brown  hyena  has  a  somewhat  similar  range  but  less  continuous.  I  believe  I  met 
with  it  on  Kilimanjaro ;  it  is  commonest  in  south-east  Africa  and  is  said  to  extend  along  the  south-west 
coast  as  far  as  the  district  of  Mossamedes.  Up  to  the  present  it  has  not  been  recorded  from  British 
Central  Africa.  The  range  of  the  striped  hyena  is  altogether  fcur  to  the  north.  It  probably  nearly  meets 
the  range  of  the  spotted  hyena  in  the  Sudan  and  elsewhere  extends  over  the  Mediterranean  basin,  Persia, 
and  Western  India. 

19 


290  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

A  remarkable  animal  from  the  point  of  view  of  distribution  is  the  palm 
civet  {Nandinid)  which  as  far  as  is  yet  known  extends  right  across  from  West 
Africa  into  Nyasaland,  but  is  not  found  in  East  or  South  Africa.  Ichneumons 
of  three  genera  are  found  in  this  country. 

The  only  species  of  Jackal  which  is  recorded  from  our  collection  is  the  side- 
striped  jackal  (Cants  lateralis  or  C.  adustus).  It  is  entirely  unlike  the  handsome 
black-backed  jackal  of  South  Africa,  which  has  a  black  back  and  a  silvery  band 
of  fur  below  the  black;  the  centre  of  the  back  of  the  Nyasaland  jackal  is  a  rich 
chestnut  brown  and  the  silvery  streak  below  is  only  faintly  marked. 

The  Cape  hunting-dog^  has  been  killed  on  Mount  Zomba  and  is  reported 
from  West  Nyasaland.  Other  specimens  were  obtained  by  Mr.  Crawshay  in 
the  Lake  Mweru  district  and  sent  home  by  me.  From  all  accounts  it  is  not  a 
common  animal  in  British  Central  Africa  unless  it  be  in  the  Luangwa  valley. 


A  SPOTTED   HYENA 


M.  Foa,  a  French  sportsman,  reports  these  animals  as  frequently  met  with  in 
the  Makanga  country  to  the  south-west  of  Nyasaland. 

A  pretty  little  white-necked  weasel ^  has  been  obtained  in  the  Shire  High- 
lands. I  have  also  met  with  the  ratel  or  honey  badger  in  the  same  district,  but 
we  have  not  yet  found  the  small  black  and  white  "Cape  polecat"  {Ictonyx\ 
which  inhabits  South  and  East  Africa,  and  whose  range  may — like  that  of  so 
many  other  species — be  interrupted  by  British  Central  Africa. 

An  otter  is  very  common  on  the  Shire,  in  Lake  Chilwa,  Lake  Nyasa, 
and  in  other  large  waters  of  British  Central  Africa.  The  only  species  recorded 
by  complete  specimens  is  Lutra  maculicollis,  or  the  "spotted-necked  otter"; 
but  I  am  inclined  to  think  that  Lutra  capensis  is  also  found  in  parts  of  British 
Central  Africa.  I  can  only  base  my  impression  on  dressed  skins  seen  in  the 
possession  of  natives,  which  I  believe  to  have  been  of  this  animal. 

Except  to  naturalists  there  is  nothing  very  interesting  in  the  rodents  of 
British  Central  Africa.  A  hare  is  present  in  Nyasaland  of  the  big  species, 
Lepus  whytei.  One  or  other  types  of  hare  are  also  found  in  the  western  part 
of  British  Central  Africa  but  may  possibly  belong  to  species  common  to  South 

*  Lycaon,  2  Parilogale. 


ZOOLOGY  291 

or  East  Africa.  I  should  like  to  make  a  special  mention  of  the  large  Octodont 
— one  of  the  few  Octodont  rodents  found  outside  America — the  *'  ground-pig," 
Aulacodus  swinderenianus.  This  creature  which  is  especially  fond  of  sugar- 
cane plantations  is  such  a  delicious  article  of  diet  that  it  ought  to  be  domesti- 
cated for  the  table.  Its  flesh  tastes  something  like  that  of  a  rabbit  but  has  a 
savour  quite  its  own. 

As  regards  rats,  I  should  mention  that  they  are  numerous  and  a  great  pest. 
The  natives  eat  them  with  gusto.  The  common  rat  of  the  native  villages  and 
European  settlements  is  a  brown  variety  of  the  Black  rat  {Mus  rattus).  There 
is  one  rat  which  is  an  appalling  creature  to  look  at  It  is  apparently  allied 
to  the  Bandicoot-rat  of  India — about  the  size  of  a  rabbit,  with  pale  grey  fur, 
a  long  tail  and  hideously  long  snout.  In  captivity  it  is  ferocious  to  the  last 
degree  and  looks  a  thoroughly  evil  animal. 

A  porcupine  has  been  found  in  British  Central  Africa  but  I  have  not  been 
able  to  obtain  specimens  for  identification  and  only  know  it  from  native  report 
and  from  having  seen  its  quills  in  use  for  native  ornaments.  The  natives  state 
that  there  are  two  species,  one  large  and  one  small,  for  which  they  have  slightly 
different  names,  Nungu  and  Kanungu, 

The  Hyraxes  are  represented  by  at  least  two  species — Procavia  johnstoni 
and  P,  brucei.  They  are  chiefly  confined  in  their  distribution  to  the  high 
mountains  and  plateaux. 

The  Ungulates,  as  elsewhere  in  Tropical  Africa,  are  well  represented. 

There  is  the  African  elephant  of  course,  and  among  the  Perissodactyla 
we  have  the  ordinary  two-horned  rhinoceros  and  the  zebra.  The  Artiodactyla 
are  represented  by  the  hippopotamus,  two  genera  of  swine,  and  numerous 
examples  of  the  Bovidce  or  hollow-homed  ruminants. 

The  elephant  was  formerly  most  abundant  throughout  the  whole  of  British 
Central  Africa,  and  in  the  years  following  on  Livingstone's  first  expedition 
many  sportsmen  from  England  made  large  sums  of  money  by  the  ivory  which 
they  obtained  in  the  Shire  district  and  at  the  north  end  of  Lake  Nyasa.  Sub- 
sequently this  great  beast  has  become  very  scarce  within  the  limits  of  the 
Protectorate  though  he  is  still  found  in  large  numbers  in  the  rest  of  British 
Central  Africa,  especially  in  the  Mweru  districts,  the  Luangwa  Valley  and  the 
country  between  the  Luangwa  and  the  Luapula.  They  are  also  occasionally 
met  with  in  the  Ruo,  Zomba,  West  Shire,  South  Nyasa,  Central  Angortiland, 
Marimba,  and  West  Nyasa  districts  of  the  Protectorate,  being  most  abundant 
in  Central  Angoniland  and  in  Marimba.  They  feed  chiefly  on  leaves  and  such 
fruits  as  are  in  season.  They  also  eat  the  top  shoots  of  the  Phragmites  reeds 
and  the  roots  of  certain  trees,  which  they  are  fond  of  chewing.  These  trees  they 
uproot  with  their  trunks  and  also  by  butting.  Mr.  Sharpe,  who  has  studied 
elephants  closely,  denies  that  they  use  their  tusks  for  prizing-up  the  trees  or  for 
exhuming  roots.  Although  I  respect  him  as  a  great  authority  on  the  subject  I 
cannot  agree  with  him  in  this  particular.  I  have  seen  something  of  elephants 
on  the  Congo  and  at  the  back  of  the  Cameroons,  and  there  the  natives  have 
told  me  spontaneously  that  the  elephant  used  one  of  his  tusks  for  digging  in 
the  ground  and  for  uprooting  the  small  trees.  Moreover,  it  often  happens  that 
one  of  the  elephant's  tusks — the  "  ground  tusk " — is  more  worn  and  blunted 
than   the  other,   probably   from  being  put  to  this  use.^      At  the  same  time 

*  The  term  **  ground  tusk  "  may  bear  two  interpretations.  According  to  old  custom,  when  a  native  in 
Central  Africa  kills  an  elephant  he  gives  the  *  Aground  tusk"  to  the  Chief  of  the  Country.  This  may 
either  mean  the  inferior  tusk  worn  with  digging,  but  more  probably  the  undermost  of  the  two  tusks — that 
which  is  touching  the  ground,  in  reference  to  the  proprietary  rights  of  the  *'  Lord  of  the  Manor." 


292  BRITISH    CENTRAL    AFRICA 

although  I  have  seen  elephants  at  work  in  Hyphaene  palm  forests  on  the  Congo 
actually  being  able  to  watch  them  from  a  boat  working  their  will  on  these  trees 
for  the  sake  of  the  "  ginger-bread  "  covering  of  the  nuts,  I  cannot  say  I  have 
seen  them  kneel  down  and  uproot  a  tree  with  the  tusk.  One  is  a  little  puzzled 
sometimes  to  account  for  the  enormous  development  of  the  two  remaining 
upper  incisor  teeth,  unless  they  were  used  for  some  such  purpose  as  digging 
up  roots.  They  are  not  so  useful  as  defensive  or  offensive  weapons  that  they 
should  be  worth  development  for  this  purpose  alone.  In  killing  animals  much 
less  in  size  than  himself  the  elephant  generally  uses  his  trunk  and  feet,  though 
I  admit  many  cases  occur — including  one  which  took  place  a  few  months  ago  in 
England — where  an  elephant  does  deliberately  slay  his  victim  with  his  tusk. 
On  the  whole  I  am  inclined  to  believe  that  where  the  elephant  retains  these 
huge  teeth  he  uses  them  occasionally  for  digging  in  the  ground.  This  belief  is 
supported  by  the  very  distinct  statements  of  such  authorities  as  (the  late)  Sir 
Samuel  Baker  and  Mr.  F.  C.  Selous.  The  former  writes  "They  (the  acacia 
trees)  are  easily  overturned  by  the  tusks  of  the  elephants  which  are  driven  like 
crowbars  beneath  the  roots  and  used  as  levers,  in  which  rough  labour  they  are 
frequently  broken  ....  It  is  nearly  always  the  right  tusk  which  is  selected 
for  this  duty."  Mr.  Selous  states  that  he  has  seen  large  areas  of  sandy  soil 
ploughed  up  by  the  tusks  of  these  animals  in  their  search  for  roots. 

Although  nowhere  very  abundant,  the  ordinary  two-homed  rhinoceros  is 
probably  found  pretty  generally  over  all  British  Central  Africa  except  on  the 
high  plateaux.  But  from  all  accounts  it  is  absent  from  the  south  shore  of 
^  Tanganyika  and  from  the  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau.  Unless,  therefore,  it  can 
be  proved  to  exist  in  the  interior  of  the  Mozambique  district  the  rhinoceros  will 
be  another  of  those  animals  whose  range  is  completely  broken  by  the  inter- 
position of  British  Central  Africa.^  Is  the  so-called  "  white  rhinoceros " 
{^Rhinoceros  sitnus)  found  north  of  the  Zambezi  ?  This  is  a  question  rather 
hard  to  answer  in  the  negative  or  affirmative.  I  should  not  be  surprised  to  hear 
that  it  was,  though  not  within  British  territory  but  in  the  adjoining  districts  of 
Portuguese  Zambezia.  In  1892  an  English  trader,  Mr.  Harry  Pettitt,  gave  me 
an  extraordinary  pair  of  horns  which  he  had  obtained  in  Portuguese  territory  to 
the  south  of  the  river  Ruo.  These  horns  were  very  similar  in  appearance  to 
those  of  the  "  white  rhinoceros,'*  that  is  to  say,  both  horns  were  of  good  length 
but  the  front  one  was  extremely  long,  slender  and  directed  forwards.  There 
are  specimens  extant  of  the  white  rhinoceros  in  which  the  front  horn  is  not 
directed  forwards  but  is  exactly  vertical,  or  turned  slightly  backwards.  Still  I 
never  remember  to  have  seen  a  specimen  of  the  ordinary  two-horned  rhinoceros 
which  has  the  front  horn  directed  forwards.  The  pair  of  horns  to  which  I 
allude  I  sent  to  Mr.  Sclater  and  I  believe  they  are  now  in  the  British  Museum.* 
The  zebra  of  British  Central  Africa  is  a  singularly  beautiful  beast  and 
should,  if  right  were  done,  be  made  a  type  species  under  the  name  of  Equus 
tigrinus^  with  three  sub-species  or  varieties — E,  tigrinus  burchelli,  E,  tigrinus 
chapmaniy  and  E.  tigrinus  granti,  to  indicate  in  addition  to  the  clear  and 
perfectly  striped  Central  African  form  the  three  other  varieties  which  are 
marred   in   their  beauty    by    intermediate    faint    stripes,   and    one    of   which 

*  Abundant  evidence,  however,  of  the  existence  of  the  Rhinoceros  in  the  vicinity  of  Lake  Rukwa 
was  obtained  by  the  Rev.  Harwood  Nult  of  the  London  Missionary  Society. 

*  Mr.  Sclater  suggests  they  may  belong  to  a  .sub-species  of  Rhinoceros  proposed  by  Dr.  Gray,  **  Gray's 
Rhinoceros." 

'  Namely  the  striped  horse,  par  excellence. 


THE  CENTRAL   AFRICAN   ZEBRA 


ZOOLOGY  295 

(Burcheirs  zebra)  has  the  legs  below  the  "knee"  and  hock  almost  without 
stripes. 

The  question  with  regard  to  the  striped  horses  stands  thus : — There  is  the 
true  or  mountain  zebra  {Equus  zebra)^  a  smaller  animal  than  the  zebra  of  the 
plains  and  with  the  pattern  and  breadth  of  the  stripes  differing  from  the  three 
types  of  (so-called)  Burchell's  zebra.  The  true  zebra  is  perhaps  the  most  per- 
fectly striped  of  all  the  Tigrine  horses.  This  creature  is  nearly  extinct  but  has 
always  been  for  the  last  hundred  years  or  so  confined  to  the  mountains  of 
South  Africa. 

Then  there  is  the  closely  allied  Equus  grevyi  which  inhabits  the  mountains 
of  southern  Abyssinia  and  Somaliland.  From  the  resemblance  between 
these  two  types  of  mountain  zebra  one  might  imagine  that  there  had  been 
a  regular  race  of  mountain  zebras  inhabiting  all  the  highlands  from  the 
north-east  to  the  south-west  of  Africa,  but  that  all  the  links  between  Shoa  and 
Cape  Colony  had  died  out  in  the  course  of  time.  It  is  curious  that  the  natives 
of  Mlanje  assert  that  there  is  a  small  mountain  zebra  dwelling  on  Michesi 
Mountain  which  is  an  outlying  spur  of  the  Mlanje  range.  Up  to  the  present, 
however,  we  have  been  unable  to  secure  a  specimen. 

Then  comes  the  race  of  big  zebras  of  the  plains.  These  are  characterised 
by  much  broader  stripes,  by  the  ground  colour  of  the  skin  being  darker  and 
yellower  in  tint  than  that  of  the  mountain  zebra  and,  in  one  variety,  by  the 
imperfect  striping  of  the  legs.  What  I  object  to  is  that  this  imperfect  type 
should  be  taken  as  the  type  of  the  species  merely  because  it  was  the  first  one  to 
be  discovered  (it  was  named  after  the  South  African  traveller  Burchell).^  Sub- 
sequently as  explorers  and  sportsmen  penetrated  more  and  more  into  South 
Central  Africa  they  found  that  the  zebra  of  the  plains  was  striped  right  down 
to  the  hoof.  A  specimen  was  sent  home  by  a  Mr.  Chapman  and  naturalists 
then  called  it  Equus  burchelli,  variety  chapnianL  But  both  Burchell's  and 
Chapman's  zebras  have  this  point  in  common,  that  in  between  the  broad  black 
stripes  there  are  thin  hazy  dun-coloured  streaks,  much  as  though  one  took  a 
photograph  of  a  striped  zebra,  he  moved,  and  so  the  stripes  were  faintly 
duplicated.  This  intervening  brown  zigzag  marking  has,  in  my  opinion,  a 
very  ugly  effect.  Now  the  zebra  of  Nyasaland  and,  as  far  as  I  know,  of  all 
British  Central  Africa,  is  without  this  duplication  of  the  stripe,  and  is  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  animals  in  existence.  Its  ground  colour  is  very  pale  fawn, 
melting  into  white,  and  the  stripes  are  broad  and  jet  black.  It  is  striped  down 
to  its  very  hoofs.  But  on  the  other  hand,  the  common  zebra  of  East  Africa  and 
Uganda  also  has  these  duplications  of  the  stripes,  though  not  in  such  a  marked 
degree  as  the  South  African  zebra  of  the  plains.  It  would  seem,  therefore,  that 
the  zebra  found  in  South  Central  Africa  is  a  distinct  variety,  if  not  species.  I 
consider  it  should  be  the  type  of  the  large  zebras  and  that  the  others  should  be 
classified  as  inferior  varieties,  tending  more  towards  the  Quagga.  This  point, 
however,  was  first  raised  by  Mr.  Richard  Crawshay,  and  up  to  the  present 
zoologists  are  not  agreed  as  to  the  validity  it  possesses.^ 

Last  in  the  list  of  zebras  is  the  Quagga  which  is  dun  coloured,  with  stripes 
only  on  the  neck,  shoulders,  and  forelegs.     The  Quaggji  is  nearly  if  not  quite 

*  The  story  goes  that  Dr.  Gray,  of  the  British  Museum,  and  the  explorer  Burchell— both  peppery 
men — had  quarrelled.  Dr.  Gray  having  a  new  zebra  to  name,  called  it,  half  in  fun,  half  in  malice, 
*•  Asinus  burchelli.**     Burchell,  so  far  from  appreciating  the  honour,  challenged  Dr.  Gray  to  fight  a  duel ! 

'  Since  writing  the  above  I  have  read  the  article  on  the  subject  by  Mr.  W.  E.  de  Winton  in  the 
Magazine  of  Natural  History ,  but  I  think  it  best  to  let  my  views  stand  as  they  are. 


296  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

extinct  and,  so  far  as  we  know,  is  confined  in  its  range  to  Africa  south  of  the 
Zambezi.     It  is  very  asinine  in  its  affinities.^ 

The  zebra  is  still  extremely  common  almost  all  over  the  Protectorate,  and 
measures  have  now  been  taken  to  preserve  it  from  undue  diminution  at  the 
hands  of  sportsmen  and  natives.  I  have  several  times  tried  to  tame  the  young 
but  have  had  great  difficulty  in  rearing  them  away  from  their  mothers,  and  all 
experimented  on  have  died  within  a  few  days  of  their  capture. 

When  our  system  of  Game  Reserves  is  perfected  we  shall  be  able  from  time 
to  time  to  make  drives  and  possibly  catch  some  of  the  young  zebras  sufficiently 
old  to  be  independent  of  a  milk  diet  and  yet  not  so  old  as  to  be  quite 
intractable.  They  might  then  be  broken  in  and  tamed  as  is^now  being  done 
increasingly  in  South  Africa. 

The  zebra  of  British  Central  Africa  is  slightly  larger  than  his  South  African 
congener  and  is,  perhaps,  the  largest  representative  of  the  zebra  group. 

When  I  first  came  to  this  country  I  found  the  hippopotamus  so  numerous  on 
the  Shire  as  to  be  a  serious  danger  to  navigation  in  vessels  smaller  than  a 
steamer.  They  were  very  vicious  and  fond  of  pursuing  and  upsetting  canoes. 
Mr.  Sharpe  in  travelling  down  the  Shire  in  1892  was,  as  I  have  already  related, 
upset  by  a  hippopotamus  and  nearly  drowned.  I  have  been  in  a  boat  myself  on 
the  Upper  Shire  which  was  so  far  tilted  over  by  a  hippopotamus  that  most  of 
the  men  fell  into  the  water  and  I  only  saved  myself  by  clinging  to  the  doorway 
of  the  house.  This  being  the  case,  we  have  never  attempted  to  check  the 
slaughter  of  these  animals  and  they  are  now  so  far  reduced  in  numbers  on  the 
Shire  as  no  longer  to  be  a  source  of  danger.  They  are  still  abundant  on  parts 
of  the  coasts  of  Lakes  Nyasa,  Tanganyika,  and  all  the  other  big  lakes,  and  are 
found  in  every  river  with  a  sufficient  amount  of  water  to  immerse  their  bodies.- 
They  are  said  to  visit  Lake  Chilwa  at  certain  times  of  the  year,  travelling 
overland  from  the  Shire.  When  we  have  reduced  the  numbers  of  the  hippo- 
potamus to  something  more  compatible  with  the  safety  of  canoe  travelling  we 
shall  probably  add  him  to  the  list  of  protected  animals,  as  we  have  no  desire 
to  bring  about  the  absolute  extinction  of  one  of  the  few  great  survivors  of  the 
Tertiary  Epoch. 

Pigs  are  represented  in  British  Central  Africa  by  the  bush  pigs  {Potamock^rus 
Afncanus  and  P.johnstoni)  and  the  wart  hog  {Phacochcerus  cethiopicus). 

The  bush  pigs  chiefly  frequent  the  hills  and  mountains,  though  they  are  also 
found  in  the  plains  near  rivers.  They  are  weird  looking  creatures  with  long 
wiry  hair  which  is  yellow  and  grey  with  a  few  white  marks.     Along  the  back 

1  Summarized  the  revised  classification  of  the  horses  might  stand  thus  : 

A.  True  horses —      Equus  caballus. 

Equus  prjevalski, 

B.  Asses —  Equus  kiang, 

Equus  hemi'onus, 
Equus  astnus. 
Equus  somalicus. 

C.  Stfiped  horses — Equus  quagga. 

Equus  tigrinus. 
E.t.f  burckelli. 
E.t.^  chapmani, 
E.t.f  grantt, 
Equus  grevyi. 
Equus  zebra. 
*  Though  the  hippopotamus  will  go  into  the  Indian  Ocean  off  the  mouths  of  big  rivers  and  though  it 
can  if  need  be  swim  across  any  African  lake,  still  one  never  meets  with  them  as  a  rule  much  out  of  their 
depth.     They  do  not  care  for  swimming  but  prefer  walking  along  the  bed  of  rivers  or  shallow  lakes  below 
the  surface  or  resting  thereon,  rising  every  now  and  then  to  the  surface  to  breathe  and  float. 


ZOOLOGY 


297 


HEAD  OF   A   HIPPOPOTAMUS 


there  is  a  considerable  whitish  mane.     The  bush  pigs  are  closely  allied  to  the 
Red  river  hog  of  West  Africa.^ 

The  young  of  the  bush  pig  are  spotted  and  striped  with  white  as  are  the 
young  of  almost  all  members  of  the  genus  Sus.     This  is  not  the  case  with  the 

'  When  this  chapter  had  been  written  I  learnt  through  Mr.  W.  E.  de  Winton  that  Dr.  Forsyth  Major, 
after  examining  the  pigs'  skulls  in  the  British  Museum  sent  home  by  mc  in  1889,  had  determined  a  new 
species  which  he  had  named  Potaniochients  johnstoni,  and  which  is  remarkable  as  being  an  intermediate 
form  between  the  Bush  pigs  and  the  True  pigs. 


298  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

young  wart  hogs,  which  are  born  without  these  white  markings.  The  wart  hog 
is  chiefly  distinguished  from  the  true  pigs  by  the  reduction  in  number  of  its 
upper  incisor  teeth.  In  young  animals  one  pair  of  perfectly  useless  incisor  teeth 
— the  outermost  pair — is  retained,  but  these  fall  out  in  the  old  males.  In  old 
animals  it  sometimes  happens  that  there  are  few  teeth  left  in  the  head  except 
the  molars  and  the  canine  tusks.  There  are  also  peculiarities  in  the  number 
and  shape  of  the  molar  teeth  which  separate  these  animals  from  the  typical 
pigs.  In  the  male  there  is  very  little  hair  on  the  body  except  along  the  line  of 
the  back  where  a  thin  mane  of  very  long  coarse  bristles  extends  from  the  top 
of  the  head  to  the  tail.  This  mane  is  not  erect  but  falls  over  on  either  side. 
Around  the  chest  there  is  also  a  frill  of  whitish  bristles.  The  rest  of  the  body 
is  nearly  bare  but  is  sprinkled  with  a  bristly  growth.  My  illustration,  which 
was  drawn  from  life,  will  give  some  idea  of  this  extraordinary  creature.  I  kept 
a  wart  hog  for  over  a  year  at  Zomba  as  a  pet.  He  was  brought  down  from  the 
Lake  Mweru  district  by  Mr.  Crawshay  and  is  now  in  the  Zoological  Gardens. 
The  animal  derives  its  name  from  the  huge  excrescences  or  warts  on  the  face, 
four  in  number — the  large  ones  seemingly  serving  as  defences  to  the  eyes  and 
two  small  ones  on  either  side  of  the  nasal  bones  not  sufficiently  developed  as 
yet  to  be  of  any  particular  use. 

The  wart  hog  prefers  a  dry  country  and  likes  a  loose  sandy  soil  in  which 
it  burrows,  or  at  least  is  thought  to  burrow.  In  the  opinion  of  some  observers 
it  does  riot  make  these  holes  itself  but  occupies  the  lair  of  some  other  animal, 
or  a  natural  crevice  in  any  mound.  The  natives  state  that  the  female  wart  hog 
seldom  has  more  than  two  young  ones  at  a  time.  Certainly  the  number  of  teats 
is  much  reduced,  being  only  four,  which  are  inguinal  in  position.  The  female  is 
a  good  deal  smaller  than  the  male  and  has  not  quite  such  a  preposterous 
development  of  head,  nor  are  her  tusks  nearly  as  large. 

As  it  exists,  the  mature  male  wart  hog  looks  like  a  beast  of  another  epoch. 
I  doubt  if  there  is  any  other  mammal  whose  head  is  so  disproportionately  large. 

The  existence  of  the  girafife  in  British  Central  Africa  is  still  a  moot  question. 
The  natives  report  its  presence  in  the  Luangwa  Valley  with  very  circumstantial 
details  and  they  are  probably  telling  the  truth ;  but  up  to  the  present  time  no 
European  has  sighted  the  animal  in  that  country,  nor  have  any  tangible  proofs, 
such  as  skulls,  or  tails,  or  skins,  been  sent  back  as  evidence  of  its  existence.* 

We  have  seen  so  few  specimens  of  the  giraffe  living  or  dead  in  England,  and 
those  specimens  commonly  exhibited  have  not  been  very  good  ones  that 
perhaps  we  do  not  realise  the  remarkable  fact  that  one  species  or  sub-species 
of  the  giraffe  is  really  a  three-horned  animal.  I  saw  recently  at  the  British 
Museum  a  head  from  Somaliland  in  which  the  central  horn  between  the  eyes 
was  nearly  six  inches  in  length.  As  a  matter  of  fact  the  giraffe  is  an  animal 
which  has  lost  its  horns  and  retained  little  more  than  the  basal  portion,  the 
bony  cores  from  which  the  horns  (probably  in  the  form  of  antlers)  once 
grew.  An  analogy  may  be  found  in  the  prong  buck  of  North  America,  an 
animal  which  appears  to  be  very  distantly  related  to  the  stock  from  which 
the  giraffe  sprang.  Imagine  the  horn  cores  of  the  prong  buck  increased  in 
growth  till  they  resemble  those  of  the  muntjac  deer  and  you  have  something 
answering  the  present  condition  of  the  giraffe's  so-called  "horns." 

^  It  is  a  point  so  interesting  as  to  be  worth  a  special  expedition  on  the  part  of  some  enterprising 
sportsman-naturalist,  as  it  would  be  desirable  to  know  whether  it  differed  in  any  way  from  the  giraffe  of 
South  Africa  and  is  more  akin  to  the  giraffe  of  East  Africa  and  the  Northern  Sudan.  This  subject  has 
lately  been  discussed  by  Mr.  W.  E.  de  Winton. 


A  wartIhog 


< 

X 


ZOOLOGY 


303 


The  buffalo  of  British  Central  Africa  is  the  type  known  as  the  Cape  Buffalo 
{Bos  caffer).  The  range  of  this  species  probably  extends  from  South  Africa  up 
the  eastern  half  of  the  continent  to  the  Victoria  Nyanza,  the  White  Nile, 
and  Somaliland.  Its  place  in  Abyssinia  and  the  Egyptian  and  Central  Sudan  is 
taken  by  another  variety  or  species  known  as  the  Central  African  Buffalo.^  It 
extends  into  West  Africa  as  far  as  the  southern  boundaries  of  the  district 
of  Angola  proper  and  thence  over  the  whole  Zambezi  region  into  the  south  and 
east  of  the  Congo  Free  State,  reaching  more  than  half-way  up  the  coast  of 
Tanganyika  and  being  found  on  the  upper  waters  of  the  Lualaba  and  Kasai. 
Thenceforward  to  the  north  and  west  its  place  is  taken  by  the  curious  short- 
horned  red  buffalo  of  West  Africa,  which  is  the  only  species  found  in  the  forest 
part  of  the  Congo  Basin  and  along  the  west  coast  and  in  Nigeria. 

It  may  be  interesting  to  give  here  a  drawing  of  the  horns  of  this  forest 
buffalo  of  the  Congo,  which  I  did  at  Bolobo 
on  the  Upper  Congo  some  years  ago.  On 
the  whole  I  am  disposed  to  regard  the  forest 
buffalo  of  West  Africa  as  rather  a  degenerate 
than  a  primitive  type  of  buffalo.  It  is  evidently 
a  deteriorated  race  of  the  Bos  caffer} 

Buffaloes  are  very  abundant  all  over 
British  Central  Africa,  but  of  course  are 
retiring  from  the  vicinity  of  European  settle- 
ments. They  are  also  frequenters  of  the 
plain  rather  than  the  mountains,  though  they 
will  ascend  high  plateaux  in  the  dry  season 
for  the  sake  of  the  green  herbage.  The 
favourite  places  of  their  resort  are  wide 
marshy  districts  like  the  Elephant  Marsh  near  Chiromo,  where  even  after  the 
most  wanton  and  indiscriminate  slaughter  at  the  hands  of  Europeans^  they 
exist  in  large  numbers — thousands,  it  is  said.  Like  the  Indian  buffalo  they 
are  fond  of  wallowing  in  mud  and  water,  though  perhaps  not  as  aquatic  in 
their  habits  as  the  last-named  animal.  They  are  dangerous  beasts  to  tackle 
under  certain  conditions  though  less  dangerous  than  the  elephant  and  lion. 
It  is  seldom  that  they  will  take  aggressive  action  against  the  sportsman  when 
not  wounded.* 


HORNS  OF  CONGO   BUFFALO 


^  Bos  aquinoctialis.  This  variety  of  buffalo  is  much  more  interesting  than  appears  from  the  meagre 
accounts  given  of  it  by  all  naturalists.  It  is  to  some  degree  a  connecting  link  between  the  Aft-ican 
and  Indian  buffaloes.  The  horns  are  much  longer,  and  are  directed  fieirther  backwards  than  in  the  Cape 
buffalo.     There  is  not  such  an  exaggerated  boss  on  the  forehead. 

*  The  most  primitive  known  buffalo  or  ox  is  the  Anoa  of  the  island  of  Celebes.  This  creature  shows 
signs  of  affinities  with  the  Tragelaphs  (a  group  of  [so  called]  bovine  antelopes,  to  which  the  Nilgai,  the  Kudu, 
Eland,  and  Bushbuck  belong).  Even  at  the  present  day  with  the  aid  of  the  Philippine  Islands  buffalo, 
there  are  existing  a  series  of  gradations  leading  up  to  the  long-homed  buffalo  of  India,  and  thence  through 
the  Central  African  buffalo  to  the  Cape  species  which  may  be  regarded  as  the  culmination  of  Bubaline 
development  at  the  present  day.  But  fossil  remains  from  both  North  and  South  Africa  show  us  that  there 
existea  buffalo  in  this  continent  in  past  ages  the  development  of  whose  horns  was  gigantic  though  perhaps 
not  as  extravagant  even  as  some  extinct  Indian  species.  Mr.  Lydekker  states  that  a  fossil  buffalo  skull 
from  South  Africa  showed  horn  cores  which  were  14  feet  long,  and  to  this  length  must,  of  course,  be  added 
that  of  the  horn  covering — a  foot  or  so  longer.  One  weeps  to  think  of  the  degenerate  days  in  which  we 
live.  The  big  game  we  pursue  are  but  small  deer  compared  with  the  glorious  beasts  which  surrounded  our 
pithecoid  ancestors. 

*  Now  checked  by  this  stretch  of  country  having  been  declared  a  Government  Game  Reserve. 

*  Occasionally  out  of  stupid  curiosity  or  because  the  traveller  is  standing  in  the  way  of  a  newly 
bom  buffalo  calf,  buffaloes  will  advance  unprovoked  to  the  attack.  I  remember  visiting  the  Songwe  plains 
at  the  north  end  of  Lake  Nyasa  in  1889  for  the  purpose  of  sport,  accompanied  by  the  late  Mr.  Kydd. 


304 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


'Livingstone's  eland" 


Even  when  wounded  it  is  doubtful  whether  they  charge  in  the  open.  The 
danger  in  connection  with  shooting  buffaloes  is  this,  that  the  wounded  beast 
retires  into  long  grass  or  thickets.  If  the  sportsman  follows  him  up  then  the 
buffalo  puts  no  bounds  to  his  rage  and  is  also  very  cunning.  He  will  charge 
from  out  of  his  hiding  place  and  pursue  his  enemy  with  a  great  deal  of 
intelligence,  that  is  to  say  not  altogether  in  blind  rage,  and  if  he  succeeds 

Soon  after  we  had  landed  at  the  mouth  of  the  Songwe  we  found  ourselves  in  the  midst  of  an  enormous  herd 
of  buffalo.  So  far  from  their  retreating  before  us  these  animals  began  to  toss  their  heads  and  paw  up  the 
ground.  It  seemed  as  though  an  imprudent  shot  would  provoke  a  charge  of  buffaloes  which  would  drive 
us  into  the  crocodile-haunted  reeds  of  the  marshy  lake  margin,  so  that  at  first  we  refrained  from  firing  until 
one  bull  buffalo  advanced  in  front  of  the  herd  and  came  so  near  that  we  had  no  option  but  to  shoot.  The 
beast  fell,  then  rose  to  his  feet,  but  instead  of  charging  made  for  the  river,  and  was  dropped  by  two  more 
shots  from  our  rifles.     The  rest  of  the  buffaloes  turned  and  fled. 


ZOOLOGY 


305 


in  catching  him  up  will  gore  him  and  kneel  on  him.  But  I  can  obtain  no 
authentic  record  of  a  buffalo  when  wounded  in  open  country  immediately 
charging  his  assailant. 

Buffalo  calves  are  born  about  the  end  of  the  rainy  season  (March,  April). 
Although  quickly  tamed  they  are  very  difficult  to  rear.  They  easily  catch  cold 
and  do  not  much  appreciate  cows*  milk.  I  have  been  so  anxious  to  start  the 
domestication  of  these  fine  animals  that  I  brought  a  number  of  tame  Indian 
buffaloes  from  Bombay  in  1895,  and  induced  one  of  them  to  suckle  a  young 
African  buffalo.  The  little  beast  throve  until  he  was  almost  ready  for  weaning, 
but  suddenly  caught  a  chill  and  died  of  pneumonia.  The  Indian  buffaloes 
I  introduced  are  still  in  the  country,  not  one  of  them  having  died,  and  I  am  still 
hoping  that  they  may  be  used  as  foster  mothers  to  rear  up  the  newly  caught 
young  of  the  African  buffalo  until  we  have  established  a  tame  breed  of  this 
animal,  which  should  be  as  useful  in  a  domesticated  state  as  is  the  long-horned 
buffalo  of  India. 

The  Tragelaphs  are  well  represented  in  this  part  of  Africa  by  Livingstone's 
Eland,  the  Kudu,  the  beautiful  Tragelaphus  angasi,  or  Inyala,*  by  the  remark- 
able Situtunga  {Tragelaphus  speke?)  and  the  South 
African  variety  of  the  bush  buck  {Tragelaphus  scriptus 
roualeyni). 

The   Eland   of  Central   Africa   differs   from   the 
variety    found    in    South    and    East    Africa    by    its 
yellower  colour,  and  by  its  retention  of  the  Tragela- 
phine   white    stripes.      Also    I    have    never    seen    a 
specimen  shot  in  British  Central  Africa  which  possessed 
that  great   development   of  "  brush "  on    the   nose  so 
characteristic  of  the  South  African  Eland.   The  Derbian 
Eland   of   West   Africa   is   however   quite   a   separate 
species  from  the  Eland  of  Central  Africa  (Livingstone's 
Eland),  which  latter  is  after  all  little  but  a  sub-species 
of  the  common  form.     The  Central  African  Eland  has 
in  the  male  larger  and  longer  horns  than  the  South 
African  species.     I  give  an  illustration  here  of  what  I 
believe  is  an  exceptionally  fine  male  eland  head.     It 
was  shot  not  far  from  my  house  at  Zomba  by  one  of 
my  native  hunters  and  was  presented  by  me  to  the 
Zoological  Society.     The  length  of  these  horns  is  29J 
inches,  and  they  are  \6\  inches  apart  from  tip  to  tip. 

The  eland  is  seldom  met  with  in  the  low-lying  plains, 
frequenting  mostly  wooded  hills  and  high-lying  open 
grass-covered  districts  on  the  plateaux.  This  also  is 
the  favourite  habitat  of  the  kudu,  the  glory  of  the 
Tragelaphs,  an  animal  to  which  shrines  should  be 
erected  and  worship  tendered  on  account  of  its  beauty. 
The  Central  African  kudu  is  almost  the  finest  develop- 
ment of  the  genus.  Mr.  Sharpe  measured  one  pair  of  horns  shot  in  Nyasaland 
which  gave  62  inches  as  the  length  of  the  horn  following  the  curve.  I  have 
myself  a  pair  of  horns  which  measure  48  inches  along  the  curve. 

I  am  inclined  to  think  that  the  Inyala  antelope  of  British  Central  Africa  is 
limited  in  its  range  as  far  as  we  yet  know  to  the  Western  and  Upper  Shire 

*  Locally  called  Boo, 


HORNS 

OF  Livingstone's  eland 


3o6 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


districts  and  the  Lake  Mweru  district  and  may  be  a  different  variety  to  the 
Inyala  of  South  East  Africa,  inasmuch  as  the  males  retain  white  spots  and 
stripes  on  the  skin  to  a  greater  extent,  and  do  not  assume  such  a  grey  fur  at 
maturity.  The  Inyala,  locally  called  Boo,  is  a  very  rare  animal  frequenting 
dense  thickets.  Its  horns  somewhat  resemble  those  of  the  bushbuck,  but  are 
much  larger  proportionately,  much  wider  apart  and  slenderer.  They  may 
measure  as  much  as  22^  inches  in  length  along  the  curve.  (I  have  a  pair  of 
horns  giving  this  measurement.)     I  have  only  twice  seen  skins  of  the  adult 


A  MALE  BUSHBUCK   ( Trogelaphus  scriptus) 

animal.  They  were  extraordinarily  beautiful  in  colour — the  females  a  deep 
chestnut  with  narrow  stripes  and  spots  in  pure  white  and  a  black  line  along 
the  middle  of  the  back  from  the  neck  to  the  base  of  the  tail;  the  male  purplish- 
grey  with  white  markings.  The  Situtunga  ( Tragelaphus  spekei)  is  not  found  in 
Nyasaland  but  is  met  with  abundantly  in  the  swamps  of  Lakes  Mweru  and 
Bangweolo,  in  the  Luangwa  Valley  and  in  other  parts  of  British  Central  Africa. 
This  Tragelaph  has  taken  to  an  entirely  aquatic  residence  and  the  hoofs  are 
enormously  developed.^  The  horns  of  the  Situtunga,  unlike  those  of  the  rest 
of  the  animals  of  the  genus  Tragelaphus,  have  two  turns  instead  of  a  turn  and 

*  Another  instance  of  great  development  of  the  hoof  for  the  purpose  of  traversing  marshy  ground 
exists  in  Tragelaphus  grains  of  West  Africa. 


HEAD  OF   A   MALE   KUDU 


ZOOLOGY  309 

a  halt}  This  aquatic  Tragelaph  further  differs  from  the  other  members  of  the 
genus  in  having  l6ng,  coarse,  uniformly  grey-coloured  hair  without  white  spots 
or  stripes  in  the  adult.  The  young  are  said  to  be  faintly  striped  and  spotted 
with  white. 

There  remains  to  be  considered  the  Bushbuck  of  Central  Africa.  I  am 
inclined  to  think  that  the  naturalists  are  wrong  in  the  classification  of  the  Bush- 
bucks.  They  should  restore  to  them  that  designation  Tragelaphus  silvaticus 
which  was  formerly  applied  to  the  Bushbuck  of  South-Central  and  East  Africa, 
making  it  a  separate  species  from  Tragelaphus  scriptus^  the  "  Harnessed 
Antelope  "  of  West  Africa.  The  coloration  of  the  Bushbuck  is  usually  uniform 
between  South  and  East  Africa  and  so  different  to  that  of  the  Harnessed 
Antelope  that  it  is  scarcely  logical  to  class  it  as  merely  a  variety  of  the  latter. 
Besides  which  the  horns  of  the  Bushbuck  are  usually  long  ^  and  more  slender  than 
those  of  the  Harnessed  antelope  and  offer  a  more  distinct  beginning  of  a  second 
curve.  The  Bushbuck  is  extremely  common  throughout  British  Central  Africa 
and  is  without  exception  the  most  delicious  eating  of  any  mammal  in  the  world. 
In  tenderness  and  flavour  its  flesh  surpasses  the  best  Welsh  mutton,  or  any 
venison.  Here,  emphatically,  is  an  animal  which  should  be  domesticated  and 
saved  from  extinction.  The  young  and  the  females  of  the  Bushbuck  are  a 
bright  yellow  chestnut  in  colour,  with  well  marked  white  spots  and  stripes,  but 
the  adult  males  become  bluish  grey,  sepia  and  black,  with  the  inner  side  of  the 
legs  white,  a  few  white  spots  and  one  or  two  white  stripes  on  the  hind  quarters, 
two  white  bars  on  the  front  of  the  throat  and  neck,  and  the  usual  tragelaphine 
white  spots  and  stripe  on  the  face.  There  is  also  a  scattered  white  stripe  down 
the  line  of  the  back. 

There  now  remains  to  be  considered  the  great  group  of  true  antelopes,  or 
ring-homed  Bovidce,  found  in  British  Central  Africa.^  These  are  represented 
by  the  following  antelopes : — One  or  more  species  of  Duyker  {Cephalophus),  the 
Oribi,  Steinbok  {Raphicerus),  Klipspringer,  Reedbuck,  five  species  of  Cobus,  the 
Roan  antelope.  Sable  antelope,  Pallah,  Lichtenstein's  Hartebeest,  possibly  the 
Tsess^be  (Damaliscus\  and  the  Blue  Gnu.  There  should  be  one  or  more 
representatives  of  the  little  Livingstone's  Antelopes  {Nesotragus\  but  no 
specimens  have  yet  been  obtained. 

The  Duyker  antelopes  are  neither  so  numerous  in  species  nor  in  actual 
numbers  as  they  are  in  South  and  West  Africa.  They  frequent  chiefly  the 
low-lying  plains  in  the  vicinity  of  water  courses.  The  Cephalophines  are  an 
interesting  antelopine  group  to  which  is  related  the  four-horned  antelope  of 
India.     Although  in  regard  to  the  modification  of  their  toes   by  which   all 

1  The  kudu  and  the  lesser  kudu  have  three  turns,  the  eland  two  turns  and  a  half,  the  situtunga  two 
turns,  and  the  remainder  of  the  African  Tragelaphs  one  turn  and  a  half,  and  the  Nilgai  of  India  only 
the  beginning  of  a  turn. 

•  A  pair  in  my  possession  measures  17}  inches  along  the  curve. 

'  There  are  certain  families  of  mammals  and  of  birds  in  the  classification  of  which  most  naturalists, 
with  the  exception  of  the  late  Professor  Garrod,  seem  to  miss  the  meaning  of  a  conjunction  of  charac- 
teristics and  to  fail  to  grasp  true  relationships,  mistaking  parallel  developments  for  eWdence  of  direct 
inter-connection.  In  no  mammalian  group  has  this  persistence  in  error  been  more  remarkable  than  in  the 
arrangement  of  the  Bovzdce.  That  vague  and  facile  term  '*  antelope"  has  been  made  to  include  at  least 
two  groups  of  hollow-homed  ruminants  which  are  only  akin  one  to  the  other  in  that  they  can  prove  descent 
from  a  common  ancestral  type  of  hollow-horned  niminant.  The  term  **  antelope  '*  should  be  reserved  to 
the  ring-homed  ruminants  and  should  include  gazelles  and  all  the  African  and  Indian  antelopes  which 
have  annulated  horns.  The  goats  and  sheep  and  capricoras  are  nearly-allied  sub-families.  Another  group 
of  equal  value  is  the  Oxen,  or  Bavina,  and  a  third  similarly  distinct,  is  the  Tragilaphina^  or  Tragelaphs. 
The  diagram  on  next  page  will  show  my  idea  of  the  right  classification,  arrangement  and  development  of 
the  Bavida,     It  is  based  on  ideas  expressed  many  years  ago  by  the  late  Professor  Alfred  Garrod. 


3IO 


BRITISH   CENTRAL   AFRICA 


vestiges  of  the  second  and  fifth  metacarpal  and  metatarsal  bones  are  lost,  and 
even  the  false  hoofs  representing  these  missing  toes  are  often  flattened  and 
reduced  in  size  (so  that  some  Duykers  are  almost  completely  two-toed),  yet  in 
other  respects  they  may  be  regarded  as  a  low  type  of  antelope  not  far  removed 
from  the  central  stem  from  which  the  ring-homed  ruminants  branched  out 
The  nose  is  quite  naked  and  irresistibly  suggests  a  resemblance  to  that  feature 
in  the  pig-like  Dorcatherium  of  West  Africa,  which  is  the  nearest  living  repre- 
sentative of  the  type  from  which  all  existing  ruminating  Artiodactyles  sprang. 
I  believe  some  anatomists  have  discovered  minute  traces  of  an  upper  canine 
which  does  not  pierce  the  gum  in  the  young  of  Cephalophus,     The  species  of 


R  Lf  M  , 


DIAGRAM   SHOWING   ORIGIN   AND   RELATIONSHIPS  OF   MODERN   GROUPS  OF   HORNED  RUMINANTS 

this  genus  which  is  found  in  Nyasaland  is  the  common  Duyker,  Cephalophus 
grimmu 

A  remarkable  little  antelope  of  the  genus  Raphicerus  was  recently  discovered 
by  Mr.  Sharpe  at  the  south  end  of  Lake  Nyasa  and  sent  home.  It  proved 
to  be  a  new  species  of  Steinbok  and  was  named  R.  sharpei  after  its  discoverer. 
It  is  illustrated  in  the  Zoological  Society's  Proceedings  of  April  ist,  1897,  and 
is  closely  allied  to  the  Steinboks  of  South  Africa. 

The  little  Klipspringer  is  found  in  all  rocky  places  and  upon  high  mountains 
like  Mlanje.  The  stories  told  of  its  jumps  are  almost  as  marvellous  as  those  of 
the  Ibex  and  Chamois.  I  have  not  myself  witnessed  any  of  these  wonderful 
leaps  but  it  is  quite  conceivable  that  they  occur.  Exaggerated  stories  are  told 
of  its  being  able  to  place  all  four  feet  together  on  a  space  not  larger  than  a 
crown  piece.     Of  course  this  is  impossible,  but  it  can  stand  with  all  of  its  four 


ZOOLOGY 


3" 


feet  together  on  an  area  which  might  be  covered  by  a  very  small  saucer.  The 
fur  has  a  curious  brittle,  shiny  appearance,  as  though  the  hairs  were  thickening 
into  spines.  The  Oribi  of  British  Central  Africa  is  Ourebia  hastata  and  also 
comes  from  the  Portuguese  province  of  Mozambique. 

The  Reedbuck  of  British  Central   Africa  is  a  large  animal  of  the  gen\is 
Cervicapra,     The  variety  found  in  the  Mweru  district  has  a  well  marked  black 


r^ 


<^j 


A   KLIPSI'RINGER 


patch  on  the  crown  between  the  horns.^  I  have  sometimes  thought  that  the 
Reedbucks  (which  I  illustrate  on  next  page)  found  at  the  north  end  of  Nyasa 
were  exceptionally  large.  The  drawings  made  are  from  specimens  shot  by 
myself  in  1889.  At  the  time  the  beasts  were  killed  I  almost  thought  that  they 
were  a  small  species  of  Cobus  antelope,  a  genus  into  which  Cervicapra  insensibly 
melts.      The  Reedbuck  is  good  eating  and  ranks  next  to  the  Bushbuck  as 

^  So  states  Mr.  Oldfield  Thomas  in  his  paper  on  the  mammals  of  British  Central  Africa  ;  he  further 
says  that  similar  patches  have  been  noticed  in  South  African  specimens. 


112 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


A   MALE   KEEDBUCK 


palatable  meat  I  do  not  think  the  Reedbuck  is  met  with  on  high  mountains 
or  that  it  even  cares  much  for  hilly  country,  but  it  is  very  abundant  on  elevated 
plateaux  of  gentle  undulating  surface.  Ordinarily  it  frequents  the  grassy  plains 
and  answers  to  its  name  by  affecting  beds  of  high  reeds.     On  the   Nyasa- 

Tanganyika  plateau  one  used  to 
see  it  with  its  head  just  appear- 
ing out  of  the  high  grass  and 
tall  yellow  ground  orchids  of  the 
genus  Lissochilus} 

There  are,  as  I  have  said, 
five  species  of  Cobus^  or  water- 
buck,  to  wit: — (i)  the  well-known 
South  African  waterbuck  {Cobtis 
ellipsiprymnus) ;  (2)  the  nearly 
allied  Cobus  crawshayi\  (3)  the 
Lech  we  (Cobus  lechwe) ;  (4)  the 
Puku  {Cobus  vardont) ;  and  (5) 
the  Senga  Cobus  {Cobus  sen- 
ganus)  also  discovered  by  Mr. 
Crawshay.  The  common  water- 
buck  is  almost  the  largest 
member  of  the  genus.  The 
female,  as  is  the  case  throughout 
all  the  Cervicaprines,  is  without 
horns.  Crawshay's  waterbuck. 
which  is  found  in  the  Mweru 
district    and     probably    thence 

^  See  illustration,  page  208  in  Chapter 

A   MALE   REEDBUCK's   HEAD  VIII. 


ZOOLOGY 


313 


westward  to  the  vicinity  of  Angola  (where  a  closely  allied  form,  Cobus 
penricei  has  been  found),  is  slightly  smaller  than  the  common  waterbuck. 
The  waterbucks  of  Crawshay  and  Penrice  differ  from  the  common  species 
in  the  following  points: — The  horns  are  smaller  and  less  incurved,  the  rump 
is  yellow  white  instead  of  being  a  mere  white  streak  sandwiched  between 
two  patches  of  dun  colour.  Penrice's  waterbuck  differs  from  Crawshay's  very 
slightly  if  at  all.  The  known  specimens,  however,  are  slightly  larger  and  rather 
blacker  in  colour  and  the  horns  are  proportionately  shorter.  The  common 
waterbuck  is  extremely  hairy  especially  about  the  neck,  the  female  being  in  my 
opinion  even  hairier  than  the  male.  She  bears  an  extraordinarily  superficial 
resemblance  to  the  hind  of  a  large  species  of  deer.     These  animals  have  such  a 


MALE  WATERBUCK   {Cobus  ellipsiprymnus) 

strong  coarse  smell  (something  like  that  of  a  goat)  that  the  natives  say  they 
can  often  smell  them  before  they  see  them.  In  going  through  the  Elephant 
Marsh  with  natives  they  have  suddenly  commenced  sniffing  the  air  and  declared 
that  waterbuck  were  near,  and  they  have  been  usually  right.  From  this  cause 
and  also  because  it  is  coarse  and  tough  in  grain,  the  meat  of  the  waterbuck  is 
not  at  all  liked  by  Europeans,  though  I  have  found  the  flesh  of  the  female  and 
of  the  young  ones  just  tolerable  when  well  cooked.  The  Puku  is  not  found  in 
Nyasaland  proper,  but  it  is  fairly  abundant  in  the  country  west  of  the  Nyasa 
watershed  from  Lake  Mweru  southwards,  and  at  the  south  end  of  Lake 
Tanganyika.  This  animal  is  considerably  smaller  than  the  common  waterbuck. 
It  is  a  bright  chestnut  yellow  in  colour  and  does  not  assume  the  grey  tint  so 
characteristic  of  the  larger  waterbucks.  Mr.  Sharpe  states  that  it  is  still  found 
in  enormous  herds  about  the  river  Luapula  and  in  the  vicinity  of  Lake  Mweru. 
As  regards  its  habits,  it  is  fond  of  entering  the  water,  but  not  so  much  as  the 


3^4 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


closely  related  Cobus  lechwe.  A  smaller  Cobus  closely  allied  to  the  Puku  has 
recently  been  discovered  in  the  Senga  country  (Luangwa  Valley)  by  Mr. 
Crawshay  and  has  been  described  by  Mr.  Oldfield  Thomas  under  the  designa- 
tion of  Cobus  senganus.  In  colour  it  is  said  to  be  rather  darker  than  the 
Puku.  The  Lechwe  waterbuck  is  one  of  the  most  water-loving  antelopes 
known,  though  it  must  be  admitted  that  it  is  some  degrees  less  aquatic  than 
Speke's  Tragelaph  which  has  been  longer  at  this  mode  of  life  and  has  there- 
fore developed  very  remarkably  extended  hoofs.  The  Lechwe  though  having 
slightly  longer  hoofs  than  in  the  other  forms  of  Cobus,  does  not  present  any 
very  striking  development  of  the  foot  for  life  in  the  water,  except  that  at  the 


)fr'*/i^ 


FEMALE   WATERBUCK 


back  of  the  toes,  between  the  false  and  the  big  hoofs,  there  is  a  naked  place  not 
covered  with  hair.  Mr.  Sharpe  and  other  observers  relate  that  the  Puku  and 
Lechwe  constantly  associate  together  in  large  herds.  Up  to  the  present  time 
the  range  of  the  Lechwe  does  not  seem  to  extend  farther  north  than  Lake 
Mweru,  nor  farther  east  than  the  watershed  of  Lake  Nyasa. 

Amongst  other  heterodox  opinions  I  hold  that  the  Hippotragine  section  of 
antelopes,  including  the  Oryxes,  was  developed  from  a  form  of  waterbuck. 
This  would  appear  to  be  absurd  to  anyone  who  merely  looked  at  the  commoner 
forms  of  Cobus ;  but  that  remarkable  and  most  beautiful  antelope,  Mrs.  Gray's 
Waterbuck  {Cobus  marid)  of  the  White  Nile  irresistibly  suggests  in  the  shape  of 
its  horns  and  the  coloration  of  the  face  an  approach  to  the  Equine  antelopes 
which  again  have  given  rise  to  the  Addax  and  to  the  four  species  of  Oryx. 

The  Hippotragine  or  Equine  antelopes  are  represented  in   British  Central 


THE  SABLE  ANTELOPE 


ZOOLOGY  317 

Africa  by  the  Sable  and  the  Roan.  Curiously  enough  there  is  no  representative 
of  the  Oryx  genus  throughout  all  British  Central  Africa.  This  type  at  the  present 
day  is  confined  in  its  distribution  to  South  Africa,  East,  North-East  and  North 
Africa,  and  Southern  Arabia.  As  in  the  case  of  the  zebra,  of  the  giraffe,  and  of 
other  animals  quoted  there  is  a  complete  break  in  the  distribution  of  this  genus 
between  Mozambique  and  the  West  Coast  of  Africa.  The  Sable  antelope  is 
extremely  common.  Next  to  the  Kudu,  perhaps,  or  Mrs.  Gray's  Waterbuck,  it 
is  the  most  beautiful  antelope  that  exists.  As  large  as  a  small  ox  with  the 
graceful  shape  of  a  beautiful  stag,  the  colours  of  the  male  being  jet  black  and 
snow-white  (and  of  the  female  bright  chestnut-brown  and  white),  the  head 
surmounted  by  a  magnificent  pair  of  horns  symmetrically  ringed  and  describing 
almost  the  curve  of  a  half  circle,  the  long  neck  clothed  abundantly  with  a  black 
mane,  the  large,  long-lashed  eye,  and  the  tufted  tail,  make  up  a  beast  of  grand 
proportions,  striking  coloration  and  beautiful  detail,  whose  extermination  would 
be  one  of  the  worst  crimes  that  humanity  has  ever  perpetrated. 

Fortunately  the  Sable  antelope  is  still  extremely  common  in  Nyasaland 
though  it  is  not  certain  that  its  range  extends  east  over  the  Mozambique 
province,  or  westward  over  British  Central  Africa.  It  is  found,  I  believe,  on  the 
SaYsi  river  (on  the  eastern  portion  of  the  NyasarTanganyika  plateau).  I  think 
it  is  met  with  in  parts  of  East  Africa,  and  I  believe  that  I  saw  one  specimen  of 
it  near  Taveita  and  another  near  the  river  Ruvu,  as  far  north  as  the  Kilimanjaro 
district.  [It  is  sometimes  difficult  to  tell  at  a  distance  the  young  male  or  female 
Sable  from  a  Roan  antelope,  therefore  as  I  did  not  secure  the  beast  I  cannot 
speak  positively  on  this  latter  point  though  in  my  diary  I  wrote  most  positively 
on  this  occasion  that  I  had  seen  a  sable  and  was  struck  by  the  vivid  contrast 
between  its  black  and  white  coloration.]  In  any  case  it  is  not  confined 
to  South  Africa,  a  legend  still  appearing  in  circles  which  should  be  well 
informed.  At  the  present  time  it  is  one  of  the  commonest  antelopes  in  the 
Shire  Highlands  and  throughout  Nyasaland,  where  it  frequents  the  wooded 
hills  rather  than  the  low-lying  plains.  I  have  myself  only  seen  it  in  what 
might  be  called  scrub  country — rough  land  of  red  clay  and  rocks  on  which 
grow  trees  of  sparse  foliage  and  of  no  great  height.  In  spite  of  their  very 
marked  colours  both  the  male  and  female  sable  become  singularly  in- 
visible in  this  low  forest,  their  bodies  getting  mixed  up  with  the  glooms  of 
tree  trunks  in  black  shadow  or  brown  light  There  would  appear  to  be  these 
differences  between  the  sable  of  Nyasaland  and  that  of  South  Africa.  The 
Nyasaland  variety  is  rather  larger,  the  neck  is  somewhat  thicker  but  the  mane 
a  little  shorter  and  the  ears  are  slightly  longer  and  have  a  black  tip  at  the  end 
which  I  believe  is  missing  in  the  South  African  sable. 

It  would  seem  to  be  a  general  rule  that  where  the  sable  is  found  there  the 
roan  antelope,  its  near  congener;  is  not  to  be  met  with.  This  animal  is  coloured 
somewhat  like  the  immature  male  and  female  of  the  sable — chestnut  with  a 
tendency  to  black,  and  with  bold  white  markings.  Its  horns  are  not  so 
handsome  as  those  of  the  sable.  The  ears  are  even  longer  than  in  the 
sable  and  the  tips  more  recurved  and  ending  in  a  tuft  of  black  hair.^  In 
all  the  Hippotragine  antelopes  (including  the  Oryxes)  the  female  is  horned 
as  well  as  the  male,  a  sign,  of  course,  of  great  specialisation.  The  range  of 
the  roan  antelope  apparently  lies  mainly  outside  British  Nyasaland  though 
both  Mr.  Sharpe  and  myself  have  sometimes  thought  that  it  existed  in  the 
Ruo  district  and  across  that  river  in  Portuguese  territory,  and  it  has  been  shot 

^  The  culmination  of  this  development  of  the  ear  is  seen  in  the  fringe-eared  Oryx  {Oryx  calloiis). 


3i8  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

in  the  North  Nyasa  district  by  Mr.  G.  A.  Taylor.  It  undoubtedly  occurs  on 
the  east  coast  of  Lake  Nyasa  for  it  has  been  shot  there  by  Major  Frank 
Trollape.  To  the  west  of  Nyasaland  it  is  the  common  Hippotragine  species 
and  its  range  probably  extends  north  and  east  to  the  Egyptian  Sudan  and 
thence  westward  across  Nigeria  to  Senegambia.  A  third  species  of  Hippotragus 
— the  Blaubok — was  a  bluish-grey  in  colour  and  more  uniform  in  tint  with 
longer  hair  and  in  some  respects  more  suggestive  of  the  Cobus  antelopes. 
Like  many  other  remarkable  creatures  in  South  Africa  it  was  promptly 
exterminated  by  the  European  settlers. 

Probably  evolving  from  some  Cervicaprine  form  we  have  the  beautiful  pallah, 
or  mpala  antelope  (^pyceros  melavipns),  the  shape  of  whose  horns  will  be 
shown  in  the  accompanying  drawing  which  however  illustrates  the  small  Nyasa- 
land variety.  ^  The  coloration  of  the  pallah  is  a  rich  dark  chestnut  with  a  white 
stomach  and  a  black  longitudinal  mark   in  the  front  of  the  feet.      It  also  is 


A  KOAN  ANTELOPE   {H if>potragus  equtnus) 


marked  by  a  black  tuft  of  hair  on  the  inner  side  of  the  hind  legs  below  the 
tarsus.  The  lesser  pallah,  a  variety  named  after  myself  because  I  happened  to 
send  home  the  first  specimens,  is  the  one  usually  met  with  in  Nyasaland,  the 
larger  pallah  being  found  in  the  regions  to  the  west  and  east.  The  accompany- 
ing illustration  is  the  head  of  Johnston's  pallah  which  differs  from  the  more 
typical  animal  in  the  smaller  size  of  the  horns  and  body.  Mr.  Sharpe  states  that 
in  his  opinion  the  pallah  all  over  Central  Africa  affects  a  special  kind  of  countr>^ 
— forested  plains  with  open  glades  of  short  grass  not  far  removed  from  water. 

The  Nyasaland  Gnu  or  Wildebeest  would  appear  to  be  a  new  species. 
Hitherto  it  has  been  treated  as  a  new  variety  of  the  Blue  Wildebeest  {Con- 
nochoetes  taurinus).  The  first  specimen  sent  home  was  killed  by  Mr.  H.  C. 
McDonald  of  the  British  Central  Africa  Administration  in  the  vicinity  of  Lake 
Chilwa.  This  example  was  figured  in  the  Zoological  Society's  Proceedings 
for  1896.2  Subsequently  a  fine  specimen  of  this  gnu  was  killed  by  Mr.  James 
Harrison,  an  English  sportsman,  who  was  travelling  in  the  Portuguese  territories 
between  Quelimane  and  the  Protectorate.  Mr.  Harrison  also  saw  a  small 
herd  of  this  gnu  about  sixty  miles  to  the  south  of  Lake  Chilwa.     The  one 

*  A  good  drawing  of  the  head  of  the  larger  pallah  will  be  seen  in  my  book  on  the  Kilimanjaro 
Expedition,  page  219.  ^  p.  616. 


ZOOLOGY 


t 


JOHNSTON'S  PALLAH 


which   he   shot  he  obtained   about   thirty  miles  to  the   south-east  of  Mount 
Chiperone.^     I  should  say  that  the  Nyasa  gnu  (the  range  of  which  in  Nyasaland 

*  A  small  photograph  was  taken  of  the  head,  and  this  was  subsequently  sent  to  Mr.  W.  E.  de 
Winton,  an  English  naturalist,  who  is  making  a  special  study  of  African  mammals.  To  the  courtesy  of  Mr. 
dc  Winton  I  owe  the  loan  of  Mr.  Harrison's  photograph  from  which  together  with  other  data  I  possessed  I 
have  made  the  accompanying  drawing  of  the  head  of  the  Nyasa  gnu.  Mr.  Harrison's  photograph  is  par- 
ticularly valuable  for  this  reason.     It  confirms  the  presence  on  the  head  of  this  gnu  of  a  white  chevron 


320 


BRITISH   CENTRAL   AFRICA 


THE  NY  AS  ALAND  GNU   {Cottnochates  taurinus  johmtoni) 

appears  to  be  confined  to  the  vicinity  of  Lake  Chilwa  and  to  the  Elephant  Marsh  ^) 
is  the  least  differentiated  of  all  the  gnus  and  bears  more  signs  of  relationship 
to  certain  forms  of  hartebeest. 

The  position  and  origin  of  the  gnu  in  the  classification  of  the  antelopes  has 
always  been  a  difficult  one  for  naturalists  to  settle.  It  is  obviously  a  very 
specialised  animal  and  yet  in  some  respects  it  retains  more  primitive  charac- 
teristics than  the  hartebeest.  For  instance,  the  female  has  four  tnamitKB,  whereas 
in  the  hartebeests  there  are  only  two.  Also  the  length  of  the  head  is  not  so 
disproportionately  great  as  in  the  hartebeest  though  it  possesses  a  peculiar 

across  the  ridge  of  the  nose  just  below  the  line  of  the  eyes.  This  white  mark  had  become  somewhat 
effaced  in  the  dry  skin  which  we  sent  home,  and  its  extent  and  direction  were  not  sufBciently  realised  by 
the  artist  who  drew  the  picture  for  the  Zoological  Society's  Proceedings.  Mr.  Harrison's  photograph  is 
important,  therefore,  as  showing  the  proper  direction  taken  by  the  white  marking  of  the  face  and  the  clear- 
ness of  this  marking  which  has  a  definite  outline,  and  is  not  hazy  as  represented  m  the  Zoological  Society's 
plate.  The  presence  of  this  white  mark  across  the  face,  together  with  other  peculiarities,  almost  constitutes 
the  gnu  of  Nyasaland  a  different  species  to  the  Blue  Wildebeests  of  South  and  East  Africa.  If  this  is  the 
case  it  will  be  another  curious  instance  of  the  closer  relationship  in  mammalian  types  which  subsists 
between  North-East  and  South  Africa  as  compared  to  South-Central  Africa.  It  will  be  a  parallel  to  the 
eland  and  the  zebra. 

*  Though  the  existence  of  a  gnu  is  reported  from  the  Luangwa  Valley,  west  of  the  Protectorate. 


ZOOLOGY  321 

development,  of  its  own  in  the  great  breadth  across  the  nose.  On  the  whole, 
I  should  think  it  likely  that  the  gnu  developed  from  an  early  type  of  hartebeest 
somewhat  similar  to  Bubalis  swaynei. 

One  point  about  the  gnu  used  to  puzzle  naturalists  like  Dr.  Gray,  who 
founded  their  classification  too  much  on  external  characters,  and  that  was  that 
the  gnu  had  no  rings  on  its  horns.  They  were  apt  therefore  to  dissociate  it 
from  its  nearest  congeners  among  the  antelopes  and  to  class  it  with  an 
extraordinarily  far-removed  animal — the  Budorcas  of  Tibet.  Yet  the  gnu  really 
belongs  to  the  group  of  antelopes  and  is  derived  from  a  form  which  once  had 
rings  on  its  horns.  Traces  of  these  rings  may  not  only  be  seen  on  the  horns  of 
the  most  northern  species  of  gnu,  the  white  bearded  gnu  of  East  Africa 
{Connockcetes  albojubatus)  but  are  present  on  the  under  side  and  in  the 
inner  bend  of  the  horns  in  female  gnus  when  they  have  not  had  time  to  wear 
the  marks  away  by  rubbing  the  horns  on  the  ground  or  against  trees.  The  male 
gnu,  however,  has  completely  lost  any  trace  of  annulation,  and  in  this  resembles 
(as  a  parallel  case)  the  Budorcas  of  Tibet,  and  the  musk-sheep  {Ovibos)  of 
North  America,  both  of  which  animals  are  aberrant  types  of  Capricoms, 
a  central  group  having  annulated  horns  (though  the  annulation  on  the  horns 
of  the  Capricorns  is  less  marked  than  in  the  antelopes,  goats  and  sheep).  On 
the  whole  I  think  the  Nyasaland  gnu  from  the  shape  of  the  horns  and  the  fact 
that  the  face  is  almost  entirely  without  the  great  black  brush  which  grows  on  it 
in  the  other  gnus,  is  the  least  differentiated  of  all  the  species  of  this  remarkable 
genus  and  comes  nearest  to  a  generalised  type  of  hartebeest 

We  are  now  left  with  no  order  to  discuss  amongst  the  mammals  but  the 
Edentates,  the  River  Shire  and  the  great  lakes  being  without  any  cetaceous 
animals  such  as  the  peculiar  river  dolphins  which  are  found  in  the  Amazon  and 
the  Ganges.  The  Edentates,  as  far  as  I  know,  are  only  represented  by  one  type 
— the  Manis  or  scaly  Ant-eater.  The  Manis  of  British  Central  Africa  is  the 
short-tailed  species^  which  extends  in  its  range  right  across  Africa  from  the 
west  coast  to  Natal  and  to  Somaliland.  It  is  very  common  in  Nyasaland,  but 
only  in  the  well-wooded  country.  Its  food  consists  of  white  ants  and  other 
insects.  This  animal  has  an  extraordinary  power  of  escaping  from  almost  any 
prison.  Its  powerful  claws  and  the  extraordinary  leverage  which  it  can  exert 
by  means  of  its  limbs  and  the  tripod  they  form  with  tJie  tail,  the  smallness 
of  its  head  and  its  remarkable  "  squeezability  "  and  power  of  burrowing  enable 
the  Manis  to  obtain  egress  from  almost  any  place  of  confinement  It  can  on 
occasions  dig  up  cement  with  its  claws  by  scratching  it  away  from  the  edge  of 
the  wall.  When  shy  and  annoyed  the  Scaly  Ant-eater  rolls  itself  up  into  a  ball. 
It  is  then  an  awkward  animal  to  lift  and  carry  away  as  the  fingers  may  get 
between  the  interstices  of  the  sharp-edged  scales  and  be  severely  pinched.  The 
animal  seems  to  know  this  and  promptly  contracts  so  as  to  catch  the  fingers 
between  the  sharp  edges. 

The  Orycteropus,  or  Aard  Vark,  of  South  and  East  Africa  is  so  far  as  I  know 
entirely  absent  from  British  Central  Africa — another  animal  whose  range  is 
interrupted  by  this  section  of  the  continent  It  may  yet  be  found  (and  if  so  it 
will  probably  be  met  with  in  the  Luangwa  Valley  or  about  Lake  Mweru)  but 
no  report  of  its  existence  has  as  yet  come  to  hand.^ 

^  Manis  temmincki, 

*  It  b  a  curious  point  that  such  southern  or  eastern  forms  as  are  absent  from  Nyasaland  but  are  still 
found  in  British  Central  Africa  are  usually  met  with  in  the  Mweni  district.  The  country  between  Mweru 
and  Tanganyika  would  appear  to  be  rather  dry  and  desert-like,  and  more  resembling  the  harsh  steppes  of 
Equatorial  East  Africa  and  of  South  Africa. 

21 


322  BRITISH   CENTRAL   AFRICA 


APPENDIX   I. 

LIST  OF  MAMMALS  RECORDED  IN  BRITISH  CENTRAL  AFRICA 

Note. — This  list  is  principally  based  on  the  work  of  Mr.  Oldfield  Thomas,  of  the  Mammalian  Deport- 
ment at  the  British  Museum  of  Natural  Hbtory.  This  work  is  summed  up  in  Mr.  Thomas's  paper  in  the 
Zoological  Society's  Proceedings  for  April,  1897.  The  arrangement  of  the  species,  however,  is  my 
own.  In  order  to  make  the  list  complete  I  have  also  inserted  between  brackets  species  known  to  be 
present  in  British  Central  Africa,  though  not  represented  by  specimens  sent  to  the  British  Museum  or 
Zoological  Gardens.  Where  the  species  was  new  to  science  and  made  known  through  our  collections, 
sp.  nov,  is  placed  after  the  name. 

Order,  Primates. 
[ffomo  sapiens y  sub-species  cetkiops  ;  Bantu  negroes.] 

Fapio  babuin  ;  the  Yellow  Baboon. 

Represented  by  live  animal  in  Zoological  Gardens. 

Papio  pruinosus  {sp.  nov.);  the  Grey  Baboon. 

Discovered  by  Dr.  Percy  Rendall  at  the  south  end  of  Lake  Nyasa.  A  remark- 
able new  species  with  fur  of  a  hoary  grey  and  dirty  white  colour,  nearly  allied  to 
Papto  thoth  of  North-East  Africa. 

Cercocebus  aterrimus ;  the  Black  Mangabey. 

Living  specimen  obtained  by  me  from  Lake  Tanganyika  and  presented  to 
Zoological  Gardens.  Its  actual  habitat  on  the  shores  of  Lake  Tanganyika  was 
uncertain.  It  was  given  to  me  by  an  Arab  of  Ujiji— -said  to  come  from  N.  Tangan- 
yika ;  scarcely  to  be  included  in  a  list  of  British  Central  African  mammals  except 
that  natives  state  the  animal  is  also  found  in  South  Tanganyika  and  on  the  Luapula 
River  :  a  regular  West  African  type. 

Cercopithecus  opisthostictus  {sp,  nov). 

Discovered  by  Mr.  Richard  Crawshay  in  the  Lake  Mweru  district :  allied  to 
C.  samango  of  South  Africa  {vide  P.Z.S.  of  November  21,  1893). 

Cercopithecus  albigularis ;  the  white-throated  grivet  Monkey  from  the  Shire  province, 
but  probably  spread  throughout  British  Central  Africa. 

Cercopithecus  moloneyi ;  Moloney's  monkey. 

\Cercopithecus pygerythrus\\  the  russet-rumped  grivet  Monkey. 

Probably  this  is  the  common  species  of  grivet  so  often  seen  as  pets  in  European 
settlements. 

Cercopithecus  stairsi ;  Stairs*s  monkey  (P.Z.S.  1892,  p.  580). 

Colobus  palliatus  ;  the  white-thighed  Colobus  Monkey. 

Found  abundantly  in  the  forested  mountain  regions  to  the  west  and  north-west 
of  Lake  Nyasa  and  thence  westward  to  the  Congo  Free  State.  This  species  is  also, 
I  believe,  found  on  high  mountains  in  East  Africa;  otherwise  its  affinities  are 
mainly  West  African. 

Otogale  kirki ;  the  Great  Galago. 

This  lemuroid  has  hitherto  only  been  met  with  in  the  Shire  province. 

Galago  moholi. 


ZOOLOGY  323 

Order,  Chiroptera. 
Epomophorus  crypturus  ;  the  Hidden-tailed  Fruit  Bat. 
Xaniharpyia  siraminea  ;  the  Yellow  Fox-Bat. 
Rhinohphus  hildebranti\ 

Rhinolophus  landeri        vHorseshoenosed  Bats. 
Rhinolophus  capensis      J 
Hipposiderus  caffer. 
NycUris  hispida, 
Vesperugo  megalurus. 
Vesper Hgb  rendalli  {sp.  nov.)  \  Rendall's  Bat. 

Discovered  by  Dr.  Kendall ;  a  remarkable  white-winged  Bat. 
Vesperugo  nanus, 
Scotophilus  nigrita. 

Order,  Insectivora. 

Rhynchocyon  cirnei ;  long-nosed  jumping  Shrew. 
Petrodromus  tetradaciylus ;  rock-jumping  Shrew. 
Crocidura  (species  undetermined) ;  small  musk  Shrew. 

Order,  Carnivora. 
Felis  leo;  the  Lion. 

Felts  pardus  ;  the  Leopard, 

Felis  serval ;  the  Serval. 

Felis  caffra;  the  Kaffir  Cat. 

\Cynalurus  jubatus'\  \  the  Cheetah,  found  on  Nyasa-Tanganyika  Plateau. 

Hycena  crocuta  ;  the  spotted  Hygena. 

Viverra  civetta  ;  the  Civet. 

[Genet ta  ligrina];  the  blotched  Genet 

Nandinia  gerrardi;  Gerrard's  Paradoxure ;  the  "  Palm  Civet,"  found  in  N.  Nyasaland. 
Related  to  West  African  forms. 

S£?S> }  i^*'"—  - "  ^-«— •" 

Rhyncogale  melleri;  the  fruit-eating  Mongoose. 
Crossarchus  fasciatus ;  the  banded  Mongoose. 

Allied  to  a  West  African  form,  and  also  found  in  South  Africa. 
Canis  lateralis  or  Canis  adustus  ;  the  side-striped  Jackal. 
Lycaon  pictus ;  the  Hunting  Dog. 

Shot  by  Mr.  Crawshay  in  the  Lake  Mweru  district,  and  by  Mr.  Sharpe  at  Zomba, 
and  reported  from  the  Luangwa  Valley  and  North  Zambezia  (M.  Edouard  Foa). 

Foecilogale  aibinucha ;  a  white-necked  weasel. 

[Mellivora  ratel] ;  the  Honey-Badger. 

I  have  had  the  young  of  this  animal  in  my  possession. 
Lutra  maculicollis ;  spotted-necked  Otter. 
[Lutra capensis {!)]',  the  Cape  Otter. 

It  is  thought  that  dried  skins  of  this  animal  have  been  seen  in  the  natives' 
possession. 


324  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

Order,  Rodentia. 

Sciurus  mutabilis  ;  the  changeable  Squirrel. 

Sciurtis  palliatus  ;  the  pale  Scjuirrel. 

Anomalurus  cinereus;  the  grey  flying  Squirrel. 

Mr.  Oldfield  Thomas  adds  this  flying  Squirrel  to  his  list  of  Nyasaland  mammals 
as  it  was  procured  by  another  collection,  not  of  our  sending,  from  "  Upper  Ruvuma 
River,  towards  Lake  Nyasa."  It  would  therefore  come  within  the  British  Central 
African  province  as  defined  by  me.  No  specimen  of  a  Flying  Squirrel  has  yet 
been  sent  home  from  within  the  actual  limits  of  the  British  Central  Africa 
Protectorate. 

Otomys  irroratus. 

Gerbillus  afer;  the  Jerboa  Rat. 

Cricetomys  gambianus ;  the  Gambian  Bush  Rat. 

Golunda  fallax. 

Arvicanthis  dorsalis, 

Arvicanihis  pumilio, 

Mus  rattus;  the  common  Black  Rat. 

Mus  dolichurus ;  the  long-tailed  Tree  Rat. 

Mus  natalensis. 

Mus  modestus. 

Mus  minutoides, 

Mus  incomtus. 

Saccostomus  campestris. 

Acomys  spinossissimus ;  the  Spiny  Mouse. 

Obtained  by  Dr.  Percy  Rendall  in  the  South  Nyasa  district. 
Dendromys  mesomelas, 
SUatomys  protettsis, 
Lophurotnys  aguilus. 
Myoscaiops  argento-cintreus. 
Aulacodus  swindcrenianus ;  the  Ground  Rat. 

"  Excellent  eating."— H.  H.  J. 

\Hystrix^  sp.  inc^  \  Porcupine. 

From  the  quills  in  the  natives*  possession  there  must  be  a  porcupine  in  the 
country,  but  the  species  is  not  yet  determined.  Native  name :  nungu.  A  smaller 
species  called  "  kanungu  "  is  stated  to  exist  also. 

Lepus  whytei  (sp.  nov.) ;  Whyte's  Hare. 

Order,  Ungulata. 
Sub-order,  Hyracoidea. 

Frocavia  johnsioni  {sp.  nov.)',  Johnston's  Hyrax. 
Procavia  brucei ;  Bruce*s  Hyrax. 

Sub  order,  Proboscidea. 
Ekphas  africanus  ;  the  African  Elephant. 


ZOOLOGY  325 

Sub-order,  Perissodactyia. 
Rhinoceros  bicornis  ;  the  common  African  Rhinoceros. 
[Rhinoceros  simus  ^] ;  the  square-lipped  (white)  Rhinoceros. 

A  pair  of  horns  from  the  River  Ruo  was  sent  home  in  1893  which  strongly 
resembled  those  of  the  '*  white  "  rhinoceros. 

Equus  iigrinus;  the  Central  African  Zebra. 

This  I  take  as  the  type  of  the  species  of  large  Zebra  of  the  plains,  of  which 
Equus  iigrinus  burchelliy  E,  t  chapmani^  and  E,  t.  granti  are  sub-species. 

Sub-order,  Artiodactyla, 

Poiamocharus  johnsloni ;  Johnston's  Bush  pig. 

A  connecting  link  between  the  True  pigs  {Sus)  and  the  Bush  pigs  {Poiamo- 
choerus), 

Potamochcerus  africanus ;  the  Bush  Pig, 

Allied  to  the  Red  River  hog  of  West  Africa. 
Phacocharus  athiopicus  ;  the  Wart  Hog. 
[Giraffa  camelopardalis]  ;  the  Giraffe. 

Reported  to  exist  in  the  Luangwa  Valley  and  in  Ubena,  N.E.  of  I^ke  Nyasa. 
Tragelaphus  scriptus^  var,  roualeyni ;  Gordon  Cumming*s  Bushbuck. 

The  common  bushbuck  of  South  and  East  Africa. 
Tragelaphus  angasi ;  the  Inyala.     (P.Z.S.  1892,  p.  98;  1893,  p.  507  and  p.  729.) 

Occurs  along  the  west  side  of  the  River  Shire  and  also  in  the  Lake  Mweru 
district.  This  handsome  Tragelaph  is  probably  found  in  other  parts  of  British 
Central  Africa  as  well  as  in  Natal  and  South-East  Africa. 

Tragelaphus  spekei  ;  Speke's  Tragelaph. 

Lives  almost  entirely  in  the  water.  Frequents  the  swamps  of  Bangweolo,  Mweru 
and  the  River  Luapula. 

Strepsiceros  kudu  ;  the  Kudu. 

Oreas  canna  livingsionii ;  Livingstone's  Eland.     The  white-striped  Eland. 

Bos  caffer;  the  Cape  Buffalo. 

Cephalophus  grimmi ;  the  common  Duyker  Antelope. 

Oreoiragus  saiiator;  the  Klipspringer. 

Ourebia  hastata  ;  Peters'  Oribi. 

\Ourebia  scoparia  T\  \  the  Cape  Oribi. 

This  animal  is  briefly  recorded  in  our  collections  from  Lake  Chilwa  by  Mr. 
Oldfield  Thomas  under  the  name  of  Nanotragus  scoparius  (P.Z.S.  1894,  p.  146). 
As  he  has  not  repeated  the  name  in  his  recent  list  of  British  Central  Africa 
mammals  it  may  be  that  the  specimens  have  since  been  referred  to  Peters'  Oribi. 

Raphicerus  sharpei  {sp,  nov,) ;  Sharpe's  Steinbok. 
Cervicapra  arundinum  ;  the  Reedbuck. 
Cobus  vardoni ;  the  Puku. 

This  waterbuck,  of  which  I  have  horns  in  my  collection,  has  been  killed  by  Mr. 
Sharpe  in  the  Luangwa  Valley  and  in  the  Mweru  district. 

Cobus  senganus  ;  the  Senga  Puku. 

A  smaller  species  of  Puku  discovered  by  Mr.  R.  Crawshay  in  Northern  Senga. 


326  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

Cobus  lechwe  ;  the  Lech  we  Waterbuck. 

Found  by  Mr.  Sharpe  in  the  Mweru  district,  its  farthest  (known)  northward  range. 
Cobus  crawshayi  (sp.  nov.) ;  Crawshay's  Waterbuck. 

Discovered  by  Mr.  R.  Crawshay  in  the  Lake  Mweru  district ;  remarkably  similar 
to  Penrice's  waterbuck  in  South-West  Africa. 

Cobus  ellipsiprymnus  ;  the  common  Waterbuck. 

^pyceros  melampus  ;  the  Pallah  or  Impala  Antelope. 

The  larger  pallah— the  common  type — is  apparently  found  all  over  British 
Central  Africa  to  the  west  of  the  Nyasaland  province  {^ide  P.Z.S.  1893,  p.  728): 
but  in  Nyasaland  and  the  adjoining  territory  of  Portuguese  East  Africa  the  small 
Johnston's  Pallah  (-^E.  melampus  johnsioni^  sub-species  nov.)  is  the  prevailing  or 
exclusively  represented  type  {vide  P.Z.S. ). 

\Pamaliscus  sp.  inc^  ;  the  Tsess^be  ? 

Mr.  Sharpe  believes  he  has  seen  in  the  Luangwa  Valley  an  antelope  allied  to  or 
identical  with  the  Tsess^be — or  "Sassaby" — of  South  Africa.  Mr.  Poulett 
Weatherley  reports  the  same  animal  to  exist  in  the  Lake  Bangweolo  district. 

Bubalis  lichtensteini ;  Lichtenstein's  Hartebeest. 

Connochoetes  taurinus  johnstoni  (sub  species  nov,) ;  the  Nyasaland  Gnu. 

Found  in  south-east  Nyasaland.  A  gnu  is  reported  by  the  natives  to  exist  in 
south-west  Nyasaland  and  in  the  Luangwa  Valley  and  on  parts  of  the  Tanganyika 
plateau.  This  may  be  the  ordinary  C.  taurinus  (Blue  Wildebeest)  or  \hQ  johnstoni 
variety.  The  sub-species  is  determined  by  specimens  shot  by  Mr.  H.  C.  McDonald 
of  the  B.C. A. A.,  and  by  Messrs.  James  Harrison  and  Kirby. 

Hippotragus  equinus ;  the  Roan  Antelope.     (P.Z.S.  1893,  p.  728.) 

This  animal  is  not  usually  found  concurrently  with  its  near  ally,  the  sable 
antelope.  It  is  consequently  rare  in  or  absent  from  Nyasaland  proper  (except  in 
the  N.  Nyasa  and  the  Ruo  districts),  but  is  common  to  the  west  in  the  Luangwa 
Valley,  Mweru,  and  Tanganyika  districts. 

Hippotragus  niger ;  the  Sable  Antelope. 

Common  in  Nyasaland,  and  said  to  be  present  in  German  and  Portuguese  East 
Africa. 

Order,    Edentata. 

Sub-order,  Mams. 
Manis  temminckii ;  the  Scaly  Ant-eater. 


APPENDIX    II. 
GAME    REGULATIONS    OF    BRITISH    CENTRAL    AFRICA 

1.  These  Regulations  shall  apply  to  the  killing,  hunting,  and  capturing  of  all  wild 
beasts  within  the  Protectorate. 

2.  For  the  purposes  of  these  Regulations — 

"Game  reserve"  means  all  the  territories  within  the  boundaries  of  the  Elephant 
Marsh  Reserve  and  the  Lake  Chilwa  Reserve  respectively,  as  the  same  are  described 
in  the  first  schedule;  and 


ZOOLOGY 


327 


"Kill,  hunt,  or  capture"  includes  killing,  hunting,  or  capturing  by  any  methods, 
also  all  attempts  to  kill,  hunt,  or  capture,  and  "hunt"  includes  molesting  in  any 
manner. 

5.  The  Commissioner  may  from  time  to  time,  with  the  approval  of  the  Secretary 
of  State,  proclaim  any  other  territory  as  a  game  reserve,  or  may,  by  Proclamation, 
extend  or  restrict  the  limits  of  any  game  reserve;  and  thereupon  these  Regulations 
shall  apply  to  the  territories  affected  by  any  such  Proclamation  as  if  they  had  been 
constituted  game  reserves  by  these  Regulations. 

4.  The  Commissioner  may  in  his  discretion  grant  licences  in  such  form  as  he 
thinks  fit  in  accordance  with  the  following  scale  as  regards  the  animals  authorized  to 
be  killed,  hunted,  or  captured,  the  local  limits  to  which  the  licence  extends,  and  the 
p>ayments  to  be  made  for  the  respective  licences,  that  is  to  say: — 


LiCENCB. 

Wild  Bbast. 

Local  Limits.                      Payment. 

i 

Licence  (A)     . 
Licence  (B)     . 
Licence  (C)     . 

Any  wild  beast  mentioned  in 
Schedule  II.       .         .         . 

Any  wild  beast  mentioned  in 
Schedule  II.,  Part  II. 

Ditto 

Any  port  of  the  Protectorate    . 

Ditto 

Except  within  a  game  reserve. 

3 

Licence  (A)  includes  the  right  to  kill,  hunt,  or  capture  any  wild  beast  whether 
mentioned  in  Schedule  II.  or  not 

Licences  (B)  and  (C^  include  the  right  to  kill,  hunt,  or  capture  any  wild  beast 
except  those  mentioned  m  Schedule  II.,  Part  I. 

None  of  these  licences  entitles  the  holder  to  kill,  hunt,  or  capture  any  wild  beast 
upon,  or  to  trespass  upon,  private  property  without  the  consent  of  the  owner  or 
occupier. 

5.  A  person  may  without  any  licence  kill,  hunt,  or  capture  any  wild  beast  not 
mentioned  in  Schedule  II.  in  any  part  of  the  Protectorate,  except  within  a  game 
reserve  or  on  private  property. 

6.  The  Commissioner  may  in  his  discretion  grant  any  licence  for  which  a  higher 
rate  is  payable  in  substitution  for  a  licence  for  which  a  lower  rate  is  payable,  on 
payment  of  the  difference,  or  he  may  on  such  payment  make  the  existing  licence 
available,  by  indorsement,  as  if  it  had  been  originally  granted  at  the  higher  rate. 

7.  Every  licence  shall  be  in  force  for  one  year  from  its  date,  and  shall  then  expire, 
and  every  substituted  or  indorsed  licence  shall  be  in  force  for  the  residue  of  the  year 
for  which,  the  original  licence  was  granted. 

8.  Any  person  who  kills,  hunts,  or  captures  any  wild  beast  in  contravention  of 
these  Regulations  shall,  on  conviction,  be  liable  to  the  following  penalties,  that  is  to 
say: — 

(a.)  If  without  the  proper  licence  he  kills,  hunts,  or  captures  any  wild  beast 
mentioned  in  Schedule  II.,  Part  I.,  he  shall  be  liable  to  a  fine  not  exceeding  50/.,  and,, 
in  default,  to  imprisonment  for  three  months. 

(^.)  If  without  the  proper  licence  he  kills,  hunts,  or  captures  any  wild  beast 
mentioned  in  Schedule  II.,  Part  II.,  he  shall  be  liable  to  a  fine  not  exceeding  20/.,  or,, 
in  default,  to  imprisonment  for  two  months. 


328 


BRITISH    CENTRAL    AFRICA 


(c.)  If  without  holding  any  licence  under  these  Regulations  he  kills,  hunts,  or 
captures  any  animal  whatever  within  a  game  reserve,  or  is  found  within  a  game  reserve 
under  such  circumstances  as  to  show  that  he  was  in  pursuit  of  animals,  and  was  not 
lawfully  employed  there,  he  shall  be  liable  to  a  fine  not  exceeding  5/.,  or,  in  default, 
to  imprisonment  for  one  month,  without  prejudice  to  his  liability  to  any  other  penalty 
under  this  Regulation. 

9.  Nothing  in  these  Regulations  shall  be  deemed  to  relieve  any  person  from  the 
obligation  of  taking  out  any  licence  which  for  the  time  being  is  required  to  be  taken 
out  for  possessing  or  using  a  gun. 

10.  The  Regulations  of  the  9th  September,  1896,  for  the  preservation  of  wild 
game  in  certain  parts  of  the  Protectorate  are  hereby  repealed. 

11.  These  Regulations  may  be  cited  as  "The  Game  Regulations,  1897." 


SCHEDULE    I. 
Game  Reserves. 

I.   The  Elephant  Marsh  Reserve, 

Commencing  at  the  junction  of  the  Ruo  and  Shire  Rivers,  the  boundary  of  the  Elephant  Marsh 
Reserve  shall  follow  the  right  bank  of  the  River  Ruo  as  far  as  the  Txa,  Falls,  and  shall  thence  be 
carried  along  in  a  straight  line  in  a  north-westerly  direction  until  it  strikes  the  left  bonk  of  the  River 
Shire  opposite  the  junction  of  the  Mwanza  with  the  Shire ;  the  boundary  shall  then  cross  the  River 
Shire  and  follow  the  right  bank  of  the  Mwanza  River  up  stream  to  a  point  distant  from  the  Shire 
12  miles  in  a  straight  line;  thence  the  boundary  shall  run  in  a  southerly  direction,  keeping  always  at 
a  distance  of  12  miles  from  the  right  bank  of  the  Shire  River  until  it  reaches  the  boundary-line  dividing 
the  Lower  Shire  district  from  the  Ruo.  It  shall  then  follow  that  boundary-line  in  an  easterly  direction 
until  it  strikes  the  right  bank  of  the  Shire  River ;  the  boundary  shall  then  follow  the  right  bank  of  the 
Shire  River  up  stream  to  a  point  opposite  the  point  of  commencement,  namely,  the  junction  of  the 
Shire  and  the  Ruo  Rivers. 

2.   The  Lake  Chilwa  Reserve, 

Commencing  at  the  source  of  the  River  Palombe  in  the  Mlanje  district,  the  boundary  of  the  Lake 
Chilwa  Reserve  shall  be  carried  in  an  easterly  direction  to  the  source  of  the  most  southern  affluent  of 
the  River  Sombani,  and  from  this  point  shall  be  carried  along  a  straight  line  in  an  easterly  direction  to 
the  Anglo-Portuguese  frontier,  which  it  shall  follow  to  the  shores  of  Lake  Chilwa.  The  boundary  shall 
continue  along  the  shore  of  the  lake  southward,  westward,  and  northward,  as  ^  as  the  confluence  of 
the  Likangala  River.  It  shall  then  follow  the  course  of  the  Likangala  River  up  stream  as  far  as  the 
eastern  boundary  of  Messrs.  Buchanan  Brothers'  Mlungusi  estate,  thence  along  the  said  eastern  boundary 
of  the  said  estate  southwards  to  a  point  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Ntondwe  River.  It  shall  then  follow 
the  northern  boundary  of  Mr.  Bruce's  Namasi  estate  eastwards  until  the  said  boundary  reaches  the 
Palombe  River,  thence  along  the  right  bank  of  the  Palombe  River  up  stream  to  its  source. 


SCHEDULE   II. 
Part  I. 

Wild  beasts  in  respect  of  which  licence  (A)  is  required  :— 

Elephant.  Giraffe. 

Rhinoceros.  Gnu  (Wildebeest). 


ZOOLOGY 


329 


Part  II. 
Wild  beasts  in  respect  of  which  licence  (B)  or  licence  (C)  is  required : — 


Zebra. 

Wart  hog  {Phcuocha-rus), 

Bush  pig  (Potamocharus), 

Buffalo. 

Eland. 

Kudu. 

Situtunga  ( Tragelaphus  spekei), 

Inyala  (7*.  angasii), 

Bushbuck  (T:  scriptus,) 

Duyker  {Cephalophm), 

Oribi  {OureSia). 

Sharpens  antelope  (Raphicerus  sharpd). 


Klipspringer. 

Reedbuck. 

Puku  (Cobus  vardoni), 

Scnga  Puku  (C.  senganus). 

Lech  we  (C.  lechwe). 

Crawshay's  Cobus  (C  crawshayi), 

Waterbuck  (C.  ellipsiprymnus). 

Impala  {^pyceros  melanipus), 

Hartebeest  {Bubalis). 

Tsessebe  (Damaliscm), 

Sable  antelope. 

Roan  antelope. 


THE   ELEPHANT  MARSH 


As  to  the  Avi-fauna :  it  is  a  country  singularly  rich  in  bird  life.  Amongst 
the  birds,  however,  occur  the  same  curious  gaps  in  the  distribution  of  species 
and  genera  which  are  found  to  the  south  of  the  Zambezi  and  in  East  Africa 
but  are  wanting  in  this  south-central  part  of  the  continent.  The  ostrich, 
and  the  secretary-vulture,  three  genera  of  true  vultures,  nearly  all  the  genera 
and  species  of  African  larks  and  of  bustards  are  represented  in  Africa  south 
of  the  Zambezi,  skip  British  Central  Africa,  and  reappear  again  north  of  the 
Rufiji  River  extending  thence  northwards  and  westwards  through  East  Africa, 
across  the  Sudan  to  Senegambia.  There  is  a  great  paucity  of  species  or 
genera  amongst  the  guinea  fowl ;  practically  the  only  guinea  fowl  ordinarily 
fourid  in  British  Central  Africa  is  the  common  species,  the  origin  of  the 
domestic  bird,  though  Guttera  edouardi,  the  crested  guinea  fowl  is  met  with 
near  the  Zambezi  and  on  the  Mozambique  Coast.     The  sand  grouse  is  only 


330  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

found  in  one  part  of  British  Central  Africa,  in  the  Mweru  district^  There 
may  be  other  examples  to  be  quoted ;  but  no  doubt  the  break  in  distribution 
is  less  marked  amongst  the  birds  (which  have  easier  means  of  distribution 
and  are  less  subject  to  the  attacks  of  man)  than  among  the  mammals.  It 
will  also  be  found  that  this  breach  in  continuous  distribution  is  less  and  less 
apparent  amongst  reptiles  and  Batrachians,  fishes  and  invertebrates.  It  is 
practically  confined  to  birds  and  mammals. 

And  now  to  notice  some  of  the  more  remarkable  birds  which  meet  the 
traveller's  eye  or  deserve  his  attention  in   British  Central   Africa.     Amongst 
the  Passerines  there  are  two  crows — possibly  three — the  great  white -necked 
raven  (Corvultur  albicollis)  the  common  black  and  white  crow  [Conms  scapu- 
latus)  and,  I  think,  the  black  rook  or  crow,  of  South  Africa  {Corvus  capensis). 
Of  this  last  named  no  specimen  has  been  sent  home,  but  I  have  seen  it — or 
a   bird   singularly  like   it,  entirely  black    in   plumage — on  the  upper  part   of 
Mount  Mlanje  and  on  the  higher  plateaux  of  Zomba  mountain.     Of  the  two 
first  named  crows  the  white- necked  raven   is  extremely  common  in  all   the 
hill  country,  while  the  black  and  white  crow  (though  also  visiting  the  hills) 
replaces   the    larger    bird    in    the    plains.      The    white- necked   raven   has    an 
enormous  beak  from  which  feature  the  bird  is  named  Corvultur.     It  is  even 
larger  than  the  common   raven  and   very  handsome,   its   body   being  shiny, 
almost  bluish  black  and  deep  dull  sepia  black,  with  a  large  white  patch  on 
the  back  of  the  neck,  extending  downwards  till  it  nearly  forms  a  white  collar.- 
The   common  black   and   white  crow   is   found   throughout  Africa   from    the 
verge  of  the  Sahara  to   Natal ;    but   I   have  sometimes  thought   that  it   was 
less  prevalent  in  the  interior,  especially  in  the  forest  regions  than  on  or  near 
the  sea  coast,  where  it  is  always  the  bird  most  commonly  met  with.     It  is 
very  useful  as  a  scavenger  and  is  not  such  a  robber  as  the  white-necked  raven, 
which,  in  spite  of  its  beauty,  one  is  obliged  to  destroy,  as  it  carries  oflT  all 
small  ducks  and  chickens  within  its  reach.     There  is  no  form  of  magpie  or 
jay  ever  met  with  in  Tropical   Africa.     Amongst  the  starlings  we  have  the 
red-billed  oxpecker.^     It  is  the  mission  of  the  red-billed  oxpecker  to  cling 
by  its  sharp  claws  to  the  bodies  of  buffaloes  and  other  large  herbivora  and 
remove  from  their  skins  the  blood-sucking  ticks.     The  beautiful  glossy  starlings 
are  represented  by  the  genera  Laniprotomis  and  Lamprocolius,     One  stammers 
in  admiration  before  these  lovely  birds  whose  plumage  is  iridescent  purple, 
emerald-green,  bronze-red,  and  vivid  ultramarine-blue.     Their  eyes  are  golden- 
yellow.     Their  plumage  is  literally  glossy,  and  although  they  seldom  live  long 
in  captivity,  they  become  delightfully  tame.     It  is  only  the  mature  birds  that 
assume  these  gorgeous  colours ;    the   young  begin  by  being  brown  with  dull 
mottlings — they   look    very    like    the    young    of  the   common    starling — but 
by  degrees  the  gem-like  feathers   appear  amongst  the  brown   and  gi-adually 
the   whole   plumage    is   covered    with    this    iridescent    gloss.      Another    very 
beautiful  member  of  the  starling  group  is  the  Atnydrus  morio. 

Amongst  the  Orioles  we  have  three,  two  of  which  are  widespread  species  and 
yellow,  grey,  and  black  in  colour,  but  one  has  proved  to  be  entirely  new  to 
science  and  was  discovered  by  Mr.  Whyte  on  Mount  Chiradzulu  in  the  Shire 
Highlands  and   sent  home  by  me   in    1895   {Oriolus  chlorocephalus).     It  has 

^   Represented  by  one  species  only. 

"  This  bird  is  illustrated  in  my  Kilimanjaro  book. 

'  Another  curious  instance  of  interrupted  distribution  is  that  of  the  common  African  oxpecker 
{Buphaga  Africana),  which  is  found  in  north-east  and  north-west  Africa,  and  in  the  Transvaal,  but 
not  in  the  intervening  districts  of  South-Central  Africa. 


ZOOLOGY  331 

a  grass-green  head  and  throat,  a  golden  yellow  collar  round  the  neck  and  the 
same  bright  tint  over  the  breast,  stomach,  and  edges  of  the  tail  feathers ;  it 
is  olive  green  on  the  back  and  middle  of  the  tail ;  the  wings  are  blue-grey  and 
the  same  tint  is  on  the  outer  tail  feathers  mixed  with  the  yellow ;  the  eye 
is  crimson  and  the  beak  reddish-brown. 

Weaver  birds  are  well  represented.  There  is  an  elegant  Widow  bird  ( Vidua 
paradised)  the  male  of  which  in  the  breeding  season  develops  enormous  black 
plumes  as  an  addition  to  his  tail  feathers — plumes  more  than  three  times  as 
long  as  his  body.  The  rest  of  the  plumage  is  black,  cream-yellow  and  chestnut 
red.  It  is  charming  to  see  this  bird'  flying  with  an  undulatory  motion  through 
the  air.  So  far  from  being  impeded  by  its  tail  feathers  in  a  high  wind  it  is 
as  it  were  buoyed  up  by  tl^  widespread  plumes  to  which  so  disproportionately 
small  a  body  is  attached.  The  Widow  bird  with  its  long  black  feathers  may 
bear  some  resemblance  (especially  the  upper  plumes  which  are  crimped  like 
crape)  to  a  widow's  weeds,  but  is  far  from  widow-like  in  disposition.  The  male 
is  one  of  the  most  uxorious  of  birds,  each  cock  having  a  harem  of  ten  to  fifteen 
hens  devoted  to  him  and  on  whom  he  lavishes  great  attention.  He  has  an 
innate  conviction  of  his  own  beauty  and  is  perpetually  strutting  about  to  show 
off  his  plumes.  Then  there  is  the  exquisite  Bishop  bird — flame-coloured  and 
black,  the  flame-coloured  portion  of  the  body  being  like  plush  in  appearance. 
This  lovely  creature  is  present  in  enormous  numbers  in  the  grasslands,  and 
to  see  these  little  soft  balls  of  flame-coloured  plush  hanging  to  the  grass  stems 
and  fluttering  about  almost  within  reach  of  one's  hands  is  one  of  the  few 
alleviations  of  the  unspeakable  misery  of  travelling  through  long  grass  in 
Africa,  the  barbed  seeds  of  which  work  their  way  through  one's  clothing  until 
they  penetrate  the  skin. 

Closely  allied  to  the  Weavers  are  the  tiny  Waxbills  or  Weaverfinches,  some 
of  which  for  their  minute  size  are  only  surpassed  by  humming  birds.  One 
of  these  which  is  spread  almost  all  over  Tropical  Africa  is  especially  noticeable. 
It  is  called  by  the  French  '*  Cordon  bleu  "  and  is  an  exquisite  mixture  of  smalt- 
blue  and  grey.  Others  of  these  little  Waxbills  are  rosy  red,  and  when  they 
come  with  confident  tameness  to  a  clear  patch  of  ground  to  feed  on  the  grass 
seeds  they  are  so  small  and  so  exquisitely  coloured  that  they  seem  like  the  pets 
of  a  Lilliputian  race.  Of  course  there  is  a  sparrow  in  Africa  {Passer  diffusus) 
—  common  also  to  South  Africa.  The  African  buntings  {Embertza  and 
Fringillaria)  are  pretty  little  birds  of  black,  grey  and  yellow  which  have 
a  pleasing  song.  The  Makua  are  very  fond  of  catching  and  taming  this  bird 
and  keeping  it  in  neatly  made  cages  round  their  houses.  When  these  men  were 
stationed  at  Zomba  as  soldiers  they  would  speedily  catch  the  buntings  in  small 
traps,  put  them  in  tiny  cages  made  of  reeds,  hang  them  up  outside  the  hut 
or  barrack  and  in  a  week  the  bird  would  be  perfectly  tame  and  singing  away 
shrilly.  Another  favourite  singing  bird  of  the  Makua,  and  one  commonly 
met  with,  is  a  close  ally  of  the  wild  canary,  the  "Serin  finch"  {Serinus,  the 
same  genus  as  the  canary).  These  birds  very  much  resemble  the  wil4  canary 
in  appearance.  There  are  no  less  than  three  species  in  Nyasaland.  Wagtails 
of  two  or  more  species  visit  British  Central  Africa  during  the  dry  season, 
presumably  migrating  thither  from  the  winter  of  South  Africa.  They  are  liked 
and  protected  by  everyone — white  and  black — and  flit  about  the  native  villages, 
European  settlements  and  Arab  towns  with  charming  familiarity  and  freedom 
from  fear.     Their  song  is  very  pleasant. 

There  are  two  Pipits  of  the  genus  Anthus,  three  species  of  Thrush  (which 


332  BRITISH   CENTRAL   AFRICA 

sing  most  sweetly),  there  are  Bulbuls  of  the  genus  Pycnonotus,  numerous  chats 
(Saxicola),  and  twenty-five  genera  of  Warblers,  including  actyally  a  nightingale! 
— the  nightingale  of  South  Europe  {Daulias  pkilomela)  which  comes  as  a  winter 
visitor;  so  there  is  no  lack  of  singing  birds.  Indeed  both  Mr.  Whyte  and 
myself  have  remarked  with  emphasis  at  different  times  on  the  beauty  of  the 
birds'  songs  in  the  hilly  regions  of  British  Central  Africa.  The  chorus  of 
singing  birds  is  quite  as  beautiful  as  anything  one  hears  in  Europe,  thus  quite 
disposing  of  one  of  the  numerous  fictions  circulated  by  early  travellers  about 
the  tropics,  to  the  effect  that  the  birds,  though  beautiful,  had  no  melodious 
songs,  and  the  flowers,  though  gorgeous,  no  sweet  and  penetrating  scents.^ 
The  song  of  the  Mlanje  thrush  {Turdus  milanjensis)  is  scarcely  to  be  told 
from  that  of  the  English  bird.  Another  warbler  with  a  sweet  song  is  the 
Pycnonotus  bulbul. 

Three  species  of  Swallow  have  been  sent  home  in  our  collections,  one  of 
which  was  new  to  science  and  came  from  the  Mlanje  plateau.  It  is  interesting 
to  note  that  one  of  these  birds  is  the  common  swallow  which  in  its  annual 
migrations  visits  England.  Apparently  there  are  five  species  of  Woodpeckers, 
one  a  South  African  form,  not  before  found  north  of  the  Zambezi,  and  two 
which  have  never  hitherto  been  obtained  from  farther  south  than  Zanziban- 

Three  species  of  Honey-guides  {Indicator  and  Prodotiscus)  are  found  prett>' 
generally  over  British  Central  Africa,  though  one  does  not  always  hear  the  same 
tales  there  about  the  persistence  of  these  birds  in  conducting  men  to  the  nests 
of  the  wild-bee,  as  is  the  case  in  Southern  and  South- Western  Africa,  where  to 
meet  the  honey-guide  is  to  be  almost  certain  of  obtaining  a  provision  of  delicious 
honey.'  We  have  found  one  new  species  of  barbet  {Smilorhis  whytet)  not 
particularly  remarkable  for  beauty,  seeing  how  gorgeous  some  barbets  can  be. 

Amongst  Cuckoos  there  is  the  southern  species  of  Centropus^  with  black  head, 
chestnut  wings  and  tail,  and  cream-coloured  belly,  which  is  exceedingly  common 
and  not  a  nice  pet  to  keep  in  the  aviary  because  of  its  cruelty  to  smaller  birds. 
The  Centropus  cuckoo  is  remarkable  for  its  musical  call,  which  might  be 
expressed  in  the  following  notation  : — 


i 


s 


^^ 


■'  ^  yZ-tt^g^ 


37— ^_f=i;i^:J3.^itJ  aw    .J 


Tu!    Tu!     tu     tu      tu      tu      tu     tu      Tu! 


This  call  sounds  through  all  the  hot  hours  of  the  day  in  the  thick  clumps  of 
grass  or  reeds.  There  are  also  among  the  cuckoos  two  allied  to  the  common 
species  found  in  England,  several  golden  cuckoos  and  a  lovely  creature  of  the 
genus  Coccystes  which  is  a  beautiful  iridescent  purple  with  a  white  stomach. 

Among  our  collections  there  are  two  species  of  the  Coly  or  mouse  bird 
(Colius).  These  little  creatures  have  rather  doubtful  affinities  but  are  related 
to  the  cuckoos,  the  turacos,  and  other  Picarian  birds ;  they  have  their  four  toes 
so  arranged  that  they  can  be  turned  almost  any  way,  that  is  to  say  that  the  hind 
toe  can  often  be  placed  in  a  line  with  the  three  others  in  front,  or  two  of  the 
toes  can  turn  backwards.     The  Colies  have  a  long  graduated  tail,  nearly  twice 

^  Giptain  Shelley,  the  chief  authority  on  African  birds,  writes  in  the  preface  to  his  Birds  of  Afrua— 
**  Africa  may  fairly  claim  to  be  the  metropolis  of  the  song  birds,  for  the  bush  resounds  with  their  melody," 

^  Campothera  smithii  of  South  Africa  and  C  malherbii  and  Dendroptcus  zanxibari  of  East  Africa. 

^  Still  the  natives  do  attribute  this  faculty  to  the  Indicators  whose  native  name  is  "nsasu"  or 
**  nsadzu."  The  honey-guide,  they  say,  does  not  care  about  the  honey  but  hopes  to  obtain  the  young  bees 
in  the  comb. 


ZOOLOGY  333 

the  length  of  the  body.  The  head  is  surmounted  by  a  crest,  generally  abased, 
there  is  a  whitish  cere  over  the  beak  and  the  beak  itself  is  generally  red  with 
rather  a  wide  gape,  the  upper  mandible  turned  down  something  like  the  beak 
of  a  falcon  or  of  a  turaco.  The  Colies  frequent  the  low  trees  or  bushes  of  the 
forest.  They  creep  and  run  about  the  branches  like  mice  which  accounts  for 
their  common  name  in  South  Africa.  Their  plumage  is  greyish-brown,  with 
a  faint  striation. 

In  an  earlier  chapter  of  this  book  I  have  dwelt  on  the  beautiful  green 
turacos  with  their  crimson  pinions.  These  lovely  birds  are  represented  by  three 
species  in  British  Central  Africa — Turacus  livingstoni,  Gallirex  chlorochlamySy 
and  Schizorhis  concolor.  The  first  named  is  grass-green  with  dark  blue  wing 
coverts  and  tail,  a  white  tip  to  the  graceful  crest  and  the  usual  crimson 
pinions.  The  second,  Gallirex,  is  a  dark  indigo  blue,  shot  with  emerald  green, 
with  grey  breast  and  crimson  pinions.  The  third,  however,  is  without  the 
crimson  pinions.  Its  wing  feathers  are  black,  the  rest  of  its  body  is  usually 
grey  with  the  exception  of  the  breast  where  there  is  a  curious  patch  of  dull 
green,  showing  the  beginning  of  that  green  tint  which  has  become  so  character- 
istic of  the  turacos.  It  would  be  more  correct  perhaps  to  describe  the  wing 
pinions  as  purple  rather  than  black. 

The  green  turaco  is  altogether  a  graceful  and  lovely  creature  but  the 
Gallirex  though  gaudily  coloured  is  a  coarse  bird  of  ugly  outline.  It  has 
a  tremendous  gape  and  a  great  red  throat  When  it  opens  its  beak  to  gulp 
down  pieces  of  banana  it  looks  singularly  ugly.  It  seems  to  be  a  less  highly 
developed  type  of  plantain  eater.  I  have  reared  the  young  of  both  species  from 
the  nest  (they  are  generally  two  or  three  in  number^).  The  young  birds  when 
bom  appear  to  be  covered  with  a  dark  bluish  grey  down.  Though  rather 
sprawling  they  can  crawl  about  on  their  legs  from  the  first  and  have  more 
activity  in  the  nest  than  the  young  of  pigeons.  In  this  early  stage  the  bare- 
looking  head  is  rather  parrot-like.  The  way  these  young  birds  clamber  about 
in  an  almost  quadrupedal  fashion  helping  themselves  sometimes  with  their 
unfeathered  wings  reminded  me  of  what  I  had  read  concerning  the  young 
of  Opisthocomus,  though  of  course  the  habits  were  not  so  strongly  marked,  and 
so  far  as  I  know  the  young  of  the  turacos  have  not  the  fingers  of  the  manus 
so  much  developed  as  in  Opisthocomus. 

The  ashy-coloured  Schizorhis  is  not  at  all  common  in  Nyasaland  but  is  met 
with  more  frequently  in  the  low-lying  parts  to  the  west.  It  is  a  bird  which 
frequents  the  great  plains  of  Tropical  Africa  rather  than  the  forested  uplands. 
These  Schizorkince  attain  their  greatest  development,  however,  in  the  forests  of 
West  Africa,  where  they  produce  that  magnificent  bird  the  giant  Plantain  eater 
{Schizorhis  gigantea)? 

Parrots  are  poorly  represented,  as  indeed  is  the  case  throughout  Africa. 
The  only  two  genera  which  are  really  indigenous  to  British  Central  Africa  are 
Agapomis  and  Pceocephalus,     Agapornis  (the  love-bird)  is  represented  by  a  new 

'  It  is  said  by  the  natives  that  four  are  oflen  hatched  at  a  time. 

*  The  small  family  of  the  turacos  is  purely  African  at  the  present  day.  It  should  be  very  interesting 
to  ornithologists  as  it  is  one  of  those  indeterminate  groups  which  serve  as  important  links  in  the  chain  of 
development.  The  Musophagid(E  (Turacos  and  Plantain  eaters)  are  related  to  the  cuckoos,  more  distantly 
to  the  parrots,  to  the  colies,  to  Opisthocomus — that  extraordinary  South  American  bird  which  retains  so 
many  primitive  characters — and  to  the  GalUnacea,  The  turacos  in  my  opinion  (which,  if  I  remember 
rightly,  is  based  on  that  of  the  late  Professor  Garrod)  appear  to  be  the  descendants  of  some  central  group 
of  birds  from  which  the  parrots  and  most  of  Picarians  branched  off  in  one  direction,  while  there  was  a 
connection  with  Opisthocomus  and  the  Gallinaceous  birds  in  another,  this  connection  probably  passing 
through  forms  like  the  South  American  Curassows  {Crcuida). 


334  BRITISH   CENTRAL   AFRICA 

species  discovered  by  us  on  the  Upper  Shire  (A,  liliance).  This  bird  has  not 
been  met  with  anywhere  else  in  the  territory.  Pceocephali  parrots  are  found  all 
over  the  country.  The  large  Pceocephalus  robustus,  which  is  green  with  a  little 
yellow  and  blue,  is  nearly  as  large  as  a  grey  parrot  and  resembles  very  much  in 
appearance  the  green  Amazon  parrots.  It  is  a  sulky  and  untamable  bird 
although  of  handsome  plumage,  and  has  an  extremely  harsh  cry.  The  smaller 
grey-headed  Pceocephalus  likewise  is  not  easily  tamed  though  it  lives  longer  in 
confinement  than  P.  robustus. 

The  Grey  Parrot  is  said  to  be  found  on  the  Luapula  near  Lake   Mweru. 
Possibly  it  reaches  the  west  coast  of  Tanganyika.     In  the  former  case,  however, 
if  the  fact  be  true  that  the  bird  is  found  wild  it  is  probably  accounted  for  by  its 
introduction  from  the  west  at  the  hands  of  native  traders.     The  grey  parrot  is 
much  prized  as  a  pet  by  the  Arabs  and  Wa-Swahili,  and  there  is  a  steady  flow 
of  birds  as  articles  of  commerce  from  the  Congo  territories  eastward   across 
Tanganyika  and  southwards  across  Lake  Mweru.     They  are  not  infrequently 
brought  overland  from  Tanganyika  to  Nyasa  to  be  sold  to  the  Europeans. 
The  grey  parrot  from  the  southern  part  of  the  Congo  Free  State  is  the  normal 
variety.     I  have  not  seen  any  specimens  like  those  on  the  Lower  Congo  and  in 
Angola,  where  the  plumage  tends  to  become  pink.     So  far  as  my  own  observa- 
tion goes  there  are  the  following  species  of  grey  parrot — Psittacus  erithacus  and 
P,  timneh,     Psittacus  timneh  of  Western  Africa  is  a  brownish-grey  with  a  tail 
which  is  black  or  brown.     This  bird  again  offers  great  resemblance  to  some  of 
the  larger  parrots  of  the  genus  Pceocephalus  which  tend  to  assume  a  brownish- 
grey  plumage  in  West  Africa.     Then  there  is  the  ordinary  grey  parrot  which 
makes  its  appearance  on  the  West  Coast  in  the  form  in  which  it  is  generally 
known  about  the  Gold  Coast  and  extends  across  the  Lower  Niger  into  the 
Congo  Basin  and  Angola.     The  race  of  grey  parrot,  however,  found  on  the 
Gold  Coast  and  in  Dahome  is  rather  a  dark  neutral  grey,  but  has  a  distinctly 
scarlet  tail.     In  the  Niger  Delta  the  grey  of  the  parrot  becomes  lighter.     On 
Princes  Island  in  the  Gulf  of  Guinea  there  is  an  extraordinary  variety  of  grey 
parrot,  in  which  the  plumage  of  the  body  has  become  a  deep  purple  grey, 
while  the  scarlet  tail  is  a  purplish  crimson.     Seen  hurriedly  at  a  distance  these 
birds  appear  almost  black  (I  have  been  on  Princes  Island  and  so  can  speak 
with  some  decision).     On  the  Lower  Congo  and  in  Angola  the  grey  of  the 
parrot's  plumage  has  a  beautiful  silvery  tint,  and  in   this  district  there  is  a 
tendency  in  certain  individuals  for  pink  feathers  to  crop  out  amongst  the  grey 
plumage  until  in  the  variety  known  as  the  King  parrot  the  entire  plumage  is 
almost  pink  and  white  with  a  large  scarlet  tail.     It  is  the  more  normal  form  of 
ordinary  grey  parrot  however,  of  the  average  ash-grey  plumage  and  scarlet  tail, 
which  spreads  eastward  from  the  Niger  Delta  and  the  Cameroons  right  across 
the  basin  of  the  Upper  Congo  to  the  Albert  and  Victoria  Nyanzas,  to  the  West 
Coast  of  Tanganyika,  and  to  the  southern  limits  of  the  Congo  Free  State. 

It  is  not  true  as  is  stated  by  some  authorities  that  the  grey  parrot  in 
the  wild  state  reaches  the  east  coast  of  Lake  Nyasa,  or  any  part  of  Nyasaland. 
This  mistake  has  probably  arisen  by  Arab  or  Swahili  traders  bringing  the  bird 
to  Nyasaland  from  Tanganyika.  The  nearest  allies  of  the  grey  parrot  outside 
Africa  are  the  Vasa  Paroquets  of  Madagascar.  The  parrots  are  a  very  isolated 
order  of  birds  but  their  nearest  living  relations  are  the  Turacos. 

So  far  only  one  swift  has  been  recorded  by  us — Cypselus  toulsoni — a  bird 
hitherto  supposed  to  be  limited  to  West  Africa  but  apparently  extending 
across  to  Nyasaland. 


ZOOLOGY 


335 


The  only  recorded  representative  of  the  Goatsuckers  is  the  remarkable 
Cosmetornis  vexillarius  which  has  the  ninth  pinion  of  the  wing  prolonged  into  a 
narrow  white  plume  of  great  length.  The  sixth,  seventh  and  eighth  pinion 
feathers  which  are  black  are  also  lengthened  beyond  what  is  usual.  The  female 
is  without  these  appendages. 

We  are  actually  privileged  to  possess  two  out  of  three  species  of  African 
Trogon — Hapaloderma  narina  and  H,  vittatmn.  Both  these  birds  are  very 
rarely  met  with  and  up  to  the  present  have  only  been  recorded  from  the  Shire 
Highlands.  Their  plumage  is  a  combination  of  blue-green,  golden-green,  and 
bronze,  with  crimson-scarlet  stomach,  a  purple  tail  with  white  edges,  and  zebra 
marks  of  black  and  white  on  the  wing. 

We  now  come  to  the  consideration  of  a  group  that  amongst  all  the 
puzzling  affinities  of  the  heterogeneous  cohorts  of  Picarian  birds  stands  out  as 
a  distinct  assemblage  closely  inter-related — the  Syndactyla,  which  includes  the 
bee-eaters,  hoopoes,  hombills,  kingfishers,  and  rollers,  besides  other  families 
not  represented  in  Africa.^  They  are  well  represented  in  British  Central 
Africa.  Notable  amongst  the  bee-eaters  is  the  lovely 
Merops  natalensis,  which  is  abundant  on  the  river 
Shire  and  probably  in  other  low -lying  parts  of 
British  Central  Africa.  At  Chiromo  this  bird  is 
present  in  large  numbers  as  it  nests  in  holes  in  the 
high  clay  bank  on  the  spot  which  divides  the  River 
Ruo  from  the  Shire.  When  I  arrived  at  Chiromo  in 
1 89 1  to  commence  the  administration  of  this  country 
I  found  that  these  beautiful  birds  were  being  shot 
down  in  numbers  to  be  skinned  and  sent  home  for 
the  decoration  of  hats.  I  took  them  under  Govern- 
ment protection,  however,  and  since  that  time  their 
numbers  have  greatly  increased  and  they  have  become 
wonderfully  tame.  It  is  objected,  however,  to  this 
favour  shown  to  them  that,  burrowing  into  the  bank 
to  make  holes  for  the  reception  of  their  eggs,  they 
assist  the  water  in  flood  time  to  eat  away  the  clay 
and  so  gradually  diminish  the  site  of  Chiromo.  I  do 
not  think  there  is  any  fear  that  the  bee-eaters  may 
cause  more  than  the  loss  of  a  few  feet  of  clay  cliffs, 
and  the  ground  they  are  thus  destroying  is  a  piece  of  Government  land,  which 
is  retained  as  a  kind  of  a  park.  When  these  bee-eaters  settle  on  the  branches 
of  a  bare  leafless  bush,  which  they  are  very  fond  of  doing,  the  first  impression 
on  the  passing  traveller  is  that  this  shrub  is  covered  with  gorgeous  blue  and 
crimson  flowers,  till,  when  he  is  advancing  to  gather  them,  the  flowers  change 
into  birds  which  fly  away  and  leave  the  bareness  of  the  bush  singularly  apparent. 
They  are  almost  the  most  gorgeously  coloured  of  any  living  bird.  The  pre- 
dominating colour  is  rose-red,  deepening  in  places  into  scarlet ;  the  other  tints 
of  their  silky  plumage  are  azure-blue,  verditer-blue  and  black. 

The  Hoopoes  are  represented  by  one  species  and  the  Tree-hoopoes  by  two. 
The  most  remarkable  form  of  Hornbill   is  the  very  large  ground  hornbill,  a 

^  I  give  here  a  drawing  of  the  foot  of  the  great  kingfisher  ( CeryU  maxima)  to  show  its  syndactylous 
character^  It  will  be  seen  that  the  third  and  fourth  toes  are  nearly  joined  together.  This  I  think  arose 
from  the  Syndactylous  picarians  originating  from  a  Zygodactylous  ancestor  (toes  placed  two  and  two)  and 
afterwards  directing  one  of  the  back  toes  forward. 


THE    **  SYNDACrVLOUS   FOOT" 
(foot  of  thk  great  kingfisher) 


336  BRITISH   CENTRAL   AFRICA 

bird  which  amongst  the  Picarians  is  as  remarkable  as  the  large  Australian 
Lyrebird  is  as  a  huge  terrestrial  development  of  Passerine  type.     It  still  retains 
in  some  measure  the  syndactylous  foot  though  it  is  obvious  that  the  toes  are 
gradually  becoming  more  separated.     The  species  of  ground  hombill  in  British 
Central  Africa  is  Buconms  caffer.     It  has  black  plumage  with  white  pinions  to 
the  wings.     The  enormous  beak  and  the  small  casque  above  are  both  black  ; 
the  bare  parts  of  the  face  are  red  but   round   the   eye   and  on  the   wattle- 
protuberance  of  the  throat  the  colour  changes  to  blue  in  the  male  and   to  a 
purplish    red    in    the    female.      The   ground   hornbills    are    great   scavengers, 
devouring  snakes,  offal  of  all  kinds  and  any  reptile  of  convenient  size   they 
can  get  hold  of,  rats,  small  birds,  and  mammals.     In  spite  of  their  ferocious 
aspect  they  make  the  most  charming  pets,  using  their  huge  bills  very  gently 
and  never  to  my  knowledge  as  a  weapon  of  offence  against  their  human  friends. 
Anybody   wishing   to   test   this   statement   of   mine   should   visit  the   ground 
hombill  presented  by  me  to  the  Zoological  Gardens  which  has  been  for  some 
time  living  in  the  Eastern  Aviary.     I  have  had  others  of  these  birds  and  have 
become  really  attached  to  them.     We  always  delighted  in  their  quaint  ways 
and  strong  originality.     They  are,  as  a  rule,  well  able  to  take  care  of  themselves, 
but  one  of  these  birds  which  almost  ranked  next  to  a  human  being  in  the 
opinion  of  the  natives,  so  much  was  it  a  member  of  our  family,  preferred   to 
sleep   at   night,   no   matter   what   was   the   weather,   on   the  chimney  of   the 
Secretary's  house.     Unfortunately  the  roof  leading  up  to  the  chimney  sloped 
gradually  and  came  near  to  the  ground.     One  night  a  tiger  cat  must  have 
ascended  the  roof  and  seized  the  bird  while  asleep,  to  judge  from  the  traces 
which  were  left.     They  are  very  affectionate  to  persons  whom  they  know,  but 
they  will  sometimes  take  a  sudden  fancy  to  a  stranger  and  insist  on  feeding 
him  or  her  with  a  dreadful  piece  of  offal,  the  more  malodorous  the  choicer  in 
the  hombiirs  opinion.     They  will  hardly  refuse  any  form  of  food  and  swallow 
most  things  on  trust — a  rash  confidence  which  often  leads  to  their  death  when 
they  are  the  pets  of  a  European.     The  natives"  have  a  superstitious  reverence 
for  this  bird  which  they  never  kill.    It  usually  lives  in  small  flocks  or  companies. 

In  some  of  the  more  forested  parts  of  British  Central  Africa  the  Trumpeter^ 
hornbills  are  represented  by  two  species,  the  well-known  Bycanistes  cristatus 
(illustrated  in  my  Kilimanjaro  book)  and  B,  buccinator^  a  rather  smaller  bird 
with  a  less  prominent  white  casque.  The  noise  made  by  these  hornbills  I  have 
compared  in  other  books  to  the  braying  of  an  ass  or  the  hoarse  raving  of  a 
grief-stricken  woman.  It  is  at  times  a  terribly  distressing  sound  re-echoing 
through  the  forest.  The  more  savage  natives  of  British  Central  Africa  are 
very  fond  of  using  the  head  of  the  white  casqued  hornbill  {B,  cristatus)  as  a 
terror-striking  object  fixed  to  their  headdress. 

Amongst  the  kingfishers  there  are  four  species  of  Halcyon  all  beautifully 
coloured  and  rather  large  (these  Halcyons  are  not  necessarily  found  near  water 
and  subsist  on  insects,  not  fish),  two  of  Ceryle  (one,  C,  rudis  is  a  very  common 
African  kingfisher  and  is  black  and  white,  the  other,  C.  maxima  is  the  lai^est 
kingfisher  known — it  is  black  and  white,  blue-grey  and  chestnut),  and  beautiful 
little  birds  of  the  genera  Alcedo  and  Corytkomis. 

The  rollers  are  not  represented  by  many  species.  There  are  two  forms  of 
Eurystomus  and  two  of  Coracias,  The  Eurystomus  is  another  gorgeous  bird 
for  colouring — a  combination  of  chestnut  shot  with  mauve,  rose  colour,  azure- 
blue  and  purple. 

^  Bycanistes. 


ZOOLOGY  337 

Amongst  Owls  may  be  noted  the  fine  eagle  owl  {Bubo  maculosus^)  and 
a  remarkable  fishing  owl  {Scotopelid),  The  ubiquitous  barn  owl,  scarcely 
differing  in  plumage  from  the  English  bird,  is  found  in  British  Central  Africa 
as  it  is  almost  all  over  the  world. 

The  Rails  are  another  group  of  birds  similar  to  the  Turacos,  representing 
a  generalised  type  from  which  many  other  orders  of  birds  branch  off.  They 
would  appear  on  the  one  hand  to  have  affinities  with  the  Geese  (Anseres) 
through  the  Screamers;  with  the  Grebes  and  Divers  through  the  Finfoots;  with 
the  Plovers  (and  the  Plover  group  again  gives  rise  to  bustards,  to  gulls  and 
to  pigeons  ;  from  the  bustards  branch  off  the  flamingoes  and  in  another  direc- 
tion the  Raptorial  birds  through  forms  like  Seriama  and  Serpentarius) ;  with  the 
cranes;  witii  the  Gallinaceous  birds  through  the  Hemipodes;  with  the  herons 
(and  thence  the  storks),  the  cormorants  and  pelicans,  and  so  on. 

The  Rails  and  their  distant  connection  the  still  more  remarkable  Finfoot, 
are  well  represented  in  British  Central  Africa.  In  regard  to  the  former  we  have 
a  lai^e  blue  Porphyrio  with  crimson-red  beak  and  red  feet ;  a  black  coot ; 
pretty  little  rails  which  are  often  blue  or  dark  purple,  other  rails  scarcely 
distinguishable  from  the  English  water  hen ;  and  the  common  corncrake.  The 
blue  Porphyrios  are  very  easily  tamed  but  they  are  awkward  pets  to  keep 
in  the  aviary,  as  they  are  most  carnivorous  in  their  tastes  and  will  kill  and  eat 
the  smaller  birds.  Some  notice  should  be  taken  of  the  remarkable  prehensile 
character  of  their  coral-red  feet  which  are  furnished  with  very  long  toes.  They 
are  in  the  habit  of  standing  on  one  leg  while  the  other  foot  holds  tightly  the 
object  they  are  eating  which,  in  addition  to  birds,  small  mammals  or  fish,  may 
be  snails  or  large  insects.  It  is  interesting  to  see  one  of  these  birds  tightly  hold 
a  large  snail  shell  and  pick  out  by  degrees  the  reluctant  snail.  They  are  very 
clever  also  in  moving  about  the  branches  of  a  tree,  and  their  feet  though  so 
clumsy  in  appearance  are  very  well  adapted  for  climbing,  and  this  aberrant  rail 
does  climb.  It  will  go  up  a  nearly  vertical  tree  trunk  "  hand  over  hand  "  as 
it  were,  creeping  about  more  like  a  mammal  than  a  bird.  The  remarkable 
finfoot  {Podicd)  is  met  with  in  Nyasaland  more  frequently  than  in  the  other 
parts  of  Africa  over  which  its  range  extends.  It  is  an  almost  untamable  bird, 
very  difficult  to  keep  in  confinement,  where  it  soon  dies  from  refusing  food.  It 
is  awkward  in  its  movements.  The  snake-like  action  of  the  head  and  the 
shape  of  the  beak  recall  the  darters.  The  finfoot  dives  readily  and  keeps  under 
water  as  long  as  a  duck.  It  swims  with  its  body  extremely  low  in  the  water 
and  the  bobbing  head  and  neck  often  appear  to  be  a  snake  swimming  across 
the  stream. 

The  most  prominent  representative  of  the  Anseres  is  the  spur-winged  goose 
— a  fine  large  bird  with  a  stately  walk  and  a  handsome  plumage  of  dark 
blackish-brown  shot  with  iridescent  tints  of  bronze-green,  with  white  wing 
coverts,  a  white  patch  on  the  throat  and  on  the  stomach,  and  a  dark  crimson 
knobbed  beak  and  bare  skin  round  the  eye.  In  the  adult  male  the  wing 
is  armed  at  the  wrist  with  a  powerful  spur  sometimes  over  an  inch  long.  As 
this  spur  is  situated  just  on  that  joint  of  the  wing  whence  so  powerful  a  blow 
is  so  often  struck  by  swans  and  geese  it  must  be  a  considerable  weapon  of 
offence  though  it  never  seems  to  use  it  against  man.  This  spur-winged  goose 
is   readily   domesticated   but   does   not   appear   to   breed   easily   in   captivity. 

*  The  Manchichi  of  the  A-nyanja  who  regard  it  as  a  peculiarly  weird  bird  on  account  of  its  cry 
at  night  which  is  like  the  wailing  of  a  person  in  agony.  The  manchichi  is  with  the  jackal  and  the  leo])ard 
the  associate  of  the  Mfiti  or  witch-ghouls  who  dig  uj)  and  devour  corpses. 

22 


338  BRITISH   CENTRAL   AFRICA 

Unfortunately  though  such  a  fine  looking  bird  it  is  very  poor  eating.  The 
flesh  is  dark,  coarse  and  strong  in  flavour. 

A  more  eatable  bird  is  the  very  pretty  Egyptian  goose  which  is  a  connecting 
link  between  the  geese  and  ducks.  The  handsome  Sarcidiomis  (sometimes 
called  the  knob-nosed  goose)  is  a  remarkable  bird,  by  some  thought  to  be 
a  duck  by  others  an  intermediate  link  between  the  geese  and  ducks.  It  has 
a  blunt  spur  on  the  wrist  of  the  wing,  a  plumage  in  the  male  of  white  and 
iridescent  black  with  a  brilliant  speculum  in  the  wing  of  blue  green.  It  is 
fairly  abundant  on  large  sheets  of  water  in  British  Central  Africa. 

The  tree  ducks  are  represented  by  at  least  three  species.  I  cannot  find  any 
confirmation  either  by  observation  or  native  report  of  the  idea  that  these  birds 
build  their  nests  in  holes  of  trees  though  I  should  not  like  to  aver  the  contrary. 
They  are,  however,  ordinarily  met  with  in  large  numbers  in  marshy  districts 
where  trees  are  altogether  absent  and  my  own  impression  is  they  nest  amongst 


the  reeds.  They  make  a  curious  whistling  noise  as  a  call  or  as  a  signal  of 
danger.  The  genus  Anas  is  actually  represented  by  two  specimens,  the  Anas 
sparsa  and  A,  xanthorhyncha.  There  is  also  a  true  teal.  The  other  ducks  belong 
to  several  African  genera.  The  red-beaked  Pcecilonetta  is  one  of  the  most 
delicious  ducks  for  eating  I  have  ever  met  with.  It  might  well  rival  the  canvas- 
back  duck  of  America.  Nyroca,  a  quaint  and  pretty  little  black  duck  with 
yellow  eyes  and  a  slight  crest,  is  allied  to  our  English  pochard. 

The  cranes  are  well  represented  though  by  two  species  at  most.  Through- 
out all  the  low-lying  parts  of  the  country  the  beautiful  crowned  crane  is  present 
and  so  far  as  recorded  specimens  go  it  is  the  only  crane  of  which  the  existence 
in  Central  Africa  is  absolutely  established,  but  I  have  heard  on  certain  plateaux 
and  mountains  of  the  existence  of  a  second  kind  of  crane,  and  have  actually 
seen  specimens  of  this  at  a  distance  of  perhaps  eighty  yards  on  the  swamp 
at  the  top  of  Zomba  mountain  where  the  river  Mlungusi  takes  its  rise.  So 
far  as  I  could  judge  this  bird  resembled  the  Stanley  crane  of  South  Africa 
( Grus  paradised). 

The  crowned  crane  is  easily  domesticated  and  a  more  admirable  guest  it 
would  be  impossible  to  entertain  in  one's  garden.  Apart  from  its  extraordinary 
beauty  and  grace  it  spends  its  time  searching  for  insects  and  grubs  of  all  kinds 


< 

O 

Q 
Cd 
Z 

o 

u 


ZOOLOGY  341 

of  which,  with  a  little  corn  added,  its  diet  usually  consists.  This  crane  may 
actually  be  described  as  a  gardener,  as  although  it  is  a  large  bird  it  walks  so 
delicately  amongst  the  flower  beds  as  not  to  crush  any  blossom  and  keeps 
its  large  grey  eyes  vigilantly  on  the  watch  for  any  grub  or  locust. 

The  crowned  crane  is  found  very  abundantly  in  the  Transvaal  where  also  it 
is  semi-domesticated.  I  have  not  heard  whether  these  birds  will  breed  in  con- 
finement If  they  would  then  it  is  marvellous  they  have  not  already  made  their 
way  into  Europe  as  a  rival  to  the  peacock,  for  the  crowned  crane  has  not  only 
all  the  peacock's  beauty,  but  it  has  a  much  pleasanter  voice,  and  is  of  positive 
benefit  to  the  garden,  whereas  we  all  know  the  one  drawback  to  the  peacock  is 
that  it  eats  the  flowers.  Once  a  crowned  crane  has  become  attached  to  a  place 
it  will  never  leave  it  and  may  be  safely  trusted  with  its  liberty.  It  will  take  to 
flight  occasionally  round  the  premises  but  never  travels  far  away  from  its  home. 
These  birds  appear  to  consort  in  pairs  of  male  and  female  and  become  very 
much  attached  to  one  another,  apparently  pairing  for  life.  Their  dancing  and 
bowing  of  the  head  are  very  quaint.  They  are  fond  of  promenading  about  at 
times  with  the  wings  wide  spread  and  taking  long  strides  in  the  manner  depicted 
in  my  illustration.  When  searching  the  lawn  for  locusts  they  stamp  every  now 
and  then  with  their  feet  on  the  grass  to  cause  those  insects  to  leap  or  fly  and  so 
discover  themselves.  They  are  not  very  fond  of  dogs,  in  whose  presence  they 
will  perform  the  most  extraordinary  antics,  presun^bly  in  order  to  terrify  the 
beasts,  but  to  most  other  creatures  they  exhibit  a  friendly  and  considerate 
demeanour.  They  can  be  trusted  in  the  farm  yard  or  chicken  run  with  the 
certainty  that  they  will  not  harm  even  the  tiny  chickens.  It  is  evident  that 
their  intelligence  is  very  great  and  that  they  have  a  natural  affinity  for  the 
society  of  human  beings,  though  even  here  they  discriminate  between  negroes 
and  white  people,  and  would  often  display  much  more  politeness  to  Europeans 
at  Zomba  than  to  the  negroes.  A  pair  of  these  birds  was  the  solace  of  my 
exile  for  some  three  years.  One  of  them  is  still  living  at  Zomba,  the  other  was 
unfortunately  killed  by  a  snake.  On  my  journey  over  the  Nyasa-Tanganyika 
plateau  in  1889-90,  I  was  accompanied  by  a  tame  crane  given  to  me  by  an 
Arab.  This  bird  during  the  march  was  carried  in  a  box  on  a  man's  shoulders. 
Whenever  we  stopped  to  rest  or  to  camp  the  crane  was  let  out  and  would  follow 
me  about  everywhere  like  a  dog.  When  it  was  necessary  to  resume  the  march 
the  door  of  the  cage  had  only  to  be  opened  and  the  bird  to  be  called  for  it  to 
quietly  step  in.  As  the  peacock  from  Tropical  India  can  now  stand  an  English 
winter  so  in  like  manner  this  charming  crane  which  endures  unharmed  the  sharp 
frosts  of  South  Africa  might  very  well  be  domesticated  in  England.  The  young 
as  in  all  cranes  are  able  to  run  on  leaving  the  egg  and  give  very  little  trouble  in 
their  rearing.  If  it  were  not  sacrilege  to  mention  the  fact  in  connection  with  so 
lovely  a  creature  I  might  add  that  this  crane  is  excellent  eating. 

This  country  offers  so  few  arid  tracts  that  it  is  not  surprising  that  bustards, 
which  are  birds  of  the  desert  or  steppe,  are  poorly  represented.  The  only 
species  obtained  and  sent  home  up  to  the  present  time  is  the  handsome  black- 
bellied  bustard  {Otis  melanogaster). 

Flamingoes  are  seen  occasionally  on  Lake  Chilwa,  on  Lake  Malombe  and 
the  Upper  Shire,  on  parts  of  Lake  Nyasa  and  above  all  on  the  south  end  of 
Lake  Tanganyika.  A  specimen  of  a  flamingo  with  immature  plumage  from 
the  north  end  of  Lake  Nyasa  was  sent  home  by  me  in  1895,  but  either  did 
not  come  to  hand  or  was  too  bad  a  specimen  for  identification.  The  flamingo 
is  probably  a  South  African  species,  Phosnicopterus  minor ;    though   I    think 


342  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

on  Lake  Tanganyika  the  larger  P,  roseus  (common  flamingo)  is  present 
Herons  and  storks  are  well  represented.  The  father  of  them  all — or  at  any 
rate  the  bird  which  amongst  existing  forms  comes  nearest  to  the  common 
ancestor  of  storks  and  herons — the  Scopus  umbretta  or  Tufted  Umbre,  is 
exceedingly  common  and  is  a  great  scavenger.  This  bird  is  a  rich  umber- 
brown  almost  without  variation  except  that  the  tail  is  dirty  white  barred  with 
dark  brown  and  the  pinions  are  nearly  black.  But  on  the  mature  bird,  especially 
on  the  male,  a  fine  purplish  gloss  lights  up  the  dull  brown  and  gives  it  rather  a 
handsome  colour.  These  Umbres  are  great  scavengers  ;  they  are  utterly  uneat- 
able and  consequently  are  not  much  molested,  becoming  therefore  far  from 
shy.  They  are  easily  tamed  and  make  rather  amusing  pets  except  for  their 
harsh  cry.  The  extraordinary  Goliath  heron — perhaps  the  biggest  of  all  the 
true  herons  and  a  bird  of  very  beautiful  coloration  (red-fawn,  blue-grey,  white, 
black,  with  green  skin  round  the  eyes  and  a  beak  which  is  mottled  black  and 
green)  is  present  on  every  big  river  and  lake.  In  the  breeding  season  the 
male  develops  two  sets  of  whitish  plumes  hanging  down  perpendicularly  from 
the  stomach  and  looking  somewhat  like  the  long  muslin  appendages  of  shirt 
fronts  or  cravats  of  the  last  century.  The  common  heron  of  Europe  is  also  met 
with.  There  are  further  the  purple  heron,  the  small  cream-coloured  squacco 
heron,  the  large,  middle  sized,  and  small  egrets,  the  tiny  buff-backed  egret, 
several  night  herons  and  at  least  two  bitterns.  The  egrets  are  common  and 
beautiful  sights  on  the  rivers.  The  large  species  is  seen  singly  or  in  pairs,  but 
the  little  egrets  and  the  still  smaller  bulbulcus  are  met  with  in  large  flocks. 
The  last  named  bird  is  so  little  molested  by  the  natives  that  it  allows  of  a 
very  near  approach.  These  snow-white  herons  with  their  lace-like  plumes  over 
the  wing  are  objects  which  never  fail  to  excite  my  admiration.  Towards  the 
evening  a  low  tree  by  the  river  bank  will  be  a  snow-white  mass  where  these 
birds  are  roosting  in  a  flock,  and  a  flight  of  them  against  a  background  of 
dark  forest  and  grey  water  makes  a  telling  spectacle. 

As  regards  storks :  there  is  of  course  that  huge  scavenger  the  bold-headed 
Adjutant  or  Marabu  {Leptoptilus).  We  have  also  the  exceedingly  handsome 
African  Jabiru  or  Saddle-bill  {Mycteria  senegalensis)  which  I  have  illustrated  in 
Chapter  I.^  and  which  is  a  rare  bird  only  met  with  occasionally  and  generally  in 
pairs,  whereas  the  Adjutant  is  usually  seen  in  large  flocks  especially  if  there  is 
carrion  about.  It  is  probable  that  we  also  have  the  white-bellied  stork  (Ciconia 
abdimia)  though  I  have  not  procured  specimens.  The  little  black  Anastomus 
(A.  lamelligerus)  is  very  common  along  the  rivers.  It  is  an  ugly  bird  with  a 
beak  the  mandibles  of  which  are  bowed  like  the  jaws  of  a  whalebone  whale, 
and  except  at  the  tip  have  a  gap  between  the  upper  and  lower  mandibles,  the 
edges  of  which  are  serrated.  The  general  colour  of  this  bird  is  black.  On 
the  stomach  and  thighs  the  ends  of  the  feathers  become  homy  and  curled, 
somewhat  in  appearance  like  the  crest  of  a  Curassow. 

Of  Ibises  we  have  the  handsome  Sacred  ibis  and  the  gorgeous  Hagedash ; 
also  the  Glossy  ibis.  The  Hagedash  ibis  when  immature  is  a  dull  brown  but  the 
adult  bird  is  one  mass  of  iridescent  green,  sea-blue  and  bronze-red.  Unlike  the 
egret  the  ibis  is  remarkably  good  eating. 

Probably  two  species  of  cormorant  are  found,  one  a  rather  large  bird,  dark 
slate-colour  with  a  white  throat ;  the  other  the  small  African  cormorant  which 
is  present  in  enormous  numbers  on  the  larger  rivers  and  on  the  lakes — a  bird 
uninteresting  in  appearance  and  coloration  and  quite  useless  for  food,  besides 

*  Page  15. 


ZOOLOGY 


343 


A   PELICAN  OF  TANGANYIKA 


being  a  consumer  of  enormous  quantities  of  fish.     The  remarkable  darter  with 
its  long  ^nake-like  neck  is  not  uncommon  and  is  a  characteristic  object  on  quiet 
reaches  of  the  river,  where,  perched  on  the  limb  of  a  naked  snag,  it  rests  from 
its  labours.  When  in  the  water, 
like    the    finfoot,    little    more 
than  the   head   and   neck   are 
seen  above  the  surface.     The 
smaller  pelican  is  found   and, 
I  think,  the  larger  species  also, 
especially  on  Lake  Tanganyika. 
There  are  many  representa- 
tives   of    the    Plovers.      The 
Thick -knee,  that   bustard-like 
bird  which  also  has  a  sugges- 
tion of  affinity  to  the  flamingoes, 

lurks  on  the  river  banks,  confiding  in  its  almost-invisibility  against  the  bare  soil. 
The  spur-winged  plover,  also  uneatable  and,  in  consequence,  very  bold,  flits 
in  front  of  the  boats  or  steamers  and  warns  the  crocodiles  of  their  approach 
with  its  shrill  wailing  cry.  I  remarked  in  my  Congo  book  on  the  real  friendship 
which  appears  to  exist  between  the  crocodile  and  the  spur-winged  plover.  I 
have  actually  seen  through  a  glass  the  plovers  picking  at  the  interstices  of  the 
crocodiles'  teeth  whilst  the  latter  lay  half  asleep,  and  these  birds  never  fail  to 
warn  the  sleeping  reptile  of  the  approach  of  an  enemy.  There  are  four 
species  of  Lapwing,  and  a  pretty  Stilt  plover,  which  I  have  met  with  both 

on  the  Palombe  river  and  on 
Lake  Tanganyika.  Curiously 
enough  the  common  Ruff  is 
present  during  certain  months 
of  the  year.  There  is  a 
Woodcock  and  there  is  a 
handsome  Painted  snipe.  The 
pretty  little  Parra  or  lily- 
trotter  has  already  been 
alluded  to.  Its  feet  appear 
enormous;  in  reality  the  actual 
size  of  the  toes  is  not  so 
great  as  the  extravagant  pro- 
longation of  the  claws  in  a 
line  with  the  toes  which  at 
a  distance  makes  the  total 
length  of  the  foot  appear 
nearly  as  long  as  that  of  the 
bird's  body.  By  means  of 
these  extraordinary  feet  the 
bird  can  run  rapidly  oyer  the 
floating  vegetation.  Even 
should  it  fall  into  the  water 
it  uses  the  feet  for  paddling. 
The  male  Parra  is  a  pretty 
-  -  ^      bird — golden -yellow,   cream- 

A  STILT  PLOVER  white,  chocolate  and  black. 


344 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


On  the  lakes  there  are  two  species  of  Tern,  one  of  them  being  a  red-beaked 
scissor  bill  in  which  the  upper  mandible  is  shorter  than  the  lower.  A  small 
Gull  {Larus  cirrhocephalus)  is  klso  commonly  met  with  on  all  the  lakes. 

A  Sand  grouse  (Pterocles  gutturalis)  is  found  in  the  Lake  Mweru  district,  but 
has  not  been  recorded  from  any  other  part  of  British  Central  Africa.  There  are 
many  Pigeons — none  of  much  interest  except  the  large  woodpigeon  of  the  high 
mountains,  which  is  apparently  a  Cape  species  (Columba  arquatrix).  This  bird 
is  larger  even  than  the  big  English  stock  dove.  Its  plumage  is  a  greyish -purple 
with  white  checks,  and  the  bill  is  lemon-yellow.  The  fruit  pigeons  of  the  genus 
Vinago  are  very  common  wherever  there  is  any  forest.  In  coloration  they  are 
extremely  pleasant — grass-green,  mauve,  yellow,  with  red  skin  round  the  eyes. 


HEAD  AND   FOOT  OF  FRUIT-PIGEON    (  Vinago) 

I  give  here  a  drawing  of  the  foot  of  the  fruit  pigeon  showing  that  it  is  actually 
assuming  zygodactyle  form,  like  that  which  obtains  in  so  many  climbing  birds. 

There  is  more  and  more  tendency  in  these  pigeons  for  the  toes  to  be  used 
two  and  two  in  grasping  the  branches.  No  doubt  the  zygodactyle  character  has 
been  assumed  independently  in  many  groups  of  birds  and  is  not  necessarily  a 
sign  of  common  origin.  Before  long  we  shall  have  a  zygodactyle  fruit  pigeon 
which  in  earlier  years,  when  naturalists  depended  solely  on  external  character- 
istics for  classification,  would  have  greatly  puzzled  them  as  to  its  position. 

The  Raptorial  birds  in  this  land  of  an  abundant  fauna  are  naturally  well 
represented  except  in  one  group,  the  vultures.  It  is  very  strange  that  over  the 
greater  part  of  British  Central  Africa  these  birds  should  be  relatively  uncommon. 
According  to  Thomson  they  are  exceedingly  abundant  on  the  high  treeless 
plateau  of  Uhehe,  to  the  north-east  of  Lake  Nyasa.  They  are  certainly 
abundant  in  numbers  and  varied  in  species  in  South  Africa,  and  in  East  and 
North  Africa.  In  this  particular  British  Central  Africa  rather  resembles  the 
western  forest  ;*egion  of  the  continent,  in  which  vultures  are  uncommon  and  are 
usually  limited  to  a  species  of  the  genus  Neophron,     Until  recently  I  should 


ZOOLOGY 


345 


have  said  there  was  but  one  vulture  in  British  Central  Africa — a  Neophron  ;  but 
I  recently  obtained  specimens  on  the  Upper  Shire  and  from  the  vicinity  of 
Lake  Chilwa  which  belong  to  the  genus  Otogyps  (the  eared  vulture)  with  a  bare 
red  head  and  large  beak.  The  Neophron  may  turn  out  to  be  a  new  species, 
slightly  different  from  the  Neophron  pileatus — differing  in  that  the  bare  parts  of 
the  head  and  neck  are  rosy-pink  and  blue,  instead  of  being  a  dull  purple,  and 
that  the  down  which  grows  at  the  back  of  the  bird's  head  and  neck  is  a  pale  buff- 
white  instead  of  being  brownish-grey.  On  the  bare  skin  of  the  throat  there  are 
curious  ribbed  excrescences  white  in  colour.  I  have  sent  specimens  of  this  bird 
home  but  they  have  either  not  reached  or  for  some  reason  have  not  been 
described.  A  faithful  representation  of  this  vulture  may  be  seen  in  the  picture 
of  the  dead  Angoni  warrior,  page  33.  These  birds  will  devour  carrion,  but  they 
are  also  general  scavengers  and  occasionally  visit  the  vicinity  of  large  towns  or 
camps  where  they  consume  the  ordure  and  offal. 

Central  Africa  has  almost  the  grandest  of  raptorial  birds — the  warlike 
Spizaetus  Eagle.  I  give  an  illustration  here  of  a  fine  specimen  of  the  Spizaetus 
which  was  for  a  long  time  in  my 
possession.  It  became  fairly  tame, 
and  would  allow  itself  to  be  caressed, 
but  was  deadly  to  any  small  animal 
which  -approached  it  I  once  saw  it 
kill  a  cat  instantaneously.  Seeing 
me  play  with  the  eagle  the  cat 
sidled  up  to  me.  In  a  second  the 
eagle  had  darted  out  a  foot  and 
driven  its  claws  through  the  cat's 
skull,  killing  it  in  a  moment.  The 
claws  of  this  Spizaetus  are  probably 
proportionately  longer  than  in  other 
eagles. 

The  very  handsome  crested  eagle 
{LophoaetMs)  is  a  much  simaller  bird, 
but  is  rather  richly  coloured  in  dark 
black -brown  with  white  feathered 
legs,  a  few  white  spots  on  the  back 
and  a  white  patch  on  the  under 
wing  coverts.  Its  crest  is  long  and 
the  tips  of  the  feathers  droop  for- 
ward. The  fishing  eagles  are  well 
represented  by  that  very  handsome 
bird  the  screaming  fish  eagle  {Haltae- 
tus  voctfer)y  the  mature  plumage  of 
which  is,  rich  chocolate -brown  and 
snowy-white ;  and  by  the  aberrant 
Bateleur  eagle  {Helotarsus) ;  and  the 
remarkable  Gypohierax.  The  screaming  fish  eagle  is  one  of  the  commonest 
African  birds,  and  its  cheerful  yells  occur  at  intervals  all  through  the  day- 
time on  an  African  river,  recalling  one  in  imagination  to  the  vicinity  of 
the  eagles'  aviary  in  the  Zoological  Gardens,  where  while  waiting  to  mount 
the  elephant's  back  as  children  we  have  been  deafened  by  the  same  not 
unmusical   clangour.      The  Bateleur  eagle  is   rather  spoilt   as   regards   shape 


THE  WARLIKE  CRESTED  EAGLE    (Sptzaetus  beiltCOSUS) 


346  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

by  having  a  tail  so  short  that  it  is  scarcely  visible,  but  the  bird  appears  to 
full  advantage  when  soaring  with  outspread  pinions,  as  with  the  exception 
of  the  head  its  shape  is  then  almost  that  of  a  crescent  moon.  It  is  perhaps 
the  most  brightly  coloured  of  all  raptorial  birds,  being  a  combination  of 
reddish-brown,  black  and  dove-grey  with  a  sheen  of  bronze  over  part  of  the 
plumage.  The  naked  skin  about  the  cheeks  and  the  beak  is  crimson-scarlet 
which  is  also  the  colour  of  the  legs.  The  tip  of  the  beak  is  black  and  the 
glossy  black  feathers  of  the  head  can  be  raised  into  a  casque-like  crest.  This 
bird  is  not  nearly  as  common  in  British  Central  Africa  as  it  is  to  the  east 
or  to  the  south.  It  prefers  an  open  country  of  thin  vegetation  where  it  can 
easily  sight  its  prey.  The  Gypohierax  which  for  many  years  was  classed  as  a 
vulture  but  which  is  now  known  to  be  an  aberrant  fishing  eagle,  is  found  on  the 
northern  half  of  Lake  Nyasa  but  not  any  distance  to  the  east  of  that  lake.  It 
has  been  stated,  I  believe,  that  it  is  met  with  on  the  Island  of  Pemba,  near 
Zanzibar,  but  I  fancy  this  is  a  mistake.  Gypohierax  is  found 
^^,  throughout  the  forest  region  of  West  Africa  and  its  extension 

^1^^'^  to  Lake  Nyasa  I  have  already  cited  as  one  of  the  instances  of 

f^^3^k  western   forms   penetrating  into  British   Central  Africa.      The 

V    i-AV^  Osprey  is  common,  so  is  the  Egyptian  Kite ;  and  most  of  the 

genera   of  hawks,   buzzards,   and   falcons   are   represented    by 
various  species. 

A  remarkable  bird  from  its  affinities  is  the  Naked-Cheeked 
Serpent  Hawk  {Polyboroides  typicus).  This  bird  is  very  closely 
allied  to  the  parent  form  from. which  the  Old  World  vultures 
originated,  and  is  also  connected  with  a  still  more  primitive 
Accipitrine,  the  Secretary  bird  of  South  and  East  Africa. 
Strange  to  say  the  Secretary  Vulture  which  is  so  common  in 
South  Africa,  and  which  I  have  myself  seen  in  East  Africa,^ 
has  not  yet  been  recorded  from  the  south- central  portion  of  the 
^  continent.^  being  another  of  those  forms  (apparently)  whose 

A  SMALL  FALCON  distribution  is  interrupted  by  British  Central  Africa.  Its  place 
iFako  minor)  is  to  some  extent  taken  by  its  relative,  Polyboroides^  which 
greatly  resembles  it  in  its  habits,  especially  as  regards  the 
killing  of  snakes  and  other  reptiles.  The  toes  of  Polyboroides  are  short,  though 
not  so  disproportionately  short  as  in  the  more  bustard-like  Secretary  Vulture. 
The  leg  has  extraordinary  mobility ;  it  can  to  some  extent  be  bent  backwards 
as  well  as  forwards  at  the  tarsus.  The  legs  are  long,  though  not  as  long  as  in 
the  secretary  bird.  Polyboroides  has  the  feathers  on  the  back  of  the  head  and 
down  the  neck  prolonged  into  a  kind  of  crest. 

The  Gallinaceous  birds  are  represented  by  two  species  of  guinea  fowl, 
several  species  of  francolin,  and  a  couple  of  quails.  One  guinea  fowl  is  far 
from  common  and  is  probably  confined  to  the  southern  and  eastern  parts  of 
this  natural  sub-region — the  crested  guinea  fowl  {Guttera  edouardi).  The  other 
guinea  fowl  found  in  enormous  numbers  throughout  all  British  Central  Africa 
except  on  the  higher  mountains  is  one  of  the  commoner  species — the  homed 
guinea  fowl.^  Although  this  bird  is  a  rapid  runner  and  frequents  the  ground 
a  good  deal  in  search  of  its  food,  it  is  not  perhaps  sufficiently  realised  how  fond 
it  is  of  trees.     It  is  never  found  far  away  from  a  forest  and  often  roosts  high 

^  It  is  also  found  in  Senegambia  and  the  Nigerian  Sudan. 

^  Though  it  is  found  as  far  north  as  the  Zambezi  Valley  where  the  natives  call  it  5!'oma, 

^  Almost  exactly  like  the  domestic  bird. 


ZOOLOGY  347 

up  on  the  branches  during  the  hot  hours  of  the  day  as  well  as  at  night 
The  young  poults  are  caught  by  the  natives  and  brought  for  sale  to  the 
European  in  whose  fowl  yards  they  become  quickly  domesticated.  Yet,  strange 
to  say,  the  native  in  this  case  as  in  that  of  all  other  birds  and  beasts  of  Africa, 
has  no  idea  of  keeping  them  about  his  own  home.  His  only  domestic  animals 
and  birds  are  those  which  he  has  had  introduced  to  him  either  from  the  north, 
through  Egypt,  or  by  the  Portuguese.  The  young  guinea  fowl  not  only  take 
very  rapidly  to  domestication,  but  with  a  little  personal  attention  will  become 
extremely  attached  to  their  owners — ridiculously  attached  I  might  say — in  such 
a  manner  as  is  never  exhibited  by  the  domestic  fowl.  One  of  Uiese  birds 
at  Zomba  used  to  be  called  the  "  Sergeant."  It  was  the  most  extraordinarily 
tame  creature  that  I  have  ever  known  amongst  Gallinaceous  birds,  who  as 
a  rule  though  easily  domesticated  evince  very  little  affection.  But  this  guinea 
fowl  would  not  only  go  for  long  w^lks  with  us  but  would  every  now  and  then 
run  in  front  of  us  and  perform  strange  love  antics.  It  disliked  the  negroes  and 
often  chased  them  away  by  pecking  at  their  heels  unless,  that  is,  they  were 
obviously  engaged  in  work  with  us.  For  instance  if  a  squad  of  native  police 
were  being  put  through  their  drill  then  the  guinea  fowl  in  a  pompous  manner 
would  march  alongside  the  officer  and  not  annoy  the  men,  but  if  an  idle  native 
came  up  to  beg  the  bird  was  at  him  in  a  moment  and  would  drive  him  away 
for  some  distance.  This  was  not  an  isolated  case  as  several  other  guinea  fowl 
have  made  nearly  equally  affectionate  pets.  There  are  two  species  of  francolins 
and  one  of  Ptemistes,  This  latter  is  a  type  of  francoHn  which  has  the  skin  of 
the  head  and  a  portion  of  the  neck  and  face  bare  and  brightly  coloured.  The 
francolins  are  remarkably  good  birds  for  the  table,  in  size  and  flavour  something 
between  a  pheasant  and  a  partridge.  Unfortunately  they  are  not  readily  domesti- 
cated, being  in  this  respect  quite  different  from  the  guinea  fowl.  In  captivity 
they  sulk  and  generally  die  after  a  few  months  from  deprivation  of  their  liberty. 

That  curious  low  type  of  Gallinaceous  bird — the  Hemipode — is  represented 
by  two  species — Tumix  nana  and  T,  lepurana. 

Finally,  I  may  again  draw  the  reader's  attention  to  the  fact  that  the  Ostrich 
is  not  present  iri  British  Central  Africa. 

APPENDIX   III. 
LIST  OF   BIRDS   RECORDED  FROM   BRITISH  CENTRAL  AFRICA 

Note. — This  list  is  mainly  based  on  the  papers  published  in  the  Proceedings  of  the  Zoological 
Society  by  Captain  G.  E.  Shelley,  to  which  I  add  a  few  notes  of  my  own.  I  have  also  inserted  the  names 
of  species  known  to  be  present  in  this  country,  though  not  represented  by  skins  sent  home.  These 
additional  names  are  placed  between  brackets.  The  order  in  which  the  species  are  arranged  is  slightly 
different  to  the  classincation  adopted  by  Captain  Shelley.  The  abbreviation  sp,  nov,  indicates  that  the 
species  was  first  made  known  by  our  collections. 

Order,  Passeri formes. 

SUNBIRDS. 

Cinnyris  falkensteini;  Falkenstein's  Sun-  |      Chalcomitra  gutturalis, 

bird.  I      Cyanomitra  olivacea, 

Cinnyris  cupreus ;  the  Copper-tinted  Sun-  AnthothrepUs  longuemarii, 

bird  I     Anthothreptes  hypodilus. 

Zosterops  anderssoni;  white-eyed  Honey-bird. 


348 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


Parus  xanthostotnus, 
Salpornis  salvadorii. 


Motacilla  longicauda, 
Motacilla  vidua, 
Anthus  rufulus. 


TITS. 

I     Parus  pallidiventris, 

CREEPERS. 
WAGTAILS   AND   PIPITS. 

Anthus  iineiventrk, 
Macronyx  croceus. 

LARKS. 


Mirafra  fischeri;  Fischer's  Lark. 

BUNTINGS   AND   FINCHICS. 


Emberiza  flaviventris, 
Emberiza  orientalis, 
Fringillaria  tahapisu 
Petronia  petranella. 


Passer  diffusus, 

Serinus  icterus 

Serifius  imberbis  \  African  Canaries. 

Serinus  scotops 


«  1 

rbis  r 
t>s     ) 


WEAVER    BIRDS   AND   WAXBILLS. 


Hypochera  funerea, 
Hypochera  nigerrima. 
Vidua  principalis. 
Vidua  paradisea. 
Coliipasser  ardens. 
Urobrachya  axillaris, 
Pyromelanaflammiceps, 
Pyromelana  nigrifrous, 
Pyromelana  xanthomelcena, 
Pyromelana  taha. 
Pyrenestes  minor  (sp,  nov,), 
Cryptospiza  australis  (sp,  nov,), 
Cryptospiza  reichenowi, 
Coccopygia  dufresnii, 
Spermestes  scutatus. 
Estrilda  minor, 
Estrilda  angolensis. 


Oriolus  larvatus, 
Oriolus  notatus. 


Lagonosticta  rhodoparia. 
Lagonosticta  niveiguttata, 
Pytelia  afra, 
Pytelia  melba, 
Amblyospiza  albifrons, 
Ploceipasser  pectoralis, 
Anapiectes  rubriceps. 
Pycobrotus  stictifrons, 
Pitagra  ocularia, 
Xanthophilus  xantkops, 
Hyphantomis  nigriceps, 
Hyphantornis  bertrandi  (sp,  nov,), 
Hyphantornis  cabonisi, 
Hyphantornis  xanthopterus, 
Hyphantornis  velatus, 
Hyphantornis  nyasce  (sp,  nov,). 


ORIOLES. 


Oriolus    chlorocephalus 
green-headed  Oriole. 


{sp,    nov.);    the 


STARLINGS. 


[Buphaga  erythrorhyncha] ;  the  red-billed 

Ox-pecker. 
Pholidauges  verreauxi. 


Lamprotornis  mroesi, 

Lamprocolius  sycobius ;  the  glossy  Starling. 

Amydrus  morio. 


ZOOLOGY 


349 


CROWS. 


Corvultur   albicollis;    the 
great  billed  Raven. 


Prionops  talacoma. 
Sigmodus  tricolor, 

Campophaga  nigra, 
Campophaga  hartlaubi. 


white -necked 


Corvus  scapulatus ;  the  black  and  white 

Crow. 
\Corvus  capensis,"] 


CROW-SHRIKES. 

I     Buchanga  assimilis, 

I 

CUCKOO-SHRIKES. 

I      Graucalus  pectoralis. 


SHRIKES. 


Fiscus  collaris. 
Enneoctonus  collurio. 
Nilaus  capensis, 
Nilaus  nigritemporalis, 
Laniarius  inosambicus 
Dryoscopus  cubia, 

Crateropus  kirki;  Kirk's  "Babbler." 

Pycnonoius  layardi;  Layard's  Bulbul. 
Criniger fusciceps  {sp,  nov.), 
Criniger  placida, 
Criniger  ftavostriat us. 


Telephonus  senegaius. 
Telephonus  anchidcB, 
Peiicinius  bertrandi  {sp,  nov.). 
Malaconotus  poliocephalus, 
Malaconotus  sulphureipectus, 
Nicator  gularis. 


BABBLERS. 


BULBULS. 


Criniger  olivaceiceps  {sp,  nov,), 
Andropadus  zombensis  {sp,  nov,), 
Andropadus  oleaginus. 
Phyllostrophus  cerviniveniris  {sp.  nov.). 


WARBLERS   AND   THRUSHES. 


Eremomela  scotops, 
Camaroptera  olivacea, 
Sylviella  whytei  {sp,  nov,). 
Apalis  flavigularis  {sp,  nov,), 
Prinia  mystacea. 
Cisticola  dnerascens, 
Cisticoia  subruficapilla, 
Cisticola  strangii, 
Melocichla  orientalis. 
Schoenicola  apicalis, 
Brattypterus  brachypterus. 
Bradypterus  nyassce  (sp,  nov.), 
Acrocephalus  turdoides, 
Sylvia  hortensis, 
Erythropygia  zambeziana. 

Saxicola  galtoni, 
Thamnolcea  sabnifipcnnis. 


Cichladusa  arcuata, 

Cossypha  ncUalensis. 

Cossypha  heuglini, 

Cossypha  caffra, 

Cossypha  quadrrinrgata, 

Callene  anomala  {sp,  noif,), 

Pratincola  torquata, 

Tarsiger  johnstoni  {sp,  noi',), 

Daulias Philomela;  the  Eastern  Nightingale. 

Turdus  milanjensis  {sp,  nov,);  the  Mlanje 

Thrush. 
2  Urdus  libonianus, 
Turdis  gumeyi. 
Monticola  angolensis. 


WHEATEARS. 

I       Saxicola  pileata. 


350 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


Bradyomis  pallidus, 
Bradyomis  murinus. 
Bradyomis  ater. 
Muscicapa  grisola, 
Muscicapa  ccsruiescens. 
Alseonax  adusta, 
Smithorms  capensis. 

SWALLOWS. 

Hirundo  rustica ;  the  common  Swallow.        |     Hirundo  pueiia. 
Hirundo  asiigma  (sp,  nov,). 


FLY   CATCHERS. 

Platysiira  peltata. 
Pachyprora  molitor. 
Pachyprora  dimorpha  {sp,  nov.). 
Terpsiphone  perspicillata, 
Trochocercus  albonotatus, 
Trochocercus  cyanomelas. 


Melanobucco  zombcR  {sp.  nov.), 
Smilorhis  leucotis, 
Smtiorhis  whytei  {sp.  nov,). 


Order,  Piciformes. 

BARBETS. 

Barbatula  extoni, 
Barbatula  bilintata. 


WOODPECKERS. 


Campothera  abingdoni, 
Campothera  cailiiaudi. 
Campothera  smithii. 

Indicator  indicator. 
Indicator  variegatus. 


Campothera  malherbii. 
Dendropicus  zanzibari. 


HONEY-GUIDES. 

Prodotiscus  zambezia  {sp.  nov.). 


Pachycoccyx  validus. 
Cuculus  clamosus. 
Cuculus  solitarius. 
Chrysococcyx  cupreus, 

Colius  erythromelon. 


Schizorhis  concolor, 
Gallirex  chiorochiamys. 


Hapaioderma  narina. 


CUCKOOS. 

Chrysococcyx  klaasi. 
Coccystes  hypopinarius. 
Coccystes  caffer. 
Centropus  natalensis, 

COLIES    OR    MOUSE-BIRDS. 

I      Colius  striatus. 

TURACOS   OR    PLANTAIN   EATERS. 

Turaats  livingstonii. 

TROGONS. 

I     Hapaioderma  vittatum. 


GOATSUCKERS. 

Cosmetornis  vexiiiarius ;  the  long-winged  Goatsucker. 


Cypselus  toulsoni ;  Toulson's  Swift. 


SWIFTS. 


ZOOLOGY 


351 


Glaucidium  capense. 
Glaucidium  feriatum, 
Syrnium  woodfordi, 
JBubo  maculosus. 


Coracias  garrulus. 
Coracias  caudatus. 


Af crops  apiaster, 
Aferops  super ciliosus, 
Aferops  natalensis. 


Alcedo  semitorquata. 
Halcyon  orientalis, 
halcyon  chcHcutensis, 
Ifaicyon  cyanoleucus. 
Halcyon  semicarukus. 


Lophoceros  melanokucus, 
Bycanistes  buccinator. 


Rhinopofuastus  cyanomelas, 
Irrisor  viridis. 


OWLS. 

Scotopelia  pelt, 
Asio  capensts, 
Strix  flammea, 
Strix  capensts, 

ROLLERS. 

Eurystomus  afer, 
Eurystomus  glancurus. 

BEE-EATERS. 

Dicrocercus  hirundinaceus, 
Melittophagus  meridionalis. 
Melittophagus  albifrons. 

KINGFISHERS. 

Corythornis  cyanosiigma, 
Ispidina  natalensis. 
Ceryle  rudis, 
Ceryle  maxima. 

HORNBILLS. 

Bycanistes  cristatus. 

Bucorvus  coffer ;  the  ground  Hornbill. 

HOOPOES  AND   TREE-HOOPOES. 

Upupa  africana  ;  the  African  Hoopoe. 


Pyocephalus  robustus. 
Paocephalus  fuscicapillus. 


Guttera  edouardi ;  the  crested  Guinea- 
fowl. 

Numida  cornuta ;  the  common  Guinea- 
fowl. 


Order,  Psittaci formes. 

PARROTS. 

Agapornis  liliance  (sp.  nov.). 
Order,   Galliformes. 

GALLINACEOUS  BIRDS. 
FRANCOLINS,   GUINEA-FOWLS. 

Piernistes  humboldti. 
Francolinus  shelleyi. 
Francolinus  Johns toni  (sp.  nov.) 


\Excalfactoria  adansoni\ 
Turnix  nana. 


QUAILS. 

I      \Coturnix  capensis\ 

HEMIPODES. 

I      Turnix  kpurana. 


352 


BRITISH    CENTRAL    AFRICA 


SAND   GROUSE. 

PterocUs  gutteralis  ;  the  Mweru  Sand  Grouse. 


Crex  crex, 
Porzana  baillonu 
Rallus  caruiescens, 

Podica  petersi;  the  Finfoot. 
[^Grus  paradisea  /] 


RAILS. 


Limnocorax  niger. 
Gallinula  Moropus, 
Porphyria  smaragdonotus. 


FINFOOTS. 


CRANES. 


BaUarica  chrysopelargus. 


BUSTARDS. 

Otis  meianogaster  ;  the  black-bellied  Bustard. 


[Phanicopterus  roseus]. 


Order,  Phcenicopteriformes. 

FLAMINGOES. 

I      \Phainicopterus  minor]. 


Order,  Accipitriformes. 

SERPENT   HAWKS. 

Polyboroides  typicus ;  the  naked-cheeked  Vulturine  Hawk. 


Neophron  pileatus, 

Melierax  gabar, 
Astur  polizonoides. 

Asturinula  monogrammica. 


VULTURES. 

I      \ptogyps  auricularis  f\ 

SPARROW-HAWKS. 

Accipiter  meianoleucus, 
Accipiter  minullus, 

BUZZARDS. 

I     Buteo  desertorum. 


Lophoaetus  occipitalis ;  the  black  Crested 

Eagle. 
Spizaetus  bellicosus ;  the  Warlike  crested 

Eagle. 


EAGLES. 

Helotarsus  ecaudatus;  the  Tailless  Eagle. 
Haliaetus   vocifer ;    the    Screaming    fish 

Eagle. 
Gypohierax  angoiensis;  the  Vulturine  fish 

Eagle. 


KITES. 

Elanus   cceruleus ;    the    bluish    Swallow-     I     Milvus  egyptius, 

tailed  Kite.  |     Baza  sp.  inc,  (probably  verreauxi). 


Falco  minor, 

Pandion  haliaius ;  the  Osprey. 


FALCONS. 

!      Erythropus  dickinsoni, 

OSPREYS. 


k 


ZOOLOGY  353 


Order,  Ardei formes. 

IBISES. 


Ibis  athiopica  ;  the  sacred  Ibis. 
PUgadis  fakindlus ;  the  glossy  Ibis. 


\Hagedashia    hagedasH\ ;    the    iridescent 
Hagedash  Ibis. 


HERONS. 


Herodias  ralloides ;  the  Squacco  Heron. 
Herodias  alba  ;  the  Great  Egret. 
Herodias  garzetta  ;  the  Lesser  Egret. 
Herodias    bubulcus ;    the    ox-frequenting 

Egret. 
Ardea  dnerea  ;  the  common  Heron. 
Ardea  purpurea  ;  the  purple  Heron. 


Ardea  goliath  ;  the  Goliath  Heron. 

Ardea  melanocephala, 

Ardea  ardesiaca 

Biitorides  atricapilla, 

Nycticorax  nycticorax  ;  the  night  Heron. 

Botaiirus  pusillus  ;  the  little  Bittern. 

Ardetta  sturmi. 


Scopus  umbretta ;  the  tufted  Umbre. 

STORKS. 

[OV<?«/<flra^^/w//];  the  White-bellied  Stork.  Anastomus  lameliigerus ;  the  shell-eating 

\^Mycteria  senega/ensis];  the  Saddle-billed 

Stork. 
Leptoptilus  argala  ;  the  Marabu  Stork. 


Stork. 
[  ]  Tantalus  ibis] ;  the  Tantalus  Stork. 


Order,  Pelecaniformes. 

PELICANS   AND   CORMORANTS. 

Phalacrocorax  africanus ;  the  small  Cor-     1  Plotus  levaillanti ;  the  Darter  or  Snake- 

morant.  i  bird. 

[?  Phalacrocorax  gutturalis])  the  white-     '  Pelecanus  minor ;  the  small  Pelican. 

necked  Cormorant.  |  [  i  Pelecanus  onocrotalus] ;  the  large  Pelican 

i  (on  Lake  Tanganyika). 

Order,  Podicipedidiformes. 
Podiceps  capensis  ;  the  South  African  Grebe. 

Order,  Anseriformes. 
geese  and  ducks. 

Plectropterus  gambensis  ;  spur-winged  Goose. 

Sarcidiornis  melanonota  ;  knob-nosed  Goose. 

Chenalopex  cegyptiacus ;  Egyptian  Goose. 

Dendrocycna  viduata  \ 

Dendrocycna  fulva      >  Tree  Ducks. 

Dendrocycna  arcuata  ) 

Anas  sparsa  I  rp        T^     i 

J,  .II  )■  True  Ducks. 

Anas  xantnornynca  j 

Querquedula  punctata  ;  the  African  Teal. 

Pcecilonetta  erythrorhyncha  ;  the  red-billed  Duck 

Nyroca  brunnca  ;  the  brownish  Pochard. 

Thalassiornis  leuconota  ;  the  stiff-tailed  Duck. 

23 


354  BRITISH   CENTRAL   AFRICA 

Order,  Charadrii formes. 
Parra  africana  ;  the  "  Lily-trotter  '*  or  Ja^ana. 
(Edicnemus  capmsis  ;  the  Thick-knee. 
Cursorius  {Rhinopiilus)  chalcopieros  ;  a  Courser. 
Glareola  pratincola  ;  the  collared  Pratincole. 

PLOVERS. 

Lobivandlus  albiceps    \  ^  .        ,  ,^, 

Lobivandlus  senfgalus  ]  SP"r-W'nged  Plovers. 

Vanellus  inomatus     v 

Vanellus  speciosus        )  lapwings. 

Vanellus  crassirostris  ^ 

Vanellus  leucopUrus    ) 

Charadriuspecuarius  \  ^^^^^  p,^^^^^ 

Oxyechus  trtcollarts     j 

SNIPE    AND   STILT    PLOVERS. 

Tringa  subarquata ;  a  Knot.  i  Gallinago  nigripcnnis ;  the  South  African 

Tringa  minuta.  \  Woodcock. 

Machetes  pugnax ;  the  common  Ruff.  !  Rhynchi^a  capensis ;  the  painted  Snipe. 

Toianus  hypoleucus  \  Himantopus  himaniopus ;  the  Stilt  Plover. 

Totanus  glareola     >  Greenshanks.  | 

Toianus  nebularius)  \ 

Order,  Lari formes. 

GULLS. 

Larus  cirrhocephalus ;  the  striped-headed  Gull. 
Hydrochelidon  leucoptera;  the  white-winged  Tern. 
Rhynchgps  flavirostris  ;  the  orange-beaked  Scissorbill. 

Order,  Columbi formes. 

PIGEONS. 

Vinago  delalandii  ;  Delalande*s  Fruit-pigeon. 
Columba  arquatrix;  the  Great  purple  Wood-pigeon. 
Haplopelia  johnstoni  (sp,  nov.) ;  Johnston's  Dove. 
Turiur  scniitorquatus  \  ^  _ 

Turturcapicola  |  Turtle  Doves. 

Chalcopelia  afra;  the  bronze-spotted  ground  Dove. 
Tympanistria  iympanistria ;  the  white-breasted  Wood-dove. 


ZOOLOGY  355 

The  Crocodile  is  the  most  striking  reptile  in  British  Central  Africa  on  account 
of  its  abundance  and  the  enormous  size  to  which  some  specimens  attain.  As 
far  as  we  know  there  is  but  one  species  represented  in  this  part  of  the  continent^ 
and  that  is  the  common  African  crocodile  {Crocodilus  niloticus).  At  the  same 
time  I  would  point  out  a  fact  which  I  have  noticed  here  as  in  West  Africa,  that 
there  are  crocodiles  apparently  possessing  the  feature  deemed  peculiar  to  the 
alligators — that  of  two  of  the  lower  tusks  at  the  extremity  of  the  muzzle  fitting 
into  pits  in  the  upper  jaw  on  either  side  of  the  nostrils.  I  have  frequently 
made  efforts  to  send  home  a  skull  showing  this,  but  some  fatality  always  seemed 
to  attend  these  specimens  and  either  none  came  to  hand  or  else  the  point  I  am 
now  describing  was  already  known  to  naturalists  and  was  dismissed  as  of  no 
particular  interest. 

The  River  Shire  is  a  favourite  haunt  of  these  monsters  which  in  that  river  are 
of  exceptionally  large  size  and  great  boldness.  The  power  of  their  jaw  is 
enormous.  A  crocodile  which  used  to  frequent  the  landing-place  at  Chikwawa 
on  the  Lower  Shire  (where  it  carried  off  many  victims  amongst  the  natives),  one 
day  rushed  at  an  iron  pail  which  was  being  let  down  into  the  river  to  draw  up 
water.  It  seized  the  pail,  crumpled  it  up  in  its  mouth  and  drove  great  holes 
through  the  iron  with  its  long  teeth.  The  pail  was  withdrawn  and  for  some 
time  exhibited  as  an  example  of  what  a  crocodile  could  bite  through.  At  Fort 
Johnston,  on  the  Upper  Shire,  near  Lake  Nyasa,  the  crocodiles  would  rush  up 
to  the  very  bank  and  seize  people  heedlessly  standing  near  the  water's  edge. 
Several  of  our  Indian  soldiers  were  killed  in  this  way  until  the  river  bank  was 
guarded  by  a  palisade.  The  crocodile  seldom  eats  its  victim  immediately  it 
has  been  killed  by  drowning.  It  prefers  to  stow  it  away  in  some  crevice  or 
hiding-place  under  the  water  until  it  is  partially  decomposed.  The  normal  diet 
of  these  reptiles  is  fish  without  which,  of  course,  they  would  scarcely  exist,  as  it 
is  only  a  rare  incident  for  them  to  capture  a  mammal  of  any  size ;  an  incident 
which,  given  a  number  of  crocodiles  in  any  stream  or  lake,  can  only  occur  to 
each  one  at  most  once  a  year  on  an  average.  Curiously  enough  they  do  not 
appear  to  eat  water  birds.  Some  sportsmen  have  told  me  that  when  they  shot 
ducks  or  geese  and  the  birds  fell  into  the  water,  the  crocodiles  have  snapped 
them  up,  but  such  an  incident  has  never  been  witnessed  by  myself  In  lagoons 
and  on  sluggish  rivers  where  the  water  is  covered  with  floating  pelicans,  spur- 
winged  geese,  ducks  of  all  kinds,  cormorants  and  gulls,  and  in  the  shallower 
parts  with  innumerable  wading  birds,  crocodiles  are  also  present,  their  heads 
appearing  just  above  the  surface  of  the  water,  amongst  the  birds,  or  their  bodies 
laid  out  in  the  sun  on  sand  banks  or  propped  against  stranded  trees.  On  the 
sand  they  may  be  seen  lying  fast  asleep  while  water  birds  of  all  descriptions 
are  standing  about  them.  I  confess  except  in  the  case  of  the  spur-winged 
plover  which  warns  the  crocodile  of  danger,  I  cannot  understand  why  this 
pact  should  exist  between  the  graceful  and  the  grotesque,  and  why  birds 
should  enjoy  an  immunity  denied  to  mammals.  Yet  it  is  true  that  mammals 
can  co-exist  with  crocodiles  in  the  water,  for  otters  are  very  plentiful  on  the 
Upper  Shire  and  the  crocodile  and  hippopotamus  do  not  appear  to  fall  foul 
of  one  another.  Yet  men,  baboons,  lions,  leopards,  antelopes  of  all  kinds 
approaching  the  water's  edge  are  liable  to  be  seized  and  dragged  under  by 
the  crocodile. 

Although  so  many  natives  lose  their  lives  every  year  as  victims  of  the 
crocodile  the  negroes  of  Central  Africa  are  singularly  careless  of  danger  in  this 
respect.     As  a  rule  the  crocodile  never  attacks  human  beings  when  there  are  a 


356  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

number  of  them  together  in  the  water.     It  is  only  when  a  man  or  woman  is 
alone  that  the  crocodile  makes  his  rush. 

As  regards  the  crocodile's  movements  it  docs  not  appear  to  be  realised  by 
most  people  how  he  gets  over  the  ground.  I  find  there  is  a  general  idea  that  in 
some  way  the  crocodile  slithers  along  on  its  stomach  till  it  reaches  the  water. 
As  a  matter  of  fact  the  great  reptile  walks  or  runs  over  the  ground  on  its  feet 
with  the  body  carried  horizontally  and  raised  some  inches  above  the  surface  of 
the  soil.  In  this  way  it  trots  along  on  its  short  legs  in  a  manner  which  is 
neither  imposing  nor  picturesque,  but  which  seems  consistent  with  rapid  move- 
ment. I  have  never  seen  this  represented  in  pictures  which  are  either  done 
from  dead  crocodiles  or  represent  the  animal  at  rest  on  its  stomach. 

The  Tortoise  order  is  represented  by  the  CinyxiSy  or  Hinged  tortoise 
{C,  belliana\  by  various  species  of  Testudo,  by  the  Stemothcerus^  and  in  the 
lakes  and  rivers  by  soft  leathery-skinned  tortoises  of  the  genus  Cyclodert9ia. 
The  last-named  are  carnivorous.  Their  shells  are  leathery  and  are  not  out- 
wardly divided  into  segments.  The  upper  jaw  is  prolonged  into  a  short 
proboscis.  These  river  tortoises  which  spend  the  greater  part  of  their  lives 
in  the  water  and  mud  are  very  fierce  and  with  their  horny  jaws  can  give  a 
severe  bite. 

Varanus  lizards  are  common  and  sometimes  attain  six  feet  in  length, 
measured  from  the  tip  of  the  very  long  tail.  They  are  altogether  carnivorous 
and  subsist  chiefly  on  small  mammals  and  birds,  but  their  favourite  article  of 
diet  is  eggs.  As  the  skin  of  this  lizard  under  the  name  of  **  Iguana  "  is  much 
used  nowadays  for  making  bags  and  purses  it  might  be  worth  while  to  export 
Varanus  skins  from  this  part  of  Africa,  as  it  would  encourage  the  natives  to 
keep  down  these  mischievous  reptiles  which  cause  much  damage  in  poultry 
yards  by  eating  the  eggs  and  killing  the  fowls. 

Among  other  lizards  may  be  mentioned  the  handsome  Agama  {A.  colonorum 
or  a  closely  allied  species)  which  appears  to  extend  its  range  from  West  Africa 
where  it  is  extremely  common.  This  Agama  is  almost  the  prettiest  coloured 
of  all  lizards,  the  male  having  an  orange-scarlet  head  and  throat,  a  steel-blue 
body  whicH  in  parts  becomes  cobalt,  while  the  upper  half  of  the  tail  is  deep 
blue  and  the  remainder  bright  red  (the  female  is  olive,  spotted  with  brown). 
The  most  vivid  development  of  these  colours  is  certainly  seen  in  West  Africa ; 
indeed  the  species  I  have  observed  in  Nyasaland  is  apt  to  have  the  scarlet  tints 
replaced  by  orange  while  the  blue  is  a  little  less  vivid.  Three  other  species  of 
Agama  not  so  remarkable  for  beauty  have  been  sent  home  by  us.  Unfor- 
tunately the  Agama  with  the  gorgeous  colours  loses  them  rapidly  after  death. 
We  have  discovered  five  species  of  chameleon,  belonging  to  the  genera 
Chaviceleon  and  Rafnpholeoft.  All  these  were  new  to  science.  One  of  these 
chameleons  attains  a  very  considerable  size  in  the  male — about  eighteen  inches 
from  the  tip  of  the  snout  to  the  tip  of  the  tail.  This  animal  can  give  a 
severe  bite  owing  to  the  strength  of  its  jaws  and  the  sharpness  of  the  ridges 
of  serrated  bone  which  constitute  its  teeth.  It  is  very  savage  and  will 
occasionally  dart  at  the  hand,  open-mouthed.  The  male  has  a  great  scaly 
horn   projecting  from  his  head. 

Although  venomous  snakes  are  so  well  represented  —  for  we  have  at 
least  one  cobra,  a  tree  cobra  {Dendraspis),  a  horned  viper,  the  puff-adder, 
and  the  Cape  viper  (Caustis) — it  is  wonderful  how  seldom  one  hears  of 
natives  dying  from  the  bite  of  a  snake.  The  cobras  are  chiefly  dangerous 
to  live-stock.     They  kill   and  carry  off  ducks  and  fowls,  and  sometimes  out 


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■■'Tyj 


ZOOLOGY  359 

of  sheer  ill  temper  have  struck  at  and  killed  a  tame  crane  or  a  young  antelope. 
The  cobra  or  one  of  the  cobras  which  inhabit  this  part  of  Africa  has  the 
extraordinary  faculty  of  ejecting  its  venom  by  a  spasmodic  movement  of  the 
muscles  pressing  on  the  poison  gland  in  such  a  way  as  to  spurt  the  venom 
through  the  air.  for  a  considerable  distance  from  the  {perforated  tooth.  The 
snake  is  said  to  aim  at  the  eyes  and  if  the  poison  enters  the  eye  it  apparently 
sets  up  a  severe  inflammation,  though  it  is  only  fatal  if  it  manages  to  enter  the 
blood.  On  the  Congo,  as  in  South  Africa,  the  same  peculiarity  is  noticed  in  this 
snake,  which  for  this  reason  is  called  by  the  Boers  "  the  spitting  snake." 

In  all  my  seven  years'  experience  of  British  Central  Africa  I  cannot  recall 
a  single  instance  occurring  within  my  knowledge  of  a  native,  European  or 
Indian  having  been  killed  by  a  poisonous  snake.  Of  course  I  would  not  allege 
that  such  cases  do  not  occur  amongst  the  natives  (who  have  a  great  dread 
of  snakes) ;  I  only  say  that  although  continually  enquiring  I  have  never  had  an 
instance  brought  to  my  notice.  On  two  occasions,  at  least,  my  servants  were 
struck  by  puff-adders,  but  the  wound  having  been  cauterized  and  the  men  dosed 
with  enormous  quantities  of  whisky  a  complete  recovery  ensued.  Of  course  it 
is  possible  for  the  puff-adder  to  bite  without  causing  death  even  if  no  remedies 
are  taken,  as  the  poison  gland  is  sometimes  exhausted  or  even  at  some  seasons 
of  the  year  less  well  supplied  than  at  others.  When  we  first  set  to  work  to 
clear  the  site  of  a  town  at  Chiromo  in  1891-92  snakes  were  all  over  the  place. 
They  chiefly  inhabited  the  huge  ant  hills  of  the  termites,  but  wherever  they 
came  from  they  swarmed  over  the  newly-cleared  ground,  especially  in  the  cool 
evening.  On  one  occasion  walking  up  the  main  street  in  the  dusk  I  heard 
a  low  hissing  sound  under  my  feet,  stopped  short,  and  a  long  cobra  glided  out 
from  between  my  feet,  making  no  gesture  of  menace  but  quietly  retiring  to 
a  neighbouring  dust  heap.  I  am  almost  ashamed  to  say  I  killed  it  here, 
crippling  it  with  clods  of  earth,  but  considering  its  magnanimity  when  crawling 
between  my  legs  it  deserved  to  live.  Yet,  during  all  this  period  I  never  once 
heard  of  a  native  or  European  being  bitten  at  Chiromo,  and  certainly  no  one 
died  from  any  such  cause.  The  natives,  however,  speak  with  great  dread  of 
certain  snakes,  above  all  of  the  Mamba,  or  tree  cobra  {Dendraspis)  which  in 
the  breeding  season  is  very  savage  and  will  dart  out  from  the  grass  or  bush  and 
attack  passers-by. 

Pythons  are  sometimes  met  with  of  a  very  large  size ;  one  that  was 
measured  was  18  feet  2  inches  long.  Of  course  they  are  not  poisonous  and 
are  only  dangerous  if  anybody  deliberately  placed  himself  in  contact  with  the 
snake  and  allowed  it  to  coil  round  and  crush  him.  As  a  matter  of  fact  the 
python  is  a  rather  defenceless  creature,  inasmuch  as  its  bulk  is  large  and  it 
is  easily  wounded,  while  not  being  as  agile  as  smaller  snakes  in  escaping  or 
having  any  powers  of  defence  but  actual  contact.  Yet  pythons  will,  if  suddenly 
disturbed,  be  ready  to  stand  at  bay.  Once  near  the  north  end  of  Lake  Nyasa  I 
suddenly  disturbed  a  python  in  a  thicket  through  which  I  was  groping  along 
a  native  path.  The  snake  barred  my  way  and  was  so  menacing  that  I  had 
to  return  to  the  camp  and  get  a  gun  to  shoot  it. 

There  is  nothing  specially  remarkable  about  the  Batrachians  so  far  as  they 
are  yet  known.  A  list  of  those  that  have  been  identified  will  be  found  among 
the  appendices  to  this  chapter. 

That  remarkable  connecting  link,  the  mud  fish  {Protopterus)  should  be 
found  in  most  parts  of  British  Central  Africa,  but  hitherto  it  has  only  been 
reported  from  the  Tanganyika  district.     The  French  missionaries  on  that  lake 


360 


BRITISH   CENTRAL  AFRICA 


assert  that  the  female  carries  the  ova  in  a  kind  of  sac  attached  to  her  abdomen, 
until  they  are  hatched. 

Dr.  Gunther  is  of  opinion  that  barely  a  third  of  the  fish  in  the  rivers  and 
lakes  of  British  Central  Africa  have  as  yet  been  made  known  in  spite  of  our 
recent  collections.  He  is  probably  right,  and  remarkable  discoveries  may  yet 
await  us,  especially  on  Tanganyika,  where  numerous  travellers  have  reported  the 
existence  of  an  exceedingly  large  fish  which  occasionally  rushes  at  boats  in  a 


Chromis  squatnifennis 


Hem  ich  rotn  is  Ihnttgston  ii 
FISH     OF     LAKE      N  Y  A  S  A 

threatening  manner.  Similar  rumours  of  a  very  large  fish  in  Nyasa  are 
prevalent.  Both  Commander  Cullen  and  Lieutenant-Commander  Rhoades  (of 
the  Lake  Nyasa  gunboats)  have  reported  curious  circumstances  tending  to  show 
that  some  very  large  fish  or  marine  animal  lives  in  Lake  Nyasa,  which  amongst 
other  things  can  bite  oflT  and  carry  away  as  a  bait  the  brass  log  which  is  towed 
behind  the  vessels.  It  may  not  be  more  than  a  huge  species  of  Bagrus,  a 
Siluroid  fish.  Specimens  of  this  creature  have  been  already  obtained  which 
reached  nearly  six  feet  in  length. 

The  fish  of  Lake  Nyasa,  of  Lake  Chilwa  and  of  the  Upper  Shire  offer  many 
examples  which  are  excellent  for  eating,^  with  firm  white  flesh  and  few  bones. 

^  A  new  genus  of  fish  was  obtained  from  Lake  Nyasa — Engraiilicypris  pingttis.  Dr.  Gunther  says 
of  this  fish  :  **  It  might  be  preserved  in  a  way  similar  to  anchovies  and  would  form  a  usefiil  addition  to 
the  food  of  the  European  community."  By  the  courtesy  of  the  Zoological  Society  I  am  enabled  to  give 
an  illustration  of  it  here. 


ZOOLOGY 


361 


This  is  also  characteristic  of  the  fish  of  Tanganyika  and  almost  all  the  other  big 
lakes  and  rivers,  though  except  where  the  river  is  sluggish  and  somewhat 
lacustrine,  the  fish  appear  to  be  small  and  singularly  full  of  bones.  Most  of  the 
ordinary  streams  contain  fish  of  cyprinoid  type,  more  or  less  like  the  barbel. 


EngrauHcypHs  pingitis 


APPENDIX   IV. 

LIST    OF    THE    REPTILES,    BATRACHIANS,   AND    FISHES 
RECORDED    FROM    BRITISH    CENTRAL    AFRICA 

Note. — This  list  is  mainly  based  on  the  papers  published  by  Dr.  A.  Gunther  and  Mr.  G.  A.  Boulenger, 
in  the  Proceedings  of  the  Zoological  Society.  I  have  also  inserted  the  names  of  species  known  to  be 
present  in  the  country,  though  not  represented  by  specimens  sent  home.  These  additions  are  placed 
between  brackets. 

Class,  REPTILIA. 

Order,  Crocodilia. 

\Crocodilus  nilotiais] ;  the  common  Crocodile. 

Order,  Chelonia. 

[T^s/udo  calcarata]  \  Cinyxis  belliana ;  ^  the  Hinged  Tortoise. 

\Testudo pardaHs\    1^       T    t  *  Sitrnothcsrus  sinuatus, 

\Testudo  geometricd]  |  *  Cycloderma  frenatum  ;  the  Soft  Tortoise. 

\Testudo  anguiata]  J  Aquatic :  ordinarily  known  as  the 

yHomopus  femoralis\    \  Areolated  Lake  Nyasa  Turtle.     Carnivorous. 

\lIomopus  areolcUus  i\  f  Tortoises. 

Order,  Squamata. 

LIZARDS. 

Lygodactylus  angularis  {sf.  natf.). 
[Agama  colonorumP[ 
Agama  atricollis. 


Hemidactylus  mabouia ;  a  Gecko. 

Mabouia  varia  \ 

Mabouia  quinquetaniata    ^i  •  1 
o^  •      4*1*1  ySkmks. 

Sepstna  tetradactyla 

Lygosotna  sundevalli       J 

Gerrhosaurus  flavigularis. 

Lygodactylus  capensis. 


Agama  mossanibica, 

Agama  kirkii, 

Varanus  albigularis  \  ^^     •*.     t  •      j 

?,  \  Monitor  Lizards. 

Varanus  occdlatus     ) 


CHAMELEONS. 

ChamaUon  dilepis ;  Flap-necked  Chame-     |      Chamceieon  melleru 


leon. 
ChamaUon  isabellinus  {sp,  nov.). 


Rhampholeon  platyceps  (sp,  nov,). 
RhamphoUon  brachyurus  (sp,  hoik). 


Sent  alive  to  the  Zoological  Gardens.  ' 


362 


BRITISH    CENTRAL    AFRICA 


Sub-Order,  Ophidta. 

NON-VENOMOUS   SNAKES. 


Typhlops  obtusus ;  the  Burrowing  Snake. 
\Python    seb(B\ ;     the     common    African 

Python. 
Uriechis  cafensis, 
Coronella  olivacea^  var.  dumerilii. 
Homalosoma  lutrix. 
Dasypeliis  scabra. 
Psammophylax  variabilis  {sp,  twv.) ;  the 

Rat  Snake. 


Boodon  iineatus. 

Lcptodira  rufescens. 

Lycophidium  horstockii, 

Ahatulla  irregularis, 

Ahietulla  tifglecta, 

Dryiophis  oaUsii, 

Fsammophis  sibilans    )  Hissing  Sand 

Ditto,  var.  intermedia  j  Snakes. 


VENOMOUS    SNAKES. 


Naja  nigricollis ;  the  Black- necked  Cobra. 

\Naja  flava  T\ ;  the  South  African  Cobra : 
?  the  Spitting  Cobra. 

\Dendraspis    angusiiceps f\\     the    Tree- 
Cobra;  the  dreaded  "  Mamba." 


Causus  rostratus, 

Causus  rhombeatus ;  the  Cape  Viper. 
Bitis  arietans ;  the  Puff  Adder. 
Bitis  gabonica  ;  the  "  River  Jack  ^  Viper 
of  West  Africa. 


Rana  johnstoni  {sp.  nov.). 
Rana  nyassce  {sp.  nov  J), 
Rana  fasciata, 
Breviceps  mossambicus, 
Scolecomorphus  kirkii. 


Class,    AMPHIBIA. 
Order,  Ecaudata. 

I      Cassina  senegalensis, 
Bufo  regularis, 
Arthroleptis  macrodactyla, 
Rappia  cinctiventris . 
Rappia  vasata. 


Class,  PISCES. 
Sub-Class,  Dipnoi. 
{Protopterus  amiecfens]  ;  the  African  Mud  Fish.     Reported  from  Lake  Tangan)dka,  but 
not  elsewhere  in  B.C. A. 

Sub-Class,  Teleostomi. 

[Order,  Actinoptervgii.] 

Heffiichromis  afer  {sp,  nov,). 


Chromis  squamipennis. 
Chromis  subocularis, 
Chromis  mossambicus, 
Chromis  johnstoni  {sp,  nov,), 
Chromis  lethriniis  {sp,  nov,), 
Chromis  rendalli  {sp,  nov,), 
Chromis  ielrastigma  {sp.  nov.). 
Chromis  callipterus  {sp.  nov,), 
Chromis  kirkii  {sp.  nov.). 
Chromis  williamsi  {sp,  nov.). 
Hemichromis  modes tus  {sp.  nov.). 
Hemichromis  livingstonii  {sp.  nov.). 
Hemichromis  robustus. 
Hemichromis  dimidiatus, 
Hemichromis  longiceps. 


Oreochromis  shiranus  {sp,  nov,). 
Docimodus  johnstoni  {sp,  nai'.). 
Corematodus  shiranus  {sp,  no7f.), 
Bagrus  meridionalis  {sp,  no7'.);  the  great 

Cat  Fish. 
[Afalapterurus,  sp,  inc.  ] ;  the  Electric  Cat 

Fish. 
Zabeo  coubie, 

Barilius  guentheri  {sp.  nov.), 
Engraulicypris  pinguis  ;  new  genus. 
Haplochilus  johnstoni  {sp.  nozf.) 
[PristiSy  sp.  i/ic.] ;  the  Saw-fish. 

This  creature  comes  up  the  River 
Shire  from  the  sea  as  far  as  Chiromo. 


ZOOLOGY  363 

On  most  of  the  well  forested  hills  the  Land  Crabs  of  the  genus  Thelphusa  are 
common. 

It  is  well  known  that  the  water  mollusca  of  Tanganyika  exhibit  some 
resemblance  to  marine  forms ;  it  is  also  stated  that  shrimps  and  sponges  are 
found  in  this  lake  and  MeduscB.  Mr.  J.  Moore,  who  was  dispatched  to 
Tanganyika  by  the  Royal  Society  to  thoroughly  examine  its  marine  fauna 
will  probably,  ere  this  book  is  published,  have  described  his  discoveries  and 
enunciated  his  theories  in  this  respect^ 

APPENDIX   V. 

LIST  OF  LAND  AND  FRESH  WATER  MOLLUSCS  RECORDED 
IN  BRITISH  CENTRAL  AFRICA 

Note. — This  list  is  founded  on  that  published  by  Mr.  Edgai  A.  Smith  in  the  Zoological  Society's 
Proceedings  for  1893,  ^^  ^^^  paper  on  the  collections  sent  home  by  Mr.  Richard  Crawshay  and  myself. 

\Arion  sp.  inc?[ ;  the  large  Black  Slug.  ]       Viviparus  crawshay i  {sp,  hoik), 

Mnnea  hatniltoni  (sp.  nov.).  ^      Viviparus  capillaceus, 
Mnnea  karongana  (sp,  nov.),  Cleopatra  johnstoni  (sp.  nov.), 

Ulix  whytei  {sp.  nov.).  Cleopatra  mweruefisis  {sp.  nav.). 

Livinhacia  nilotica,  Melania  tubercalata, 

Buliminus  stictus,  Melania  nodicincta, 

Limicolaria  martensiana-  Melania  turritospira, 

Achatina;  of  various  uncertain  species.  '      Melania  woodwardi  {sp,  nov.). 
(The  Achatina  are  huge  snails  which  Melania  mweruensis  {sp.  nov.). 

attain  the  largest  size  of  any  terrestrial  Melania  imitatrix  {sp.  nov.). 

gasteropods.)  Melania  crawshay i  {sp.  nov.). 

Ampullaria  ovata.  Physa  nyasana. 

Lanistes  solidus.  '      Physa  karongensis  {sp.  nov.). 

JLanistes  affinis.  \      Planorbis  alexandrina. 

Lanistes  nyassanus.  '      Unio  nyassensis  {sp.  nov.). 
Lanistes  ovum.  Unio  johnstoni  {sp.  nov.). 

Viviparus  tanganyicensis.  Pliodon  spekei. 

Viviparus  mweruensis  {sp.  nov.).  \      Mutela  {Spatha)  nyassensis. 

NOTES  ON   A  COLLECTION   OF 
LAND  AND   FRESH  WATER  SHELLS   FROM  ZOMBA 

By   EDGAR   A.    SMITH. 

This  collection  was  made  by  Mr.  A.  Whyte  on  the  Zomba  plateau  at  an  elevation 
of  500  feet  and  upon  Chiradzulu  Mountain  and  its  slopes  during  July  and  August, 
1895.  It  was  presented  to  the  British  Museum  by  Sir  Harry  Johnston.  The 
species  are   not  very   numerous,  about   thirty  altogether,  but   probably   half  of  them 

*  There  would  seem  to  be,  however,  from  the  collections  of  shells  we  have  sent  home  from  Lakes 
Mweru,  Tanganyika,  and  Nyasa,  a  certain  similarity  in  the  types,  so  that  Lake  Tanganyika  does  not  stand 
quite  alone  in  the  possession  of  a  peculiar  fauna.  In  the  Appendices  I  give  a  list  of  the  land  and  water 
Mollusca  collected  by  us. 


364 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


are  new  to  science.  Many  of  them  are  represented  by  large  series  of  specimens. 
The  large  number  of  new  forms  is  not  altogether  surprising,  as  this  particular 
region  has  not  previously  been  worked  for  land  shells,  and  we  know  that  in  most 
cases  the  African  land  shells  ai'e  not  widely  distributed,  each  having  its  special 
locality.  Of  course  there  are  exceptions,  and  a  very  interesting  one  is  worth 
referring  to,  namely  Kaliella  barrakporensis  of  Pfeiffer.  This  little  snail  was  originally 
described  from  specimens  from  Bengal  and  it  is  also  recorded  from  other  parts  of 
India.  I  have  noted  its  occurrence  in  the  heart  of  Madagascar.  Messrs.  Melvill 
and  Ponsonby  described  it  as  a  new  species  from  the  Transvaal,  under  the  name  of 
Helix  (Trochonanind)  pretoriensis,  and  in  the  British  Museum  collection  there  is 
a  single  specimen  collected  in  Ashanti  by  Mr.  R.  A.  Freeman. 

The  following  list  is  a  summary  of  the  contents  of  the  collection : 


Hdicarion 

4  species. 

Hapalus 

.1  species. 

Pella      . 

I      » 

Achatina 

.     3      » 

Macrochlamys 

2      M 

Subulina 

.     I       „ 

Mariensia 

2      )) 

Opeas    . 

.     3      » 

Kaliella 

I      „ 

Ennea  . 

.     4       » 

Phasis    . 

I      i» 

Streptaxis 

•     I       » 

Natalina  ?      . 

I      >» 

Physopsis 

•       I          n. 

Rhachis, 

2      M 

Pomatias 

•           I               >5 

Buliminus 

3      » 

Lanistes 

.           I               ,, 

It  is  hoped  that  during  the  year  opportunity  will  occur  of  preparing  a  detailed  account 
of  this  very  interesting  collection.  In  the  Proceedings  of  the  Zoological  Society  for 
1893  I  described  a  species  of  Ennea  under  the  narhe  of  E.  johnstoni^  after  the 
administrator  of  British  Central  Africa.  As  this  name  had  already  been  employed 
for  a  West  African  form,  the  opportunity  is  now  taken  of  substituting  that  of 
hamiltoni  for  the  Nyasa  shell,  the  name  having  reference  to  Sir  H.  H.  Johnston's 
second  name. 


In  regard  to  Spiders,  I  append  a  list  of  the  scorpions,  spiders  and  ticks  we 
have  collected. 

There  are  large  hairy  Mygale  spiders,  and  a  handsome  Nephila — usually 
purple-blue  and  yellow — builds  webs  of  great  denseness  and  strength  from 
branch  to  branch  of  the  trees  and  bushes  across  disused  paths.  There  is  a 
spider  resembling  a  species  of  Gastracantha  which  I  have  found  in  the  mangrove 
marshes  in  West  Africa.  This  creature  has  two  extraordinarily  long  spines 
projecting  from  the  sides  of  the  abdomen. 

Scorpions  are  fairly  abundant  and  of  several  species,  two  entirely  new  ones 
having  been  discovered  on  the  island  of  Likoma.  There  is  a  terrible  tick  named 
by  the  Portuguese  "  Carapato,"^  which  inflicts  a  poisonous  bite  causing  swelling, 
great  irritation,  and  occasionally  a  little  fever.  This  tick  is  found  in  the  Arab 
houses  occasionally,  and  people  bitten  by  it  imagine  that  they  have  been 
attacked  by  a  more  than  usually  venomous  bed-bug. 

Centipedes  and  millipedes  are  most  abundant  Occasionally  a  very  lai^ 
centipede  of  greenish-blue  colour  with  yellow  legs  is  met  with.  This  creature 
like  others  of  its  class  is  to  some  extent  phosphorescent.  It  inhabits  the  moist 
soil  of  the  forests,  is  sometimes  as  much  as  six  inches  long,  and  its  bite  is  very 
poisonous.     The  large,  harmless  millipedes  live  on  decaying  vegetation.     They 

^  Probably  of  the  genus  Argas. 


ZOOLOGY  365 

a.re  usually  a  glossy  black  with  innumerable  orange  legs  and  roll  into  a  ball  if 
touched.  Many  of  these  centipedes  in  a  young,  half-grown  stage,  seem  to  swarm 
together.  At  the  beginning  of  the  rains  one  meets  with  them  in  writhing 
masses  on  the  roads. 

Earthworms^  are  present  in  the  soil  of  the  hill  regions — sometimes  of  con- 
siderable size.  Nematoid  worms,  similar  to  that  described  by  Mr.  F.  Jeffrey 
Bell  in  my  book  on  Kilimanjaro,  occasionally  occur  in  the  intestines  of  certain 
mammals  and  in  all  the  larger  forms  of  Mantis  insects.  The  Mantis  appears  to 
be  peculiarly  subject  to  their  attack  and  yet  to  be  able  to  continue  alive  until  it 
has  lost  the  greater  part  of  its  "  inside,"  the  worm  finally  occupying  the  whole 
area  of  the  abdomen.  The  "  Guinea"  worm,  or  tape- worm,  is  said  to  afflict  the 
natives  but  certainly  not  to  the  same  extent  as  in  West  Africa.  No  case  of 
guinea  worm  has  come  within  my  personal  cognizance.  Leeches  are  found  in 
many  localities. 

APPENDIX    VI. 
LIST  OF  ARACHNIDA,  CHILOPODA,  AND  DIPLOPODA 

[Note. — This  list  has  been  made  out  from  our  collections  by  Mr.  R.  I.  Pocock,  of  the  British 
Museum.) 

Scorpions. 
Archisometrus  burdoi. 
'^Scorpio  viatoris. 
*  Opisthacanthus  ruguiosus  {sp,  nov.). 


*Solpuga  paludicola, 

NepMla  malabarensis, 

„        hymencea, 
Gastracantha  formosa. 


SOLIFUGiE. 

Spiders. 


Hi     6  d    \  SP^^^^^  "^^  y^^  determined. 


Ticks. 

Argas  sp,  ?  (closely  allied  to  A,  moubata), 
Trombidiutn  tinctorium;  small  specimens. 

Centipedes  and  Millipedes. 

Dacetum  torigonopoda, 

Trematoptychus  afer, 

Scolopcndra  morsitans, 

*Alipes  appmdiculatus  {sp,  nov.), 

Archispirostreptus  \  ^^  ^  ,  ^       .      , 

^  ,    /^         ^        \  Not  yet  determmed. 
Odontopyge  j  ^ 

o^,        .,     .       1- New,  but  not  yet  described. 

*  Indicates  species  described  and  named  by  Mr.  Pocock. 
*  Called  by  the  natives  **  Nyongolozi." 


366  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

And  now  we  come  to  the  consideration  of  the  last  class  of  animated  beings 
of  which  it  is  necessary  to  treat  in  this  brief  description  of  the  Natural  Histor\- 
of  British  Central  Africa — the  insects:    that  class  which  seems  to  have  been 
created  for  an  almost  wholly  evil  purpose.     If  the  old  idea  still  prevailed  that 
the  Evil   principle  was  personified  by  a  fallen  deity  one  might  well  imagine 
that  the  class  of  insects  was  his  contribution  to  the  life  of  this  planet.     This 
idea  certainly  prevailed  amongst  the  Semitic  people  of  antiquity  who  called 
Beelzebub  "  the  King  of  the  Flies."     From  the  point  of  view  of  man  and  most 
other  mammals  insects  are  the  one  class  among  their  fellow  creatures  which  are 
uniformly  hostile  and  noxious.     And  this  feeling  that  they  were  to  be  combated 
as  the  enemies  of  creation  seems  to  have  perpetually  actuated  the  development 
of  group  after  group  of  new  creatures  to  prey  on  insects.     Fish  crawled  out 
of  the  water  to  pursue  primeval  insects  and  became  amphibians.     Amphibians 
developed  into  reptiles  and  into  mammals  in  the  same  pursuit,  reptiles  gave 
birth  to  Pterodactyls  and  to  birds  so   that  this   hated   Arthropod  might    be 
followed  through  the  air ;  and  mammals  for  the  same  end  took  to  flight  in  the 
form  of  bats.     Birds  almost  more  than  any  other  class  have  nobly  devoted 
themselves  to  keeping  down  insects,  and  for  this  reason  among  many  others 
deserve  the  gratitude  and  support  of  humanity  to  whom  the  insect  tribe  is 
almost  more  repellent  and  more   hurtful  than  it  is  to  less  sensitive  beings. 
Mr.  H.  G.  Wells,  in  his  interesting  book  of  imaginative  foresight,  The  Time 
Machine,  has  hinted  at  the  awful  development  of  insects  which  might  ensue 
when  these  checks  to  their  expansion  were  removed.     When  one  reads  of  the 
many  windmills  at  which  philanthropy  wastes  its  time  in  tilting  one  longs  for 
some  Peter  the  Hermit  of  Science  to  arise  and  preach  a  crusade  against  insects. 
With  the  doubtful  exception  of  the  bee  (and  honey  nowadays  can  be  made 
artificially—is  made  artificially  whether  we  like  it  or  no)  and  the  Cochineal 
Aphis  (now  supplanted  by  aniline  dyes),  I  cannot  call  to  mind  one  insect  that 
is  of  any  benefit  to  man.     Even  when  the  perfect  insect  exhibits  bright  colours 
or  pleasing  patterns,  as  in  butterflies  or  beetles,  it  is  on  so  small  a  scale  that  the 
effect  almost  requires  to  be  looked  at  through  a  magnifying  glass,  and  even 
then  is  paltry  compared  to  the  effulgence  of  birds  or  the  beauty  of  certain 
mollusca,  and  at  any  rate  is  more  than  balanced  on  the  debtor  side  by  the 
mischief  wrought  in  the  larval  stages:    while  in  the  bugs  the  contemplation 
of  a  certain  garish  brightness  of  colour  or  quaintness  of  pattern  is  turned  into 
loathing  by  the  foetid  smell.     There  are,  it  is  true,  traitors  in  the  camp — insects 
that  try  to  be  on  our  side  by  devouring  other  insects,  but  if  with  the  disappear- 
ance of  the  rest  of  the  class  those  too  became  extinct  we  could  dismiss  them 
with  perfunctory  thanks,  remembering  how  in  the  Secondary  epoch  dragon-flies 
from  over  encouragement  grew  to  the  inconvenient  length  of  two  feet  and 
probably  presumed  on  their  size  and  strength  to  attack  the  small  mammals 
of  the  period. 

To  those  of  my  readers  who  are  not  acquainted  with  Tropical  countries  and 
their  insect  fauna  this  declamation  may  appear  strained  in  its  tenour,  but  a 
prolonged  residence  in  any  part  of  Africa  produces  in  one's  mind  a  sweeping 
hatred  of  the  insect  race,  a  hatred  not  unmixed  with  apprehension,  a  dread 
lest  by  some  unforeseen  turn  in  the  world's  affairs  the  existing  checks  might 
fail  to  keep  these  creatures  under,  and  that  some  awful  development  of  insects 
might  threaten  man's  very  existence  by  direct  or  indirect  attack — ^warfare  with 
his  body  or  the  attempted  destruction  of  his  food  supplies.  Is  this  hatred 
ill-founded  when  we  think  of  the  ravages  wrought  by  the  Phylloxera  on  our 


ZOOLOGY  367 

vines ;  by  the  tsetse-fly  on  the  horses  and  cattle  with  which  we  are  attempting 
to  open  up  Africa ;  by  the  jigger,  or  burrowing  flea,  which  may  make  whole 
nations  lame ;  by  the  mosquitoes  which  introduce  all  manner  of  diseases  into 
the  skin  and  render  existence  intolerable  at  all  times  in  the  low-lying  parts  of 
Africa,  and,  during  the  summer,  in  the  northern  regions  of  the  globe ;  by  the 
blue-bottle  fly  which  spreads  blood-poisoning;  the  "fish"  insects  which  destroy 
our  books  and  pictures  ;  the  maddening  sand-flies;  the  gad-flies  ;  the  bed-bugs  ; 
the  fleas ;  the  lice ;  the  termites  which  mine  our  houses ;  the  warrior  ants 
which  drive  us  out  of  them  ;  the  tiny  ants  which  get  into  our  sugar  and  jam  ; 
the  ephemerides  that  rise  from  the  river  at  night,  extinguish  an  uncovered  lamp,, 
fall  into  our  soup  and  permeate  it  with  a  filthy  taste ;  the  kungu  fly  of  Lake 
Nyasa  which  rises  in  choking  clouds  and  simulates  a  fog ;  locusts  that  ravage 
continents  and  produce  widespread  famine ;  beetles  that  bore  into  timber,  that 
destroy  hides,  whose  grubs  eat  away  the  roots  of  flowers  and  food  plants ; 
innumerable  moths  and  butterflies  whose  caterpillars  rival  the  locusts  in  their 
destruction  of  crops ;  bugs  which  suck  the  juices  of  valuable  shrubs ;  hornets 
which  inflict  an  almost  deadly  sting  on  no  provocation  ;  the  thousand  unnamed 
insect  pests  with  which  the  gardener  and  agriculturist  have  to  deal  under  the 
name  of  "  blight " ;  and  last  in  the  enumeration  but  not  least  in  its  horror,, 
the  cockroach,  that  foulest  of  all  insects,  the  very  sight  of  which  in  its  mad 
malicious  lustful  flight  on  some  hot  breathless  night  in  Africa  or  India  round 
one's  room  fills  one  with  more  abject  terror  and  shuddering  revulsion  than 
the  entry  of  any  wild  beast  of  our  own  class  or  human  enemy  or  visitor  from 
the  other  world?  Even  in  well-ordered  England  what  precautions  one  has 
to  take  against  the  encroachments  of  insects !  But  in  Africa  beside  this  conflict 
the  differences  of  opinion  with  slave  traders  and  cannibals,  the  contention  with 
lions  and  leopards  as  to  the  possession  of  domestic  animals  are  incidents  of 
a  cheery  rivalry  with  other  forms  of  flesh  and  blood  compared  to  this  nightmare 
struggle  with  a  class  that  knows  no  pity,  that  shares  with  us  no  feelings,  and 
owns  with  us  a  community  of  origin  so  remote  in  its  independent  development 
that  it  might  be  the  creation  of  another  planet.  It  is  surprising  to  my  thinking 
that  our  asylums  are  not  mainly  filled  with  entomologists  driven  to  dementia 
by  the  study  of  this  horrible  class ;  on  the  contrary,  however,  by  some  sur- 
prising reversal  of  effect  following  cause,  the  study  of  insects  appears  to 
produce  mild  spectacled  men  of  regular  habits,  dull  sobriety  and  calm  optimism, 
just  as  clergymen  are  usually  the  authorities  on  spiders,  and  men  of  thin-lipped 
virtue  affect  the  study  of  that  most  disproportionate  development  of  generative 
energy,  the  earthworm. 

This  exordium  is  intended  to  explain  why  in  my  brief  allusions  to  the 
insects  of  British  Central  Africa  I  should  speak  in  terms  of  almost  unmitigated 
blame. 

Butterflies  are  not  perhaps  so  striking  in  beauty  of  colouring  as  in  West 
Africa,  Madagascar,  Tropical  Asia,  and  South  America.  But  as  I  have  already 
said  the  beauty  even  of  the  most  gorgeous  butterflies  is,  in  my  opinion,  trivial 
compared  to  that  of  an  ordinary  bird. 

The  most  interesting  feature  in  some  of  them  is  mimicry  of  their  sur- 
roundings. One  butterfly  frequently  met  with  on  the  slopes  of  Zomba 
mountain  offers  the  most  perfect  resemblance  to  a  large  green  leaf  when  its 
wings  are  closed.  The  two  pairs  of  folded  wings  meet  together  almost  without 
a  break  in  the  line  of  contour,  and  the  end  of  the  slightly  prolonged  '*  tail " 
to  the  lower   wings   is   apposed   to   the   branch,  thus   imitating  the   stalk  of 


368  BRITISH   CENTRAL   AFRICA 

the  leaf.  The  insect's  legs  are  long  and  it  has  a  way  of  tucking  them  up 
close  to  the  body  and  contour  of  the  wings.  The  colour  of  the  outer  side 
of  the  wings  is  dull  green,  and  a  dark  green  stripe  runs  right  down  the  middle 
to  represent  the  midrib  of  the  leaf  I  am  fairly  inured  to  surprises  in  Nature 
but  I  have  been  repeatedly  taken  in  by  these  leaf  butterflies,  and  to  my 
amazement  have  seen  what  appeared  to  be  the  unmistakable  leaves  of  a  tree  or 
bush  taking  to  flight  and  then  settling  again,  so  that  in  a  minute  the  eye  failed 
to  distinguish  between  the  real  and  the  false  leaf.  Some  of  the  butterflies  of  the 
genus  Papilio  are  handsome  but  they  are  widespread  throughout  Africa  from 
the  west  and  the  north  to  Natal.  There  are  also  large  smalt-blue  "skippers" 
which  are  very  rich  in  colouring.  It  is  remarkable  that  the  clouded  yellow  and 
other  species  of  butterflies  more  associated  in  their  distribution  with  Europe 
should  be  met  with  on  our  high  mountains.  The  names  of  these  will  be  found 
in  the  appendix. 

The  larvae  of  a  small  moth  named  Tinea  vastella  burrow  into  the  horns 
of  dead  animals,  horns,  for  instance,  that  are  being  collected  as  sp>ecimens. 
Soon  a  number  of  grey  cocoons  begin  to  protrude  from  the  horn  as  though 
it  were  budding  in  all  directions.  When  these  are  knocked  off  a  round  hole 
remains  so  that  the  horn  is  soon  quite  spoiled  in  appearance. 

It  might  be  mentioned  that  the  caterpillars  of  certain  large  moths  are  very 
striking  objects.  They  are  nearly  if  not  quite  six  inches  long  and  covered  with 
a  flame-coloured  plush  of  long  pile.  If  touched,  however,  the  extremely  fine 
silky  hairs  will  sting  the  hand  and  cause  a  rash.  The  caterpillars  of  other 
moUis  are  vicious  creatures  that  eject  a  stinging  liquid  from  their  mouths. 

A  large  carnivorous  beetle  with  powerful  nippers  of  the  genus  Tefflus  is 
remarkable  for  its  beautiful  iridescent-violet  tint,  but  it  can  take  a  piece 
out  of  the  finger  if  incautiously  handled.  Such  other  beetles  as  do  not  attempt 
to  get  into  one's  eyes  or  drill  holes  in  one's  specimens  of  horns,  or  bore  through 
one's  rafters  and  drop  the  sawdust  on  the  furniture  below,  or  destroy  the 
European  flowers  in  one's  garden,  or  put  out  the  lamp  at  night,  or  creep 
into  one's  hair  or  rustle  between  one's  papers,  or  eat  and  befoul  one's  supplies 
of  grain,  or  crawl  into  one's  ear,  ought  I  suppose  to  be  mentioned  for  their 
minute  beauties  or  extravagant  development  of  horns  or  wing-cases,  but  I  have 
not  the  heart  to  do  so. 

The  common  flea  is  fortunately  not  truly  indigenous,  that  is  to  say,  it  is  not 
found  in  the  bush  or  in  many  unsophisticated  native  villages  ;  it  is  chiefly  con- 
fined to  the  European  settlements  and  to  the  dwellings  of  Arabs  or  semi-civilised 
natives :  though  I  cannot  say  if  it  is  wholly  absent  from  any  native  village. 

The  burrowing  flea  {Sarcopsyllus  penetrans)  is  quite  a  new  arrival  in  this 
country.  It  is  a  native  of  South  America  and  the  West  Indies  where  it  is 
usually  known  as  the  "chigo"  or  "jigger,"  and  as  such  is  supposed  to  be  the 
origin  of  the  sailors'  oath — "Well,  I'm  jiggered!"  In  the  earlier  "fifties"  a 
ship  from  Brazil  landed  sand  ballast  at  Ambriz  on  the  West  Coast  of  Africa 
and  thus  introduced  the  jigger  into  the  soil.  The  animal  slowly  spread  through 
the  sandier  regions  of  Angola  and  along  the  West  African  Coast  towards  the 
Congo  and  Sierra  Leone.  At  first  it  made  its  way  up  the  Congo  slowly,  but 
Stanley's  expedition  and  the  spread  of  civilisation ,  over  the  Congo  Free  State 
carried  the  jigger  far  and  wide.  When  I  first  visited  the  Congo  the  burrowing  flea 
had  scarcely  got  further  up  the  river  than  Bolobo.  Soon  afterwards  it  reached 
the  Stanley  Falls  and  thence  made  its  way  to  Tanganyika  in  the  Arab  caravans. 
From  Tanganyika  it  gradually  spread  southwards  to  Lake  Nyasa  and  was  first 


ZOOLOGY  369 

heard  of  at  Karonga  about  1891.  It  reached  South  Nyasa  the  following  year 
and  in  1894  became  a  great  pest  at  Zomba  and  throughout  the  Shire  Highlands, 
finally  reaching  Chinde  on  the  sea  coast  in  1895.  Fortunately  it  is  an  insect 
which  apparently  only  thrives  on  sandy  soils  and  therefore  in  moist  parts  of 
British  Central  Africa  it  is  already  commencing  to  disappear.  At  first  it  caused 
terrible  sufferings  amongst  our  naked-footed  soldiers,  policemen  and  postmen, 
many  of  whom  became  lame  by  its  bites.  It  caused  the  Administration  to  go 
to  great  expense  in  providing  boots  for  all  these  people.  Gradually,  however, 
the  natives  are  getting  used  to  its  attacks  as  they  are  in  West  Africa  and  in  the 
West  Indies,  and  by  care  and  constant  attention  to  the  feet  are  able  to  keep  it  at 
bay.  The  jigger  is  a  very  minute  flea  only  just  visible.  The  female  creeps 
under  the  skin,  preferring  if  possible  those  parts  where  there  is  a  slight  pressure, 
such  as  between  the  toes  or  fingers.  The  foot,  however,  is  that  portion  of  the 
human  frame  which  it  most  usually  attacks.  Having  burrowed  under  the 
surface  of  the  skin  the  insect  proceeds  to  lay  a  large  number  of  eggs  which, 
together  with  itself,  are  enveloped  in  a  white  sac.  After  laying  the  eggs  the 
mother  dies,  the  young  ones  hatch  out  and  proceed  to  devour  all  the  surround- 
ing tissue,  burrowing  in  all  directions  until  at  last  the  neglected  toe  or  other 
portion  of  the  foot  becomes  honeycombed.  In  extreme  cases  mortification  may 
set  in  and  the  whole  foot  be  lost  even  if  the  mischief  spread  no  farther.  But 
such  a  case  as  this  could  only  occur  when  the  insect  first  makes  its  appearance 
in  a  new  country  and  its  advances  are  quite  uninterrupted  and  neglected.  If  the 
jigger  be  removed  within  a  few  days  after  entry  the  removal  is  very  easy  and 
relatively  painless,  and  the  evil  consequences  are  nil.  Still  Europeans  who  are 
obliged  to  live  in  jigger-haunted  localities  should  be  careful  to  have  their  feet 
examined  once  a  day  by  a  native  servant.  The  natives  are  very  sharp  eyed 
and  on  a  white  skin  it  is  easy  to  see  the  jigger  burrowing  like  a  little  blue  point 
under  the  surface.  A  little  carbolic  oil  dropped  into  the  hole  from  which  the 
burrowing  flea  has  been  extracted  will  allay  the  irritation  which  is  caused  by 
some  liquid  the  animal  exudes,  and  will  effectively  kill  any  eggs  that  may  have 
escaped  from  the  sac.  Fortunately  the  skin  surrounding  the  sac  is  tough  and  a 
skilful  operator  easily  removes  it  unbroken.  The  jigger  attacks  not  only  human 
beings  but  monkeys,  dogs,  fowls  and  turkeys. 

In  like  manner  the  bed-bug,  which  is  a  hideous  pest  in  any  village  that  has 
been  occupied  by  Arabs  or  coastmen,  is  usually  absent  from  those  native 
dwellings  inhabited  by  naked  people  whose  habits  are  cleanly  and  whose  scanty 
clothing  affords  no  harbourage  for  this  pest.  The  indigenous  bugs  are  many 
but  confine  their  attacks  to  plants,  the  juices  of  which  they  suck.  Many  of 
these  bugs  are  brightly,  even  handsomely  coloured,  but  all  of  them  possess  the 
same  faculty  of  emitting  (as  a  means  of  protection)  the  same  horrible  smell — 
a  smell  none  the  less  disgusting  from  its  near  approach  to  being  aromatic. 

The  locust  which  so  much  afflicted  British  Central  Africa  during  the  years 
1893,  1894  and  1895  was  apparently  the  red  locust  of  North  Africa,^  and  not 
any  indigenous  or  South  African  variety.'-^  This  locust  plague  from  all  accounts 
began  in  the  Egyptian  Sudan  almost  simultaneously  with  the  rinderpest,  and, 
spreading  southwards,  gradually  reached  British  Central  Africa,  passing  on 
from  there  to  South  Africa,  where  it  caused  very  serious  losses.     It  would  seem 

'  Pachytylus  migrator ioides  ? 

^  Though  of  course  there  are  several  species  of  Pachytylm  in  South  Africa ;  but  in  the  case  of  the 
locust  plague  of  1893-95,  the  locusts  came  down  in  swanns  from  the  far  north,  from  Galaland  and  the 
Egyptian  Sudan,  whence  they  also  spread  westward  to  Sierra  Leone.  The  locusts  passed  on  steadily 
in  a  southerly  direction,  and  have  recently  ravaged  Bechuanaland  and  Natal. 

24 


370  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

as  though  these  locust  plagues  were  not  wholly  unknown  in  the  south-central 
part  of  the  continent,  though  fortunately  they  are  only  occasional  occurrences, 
and  locusts  of  the  rapidly-multiplying  rapacious  kind  do  not  seem  to  have 
a  permanent  home  north  of  the  Zambezi,  as  they  do  in  North  and  South  Africa, 
no  doubt  because  the  climate  as  a  rule  is  too  moist  for  their  constitutions.  The 
terrific  downpour  of  rain  during  the  wet  season  kills  the  mature  insect  and 
washes  its  eggs  away.  Undoubtedly  much  of  the  damage  which  the  locusts 
did  on  their  first  arrival  was  due  to  laziness  on  the  part  of  Europeans  and 
natives  who  either  could  not,  or  would  not,  bother  themselves  with  adopting 
extraordinary  means  for  scaring  the  insects  from  the  crops.  Locusts  strongly 
dislike  noise  and  tremors  of  the  atmosphere.  We  found  at  Zomba  that  an 
almost  unfailing  way  to  get  rid  of  them  when  they  descended  in  countless 
thousands  on  our  gardens  was  to  turn  out  large  numbers  of  men  beating  drums 
and  tin  pans,  clapping  hands  and  shouting.  The  locusts  then  refrained  from 
settling  and  passed  on  to  less  energetic  neighbours. 

In  extreme  cases  we  fired  off,  with  much  effect,  charges  of  dynamite.  This 
never  failed  to  clear  us  of  locusts.  Birds,  of  course,  were  our  chief  allies 
in  combating  this  enemy.  Not  only  ordinary  insect-eating  birds  but  kites, 
hawks,  and  ravens  j  and  this  fact  might  be  borne  in  mind  by  the  European 
planter  who  is  a  little  too  apt  to  shoot  these  predatory  birds  which  are  in  fact 
most  useful  in  keeping  down  the  locust  tribe.  The  most  effective  locust  killers 
are  the  crowned  cranes  already  described,  and  for  this  purpose  alone  they  ought 
to  be  domesticated  and  bred  in  large  numbers  both  here  and  in  South  Africa. 

Another  great  pest  is  the  white  ant,  or  termite,  which  is  not  an  ant  at  all  but 
a  Neuropterous  insect  distantly  related  to  the  cockroach  group.  The  large,  more 
or  less  conically  shaped  ant-hills  of  these  termites  are  familiar  features  all  over 
the  country.^  The  white  ant  here  is  probably  represented  by  the  species  Termes 
mossambicus  and  T.  bellicosus  and  by  the  genus  Hodotermes,  No  termites  as  a 
rule  are  found  above  an  altitude  of  4000  feet ;  consequently  on  the  colder 
plateaux  of  British  Central  Africa  these  and  many  other  pests  disappear.  It  is 
also  not  ver}'  fond  of  a  sandy  soil  and  is  absent  in  rocky  country,  preferring  the 
red  or  whitish  kaolin  clay.  In  spite  of  its  persistency  it  is  possible  to  drive  this 
insect  away  as  I  have  repeatedly  proved.^  All  ant-hills  should  be  demolished 
and  the  ground  below  them  dug  up  to  about  six  feet  in  order  to  discover  and 
destroy  all  the  queens,  as  if  one  queen  is  left  the  community  will  simply  rebuild, 
whereas  if  all  the  queens  are  destroyed  they  appear  to  wander  aimlessly  to  their 
destruction.  The  white  ants  die  if  exposed  to  the  light  of  the  sun.  They  are 
very  sensitive  to  light  and  only  work  in  the  daytime  in  earth  tunnels  which  they 
build.  It  is  these  tunnels  of  red  clay,  which  are  sometimes  made  for  many  feet 
along  the  trunk  of  a  tree  until  a  dead  branch  is  attained,  which  the  ants  are  bent 
on  devouring,  that  caused  Professor  Drummond  in  his  work  on  Tropical  Africa 

^  Other  Termites,  however,  build  nests  shaped  exactly  like  a  mushroom,  and  not  more  than  two  feet 
high,  mounted  on  a  tube-like  stem. 

*  Where  the  white  ant  is  already  well  established  in  the  foundation  of  a  house,  after  every  effort  has 
been  made  to  get  rid  of  its  nests  from  under  the  foundation  without  success,  it  can  sometimes  be  induced 
to  quit  the  building  by  the  constant  application  of  petroleum  to  the  walls,  as,  like  so  many  other  insects,  it 
detests  the  smell  or  taste  of  mineral  oil.  The  first  appearance  of  white  ants  in  the  plaster  will  be  long 
clay  tunnels  appearing  on  the  surface  of  the  wall.  These  should  be  gently  knocked  off  and  there  will  then 
remain  a  number  of  round  holes  out  of  which  the  white  ants  have  come.  These  should  be  closed  with  a 
mixture  of  lime  and  petroleum  and  if  this  is  done  repeatedly  the  white  ants  will  leave  the  place,  especially 
if  all  the  approaches  to  the  wall  from  the  floor  of  the  room  are  further  smeared  with  petroleum.  White 
ants  are  not  fond  of  sharing  a  building  with  human  beings,  or  of  the  society  of  man,  as  they  dislike  the 
jarring  sounds  and  the  tremor  caused  by  much  traffic.  There  is  no  doubt  they  can  be  got  rid  of  to  a  great 
extent  in  human  settlements. 


ZOOLOGY 


371 


to  compare  the  white  ant  to  the  earthworm  in  the  creation  of  vegetable  soil. 
Undoubtedly  timber  which  falls  to  the  ground  is  more  rapidly  reduced  to  soil  by 
the  thick  covering  of  red  clay  with  which  it  is  coated  by  the  termites.  An 
interesting  and  lucid  description  of  the  termite  economy  will  be  found  in  the 
newly  published  volume  on  insects  of  the  Cambridge  Natural  History,  I  need 
only  remind  my  readers  that  there  is  a  parallel  resemblance  between  the  social 
workings  of  the  termites  and  that  of  bees  and  ants  in  that  the  community  is 
divided  into  classes  of  breeding  males  and  females,  workers  and  soldiers.  The 
two  latter  sections  appear  to  be  females  with  the  sexual  organs  undeveloped. 
The  mature  males  and  females  assume  wings  and  issue  forth  from  the  nest  at 
the  beginning  of  the  rainy  season  in  immense  numbers,  mostly  meeting  with  a 
well-deserved  fate  from  such  mammals 
and  birds  as  devote  themselves  to  the 
destruction  of  these  insects.^ 

They  are  usually  largely  eaten  by 
the  natives  who  collect  them  as  follows : 
They  build  grass  sheds  over  the  ant- 
hills just  before  the  rainy  season,  and 
as  the  winged  ants  issue  in  enormous 
swarms  from  the  small  holes  at  the 
base  of  the  ant-hill  they  fly  straight  up 
till  they  come  against  the  grass  roof, 
and  fall  down  into  pots  set  into  the 
ground  with  opening  mouths  on  a  level 
with  the  surface.  As  the  pots  are  filled 
they  are  covered  with  leaves.  The  ants 
are  afterwards  roasted,  wings  and  all, 
dried  in  the  sun  and  then  pounded  in  a 
mortar  and  eaten  as  a  kind  of  relish. 
If  the  winged  ant  is  left  to  itself  it  soon 
jerks  off  the  wings,  of  which  it  appar- 
ently only  avails  itself  to  fly  for  a  short 
distance  from  the  mother  nest.  At  this 
season  of  the  year  the  escaped  termites 
generally  ascertain  where  a  dinner  party 
is  being  given  and  fly  to  that  house,  entering  it  by  any  crevice,  and  making 
straight  for  the  lighted  table,  where  they  proceed  to  cast  off*  their  wings  into 
the  soup  and  on  all  the  other  viands,  adding  one  more  to  these  many  grievances, 
the  total  sum  of  which  will  no  doubt  lead  me  to  devote  the  remainder  of  my 
existence  to  the  extirpation  of  the  hated  class  of  insects. 

The  Orthoptera  are  represented  by  the  cockroaches,  the  earwigs,  the  mantises, 
the  stick-insects,  the  locusts  and  crickets. 

I  have  already  touched  briefly  on  the  subject  of  cockroaches.  There  are 
several  native  species  which  frequent  the  village  dirt-heaps,  or  are  found  in  the 
forest,  and  one  or  two  of  these  exhibit  a  certain  amount  of  comeliness.  The 
ubiquitous  cockroach  of  Tropical  civilisation  is  present  in  all  large  settlements, 
but  it  is  not  a  true  native  of  the  country  and  is  never  found  in  the  wilderness. 

^  So  important  a  factor  is  the  termite  in  the  economy  of  tropical  nature  that  it  has  probably  caused 
the  evolution  of  certain  special  types  of  birds  and  mammals.  Amongst  the  former  may  be  mentioned  the 
Orycteropusy  or  Ant-bear  of  South  Africa  and  the  Manis  or  Pangolin  of  Africa  and  India.  These  two  types 
of  mammals  live  almost  exclusively  on  white  ants. 


A  TERMITE  ANT-HILL 


372 


BRITISH   CENTRAL   AFRICA 


Scrupulous  cleanliness  and  the  absence  of  dark  holes  and  comers  in  which  these 
creatures  may  breed  generally  lead  to  its  being  kept  under  in  houses  and  on 
steamers.  A  cockroachy  steamer  is  without  excuse  and  indicates  a  careless 
and  dirty  captain. 

The  mantises,  or  praying  insects,  offer  a  number  of  species,  some  of  them 
very  fantastic,  others  almost  beautiful  in  their  green  colouring  with  large  black 
and  pink  ocelli  on  the  hinder  pair  of  wings  showing  very  plainly  when  the 
wings  are  folded.  It  is  curious  how  the  female  mantis  has  taken  to  the  conifers 
recently  introduced  into  the  country,  as  a  tree  in  which  to  weave  her  egg-case. 


A   STICK    INSECT 


This  is  a  heart-shaped,,  grey  papery  structure  from  which  the  young  escape 
when  hatched. 

An  excellent  idea  of  the  weapons  with  which  this  horrible  insect  is  endowed 
may  be  obtained  from  an  article  on  the  mantises  in  the  Cambridge  Natural 
History}  As  will  be  seen  the  front  pair  of  legs  is  greatly  developed  and  the 
last  two  segments  of  the  limb  are  furnished  with  teeth  on  the  inner  side.  The 
last  joint,  or  tibia,  closes  on  the  penultimate  segment  or  femur,  much  as  the 
blade  of  a  penknife  springs  back  on  its  hinge  into  the  case,  thus  catching 
between  the  sharp  teeth  of  tibia  and  femur  any  object  which  the  mantis  may 
wish  to  grasp.     The  insect  always  stands  on  the  other  four  legs  with  these  front 

^  Insects,  part  i. 


ZOOLOGY 


373 


legs  folded  up  alongside  its  immensely  elongated  pro-thorax,  the  body  gently 
swaying  to  and  fro.  When  an  insect  approaches  and  is  within  reach,  the  mantis 
darts  its  fore  limbs  forwards  and  catches  the  creature  between  tibia  and  femur. 
It  then  advances  the  prey  to  the  mandibles  of  its  mouth  and  tears  it  away 
again,  thus  biting  off  portions.  It  is  a  nasty  insect  to  lay  hold  of  as  it  can  give 
one's  .fingers  a  very  sharp  prick  with  the  teeth  of  its  huge  fore  limbs.  No  one 
ordinarily  would  have  a  desire  to  meddle  with  the  mantis,  but  the  mantis 
unfortunately  will  not  leave  you  alone  at  night.  Attracted  by  the  light  of  your 
lamp  it  flies  in  circles  around  it  and  you,  generally  ending  by  settling  on  your 
hair  or  hand,  looking  at  you  with  its  huge  green  eyes  and  ready  at  any  offensive 
movement  on  your  part  to  tweak  your  ear  or  your  finger.     Fortunately  the 


A  LOCUSTID  INSECT 
(Probably  Dolicho/hda) 


/ 


ferocity  of  the  mantis  (though 
it  is  said  by  some  naturalists 
to  be  able  to  kill  small  birds) 
is  mainly  directed  against  its 
own  hateful  class,  and  it  kills 
enormous  numbers  of  insects, 
many  more  than  it  can  eat ; 
being  in  this  respect  the 
leopard  of  the  insect  race, 
killing  for  love  of  slaughter. 
The  stick-insects  {Phas- 
midcB)  are  very  abundant 
in  the  long  grass,  and  some 
of  them  imitate  the  yellow 
stems  and  grey  leaflets  of 
the  sun-dried  herbage  with 
the  most  marvellous  accuracy. 
Others  simulate  small  dead  branches  with  off- shoots  and  thorns,  the  main 
branch  being  mottled  with  spots  like  lichen.  This  tribe  produces  the  largest 
insects  of  the  present  day,  some  of  the  Phasmidce  attaining  to  a  length  of 
eighteen  inches.  It  is  not  uncommon  to  meet  with  them  in  British  Central 
Africa  a  foot  long.  I  give  an  illustration  (page  372)  of  one  obtained  at  Zomba. 
This  is  probably  a  species  of  Palophus,  and  measured  nine  inches  in  length. 

Locusts  are  represented  by  many  species  some  of  which  are  brightly 
coloured  red — black  and  yellow,  or  blue  and  yellow.  Others  are  a  beautiful 
grass-green.^  The  indigenous  grasshopper  does  not  do  an  extravagant  amount 
of  harm.  It  is  as  I  have  already  stated  a  red  species  of  locust  (probably 
Pachytylus  migratorioides)  from  the  north  which  has  recently  committed  such 
ravages  and  has  passed  on  in  swarms  to  the  south. 

^  LocusticUe,  Some  of  the  Locusiida  have  enormously  long  antenjix.  I  give  an  illustration  of  one 
drawn  from  life  in  Central  Africa.  Others  of  these  Loctisttdtc  imitate  leaves  in  a  wonderful  manner ; 
others  again  with  long  green  bodies  have  large  wings  of  vivid  rose-pink,  the  wing  cases,  however,  being 
green  so  that  the  creature  is  only  visible  to  the  eye  amongst  the  grass  when  it  takes  to  flight. 


374  BRITISH   CENTRAL  AFRICA 

The  crickets  are  represented  by  several  most  repulsive  forms.  What  can  be 
more  frightful  than  the  mole  cricket?  Such  an  animal  as  this  is  a  blot  on 
creation.  Some  of  the  Gryllidce  are  extremely  predaceous  and  carnivorous.  I 
have  noticed  one,  especially,  which  seems  to  frequent  the  native  huts,  lodging 
generally  in  the  thatched  roof  When  I  have  been  writing  at  my  table  by  the 
light  of  a  lamp  and  some  fat,  fluffy,  stupid  moth  singed  and  stupefied  with  the 
oil  is  gyrating  on  the  table,  the  predatory  Gryllus  will  pounce  on  it  from  the 
roof  and  literally  tear  it  to  pieces  before  one's  eyes. 

Large  carpenter  bees  with  black  bodies  and  violet  wings,  and  apparently  the 
ordinary  honey  bee  {Apis)  are  common.  I  imagine  the  honey  bee  of  Central 
Africa  to  belong  to  the  genus  Apis  because  it  is  possessed  of  a  sting  which 
is  not  the  case,  I  believe,  amongst  some  of  the  honey  bees  of  other  genera 
found  usually  in  tropical  climates.  These  wild  bees  are  present  in  almost 
all  the  forested  regions  and  make  delicious  honey  and  excellent  wax.  Wax 
indeed  is  one  of  the  articles  of  export  from  British  Central  Africa,  though  the 
natives  do  not  pay  as  much  heed  to  collecting  it  as  they  might  These  honey 
bees  can  be  a  great  nuisance,  sometimes,  as  they  are  very  ill-tempered.  In 
my  house  at  Zomba  they  were  continually  trying  to  build  hives  in  the  chimneys 
and  at  times  would  swarm  there  in  numbers,  becoming  so  angry  at  being 
smoked  out  that  they  would  attack  and  sting  all  who  came  near  them.  On  one 
occasion  when  travelling  along  the  Upper  Shire  a  few  of  my  porters  and  myself 
stopped  to  rest  under  a  shady  tree.  We  were  at  once  attacked  by  a  swarm 
of  bees  who  stung  us  violently  and  whom  we  could  only  get  rid  of  after  running 
for  nearly  a  quarter  of  a  mile  through  the  dense  grass.  I  received  thirteen 
stings  on  the  head  and  neck.  These  being  at  once  extracted  and  the  places 
rubbed  with  extract  of  witch-hazel,  I  felt  no  after  ill  effects. 

The  female  of  an  ugly  creature  possibly  belonging  to  the  genus  Scotia 
makes  its  appearance  during  the  rainy  season  in  houses,  attracted  by  the  light 
It  has  an  extremely  long  flexible  body,  the  end  of  which  is  armed  with  a 
formidable  sting.  The  mason  wasp  is  a  familiar  sight  It  has  dark  indigo-blue 
wings,  yellow  abdomen  and  black  and  orange  legs.  This  wasp  stings  and 
benumbs  caterpillars  and  spiders,  then  packs  them  into  a  mud  cell  which  it 
has  previously  built  on  the  wall  of  a  house  or  in  some  such  appropriate  shelter. 
Having  deposited  an  egg  in  the  cell  together  with  the  grub  it  seals  it  up  with 
more  mud  and  continues  to  build  other  cells  until  quite  a  large  excrescence 
of  red  mud  is  gathered  together.  As  the  young  grubs  hatch  so  they  gradually 
consume  the  stupefied  but  not  dead  victim.  They  then  push  their  way  out 
through  the  top  of  the  cell  and  emerge  as  the  perfect  insect.  It  is  said  that  the 
male  of  this  species  is  very  much  smaller  than  the  female  and  there  is  some 
doubt  as  to  its  identity. 

The  mason  wasp  is  rather  a  nuisance,  however  much  good  it  may  do  by 
destroying  caterpillars,  as  it  invades  all  one's  premises  whenever  a  door  or 
window  is  open  and  is  perpetually  building  a  nest  on  the  back  of  books  or 
on  nicely-coloured  walls,  on  picture  frames,  or  even  inside  the  piano  if  it  can 
get  there.  It  is  also  a  great  fidget,  buzzing  round  and  round  one's  head  in 
circling  flights ;  in  fact  when  a  mason  wasp  has  got  into  the  room  I  have  to  call 
servants  to  catch  it  or  drive  it  out  before  I  can  resume  my  work.  Nevertheless 
they  are  good-tempered  insects  not  readily  induced  to  sting,  whereas  the  pale 
green-grey  Belonogaster  wasps,  which  build  their  papery  nests  of  very  long 
tubes  on  the  roof  of  one's  dwelling,  are  easily  roused  to  hostility  and  sting 
fearfully.     These  are  the  insects  which  are  mentioned  by  so  many  European 


ZOOLOGY  375 

travellers  as  "hornets."  I  question  whether  any  hornet  is  found  in  Central 
Africa,  but  the  hornet  is,  after  all,  only  one  amongst  many  wasps. 

Regarding  ants:  there  are  the  tiny  ones  which  in  the  more  low-lying 
districts  infest  the  larder  and  crawl  into  the  sugar ;  there  are  the  red  tree  ants 
that  bite  venomously ;  and  there  is  a  black  species  living  in  marshy  localities 
which  has  formidable  mandibles  and  whose  puncture  of  the  skin  is  like  a 
nip  of  red-hot  iron.  This  black  ant  is  said  to  sally  out  at  times  to  attack  the 
termites.  It  is  often  met  marching  in  armies  of  thousands  which  make  a 
perceptible  rustling  as  they  cross  a  road  by  a  track  which  they  have  actually 
worn  through  the  soil.  The  workers  pass  along  in  the  middle  whilst  the  large- 
jawed  soldiers  are  thickly  clustered  on  either  side.  If  the  progress  of  this 
army  should  be  arrested  the  soldiers  scour  the  soil  seeking  for  the  enemy,  and 
if  the  human  observer  remained  long  in  the  vicinity  these  dauntless  insects 
would  have  climbed  up  his  legs  and  have  fixed  their  jaws  into  his  flesh  with 
such  tenacity  that  the  head  is  often  left  in  the  wound  when  the  body  is  pulled 
off.  At  times  these  warrior  ants  will  enter  a  dwelling  and  force  the  human 
inhabitants  to  evacuate.  In  their  passage  through  the  house  they  destroy  all 
cockroaches  and  other  insects  and  even  rats,  so  that  sometimes  their  visit  is 
not  an  unmixed  curse.  I  believe  this  is  the  same  species  of  ant  (or  a  nearly 
allied  one)  as  that  in  West  Africa  whose  savage  propensities  are  utilised  by 
negroes  for  a  hideous  torture.  When  it  is  wished  that  a  person — generally  a 
woman — should  die  by  inches,  he  or  she  is  tied  down  on  the  ground  by  the 
home  of  these  warrior  ants.  The  ants  are  then  thoroughly  disturbed  and 
enraged  and  left  to  wreak  their  vengeance  on  the  unhappy  human  being  at 
their  mercy,  whom  in  time  they  will  not  only  kill,  but  whose  flesh  they  will 
devour,  leaving  the  bones  picked  clean.^ 

Another  ant  remarkable  for  disagreeable  qualities  is  the  Ponera,  a  rather 
large-sized  insect  for  this  family,  perhaps  three-quarters  of  an  inch  long  with 
the  abdomen  striped  in  black  and  white.  The  Ponera  exudes  the  most 
offensive  odour,  something  like  the  smell  of  the  little  European  ant  known 
as  the  Pismire,  only  ten  times  stronger.  This  stench  becomes  infinitely  worse 
if  an  insect  is  killed  when  it  will  sometimes  pervade  the  whole  house.  Persons 
who  have  not  actually  witnessed  this  are  not  able  to  conceive  that  such  a 
terrible  foetor  can  proceed  from  the  body  of  so  small  an  insect.  I  remember 
Mr.  Sharpe  complaining  to  me  once  that  there  was  a  bad  smell  like  drains 
in  the  newly  built  Vice-consulate  at  Blantyre,  though  we  both  agreed  that 
such  was  impossible  because  there  were  no  drains.  As  soon  as  I  sniffed  the 
scent,  however,  I  felt  sure  it  was  the  Ponera  ant  and  on  taking  up  the  matting 
of  the  ground  floor  one  of  these  insects  was  discovered  crushed  underneath, 
and  once  it  was  removed  the  smell  completely  disappeared. 

The  Order  Diptera  shall  conclude  my  survey  of  the  insects.  Amongst  other 
pests  it  produces  at  least  three  species  of  gnats  (mosquitoes) ;  midges — otherwise 
called  "  sand-flies  "  ;  enormous  horse-flies  nearly  an  inch  in  length  ;  bluebottles  ; 
house-flies  ;  gad-flies  ;  and  the  celebrated  tsetse.  There  is  also  a  fly  not  as  yet 
identified  which  with  its  ovipositor  probes  the  skin  of  human  beings  even  through 
clothing,  especially  on  the  legs  or  back,  and  inserts  an  ^%%,  This  t%^  develops 
into  a  small  grub  which  is  the  cause  of  a  very  painful  boil  from  which  it  event- 
ually emerges. 

Of  the  mosquitoes  there  are,  as  I  have  said,  apparently  three  kinds — one 

^  There  was  a  case  on  the  Niger  in  the  early  ** eighties"  tried  by  Consul  Hewett,  wherein  a  negro 
missionary  and  his  wife  were  convicted  of  thus  doing  to  death  a  native  girl  who  had  offended  them. 


376 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


large  and  brown  in  colour  found  in  the  thick  grass  near  to  rivers  or  lakes  in  a 
low-lying  country.  This  creature  is  called  by  the  Portuguese  "  Mosquito  manso," 
or  "  the  tame  mosquito,"  it  being  too  sluggish  to  elude  capture,  especially  when 
gorged  with  blood.  This,  in  my  opinion,  almost  adds  to  the  original  injury  of 
its  puncture  because  the  disagreeable  insect  allows  itself  to  be  smashed,  leaving 
a  smear  of  blood.  Then  there  is  the  ordinary  grey  mosquito  (whose  bite  is  the 
most  venomous),  a  tiny  little  black  mosquito,  and  a  species  of  gnat  found  close 
to  rivers,  which  is  barred  grey  and  white,  and  has  plume-like  antennse.  For- 
tunately in  the  Shire  Highlands  and  on  all  lands  well  above  3000  feet — and 
most  of  the  superfices  of  British  Central  Africa  lies  above  this  altitude — the 
mosquito  is  almost  entirely  absent.  This  is  of  itself  an  enormous  gain  to  com-: 
fort  in  living.  On  the  River  Shire,  on  some  (but  not  all)  parts  of  the  coast 
lands  of  Lake  Nyasa  and  around  the  south  end  of  Tanganyika,  mosquitoes  are 
bad,  though  here  again  their  presence  depends  a  good  deal  on  the  condition  of 
the  adjacent  country.  If  this  is  one  mass  of  unkempt  vegetation,  especially 
lush  grass,  then  mosquitoes  will  swarm ;  but  as  soon  as  the  land  is  cleared  and 
cultivated  and  the  rank  bush  is  kept  under  the  mosquitoes  lessen  in  numbers 
and  even  in  some  cases  disappear.  When  we  first  occupied  the  ground  on 
which  Fort  Johnston  stands  at  the  south  end  of  Lake  Nyasa,  mosquitoes  made 
life  almost  impossible,  especially  in  the  evening.  At  this  time  if  anyone  walked 
out  in  a  few  minutes  his  neck  was  covered  with  blood  and  black  with 
mosquitoes.  Dinner  was  only  possible  in  the  midst  of  thick  smoke  frorh 
burning  weeds.  Yet  nowadays  mosquitoes  in  this  same  place  are  a  negligeable 
quantity.  At  some  seasons  of  the  year  they  disappear  altogether  and  at  other 
times  are  met  with  in  such  small  numbers  that  their  presence  is  not  much 
remarked.  Undoubtedly  the  mosquito  is  a  source  of  ill-health  in  :  Africa. 
Apart  from  the  maddening  irritation  caused  by  its  bites  it  would  appear  to 
introduce  some  unwholesome  substance,  and  when  the  person  bitten  is  in  a  poor 
state  of  health  the  mosquito-bites  turn  to  ulcers  which  are  difficult  to  heal  until 
the  sufferer  is  removed  to  a  healthy  locality.  As  a  rule  one  receives  fewer 
mosquito-bites  in  a  native  hut  than  in  a  tent  because  they  strongly  dislike  the 
smoke  of  the  wood  fires,  which  are  burned  in  every  native  dwelling. 

Midges  are  very  troublesome  in  certain  places,  especially  localities  near  the 
river.  They  are  even  found  high  up  on  the  hillsides.  During  the  rainy  season 
at  Zomba  it  is  difficult  to  sit  out  of  doors  and  paint  or  read  without  having 
an  attendant  present  with  a  fan  to  keep  the  midges  away  or  without  burning 
incense  (as  I  used  to  do),  the  fumes  of  which  drive  them  away.^ 

Although  the  sand-fly  is  so  minute  as  to  be  not  much  larger  than  a  flea  its 
bite  raises  a  large  white  weal  and  is  more  painful  than  that  of  the  mosquito. 

The  horse  or  "hippo"  fly  is  a  handsome  insect  of  bronze-green  and  chestnut- 
brown  and  is  of  large  size.  It  is  not  much  of  a  pest  in  the  highlands  but 
swarms  along  the  banks  of  all  large  rivers.  It  is  easily  killed  by  a  smart  blow 
when  it  settles  and  is  about  to  probe  with  its  sharp  proboscis.  If  it  succeeds 
in  piercing  the  skin  it  raises  a  large  fed  lump  which  is  irritable  and  sore  for 
some  days. 

The  gad-flies  are  more  annoying  to  beasts  than  to  men  ;  a  horse  will  come 
in  dripping  with  blood  from  their  attacks  after  a  ride  through  the  grass  during 
the  rainy  season. 

*  Incense  as  a  pleasant  protection  from  noxious  insects  is  well  worth  carrying  to  Central  Africa.  It 
is  much  used  by  the  Arabs  and  consequently  can  be  bought  readily  at  Zanzibar.  Its  fiimes,  throwa 
on  hot  embers,  are  not  only  very  agreeable  to  one's  sense  of  smell  but  drive  away  mosquitoes,  midges  and 
most  other  insects. 


ZOOLOGY  377 

House-flies,  except  in  some  of  the  Arab  towns  and  large  European  settle- 
ments or  in  places  where  much  cattle  are  kept,  are  not  nearly  so  severe  a  pest 
as  in  South  Africa  or  the  Mediterranean  countries.  Indeed,  in  cool  places  like 
Zomba  the  domestic  fly  does  not  give  as  much  trouble  as  in  many  country 
houses  in  England. 

And  now  we  come  to  the  tsetse,  perhaps  the  most  serious  of  all  the  many 
insect  pests  of  Africa  in  its  check  to  European  enterprise.  It  is  difficult  to 
overestimate  the  importance  of  the  part  played  by  this  noxious  little  insect 
in  preventing  the  opening  up  of  Central  Africa. 

This  was  first  experienced  by  the  earlier  Portuguese  Expeditions  of  five 
hundred  or  six  hundred  mounted  men  which  would  set  out  from  Sena  on  the 
Lower  Zambezi  in  the  i6th  and  17th.  centuries  to  secure  the  gold  mines  to 
the  north  and  south.  We  read  in  Portuguese  records  how  their  horses  soon 
succumbed  to  the  attacks  of  a  fly.  The  riders  were  left  without  steeds  and  the 
expeditions  came  to  an  abortive  termination,  many  of  the  Europeans  dying 
of  fever  or  succumbing  to  the  attacks  of  the  natives  through  having  to  make 
their  way  on  foot.  But  for  the  tsetse-fly  the  whole  history  of  South-Central 
Africa  would  be  different.  It  would  have  been  rapidly  traversed  by  mounted 
men,  not  nearly  so  much  ill-health  would  have  pursued  explorers  and  pioneers 
forced  to  travel  on  foot,  and  the  whole  question  of  transport  would  be  rendered 
infinitely  more  easy  as  coaches  and  waggons  could  run  and  huge  numbers 
of  pack  animals — ^horses,  mules  and  oxen — might  convey  goods  which  at 
present  are  carried  on  men*s  heads.  Undoubtedly  the  tsetse-fly  has  checked 
the  southward  range  of  Muhammadan  raiders  from  the  north.  But  for  the 
presence  of  this  insect  in  the  Congo  Basin  and  in  Equatorial  East  Africa,  the 
Muhammadanised  negroes  and  Arabs  of  the  Sudan  would  have  spread  much 
farther  south  than  they  have  done  already  on  their  sturdy  little  ponies. 

The  tsetse  is  a  most  insignificant  fly  in  appearance.  I  give  here  drawings 
of  it  that  I  have  done  from  specimens  sent  to  the  British  Museum.  I  have 
purposely  drawn  these  myself  because  the  conscientious  entomologist  will 
persist  in  presenting  to  the  public  in  illustrated  natural  history  works  and 
books  of  travel  a  tsetse-fly  which  the  average  traveller  finds  it  quite  impossible 
to  recognise  in  Africa,  about  three  times  the  size  of  the  largest  bluebottle 
and  with  wings  spread  at  right  angles  to  the  body.^ 

When  I  first  went  to  Tropical  Africa  I  looked  in  vain  for  a  gigantic  blue- 
bottle with  vivid  black  and  white  striping,  and  a  proboscis  half  an  inch  long : 
it  was  a  long  time  before  it  occurred  to  me  that  a  small  brownish  fly  with  a 
faintly  barred  brown  and  white  abdomen  (which  again  was  generally  concealed 
by  the  closely-folded  wings)  could  be  the  tsetse,  though  I  knew  it  was  a  fly 
capable  of  inflicting  a  disagreeable  prick  on  my  skin  and  not  infrequently 
drawing  from  me  a  drop  of  blood.  This,  however,  is  the  appearance  of  the 
true  tsetse  {Glossina  morsitans),  and  the  drawing  which  I  give  here  very  fairly 
represents  its  ordinary  appearance  with  the  wings  closely  folded  over  the  back. 
The  actual  fly  is  a  little  smaller  than  the  size  represented  in  the  drawing. 

Fortunately  the  tsetse-fly  is  not  present  in  all  parts  of  British  Central 
Africa.  Roughly  speaking,  it  may  be  said  that  it  is  absent  from  any  district 
that  is  above  3000  feet  in  altitude  and  is  not  found  in  many  of  the  low- 
lying  lands  for  some  hitherto  unexplained  reason,  no  doubt  connected  with 
human  settlement.      It  is  present  throughout  the  whole  valley  of  the  great 

^  This  6gure  is  familiar  to  most  persons  in  Livingstone's  first  book  of  travels.  It  has  been  repeated 
and  repeated  in  succeeding  books. 


378 


BRITISH   CENTRAL  AFRICA 


I 


Hi 


n  if^ 


I 


*l*^wrf  ^* 


Luangwa  River  from  the  Zambezi  to  the  verge  of  the  Nyasa-Tanganyika 
plateau.  It  is  found  on  part  of  the  upper  course  of  the  River  Luapula  and 
on  the  shores  of  Lake  Mweru,  but  is  absent  from  the  greater  part  of  the  country 
round  Bangweolo.  It  is  most  abundant  on  the  south  coast  of  Tanganyika, 
disappearing,  however,  as  soon  as  the  slopes  of  the  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau 

are  reached.  On  Lake  Nyasa 
-'  it  is  absent  from  almost  the 
entirety  of  the  east  coast. 
On  the  west  coast  it  is  met 
with  between  Deep  Bay  on 
the  north  and  the  River  Bua 
on  the  south,  some  patches 
in  between,  however,  being 
free  from  it.  From  about 
Kotakota  and  the  Marimba 
district  it  is  absent  It  re- 
appears again  south  of  the 
Marimba  in  the  northern 
part  of  the  coast  lands  of 
the  Central  Angoniland  dis- 
trict. From  the  south  coast 
of  Lake  Nyasa  it  is  almost 
entirely  absent,  but  it  is 
found  again  on  a  small 
portion  of  the  Upper  Shire. 
In  the  low-lying  country 
round  Lake  Chilwa  up  to 
tht!  ylopLvs  of  Mlanje  and  the  hills  near  Zomba  it 
is  present.  On  the  Central  Shire  at  Chikwawa 
and  Katua^^a  there  is  no  tsetse,  but  in  the  Elephant 
Marsh  below  it  ^ibounds,  as  also  in  much  of  the 
Ruo  district  and  in  the  district  of  the  Lower 
Shire.  AUva)'s,  however,  when  the  land  rises  to 
3000  feet  and  beyond  the  tsetse  disappears.  This 
insect  has  a  great  dislike  to  water  and  a  still 
stronger  dislike  to  a  congeries  of  humai\  habita- 
tions. In  consequence  it  is  possible  to  convey  horses  and  cattle  up  the  rivers 
without  the  least  danger  of  their  being  bitten,  as  long  as  they  remain  on 
the  boat  anchored  in  mid-stream.  They  are  also  quite  safe  in  the  middle 
of  any  collection  of  huts  or  in  any  town.  It  is  a  fortunate  thing  that  there 
is  no  tsetse  at  Katunga  or  Chikwawa  on  the  Central  Shire,  as  live-stock 
can  be  brought  the  whole  way  by  water  to  this  place  from  the  mouth  of  the 
Zambezi,^  landed  there  and  sent  up  to  Blantyre,  and  can  thence  be  conveyed  by 
various  routes  which  are  free  from  tsetse-fly  to  the  Upper  Shire  and  so  on  to 
Lake  Nyasa.  Another  important  fact  to  be  borne  in  mind  is  that  the  tsetse-fly 
does  not  bite  at  night,  therefore  if  a  tsetse-haunted  district  must  be  crossed  it 
should  be  done  at  night  time — by  moonlight  if  possible.  It  is  said  also  that 
smearing  the  bodies  of  the  animals  with  cow-dung  will  repel  the  insect.  One 
bite  of  a  tsetse-fly  is  not  necessarily  of  much  account,  or  even  two ;  it  is  where 
the  animal  is  bitten  three  or  more  times  that  the  issue  is  certainly  fatal,  though 

^  The  tsetse  is  apparently  absent  from  Chinde  and  Quelimane  and  much  of  the  Zambezi  Delta. 


>^. 


THE  TSETSE  FLY 


ZOOLOGY  379 

death  is  sometimes  long  deferred  and  may  not  occur  till  several  weeks  after  the 
infection.  The  victim  gradually  falls  off  in  condition,  suffers  from  extreme 
depression  and  loss  of  appetite,  and  ultimately  dies  from  apparent  blood- 
poisoning. 

Donkeys  are  far  less  subject  to  the  poisonous  character  of  its  bite  than 
horses  or  mules ;  indeed  it  is  said  that  the  domestic  donkey  of  East  Africa 
which  is  only  one  degree  removed  from  the  Abyssinian  wild  ass,  is  impervious 
to  its  attacks,  and  certainly  none  of  those  animals  have  died  from  tsetse  bite  in 
British  Central  Africa.  Major  Lugard,  I  believe,  has  found  on  his  expedition 
to  Lake  Ngami,  that  his  donkeys  were  the  only  animals  which  survived  the 
attacks  of  the  tsetse.  Dogs  are  killed  by  it  and  even  cats  will  not  resist  its 
attacks  when  too  frequent.  On  the  Mwanza  river,  an  affluent  of  the  Shire  nearly 
opposite  to  Katunga,  the  tsetse  are  so  numerous  that  the  only  domestic  animals 
which  can  be  kept  by  the  natives  are  fowls.  Its  bite  on  man  produces  absolutely 
no  effect  beyond  the  pain  of  the  sharp  puncture.  It  is  hardly  necessary  to 
point  out  that  the  wild  game  of  Africa — the  buffalo,  the  antelope  and  the  zebra 
— are  quite  unaffected  by  the  tsetse  bite,^  though  their  nearest  congeners  among 
domestic  animals — the  ox,  goat  and  horse — are  killed  by  this  fly.  So  far  as  we 
can  judge  from  specimens  classified  in  the  British  Museum  the  range  of  the  true 
tsetse  (Glossina  morsitans)  extends  from  South  Africa  up  to  the  Congo  Basin, 
Lakes  Mweru,  Tanganyika  and  the  borders  of  Somaliland.  A  closely  allied 
species  comes  from  the  Congo  Basin,  the  Niger  Delta,  and  other  parts  of  West 
Africa,  a  fly  which,  so  far  as  we  know,  is  equally  poisonous.  I  am  not  sure  that 
the  actual  tsetse  is  not  found  in  the  Niger  Delta  and  in  parts  of  the  Congo 
Basin.  Other  species  of  Glossina  inhabit  other  parts  of  Africa  but  do  not 
appear  to  be  poisonous.  In  the  greater  part  of  the  Nigerian,  the  Central  and 
the  Egyptian  Sudan  the  tsetse  is  absent,  thus  permitting  a  far  more  rapid  and 
healthy  development  and  conquest  of  these  countries,  as  horses  are  abundant 
and  can  be  employed  to  mount  cavalry  and  transport  travellers  while  for  trade 
purposes  mules  and  oxen  can  be  employed  ;  and  an  unlimited  number  of  cattle 
might  be  reared. 

The  nature  of  the  tsetse  poison  is  not  yet  determined.  It  is  not  known  that 
it  injects  any  venom,  it  simply  appears  to  insert  the  prong  of  the  proboscis  and 
suck  the  blood.  Some  have  advanced  the  theory  that  there  is  no  inherent 
poison  in  the  tsetse  itself,  but  that  it  inserts  the  germs  of  malaria.  The 
argument  sustained  is  that  the  wild  animals  of  Africa  have  in  the  course  of 
ages  of  adaptation  become  inured  to  malarial  poisoning,  but  that  they  harbour 
in  their  blood  the  micro-organisms  of  malaria.  These,  passed  on  by  the  tsetse- 
fly,  passing  with  infected  proboscis  from  wild  to  tame  animal,  increase  and 
multiply  in  the  latter,  which  is  not  inoculated,  and  the  beast  dies  not  from  a 
specific  "tsetse"  poison,  but  from  malaria  introduced  into  the  blood  by  the 
tsetse.  I  confess,  however,  this  theory,  though  ingenious,  does  not  strike  me  as 
adequately  accounting  for  all  the  facts.  I  cannot  help  thinking  myself  that 
the  tsetse  must  secrete  and  introduce  into  the  animal's  system  a  peculiar 
venom  which  in  the  human  being  causes  the  bite  to  itch ;  but  if  so  the  poison 
would  be  of  a  similar  nature  to  that  of  the  flea,  the  gnat  and  the  midge,  all  of 
which  produce  different  effects  on  different  people.  In  niy  own  case  the  bites 
of  fleas  and  still  more  of  bed-bugs  (especially  in  tropical  countries)  produce 
positively  feverish  symptoms  whereas  many  other  of  my  fellow-countrymen 
make  little  or  nothing  of  these  attacks. 

^  For  simplicity  of  diction  I  speak  of  the  tsetse  "bite."     It  is  of  course  2Lpufuture  of  the  proboscis. 


38o 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


Certainly  the  tsetse  tends  to  disappear  before  the  presence  of  man  and  the 
one  certain  cure  for  it  would  seem  to  be  the  placing  of  all  the  low-lying  parts  of 
British  Central  Africa  under  cultivation  and  the  settlement  of  innumerable 
negroes.  Fortunately  the  fly  does  not  much  trouble  our  politicjil  economy  for 
the  further  reasons  that  so  much  of  the  country  lies  above  its  habitat.  In  those 
districts  where  it  is  healthy  for  Europeans  to  settle  the  altitude  is  already  too 
great  to  permit  of  the  existence  of  the  tsetse-fly. 


APPENDIX    VII. 


LIST  OF  ORTHOPTERA,   HYMENOPTERA,  AND   HEMIPTERA 

COLLECTED    BY   SIR   HARRY  JOHNSTON   AND   OTHER   OFFICIALS   OF 
THE   B.C.A.   ADMINISTRATION   IN   BRITISH   CENTRAL   AFRICA 

By  W.  F.  KIRBY,  F.L.S.,  F.C.S. 


ORTHOPTERA. 


BLATTIDiE. 

Leucophlcea  madercB. 
Gynopeltis  crypiospila, 
„         discoidalis, 

GRYLLIDiE. 

Curtilla  africana, 
Brachytrypcs  membranacea. 
Acheta  bimaculaia, 

PHASGONURIDiE. 

Libanasa  fusca, 
Clonia  wahlbergi, 
Engaliopsis  peter sii, 
Pseudorhynchus  pungens, 
Mecopoda  latipennis. 
Tegra  spilophora, 
Arantia  spinulosa, 

LoCUSTIDiE. 

Acrida  pharaonis, 
„     pellucida. 


Mesops  abbreviatus. 

„      gracilis. 
Parga  spatulaia, 
Xiphocera  ioboscelis. 
„         haploscclis. 
„         atroos^ 
Phymateus  hildebrandti. 
Petasia  anchieiiE, 
Zonocerus  sanguinolentus, 

„        elegans, 
Taphronota  porosa. 
Cyrtacanthacris  rubella, 

„  ruficomis, 

Schistocerca  peregrina, 
„  (?)  adusta. 

„  (/)  genuale, 

CEdipoda  flavum, 
Chrotogonus  hemipterus, 
Phyllochoreia  hippiscus. 


HYMENOPTERA. 


FORMICIDiE. 

Camponotus  maculatus, 
Hoplomyrmtts  gagates. 
Dory  his  diadema, 
Paltothyreus  pestilentius, 
Carebara  colossus. 


MUTILLIDyE. 

Mutilla  ignava, 
„        astarie, 

ScOLIIDwE. 

Dielis  sulcata. 


ZOOLOGY 


381 


Bembicid^e. 
Bembex  undulata, 

POMPILIDiE. 

Pompilus  bracatus, 

SPHEGIDiE. 

PelopiBus  eckloni, 
ProncBus  maxiliaris, 
Sphex  boJumani, 

VESPIDiE. 

Polistes  marginalis. 


ScUTELLERIDiE. 

SpJuerocoris  argus. 
Libyssa  duodecimpunctata. 

PENTATOMIDiE. 

Atelocera  foveata. 

„        viridesecens, 
Piezostemum  mucronatum, 
Aspongopus  nubilis. 
Pentatoma  cincticollis, 
Rhaphigaster  viridulus, 
Phyllocephala  costaiis. 


HEMIPTERA. 


EUMENIDiE. 

Eumena  tinctor, 
Rhynchium  synagrioides. 

APIDiE. 

Megachile  rufiventris. 
„        temiinata. 
Apis  ligustica, 
Xylocopa  africana, 
„         nigrita, 
„        flavorufa. 


COREIDiE. 

Mictis  heteropus, 
Petascelis  remipes, 

PYRRHOCORIDiE. 

Dysdercus  fasciatus. 

REDVVIlDiE. 

Petalochirus  umbrosus, 
„  variegatus, 

Harpactor  segmentarius. 

NEPIDiE. 

Hydrocyrius  Columbia, 
Laccotrephes  ruber. 


APPENDIX   VIII. 

LIST  OF   LEPIDOPTERA   RECORDED   FROM   BRITISH 
CENTRAL  AFRICA 


Note. — This  list  is  founded  on  the  papers  published  by  Dr.  A.  G.  Butler,  F.L.S.,  in  the  Proceedings 
of  the  Zoological  Society  for  1893  and  1895.  The  term  sp,  nov,  indicates  that  the  new  species  was  first 
made  known  by  our  collections. 


Rhopalocera 

Amauris  ochlea,  I 

Amauris  lobettgula,  j 

Amauris  whyiei  {sp,  nov,), 
Amauris  dominicanus, 
Livinas  chrysippus, 
Limnas  klugii, 
Limnas  dorippus. 
Tirumaia  peiiverana, 
Melanitis  solandra. 


(Butterflies). 

Melanitis  libya, 
Gnophodes  diversa. 
Mycaksis  {Monotrichiis)  rhacotis, 
Mycalesis  (Monotrichiis)  eusirus, 
Mycaksis  {Monotrichiis)  mtriam, 
Mycaksis  ena, 
Samanta  perspicua, 
Physcosnura  pione^  and  do  var.  lucida^ 
n.  var. 


382 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


Neoccenyra  ypthimoides  {sp,  nov.), 

Ypthima  itonia, 

Ypthima  granulosa, 

Ypthima  simplicia, 

Charaxes  saturnus. 

„  „         var.  laticinctus, 

Charaxes  jocaste. 

Charaxes  guderiana, 

Charaxes  whytei  {sp,  nov.). 

Charaxes  bohemanL 

Charaxes  castor^  var.  flavifasciatus. 

Charaxes  achcemenes, 

Charaxes  phceus, 

Charaxes  pithodoris, 

Charaxes  cUhceron, 

Charaxes  tiridates, 

Charaxes  neanthes, 

Charaxes  brutus, 

Charaxes  druceanus, 

Charaxes  pollux, 

Charaxes  candiope, 

Charaxes  ethalion, 

Charaxes  lastL 

Charaxes  leoninus, 

Charaxes  violetta, 

Charaxes  eupale, 

Charaxes  varanes. 

Hypolimnas  misippus, 

Hypolimnas  alcippoides, 

Hypolimnas  inaria, 

Euralia  wahlbergi, 

Euralia  mima, 

Panopea  expansa. 
Junonia  artaxia, 
Junonia  nachtigalii, 
Junonia  tugela, 
Junonia  natalica, 
Junonia  chapunga. 
Junonia  ceryne, 
Junonia  galami, 
Junonia  aurorina  {sp.  nov.). 
Junonia  trimenii  {sp.  nov.). 
Junonia  calescens  {sp.  no2f.). 
Junonia  elgiva. 
Junonia  cuama. 
Junonia  simia. 
Junonia  cloantha. 


Junonia  actia. 

Junonia  sesamus. 

Junonia  bodpis. 

Junonia  delia. 

Junonia  cebrene. 

Pyrameis  cardui. 

Protogoniomorpha  definita. 

Protogoniomorpha  anacardii. 

Cymothoe  theobene. 

Hamanumida  dadalus. 

Neptis  agatha. 

Atella  columbina. 

Euphcedra  neophron. 

Euphcedra  coralia. 

Pseudargynnis  hegemone. 

Crenis  natalensis. 

Crenis  crawshayi  {sp.  nov.). 

Crenis  boisduvalii. 

Metacrenis  rosa. 

Metacrenis  crawshayi. 

Hamanumida  dcedaius. 

Catuna  criihea. 

Neptis  agatha. 

Atella  columbina, 

Byblia  vulgaris. 

Euryicla  dryopc. 

Hypanis  acheloia. 

Acroea  vinidia. 

Acraa  cabira. 

Acroea  excelsior. 

Acraa  ventura. 

Acrcea  terpsichore. 

Acrasa  perrupta. 

Acrcea  lycia. 

Acrcea  doubledayi, 

Acrcea  empusa  {sp.  nov.). 

Acrcea  periphanes. 

Acraa  caldarena. 

Acrcea  acrita. 

Acrcea  guillemei. 

Acrcea  natalica. 

Acrcea  serena  var.  perrupta, 

Acrcea  arcticincta. 

Acrcea  areca. 

Acrcea  acara. 

Acrcea  oncoea, 

Acrcea  buxtoni. 


ZOOLOGY 


383 


AcrcKa  sganzint\ 
Flanema  johnstoni, 
Alcena  nyassce, 
Alcsna  nyassa^  var.  ochracea. 
Alcana  amazula, 
jPofyommatus  bceticus, 
Azanus  occidentalism 
Tarucus  plinius, 
Nacaduba  sichela, 
Tingra  amenaida, 
Lachnocnema  bibulus, 
Hyreus  lingeus, 
Zizera  knysna, 
Zizera  lucida. 
Zizera  gaika. 
Zyccenesthes  bubastus, 
Lyccenesthes  adherball 
Lycctnesthes  liodes, 
Catochrysops  osiris. 
Catochrysops  asopus, 
Casialius  hypoleucus  {sp,  nov,), 
Casialius  calice, 
Azanus  natalensis. 
lolaus  buxtoni, 
lolaus  calculus, 
Myrina  ficedula, 
Tarucus  pulcher, 
Tatura  philippus, 
Taiura  ccbcuIus, 
Virachola  anta, 
Spindasis  nyassa, 
Spindasis  homeyeri, 
Axiocerses  amanga. 
Axiocerses  harpax, 
Axiocerses  perion, 
Mylothris  agathina. 
Mylothris  rUppelli, 
Afylothris  yuiei, 
Nychitona  aicesta, 
Colias  edusa, 
Terias  zoe, 
Terias  ieonis. 


Tagiades  flesus. 
Proteides  erinnys, 
Sarangesa  tnotozi. 


Terias  regularis. 

Terias  orientis, 

Teracolus  rhodesinus  {sp,  nov,), 

Teracolus  phlegyas, 

Tercuolus  anax, 

Teracolus  opalescens, 

Teracolus  hildebrandtii, 

Teracolus  subfasciatus. 

Teracolus  sipylus, 

Teracolus  eniini, 

Teracolus  theogone, 

Teracolus  subvenosus, 

Teracolus  omphale, 

Caiopsilia  florella. 

Catopsilia  pyrene. 

Belenois  severina, 

Belenois  agrippina. 

Belenois  gidica, 

Belenois  crawshayi  {sp,  nav.) 

Belenois  thysa, 

Belenois  calypso, 

Belenois  mesentina, 

Belenois  diminuta  {sp,  nov.). 

Phrissura  nyassana, 

Herpcenia  eriphia, 

Gluiophrissa  saba, 

Nepheronia  ihalassina, 

Eronia  leda, 

Eronia  cleodora, 

Papilio  lurlinus, 

Papilio  policenes, 

Papilio  porthaon, 

Papilio  py  lades. 

Papilio  similis, 

Papilio  leonidas. 

Papilio  corinneus, 

Papilio  nivinox  (sp,  nov,), 

Papilio  demoleus, 

Papilio  ophidicephalus, 

Papilio  constantinus, 

Papilio  merope, 

Papilio  erinus. 


HESPERiDiE  (Skippers). 

Sarangesa  moiozoides  ? 
Sarangesa  astrigera  (sp.  nov,), 
Nephile  funebris. 


384 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


Caprona  pillaana. 

Caprona  jamesonL 

Hesptria  dromus, 

Aderos  philander. 

Acleros  placidus, 

Oxypalpus  ruso, 

Osmodes  ranoha, 

Heteropterus  formosus  (sp.  nov,), 

Cyclopides  quadrisignaius  {sp.  nov.). 

Cydopides  midas  (sp.  nov,). 

Cydopides  willeniu 


Padraona  watsoni  {sp.  nov,). 

Gegenes  letterstedti. 

Baoris  fatuellus. 

Baoris  inconspicua. 

J^aoris  aniadhu  ? 

Halpe  nigerrima  {sp.  nov.). 

Halpe  lugens. 

Baracusfenestratus  {sp.  nov.). 

Ceratrichia  siellaia. 

Acromackus  1  Johns toni  {sp.  nov.). 


Heterocera  (Moths). 


Cephonodes  hylas. 

^llopus  hirundo. 

Charocatnpa  osiris. 

Daphnis  nerii. 

Nephde  accentifera. 

Nephele  fimebris. 

^gocera  menete. 

j^gocera  fervida. 

Charilina  amabilis. 

Xanthospilopteryx  superba. 

Antiphdla  airinotata. 

Syntomis  ceres. 

Diospage  sdntillans  {sp.  nov.). 

Neurosymploca  procrioides  {sp.  nov.). 

Anomceotes  nigrivenosus  {sp.  nov.). 

Staphylinochrous  whytei  {sp.  nov.). 

Pleretes  thelwalli. 

Lepista  trimenii. 

Deiopeia  pulchella. 

Argina  leonina. 

Argina  amanda. 

Egybolia  paillantina, 

Hibrildes  norax. 

Rhanidophora  phedonia. 

Canopus  rubripes. 

Ladpa  bizonoides  {sp.  nov.). 

Artaxa  ochraceata. 

Olapa  fulvinotata  {sp.  fiov.) 

Aroa  discalis. 

Leptosoma  Uuconoe. 

Antheua  simpUx. 

Fhiala  costipunda  ? 

Pseudapfielia  apoUinaris. 


Buna^a  epithyrefia. 
Gynanisa  maia. 
y^dia  duldstriga. 
Polydesma  untbricola. 
Calliodes  rivuligera  {sp.  nov.). 
Calliodes  glaucescens  {sp.  nov.). 
Phxgorista  zebra. 
Acontia  graellsii. 
Patula  walkeri. 
Cyligramma  rudilinea. 
Cyligramma  latona. 
Cyligramma  limadna. 
Maxula  capensis. 
Entomogramma  pardus. 
Entomogramma  nigriceps. 
Dysgonia  algira. 
Dysgonia  derogans. 
Grammodes  geometrica. 
Fodina  johnstoni. 
Trigonodes  hyppasia. 
Drasteria  judicans. 
Plecoptera  {sp.  inc.). 
Azazia  rubricans. 
Remigia  mutuaria. 
Remigia  archesia. 
Remigia  repanda. 
Lacera  capella. 
Ophiodes  crocdpetinis. 
Deva  commoda. 
Plusia  eriosoma. 
Hypena  abyssinialis. 
Glyphodes  sinuata. 
Gonodela  brongusaria. 


ZOOLOG 


385 


Gonodda  kilimanjarensis, 
Gonodela  zombina  (sp,  nov.), 
Tephrina  johnstoni  (sp,  nov,), 
Stemorrhages  sericea. 


Haritalodes  multilinealis. 
Lygropia  muscerdalis. 
Cadorma  sinuata. 


APPENDIX    IX 

LIST  OF   COLEOPTERA   RECORDED   FROM    BRITISH 
CENTRAL   AFRICA 


Note. — This  list  is  founded  on  the  paper  published  by  Mr.  C.  J.  Gahan,  M.A.,  in  the  Zoological 
Society's  Proceedings  for  1893. 


Cicindela  dathrata. 

Anthia  fornasini, 
Graphipierus  salince, 
Scarites  superdliosus, 
Teffbts  violaceus, 
Tefflus  deUgorguei, 
Cydosomus  {sp,  inc), 
Rhaihymus  mdanarius, 

Staphylinus procerus  {sp,  nov,) 

Oredochilus  bicostatus, 

Trox  melancholicus, 
Anachalcos  convexus, 
Catharsius  platycerus, 
Hdiocopris  japdus, 
Onthophagus  bicallosus, 
Lepidioia  Upidota. 
Adordus  {sp,  inc), 
Cyphonistes  vallaius, 
Trochalus  {sp,  inc.), 
Anomala  {sp,  inc,), 
Popillia  sercna, 
Fopillia  distinguenda, 
Goliathus  kirkianus, 
Ranzania  petersiana, 
Neptunides  polychrous, 
Ceraiorhina  princeps, 
Heterorhina  dongata, 
Genyodonia  quadricomis, 
Cdonia  impressa, 

25 


Rhabdotis  aulica, 
Diplognatha  hebrc&a. 
Diplognatha  silicea, 
Pseudodinteria  infuscaia, 
Oxythyrea  vitiicoUis. 

Sternocera  funebris, 
Psiloptcra  proximo, 
Psiloptera  amicta, 
Psiloptera  {sp,  inc), 
Psiloptera  {sp,  inc), 
Agrilus  grandis. 

Lycus  {sp,  inc), 

Trachynotus  sordidus, 
Anchophthalmus  sUphoides, 
Catamerus  rugosus  {sp.  nov.) 
Zophosis  agaboides. 
Rhytidonota  gradlis, 
Psammodes  dimidiatus. 

Mylabris  dicincta. 

Mylabris  bihumerosa. 

Mylabris  tristigma. 

Epicauta  nyassensis. 

Epicauta  ccelestina. 

Coryna  apidpustulata. 

Lixus  {sp,  inc), 

Sphadasmus  camelus, 

Attdabus  {Pleurolabus),  {sp,  inc), 

Blosyrus  carinatus. 


386 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


Mecaspis  whyiei  {sp.  nov,). 

Phileniatium  nitidipenne, 

Anubis  frontalis  [sp,  nor.). 

Lophoptera  asperula. 

Tragocephala  variegate. 

Ceroplesis  coffer. 

Cymatura  bifasciata^  var.  nigripennis. 

Nitocris  simiiis  (sp.  nav.). 

Phrissoma  giganteum. 

Phryneta  spinaior. 

Apomecyna  latefasciata. 

Sagra  johnstoni  {sp.  nov.). 
Cory  nodes  dejeani. 
Cory  nodes  zombce  (sp.  nov.). 
Colasposoma  cyaneocupreum. 


Coiasposoma  (sp.  inc.). 
Ceralces  ferrugineus, 
Ceralces  natalensis. 
Ceralces  ornata. 
Atcchna  clarki. 
Oides  coiiaris, 

Diacantha  distincta  (sp.  nov.). 
Diacantha  conifera. 
Ootheca  (sp.  inc.). 
Pachytoma  gigantea. 
Cassida  hybrida. 
Cctssida  parummaculata. 
Cydonia  lunata. 
Epilachna  paykulli. 
Epilachna  hirta. 
Epilachna  dregei. 


3^ 


AN  ANGONI   MAN    FROM   THE  WEST   NYASA   DISTRICT 


CHAPTER   X. 

THE    NATIVES   OF    BRITISH    CENTRAL 

AFRICA 

A   GENERAL    DESCRIPTION   OF   THE   INDIGENOUS   HUMAN   RACES   CONSIDERED 
ANTHROPOLOGICALLY   AND   ETHNOLOGICALLY 

AS  already  stated  in  my  review  of  the  History  of  British  Central  Africa, 
the  Native  Races  of  this  part  of  Africa  belong  at  the  present  day  to  the 
Bantu  Negro  stock — entirely  so,  linguistically,  and  mainly  so  physically,  ^ 
though   in   certain   tribes   there   are   traces   of  a   former   Bushman-Hottentot 
intermixture. 

Considered  from  the  point  of  view  of  language-relationships,  customs  and 
traditions,  the  Bantu  negroes  of  the  Eastern  half  of  British  Central  Africa  fall 
naturally  into  ten  groups,  which,  commencing  in  the  north-west  and  proceeding 
southwards  and  eastwards,  may  be  enumerated  as  follows  : — 

1.  The  Awemba^  stock, — to  which  apparently  belong  also  the  Awa-wisa  or 
Aba-bisa,2  Ba-bozwa,  Ba-usi*  and  the  Ba-lunga.  The  Awemba  and  kindred 
peoples  inhabit  the  western  portion  of  the  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  the 
district  lying  between  Tanganyika  and  Mweru,  and  the  country  round  Bang- 
weolo,  and  to  the  east  of  the  River  Luapula,  with  the  exception  of  an  enclave 
round  the  south  end  of  Lake  Mweru  and  east  of  the  Luapula,  which  is 
inhabited  (at  any  rate  as  a  dominant  race)  by  the 

2.  A-lunda.  The  Alunda  are  related  to  the  A-rua,  farther  to  the  north,  and 
belong  to  a  very  important  and  widespread  branch  of  the  Bantu  people  in  the 
heart  of  South  Central  Africa.  The  Alunda  or  A-rua  race  once  formed  a  huge 
kingdom  in  the  southern  part  of  the  Congo  Basin — a  kingdom  which  extended 
from  the  vicinity  of  Angola  on  the  west  to  Lakes  Tanganyika  and  Mweru  on 
the  east,  but  which  gradually  split  up  into  independent  satrapies  which  became 
in  time  kingdoms  by  themselves. 

3.  The  A-lungu.*  This  group  which  like  the  A-lunda  is  specially  notable 
for  having  reduced  the  plural  prefix  from  aba-  to  <2-,  occupies  the  southern  and 
south-eastern  shores  of  Tanganyika,  and  a  portion  of  the  Nyasa-Tanganyika 
plateau. 

*  In  Itawa  these  people  call  themselves  Aba-emba,  and  are  sometimes  spoken  of  as  the  Ba-bemba. 
^  In  these  parts  the  b  is  already  melting  into  w  at  the  beginning  of  words. 

'  Or  We-usi. 

*  Sometimes  called  the  Arungu-Amambwe  stock,  which  again  are  related  to  the  A-fipa  on  German 
territory. 

389 


39° 


BRITISH    CENTRAL    AFRICA 


4.  The  Awa-nkonde^  stock.  This  includes  amongst  other  tribes  the  Awa- 
wandia,  the  Awa-nyakiusa,  the  Awa-ndali,  the  Awa-kukwe,  the  Awa-rambia, 
the  Awa-wiwa,  the  Awa-nyamwanga,  and  the  Awa-wanda  and  the  Awungu* 

(the  two  last  on  German  territory).  The 
languages  of  the  Awa-nkonde  stock  are  gene- 
rally remarkable  for  their  archaic  character  in 
preserving  many  old  Bantu  roots  and  gram- 
matical forms.  Their  full  form  of  the  plural 
prefix  of  the  second  class  (referring  to  human 
beings)  is  almost  always  Awa-,  the  only  races, 
with  the  exception  of  the  Awemba,  in  which 
this  form  is  met  with.  They  inhabit  the 
northern  and  north-west  coasts  of  Lake  Nyasa 
and  much  of  the  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau, 
and  extend  north-westwards  to  the  shores  of 
Lake  Rukwa. 

5.  The  Ba-tumbuka  stock.  This  includes 
the  Wa-tonga,  the  A-timbuka  or  Ba-tumbuka, 
and  to  some  extent  the  Wa-henga,  A-nyika, 
and  A-poka,  though  these  two  latter  groups 
are  of  somewhat  obscure  affinities.  The  Wa- 
henga  may  possibly  be  a  mongrel  race,  formed 
by  the  mingling  of  refugees  from  many  tribes. 
It  is  possible  that  this  linguistic  group  may 
extend  to  the  Upper  Luangwa  River. 

6.  The  Nyanja  stock.  This  is  the  largest 
and  most  important  of  all  and  includes  the 
following  tribes : — The  A-senga^  of  the  north 
bank  of  the  Zambezi  and  the  river  Luangwa ; 
the  A-maravi;  the  A-chipeta;  the  A-makanga; 
the  Va-dema ;  the  Va-nyungwi  of  Tete ;  the 
A-maftanja,*  of  the  Lower  Zambezi,  the  Lower 
Shire,  the  Western  Shire,  the  Shire  Highlands, 
the  Mlanje  district  and  the  Upper  Shire ;  the 
Ambo,  south  of  the  River  Ruo ;  the  Ma- 
chinjiri  of  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Lower 
Shire  ;^  the  A-nyanja  of  Lake  Chilwa,  of  the 
south  coast  of  Lake  Nyasa  and  of  the  eastern 
coast  of  that  lake  about  as  far  north  as  the 
Portugo- German  frontier;  and  finally  the 
A-chewa  of  the  west  coast  of  Lake  Nyasa.^ 

7.  The  Ba-tonga  or  Ba-toka  stock,  which 
includes  amongst  other  sections  the  Ba-ramba 

^  The  word  "Nkonde''  means  ''banana"  in  some  of  the  adjacent  languages,  and  was  no  doubt  applied 
with  aptness  to  the  North  Nyasa  district  which  is  singularly  rich  in  banana  groves. 

*  Originally  Awa-ungu.  '  Sometimes  called  Ba-senga  :  their  language  is  closely  related  to  Ki-bisa. 

*  This  is  a  case  of  a  double  plural.  The  root  -Hanja  is  the  same  as  -nyanja  (meaning  a  lake,  a  sea,  a 
big  water).  Ma-  which  is  often  used  as  a  tribal  prefix  would  mean,  "  the  people  of  the  lake,"  but  in 
course  of  time  it  became  so  united  to  the  root  -flanja  that  it  is  now  preceded  by  an  additional  plural 
prefix,  a-  {aba-). 

•  This  branch  of  the  Nyanja  stock  reaches  to  the  vicinity  of  the  Quelimane  district  where  it  touches 
the  Makua  races. 

•  These  people  are  sometimes  called  the  A-nkomanga. 


A   M NYANJA 


NATIVES  OF  BRITISH   CENTRAL  AFRICA       391 


and  Ba-lala,  and  which  occupies  the  country  on  the  banks  of  the  River  Kafue 
and  between  the  Luapula  and  the  Luangwa,  and  to  which  are  related  the 
Ba-nyai  and  Ba-toka  on  the  south  bank  of  the  Central  Zambezi. 

8.  Along  the  course  of  the  Zambezi  from  Zumbo  to  its  mouth  are  a  people, 
more  or  less  attached  to  the  Portuguese,  of  very  mixed  origin,  the  A-chikunda, 
who  speak  a  mongrel  dialect  chiefly  based  on  the  Nyanja  stock.  The 
A-chikunda  have  no  homogeneity  but  are  compounded  of  the  old  slaves  of  the 
Portuguese  brought  from  many  different  parts  of  Eastern  and  Central  Africa, 
who  are  more  or  less  loyal  subjects  of  the  Portuguese  and  who  have  developed 
this  lingua  franca,  the  Chikunda, 
into  which  a  large  number  of  the 
Portuguese  words  are  introduced. 

9.  The  A-lolo  and  Makua  group. 
This  section  only  enters  into  a 
very  small  portion  of  the  territory 
of  the  British  Protectorate  in  the 
Mlanje  district.  Elsewhere  it  ex- 
tends right  across  to  the  east  coast 
of  Africa  in  the  province  of  Mozam- 
bique and  along  the  Mozambique 
coast  southwards  to  Quelimane, 
where  a  kindred  language  is 
spoken :  and  lastly, 

10.  The  Yao  peoples,  the  "  Wa- 
yao."^  The  Yao  are  not  present 
in  British  Central  Africa  as  indi- 
genous inhabitants  but  rather  as 
invaders  whose  coming  was  not 
earlier  than  the  middle  of  this 
century.  At  the  present  time  they 
are  settled  in  more  or  less  numerous 
proportion  among  the  indigenous 
Anyanja  in  the  east  part  of  the 
Shire  province,  on  the  south-east 
coast  of  Lake  Nyasa  and  at  one 
or  two  places  on  the  south-west 
shores  of  the  lake.  Elsewhere  they 
extend  as  a  native  people  along 

the  banks  of  the  Lujenda  and  Ruvuma  rivers,  and  also  inhabit  the  high 
plateaux  between  those  streams,  and  march  with  the  Makua  on  the  south-east 
and  the  Magwangwara^  on  the  north-west. 

In  addition  to  the  foregoing  list  of  tribes  which  are  really  native  to  British 
Central  Africa,  may  be  cited  the  Angoni  and  the  Makololo,  who  are  in  reality 
not  races  but  simply  a  ruling  caste  dwelling  in  the  midst  of  British  Central 
African  tribes  whom  their  ancestors  subdued.  The  Angoni,  and  the  Magwang- 
wara  on  the  north-east  of  Nyasa,  are  relics  of  former  Zulu  invasions  of  the 


A   YAO   MAN 


*  The  Yao  pronunciation  of  their  tribal  name  is  usually  Wa-hiau  with  a  distinct  aspirate,  which  is  the 
more  remarkable  as  in  all  other  words  of  the  language  the  aspirate  ''  h  "  is  unknown,  and  where  ^'  h  "  has 
to  be  pronounced  in  a  foreign  word  **s"  is  substituted.  **  Yao*'  however  is  evidently  a  modern  contrac- 
tion of  Yawa  or  **  hiawa."     By  the  A-nyanja  people  they  are  known  as  A-jawa. 

*  A  tribe  of  Zulu  mongrels. 


392  BRITISH   CENTRAL   AFRICA 

country.^  The  Makololo,  as  already  related,  were  brought  by  Livingstone  and 
were  mostly  Bechuana  and  Baloi  people  from  the  Upper  Zambezi.  In  their 
case  they  are  scarcely  even  a  ruling  caste,  having  simply  furnished  some  twenty 
headmen  and  chiefs  to  the  Maftanja  people  who  dwell  on  the  Central  and 
Lower  Shire ;  but  inasmuch  as  their  tribal  name  of  Makololo  has  been  adopted 
by  most  of  their  subjects,  and  has  become  famous  by  the  resistance  offered 
in  days  gone  by  to  the  Portuguese,  it  is  better  not  to  leave  them  out  of  this 
catalogue. 

In  the  northern  part  of  the  British  Central  Africa  Protectorate  there  are  a 
few  Wa-nyamwezi  hunters  and  adventurers  who  are  mostly  in  the  employ  of 
Arabs,  or  free  lances  on  their  own  account.  These  men  sometimes  go  by  the 
nickname  of  "  Ruga-ruga."  A  few  mongrel  Arabs  and  Swahili  Coastmen  may 
still  be  seen  no  doubt  in  the  Marimba  district  of  the  Protectorate,  at  the  north 
end  of  Lake  Nyasa,  and  in  the  Yao  country;  but  there  are  numerous  Arab 
settlements  south  of  Tanganyika  and  near  Lake  Mweru.  Here  the  Arabs  are 
of  a  better  class,  and  having  managed  to  keep  on  good  terms  with  the 
Europeans  they  remain  there  undisturbed.  Arabs  are  also  said  to  have  formed 
trading  stations  to  the  west  of  Lake  Bangweolo.  Where  the  Arab  is  not  of 
African  birth  (a  man  of  Zanzibar  for  instance)  he  is  usually  a  native  of 
Maskat,  in  South  Eastern  Arabia. 

The  following  information  in  regard  to  the  Anthropology^  and  Ethnology 
of  the  negroes  of  British  Central  Africa  may  be  taken  to  have  a  general 
application  to  the  natives  of  the  eastern  portion  of  this  territory,  except  where 
any  particular  tribe  is  instanced,  and  where  special  features,  manners  and 
customs  are  noted  in  relation  to  one  tribe  which  may  not  be  shared  by  another. 

ANTHROPOLOGY 

All  black  negroes  possess  a  certain  uniformity  of  type  apparent  to  the 
European:  that  is  to  say,  all  the  negroes  inhabiting  the  coast  regions  of  Western 
Africa,  the  basins  of  the  Lower  Niger  and.  the  Benue,  the  shores  of  Lake  Chad, 
the  basins  of  the  Shari  River  and  the  Congo,  of  the  Upper  Nile  and  the  Great 
Lakes,  the  East  Coast,  the  Zambezi,  and  South  West  and  South  East  Africa. 

The  Nubians,  Fulas,  Hausas  (perhaps)  and  the  Mandingos  may  be  excepted 

^  This  is  the  history  of  the  Angoni  (Zulu)  invasions  of  British  Central  Africa  according  to  various 
authorities,  especially  Dr.  W.  A.  Elmslie  of  the  Livingstonia  Mission,  Upper  Nyasa,  who  has  worked  for 
many  years  among  these  people :  A  tribe  of  Zulus  originally  conquered  by  Chaloi  at  the  beginning  of  this 
century  assumed  the  name  of  Ngoni  (Aba-ngoni).  They  were  only  partially  conquered  however,  and 
retained  their  old  chief  under  Chaka's  suzerainty.  But  becoming  dissatisfied  with  the  central  tyranny  of 
the  Zulu  monarchy  they  started  off  in  a  body  with  women,  children,  and  cattle  for  the  north.  They 
crossed  the  Zambezi  at  Zumbo,  marched  up  between  Nyasa  and  Bangweolo,  and  entered  the  Fipa  country 
(which  they  conquered)  south-east  of  Lake  Tangan3nka.  From  Fipa  (where  they  settled  for  a  long  time) 
some  stra^lers  under  the  name  of  Watuta  reached  as  fJEur  north  as  the  Victoria  Nyanza ;  others  struck  to 
the  south-east  and  by  dominating  the  indigenous  people  of  Hehe  and  Ngindo  stock  east  of  Lake  Nyasa 
founded  the  tribe  of  mongrel  raiders  known  as  the  Magwangwara.  Then  came  a  disruption  of  the  Zulu 
kingdom  in  Fipa.  The  Ngoni-Zulus  quitted  that  country  and  turned  back  to  Uie  West  Nyasa  counfries. 
One  section  under  Mombera  settled  in  the  Tumbuka  country ;  another  under  Mpezeni  in  the  lands  between 
the  Nyasa  watershed  and  the  River  Luangwa ;  and  a  third  established  the  small  Zulu  kingdom  in  Central 
Angoniland  which  is  now  ruled  by  Chiwere.  Where  Chikusi's  Angoni  came  from  is  not  very  dear: 
perhaps  they  branched  off  to  South-west  Nyasa  at  the  time  of  the  original  crossing  of  the  Zambezi,  which 
look  place  in  June,  1825  (the  date  is  marked  by  an  eclipse  of  the  sun).  Angoni  is  the  Chi-njraiija  form  of 
their  name  in  the  plural  and  has  become  the  customary  term  ;  but  Ngoni  or  Abangoni  is  more  correct, 

*  Anthropology  is  the  science  descriptive  of  the  physical  characteristics  of  man ;  Ethnology  the 
consideration  of  his  mind  and  the  result  of  his  mental  processes,  that  is  to  say  his  arts,  his  customs,  his 
beliefs.  The  first  treats  of  man  purely  as  one  amongst  many  mammalian  types ;  the  other  deals  with  him 
in  his  progress  towards  the  demi-god. 


/-., 


^     Ia 


\\ 


Idtotars 


^1 

EXPLANATION  0 

L             J  Unlnhabtted  An 

1                1  Under  slBhabiu 

CL 

']  Fronstois    „ 

K^iH  From  15  to  so,, 
^^^^H  Ovor  90 

ANGONI     Nmmtts^Nn 

The  Edmburgli  G«o  A'tmhical  in^tti) 


NATIVES  OF  BRITISH   CENTRAL  AFRICA 


393 


from  this  sweeping  statement  as  showing  an  unmistakable  mingling  with  a 
lighter  race  and  being  more  Negroid  than  negro.  ^  Nevertheless,  within  this 
wide  domain  of  the  black  negro  there  is  a  remarkable  general  similarity  of 
type ;  though  it  is  usually  possible  for  the  practised  eye  to  distinguish  one  tribe 
from  another  by  the  physiognomy.  Yet  if  you  took  a  negro  from  the  Gold 
Coast  of  West  Africa  and 
passed  him  off  amongst  a 
number  of  Nyasa  natives,  and 
if  he  were  not  remarkably 
distinguished  from  them  by 
dress  or  tribal  marks,  it  would 
not  be  easy  to  pick  him  out ; 
but  though  there  is  often  an 
indefinable  resemblance  be- 
tween the  individuals  of  one 
tribe  which  distinguishes  them 
from  the  average  individual 
of  another  tribe,  still  there 
are  so  many  exceptions  to 
this  uniformity  of  type  that 
the  negro  from  a  widely - 
removed  part  of  Africa  might 
pass  muster  in  almost  any 
people  in  the  British  Central 
Africa  Protectorate  as  merely 
a  slightly  aberrant  local  type. 
The  average  individual  of  one 
tribe  is  taller  or  shorter  than 
another,  but  all  races  of  black 
negroes  can  exhibit  very  tall 
individuals  and  very  short 
ones  belonging  to  the  same 
racial  type.  In  the  colour  of 
the  skin  there  is  a  consider- 
able amount  of  variation. 
Here  again  there  are  extremes 
met  with  in  the  individual 
members  of  a  tribe,  as  well 
as  a  general  tendency  to  be  detected  in  one  tribe  or  another  towards  greater 
average  darkness  or  lightness  of  skin.  As  a  rule  the  negro  of  British  Central  y 
Africa  is  decidedly  black,  so  far  as  any  human  skin  is  really  black  —  the 
nearest  approach  to  actual  black  being  a  deep,  dull,  slatey-brown.  I  should 
say  that  the  average  skin  tint  is  represented  by  No.  3  in  Topinard*s  specimens 
of  the  colours  of  skins, — that  is  to  say  it  is  a  dark  chocolate.  But  cases 
of  a  yellowish  brown  are  not  at  all  uncommon  in  individuals.  This  tint 
would  be  represented  by  No.  4  in  Topinards  scale,  except  that  it  has  a 
little  more  of  the  raw  sienna  colour  than  is  given  in  Topinard's  example. 
The  negroes  of  the  western  parts  of  the  regions  under  review,  in  Itawa,  on 

^  The  Galla  and  Somali  are  of  course  emphatically  Negroid,  and  are  not  included  in  this  statement 
at  all.  They  are  simply  darker  types  of  the  Hamitic  branch  midway  in  type  between  Semite  and  the 
Negro. 


AN   ARAB   OF   TANGANYIKA    (RUMALIZA) 


394  BRITISH   CENTRAL   AFRICA 

the  south  end  of  Tanganyika  and  along  the  Luapula,  might  appear  to  the 
unobservant  traveller  a  very  red  brown  in  tint ;  but  this  would  be  owing 
to  their  habit  of  colouring  themselves  (like  the  people  of  the  Congo  basinj 
with  powdered  redwood  or  camwood  mixed  with  oil,  or  red-ochre  mixed  with 
fat.  Occasionally  there  are  cases  of  positive  "  Xanthism,"  or  a  state  of  colora- 
tion similar  in  a  much  less  degree  to  Albinism — namely  that  wherein  the  colour 
of  the  skin  and  the  iris  of  the  eye  is  quite  a  light  yellowish  brown.  This  tyf>e 
is  very  much  admired  by  the  negroes,  especially  in  a  woman  ;  for  their  general 
tendency  is  to  admire  the  lighter-coloured  skin  rather  than  the  darker.  The 
wives  of  chiefs  have  often  been  pointed  out  to  me  for  special  notice  who  have 
skins  and  eyes  of  this  rather  disagreeable  pale  yellow  brown.  Perhaps  it  is  the 
iris  of  the  eye  being  of  this  light  yellow  colour  like  that  of  a  lion's  eye,  which 
is  so  disagreeable.  Fine  dark  eyes  with  a  pale  golden  skin  would  certainly 
appeal  to  the  European's  sense  of  beauty. 

Cases  of  Albinism,  where  the  hair  is  yellowish  white,  the  iris  of  the  eye 
pink,  and  the  body-skin  an  unwholesome-looking  reddish  white,  are  not  un- 
common, though  perhaps  not  quite  so  common  as  they  are  on  the  West  Coast 
of  Africa. 

I  do  not  think  that  any  of  the  tribes  in  British  Central  Africa  can  show 
a  difference  of  colour  between  the  rulers  or  the  ruling  caste  and  the  mass  of 
the  people.  Some  of  the  chiefs  are  blacker  than  the  majority,  others  again 
are  relatively  light  coloured.  In  regard  to  average  depth  of  tint  amongst  the 
various  tribes,  I  should  say  that  those  with  the  blackest  skins^  were  the 
A-lolo,  the  Atonga,  the  Awa-nkonde,  the  A-mambwe,  the  A-lungu,  perhaps 
the  Aba-bisa  and  the  A-senga.  I  have  seen  slaves  from  the  Upper  Luapula 
River,  and  from  the  still  more  distant  Lualaba,  who  were  so  very  black  as 
almost  to  approximate  in  tint  to  the  deepest  shade  given  by  Topinard,  No.  2 
{which  shade  however  I  believe  to  be  impossibly  black  and  not  actually  to 
be  found  on  the  skin  of  any  human  being  existing).  Some  of  the  Senga  and 
Ba-tumbuka  slaves  amongst  the  northern  Angoni  are  very  black  in  colour. 

The  lightest- tinted  tribe  is  probably  the  Yao.  A  good  many  of  the 
A-nyanja  are  light  tinted,  but  it  is  a  dirty  yellow,  which  suggests  ancient 
Bushman  -  Hottentot  intermixture,  and  is  often  associated  with  a  low  type 
of  face  and  a  squat  body.  Occasionally  a  light  -  coloured  Angoni  is  seen, 
which  is  no  doubt  due  to  his  being  of  a  more  or  less  Zulu  origin. 

As  in  all  other  negroes  and  dark-skinned  races,  the  skin  of  the  inner  part 
of  the  hands  and  the  sole  of  the  foot  is  a  pinkish-yellow.*  The  skin  of  the 
arm-pits  is  often  much  lighter  in  colour  than  the  rest  of  the  body.  Negro 
children  are  invariably  bom  with  skins  of  a  pinkish  yellow,  similar  in  colour 
to  that  on  the  hands  and  feet  of  the  adult.  The  colour  of  their  skin  darkens 
rapidly,  though  in  some  infants  more  rapidly  than  in  others.  Negroes  who 
are  clothed  from  their  youth  up,  and  lead  a  life  which  does  not  much  expose 
the  naked  body  to  the  air,  would  appear  to  have  skins  slightly  paler  in  tone 
than  those  of  the  average  naked  negroes. 

The  texture  of  the  skin  is  usually  coarse  and  rough  unless  kept  in  good 
condition  by  constant  washing  and  oiling.  Its  natural  oily  secretion  does  not 
seem  to  be  abundant,  to  judge  by  the  dry  scaly  appearance  of  the  skins  of 
men  who  from  one  cause  or  another  have  been  unable  to  have  recourse  to 

*  Each  tribe  however  constantly  offering  individual  exceptions  with  specially  light  colour. 

*  Apud  viros  incircumcisos,  glans  penis  colore  camoso  est ;  sed  glans  circumcisa,  ubi  exponitur, 
nigrescit. 


NATIVES   OF  BRITISH   CENTRAL  AFRICA       395 

rubbing  themselves  with  oil  or  fat.  At  the  same  time  they  perspire  easily 
and  freely,  and  the  pores  are  certainly  larger  than  in  Europeans.  The  most 
offensive  negro  smell  would  appear  to  be  connected  with  the  glands  under 
the  arm-pits,  which  exude  at  times  a  secretion  often  confounded  with  sweat, 
but  which  would  appear  to  me  to  be  of  a  different  character  and  more  oily 


A  MTONGA  MAN   (to  show  profile) 

in  composition.  I  cannot  assert  that  this  exudation  is  specially  connected 
with  the  sexual  functions,  or  with  any  particular  state  of  mind  or  body. 
Perhaps  when  the  negro  is  perspiring  heavily,  he  is  more  odorous  than  at 
other  times.  Yet  this  trait  varies  a  good  deal  in  individuals,  and  on  the 
whole  (though  not  altogether)  is  more  or  less  prominent  according  to  the 
degree  of  cleanliness  observed  by  frequent  baths.  In  the  clothed  negro  it  is 
sometimes  offensive  to  an  appalling  degree,  rendering  it  well  nigh  impossible 


396  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

to  remain  in  a  closed  room  with  him.     The  odour  is  certainly  stronger    in 
men  than  in  women. 

Except  in  cases  of  Xanthism  the  colour  of  the  iris  of  the  eye  is  black, 
vbrown,  or  very  dark  hazel.  In  some  individuals  the  sclerotic,  or  "white"  of 
the  eye,  is  yellow  and  clouded  ;  in  others  again  it  is  very  clear  and  white. 
The  clear  sclerotic  generally  accompanies  the  more  refined  type  of  feature, 
and  the  obverse  is  the  case  when  the  "white"  is  yellovv  and  murky.  The 
eyes  are  rather  deeply  set  than  otherwise.  I  have  not  seen  any  case  in 
which  they  were  prominent  or  d  fleur  de  tite.  Both  the  upper  and  under 
eyelids  are  occasionally  thick  and  prominent,  especially  in  the  dull,  heavy 
countenances  of  slaves,  but  in  smart  well-set-up  men  and  women  the  upj^er 
eyelid  is  often  covered  by  the  protuberance  of  the  skin  in  such  a  way  as 
gives  a  clear-cut,  sharp,  decided  look  to  a  face.  I  will  not  say  I  have  never 
seen  the  eyes  with  an  upward  turn  on  the  outer  side  suggestive  of  an  almond 
shaped  and  a  Mongoloid  look ;  but  such  cases  are  very  exceptional  and  rare 
— much  more  so  than  they  are  in  the  Congo  region,  where  I  have  occasionally- 
noticed  negroes  with  a  distinctly  Mongoloid  cast  of  countenance.  The  cheek 
bones  are  usually  prominent — in  some  cases  they  are  very  prominent,  though 
naturally  in  a  good-looking  face  their  development  is  less  marked.  The 
nose  is  almost  always  a  negro  nose — that  is  to  say  with  a  broad  depressed 
bridge  (depressed  in  the  malar  region),  a  snub  tip,  and  broad,  expanded 
nostrils.  The  average,  not  by  any  means  the  ugliest,  type  in  it  may  be 
observed  in  my  accompanying  drawing  of  the  head  of  an  Atonga  seen  in 
profile.  In  some  of  the  people  of  Itawa  I  have  noticed  noses  with  rather 
arched  bridges,  somewhat  Papuan  in  type,  the  arch  being  rather  over  the  tip 
than  at  the  beginning  of  the  bridge. 

There  is  never  any  prominence  of  the  brows  equal  to  what  is  seen  in  the 
Australian  man.  Still  on  the  whole  the  brow  is  fairly  prominent.  Yet  many 
of  the  women  and  some  of  the  men  exhibit  that  peculiar  bombi  forehead 
with  brows  depressed  over  the  nose  which  is  rather  well  illustrated  in  the 
portrait  of  a  young  Bushman  given  on  p.  53  of  Chapter  III.  The  lips  are 
usually  everted  and  very  large.  In  some  of  the  finer  types  there  is,  of  course, 
considerable  modification  in  this  feature,  though  the  thin  lip  seen  in  the 
European  or  the  Asiatic  is  never  found  amongst  them.  Some  .of  the  lips  are 
so  much  everted  that  a  considerable  amount  of  pink  skin  shows.  In  the  cases 
where  the  mouth  is  of  a  finer  design  and  the  lip  is  thinner  nothing  but  the 
black  skin  of  the  outer  part  of  the  lip  is  visible.^  The  teeth  are  uniformly 
excellent — rather  large -sized,  white,  and  regular.  I  have  never  noticed  any 
marked  projection  or  exceptional  size  of  the  canines,  not  even  as  much  as 
I  have  often  seen  in  Europeans ;  certainly  not  such  as  can  be  seen  in  the 
remarkable  Tasmanian  skull  at  the  Anthropological  Institute,*  where  the 
canines,  especially  of  the  upper  jaw,  are  prominent,  projecting,  and  slightly 
pointed. 

^  The  thick  everted  lip  of  the  negro  is  not,  in  my  opinion,  a  Simian  characteristic.  The  most  ape- 
like £Eices  in  existing  humanity  are  seen  amongst  the  Chinese  and  Annamites.  In  these  the  upper  lip 
is  long,  broad  and  rather  turned  in.  The  long  ape-like  upper  lip  is  not  infrequently  seen  amongst 
Europeans,  in  certain  Celtic  types.  I  imagine  that  when  the  negro  type  began  to  diverge  from  the 
original  human  ancestor  he  retained  his  long  Simian  lips,  and  he  got  into  the  habit  of  turning  them  inside 
out  in  order  to  expose  the  teeth  more  readily,  and  to  accommodate  the  inconveniently  long  lip  to  the 
decreasing  size  of  the  jaws  and  the  diminishing  prognathism. 

*  Happy  Tasmania,  to  have  possessed  the  most  ape-like  form  of  man !  Unhappy  Tasmania,  to 
have  been  so  ignorant  as  not  to  appreciate  your  privilege,  and  to  have  exterminated  in  your  wanton 
ignorance  this  priceless  survival ! 


NATIVES   OF  BRITISH  CENTRAL  AFRICA       397 

The  chin  is  rather  retreating  in  the  women,  but  occasionally  the  men  will 
have  fine  strong  chins,  though  strong  and  prominent  in  a  peculiar  way  by  a 
sharp  bulge  immediately  under  the  lower  lip,  a  bulge  which  is  clearly  scooped 
out  in  a  circular  form  on  either  side.  As  a  rule  there  is  a  decided  falling 
in  of  the  jaw  under  the  cheek  bones  while  the  jaw-bone  again  bulges  out  at  its 
angle  near  the  ear.  I  have  never  seen  a  continuously  firm  line  of  jaw,  and 
another  sign  equally  rare  or  non-existent  is  the  cleft  chin  which  is  often  seen 
in  Europeans.  The  most  prominent  points  of  a  negro's  face,  even  of  a  good  j 
type,  are  the  projecting  cheek  bones,  the  bulging  forehead,  the  broad  flat  nose, 
deep  and  expanded  nostrils,  the  everted  lips,  and  the  sharp,  rounded,  narrow ' 
chin. 

Almost  all  the  male  negroes  of  British  Central  Africa  grow  some  moustache. 
It  is  ordinarily  of  scattered,  thick,  bristly  hair,  but  sometimes  the  moustache 
hairs  at  the  side  are  rather  tightly  curled.  The  beard  is  generally  present 
but  often  reduced  to  a  long  tuft  on  the  chin.  In  some  cases,  however,  it  crosses 
from  ear  to  ear  (often  diminishing  or  falling  off*  in  the  depressed  portion  of  the 
jaw-bone  on  either  side  of  the  chin),  and  a  narrow  line  of  whiskers  (little  curled 
hairs)  is  also  present  in  exceptionally  hairy  men.  The  question  of  face  hair 
is  largely  one  of  cultivation,  or  no  cultivation.  Some  of  the  men  discourage 
hair  on  their  faces  and  pluck  out  th^  hairs  with  a  tweezer,  others  allow  them 
to  grow  unchecked,  and  never 
shave,  with  the  result  that  the 
face  hair  is  often  scattered 
and  weak  in  growth.  The 
negro  men  of  Central  Africa, 
as  of  other  parts  of  the  con- 
tinent, who  attempt  to  live 
like  Europeans  and  begin  by 
shaving  their  faces  regularly 
(instead  of  plucking  out  the 
hairs  as  the  savages  do),  can 
in  course  of  time  grow  beard, 
whiskers  and  moustache  not 
very  much  less  in  volume 
than  those  of  the  average 
European. 

In  some  of  the  Yao  a 
beard  of  considerable  length 
grows  from  the  chin,  but  this 
would  seem  to  hint  occasion- 
ally at  some  distant  inter- 
mixture with  the  Arab.  On 
the  other  hand,  the  Atonga, 
who  betray  in  their  history 
and  racial  type  no  trace  of 
intermixture  with  a  foreign 
race,  or  with  the  coastmen, 
often  possess  long,  pointed 
beards.  The  hair  of  the  beard 
has  less  tendency  to  curl  than 
that  of  the  head  or  body  a  yao  of  the  upper  shire 


398 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


The  colour  of  the  hair  on  the  head  and  face  is  invariably  black  in  adults, 
though  in  extreme  childhood  the  hair  of  head  and  body  is  distinctly  brownish, 
even  to  being  a  light  brown.  In  the  children  at  birth  and  for  a  little  time  after 
birth  the  hair  on  the  head  and  body  is  nearly  straight.  The  body-hair  in 
children  is  a  faintly  discernible  pale-coloured  fluff,  apparently  a  vestige  of  the 
body-hair  which  at  one  period  of  development,  antecedent  to  expulsion  from 
the  womb,  clothes  the  human  foetus  in  all  races.  It  seldom  lasts  on  the  negro 
child  for  many  weeks  after  birth. 

On  the  adult  man  body-hair  is  almost  always  present  when  not  plucked  out. 
Amongst  many  of  these  negroes  there  is  a  dislike  to  any  hair  on  the  body. 
That  on  the  chest,  arms  and  legs  is  plucked  out,  and  the  hair  of  the  arm-pits 
and  pubes  is  shaved,  or  also  plucked  out.  But  in  many  tribes  and  individuals 
no  check  is  put  on  the  growth  of  the  body-hair/v;;^t  is  then  most  abundant 
round  the  nipples  and  right  across  the  chest,  and  down  the  median  line  of  the 
stomach.  There  is  considerable  growth  of  hair  on  the  pubes,^  and  in  the 
arm-pits,  on  the  shins  of  the  legs  and,  in  a  lesser  degree,  on  the  forearms.  I 
do  not  ever  remember  to  have  seen  hair  growing  on  a  negro's  back,  as  may 
often  be  observed  on  the  backs  of  Europeans  and  sometimes  of  the  hairier  races 
of  Asiatics.  The  negro's  body-hair  is  usually  curled  semi-circular  in  growth,  but 
not  as  tightly  curled  as  the  hair  on  the  head.  Among  these  negroes  of  Central 
Africa,  as  among  almost  all  the  true  black  negroes,  the  hair  grows  evenly  over 
the  scalp  and  not  in  sparse  separate  tufts  as  in  the  Bushman-Hottentots.  This 
style  of  growth,  which  the  French  call  floconn^,  is  well  illustrated  in  the  photo- 
graph of  a  Bushman  boy  given  on  p.  53  of  this  book. 

The  ear  is  ordinarily  small,  rounded,  well  shaped,  and  set  far  back,  close  to 

the  head,  but  its  original  shape  is  often  much 
modified  by  the  various  fashions  which  are 
in  vogue  for  the  lengthening  of  the  ear-lobe. 
In  some  portions  of  British  Central  Africa, 
notably  among  the  Angoni-Zulus,  the  A-lungu, 
and  A-mambwe  (as  amongst  the  Masai  and 
other  Eastern  African  races)  a  hole  is  drilled 
in  the  lobe  of  the  ear,  through  which  a  small 
quill  or  reed  is  passed.  By  degrees  tlie  hole 
is  widened  by  the  introduction  of  larger  sub- 
stances till  at  last  the  lobe  hangs  down  in  a 
hideous  loop  on  to  the  shoulders. 

As  in  all  true  negroes  there  is  a  marked 
development  of  the  breasts  in  the  male. 
Pictures  and  photographs  of  beardless  men 
are  often  taken  for  representations  of  women 
owing  to  the  marked  swelling  of  the  breasts, 
and  their  slightly  pendulous  nature.  Some-  . 
times  it  has  occurred  even  to  myself  to  ask, 
looking  at  some  youth,  "  Is  it  a  man  or  a 
woman?" — so  woman-like  would  be  the  well -developed  mammce  which  yet 
seemed  inconsistent  with  the  very  straight  shoulders  and  small  hips.  But 
with  this  exception  there  is  nothing  dubious  about  the  manly  appearance  of  the 

^  In  Portuguese  Guinea,  or  that  portion  of  Africa  which  lies  between  Sierra  Leone  and  the  Gambia, 
there  is  a  race  which  possesses  such  an  extraordinary  growth  of  hair  on  the  pubes,  both  in  the  male 
and  female,  that  it  hangs  down  in  a  thick  mat  and  covers  the  pudenda. 


AN    ANGONI    FROM    MOMBERA's   COUNTRY 


NATIVES   OF   BRITISH  CENTRAL  AFRICA       399 


*'^ 


male  negro,  whose  virile  development  is  as  marked  as  it  is  in  the  man  of 

European  race. 

In  the  young  woman  who  has  not  borne  children  the  breasts  are  plump, 

but  are  set  rather  low  down  on  the  thorax  and  the  nipples  have  a  tendency 

to  turn  up.     As  soon  as  a  woman  has  borne  a  child  the  breasts  are  dragged 

down  and  become  two  ugly  leather  bags  in  appear- 
ance. This  change  is  much  aided  by  the  prevailing 
fashion  which  holds  such  a  thing  creditable,  if  not 
beautiful.  Many  women  flatten  their  breasts  by 
tying  a  band  tightly  round  their  chests.  In  some 
women  the  length  of  the  pendulous  breast  is  such 
that  it  can  be  turned  back  over  the  shoulder,  and 
the  child  can  be  suckled  when  tied  to  its  mother's 
back.  The  drawing  on  the  next  page  shows  this 
condition  of  the  breast  clearly.  Cases  of  umbilical 
hernia  are  very  common  and  begin  in  childhood 
from  various  causes.  Occasionally  the  protuberance 
at  the  navel  is  considerable,  resembling  the  curved 
neck  of  a  gourd. 

In  both  sexes  the  development  of  the  external 
sexual  organs  is  large — larger  than  in  the  European 
(white)  r^ce,  more  considerable  still  than  among 
the  Mongoloid  (yellow)  races  of^  Asia,  America, 
and  the  Pacific.^ 

Amongst  the  men  I  have  never  noticed  any 
cases  of  steatopygy.  The  women  have,  as  a  rule, 
well-developed  buttocks,  but  nothing  approaching 
the  extraordinary  appearance  so  characteristic  of 
the  Hottentot.  In  men  the  development  of  the 
buttocks  is  less  than  in  the  Europeans,  and   in 

children  it  is  extremely  small,  the  child  being  almost  straight  up  and  down.  ^ 
The  hands  and  feet  vary  a  good  deal  in  type. 
The  thumb  is  often  well  developed,  but  the  fingers  have  a  tendency  to  be 

stumpy.     I  have  never  seen  any  but  short  nails.     The  lines  in  the  palm  of  the 

hand  are  usually  few   and  simple,  but  are  very  deeply  marked  in  dark  colour. 

The  "  line  of  head  "  is  as  might  be  expected  usually  short  and  not  unfrequently 

is  missing.     Strange  to  say  there  is  very  often  a  "  line  of  fate  "  extending  right 

up  and  down  the  palm. 

^  Pudenda  muliebria  augentur  simili  sed  non  aequa  ratione  atque  in  simiis:  nam  simianim  et  cyno- 
cephalorum  labra  circum  vulvam  habent  multo  majora  quam  mulieres.  Praeterea  apud  simias  os  vulvte 
solum  a  tergo  ostenditur :  anus  alte  locatus  clunibus  non  celatur.  Hoc  modo  etiam  y^thiopissa  ex  Africa 
centrali  simiis  similis  est :  nam  pneter  labrorum  clitoridisc^ue  auctum,  os  vulvse  magis  quam  apud  mulieres 
Europxas  retro  dirigitur.  Mares  /Kthiopes  penem  eximia  magnitudine  habent ;  magis  ex  ratione  cyno- 
cephalorum  quam  simiarum :  nam  simiae  anthropoides  penem  non  perbrevem  s«d  tenuem  et  glande  minima 
atque  pneamta  habent.  In  hac  re  inter  multas  alias  indoles  prisca  in  hominibus  apparet,  necjue  in  simiis 
qu£e  aliter  evolvuntur.  In  hac  nudorum  hominum  terra  penis  parvus  rarus  est:  in  Afnca  Centrali, 
pncsertim  apud  Nyasai  septentrionalis  indigcnas  (Wankonde),  vir  mediocri  corpore  grande  membrum 
virile  plerumque  habet.  Membrum  quiescens  fere  sex  uncias  longum,  excitatum  usque  ad  novem  vel 
decem  uncias  porrigitur.     Pr%putium  natura  pr^longum  est :  multae  tribus  igitur  circumcisione  utuntur. 

'  One  of  the  chief  points  in  which  the  anthropoid  apes  differ  from  man  is  in  the  poor  development  of 
the  gluteal  muscles.  Sir  Richard  Owen  styled  them  *'bird-rumped"  in  consequence  of  this  want  of 
posterior  development,  a  development  which  is  to  some  extent  the  result  of  the  upright  position,  though 
that  the  remote  ancestors  of  man  had  a  tendency  to  fleshy  protu Iterances  on  either  side  of  the  sacnim  is 
shown  in  the  swollen  callosities  on  monkeys'  rumps. 


BOY  WITH  VVELL-DKV ELOPED  BREASTS 


400 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


The  commonest  type  of  foot  is  one  which  is  well  illustrated  in  the  accom- 
panying illustration  of  Wankonde  men,  in  which  the  great  toe  is  rather  short 
and  much  on  a  level  with  the  other  toes.  Sometimes  the  toes  are  a  good  deal 
spread  out,  and  there  is  certainly  a  tendency  for  the  foot  to  assume  slightly 
simian  characteristics  by  the  tread  being  a  good  deal  pressed  on  the  outer  side 
of  the  foot  while  the  instep  inside  is  somewhat  incurved,  and  the  wide-spread 


A  YOUNG   MOTHER    (SHOWING   PENDENT   BREASTS) 


toes  slant  somewhat  inwards.  The  shins  are  slightly  bowed.  The  development 
of  calf  varies  a  good  deal.  Amongst  the  natives  inhabiting  mountains  it  is  as 
well  developed  as  in  Europeans.  Elsewhere  in  the  plains  it  is  sometimes 
rather  sparse. 

As  regards  height :  the  average  height  of  the  men  is  about  5  ft.  6  in.  The 
tallest  male  measured  was  6  ft.  3  in. ;  the  shortest,  5  ft.  Tall  men  of  5  ft.  10  in. 
to  6  ft.  are  very  common  especially  among  the  Wankonde,  Yao,  and  Angoni. 
The  average  height  of  the  women  would  be  about  5  feet. 

The  average  of  measurements  taken  of  a  number  of  well-grown  males 
(5  ft.  8  in.  in  height)  gave  the  following  results : — Round  the  chest,  a  circum- 
ference  of    34I   inches ;    round   the   waist,  29^   inches ;    round   the   buttocks, 


WANKONDE   MEN 


26 


NATIVES  OF  BRITISH   CENTRAL  AFRICA       403 

33^  inches;  thickest  part  of  thigh,  i8J;  length  of  arm  from  shoulder  to  tip 
of  second  finger,  32^  inches ;  from  chin  to  pubes,  26|  inches ;  pubes  to  ankle- 
bone,  3ii  inches ;  fork  of  legs  to  heel,  32!  inches ;  wrist  to  end  of  second  finger, 
8^  inches;  first  joint  of  thumb  to  tip,   ij  inch;  ankle-bone  to 
tip  of  big  toe,  8  inches. 

In  women  of  an  average  height  of  5  ft.  the  measurement 
round  the  buttocks  ranged  from  35  J  in.  to  37^.  The  women  have 
thumbs  of  slightly  smaller  proportionate  length  than  those  of 
the  males. 

As  regards  the  quality  of  the  voice  in  these  Central  African 
negroes,  although  there  is  never  any  marked  development  of 
"  Adam's  Apple "  in  the  throat  the  men  have  full,  deep,  virile- 
sounding  voices ;  much  deeper  and  more  manly  in  tone  than  is 
the  case  with  the  natives  of  India.  In  singing,  the  commonest 
kind  of  men's  voices  is  tenor  and  after  tenor,  baritone.  A  bass 
voice  is  rare.  When  untrained  by  Europeans  their  singing  is 
nasal  and  they  are  much  given  to  using  the  falsetto  voice. 

The   women's   voices    are    usually   low   and    melodious,   not 
differing  ordinarily  very  much  in  tone  from  those  of  European 
women.     The   laugh   of  an  African   man   is  deep-chested  and 
hearty,  and  does  one  good  to  hear ;  but  the  boys  and  youths  and       ^  munkonde 
the  full-grown  girls  can  develop  under  European  influence  what    /"^h"  J^hJ"  on^) 
is  known  as  the  "  mission  giggle,"  as  it  is  peculiarly  characteristic 
of  the  young  people  attached  to  the  mission  schools.     I  suppose  it  arises  from 
the  constant  desire  to  laugh  and  a  feeling  that  such  merriment  is  unseemly 
and  should  be  suppressed. 

These  negroes,  considering  their  almost  absolute  nudity  in  the  savage  state, 
bear  cold  remarkably  well  up  to  a  certain  point  Beyond  that  point,  especially 
if  the  cold  be  accompanied  by  wet,  they  collapse  with  such  suddenness  as 
actually  to  be  in  danger  of  dying  from  cold.  But  they  will  reside  for  weeks  on 
the  top  of  high  mountains  and  plateaux  like  Mlanje  where  the  temperature 
may  be  down  to  40"*  in  the  daytime,  and  29°  at  night,  and  yet  wear  nothing  but 
the  usual  loin  cloth  in  the  daytime,  and  consider  themselves  sufficiently 
shielded  by  a  covering  of  thin  calico  at  night  provided  they  can  light  a  fire 
and  go  to  sleep  with  their  feet  towards  the  blaze.  In  the  Zambezi  Valley  and 
on  the  Lower  Shire,  where  the  climate  is  hottest  they  are  apparently  more 
sensitive  to  night  chills.  In  this  region  they  weave  a  curious  bag  or  case  of 
matting  which  is  called  "mfumba."  They  creep  into  this  at  night  and  look 
exactly  like  so  many  bales  done  up  in  matting. 

Exposure  to  the  sun,  when  not  combined  with  severe  fatigue  and  thirst,  does 
them  no  harm  whatever. 

Their  skulls  are  very  thick  and  though  the  hair  is  often  shaved  for  cleanli- 
ness they  require  no  head-covering  to  break  the  force  of  the  sun's  rays. 
Nevertheless  here  again,  in  the  regions  bordering  on  the  Zambezi  from  copying 
European  habits  the  natives  have  become  more  sensitive  to  the  want  of  a 
head  covering,  and  wear  large  broad-brimmed  straw  hats  of  native  manufacture. 
Muhammadanised  negroes  use  the  small  white  skull-cap  characteristic  of  the 
Arab,  round  which  they  often  wind  a  piece  of  cloth  as  a  turban.  After  a  time 
these  people  get  used  to  a  head-covering  and  do  not  like  to  dispense  with  it. 

Central  African  negroes  are  very  thirsty  people  and  scarcely  suffer  less  than 
Europeans  in  travelling  long  distances  on  foot  without  frequent  drinking.     A 


404  BRITISH   CENTRAL   AFRICA 

thirst  of  several  hours  under  a  broiling  sun,  combined  with  a  long  march  and  a 
heavy  load  to  carry  will  soon  make  them  "  sun-sick,"  but  I  have  never  known 
a  case  of  actual  sunstroke,  or  any  fatality  to  arise  from  exposure  to  the  sun's 
rays. 

Their  strength,  speed  and  endurance  vary  somewhat  between  tribe  and 
tribe,  some  peoples  being  by  inherited  use  and  custom  able  to  travel  long 
distances  and  carry  heavy  loads,  while  others  are  bad  walkers  or  bad  climbers 
and  of  little  use  as  porters.  As  a  rule,  however,  the  native  is  a  good  walker 
and  without  a  load  can  travel  easily  thirty  miles  a  day  on  foot.  With  a  load  of 
45  lbs.  he  can  do  a  steady  twenty  miles  a  day  when  in  good  condition.  The 
Wanyamwezi  carriers  of  East  Central  Africa  are  celebrated  for  being  able  to 
carry  loads  of  1 00  lbs.  and  to  keep  on  the  march  at  a  good  rate  of  speed  for 
twenty  to  twenty-five  miles  a  day.  No  race  that  I  know  of  within  the  limits 
of  British  Central  Africa  can  do  as  much.  The  Wa-yao  are  the  best  carriers 
we  possess.  They  can  manage  a  load  of  from  50  to  55  lbs.  with  ease ;  but  the 
A-nyanja  will  scarcely  carry  any  single  load  that  weighs  more  than  45  lbs. 
The  Wankonde  people  at  the  north  end  of  Lake  Nyasa  only  quite  recently 
averred  that  they  could  carry  no  loads  at  all ;  and  certainly  those  amongst 
them  who  volunteered  as  carriers  for  my  expedition  to  Tanganyika  in  1889, 
though  they  seemingly  started  with  the  best  intentions,  so  completely  went  to 
pieces  after  the  first  few  days  of  porterage  that  in  pity  I  had  to  relieve  them  of 
their  loads.  The  Atonga  are  good  carriers  though  not  so  good  as  the  Yao. 
They  are  celebrated,  however,  for  their  confidence  in  the  white  man  and  their 
willingness  to  accompany  him  on  journeys  of  very  great  length.  The  Makua 
and  Alolo  make  excellent  carriers.  They  probably  rival  the  Yao  in  r^^rd  to 
the  weight  of  loads  they  will  cheerfully  bear  (50  to  60  lbs.)  and  the  speed  at 
which  they  will  travel  (twenty  miles  a  day).  It  is  rare  to  find  even  a  native 
brought  up  in  the  plains  who  cannot  climb  mountains  better  than  a  white  man, 
but  those  tribes  who  dwell  in  the  hills  are  veritable  goats  in  agility  and  sureness 
of  foot  In  ascending  the  steep  face  of  a  mountain  like  Mlanje  it  is  marvellous 
to  see  native  porters  with  a  box  of  50  lbs.  weight  on  their  heads  crawling  up 
the  face  of  a  rock  like  so  many  cats  and  not  dropping  their  loads,  which  they 
will  hold  on  with  one  hand  while  with  the  other  they  clutch  at  any  little 
projection  which  may  assist  them,  or  use  a  long  wand  like  a  small  alpenstock. 
They  assist  themselves  a  good  deal  with  their  slightly  prehensile  big  toe  and 
the  foot  gets  a  better  grasp  of  a  rounded  surface  than  it  does  with  the  European  ^ 
who  is  booted. 

The  women  have  considerable  muscular  development  owing  to  the  hard 
work  to  which  they  are  put  from  childhood.  The  average  muscular  development 
in  the  men  is  good ;  their  figures  are  well  knit  and  harmonious  in  outline.  As 
regards  pace  in  running  they  can  outrun  most  Europeans  and  almost  any  native 
of  India  that  has  yet  competed  with  them.  They  can  likewise  jump  well. 
Here  again  the  Wa-yao  excel  most  of  the  other  tribes.  On  the  other  hand  in 
such  experiments  as  we  have  made  we  have  found  that  they  could  neither 
hurl  a  spear  nor  shoot  an  arrow  as  well  as  an  average  untrained  European. 
Nor  are  they,  as  a  rule,  good  at  throwing  ;  yet,  when  cricket  is  introduced 
they  soon  pick  up  the  idea  of  bowling. 

They  are  good  acrobats.  Here,  again,  the  Wa-yao  surpass  the  others.  At 
our  military  sports  or  other  great  gatherings  of  this  description  Yao,  Atonga, 
Makua,  and  Mambwe  will  turn  somersaults,  walk  on  their  hands,  stand  on  their 

^  At  the  same  time  the  English  seaman  can  probably  climb  belter  than  any  native. 


NATIVES  OF  BRITISH   CENTRAL  AFRICA       405 

heads,  and  perform  some  very  passable  clowning.  The  natives  dwelling  in  the 
vicinities  .of  lakes  or  rivers  almost  invariably  swim  from  childhood.  They  can 
swim  long  distances  without  becoming  unduly  exhausted.  When  swimming  at 
great  speed  they  proceed  hand  over  hand,  otherwise  they  move  their  arms  and 
legs  simultaneously. 

Briefly,  it  must  be  said  in  regard  to  exercises  of  the  body  there  is  almost 
nothing  that  the  Central  African  negro  will  not  rapidly  learn.  In  no  exercise  of 
skill  or  speed  that  we  have  yet  tried  (whether  it  be  native  or  foreign)  is  the 


SKETCH  OF  MUSCULAR  DEVELOPMENT  IN  A  YAO 


4o6  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

negro  able  to  excel  the  better  type  of  white  man,  but  it  is  conceivable  that  with 
a  few  generations  of  careful  physical  training  he  may  be  able  to  perform  some 
physical  feats  better  than  the  European. 

Their  sight  is  excellent  In  this  respect  they  are  much  superior  to  the 
average  European.  Cases  of  myopia  are  very  rare,  if  indeed  they  exist  at  all. 
Their  sense  of  hearing  is  probably  better  than  ours,  but  on  the  other  hand  I 
should  think  that  we  had  an  acuter  sense  of  smell,  certainly  of  taste  and 
probably  also  of  touch. 

As  regards  the  postures  and  movements  of  the  body,  the  native  is  able  to 
put  himself  into  positions  almost  impossible  to  a  European  or,  at  any  rate,  very 
uncomfortable.  Thus,  when  he  is  tired  of  standing  on  both  legs,  he  will  rest 
himself  by  bending  one  leg  and  placing  the  foot  against  the  inside  of  the  knee 
of  the  other  leg.  This  is  a  position  often  assumed  by  the  natives  of  all  Tropical 
Africa,  and  is  very  well  illustrated  in  Dr.  Schweinfurth's  celebrated  book.^ 
Sitting  down,  the  native  will  squat  on  his  heels  and  rump,  exactly  like  a  baboon. 
It  is  almost  impossible  for  a  European  to  do  this.  They  can  also  sit  with 
crossed  legs  as  is  done  by  Asiatics,  but  this  is  not  a  posture  much  affected 
except  by  the  Muhammadanised,  or  by  those  who  are  mixed  with  Arab  blood. 
The  favourite  position  in  sleeping  is  to  lie  flat  on  the  stomach  with  the  forehead 
resting  on  the  folded  arms.  They  will  also  occasionally  lie  on  the  back  or  on 
the  side,  and  if  they  are  suffering  from  cold  and  endeavouring  to  cover  their 
bodies  with  a  small  piece  of  cloth  they  can  curl  themselves  up  with  the  knees 
almost  touching  the  chin. 

In  micturition  the  position  is  a  standing  one  except  where  Muhammadanism 
has  introduced  a  squatting  posture,  which  is  of  course  that  assumed  by  the 
women.  In  parturition  it  is  said  that  the  women  ordinarily  stand  upright, 
often  holding  on  to  a  beam  or  supported  under  the  arm-pits  by  other  women. 

The  body  is  well  balanced  and  upright  in  walking,  and  in  fact  their  carriage 
is  singularly  erect  and  often  very  graceful.  This  applies  to  both  sexes  and 
arises  to  some  extent  from  the  custom  of  balancing  loads  on  the  head.  It 
is  rare  to  see  a  negro  in  ordinary  good  health  with  bowed  shoulders  and  a 
convex  curve  to  the  back.  Perhaps,  on  the  whole,  the  tendency  as  regards  the 
position  of  the  toes  in  walking  is  slightly  inwards  and  in  some  tribes  of  a 
lower  physical  type  the  weight  of  the  body  is  "often  borne  on  the  outer  edge 
of  the  foot  and  heel  giving  an  inward  twist  to  the  lines  of  the  toes. 

Undoubtedly  the  favourite  mode  of  carrying  things  of  any  weight  is  on 
the  head  where  they  are  kept  in  position  by  the  left  hand.  They  seem  to 
object  to  carrying  loads  on  the  shoulders  or  back  even  if  the  load  itself  is 
fixed  to  a  pole  and  the  other  end  of  the  pole  is  borne  by  another  porter.  This 
dislike,  however,  is  lessening  now  by  the  necessity  for  transporting  loads  which 
are  beyond  one  man's  endurance,  and  still  more  by  the  increasing  use  of  the 
"machilla"  or  hammock,  a  travelling  conveyance  slung  on  a  long  bamboo 
pole  which  pole  is  borne  on  the  shoulders  of  two  or  four  men,  as  the  case  may 
be,  walking  in  single  file.  The  use  of  the  machilla,  however,  is  a  quite  recent 
institution  except  in  those  lands  bordering  the  Zambezi.  When  Europeans 
first  came  to  British  Central  Africa  the  natives  disliked  carrying  them  in  this 
way,  though  they  were  willing  on  occasions  to  deal  with  them  as  they  would 
with  their  own  chiefs,  by  bearing  them  for  short  distances  on  their  shoulders, 
in  the  position  in  which  the  unfortunate  Sindbad  had  to  carry  the  "  Old  Man 
of  the  Sea."     Even  now,  in  the  northern  part  of  British  Central  Africa  it  is 

*  Heart  of  Africa, 


NATIVES  OF  BRITISH   CENTRAL  AFRICA 


407 


customary  for  the  chief  to  travel  in  this  fashion,  and  it  is  a  means  of  pro- 
gression I  have  frequently  made  use  of  myself  with  great  advantage  when 
traversing  marshes  or  thick  grass  jungle. 

Various  positions  and  gestures  are  used  in  salutation.  In  the  southern  part 
of  British  Central  Africa  the  natives  kneel  and  clap  their  hands.  In  the 
countries  bordering  on  some  of  the  Portuguese  possessions  and  in  Makualand, 
the  natives  clap  their  hands  and  simultaneously  scrape  their  feet  backwards 
along  the  ground,  one  foot  at  a  time.  In  the  northern  districts  of  Lake 
Nyasa  and  thence  westward,  the 
position  in  salutation  is  most 
extraordinary,  especially  if  it  is 
an  inferior  saluting  a  superior. 
The  man  who  is  greeting  you 
will  throw  himself  on  his  stomach 
and  smack  himself  violently  on 
the  hinder  parts.  Nearly  every- 
where the  salutation  of  the 
women  differs  from  that  of  the 
men  and  is  generally  confined 
to  kneeling  down  with  the  back 
held  erectly  whilst  the  hands  are 
placed  over  the  knees.  In  excep- 
tional circumstances,  however, 
the  women  will  positively  wallow 
at  the  man's  feet  and  endeavour 
to  place  his  foot  on  their  necks. 
This  also  is  a  posture  occasion- 
ally assumed  by  suppliants  of 
the  other  sex  or  by  prisoners 
abjectly  entreating  for  pardon. 
From  this  gesture  arises  the 
well-known  phrase  indicative  of 
absolute  submission,  "To  catch 
the  leg,"  the  idea  being  that  the 
suppliant  endeavours  to  seize  the 
leg  of  the  great  personage  so 
that  he  may  place  the  foot  on 
his  neck.  In  our  various  wars, 
whenever  the  defeated  chief  has 
sought  for  peace  he  has  always  sent  in  a  message  that  he  wishes  to  '*  catch 
the  Queen's  leg." 

As  regards  physiognomy,  the  expression  of  the  negro's  face  is  somewhat 
stolid  and  there  is  not  nearly  as  much  play  of  emotion  in  his  features  as  there  is 
with  the  European.  I  am  afraid  the  preponderant  expression  is  a  sulky  one 
though  that  arises  more  because  the  coarse  heavy  features  express  sulkiness 
to  our  ideas  than  because  the  man  intends  to  look  sullen.  In  reality  they  are 
almost  always  of  cheerful  disposition  and  even  when  all  the  surrounding 
circumstances  are  most  gloomy  it  is  easy  to  provoke  a  laugh ;  and  as  already 
recorded,  they  laugh  well ;  and  laughter  lights  up  their  faces  to  advantage 
making  them  quite  like  a  man  and  a  brother.  They  will  somewhat  readily 
shed   tears   either  for  pain  or  for  sorrow.     As  regards  psychology  there  are 


A   YAO  WOMAN 


4o8  BRITISH   CENTRAL   AFRICA 

tribes  from  the  very  far  interior — those  about  the  Upper  Luapula  and  the 
Luangwa  Valley — who  really  seem  to  be  of  slow  and  brutish  understanding,  as 
a  tribal  characteristic,  and  there  may  also  be  exceptionally  stupid  individuals  in 
the  cleverest  tribes ;  still,  taken  as  a  whole,  I  think  it  must  be  admitted  that 
the  average  negro  of  British  Central  Africa  is  not  a  bom  fool.  His  mental 
powers  are  not  much  developed  by  native  training,  but  I  am  certain  that 
he  has  in  him  possibilities  in  the  present  generation  as  great  as  those  of 
the  average  Indian ;  and  there  is  really  no  saying  what  he  may  come  to 
after  several  generations  of  education.  I  think  it  is  truly  remarkable  the  way 
in  which  a  little  savage  boy  can  be  put  to  school  and  taught  to  read  in  a 
few  months  and  subsequently  become  a  skilful  printer  or  telegraph  clerk,  or 
even  book-keeper.  The  little  boys  are  much  sharper  and  shrewder  than  the 
grown-up  male.  When  the  youth  arrives  at  puberty  there  is  undoubtedly 
the  tendency  towards  an  arrested  development  of  the  mind.  At  this  critical 
period  many  bright  and  shining  examples  fall  off  into  disappointing  nullity. 
As  might  be  imagined,  the  concentration  of  their  thoughts  on  sexual  inter- 
course is  answerable  for  this  falling  away. 

This  is  the  negro's  great  weakness.  Nature  has  probably  endowed  him 
with  more  than  the  usual  genetic  faculty.  After  all,  to  these  people  almost 
without  arts  and  sciences  and  the  refined  pleasures  of  the  senses,  the  only 
acute  enjoyment  offered  them  by  nature  is  sexual  intercourse.  Yet  the  negro 
is  very  rarely  knowingly  indecent  or  addicted  to  lubricity.  In  this  land  of 
nudity  which  I  have  known  for  seven  years,  I  do  not  remember  once  having 
seen  an  indecent  gesture  on  the  part  of  either  man  or  woman  and  only 
very  rarely  (and  that  not  amongst  unspoilt  savages)  in  the  case  of  that  most 
shameless  member  of  the  community — the  little  boy.  An  exception  must 
be  made  to  this  statement  where  the  native  dances  are  concerned,  and  yet 
here,  also,  the  statement  is  really  equally  true,  for  although  most  tribes  have 
initiation  ceremonies  or  dances  which  are  indecent  to  our  eyes  since  they 
consist  of  very  immodest  gestures  and  actions,  they  can  scarcely  be  called 
wantonly  indecent,  because  they  almost  constitute  a  religious  ceremony  and  are 
performed  by  the  negroes  with  a  certain  amount  of  seriousness.  These  dances 
are  never  thrust  on  the  notice  of  the  European ;  it  is  with  the  greatest 
reluctance  that  they  can  be  brought  to  perform  in  his  presence.  Indeed  in 
many  cases  tribes  will  stoutly  deny  the  existence  of  any  such  dances  amongst 
them,  and  as  to  their  initiation  ceremonies,  I  believe  I  am  right  in  saying 
that  they  have  never  yet  been  witnessed  by  a  European,  that  is  to  say  any 
portion  of  them  that  may  be  indecent  or  coarse.  Our  only  knowledge  is 
derived  from  the  more  or  less  trustworthy  accounts  of  educated  natives.  So 
far  as  I  know,  the  only  dance  of  a  really  indecent  nature  which  is  indigenous 
to  Central  Africa  and  has  not  been  introduced  by  low  caste  Europeans  or 
Arabs,  is  one  which  represented  originally  the  act  of  coition,  but  it  is  so 
altered  to  a  stereotyped  formula  that  its  exact  purport  is  not  obvious  until 
explained  somewhat  shyly  by  the  natives.^ 

*  Nevertheless,  it  is  reported  to  me  that  after  these  dances  (especially  where  a  large  quantity  of 
native  beer  has  been  drunk)  orgies  of  what  are  conventionally  called  a  *' shameful"  character  ensue. 
These,  however,  are  seriously  entered  upon  at  certain  seasons  of  the  year  just  as  they  are  at  fairs  in 
Egypt,  a  custom  which  has  been  handed  down  from  remote  antiquity  through  different  forms  of  religion 
and  under  many  different  practices,  but  originating  undoubtedly  in  the  worship  of  the  pha//us^  as  a  symbol 
of  creative  power.  It  may  safely  be  asserted  that  the  negro  race  in  Central  Africa  is  much  more  truly  modest, 
is  much  more  free  from  real  vice  than  are  most  European  nations.  It  is  absurd  to  call  misuse  or  irregularity 
of  sexual  intercourse  **vice."     It-  may  be  wrong,  it  may  be  inexpedient,  it  may  conflict  with  the  best 


NATIVES   OF  BRITISH   CENTRAL  AFRICA       409 

ETHNOLOGY 

In  regard  to  initiation  ceremonies.  These  are  more  or  less  connected  with 
sexual  matters  and  with  the  arrival  at  or  approach  to  the  age  of  puberty  on  the 
part  of  the  boy  or  girl.  In  certain  characteristics  they  are  common  to  the 
greater  part  of  Pagan  Tropical  Africa.  Customs  met  with  on  the  Gold  Coast 
may  be  recognised  again  in  Nyasaland  or  among  the  Zulus.  Yet  although 
agreeing  upon  certain  general  principles  there  is  a  considerable  difference  in 
detail  even  amongst  the  tribes  of  British  Central  Africa.  In  some  races,  how- 
ever, the  tribe  being  constantly  harried  by  slave  raids  or  civil  wars  or  other 
disturbing  conditions,  initiation  ceremonies,  like  other  customs,  may  lapse  and 
almost  disappear.^  It  is  said  that  the  following  customs  are  observed  by  the 
Wa-yao  in  the  initiation  of  boys : — Like  most  ceremonies  it  begins  by  a  dance 
which  takes  place  in  a  clearing  in  the  uninhabited  woodland  at  or  near  the 
place  where  the  youths,  under  the  direction  of  their  preceptors  (one  or  more 
elderly  men),  have  run  up  low  shelters  made  of  branches,  bamboos  and  grass 
thatch.  The  dance  with  intervals  for  eating  and  sleeping  lasts  perhaps  three 
days.  It  is  said  to  be  of  a  slightly  obscene  character.  Usually  towards 
the  end  of  the  dance  the  old  man  who  is  to  circumcise  takes  the  boys  aside  one 
by  one;  arrangements  are  then  made  for  their  circumcision  and  they  are  suddenly 
told  to  look  at  a  strange  figure  in  the  sky ;  whilst  their  gaze  is  thus  diverted  the 
act  is  smartly  performed.  "The  boys  cry  a  great  deal,"  I  was  informed,  but 
a  few  days'  rest  in  the  grass  hut  and  the  application  of  certain  astringent  reme- 
dies soon  heal  the  wound.  Much  good  advice  is  said  to  be  given  to  the  boys 
by  these  elderly  instructors,  but  there  is  also  much  loose  talk  and  the  boys 
are  thoroughly  enlightened  as  to  sexual  relations.  They  are  given  (by  their 
guardian  or  sponsor,^  generally,  who  usually  sees  them  through  the  ceremonies) 
a  new  name  and  the  appellation  they  have  hitherto  borne  is  absolutely  discarded. 
It  must  never  be  again  used  and  to  call  a  youth  who  has  been  initiated  by  the 
name  of  his  childhood  is  an  unpardonable  offence.  Access  to  the  place  where 
the  initiatory  ceremonies  are  taking  place  is  strictly  forbidden  to  all  not 
concerned  therewith.  The  boys  are  armed  (as  on  the  Congo)  with  long  sticks 
and  will  mercilessly  beat  any  stranger  who  invades  the  precincts.  About  a 
month  to  six  weeks  usually  elapse  before  the  boys  issue  from  their  hiding-place 
and  return  to  their  homes.  Their  mothers  prepare  food  for  them  during  their 
seclusion  and  place  it  usually  at  the  place  where  the  public  path  divides  from 
the  trodden  track  leading  to  the  "  lodge."     There  is  no  doubt  that  much  good 

interests  of  the  community  and  require  control  and  restriction  ;  but  it  is  not  a  **  vice."  And  in  this  sense 
the  negro  is  very  rarely  vicious  after  he  has  attained  to  the  age  of  puberty.  He  is  only  more  or  less 
uxorious.  (Here,  again,  to  give  a  truthful  picture  it  must  be  noted  that  the  children  are  vicious,  as 
they  are  amongst  most  races  of  mankind,  the  boys  outrageously  so.  A  medical  missionary  who  was 
at  work  for  some  time  on  the  west  coast  of  Lake  Nyasa  gave  me  information  concerning  the  depra\4ty 
prevalent  among  the  young  boys  in  the  Atonga  tribe  of  a  character  not  even  to  be  expressed  in  obscure 
Latin.  These  statements  might  be  applied  with  almost  equal  exactitude  to  boys  and  youths  in  many  other 
parls  of  Africa  as  almost  any  missionary  who  thoroughly  understands  the  native  character  would  know.) 

As  regards  the  little  girls  over  nearly  the  whole  <3f  British  Central  Africa  chastity  before  puberty  is 
an  unknown  condition.  (Except  perhaps  among  the  A-nyanja.)  Before  a  girl  is  become  a  woman 
(that  is  to  say  before  she  is  able  to  conceive)  it  is  a  matter  of  absolute  indifference  what  she  does  and 
scarcely  any  girl  remains  a  virgin  after  about  five  years  of  age.  Even  where  betrothed  at  birth,  as 
is  often  the  case,  or  at  a  few  months  old,  she  will  go  to  the  mmily  of  her  future  husband  when  she 
is  four  or  five  years  of  age  and  although  she  will  not  formally  cohabit  with  him  till  she  has  reached 
the  age  of  puberty,  it  constantly  happens  that  she  is  deflowered  by  him  long  before  that  age  is 
attained. 

*  There  are  said  to  be  no  initiation  ceremonies  for  the  boys  among  the  A-nyanja  or  Atonga. 

'  Often  an  uncle ;  someone  chosen  at  the  birth  of  the  child  by  the  father. 


4IO  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

advice  is  given  to  the  boys  during  this  initiation :  they  are  warned  against 
selfishness  specially,  are  instructed  in  the  way  to  return  polite  answers  to  their 
elders,  in  the  traditions  of  the  tribes,  in  their  duties  towards  the  community  and 
chief,  and  often  in  special  subjects  such  as  the  augury  of  favourable  conditions 
of  travel,  methods  of  warfare,  and  religious  beliefs  connected  with  the  worship 
and  propitiation  of  ancestral  spirits.^ 

As  to  the  initiation  ceremonies  ^  for  the  girls  among  the  Wa-yao  they  are 
stated  to  be  as  follows.  When  there  are  a  number  of  girl  children  in  a  village 
or  collection  of  villages  who  have  reached  an  age  of  from  eight  to  eleven  years 
they  are  taken  away  to  the  bush  by  elderly  women  and  are  lodged  there  in 
shelters  of  grass  and  branches  much  as  I  have  described  in  regard  to  the  boys. 
The  ceremony  usually  begins  with  the  new  moon  and  lasts  for  the  lunar  month. 
One  old  woman  presides  over  the  other  instructresses,  who  is  called  the  "  cook 
of  the  initiation,"  and  who  receives  a  fee  of  about  four  yards  of  cloth  for  each 
girl  initiated.  A  huge  amount  of  corn  has  been  pounded  and  flour  (utandi) 
prepared  beforehand  ready  to  feed  the  girls  during  their  seclusion.  The 
children  are  instructed  in  household  duties,  in  their  obligations  to  their  future 
husbands,  in  the  principles  of  good  behaviour  (which  includes  injunctions 
against  loud-tongued  quarrelling).  The  marriage  question  is  thoroughly  ex- 
plained and  warning  is  given  that  unfaithfulness  to  the  marriage  tie  may  result 
in  death  at  the  hands  of  the  husband.  The  girls'  heads  are  shaved  and  they 
are  anointed  with  various  "  medicines  "  and  rubbed  with  oil.  Miniature  house 
roofs  are  made  and  each  girl  has  to  carry  one  on  her  head  indicating  that 
she  is  the  support  of  the  home.  Then  follows  (it  is  said)  a  forcible  vagitue 
dilatatio^  by  mechanical  means,  an  operation  which  the  girls  are  enjoined  to 
bear  bravely.  At  the  same  time  they  are  told  that  it  must  be  followed  by 
cohabitation  with  a  man.  This  is  regarded  by  the  Yao  as  a  necessity  to  render 
the  girl  marriageable  before  the  age  of  puberty.  The  girls  and  their  mothers 
believe  that  if  after  these  initiation  ceremonies  nisi  cum  mare  coitus  fiet  they 
will  die  or  at  any  rate  will  not  bear  children  when  eventually  married.  Pater 
puellae  virum  robustum  (saepe  attamen  senem)  legit  atque  ei  pecuniam  dat  ut 
puellae  virginitatem  adimat.  Hoc  ante  pubertatem  fieri  necesse,  ne  coitum 
conceptib  sequatur. 

There  are  no  such  proceedings  amongst  the  A-nyanja  though  Dr.  Cross 
hints  that  something  of  the  kind  may  obtain  among  the  Wankonde.  The 
A-nyanja,  probably  the  Atonga  and  most  of  the  other  races  west  of 
Lake  Nyasa  hold  but  simple  initiation  ceremonies  among  the  girls — they 
only  take  place  after  puberty  is  reached,  and  last  for  a  day  or  so.  The  young 
maidens  proceed  to  a  cleared  place  outside  the  village  where  they  recline 
upon  dry  grass.  No  man  is  allowed  to  approach  this  college  of  women  and 
the  approaches  thereto  are  carefully  guarded  by  matrons,  while  other  married 
women  proceed  to  the  instruction  of  the  girls  not  only  in  sexual  matters 
but  in  the  management  of  the  home  and  all  other  matters  concerning  the 
woman's  life  and  work. 

Following  on  this  initiation  is  a  dance,  of  course — a  dance  in  which  both 
sexes  join.  Men  dress  themselves  up  in  masks  and  skins  and  romp  with 
the  initiated  girls  rather  roughly  but  with  no  immodesty,  and  after  the  dance 
is  over  the  girls  are  taken  back  to  their  homes  by  the  matrons  who  are 
careful  to  see  that  they  behave  themselves  with  propriety. 

^  Under  this  last  head  but  little  instruction  may  be  given  now,  as  so  many  of  the  Yaos  affect  Muham- 
madanism.  ^  Unyago  in  Chi-yao.  '  Aliquando  clitoride  simul  ex^isa^.^ 


NATIVES  OF  BRITISH    CENTRAL  AFRICA       411 


After  it  is  known  that  a  young  married  woman  is  with  child  another 
ceremony  takes  place  (this  is  nearly  universal).  A  great  feast  is  got  up 
for  which  immense  quantities  of  food  are  prepared.  The  woman  with  child 
sits  outside  her  hut,  and  her  head  is  anointed  with  castor  oil.  The  chief 
woman  presiding  over  the  ceremony  then  directs  her  assistants  to  shave 
the  patient's  head.  Nothing  further  is  done  that  day  except  the  continued 
preparation  of  food  for  the  coming  feast.  On  the  morrow  the  young  woman 
is  anointed  with  oil  and  red-ochre  and  sits  out  again  in  front  of  her  door 
while  a  dance  of  matrons  takes  place  before  her  which  is  said  to  be  of  an 
indelicate  character  and  at  which  songs  of  considerable  coarseness  are  sung. 
One  of  the  women  dancing  has  a  large  gourd  tied  under  the  waist  cloth 
to  simulate  advanced  pregnancy  and  struts  about  in  this  "honourable" 
condition.  These  ceremonies  finish  on  the  night  of  the  second  day  by  a 
secret  conclave  inside  the  young  woman's  dwelling  at  which  it  is  said  her 
husband  is  present  and  that  much  advice — some  good,  some  silly,  and  some 
immodest — is  given  by  the  assembled  matrons  to  the  young  couple.  The 
woman  who  presides  over  these  first- pregnancy  customs  is  paid  a  fee  of  a 
goat  or  a  certain  quantity  of  corn.  Among  most  of  the  tribes  when  these 
ceremonies  are  complete  (part  of  their  object  being  the  ascertainment  by  the 
matrons  beyond  a  doubt  that  the  young  wife  is  pregnant)  the  husband  will 
cease  to  cohabit  with  his  wife  until  the  child  is  born  and  weaned.^  If  he  has 
another  wife  he  will  take  to  her  society ;  if  not  he  will  strive  to  remain 
chaste  in  the  fear  lest  if  he  commit  adultery  his  unborn  child  will  die.  Many 
young  husbands  choose  such  a  time  to  make  a  trading  or 
hunting  journey  or  engage  for  service  with  Europeans.  Once 
removed,  however,  from  the  vicinity  of  the  wife  and  village 
they  appear  to  hold  but  lightly  the  restrictions  or  incon- 
tinence and  act  on  the  proverb  "What  the  eye  does  not  see 
the  heart  does  not  grieve  for." 

Amongst  the  Awa-nkonde  at  the  north  end  of  Lake 
Nyasa  similar  ceremonies  are  performed  on  the  young  girls 
at  puberty  and  on  the  wives  after  pregnancy.  After  the  first 
menstruation  the  girl  is  kept  apart  with  a  few  companions  of 
her  own  sex  in  a  darkened  house.  The  floor  is  covered  with 
dry  banana  leaves,  but  no  fire  is  allowed  in  the  house,  which 
is  named  "The  house  of  the  Awasungu"  ("maidens  who 
have  hearts"). 

The  following  may  be  regarded  as  the  general  principles 
on  which  marriage  customs  are  based.  (I  will  subsequently 
note  special  customs  of  several  tribes.)  Marriage  is  usually 
by  purchase.  Arrangements  are  often  made  long  beforehand 
by  the  youth  or  man  or,  on  his  behalf,  by  his  "  godfather,"  or 
father,  or  patron  (if  he  be  a  slave).  It  may  be  desired  to 
contract  an  alliance  with  a  certain  man  of  near  relationship 
or  of  influence,  and  the  bargain  may  be  commenced  when 
this  man's  wife  is  known  to  be  with  child,  and  before  the 
child  is  born,  that  is  to  say,  the  individual  who  wishes  to  get 
married  or  whose  matrimonial  affairs  are  being  arranged  for  him,  makes  an 
offer  for  the  betrothal  of  the  as  yet  unborn  infant  should  it  prove  to  be  a 

^  In  many  tribes  where  monogamy  among  poor  people  is  the  common  state  the  husband  resumes 
cohabitation  soon  after  the  child  is  bom. 


YOUNG  MUNKONDE  GIRL 
(One  of  the  "Awasungu") 


412  BRITISH    CENTRAL    AFRICA 

female,  which  arrangement,  if  concluded,  holds  good  if  the  child  turns  out  to 
be  of  that  sex.  Or  the  betrothal  may  take  place  a  few  months  after  the 
female  child  is  born,  or  when  she  is  a  little  girl.  Of  course  there  are  many 
instances  when  a  young  man  will  take  a  fancy  to  a  young  unmarried  woman 
without  any  such  previous  arrangement  and  will,  through  his  surety  or  god- 
father, apply  for  her  hand  in  marriage.  Whenever  marriage  is  by  an  arrangement 
in  this  manner  a  certain  value  is  paid  for  the  wife.  It  may  be  as  small  as 
two  dressed  skins  in  Angoniland,  or  as  high  as  several  cows  and. a  large 
quantity  of  trade  goods  in  the  case  of  a  chiefs  daughter  or  in  wealthy  cattle- 
keeping  tribes. 

Then  there  is  marriage  by  capture — one  of  the  chief  inducements  to  indulge 
in  war  and  slave  raiding.  When  the  Administration  first  began  to  get  into 
conflict  with  the  slave  traders  and  required  an  armed  force  to  put  them  down, 
from  first  to  last  thousands  of  natives  must  have  offered  to  volunteer  for  service 
on  the  understanding  that  they  were  to  be  allowed  to  carry  off"  the  enemy's 
women.  Naturally  they  were  not  accepted  on  those  terms,  but  even  in  the  case 
of  our  unarmed  porters  we  had  the  greatest  difficulty  in  restraining  them  from 
helping  themselves  to  wives  when  marching  with  us  into  the  enemy's  country. 
The  women  as  a  rule  make  no  very  great  resistance  on  these  occasions.  It 
is  almost  like  playing  a  game.  A  woman  is  surprised  as  she  goes  to  get  water 
at  the  stream,  or  when  she  is  on  her  way  to  or  from  the  plantation.  The  man 
has  only  got  to  show  her  she  is  cornered  and  that  escape  is  not  easy  or  pleasant 
and  she  submits  to  be  carried  off*.  Of  course  there  are  cases  where  the  woman 
takes  the  first  opportunity  of  running  back  to  her  first  husband  if  her  captor 
treats  her  badly,  and  again  she  may  be  really  attached  to  her  first  husband  and 
make  every  effort  to  return  to  him  for  that  reason.  But  as  a  general  rule  they 
seem  to  accept  very  cheerfully  these  abrupt  changes  in  their  matrimonial 
existence.^ 

Concubinage  represents  another  form  of  marriage.  The  man  may  purchase 
one  or  more  female  slaves  and  it  is  always  assumed  that  all  the  women  folk 
of  his  household  are  his  wives.  In  like  manner  a  free  woman,  especially  if  she 
be  a  chieftainess,  or  daughter  of  a  chief,  may  for  motives  of  policy  make  no 
regular  marriage  but  take  a  male  slave  to  live  with  her.  Polygamy  is,  of  course, 
very  general  though  at  the  same  time  poor  men  often  confine  themselves  to  one 
wife.  Adultery  is  extremely  common  and  in  very  few  parts  of  British  Central 
Africa  is  looked  upon  as  a  very  serious  matter,  as  a  wrong  which  cannot 
be  compensated  by  a  small  payment.  Yet  in  a  way  the  natives  are  jealous 
of  their  women  ;  they  are  not  at  all  anxious  to  encourage  intercourse  between 
their  wives  and  white  men,*  though  they  seem  to  be  much  more  jealous  about 
the  white  man  than  their  brother  negro.  As  a  general  rule  it  may  be  said  that 
illicit  intercourse  with  women  on  the  part  of  Europeans  causes  great  dissatisfac- 
tion in  the  native  mind  and  invariably  gives  rise  to  acts  of  revenge  on  their 
part  and  even  to  serious  risings.  On  the  other  hand  if  the  European  tries 
to  obtain  a  wife  in  a  legitimate  manner  by  negotiation  and  purchase  they  are 
not  at  all  unwilling  to  treat  and  no  ill  humour  whatever  results  from  his  inter- 
marrying with  them.  In  their  eyes  it  is  simply  a  matter  of  justice.  They 
regard  it  with  the  same  amount  of  emotion  as  they  would  the  stealing  of  their 

^  The  Rev.  DufF  Macdonald,  a  competent  authority  on  Yao  manners  and  customs,  says  in  his 
hook  Africana:  **I  was  told  .  .  .  that  a  native  man  would  not  pass  a  solitary  woman  and  that  her 
refusal  of  him  would  be  so  contrary  to  custom  that  he  might  kill  her.  Of  course  this  would  apply  only 
to  females  that  are  not  engaged." 


NATIVES  OF  BRITISH  CENTRAL  AFRICA       413 

fowls  or  com  in  lieu  of  buying  them,  even  though  the  price  charged  for  them 
is  very  small. 

Polyandry,  or  the  possession  of  more  than  one  husband  at  once  is  very 
uncommon  amongst  the  women.  However  ready  some  of  them  are  to  dissolve 
the  marriage  tie  they  are  generally  faithful  to  one  husband  at  a  time.  Indeed 
I  should  say  their  tendency  was  to  be  chaste  and  virtuous  after  marriage  and 
not  to  willingly  depart  from  the  one  husband  unless  he  shows  indifference 
or  cruelty. 

Marriage  by  purchase  or  arrangement  is  conducted  as  follows  amongst  the 
Yao :  The  suitor  if  he  be  of  age  or  the  suitor's  godfather^  if  he  be  a  boy 
hears  that  a  girl-child  is  born  to  a  man  with  whom  a  marriage  connection 
is  desired.  Or  a  child  nearer  the  marriageable  age  is  being  solicited.  The 
young  man  wishing  to  marry  or  the  godfather  on  behalf  of  a  boy  not  yet 
betrothed  seeks  out  the  guardian  or  godfather  of  the  girl  and  proposes  the 
match.  The  godfather  refers  him  to  the  girl-child's  mother.  If  he  be  the  first 
applicant  and  bring  a  nice  present  consent  is  almost  always  given.  Then  the 
two  are  betrothed,  the  boy  or  man  gives  another  present,  and  henceforth  keeps 
the  girl  supplied  with  cloth  to  wear  until  the  marriage.  The  public  intimation 
of  the  betrothal  being  complete  is  the  acceptance  and  wearing  of  this  cloth. 

A  betrothed  girl  often  cooks  food  for  her  future  spouse.  It  is  rare  for 
children  thus  growing  up  together  to  fail  to  marry  or  to  dislike  one  another. 
Sometimes  however  a  young  girl  betrothed  while  very  young  to  a  grown  man 
may  refuse  to  carry  out  the  bargain  when  she  attains  marriageable  age  and 
if  she  has  taken  a  dislike  to  her  proposed  husband. 

Amongst  the  Atonga  on  the  west  coast  of  Nyasa  the  following  are  the 
customs  observed  in  regard  to  marriage.  A  youth  or  man  who  wishes  to  marry 
pays  about  eight  yards  of  cloth  to  the  aunt  (mother's  sister)  of  the  girl 
he  fancies.  If  this  gift  is  accepted  the  prospective  husband  proceeds  to  build 
a  house  close  to  that  of  the  man  who  will  become  his  father-in-law.  Whilst 
the  house  is  building  he  sends  a  present  equivalent  to  about  four  yards  of  cloth 
to  the  girl's  mother.  (It  would  appear  as  if  amongst  the  Atonga  cases  of 
a  girl  being  betrothed  very  young  are  less  common  than  elsewhere,  and  that  the 
majority  of  marriages  are  only  arranged  when  the  boy  and  girl  are  approaching 
or  have  passed  puberty.) 

When  the  day  for  the  marriage  is  come  a  number  of  young  girls  who  are 
friends  of  the  bride  take  possession  of  her,  put  cloth  over  her  face  as  a  veil  and 
deposit  her  in  the  bridegroom's  house.  The  husband  is  awaiting  her  inside  the 
house.  She  stops  at  the  threshold  and  will  not  cross  it  until  the  bridegroom 
has  given  her  a  hoe.  She  then  puts  one  leg  over  the  lintel  of  the  doorway  and 
the  husband  hands  her  two  yards  of  cloth.  Then  the  bride  places  both  her  feet 
within  the  house  and  stands  near  the  doorway.  Upon  doing  so  she  receives 
a  present  of  beads  or  some  equivalent.  She  then  advances  to  the  middle 
of  the  hut  and  there  receives  four  yards  of  cloth.  All  the  bridesmaids  except 
one  accompany  her  thus  far  but  remain  at  her  back.  One  of  them  goes  in 
front.  Then  the  bride  sits  on  the  bed  and  the  bridesmaids  leave.  The  husband, 
after  their  departure,  places  a  lot  of  beads  on  the  mat  at  the  bride's  feet.  After 
this  he  removes  her  clothing  and  leaves  her  naked  save  for  a  bead  girdle  which 
she  may  probably  wear,  but  whilst  stripping  her  he  gives  her  a  present  of  eight 

*  I  can  only  use  this  word  to  express  the  individual  (of  the  male  sex)  who  after  the  birth  of  the  child 
is  appointed  its  guardian  by  the  parents.  The  father's  brother  (uncle)  is  usually  chosen  for  this  position, 
and  henceforth  transacts  all  business  for  his  male  or  female  godchild. 


414 


BRITISH   CENTRAL   AFRICA 


yards  of  cloth  which  is  put  aside  with  the  accumulation  of  the  other  presents. 
They  then  sleep  together,  but  usually  not  on  the  bed  but  on  a  mat  placed  before 
the  fire  burning  in  the  centre  of  the  hut.  The  next  morning  the  bridesmaids 
return.  They  affect  to  gaze  round  about  the  bed  and  exclaim  upon  seeing  the 
mass  of  beads  poured  out  on  the  mat,  "You  have  a  generous  husband."  If, 
however,  an  ample  supply  of  beads  has  not  been  exhibited  in  this  fashion  the 

bridesmaids  sneer  and  utter 
contemptuous  remarks,  the 
more  genuine  in  feeling 
because  these  beads  thrown 
on  to  the  mat  are  supposed 
to  be  their  perquisites  and 
are  taken  away  by  them. 
Soon  after  the  bridesmaids 
have  gone  the  father  of  the 
newly-wedded  wife  pays  an 
early  visit  to  the  husband's 
father  and  invites  him  to  a 
friendly  talk.  Much  native 
beer  is  made  and  drunk. 
The  "big  women"  (matrons 
of  the  village)  then  go  to 
the  bride*s  home  and  re- 
move her  head  veil  of  cloth. 
All  the  husband's  brothers, 
if  he  has  any,  give  presents 
to  the  bride.  The  bride's 
father  catches  two  fowls, 
male  and  female,  and 
should  give  the  hen  to  the 
bridegroom's  father  to  keep, 
saying,  "  You  have  got  my 
daughter,  I  have  got  your 
son  " ;  but  if  for  any  reason 
the  bride's  father  is  dis- 
satisfied with  his  son-in-law 
he  gives  the  male  bird  to 
the  groom's  father  as  a 
sign  that  he  returns  the 
son  and  will  not  have  him 
as  a  son-in-law.  If  the 
is  given,  however,  the  marriage  is  considered  to  have  been  satisfactorily 


A   MTONGA   MAN 


hen 


settled  and  the  father  calls  his  daughter  to  him  and  lectures  her  on  her  duties 
as  a  married  woman.  On  the  second  night  of  the  marriage  nupta  parvum 
pannum  inter  clunes  celat,  quo  post  coitum  semen  a  vulva  detergit,  ut  postridie 
matronis  pagi  ostendat.  Illae  semine  inspecto  utrum  ex  mare  valido  emissus 
sit  pronuntiant.  Quodsi  aliter  decernunt,  nupta  patrem  suam  docet,  qui  quum 
ad  mariti  patiem  accessit,  dicit :  "  Mi  amice,  filius  tuus  non  ad  generandum 
idmeus  est :  lege  alium  ex  filiis  tuis  filiae  meai  conjugem." 

Amongst  the  Atonga  the  wife  does  not  leave  her  husband  directly  she  is 
enceinte^   but   perhaps   at   the   sixth   month.     The   husband   does   not  resume 


NATIVES  OF  BRITISH   CENTRAL  AFRICA       415 

relations  with  his  wife  until  five  or  six  months  after  the  birth  of  the  child.  If  in 
this  interval  of  some  nine  months  he  has  connection  with  any  other  woman  the 
popular  belief  is  that  his  wife  will  certainly  die.  The  Atonga  widower  seldom 
remarries  until  five  months  after  the  death  of  his  wife. 

Amongst  the  Wankonde  at  the  north  end  of  Lake  Nyasa  men  seldom  marry 
out  of  their  own  tribe  but  avoid  marriage  between  cousins.  Polygamy  is 
prevalent  among  them.  As  one  amongst  many  reasons  given  for  polygamy 
it  is  stated  that  as  a  man  cannot  cohabit  with  his  wife  during  the  menstrual 
period  or  during  pregnancy,  he  must  have  more  than  one  wife,  as  once  married 
he  cannot  exercise  self-restraint. 

When  desirous  of  marrying  a  girl  the  young  Munkonde  approaches  her 
parents  through  a  comrade  or  friends.  If  the  parents  are  willing  to  treat  of 
marriage,  and  the  girl  herself  consents,  the  young  man  gives  the  father  or 
guardian  a  present  of  one  or  more  cows  ^  (some  tribes  give  goats,  hides,  cloth,^ 
&c.).  Then  the  parents  on  both  sides  meet  and  agree  to  the  union.  They 
deny  that  this  is  purchase :  it  is  merely  a  token  of  good  will  and  good  faith. 
Should  the  married  persons  quarrel  in  after  days  and  the  young  woman  run 
away  to  her  father's  house  her  husband  can  demand  the  return  of  the  goods. 

Contrary  to  the  custom  that  prevails  in  the  greater  part  of  Southern 
Nyasaland,  where  the  husband  invariably  goes  away  to  live  with  the  people  of 
his  wife,  among  the  Wankonde  the  husband  takes  his  bride  to  his  own  village, 
though  Dr.  Cross  has  heard  of  cases  where  this  custom  has  been  reversed. 

Among  the  Wankonde  a  man  s  widow  usually  becomes  the  wife  of  the  next 
brother.  The  Wankonde  have  that  curious  custom  by  which  a  man  is  practically 
forbidden  to  speak  to  or  even  look  at  his  mother-in-law.  This  also  obtains 
amongst  the  A-nyanja  to  some  extent ;  yet  here  the  son-in-law  has  to.  hoe  his 
mother-in-law  s  garden  and  assist  her  in  many  other  ways.  The  Rev.  D.  C.  R. 
Scott  states, "  The  children  endeavour  to  heal  the  breach  between  their  father 
and  his  mother-in-law  (their  grandmother)." 

Apparently  the  A-nyanja  are  less  "  emancipated  "  than  the  other  tribes  of 
British  Central  Africa.  Among  th^  A-nyanja  if  a  man  commit  adultery  during 
the  pregnancy  of  his  wife  and  the  wife  or  child  should  die  in  the  delivery,  the 
wife's  people  gather  together  and  demand  compensation,  sometimes  asking  for 
the  sister  of  the  husband.  Amongst  the  A-nyanja  also  the  custom  prevails 
that  if  a  man  be  caught  in  adultery  he  is  obliged  to  get  another  man  as  a 
substitute  to  cohabit  with  his  wife  before  he  can  return  to  her,  and  he  must  pay 
his  substitute  for  this  service  four  yards  of  cloth  or  an  equivalent  present,  or 
else  the  substitute  can  claim  and  carry  away  the  wife. 

The  marriage  customs  amongst  the  A-mambwe  and  A-lungu  of  Lake  Tan- 
ganyika and  the  Tanganyika  plateau  are  very  similar  to  the  Wankonde.  Those 
of  the  Angoni  resemble  the  customs  amongst  the  Zulus  of  South  Africa. 
Among  the  Aba-bisa,  the  A-senga,  and  the  Awemba,  and,  indeed,  most  of  the 
tribes  between  Nyasa  and  the  Luapula  River,  there  are  similar  customs  to  the 
rites  which  prevail  amongst  the  Atonga ;  but  those  of  the  A-lunda  (a  people 
dwelling  on  the  south  shore  of  Lake  Mweru  and  the  banks  of  the  Luapula 
River)  present,  as  might  be  expected,  features  more  similar  to  the  marriage 
customs  of  West  Central  Africa  and  Angola,  since  the  A-lunda  came  from 
that  direction. 

'  In  the  case  of  a  chief's  daughter  fifteen  to  twenty  head  of  cattle  may  be  the  present  given. 
'  Mr.  Yule  states  that  in  some  of  the  poorer  Wankonde  tribes  the  usual  gift  is  three  hoes,  two  brass 
waist-rings,  and  a  few  yards  of  cloth. 


4i6 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


The  Wankonde  express  great  horror  at  the  idea  of  cousins  marrying.  The 
Yao  on  the  other  hand  marry  their  cousins  frequently. 

As  regards  the  customs  relating  to  parturition  and  to  the  treatment  of  the 
newly-born  child,  there  is  probably  not  much  difference  between  the  various 
tribes,  and  what  is  reported  of  one  set  of  people  might  be  found  to  exist  in 
another  upon  closer  observation.  The  Rev.  Duff"  Macdonald,  in  his  interesting 
book  on  the  Yao  customs,^  makes  a  statement  which  appears  difficult  of  belief 
were  it  not  that  so  many  of  his  remarks  are  found  to  be  perfectly  accurate.  He 
writes  that  Yao  women  "  when  the  time  of  the  child's  birth  draws  near  do  not 
stay  in  the  house  or  even  in  the  village.  Accompanied  by  one  or  two  female 
friends  the  woman  who  is  about  to  become  a  mother  goes  forth  to  seek  the 
retirement  of  the  great  forest."  He  goes  on  to  state  somewhat  ambiguously 
that  she  remains  in  the  bush  until  delivery  has  taken  place  and  that  if  any  com- 
plications ensue  a  native  doctor  is  applied  to  who  sends  medicine  to  drink. 
After  the  birth  of  the  child  one  of  the  female  friends  of  the  mother  carries  it 
back  to  the  village,  the  latter  accompanying  it  on  foot.  I  confess  that  I  have 
not  been  able  to  find  confirmation  of  this  statement  in  my  own  notes  respecting 
the  Yao.  Perhaps  I  took  it  too  much  as  a  matter  of  course  that  the  woman 
was  delivered  in  a  hut,  but  the  tenour  of  the  answers  I  received  from  Wa-yao 
as  to  their  customs  would  certainly  show  that  in  most  cases  the  woman  awaits 

the  child's  birth  in  the  shelter  of  a  house, 
usually  her  own  hut.  It  is  so  certainly 
amongst  the  A-nyanja,  the  Atonga,  the 
Wankonde,  and  tribes  of  the  Nyasa- 
Tanganyika  plateau. 

The  Atonga  inform  me  that  in  their 
country  the  child's  navel  string  is  not 
severed  for  two  days  after  birth,  and  that 
the  mother  during  that  period  carries  the 
child  about  with  the  navel  string  unsevered. 
On  the  third  day  the  mother  anoints  it 
with  the  bitter  juice  of  a  fruit  called 
"  Mutura."  This  dries  up  the  string  and 
it  breaks  off*  without  harm  to  the  child. 
According  to  the  Rev.  D.  C.  Ruffele-Scott 
in  the  notes  on  native  customs  published 
in  his  Maflanja  dictionary  the  parturient 
woman  remains  for  eight  days  in  her 
house  after  the  child's  birth.  It  would 
seem  amongst  all  the  tribes  that  after  the 
birth  has  taken  place  the  child's  head  is 
shaved  and  the  mother's  hair  is  either  cut 
off"  around  the  forehead  or  the  whole  of 
her  head  is  shaved  likewise.^  The  child 
also  is  usually  well  oiled.  Mr.  J.  B.  Yule 
informs  me  that  amongst  the  A-mambwe 
on  the  Nyasa  -  Tanganyika  plateau  the 
afterbirth  is  carefully  buried  under  the 
floor  of  the  mother's  hut.  He  also  states  that  if  the  firstborn  child  of  a 
woman  be  a  boy  it  is  rarely  allowed  to  live  and,  further,  that  if  the  girl  cuts 
'  Africana,  vol.  i.       *  Shaving  the  head  accompanies  most  ceremonies ;  the  hair  is  always  careiiilly  buried. 


•'A  GOOD  MOTHER  ' 
(Sketch  of  a  Mnyanja  woman) 


NATIVES  OF  BRITISH. CENTRAL  AFRICA 

the  first  two  upper  incisors  before  the  lower  teeth  make  their  appearanceTtfie 
child  is  usually  strangled  and  thrown  into  a  stagnant  pool.  Amongst  the 
Mambwe,  if  a  child  is  prematurely  bom  it  is  cut  into  five  pieces  (two  legs, 
two  arms  and  trunk)  and  is  then  buried  under  the  floor  of  the  mother's  hut. 
Mr.  Yule  states  that  these  customs  also  prevail  amongst  the  nearly  allied 
A-lungu.  Amongst  the  Atonga,  when  the  child's  navel  string  has  been  removed 
the  mother  is  thoroughly  smartened  up  and  walks  round  the  village  to  receive 
congratulations.  Usually  the  husband  and  father  of  the  child  keeps  carefully 
aloof  from  his  wife  for  some  days  before  and  after  child-birth.  Amongst  the 
A-nyanja  the  door  of  the  house  where  the  woman  stays  with  her  newly-born 
child  is  always  kept  a  little  ajar.  The  woman  usually  remains  therein  for  three 
days  after  confinement,  her  woman  friends  or  the  old  women  of  the  village 
staying  with  her,  one  at  a  time.  These  women  generally  remain  till  the  child 
is  eight  days  old. 

The  Wankonde  have  these  birth  customs:  The  mother  is  secluded  for  a 
lunar  month  after  the  birth  of  the  child,  and  is  regarded  as  unclean.  Before 
being  readmitted  into  society  she  must  go  alone  into  a  running  stream,  wash  in 
the  water  and  anoint  with  oil.  With  this  same  people  it  is  held  that  if  the 
children  in  a  family  die  one  after  another  in  succession  the  father  must  kill 
himself.  "  I  have  known  of  a  case,"  writes  Dr.  Cross,  "  where  when  three 
children  died  in  succession  this  thing  happened.  I  was  told  that  the  father  in 
such  a  case  would  hang  himself,  or  would  put  his  gun  into  his  mouth  and  pull 
the  trigger  with  his  toe."  "  The  children  of  an  adulterous  intercourse  are  killed 
in  the  Wankonde  tribe.  The  people  also  practise  the  adoption  of  children 
extensively,  especially  where  couples  are  childless." 

Children  that  are  born  deformed  or  defective  are  almost  invariably  killed. 
Respect  for  the  life  of  very  young  children  is  not  great  though  of  course 
the  mother  from  natural  instincts  is  loth  to  lose  her  child.  It  was  related 
to  me  once  of  the  head  wife  of  some  man  that,  being  extremely  angry  with 
one  of  the  junior  wives,  and  seemingly  for  good  reason,  she  punished  her 
by  taking  her  young  baby  and  throwing  it  on  the  fire  where  it  burned  to  death. 
This  fact  was  told  to  me  to  indicate  that  the  woman  in  question  was  a  person 
of  determined  character  but  it  did  not  seem  to  strike  my  native  informant 
that  it  was  a  particularly  wicked  or  cruel  thing  to  do.  Yet  children  on  the 
whole  are  kindly  treated  if  they  are  reared  at  all.  They  grow  up  much  like 
children  do  in  all  uncivilised  countries — treated  somewhat  heedlessly  but  seldom 
harshly.  The  mother  will  place  a  charm  round  her  baby's  neck,  and  in  some 
cases  ornaments.  As  a  rule  the  child  that  can  walk  is  allowed  to  run  about 
naked  and  dirty  so  that  it  may  not  be  bewitched;  but  babies  in  arms  are 
scrupulously  washed  and  kept  clean. 

In  spite  of  their  desire  to  honour  their  husbands  with  offspring  it  is  not 
at  all  a  rare  thing  for  women  to  bring  about  abortion  between  the  third 
and  fifth  month,  either  to  spite  their  husbands  with  whom  they  may  have 
quarrelled,  or  who  have  given  them  cause  for  jealousy,  or  because  the  child 
is  the  result  of  illicit  intercourse.  Abortion  is  procured  by  drinking  a  decoction 
of  the  bark  of  certain  trees,  or  else  by  the  insertion  of  a  sharply  pointed  piece 
of  bamboo. 

Amongst  the  A-nyanja  and  the  Wa-yao,  the  child  is  usually  named  by  one 
of  the  women  who  attend  the  mother ;  amongst  the  Atonga  the  father  gives 
the  name.  If  the  child  is  a  son  he  receives  the  name  of  either  his  father 
or  grandfather,  if  it  is  a  girl  the  name  of  the  paternal  or  maternal  grandmother. 

27 


41 8  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

Native  names  almost  invariably  have  some  meaning ;  that  is  to  say,  with  the 
exception  of  inherited  names  which  have  come  down  for  many  generations. 
The  name  of  nearly  every  individual  is  a  living  word  of  plain  meaning. 

The  birth  of  twins  is  not  ordinarily  well  received  and  in  some  tribes  one 
of  the  two  children  is  killed.  I  have  never  heard  of  any  case  of  triplets  or 
quadruplets  ;  and  when  I  have  told  natives  that  such  cases  occurred  in  England 
occasionally,  they  expressed  the  greatest  horror.^ 

After  the  mother  begins  to  go  about  again  she  usually  takes  part  in  a  dance 
which  is  attended  by  women  only,  if  she  has  borne  a  child  for  the  first  time. 

Children  early  enter  upon  the  duties  of  life.  Little  girls  soon  begin  to  assist 
their  mothers  in  preparing  food  and  in  garden  work.  The  little  boys  mind  the 
goats  or  the  fowls  or  scare  away  the  baboons  from  the  crops,  and  when  they 
are  seven  or  eight  years  old  commence  to  follow  their  fathers  on  short  journeys. 
The  little  girls  amuse  themselves  by  dancing  and  singing,  even  playing  with 
monstrous  dolls  that  are  hardly  to  be  recognised  as  imitations  of  the  human 
baby.  Little  boys,  if  they  dwell  near  the  river,  play  with  toy  canoes,  or  they 
throw  wooden  spears  and  shoot  with  tiny  bows  and  arrows.  The  initiation 
ceremonies  more  or  less  attendant  on  puberty  have  been  already  described, 
and  it  has  been  related  how  both  girls  and  boys  at  that  time  change  their 
childish  names  for  other  appellations.  In  the  case  of  the  boys  the  names 
are  sometimes  given  by  the  persons  who  preside  over  the  ceremonies  or  by 
the  headman  or  chief  of  the  village  from  which  the  boys  come ;  or  the 
youths  themselves  may  insist  on  choosing  their  own  names. 

The  Rev.  D.  C.  R.  Scott  writes  in  his  dictionary :  **  A  person  is  supposed  to 

change  so  radically  at  puberty  that  the  utterance  of  his  first  name  is  a  ver>' 

great  insult.     A  boy  called  by  this  name  will  probably  answer,  *  There  is  no 

such  person  here.'"     But  even  after  puberty  the  names  are  changed  with  the 

\  greatest  facility.     Persons  who  are  very  great  friends  may  interchange  names» 

\  or  a  man  may  go  on  a  journey  and  prefer  to  call  himself  by  a  new  appellation, 

•  on  his  return,  which  refers  to  some  important  event  which  has  occurred  in  his 

travels.^ 

The  age  of  puberty  amongst  the  girls  is  usually  eleven  years :  with  the  boys, 
twelve  to  fourteen ;  but  neither  sex  attains  its  full  maturity  till  about  sixteen 
years  in  the  woman  and  twenty  years  in  the  man.  The  beard  and  moustache 
in  men  make  their  appearance  relatively  late,  not  beginning  to  show  much 
before  twenty-four  or  twenty-five  years  of  age. 

Neither  boys  nor  girls  wear  clothing  (unless  they  are  the  children  of  chiefs) 
until  nearing  the  age  of  puberty.  Amongst  the  Wankonde,  except  in  such  few 
of  those  people  as  have  come  under  European  influence,  practically  no  covering 
is  worn  by  the  men  except  a  ring  of  brass  wire  round  the  stomach.  It  is  the 
custom  now,  however,  amongst  the  Wankonde  men  who  frequent  trading  or 
mission  stations  to  suspend  a  piece  of  cloth  from  this  brass  girdle  or  if  there  is 

^  A  curious  custom  obtains  amongst  the  Wankonde  if  twins  are  born.  Both  parents  are  put  into 
a  grass  hut  in  a  secluded  part  of  the  village  and  there  they  abide  for  one  month.  No  villager  can  see 
the  face  of  the  secluded  persons.     The  father  hides  himself  lest  his  enemies  should  kill  him. 

The  Atonga  consider  the  birth  of  twins  a  most  unlucky  circumstance,  and  although  they  will  not 
admit  it  I  think  that  one  of  the  twins  is  very  frequently  killed.  The  belief  on  their  part  is  that  if 
both  live  then  both  will  suffer  double,  for  the  tie  between  them  is  so  strong  that  even  although  separated 
by  distance  each  will  feel  the  other's  pain  in  addition  to  his  own  sicknesses  and  hurts.  On  the  other 
hand  the  Anyanja  and  the  Yao  do  not  seem  to  care  very  much  one  way  or  the  other  whether  twins 
are  bom. 

2  Names  are  most  changeable  amongst  these  n^^oes.  Sometimes  for  mere  caprice  they  will  say,  "  1 
intend  to  call  myself  so-and-so,"  and  henceforth  the  new  name  out  of  politeness  is  scrupulously  remembered. 


NATIVES  OF  BRITISH   CENTRAL  AFRICA       419 

no  cloth  at  hand  a  small  leafy  branch  or  a  folded  banana  leaf  The  Wankonde 
women  are  likewise  almost  entirely  nude,  but  generally  cover  the  pudenda  with 
a  tiny  beadwork  apron,  often  a  piece  of  very  beautiful  workmanship  and  exactly 
resembling  the  same  article  worn  by  Kaffir  women.  A  like  degree  of  nudity 
prevails  amongst  many  of  the  Awemba,  amongst  the  A-lungu,  the  Batumbuka 
and  the  Angoni.  Most  of  the  Angoni  men,  however,  adopt  the  Zulu  fashion  of 
covering  the  glans  penis  with  a  small  wooden  case  or  the  outer  shell  of  a  fruit. 
The  Angoni — especially  those  who  are  not  of  Zulu  extraction,  but  merely  of  the 
widespread  A-nyanja  race — usually  wear  a  small  piece  of  leather  or  a  kilt  made 
of  animals'  tails  or  of  serval-skin,  in  place  of  or  in  addition  to  any  special 
covering  of  the  male  organ.  The  Wa-yao  have  a  strong  sense  of  decency  in 
matters  of  this  kind,  which  is  the  more  curious  since  they  are  more  given  to 
obscenity  in  their  rites,  ceremonies  and  dances  than  any  other  tribe.  Not  only 
is  it  extremely  rare  to  see  any  Yao  uncovered  but  both  men  and  women  have 
the  strongest  dislike  to  exposing  their  persons  even  to  the  inspection  of  a 
doctor.  The  Yao  men  now  almost  universally  wear  cloth  round  their  waists 
extending  to  the  knee — this  as  an  ordinary  covering,  though  in  time  of  war  or 
when  they  are  out  hunting  they  will  tuck  the  cloth  up  between  their  legs  in  a 
compact  way.  Before  the  European  introduced  cloth,  however,  or  the  Yao 
caravans  brought  back  quantities  of  it  from  the  coast,  these  people,  like  most 
others  in  South  Central  Africa,  wore  bark  cloth,^  but  except  amongst  the 
remoter  valleys  of  Yao-land,  or  amongst  the  A-nyanja  who  are  far  removed 
from  Lake  Nyasa,  or  the  still  more  barbarous  people  of  the  Lubisa  country  or 
the  banks  of  the  Luapula  River,  cloth — chiefly  European  calico  or  a  native 
towel-like  manufacture — is  now  worn.  In  Angoniland  and  on  the  Nyasa-Tangan- 
yika  plateau  and  in  parts  of  West  Nyasaland  a  good  deal  of  weaving  is  carried 
on  and  the  native  cloth  thus  made  is  substantial  and  somewhat  ornamental, 
though  its  web  is  many  times  coarser  than  the  finely,  woven  cotton  cloths  of 
European  civilisation.  Formerly  skins  were  much  worn  as  cloaks  or  coverings 
to  keep  off  the  cold,  but  they  too  like  the  bark  cloth  are  fast  disappearing. 

The  Atonga  and  many  of  the  A-nyanja  people,  and  all  the  tribes  west  of 
Nyasa  (with  the  exception  possibly  of  the  A-lunda)  have  not  the  Yao  regard 
for  decency,  and,  although  they  can  seldom  or  ever  be  accused  of  a  deliberate 
intention  to  expose  themselves,  the  men  are  relatively  indifferent  as  to  whether 
their  nakedness  is  or  is  not  concealed,  though  the  women  are  modest  and  careful 
in  this  respect.  The  chiefs  and  men  of  any  importance  amongst  the  Yao, 
especially  in  the  vicinity  of  Lake  Nyasa,  often  adopt  an  Arab  costume,  wearing 
a  long  kanzu^  or  white  shirt  nearly  down  to  the  heels,  a  piece  of  cloth  wound 
round  the  head  for  a  turban,  a  shawl  over  the  shoulders,  and  so  on.  There  is  a 
great  desire  amongst  the  A-nyanja  to  dress  like  Europeans  if  they  can  afford  it. 
The  Makololo  chiefs,  for  instance,  on  the  Central  and  Lower  Shire,  dress  more 
or  less  in  European  style  except  when  in  the  intimacy  of  their  homes.  The 
Atonga  have  a  great  leaning  for  European  clothes.  One  of  the  most  remarkable 
specimens  of  this  intelligent  race  that  I  have  known — Bandawe,  alias  Maferano,- 
who  has  risen  to  a  high  position  in  our  native  army,  who  is  able  to  read  and 
write,  and  even,  I  believe,  to  play  the  harmonium,  had  a  passion  for  accumulating 
suits  of  European  clothes  of  every  description.  When  serving  a  planter  as 
interpreter  some  years  ago,  he  asked,  as  part  payment  of  his  wages,  for  a  disused 
dress  suit  and  tall  silk  hat.     These  garments  he  used  to  don  on  Sundays  to  our 

*  They  strip  the  bark  off  the  tree,  soak  it  in  water  and  beat  it  out  with  wooden  hammers. 
'  His  original  native  name,  which  means  "a  mortal  conflict." 


420 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


A    YAO   OF   ZOMBA 


inextinguishable  merriment.  Finding  himself  too  much  laughed  at  he  made 
over  the  clothes,  as  a  very  special  honour,  to  his  head  wife  who  is  quite  a  heroine 
in  her  way.  This  woman  used  at  one  time  to  accompany  him  on  most  of  our 
campaigns,  even  insisting  on  going  into  battle,  till  one  day  she  was  wounded 
and  this  procedure  was  discovered  and  immediately  put  a  stop  to.  It  was  found 
out  in  this  way.  When  going  into  action  at  Kawinga's  one  of  the  officers  of  the 
Indian  contingent  noticed  a  strange  being  charging  in  line  jvith  the  Sikhs.     It 


NATIVES  OF  BRITISH   CENTRAL  AFRICA       421 


was  a  black  person  dressed  in  ludicrous  caricature  of  a  "masher"  in  a  very  tight- 
fitting  evening  suit  and  tall  hat.  The  masher,  however,  was  knocked  down  by 
a  spent  bullet  (fortunately  not  much  hurt)  and  upon  being  picked  up  was  found 
to  be  Bandawe's  wife  thus  strangely  habited. 

Amongst  the  still  untamed  savages  of  Angoniland  and  elsewhere  to  the 
north  and  west  of  Lake  Nyasa  many  strange  additions  to  their  costume  are 
worn  by  the  men  upon  going 
to  war.  The  Angoni  gene- 
rally tie  a  piece  of  red  cloth 
round  the  waist  and  don  a 
huge  kilt  of  animals*  tails  or 
of  dressed  cat  skins.  On  the 
head  they  will  place  either  a 
circlet  made  of  zebra  mane 
or  a  huge  headdress  of  black 
cock's  feathers.  White  frills 
are  worn  round  the  ankles, 
made  of  the  long  white  hair 
of  the  Colobus  monkey  or, 
failing  that,  of  goat's  hair. 
The  fighting  men  of  the 
Awemba  or  of  other  tribes 
between  Nyasa  and  Tangan- 
yika are  fond  of  wearing  as 
a  headdress  the  head  and 
beak  of  a  large  hombill.  The 
illustration  which  is  given  here 
of  a  "  Ruga-ruga "  illustrates 
this,  and  it  also  shows  other 
features  of  the  war  dress 
mainly  derived  from  the  Wan- 
yamwezi  people  to  the  north. 
The  coils  of  rope  which  this 
drawing  represents,  are  theo- 
retically intended  for  binding 
the  Ruga-ruga's  captives.  In 
the  countries  west  of  Lake 
Nyasa  and  on  Tanganyika 
(I  believe  also  in  the  Makua 
countries  to  the  east)  wooden 
masks  are  more  or  less 
worn  either  during  certain  dances  or  as  part  of  the  war  dress. 

Most  tribes  anoint  the  hair  with  oil,  generally  castor  oil,  but  some  use  the  fat 
of  animals.  The  Awa-bundali,  a  tribe  of  the  Wankonde  group,  comb  out  their 
wool,  plait  it,  weave  into  it  strips  of  bark  and  loop  these  plaits  back  over  the 
ears  like  "  bandeaux,"  tying  the  plaits  at  the  back  of  the  head.  Many  tribes 
not  only  among  the  Wankonde  but  of  A-nyanja,  A-lolo,  Ba-bisa,  Awemba 
stock,  endeavour  to  lengthen  their  hair  by  plaiting  into  it  black  thread  or  the 
hair  of  animals,  or  other  substances  which  may  appear  to  lengthen  it.  The 
Angoni,  where  they  do  not  adopt  the  Zulu  fashion  among  the  married  men 
of  wearing  a  head-ring  (made  round  the  head  with  plastered  hair),  train  their 


A  ** ruga-ruga' 


422  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

hair  into  long  wisps  which  they  tie  up  with  grass  or  straw.  It  is  the  fashion 
amongst  some  tribes — especially  to  the  south-east  of  Nyasaland  and  on  the 
Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau — to  wear  wigs  made  of  plaited  thread.  Into  these 
wigs  cowry  shells  are  sometimes  threaded. 

The  tribes  on  the  south  of  Tanganyika  occasionally  make  a  headdress 
of  black  goat  skin  the  hair  of  which  hangs  down  over  the  forehead,  simulating 
the  appearance  of  a  long-haired  race.  Other  people,  again,  manage  to  attach 
false  hair  or  imitation  hair  to  their  own  wool  and  give  themselves  the  appear- 
ance of  a  fine  mop  of  long  hair.  Bracelets,  necklets,  anklets,  and  similar 
ornaments  are  almost  universally  worn.  Some  bracelets  are  made  of  elephant's 
hide  ;  others  of  ivory — a  section  of  a  tusk  being  pierced  with  a  hole  large 
enough  for  the  passage  of  the  hand ;  others  of  plaited  grass  or  of  brass 
wire  or  iron. 

The  Angoni  men  will  generally  have  a  string  on  which  a  charm  is 
carried,  some  object  supposed  to  preserve  the  wearer  from  harm,  or  to  give 
him  especial  good  fortune.  Or  they  may  be  necklaces  of  the  black  seeds  of 
the  wild  banana  (Musa  ensete)  or  various  other  and  larger  seeds,  or  sections 
of  shells,  or  animals*  teeth,  or  the  glass  beads  of  commerce.  The  women 
will  frequently  wear  huge  collars  which  are  one  mass  of  beads  or  long  ropes 
of  beads  often  very  tastefully  formed.  A  girdle  of  beads  is  usuall}^  worn 
amongst  the  women  who  seldom  remove  it  after  it  has  once  been  put  on. 
Both  men  and  women  will  wear  anklets  of  much  the  same  material  as  their 
bracelets.  Women  are  especially  fond  of  thick  brass  or  copper  rings  round 
the  ankles.  Some  of  the  wives  of  the  Yao  chiefs  wear  heavy  silver  anklets 
of  Indian  manufacture  brought  from  the  coast. 

The  tribes  to  the  west  and  north  of  Lake  Nyasa  sometimes  use  sandals 
when  on  a  journey.  As  a  rule,  however,  the  people  of  these  countries  go 
about  barefooted  always,  even  though  the  soles  of  their  feet  may  be  terribly 
scorched  during  journeys  in  hot  weather  when  the  sun  at  times  makes  the 
path  hot  enough  to  burn  the  skin.  I  have  sometimes  noticed  the  Yao  wearing 
sandals  roughly  made  of  a  piece  of  hide. 

As  regards  adornments  of  the  person  which  consist  in  marking  or  decorating 
the  skin : — Not  many  of  the  tribes  go  in  for  tatooing  on  the  scale  to  which  it 
is  developed  in  the  Pacific,  though  most  of  them  have  a  tribal  mark.  In  some 
the  skin  is  ornamented  with  raised  weals  and  lumps  made  by  incisions  into 
which  some  irritating  substance  (usually  charcoal)  is  rubbed,  which  causes  the 
flesh  to  heal  with  a  raised  bluish  cicatrice.  To  the  east  of  the  British  Central 
Africa  Protectorate  amongst  the  Makua  and  the  Alomwe,  hideous  scars  are 
thus  raised  on  the  forehead.  These  are  sometimes  of  indigo  blue  and  probably 
some  other  colouring  matter  than  mere  charcoal  has  been  inserted.  The  people 
in  the  countries  between  Lake  Nyasa  and  the  Luapula — both  men  arid  women 
— cover  their  bodies  with  cicatrices  arranged  in  various  patterns. 

Amongst  the  Yao  tatooing  is  usually  limited  to  a  kind  of  rosette,  or  round 
mark  on  the  temples  and  three  or  four  longitudinal  marks  on  the  forehead, 
just  above  the  nasal  bone. 

The  A-nyanja  tatoo  on  the  forehead  and  they  also,  especially  to  the  west  of 
Lake  Nyasa,  practise  cicatrisation.  Ordinary  tatooing  is  done  by  making 
punctures  or  cuts  in  the  skin  and  afterwards  rubbing  in  charcoal.  In  cicatri- 
sation cuts  are  repeatedly  made  in  the  same  place  until  they  heal  with  a 
swollen  blob  of  flesh  which  remains  as  a  raised  lump.  If  charcoal  is  rubbed 
into  this  in  the  process  of  healing,  these  raised  lumps  are  blue  in  colour. 


NATIVES  OF  BRITISH   CENTRAL  AFRICA       423 


SPECIMENS  OF  TATOOING 

Lines  drawn  on  the  breast  and  stomach  of  the 

Wankonde. 
St.  Andrew's  Cross,  drawn  across  the  back  by 

the  Awemba. 


The  Wankonde  tatoo  extensively  about  the  age  of  puberty.     They  make 

small  incisions  with  a  pair  of  pincers  and  a  knife  and  rub  in  wood  ashes  or 

charcoal.     The  Wankonde  cut  marks  like  those  given  in  the  accompanying 

illustration  over  the  breast,  above  the 

mammae,  in  both  sexes.      Some  tatoo 

over    the    abdomen,    others    over    the 

hypogastrium,  where  they  make  a  series 

of   long   lines,   which    are   wonderfully 

straight. 

The     Awemba     make     large     St. 

Andrew*s  crosses  on  the  back,  reaching 

from  the  top  of  the  blade-bone  on  either 

side   to   the   point   of  the   hip  on   the 

opposite  side.    As  a  rule,  both  sexes  are 

tatooed,  and  the  tatoo  marks  certainly 

serve  both   among  the   A-nyanja,  the 

Wa-yao,    and   the   Wankonde   to   dis- 
tinguish tribe  from  tribe. 

The  Angoni  and  some  of  the  A-lungu 

and  Awemba  puncture  the  lobe  of  the 

ear   and   insert  a   quill.      The   quill   is 

presently  changed  for  a  thicker  wad  of 

bone  until  at  last  the  hole  has  been  so 

far  widened  as  to  admit  an  article  the 

size  of  an  ordinary  cotton  reel,  and  the 

ear  often  hangs  down  a  considerable  distance,  though  this  deformity  is  not 

pushed  to  the  extremes  I  have  observed  in  parts  of  East  Africa.     Many  of 

the  Yao  women  insert  a  small  piece  of 
bone,  or  ivory,  or  metal  through  the  wing 
of  the  nose.  Probably  this  custom  has 
been  borrowed  from  the  coast.  In  the 
wives  of  big  chiefs  under  Muhammadan 
influence  a  little  silver  ornament  replaces 
the  ordinary  wad  which  is  thrust  through 
the  outside  of  one  nostril.  The  most 
hideous  deformity  of  all  is  the  celebrated 
pelele.  This  is  a  round,  hollow  disc  of 
t  wood,  or  bone,  or  metal,  which  is  worn 
in  the  upper  lip.  The  upper  lip  is  pierced 
first  of  all,  and  the  aperture  is  gradually 
widened,  first  by  the  insertion  of  a  quill 
or  a  long,  round  acacia  thorn  (with  the 
point  removed)  or  a  grass-stem ;  then  of 
some  article  of  greater  size,  such  as  a  ring 
of  bone  or  stone  or  wood,  and  so  on  until 
the  pelele,  a  ring  one  inch  to  one  inch 
and  a  half  in  diameter,  can  be  thrust  into 
this  hole  in  the  upper  lip.  Nothing  could 
r7\      ^^    2  '  ^   more    ugly.      The   pelele   makes   the 

W|4  ^'  various'^phigs,  for  insertion  in     woman's  Hp  project  Until  it  looks  like  a 

W  ;h:t':trir(hari;ufeer    buck's  bin.     it  must  incommode  her  very 


EXAMPLE  OF   PELBLE 
IN    UPPER   UP 


424  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

much  in  eating  and  drinking.     Yet  it  is  a  fashion  not  only  prevalent  amongst 

all  the  A-nyanja,  but  to  some  extent  amongst  the  Yao,  though  in  this  case  I 

think  it  can  only  be  where  the  Yao   woman  is  really  of  A-nyanja  origin. 

It  is  a  custom  not  peculiar  to  British  Central   Africa,  but 

may  be  met  with  in  widely  removed  parts  of  the  continent. 

There  are  few  tribes  within  the  limits  of  the  country 
under  description  which  deliberately  knock  out  any  of  the 
front  teeth  as  is  so  much  the  custom  with  the  people  dwelling 
on  the  Upper  Zambezi  and  within  the  watershed  of  the 
Kafue  river ;  but  I  learn  that  this  practice  prevails  in  some 
tribes  of  North- West  Nyasaland  where  the  two  middle  lower 
incisors  are  knocked  out  at  puberty,  and  that  the  A-nyika  of 
the  same  district  chip  the  upper  incisors  by  means  of  an 
axe.  The  A-lolo  to  the  south-east  of  Nyasaland  file  their  teeth  into  sharp 
points.  This  is  also  done  sometimes  amongst  the  Awemba  Babisa,  and  tribes 
on  the  Upper  Luapula. 

Not  even  the  slave  trade  devastations  and  the  continual  warfare  between 
tribe  and  tribe  for  the  past  two  hundred  years  have  succeeded  in  destroying 
agriculture  amongst  the  British  Central  African  negroes :  though  it  must  be 
admitted  that  many  tribes  have  degenerated  in  the  exercise  of  this  industry 
through  their  harried  existence.  Those  among  whom  agricultural  skill  is  best 
preserved  are  the  Wankonde  of  North  Nyasa  (a  tribe  which  until 
the  recent  invasion  of  the  Arabs  had  enjoyed  centuries  of  un- 
disturbed peace)  and  the  A-nyanja  of  South- West  Nyasaland. 

As  a  rule,  native  agriculture  is  conducted  on  a  heedless 
system,  ruinous  to  the  future  interests  of  the  country.  A  negro 
household  wishes  to  start  a  new  plantation.  The  husband  sallies  another  example 
out  and  selects  a  piece  of  land  in  the  wilderness,  generally  well  ^^  ^"^  reuELE 
forested  and  therefore  offering  indications  of  fertile  soil.  Having  chosen  his 
** estate"  he  lets  other  people  know  it  by  gathering  tufts  of  grass  and  tying 
them  round  the  trees,  so  that  passers-by  may  know  that  the  land  has  been 
"betrothed"  (that  is  often  the  term  used).  Then  he  cuts  the  trees  down 
(leaving  stumps  in  the  ground)  over  the  area  intended  for  cultivation  and  often 
in  addition  pollards  those  standing  round  the  boundaries  of  the  field.  The 
trunks  and  branches  are  left  to  dry  during  the  rainless  season  of  the  year. 
At  the  close  of  the  dry  season  they  are  burnt  and  their  ashes  are  dug  into 
the  soil  which  at  this  time  is  carefully  hoed  up  and  turned  over,  all  weeds  being 
cut  down,  burnt,  and  buried.  By  the  beginning  of  the  wet  season  the  land 
is  ready  for  sowing  with  a  crop  of  maize  or  sorghum.  When  the  com  comes 
up,  the  plants  are  carefully  thinned  and  those  left  are  often  earthed  up  and  are 
separated  one  from  the  other  by  a  space  of  (say)  three  feet  Sometimes 
pumpkins  are  planted  in  the  furrows,  in  between  the  raised  mounds  from  which 
the  cereals  grow. 

Beyond  the  burning  of  the  hewn  trees  and  the  weeds  no  attempt  is  made  to 
manure  the  soil  which,  being  virgin,  yields  a  very  large  crop  and  is  then  greatly 
exhausted.  The  next  year  the  native  cultivator  abandons  the  plantation  of  the 
year  before  and  prepares  another  section  of  forest-land  for  corn-growing  by 
felling  and  burning  the  trees.  The  result  of  this  procedure  is  naturally  the 
gradual  disforesting  of  South  Central  Africa.  Only  in  small  areas  near  a  river 
or  lake,  which  in  the  wet  season  are  marshes  or  at  that  time  of  the  year 
are  under  water  and  enriched  by  the  deposit  of  alluvial  soil,  does  the  negro 


NATIVES  OF  BRITISH   CENTRAL  AFRICA       425 

plant  crops  annually  in  the  same  locality.  With  rare  exceptions  he  has  no  idea 
of  manuring  the  ground  and  so  continuing  to  cultivate  the  same  piece  of  land 
for  ever,  as  would  be  the  case  in  Europe  and  in  most  parts  of  Asia.  Imagine 
what  would  be  the  result  in  other  continents  more  populated  than  Africa  if  year 
by  year  each  family  required  to  transfer  their  cultivation  to  a  different  piece  of 
ground.  What  a  contrast  to  Africa  is  India,  a  mere  peninsula  of  Asia  with 
its  teeming  population  three  times  larger  than  the  total  population  of  Africa^ 
and  yet  for  generations  subsisting  in  the  same  continually  cultivated  soil 
whereon  their  forefathers  dwelt  before  them  !    One  of  the  great  lessons  we  have 


A  \mtsc  woadvn  boe. 

WoutkEi  btt  miller,  for  beating  out 


to  teach  the  Central  African  negro  is  fixity  of  tenure,  the  need  of  settling 
permanently  on  one  piece  of  land,  and,  by  careful  manuring,  the  constant  raising 
of  crops  from  within  a  certain  definite  area.  The  keeping  of  cattle,  pigs,  goats, 
and  sheep  will  assist  in  manuring  the  soil. 

The  Wankonde  are  somewhat  more  careful  in  their  cultivation  than  the 
other  negroes  of  this  territory.  They  carefully  return  all  weeds,  wood-ashes, 
and  village  refuse  into  the  soil,  while  the  grass  and  weeds  growing  on  the  fallow 
land  are  cut  down  and  burnt  in  heaps  ;  or  else  they  are  laid  out  on  the  surface 
of  the  soil  in  long  rows,  the  soil  on  either  side  of  these  layers  of  cut  herbage  is 
dug  into  trenches  or  furrow,  and  what  is  taken  out  is  thrown  on  the  top  of  the 
weeds.     These  then  decay  underneath  and  enrich  the  soil  of  these  raised  beds. 


426  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

The  principal,  almost  the  only,  agricultural  implement  known  is  the  hoe.  A 
sickle  may  be  used  for  cutting  grass,  and  a  wooden  rake  may  possibly  be 
employed  in  very  tidy  and  prosperous  communities  for  smoothing  the  seed 
beds ;  but  the  hoe  fulfils  nearly  all  the  purposes  of  plough  (the  plough  is  quite 
unknown),  harrow,  spade,  pick,  fork,  and  drill.  Nowadays  the  hoes  are  chiefly 
made  of  iron,  but  in  some  of  the  wilder,  remoter,  more  mountainous  tracts  long 
hoes  are  made  of  hard  wood.  In  Tropical  Africa  one  is  inclined  to  believe  that 
an  age  of  wood  was  either  antecedent  to  or  parallel  with  an  age  of  stone,  and 
certainly  preceded  the  age  of  copper  and  iron.  Not  a  few  native  weapons  and 
implements  of  iron  at  the  present  day  still  have  their  wooden  prototypes 
lingering  alongside.  Some  ceremony  is  always  observed  by  the  natives  at  the 
commencement  of  the  hoeing  season,  and  often  at  or  after  harvest.  The 
household  fire  is  extinguished  and  relit  by  making  fire  afresh ;  dances  of 
various  kinds  are  indulged  in. 

The  order  of  crops  is  usually  this : — As  soon  as  the  first  rains  have  fallen 
and  the  ground  is  moist,  pumpkins  and  maize  are  sown ;  then  gourds  and 
cucumbers,  millet  (Mchewere),  sorghum  (Mapira)  and  Eleusine  (Maere);  French 
beans,  large  beans,  small  beans,  peas,  Dhol,^  ground  nuts,  cassava,  sweet 
potatoes  and  rice.  The  pumpkins  ripen  first ;  then  the  maize,  the  cucumbers 
and  gourds.  The  millet,  sorghum,  Eleusine,  and  rice  are  not  harvested  till  June 
or  July.  Then  follows  much  beer  making  (with  the  grain)  and  consequent 
drunkenness.  The  maize  is  eaten  green — raw,  boiled  or  roasted — but  the  bulk 
of  it  is  saved  till  it  ripens  and  it  is  then  consumed  in  the  form  of  "  pop  com  " 
or  flour.  In  certain  favoured  localities  maize  is  grown  in  rotation  all  the  year 
round.  In  the  dry  season  it  is  planted  in  damp  hollows,  on  river  islands,  and 
on  land  by  the  river  banks,  which  is  thoroughly  moist.  Many  other  crops  can 
in  this  way  be  raised  during  the  dry  season  and  but  for  inherent  laziness  the 
negro  of  British  Central  Africa  need  never  be  in  want  of  perpetual  supplies 
of  food. 

The  following  are  the  cereals  and  plants  grown  for  food  or  for  other 
purposes  by  the  natives  of  this  part  of  Africa.  (In  industrious  or  specially 
favoured  districts  all  these  things  may  be  grown ;  but  among  a  lazy  people 
or  where  the  soil  is  poor  and  the  water  supply  defective  the  list  may  be  much 
reduced.)  : — 

CEREALS. 

Sorghum.2     (Latin  :  Sorghum  vulgare.     Common  native  name  "  Mapira.") 

Maize.     Introduced  by  the  Portuguese  into  Zambezia  circa  1570. 

Rice.     Introduced  by  Portuguese  and  Arabs.     The  inferior  red  rice  comes 

from  the  Zambezi ;  the  good  white  rice  is  of  Arab  introduction. 
Millet.      (Latin :    Pennisetmn    typhoideuni    Native    name    in     Chinyanja : 

"  Mchewere,")  probably  introduced  by  the  Portuguese. 
Eleusine.     (Latin  :  Eleusine  coracana.)     Native  name :  **  Maere." 
Wheat.     Introduced  by  the  Portuguese  into  the  Zambezi  Valley ;  and  by 

the  Europeans  into  Nyasaland  and  the  Arabs  to  Tanganyika.     Except 

in  the  Zambezi  Valley  scarcely  grown  at  all  by  the  natives. 

Of  beans  there  are  no  less  than  nine  kinds  cultivated.  One  kind  is  the 
Indian  "  Dhol "  {Cajanus  indicus),  another  is  almost  spherical,  slightly  flattened, 
a  dark  brown  with  a  white  streak  round  the  rim ;    a  third  is  very  large — 

^  Dhol  is  a  small  pease  much  grown  in  India. 

*  The  Durrha  of  the  Sudan.     There  are  nearly  nine  varieties  grown  in  British  Central  Africa, 


NATIVES  OF   BRITISH   CENTRAL  AFRICA       427 


somewhat  like  the  "broad  bean,"  a  fourth  and  fifth  are  small  and  white,  a 
sixth  and  seventh  are  kinds  of  peas,  an  eighth  is  long  and  flat,  and  the  ninth 
is  excellent  eating,  rather  small  but  oblong  and  dark  chocolate-brown.  Probably 
none  of  these  beans  is  indigenous  :  they  are  all  no  doubt  importations  of  ancient 
or  modern  date  from  the  Mediterranean  or  Asiatic  countries.  Some  of  the 
smaller  beans  are  eaten  in  the  pod  like  "  French  beans." 

There  are  two  kinds  of  ground  nut :  the  ordinary  Arachis  hypogcBa  and  the 
large  Voandzeia  subterranea.  The  Cassava  or  Manioc  of  two  or  more  kinds  is 
abundantly  cultivated  and  is  often  made  into  flour.  One  form  of  Cassava  has  a 
root  which  is. without  any  of  the  poisonous  qualities  so  associated  with  this 
Kuphorbiaceous  plant  and  can  be  eaten  raw  without  ill  effects  even  by 
Europeans.  It  has  a  pleasant  nutty  flavour  and  a  creamy  sap.  The  ordinary 
Cassava  is  made  into  flour,  but  the  Missionaries  manufacture  from  it  excellent 
tapioca. 

Sweet  potatoes  are  cultivated  nearly  everywhere.  They  are  palatable  and 
nutritious  food.  As  is  no  doubt  known  to  my  readers  the  sweet  potato  is 
the  tuber  of  a  Convolvulus.  The  common  potato  (Solatium  tuberosum)  has  been 
introduced  by  the  Missionaries  and  thrives  in  the  higher  districts  of  the 
Protectorate.  The  natives  grow  it  for  trade  with  the  European  and  do  not 
much  care  to  eat  it  themselves.  The  Tomato,  a  degenerate  kind,  grows 
semi-wild  round  most  of  the  villages.  Tobacco  is  cultivated  everywhere  and 
so  is  Hemp,  The  latter  is  smoked,  the 
former  usually  taken  in  the  form  of  snuff". 
The  Sugar-cane  is  cultivated  in  the  low- 
lying  regions  near  water:  so  is  the  Sac- 
charine Sorghum,  which  like  the  sugar-cane 
secretes  a  sweet  juice.  As  regards  culti- 
vated CucurbitacecB  there  are  about  five  or 
six  kinds  of  what  we  should  call  "pumpkins" 
or  "vegetable  marrows."  One  of  these  is 
like  the  American  Squash  with  orange-red 
pulp,  another  is  as  delicious  as  any  custard 
marrow  grown  at  home.  Of  cucumbers 
there  are  two  or  three  kinds,  all  very  short 
and  thick  and  one  with  large  prickles  on 
the  rind.  There  is  a  water-melon  (Dzembe 
or  Liembe)  and  there  are  gourds,  more 
grown  for  their  bottle-  or  gazogene-  or 
retort-shaped  rinds  (which  make  admirable 
receptacles,  pipes,  drinking  vessels  and 
bottles)  than  for  their  edible  pulp.  A 
leaves  and  flowers  of  certain   pumpkins. 

universally  cultivated.  Small  sweet  bananas  or  red  bananas  are  not  common 
and  are  of  recent  introduction,  Arab  or  Portuguese.  The  papaw  tree^  is 
fairly  abundant  of  course  as  a  cultivated  tree :  it  is  not  indigenous.  The  Lime 
is  met  with  in  many  villages  but  only  those  under  English,  Portuguese,  or  Arab 
influence.  The  Orange  is  very  rarely  met  with  and  such  trees  as  there  are 
(except  those  on  Mount  Mlanje)  are  of  young  growth.  The  Castor  oil  plant 
is  (seemingly)  indigenous,  though  one  scarcely  meets  with  it  far  from  a  native 
settlement.     It  is  grown  for  the  oil,  which  is  not  used  medicinally  but  chiefly 

*   Caric a  papaya. 


NORTH    NYASA   NATIVE 

smoking  hemp  from  a  pipe  made  out  of  a 

"gazogene-shaped  gourd" 

kind  of  spinach  is  made  from  the 
The  Plantain  or  large  banana  is 


428 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


for  anointing  the  body  and  occasionally  for  cooking.  Oil  derived  from  the 
Sesamum  plant  is  much  used  in  cooking.  The  oil  palm  {ElcBis  guine'ensis)  is 
semi-cultivated  and  grows  wild  in  North -West  Nyasaland,  on  the  south  coast 
of  Tanganyika  and  on  the  Luapula  river.  The  husks  of  its  nuts  express  the 
rich  "  palm  oil "  of  commerce  which  the  natives  of  those  few  parts  of  British 
Central  Africa  where  the  oil  palm  grows,  use  in  their  food  and  cooking  similarly 
to  the  West  African  negroes. 

The  roots  of  the  Borassiis  palm  are  sometimes  eaten  in  seasons  of  scarcity. 

The  seeds  of  the  Itch  bean 
{Mucund)  are  also  roasted  and 
eaten  when  food  crops  are  lack- 
ing, and  the  grains  of  certain  wild 
grasses  allied  to  the  millet  are 
gathered  and  made  into  a  poor 
flour  when  other  resources  fail. 
Several  wild  herbs  furnish  a  kind 
of  spinach,  which  mixed  with  oil 
and  condiments  is  a  favourite 
relish  to  be  eaten  with  the  porridge 
made  of  flour  that  forms  the  staple 
of  their  existence.  Red  peppers 
{capsicums)  are  one  of  the  condi- 
ments referred  to.  Though  of  re- 
latively recent  introduction,  these 
"  chillies,"  both  red  and  green,  are 
found  growing  in  nearly  every 
native  village. 

Some  fifteen  species  of  edible 
and  nutritious  fungi  grow  in 
British  Central  Africa  in  the 
rainy  season  and  are  much  appre- 
ciated by  the  natives.  Many  roots, 
which  I  cannot  identify,  are  de- 
voured ;  the  "heart"  is  cut  out  of 
certain  palms  (/>.,  that  soft  por- 
tion containing  the  undeveloped 
fronds)  and  is  stewed  and  eaten. 
The  roots  of  Trapa  naians,  a 
water  weed,  the  flowers  and  roots 


BANANA  GROVE    (MLANJE) 


of  the  blue  water-lily,  the  leaves  of  the  Protea  shrub,  the  gums  of  certain 
acacias  and  of  papilionaceous  trees,  the  stalks  and  leaves  of  a  bean  [Crotalaria\ 
the  seeds  of  certain  Hibiscuses  are  also  consumed  by  the  natives  in  times  of 
scarcity.  For  fruits  they  have  the  "  plums  "  of  the  Parinarium  and  of  several 
Diospyros  trees  and  shrubs,  the  sweet  "Masuku"  {Uapaca  kirkiana — a  fruit 
something  like  a  medlar  with  orange-coloured  honey-tasting  pulp),  sycomore 
figs,  wild  dates,  "bush  oranges"  (the  fruit  of  several  species  of  Strychnos\ 
custard  apple  (Anofia)  and  the  bright  crimson  seed-vessels  of  the  Amomums. 

Many  more  seeds,  roots,  leaves  and  fruits  than  those  I  have  enumerated  are 
cooked  and  eaten,  and  not  always  because  of  scarcity,  but  because  they  are 
palatable.  It  is,  however,  truly  remarkable — and  here  is  a  trait  characteristic  of 
the  entire  negro  race — that  throughout  the  ages  during  which  the  black  man 


NATIVES  OF  BRITISH   CENTRAL  AFRICA       429 

has  inhabited  Tropical  Africa  he  has  not,  with  one  or  two  doubtful  exceptions, 
cultivated  a  single  indigenous  food  plant  or  domesticated  any  wild  beast  or  bird 
of  his  own  portion  of  the  continent^ 

Of  his  cultivated  plants :  maize,  manioc  (cassava),  sweet  potato,  common 
potato,  tobacco,  tomato,  "  chilli "  (red  and  green)  pepper,  pineapple,  papaw,  y 
yams,  reached  him  from  America.  Although  these  things  are  now  spread  right 
across  Africa  in  their  cultivation  they  are  natives  of  America  and  were  in- 
troduced from  two  to  three  centuries  ago  by  the  Portuguese.^  The  sorghum 
{Holcus,  Durrha)  grain,  the  millet,  the  eleusine,  the  colocasia  (arum)  yam,  and 
the  banana,  the  oldest  of  his  cultivated  plants,  are  natives  of  the  Mediterranean 
basin,  the  Nile  valley,  or  Tropical  Asia,  were  first  cultivated  (on  African  soil) 
by  the  Ancient  Egyptians,  and  reached  the  negro  by  slow  descent  from  Egypt 
Sugar-cane,  rice,  wheat,  oranges,  limes,  cucumbers,  melons,  pumpkins,  gourds, 
onions,  not  improbably  the  castor  oil  plant,  the  Datura,  hemp  (from  India)  and 
most  peas  and  beans  were  first  introduced  by  Arabs  and  were  re-introduced  by 
the  Portuguese.  The  coffee  shrub,  though  indigenous  1q  Airica,onlyi_was^  not  .5?  7  7  ? 
cultivntrri  till  thr  i^rnbn  Ahjn-iininni^Pnrtu^^nr^r  nnd  English  took  it  in  hand.~'  ^  r  *  '''i 
Ihecocoanut  was  introduced  from  Asia,  the  edible  date  palm  Trom  the  Mediter- 
ranean basin.^  The^  oil  palm  of  West  Africa  and  Nyasaland  is  not  cultivated 
— no  trouble  has  been  taken  to  improve  it.  The  only  doubtful  exceptions 
to  this  rule  are.  the  ground  nuts  {Arackis  and  Voandseia)  which  may  be 
indigenous  to  Africa,*  and  certain  semi-cultivated  beans  of  the  genera  Tephrosia 
and  Crotalaria,  which  the  native  tolerates  in  his  plantations  rather  than 
deliberately  cultivates.  The  Sesamum  plant,  the  seeds  of  which  produce  such 
a  fine  oil,  is  probably  in  its  cultivated  form  an  introduction  from  Egypt  or 
India.  Indigo  and  possibly  cotton  are  indigenous  but  what  has  the  native 
done  to  improve  them  by  cultivation  ? 

I  am  not  of  course  referring  to  the  negroes  of  British  South  Africa  or 
Portuguese  East  and  West  Africa  or  those  under  French  tutelage  or  Arab  or 
Abyssinian  or  Berber  rule,  or  to  the  mixed  races  between  negro  and  Arab, 
Egyptian,  Abyssinian,  Libyan  or  Berber.  I  am  dealing  with  the  pure  negro 
uninfluenced  and  unmixed  as  you  find  him  throughout  Tropical  Africa  between 
the  Sahara  and  Cape  Colony. 

The  Domestic  animals  of  the  Central  African  negro  are  the  following :  the 
ox,  sheep,  goat,  dog,  cat,  fowl,  muscovy  duck  and  pigeon.  It  is  hardly  correct 
to  include  the  pig,  because  pigs  are  only  kept  where  they  have  been  introduced 
by  Portuguese  or  British  and  are  not  popular  as  domestic  animals.  The  cattle 
are  almost  always  of  the  Indian  Zebu  type,  with  the  tendency  to  develop  a 
hump,  a  dewlap,  and  short  thick  horns.  But  the  Angoni-Zulus  on  the  plateaux, 
west  of  Lake  Nyasa,  have  a  few  cattle  of  the  southern  type  which  are  recent 
introductions  from  across  the  Zambezi.  Though  dwarfed  in  size  they  are  like 
Cape  cattle,  with  long  horns  and  straight  backs  and  without  dewlaps.  Another 
difference  between  these  two  breeds  of  cattle  lies  in  the  coloration.  As  a 
rule,  the  long-horned  variety  is  unicoloured,  dun,  chestnut,  greyish -white, 
"strawberry,"  or  bluish-grey.  The  humped  or  short-horned  kind  is  most 
commonly  black,  or  black  and  white,  or  grey,  dun,  chestnut  and  white ;  nearly 

^  I  am  referring  of  course  to  the  pure-blooded  negro,  uninfluenced  by  the  Semite  or  European. 

*  With  the  exception  of  the  common  potato  which  has  been  quite  recently  brought  in  by  the  English.       '^ 
'  Though  several  wild  species  of  date  grow  abundantly  in  Tropical  Africa  no  one  of  them  has  ever 

been  cultivated  by  the  natives. 

*  Some  think  that  these  ground  nuts  came  from  America.     Their  cultivation  in  Tropical  Africa    ^ 
is  very  partial. 


430  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

always  parti-coloured,  with  white  as  one  of  the  ingredients.  Of  course  on  the 
borderland  the  two  breeds  occasionally  intermix,  forming  types  of  mingled 
characteristics.  As  a  rule,  the  long-horned  kind  is  large  and  the  short-homed 
small ;  though  through  lack  of  attention  in  breeding  and  other  causes  of 
degeneration  the  long-horned  breed  may  become  dwarfed  while  the  short-horned 
humped  cattle  under  favourable  circumstances  may  incresise  in  average  size. 
Sir  John  Kirk  found  a  very  small  breed  of  (I  think)  humped  cattle  in  the 
Batoka  Highlands  (Central  Zambezi) :  the  Angoni  long-horned  cattle  west  of 
Lake  Nyasa  are  small ;  the  humped  cattle  of  North  Nyasa  and  the  Yao  country 
are  large  and  handsome. 

The  same  interruption  in  the  distribution  of  the  long-homed  breed  of 
domestic  cattle  occurs  in  South -Central  Africa  which  is  characteristic  of  the 
range  of  so  mamy  wild  animals. 

In  much  of  the  Egyptian  Sudan,  Abyssinia,  Galla-land,  the  Central  Sudan, 
Nigeria,  and  Senegambia  the  long-horned  cattle  predominate.  They  reappear 
again  in  South- West  Africa  and  in  Africa  south  of  the  Zambezi,  where  they  are 
either  the  exclusive  or  the  predominating  race.  On  the  other  hand  in  East 
Africa,  Mozambique,  British  Central  Africa,  the  Congo  Basin,  Angola,  the 
West  Coast  of  Africa,  and  Lower  Niger  the  humped  short-horned  cattle  are 
the  only  kind  seen  with  rare  exceptions. 

The  humped  cattle  found  in  British  Central  Africa  originally  entered  that 
country  from  the  north  and  are  the  direct  descendants  of  the  domestic  cattle 
of  the  Ancient  Egyptians  which  appear  to  have  been  derived  from  Asia.  They 
resemble  very  strongly  the  domestic  cattle  of  India.  Until  our  administration 
of  the  country  commenced,  cattle  were  not  widely  kept  by  the  natives  of  the 
eastern  part  of  British  Central  Africa,  partly  owing  to  the  tsetse-fly  and  the 
dread  of  attracting  raiders.  The  following  tribes  and  districts  in  1891  possessed 
domestic  cattle :  there  were  a  few  in  the  countries  round  Lake  Bangweolo  and 
in  the  Lunda  Kingdom  near  the  south  end  of  Lake  Mweru,  but  very  few,  owning 
to  the  tsetse-fly.  The  Awemba  on  the  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau  kept  large 
herds.  Cattle  to  a  less  extent  were  present  in  the  villages  to  the  east  of  the 
Tanganyika  plateau  and  thence  onwards  to  the  Uhehe  country.  The  Wankonde 
people  of  North  Nyasa  were  and  are  great  cattle  keepers  and  evidently  had 
been  for  untold  generations.  The  Angoni  and  Achewa  on  the  high  plateaux 
west  of  Lake  Nyasa,  and  thence  right  away  down  to  within  the  Zambezi  Basin 
were  abundantly  supplied  with  cattle.  There  were  a  few  kept  by  the  Arabs 
at  Kotakota  and  one  herd  by  Mponda,  the  Yao  chief  in  South  Nyasa. 
In  the  Shire  Highlands  a  few  head  of  cattle  were  to  be  seen  at  the  villages 
of  the  more  important  Yao  chiefs,  and  in  Yaoland  proper  (east  of  Lake  Nyasa) 
and  on  the  whole  eastern  shore  of  the  lake  (among  the  Wayao,  Anyanja  and 
Wangindo),  wherever  Yao  or  Zulu  raiders  permitted. 

Nowadays,  the  Awemba  of  the  Tanganyika  plateau  have  lost  most  of  their 
cattle  from  the  rinderpest,  a  disease  which  also  decimated  the  Wankonde  herds 
but  fortunately  spared  the  rest  of  the  Protectorate.^  On  the  other  hand  cattle- 
keeping  in  Angoniland,  on  the  Upper  Shire  and  in  the  Shire  Highlands  has 
greatly  increased  owing  to  the  prevention  of  raids  and  the  spread  of  prosperity. 
Of  course  the  Europeans  now  settled  in  the  Shire  province  keep  cattle  to  a 
large  extent. 

With  most  of  the  tribes  in   British  Central  Africa  the  keeping  of  cattle 

^  When  it  made  its  appearance  in  the  north  we  put  a  rigid  cordon  on  the  entry  of  infected  cattle  till 
the  disease  was  over. 


NATIVES  OF  BRITISH   CENTRAL  AFRICA       431 

is  an  accident,  an  appanage  of  chieftainship ;  but  with  the  Wankonde  at  the 
north  end  of  Lake  Nyasa  it  is  a  matter  of  national  existence.  Their  cattle 
are  supreme  in  the  place  they  occupy  in  the  life  and  habits  of  the  people 
Elsewhere  in  Central  Africa  though  cattle  may  be  kept  and  occasionally  eaten^ 
they  are  not  milked  any  more  than  are  the  goats.  To  most  of  these  Central 
African  negroes  it  is  disgusting  to  drink  milk.  But  with  the  Wankonde  milk 
is  an  important  article  of  diet.  Milking  is  only  performed  by  men  :  women 
are  not  allowed  to  have  anything  to  do  with  the  cattle.  Milk  is  not  drunk 
fresh  but  curdled.  They  wait  till  they  can  separate  whey  from  curd  ;  the 
former  is  drunk,  the  latter  eaten  by  means  of  spoons  made  of  leaves.     The 


WANKONDE  CATTLE 


urine  of  the  cows  is  not  thought  unclean.  Occasionally  it  is  mixed  with  the 
milk  and  drunk  ;  milk-pots  are  washed  in  it ;  and  the  cowherds  often  wash 
themselves  in  the  cow's  urine.  After  the  birth  of  a  calf  it  is  said  that  the 
herd  wishing  to  ingratiate  himself  with  the  cow,  wraps  the  placenta  round  him. 
The  cow  will  then  follow  him  anywhere.  Cattle  certainly  become  extra- 
ordinarily attached  to  their  Wankonde  herdsmen  and  these  people  are  in 
much  request  as  cattle-tenders  in  the  Shire  province.  Cow-dung  is  preserved, 
chiefly  for  washing  out  and  purifying  the  interiors  of  huts  (mixed  with  water) 
as  an  insectifuge ;  also  to  bind  plaster  and  mud  on  the  walls  and  floors.  It 
is  burnt  to  drive  away  mosquitoes,  but  is  not  used  for  manure  except  that 
tobacco  may  be  planted  on  a  dung-heap. 

The  ears  of  Nkonde  cattle  are  cropped  and  notched  according  to  the  owner\s 
private  mark.     Many  of  the  cows  have  wooden  bells  on  the  necks,  and  it  is 


432  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

delightful  in  the  beautiful  Nkonde  and  Bundale  mountains  to  hear  the  tinkle- 
tinkle  which  reminds  one  so  of  Switzerland.  Cattle  in  this  country  (Nkonde) 
are  killed  by  pole-axeing,  ordinarily;  sometimes  by  running  a  spear  into  the 
heart.  Elsewhere  in  Nyasaland  they  are  usually  thrown  and  their  throats  are 
cut,  or  they  are  shot  and  speared.  Amongst  the  Wayao  cattle  are  extremely 
wild. 

The  Wankonde  house  their  cattle  in  long  rectangular  buildings,  well  and 
strongly  built  of  stout  poles.  The  Yao  and  Angoni  usually  drive  their  cattle  at 
night  into  unroofed  kraals — enclosures  with  a  very  high,  strong  fence  of  young 
trees  placed  closely  together  two  or  three  deep.  The  approach  to  the  fence  is 
also  defended  by  thorn  branches. 

Amongst  most  of  the  tribes  which  possess  guns,  long  powder-horns  are  used 
made  of  the  horns  of  oxen.  These  very  long  horns  are  said  to  come  either  from 
the  countries  south  of  the  Zambezi  or  from  Madagascar  (where  the  cattle  are  of 
the  long-homed  breed),  whence  they  are  exported  to  the  East  Coast  of  Africa. 

The  domestic  sheep  of  South-Central  Africa  is  of  the  hairy  kind  :  like  the 
sheep  of  Syria.  Persia  and  India  it  develops  no  wool.  Originally  this  hairy  type 
of  domestic  sheep  was  the  fat-tailed  variety  found  in  Asia,  North-East  and 
East  Africa  and  South  Africa.  In  Western  and  West-Central  Africa  the  fat- 
tailed  sheep  lost  its  fat  tail  which  became  a  very  thin  appendage,  and  developed 
instead  of  a  dewlap  in  the  male  a  long  mane  extending  from  the  throat  to  the 
chest.  In  British  Central  Africa  the  two  breeds  of  fat-tailed  and  maned  sheep 
have  mixed.  Few  or  no  examples  are  found  with  either  a  pronounced  mane  or 
a  very  fat  tail.  A  variety  is  occasionally  met  with  which  is  of  considerable  size 
and  is  tall  on  the  legs.  Many  sheep  are  black  and  white  (with  black  heads — 
like  Persian  sheep) ;  others  are  almost  the  colour  of  the  mouflon  or  are  grey, 
white  or  yellow.  The  development  of  horns  in  the  male  is  seldom  large  ;  in  the 
female  horns  are  often  wanting.  The  mutton  they  provide  for  the  table  is 
excellent y  much  superior  to  that  of  the  Indian  sheep. 

But  the  little  African  goat  is  a  universal  favourite.  In  this  country  it  and 
not  the  dog  \s  "the  friend  of  man,"  plump,  sleek,  tame,  friendly,  intelligent, 
cheerful.  The  goat  is  found  in  all  the  villages  even  where  no  other  domestic 
animals  are  kept,  and  is  much  petted  by  the  natives.  Intellectually  it  differs 
from  the  sheep  as  a  cheery  London  boy  from  a  heavy-minded  rustic.  The  goat 
in  Africa  is  an  optimist ;  the  sheep  a  melancholy  baaing  pessimist.  The  goat  will 
make  himself  comfortable  under  all  circumstances,  and  quite  identify  himself 
with  the  fortunes  of  his  human  companions ;  the  sheep  will  hasten  its  death  by 
loud  lamentations,  by  bolting  into  the  bush  and  being  devoured  by  a  leopard, 
or  by  incontinently  falling  sick  when  worn  out  with  lamentations  on  its  sad  lot 
in  life.  The  young  and  the  female  goats  are  good  to  eat— -the  flesh  of  a  young 
kid  being  excellent ;  but  it  is  as  milk -producers  that  the  female  goats  are 
so  valuable  and  admirable.  Their  yield  is  not  heavy  but  the  quality  is  very 
rich.  Goats  will  accompany  a  caravan  on  the  march  and  give  no  trouble ; 
stopping  when  the  men  stop ;  going  on  when  the  journey  is  resumed  ;  feeding 
and  chewing  the  cud  in  the  intervals  of  rest  and  always  ready  and  willing  to  be 
milked.  In  1889-90  a  couple  of  goats  travelled  the  whole  way  with  me  from 
Mozambique  to  Tanganyika  and  back.  To  one  who  like  myself  cannot  get  on 
without  tea  and  coffee,  cannot  drink  them  without  milk,  yet  loathes  tinned  milk 
with  all  his  soul,  think  what  a  comfort  it  must  be  to  have  a  perambulating 
supply  of  rich  milk  walking  along  with  you,  giving  no  trouble  and  feeding  itself 
as  it   goes.     So   great    is   the   debt   which    all    European   explorers,  pioneers. 


NATIVES  OF  BRITISH   CENTRAL  AFRICA       433 

missionaries,  planters,  and  settlers  in  Africa  owe  to  the  cheery  little  African 
goat  that  I  have  often  thought  a  gold  medal  should  be  subscribed  for  and 
at  some  public  festival  be  hung  round  the  neck  of  a  representative  clear-eyed, 
spruce,  clean,  plump  and  friendly  nanny-goat  in  token  of  all  we  owe  to  her  kind 
for  solace  in  sickness  and  comfort  in  health. 

The  African  goat  is  usually  small,  short  on  the  legs,  very  plump,  with  erect  ears, 
short  horns,  and  (as  a  rule)  short  hair.  The  beard  in  the  males  is  not  long.  In 
the  females  it  is  often  absent  or  is  replaced  by  two  sn\all  pendulous  wattles. 
Some  of  the  old  '*  billies  "  develop  a  great  growth  of  hair  about  the  throat  and 
neck,  looking  almost  like  the  Thar  goat  of  India.^ 


THE   DOMESTIC  GOAT  OF  SOUTH   AND  CENTRAL  AFRICA 


The  wild  species  of  goat,  to  which  the  domestic  animal  of  Tropical  Africa 
bears  the  most  resemblance,  is  the  Cretan  Ibex. 

The  dog  of  Central  Africa  is  the  usual  small  fox-coloured  pariah  with  erect 
ears  and  jackal-like  head.  The  tail  which  is  generally  long  and  smooth  is 
sometimes  carried  over  the  back.  Sometimes  the  colour  is  mottled — brown  and 
white,  or  black  and  tan,  or  black  and  white.  Still,  where  these  piebald  tints  are 
found  there  is  reason  to  suspect  intermixture  with  foreign  breeds,  the  usual 
African  type  of  the  pariah  dog  being  a  uniform  fox-colour.  I  have  sometimes 
fancied  I  saw  native  hunters  using  a  smaller  breed  of  dogs  with  short  legs  for 
terriers'  work,  but  I  have  never  actually  ascertained  that  there  is  such  a  breed. 
Dogs  are  used  a  good  deal  for  hunting  small  game.  I  have  never  heard  of  their 
being  employed  as  in  South  Africa  to  tackle  big  animals  and  bring  them  to 

^  Which  is  not  a  true  goat,  but  a  different  genus — Hemitragtts.  Of  course  the  resemblance  is 
accidental. 

28 


434  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

bay.  This  African  pariah  dog  has  a  certain  attachment  to  its  native  master,  but 
it  is  always  suspicious,  furtive  and  cringing.  Europeans  they  dread  strangely, 
but  though  they  growl  angrily  they  are  much  too  cowardly  to  bite.  They  have 
one  good  negative  quality :  they  cannot  bark. 

The  domestic  cat  is  (unless  in  or  near  European  settlements)  of  that  lanky, 
thin-tailed,  small-headed  Indian  type.  It  is  evidently  closely  related  to  the 
wild  native  cat  {Felis  Caffrd)  with  which  it  freely  interbreeds.  The  cat  is  by 
no  means  universally  met  with  as  a  domestic  animal  in  Central  Africa.  There 
is  always  a  suspicion  about  its  being  a  foreign  introduction  from  Europe,  India, 
or  North-East  Africa. 

The  domestic  fowl  is  a  most  useful  bird.  It  is  small — not  much  larger  than 
a  bantam — short- legged,^  inclining  to  the  game-cock  breed  but  for  its  full  comb. 
This  bird  can  be  excellent  eating  if  a  little  attention  is  paid  to  its  fattening.  It 
is  not  a  good  layer  from  our  point  of  view,  the  hens  laying  about  every  two  or 
three  days  for  some  eight  months  in  the  year.  They  sit  well  and  are  good 
mothers,  especially  in  rearing  foster-children  such  as  young  turkeys,  geese,  or 
ducks. 

There  is  no  such  thing  as  a  domestic  goose  throughout  all  Africa  (except  in 
European  settlements)  from  the  borders  of  Egypt  to  the  Cape.  The  Portuguese 
have  in  their  East  and  West  African  possessions  done  much  to  try  and  domesti- 
cate the  spur-winged  goose  and  the  Vulpanser?  but  the  idea  has  not  caught  on 
among  the  natives.  The  Muscovy  duck,  introduced  by  the  Portuguese  from 
Brazil,  has,  however,  come  into  favour  among  the  negroes  of  Nyasaland, 
Mozambique,  East  Africa,  West  Africa,  and  the  Congo  Basin  as  a  domestic 
bird. 

The  common  blue  pigeon  (with  white,  mottled,  dark-slate-coloured  and  fawn 
varieties)  is  kept  as  a  domestic  bird  in  the  Shire  Highlands,  on  the  east  and 
west  coasts  of  Nyasa,  and  on  part  of  the  Nyasa  Tanganyika  plateau  and  the 
south  coast  of  Tanganyika  ;  also  in  all  the  Arab  settlements.  But  it  is  not 
found  far  away  from  villages  which  are  in  touch  with  European  or  Arab 
civilisation. 

From  the  foregoing  list  (which  with  the  addition  of  the  horse,  donkey,  camel 
pig,  and  turkey  may  be  made  in  varying  degree  to  apply  to  all  Tropical  Africa) 
it  will  be  seen  that  as  in  plants  so  in  animals  nothing  indigenous  has  been 
tamed,  adapted,  cultivated  by  the  negro. 

With  the  exception  of  the  donkey  all  the  beasts  and  birds  above  enumerated 
are  Asiatic,  European,  or  American  in  their  origin.  Cattle,  goats,  sheep,  came 
down  through  Egypt  in  very  ancient  time.  Earlier  still  from  Arabia  and  India 
came  the  pariah  dog. 

The  pig  was  introduced  by  the  Portuguese. 

The  cat  was  brought  here  (probably  from  India)  by  the  Arabs  and  Portu- 
guese. Farther  north  in  Tropical  Africa  the  cat  may  have  found  its  way 
southwards  and  westwards  from  Egypt.  From  Egypt  also  came  the  domestic 
fowl.^  The  Muscovy  duck  and  turkey  were  introduced  by  the  Portuguese  ;  and 
the  same  people,  together  with  the  Arabs,  brought  the  pigeon. 

The  very  guinea  fowl,  though  domesticated  after  a  fashion  by  the  Berbers, 
Libyans,  Egyptians  and  Arabs  in  the  early  part  of  the  Christian  era,  and  by 

^  Except  where  infected  by  that  awful  long-legged  Indian  variety  introduced  by  the  Arabs  and 
Portuguese. 

■•*  "Egyptian  goose,'*  ** Zambezi  duck"— a  bird  which  is  a  connecting-link  between  the  ducks  and 
geese. 

^  Which  the  Egyptians  received  from  Persia  and  the  Persians  from  India. 


NATIVES  OF  BRITISH   CENTRAL  AFRICA       435 

them  passed  on  to  the  Roman  world,  remains  undomesticated  to  this  day 
in  Negro  Africa. 

The  donkey,  though  derived  from  the  wild  ass  of  Abyssinia,  Nubia,  and 
Galaland,  is  really  only  tamed  by  people  of  Hamitic  or  Semitic  stock  or  inter- 
mixture, and  by  these  is  passed  on  in  a  domesticated  state  to  East  Africa.  The 
negroes,  who  may  have  herds  of  these  tame  asses,  cannot  domesticate  the  zebra. 
They  may  be  devoted  to  cattle-keeping,  yet  it  never  enters  their  heads  to  utilise 
the  buffalo  or  eland  of  their  own  land.  The  w^ild  dogs  and  cats  of  Tropical 
Africa,  the  gazelles,  antelopes,  wild  swine,  giraffe,  elephant ;  the  guinea  fowl, 
francolin,  turtle  doves,  cranes,  hawks,  duck,  geese,  and  ostrich  are  all  capable 
of  domestication,  but  the  negro  makes  no  effort,  expresses  no  desire  to  under- 
take this  task,  though  by  subduing  and  utilising  these  beasts  and  birds  he 
might  add  enormously  to  his  material  wealth  and  comfort 

Hunting  in  this  part  of  Africa  is  not  carried  on  with  quite  the  same  vigour 
as  in  the  countries  to  the  south  of  the  Zambezi  or  west  of  the  River  Kafue  : 
no  doubt  because  it  is  more  densely  wooded.  Before  guns  were  introduced  in 
the  last  century  the  natives  usually  dug  large  pits  along  the  elephant  tracks 
which  they  skilfully  covered  with  branches  and  grass.  The  elephants  were 
then  driven  in  that  direction  by  shouts  or  bush  fires,  and  one  or  more  of  the 
huge  beasts  would  fall  into  the  pit  and  remain  at  the  mercy  of  its  captors  who 
killed  it  with  spears.  Or  bolder  hunters  might  steal  up  to  a  drowsy  elephant  in 
the  noonday  and  ham-string  him  by  cutting  the  tendons  of  the  heel.  Then  he 
would  be  done  to  death  with  spears  and  arrows.  Others  again  might  be  killed 
by  poisoned  arrows :  but  with  all  these  ways  (similar  no  doubt  to  those  w^hich 
primeval  man  employed  with  the  mammoth  and  mastodon)  no  large  number 
of  elephants  were  killed  until  guns  were  introduced,  and  then  the  steady 
diminution  of  the  elephants  commenced. 

Lions  and  leopards  would  not  (in  those  days  before  guns)  be  tackled  except 
under  great  provocation.  The  buffalo  and  rhinoceros  were  let  alone  (the 
rhinoceros  was  and  is  much  dreaded),  the  larger  antelopes  and  zebras  were 
driven  by  huge  numbers  of  men  ("  Bua,"  the  hunt,  as  it  was  called)  towards 
converging  hedges  of  stout  wattles  often  built  for  miles,  and  when  massed 
together  in  a  cul-de-sac  (which  sometimes  ended  in  a  huge  pit)  were  speared  or 
clubbed.  The  smaller  antelope  and  rodents  were  and  are  pursued  by  dogs  and 
are  also  netted.  [Nets  are  put  up  like  a  converging  fence  and  the  bushbuck  or 
other  small  antelopes  are  driven  into  them  and  become  entangled.]  Birds 
were  shot  with  arrows  or  were  limed.  [Bird-lime  is  made  from  sticky  sap 
and  is  used  not  only  for  catching  birds  but  large  insects.]  But  as  a  rule  the 
natives  cared  and  care  still  little  for  the  flesh  of  birds. 

The  hippopotamus  is  harpooned  by  some  tribes.^  They  pursue  him  in 
canoes  with  a  long  heavy  spear,  the  base  of  the  blade  being  prolonged  into 
spikes  on  either  side  of  the  haft  so  that  it  enters  the  body  easily  but  cannot 
be  drawn  out  This  harpoon  is  of  course  attached  to  a  stout  rope.  But  the 
sport  is  a  dangerous  one.  The  hippopotamus  is  also  killed  in  traps.  A  sharp, 
heavy  spear  is  poised  (weighted  with  a  big  beam)  over  the  path  along  which 
he  goes  to  feed,  and  is  held  up  in  such  a  way  by  ropes  that  when  the  hippo- 
potamus moves  a  rope  the  spear  falls  and  usually  severs  the  spine  or  penetrates 

*  There  are  certain  castes  of  Zambezi  people  who  make  hippopotamus  hunting  a  profession  and 
travel  far  and  wide  for  the  purpose.  They  are  a  very  civil  folk,  always  careful  to  ask  permission  from 
the  "  lord  of  the  manor,"  from  the  chief  of  the  waterside,  to  whom  they  scrupulously  hand  over  a  proportion 
of  the  flesh  and  the  ivory. 


436  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

some  vital  part.  These  hippopotamus  traps  are  common  sights  in  the  natives' 
plantations  by  the  river  side  or  on  the  lake  shore. 

Birds  and  small  mammals  are  caught  in  a  running  noose,  or  clever  little 
traps  are  made  for  the  same  purpose. 

"The  old  order  changeth,"  however,  and  most  forms  of  native  sport  are 
being  brought  to  the  dead  level  of  gunnery.  This  induces  more  selfishness 
than  formerly,  when  successful  hunting  was  a  matter  which  depended  on 
the  friendly  co-operation  of  large  numbers  of  men.  Formerly  a  rigid  etiquette 
was  observed  in  the  killing  of  game.  No  stranger  would  attempt  to  hunt  in  a 
country  which  was  not  his  without  first  obtaining  the  chief's  permission ;  and 
when  successful  a  portion  of  the  meat  was  sent  to  the  chief  or  the  proprietor 
of  the  land  as  a  present  or  tribute.  The  "ground  tusk"  of  elephants  was 
always  given  to  the  chief,  also  the  skins  of  lions  or  leopards,  both  by  strangers 
and  by  his  own  subjects.  In  many  of  these  tribes  it  is  a  treasonable  offence 
for  any  one  but  a  chief  to  sit  on  a  lion  or  leopard  skin. 

Fishing  is  carried  on  by  the  rod  and  line  (possibly  learnt  from  Europeans), 
by  netting,  and  by  erecting  fish  weirs  and  basket  traps ;  also  by  poisoning  the 
water  and  stupefying  the  fish  in  certain  still  or  stagnant  river  pools.  The  fish 
baskets  are  often  cleverly  constructed  with  long  recurved  strips  of  bamboo 
arranged  in  the  neck  of  a  funnel.  The  fish  forces  its  way  in  after  the  bait  and 
cannot  return.  The  netting  is  usually  done  with  large  seines,  though  I  have 
seen  hand  nets  used. 

The  preceding  remarks  on  cultivated  and  wild  fruits,  grains,  and  vegetables, 
on  domestic  animals  and  the  beast  of  the  chase  will  have  given  a  fairly  compre- 
hensive description  of  the  natives'  dietary.  To  complete  it  I  have  only  to  add 
that  in  some  tribes  (especially  among  the  women)  and  in  some  districts  there  is 
a  craving  for  argillaceous  clay,  which  they  eat  with  (I  imagine)  results  that  are 
eventually  fatal;  and  further  that  they  consume  with  gusto  certain  insects: 
these  are  the  flying  white  ants,  the  "  Kungu  "  fly  of  Lake  Nyasa,  large  beetle 
grubs,  caterpillars,  and  locusts.  The  white  ants  are  roasted  wings  and  all,  dried 
in  the  sun,  pounded  in  a  mortar  and  made  into  cakes,  which  are  eaten  as  a 
relish.  The  minute  "Kungu  "  fly  (which  rises  from  the  water  of  Lake  Nyasa  in 
the  dry  season  in  dense  clouds)  is  treated  in  the  same  way.  It  flies  against 
mats  which  are  hung  up,  is  swept  off,  packed  into  oily  cakes,  roasted,  and  eaten. 
I  believe  in  some  districts  the  grubs  of  bees  are  eaten,  taken  from  the  honey- 
comb. Most  of  these  insects  are  served  up  as  a  relish  to  be  eaten  with  the 
porridge.  In  the  same  way  small  fish  are  dried,  mixed  with  salt  and  pounded 
into  a  paste.  Honey  is  much  appreciated.  In  some  districts  hives  are  made 
of  bark  and  placed  in  the  trees  near  a  village  for  the  wild  bees  to  build  in.  The 
quality  of  the  honey  depends  on  the  prevailing  flowers  from  which  the  bees 
draw  their  supplies.  Occasionally  it  is  white,  firm,  and  exquisitely  flavoured. 
The  natives  of  the  West  Shire  district  (where  much  honey  and  wax  are 
collected)  make  a  kind  of  mead  from  the  honey,  which  is  diluted  with  water 
and  fermented. 

Farinaceous  food  is  the  mainstay  of  the  Central  African  negro  and  is  chiefly 
eaten  in  the  form  of  porridge — the  Ugali  of  the  Yao  and  Swahili ;  the  Nsima 
of  the  A-nyanja,  A-mambwe,  A-lungu,  A-senga,  and  Aba-bisa ;  the  Ikindi  of 
the  Wankonde.  This  is  made  ordinarily  of  the  flour  of  Sorghum,^  maize, 
cassava,   or    banana ;    nearly   always    of   Sorghum,    however.      The   grain    is 

*  To  give  my  readers  some  idea  of  what  Sorghum  grain  is  like  I  might  say  it  is  similar  to  a  huge 
millet  seed,  nearly  round,  about  the  size  of  swan  shot. 


NATIVES  OF  BRITISH   CENTRAL  AFRICA       437 

softened  with  water,  pounded  in  a  large  wooden  mortar,  winnowed  in  long 
flat  baskets,  then  ground  to  flour  by  a  smooth  stone  working  on  the  flat 
smooth  surface  of  a  much  larger  block  of  stone.  The  flour  thus  made  is 
whitish-grey — sometimes  pure  white — and  feels  more  granular  to  the  touch 
than  would  be  the  case  with  mill-ground  wheat  flour.  It  is  said  that  the 
trituration  between  the  stone  surfaces  causes  minute  particles  of  stone  to 
mix  with  the  flour  (as  must  be  the  case  since  the  nether  stone  is  soon  worn  into 
a  hollow  by  the  process),  and  that  this  slight  admixture  of  grit  has  a  very  bad 
effect  on  the  digestive  organs  of  Europeans  and  Indians.  Certainly  neither  can 
eat  "  ufa "  ^  (as  the  native  fldur  is  called)  long  without  getting  diarrhoea  or 
dysentery. 

The  flour  made  from  various  farinaceous  substances  is  mixed  with  water  and 
boiled  in  a  pot,  being  constantly  stirred  with  a  stick  to  prevent  lumps  forming. 
When  it  is  cool  it  is  rolled  into  balls  with  the  fingers  and  eaten  usually  with  a 
relish  2 — fish,  fowl,  meat  of  any  kind,  spinach  made  from  various  leaves  or 
flowers,  white  ants,  etc. 

Rice  is  boiled  in  a  measured  quantity  of  water  in  a  covered  pot  until  the 
water  is  all  absorbed  by  the  swelled  grain,  which  is  thus  "  steamed.'*  Those 
natives  to  whom  rice  is  known  cook  it  admirably.  Indian  corn  if  it  be  not 
made  into  porridge  or  boiled  or  roasted  on  the  cob,*  is  (when  the  grain  is  old) 
held  over  the  fire  on  a  tin  plate  or  dish  cover  until  it  is  parched  into  "pop  corn." 
when  it  is  eaten  with  much  gusto.  This  is  usually  the  way  of  feeding  during 
a  hurried  march. 

Millet  and  eleusine*  grains  are  usually  reserved  for  making  beer.  For  this 
purpose,  too,  large  quantities  of  sorghum  and  maize  are  used.  The  grain  is 
soaked  till  it  sprouts.  Then  it  is  pounded  and  thrown  into  a  large  pot  of 
boiling  water,  to  which  is  also  added  a  thickening  of  flour  to  give  body  to  the 
beer.  After  boiling  and  straining  the  beer  is  poured  out  into  pots  or  huge  jars 
of  basket  work  so  tightly  knit  as  to  hold  liquids.  The  beer  must  stand  for 
a  day  and  then  it  is  fit  for  drinking,  but  after  about  four  days  it  is  sour  and 
unwholesome.  Sometimes  bran,  gruel  of  flour  and  water,  half  pounded  corn, 
and  the  malt  made  from  the  germinating  grain  are  all  mixed  together,  and  form 
a  sweet  thick  beer  full  of  nutriment.  Sick  or  convalescent  people  are  fed  on 
this.  Some  chiefs  at  the  south  end  of  Tanganyika  scarcely  take  any  other  food 
than  this  beer-gruel  and  grow  fat  on  it. 

The  sap  of  most  of  the  palms  is  tapped  and  drunk  as  a  sweet  heady  drink, 
which  when  quite  fresh  from  the  tree  (palm  wine)  is  not  intoxicating  but 
becomes  very  alcoholic  after  fermentation.  Milk  is  the  favourite  food  in  North- 
West  Nyasaland.  It  is  also  drunk  in  the  Awemba  country,  and  round  Lake 
Bangweolo.  On  the  other  hand  it  is  ignored  or  disliked  by  the  Yao  and  the 
A-nyanja  peoples.  No  tribe  within  the  confines  of  this  territory  makes  any 
form  of  butter  or  ghi  out  of  the  milk  except  the  Arabs  and  their  followers. 
Wherever  Arabs  are  settled  a  supply  of  milk  may  almost  always  be  counted 
on.     Eggs  are  seldom  eaten  and  then  usually  when  they  have  been  sat  on  for 

*  Ufa  of  many  Nyasa  tribes,  Usu  of  South  Tanganyika,  Utaiidi  of  the  Wa-yao,  Uivuftt  of  the 
Wankonde,    Unga  of  the  Swahili. 

2  Swahili,  Kitoweo ;  Chi-nyanja,  Ndiwo ;  Vao,  Mhoga ;  Iki-nkonde,  Iliseke',  Kifwa  of  South 
Tanganyika. 

*  Sometimes  the  soft  grain  of  the  young  sorghum  and  maize  is  mashed  on  a  stone,  tied  up  in  leaves, 
and  boiled. 

*  A  small  grain  which  grows  at  the  end  of  a  short  stalk  on  three  broad  racemes  like  three  split 
capsules.      In  Swahili,  VUzi ;  Chinyanja,  i>/j:z<fr<f ;  Kimambwe,  Malesi, 


438 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


some  time  and  are  deserted  by  the  hen.  Like  the  Kruboys  of  West  Africa,  the 
negro  of  Central  Africa  likes  his  egg  "  full  of  meat."  Fish  is  usually  split  open 
and  roasted.  It  is  often  dried  first  in  the  sun  and  may  be  eaten  in  this  way 
without  further  cooking.  Sometimes  it  is  made  into  a  stew  with  peppers  and 
vegetables  and  is  then  used  as  a  relish  to  be  eaten  with  the  porridge ;  or,  more 
rarely,  it  is  fried  in  fat  or  oil.^ 

The  meat  of  poultry  or  beasts  is  roasted  (spitted  on  sticks  stuck  in  the 
ground  against  a  fire)  or  stewed  in  a  pot  with  vegetables  and  condiments 
(peppers,  turmeric,  salt,  etc.).  When  men  are  very  hungry  flesh  is  but  slightly 
cooked  before  it  is  devoured. 

The  native  likes  a  little  meat  as  a  relish  with  his  doughy  porridge  or  rice : 
but  he  can  quite  well  do  without  it  and  can  get  on  much  better  without  meat 
than  if  deprived  of  all  vegetable  food.  Still  when  meat  comes  in  his  way  (after 
successful  hunting  or  at  big  feasts)  he  can  devour  an  enormous  quantity  and 
gorges  himself  till  the  pains  of  indigestion  are  intense.  In  some  districts  a 
meat  diet  is  partaken  of  by  the  young  men  for  several  days  before  going  to  war. 
I  have  nowhere  met  with  any  tribe  among  whom  obtained  the  practice  of 
drinking  blood  or  eating  it  cooked,  as  is  characteristic  of  so  many  East  and 
North-East  African  peoples. 

Salt  is  much  liked.  It  is  an  absolute  necessity  of  existence  in  the  n^^o's 
opinion.  Salt  is  put  into  porridge  and  above  all  into  the  relish  eaten  with  the 
porridge  or  rice. 

The  cooking  is  done  in  small  and  large  clay  pots.  Where  tins  have  not 
been  introduced  by  the  Europeans,  large  potsherds  are  used  as  frying-pans. 
Women  do  most  of  the  preparing  and  cooking  of  the  food ;  but  any  man 
or  boy  can  at  a  pinch  cook  for  himself  or  his  comrades. 

Certain  fancies  and  peculiar  customs  prevail  regarding  articles  of  diet. 
Eccentric  things  are  eaten  by  persons  of  both  sexes  for  special  purposes,  while 
on  the  other  hand  wholesome  and  ordinary  forms  of  food  may  be  excluded  for 
more  or  less  fanciful  reasons.  Thus  among  the  Wankonde  the  women  never 
eat  fowls.  The  Angoni,  Yao  and  A-nyanja  men  sometimes  eschew  fowls  as 
an  article  of  diet  for  various  reasons.  Some  men  never  eat  goat,  affirming  that 
it  makes  them  unwell. ^  Other  tribes  refuse  to  eat  fish  or  a  particular  kind 
of  fish.  Men  will  eat  the  flesh  of  lions  to  make  them  brave ;  libidinous  persons 
consume  the  testes  of  goats  as  an  aphrodisiac ;  the  heart  of  a  brave  enemy 
is  cooked  and  devoured  by  those  who  wish  to  share  his  courage.  Many  people 
have  a  particular  liking  for  the  half-digested  grass  found  in  the  stomach  of 
antelopes  oroxen. 

Fire  is  made  by  twirling  a  short  cane  or  stick  in  a  notch  or  hole  cut  in  a  flat 
piece  of  wood.  The  stick  is  continually  pressed  down  and  is  twirled  backwards 
and  forwards  between  the  palms  of  the  hands  till  the  tinder  (usually  dry  bark- 
cloth)  is  ignited.  Then  the  smouldering  tinder  is  placed  in  a  handful  of  dry 
grass  leaves  and  blown  gently  into  a  flame.  Fire,  however,  is  not  often  made  in 
this  special  way.  In  the  village  there  is  always  sure  to  be  a  burning  brand 
in  one  or  other  of  the  house  fires  from  which  a  new^  fire  can  be  lit ;  and  men 
going  on  a  journey  will  take  smouldering  sticks  along  with  them  and  endeavour 
to  transport  fire  in  this  way  rather  than  go  to  the  trouble  of  creating  it  by 
friction. 

^  Fr}'ing  is  not  a  common  method  of  cooking  among  those  natives  who  are  not  under  the  influence  of 
Europeans  or  Arabs, 

^  And,  according  to  Dr.  Cross,  goat's  flesh  does  occasionally  have  this  effect  on  individuals. 


NATIVES  OF  BRITISH  CENTRAL  AFRICA       439 

In  some  tribes  fire  is  carefully  extinguished  on  the  hearth  and  made  anew 
by  friction  when  a  death  or  a  birth  takes  place ;  at  the  beginning  of  the  hoeing 
season  and  at  harvest. 

It  is  an  interesting  consideration  whether  fire  was  known  to  the  earth  before 
man  first  made  it  accidentally,  and  then  of  set  purpose.  I  think  it  was,  in  Central 
Africa  at  any  rate ;  and  this  through  the  action  of  lightning.  Again  and  again 
in  the  great  thunderstorms  at  the  end  of  the  dry  season  cases  have  occurred, 
under  the  observation  of  Europeans,  of  lightning  striking  a  living  tree  or  dead 
tree-stump,  setting  it  on  fire  and  communicating  the  flames  to  the  surrounding 
herbage,  thus  starting  a  bush-fire.  This  action  of  the  lightning  is  of  almost 
yearly  occurrence,  even  so  far  as  our  limited  records  go.  Therefore  it  is  quite 
possible  that  in  the  drier  parts  of  East  Africa  bush-fires  may  have  occurred 
year  after  year  from  natural  causes  alone  without  man's  intervention :  and  that 
even  from  this  cause  man  may  have  become  acquainted  with  fire  and  the  effects 
of  fire  before  he  had  evolved  the  art  of  fire-making.  Fire  may  even  have  been 
preserved  from  one  of  these  annual  conflagrations  for  days,  weeks,  months 
afterwards  until  it  became  such  a  necessity  to  man  that  the  human  mind  sought 
eagerly  for  a  means  of  creating  this  force  without  waiting  for  the  hazardous 
accident  of  a .  thunderstorm.^  So  the  sparks  from  the  chipped  flints  and  the 
kindling  tinder  made  in  boring  into  hard  wood  would  suggest  the  means- 
of  accomplishing  the  first  miracle. 

Most  of  the  natives  in  this  part  of  Africa  ascribe  the  causes  of  disease 
and  death  in  the  first  place  to  witchcraft  and  secondly  to  the  direct  action  of 
God.  They  draw  a  marked  distinction  between  death  from  disease — which 
usually  means  death  from  witchcraft — and  death  from  accident  or  in  warfare. 
These  are  more  or  less  the  acts  of  God  and  not  to  be  helped,  though  sometimes 
an  accident  may  be  ascribed  to  a  person  having  been  bewitched,  especially  if  it 
is  a  man  out  hunting  and  death  has  been  due  to  wild  beasts.  In  this  respect 
the  belief  in  "  were  "  animals,  that  is  to  say  in  human  beings  who  have  changed 
themselves  into  lions  or  leopards  or  some  such  harmful  beasts,  is  nearly  universal. 
Moreover  there  are  individuals  who  imagine  they  possess  this  power  of  assuming 
the  form  of  an  animal  and  killing  human  beings  in  that  shape. 

I  remember  a  case  which  occurred  at  Chiromo  soon  after  we  commenced  the 
administration  of  the  Protectorate.  A  series  of  murders  and  mutilations  took 
place  in  the  vicinity  of  the  native  village.  At  last  they  were  traced  to  an  old 
man  who,  it  was  found,  concealed  himself  in  long  grass  near  the  route  to  the 
river  side  and  when  solitary  passers-by  came  near  him  he  would  leap  at  them 
unawares  and  stab  them.  He  then  mutilated  their  bodies.  He  was  caught 
almost  red-handed  and  abundant  evidence  was  given  as  to  his  being  the  author 
of  every  one  of  these  crimes :  but  the  old  man  himself  talked  very  freely  about 
the  whole  matter  and  admitted  having  committed  the  murders.  He  could  not 
help  it  (he  said)  as  he  had  a  strong  feeling  at  times  that  he  was  changed  into 
a  lion  and  was  impelled,  as  a  lion,  to  kill  and  mutilate.^ 

Nevertheless  though  the  natives  ascribe  death  in  so  many  cases  to  the 
extraneous  action  of  other  persons  as  well  as  to  an  evil  spirit  they  have  much 

*  Bush-fires  of  this  kind  may  even  have  taught  early  man  the  advantages  of  cooking.  Following 
in  their  track  he  would  come  upon  roasted  rats,  small  antelopes,  and  birds  which  he  would  find  singularly 
toothsome. 

^  As  according  to  our  view  of  the  law  he  was  not  a  sane  person  he  was  sentenced  to  be  detained 
**  during  the  chiefs  pleasure'*  and  this  **  were-Iion  "  has  been  most  usefully  employed  for  years  in  perfect 
contentment  keeping  the  roads  of  Chiromo  in  good  repair. 


440  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

practical  good  sense  about  applying  remedies  and  have  a  considerable  know- 
ledge of  therapeutics.  They  make  infusions  from  the  leaves,  flowers,  bark, 
wood,  or  roots  of  certain  plants  to  be  used  as  medicine  for  various  diseases. 
There  is  naturally  a  good  deal  of  empiricism  in  their  remedies  as  they  will  add 
the  blood  of  a  white  or  red  cock  to  the  infusion  of  herbs,  which  is  given  to  a  sick 
man.'  Sometimes  a  piece  of  the  bark  from  which  the  infusion  is  made  is  worn 
round  the  neck.  For  some  maladies  they  scarify  the  skin  extensively  and  are 
very  successful  in  dry-cupping. 

Mr.  J.  O.  Bowhill,  the  collector  for  the  West  Shire  District,  states  that  the 
Maflanja  in  that  district  use  many  indigenous  drugs,  such  as  Bobwana^  an 
anodyne ;  Jigagaru,  a  sedative ;  Sabu,  a  carminative ;  Nsonga,  a  medicine  for 
the  ears  ;  Petere,  "good  for  asthma  '* ;  Chisungwa  (red  seeds  and  bark  pounded), 
used  as  an  emetic ;  Mpiu,  a  medicine  used  in  child-birtR ;  Kanyanja,  a  drug  for 
curing  headaches ;  Pichiru  Maungu,  another  medicine  for  dulling  pain ;  Modi, 
for  burns,  and  Mlaza,  a  sedative  for  mad  people. 

Charcoal  is  used  for  painting  wounds  and  ulcers.  Some  drugs  are  employed 
as  emetics,  others  to  induce  premature  labour  and  abortion.  '* Charcoal  is  used" 
(states  the  Rev.  D.  C.  R.  Scott)  "for  painting  wounds  and  ulcers  with  a  thick 
black  paste.  This  is  guarded  by  a  piece  of  gourd-shell  neatly  cut,  pierced  with 
holes  by  which  strings  fasten  it  over  the  sore  place.  Clean  leaves  also  are  used 
as  dressing.  .  .  .  Severe  caustic  medicines  are  employed  in  some  instances  for 
painting  ulcers.  ...  In  cases  of  neuralgia  or  rheumatism  blood-letting  is 
frequently  resorted  to  with  a  cup  made  for  the  purpose.  Boils  are  opened 
and  are  carefully  treated ;  small-pox  pustules  are  let  out  with  a  thorn  and  the 
body  is  protected  with  banana  leaves.  Affections  of  the  chest  and  throat  are 
treated  by  inhaling  a  steam  which  can  be  made  from  various  boiled  barks  ; 
the  body  is  similarly  steamed." 

The  natives  throughout  this  country  and  elsewhere  in  Tropical  Africa  have 
a  great  belief  in  curing  sickness,  especially  if  it  be  a  fever  or  a  chill,  by  the 
Turkish  bath  system.  They  will  shut  themselves  up  in  a  hut  before  a  blazing 
fire  and  sweat  profusely.  Limbs  afflicted  with  rheumatic  pains  are  often 
"  massed."  Massage  is  very  commonly  met  with  among  the  people  round 
Tanganyika  and  on  the  west  coast  of  Lake  Nyasa,  but  has  probably  been 
introduced  by  the  Arabs  who  are  great  believers  in  it.^ 

But  there  is  another  side  to  medicine,  in  which  the  belief  of  the  natives 
is  equally  strong.  It  can  be  used  empirically.  Love  potions  are  made  which 
sometimes  appear  to  have  this  amount  of  reality  in  them  that  they  are 
aphrodisiacs  to  some  extent. 

Thieves  believe  that  a  medicine  or  charm  can  be  concocted  (called  in 
Chinyanja  "Chikululu,"  by  the  Wa-nyamwezi  of  East  Central  Africa,  "Mionga"*) 
which  if  worn  round  the  thief's  neck  will  cause  any  persons  with  whom  he 
comes  into  contact  to  fall  asleep  or  else  will  make  him  come  and  go  invisible 
to  other  men.  (Sometimes  this  medicine  appears  to  be  compounded  of  the  ver>' 
strong  drug  Strophanthus,  locally  known  as  Kontbe,  a  medicine  which  is  also 

'  Not  only  are  there  infusions,  but  roots  or  fruits  are  ground  to  powder  and  taken  in  that  form. 

*^  The  very  word  "Massage"  comes  from  the  Arabic  Mas.  This  word  is  adopted  also  into  Hindustani, 
where  Mds  krna  means  *'To  Mass  or  Shampoo."  The  Arabic  word  apparently  comes  from  Masa — 
he  touched,  handled. 

^  The  late  Colonel  J.  A.  Grant  says  that  this  "medicine"  is  a  branch  of  the  Steganotania  tree.  "With 
a  branch  of  it  in  the  hand  or  by  placing  the  branch  over  the  doorway  a  man  may  rob  a  house  without 
detection  ;  or  if  he  places  the  branch  alongside  a  goat's  body  which  has  been  sacrificed  at  the  crossroads 
all  persons  will  go  to  sleep  where  he  intends  to  plunder." 


NATIVES  OF  BRITISH   CENTRAL  AFRICA       441 

used  to  stupefy  fish  and  to  poison  arrows.)  The  thief  or  person  wishing  to 
escape  consumes  some  himself,  believing  that  it  renders  him  invisible.  It  is 
possible  that  this  belief  might  arise  from  the  action  of  the  drug  which  taken 
in  quantities  not  large  enough  to  cause  death  merely  brings  about  a  temporary 
insensibility.  A  case  illustrating  this  occurred  once  at  Fort  Johnston,  and  is 
referred  to  in  my  review  of  the  History  in  Chapter  IV.^ 

While  on  the  one  hand  medicines  are  supposed  to  give  thieves  good  luck 
in  stealing,  on  the  other,  counter-charms  buried  in  the  house  or  garden  will 
protect  property  against  thieves.  Very  often  these  charms  are  hung  up  on 
sticks  at  the  entrance  to  plantations.  Again,  other  medicines  will  bring  good 
luck  in  the  shooting  of  wild  animals,  or  when  fixed  in  some  way  to  the  stock 
of  the  gun  will  enable  the  possessor  to  shoot  straight  in  time  of  war ;  while 
there  are  innumerable"  recipes  for  rendering  one's  person  safe  from  risks  in 
warfare.  The  natives  have  a  firm  belief  in  this  last.  White  men  exhibiting 
bravery  in  battle,  or  gaining  victory  after  victory,  are  simply  said  to  possess 
"  war  medicine "  which  renders  them  both  invulnerable  and  bound  to  succeed. 
These  negroes  can  sometimes  be  made  recklessly  brave  by  their  firm  belief 
in  the  medicine  of  some  particular  chief  Not  until  many  of  them  have  fallen 
on  the  field  of  battle  will  they  lose  faith  in  the  potency  of  the  chief's  charms. 
These  medicines  are  sometimes  heterogeneous  substances  reduced  to  powder 
and  enclosed  in  the  horns  of  small  antelopes.  Drugs  which  are  supposed 
to  act  by  occult  means  are  thrown  at  the  person  whom  they  are  intended 
to  influence,  or  they  may  simply  be  buried,  and,  as  it  were,  dedicated  to  him, 
sometimes  in  the  vicinity  of  his  habitation. 

The  poison  ordeal  is  universal  as  a  custom  and  prevails  over  the  greater 
part  of  pagan  Negro  Africa,  the  same  substance  being  used  throughout  for  the 
ordeal.  This  is  known  in  British  Central  Africa  as  Muavi,  or  Mwai,  and 
is  made  of  the  triturated  bark  of  the  Erythrophlcsum  guincense.  Certain  indi- 
viduals undertake  as  a  kind  of  trade  the  special  business  of  pounding  the 
Muavi  bark.  It  is  usually  prepared  in  a  small  wooden  mortar,  with  a  wooden 
pestle.  The  water  is  gradually  mixed  with  the  bark  as  it  is  being  pounded  and 
this  is  generally  done  just  when  the  stuff  is  wanted  so  that  it  may  be  drunk 
fresh. 

Natives  are  despondent  patients  in  sickness  in  their  own  communities, 
as  illness  is  so  often  ascribed  to  witchcraft,  and  they  believe  themselves  to 
be  in  the  power  of  some  evil-disposed  witch  or  wizard,  who  has  doomed  them 
to  death  and  whose  spells  are  stronger  than  those  of  the  friendly  medicine  man. 
But  they  have  an  almost  sublime  faith  in  the  European  doctor  and  in  his  hands 
they  are  usually  confident  of  recovery  while  their  remarkable  insensibility 
to  pain  makes  them  admirable  subjects  for  operations.  Many  things  may 
be  done  to  a  Central  African  negro  without  anaesthetics  which  in  the  case 
of  a  European  or  Indian  would  not  only  require  the  application  of  chloroform 
or  ether,  but  might  even  then  prove  to  be  too  severe  a  shock  to  the  system  for 
subsequent  recovery.      It  has  been  remarkable  sometimes,  after  one  of  our 

*  Msamara,  a  chief,  had  been  imprisoned  in  Fort  Johnston.  His  friends  were  allowed  to  have  access 
to  him  and  brought  him  one  day  a  horn  of  medicine  which  was  probably  powdered  Strophanthus.  The 
next  night  he  look  a  dose  and  stripped  off  his  clothes  (the  idea  being  that  the  clothes  could  not  be 
rendered  invisible)  and  attempted,  stark  naked,  to  walk  out  of  his  prison.  On  the  Sikh  sentries,  who  were 
not  asleep,  presenting  their  bayonets,  Msamara  had  to  retire  to  the  cell  once  more  and  explain  away 
the  matter  next  morning  by  saying  that  he  had  been  walking  in  his  sleep.  The  following  night,  however, 
he  apparently  took  an  extra  strong  dose  of  Strophanthus  and  was  found  lying  dead  with  the  empty 
horn  of  medicine  in  his  hand  and  all  his  clothes  removed. 


442  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

battles,  to  see  the  wounded  on  both  sides  being  dealt  with  by  our  surgeons. 
Operations  of  the  most  terribly  painful  character  are  being  carried  on  and 
the  patients  are  smiling,  with  an  occasional  wince  or  grimace,  but  meantime 
plaiting  grass  with  their  fingers  or  watching  the  application  of  the  surgical 
implements  with  positive  interest. 

There  are  amongst  them  two  classes  of  medicine  man,  or  woman — the 
acknowledged  or  suspected  wizard  or  witch,  who  by  his  or  her  own  confession 
aims  at  influence  over  the  human  frame  with  the  aid  of  spirits  or  charms  ;  and 
the  genuine  doctor  or  doctress,  a  person  who  by  no  means  discards  the  use 
of  empirical  methods  or  the  action  on  the  patient's  imagination  secured  by 
mystic  rites  and  substances  supposed  to  have  magical  value,  but  who  neverthe- 
less has  a  considerable  knowledge  of  drugs,  and  frequently  effects  remarkable 
cures  by  honest  therapeutics.  When  a  man,  woman,  or  child  falls  ill  the 
relatives  (for  there  is  much  mutual  help  and  sympathy  amongst  these  people) 
go  to  the  nearest  and  best  doctor  of  repute.  He  is  told  the  symptoms  and 
asked  to  prescribe  for  the  patient.  If  it  be  the  opinion  of  the  sufferer  himself, 
or  of  his  relatives,  that  his  malady  is  solely  due  to  withcraft,  the  person  appealed 
to  may  be  a  witch-finder — often  a  woman.  In  such  a  case  the  patient  is  visited, 
various  incantations  and  absurd  rites  are  gone  through,  usually  ending  in  a 
little  clumsy  l^ger  de  main.  The  magician,  having  previously  secreted  some 
substance,  will  pretend  to  have  drawn  it  from  the  person's  body  and  with  it  the 
sickness,  or  will  have  previously  buried  it  at  the  base  of  a  tree  or  at  the  lintel 
of  the  hut,  and  will  then  in  the  presence  of  the  gullible  bystanders  dig  it 
up,  accompanying  most  of  these  actions  by  frantic  leaping  and  gesticulation  and 
even  by  involuntary  self-induced  convulsions.  If  the  patient  does  not  recover 
then  the  magician  owns  that  the  opposing  witch  or  wizard  has  stronger  spells 
and  nothing  can  be  done.  If  suspicion  falls  on  any  individual  he  or  she  is 
sometimes  propitiated  by  presents  and  if  recovery  then  follows  all  is  well ;  if  not 
then  there  is  strong  presumptive  evidence  that  the  death  is  due  to  this  obstinate 
wizard,  who  to  prove  his  or  her  innocence  must  submit  to  the  Muavi  ordeal. 

But  it  may  be  that  the  patient  or  his  friends  are  convinced  in  the  first  instance 
that  he  is  suffering  from  some  well-known  malady  which  can  be  easily  cured  by 
native  drugs,  or  this  is  the  opinion  entertained  by  the  doctor  they  have  called 
in.  This  individual  then  proceeds  to  the  woods  and  prepares  from  bark,  leaves, 
flowers,  seeds,  or  roots,  such  medicine  as  he  may  consider  meets  the  case.  It 
is  noteworthy  how  efficacious  these  medicines  are.  In  an  obstinate  case  of 
seemingly  incurable  sickness,  where  a  native  soldier  or  policeman  is  apparently 
going  to  pieces,  he  will  ask  permission  to  return  to  his  own  people  and  go 
through  a  native  cure.  After  a  lapse  of  about  three  months,  having  completed 
his  cure — whatever  it  may  be — he  returns  sound  and  well. 

The  whole  subject  of  native  drugs  is  a  most  important  one,  which  is  being 
carefully  investigated  by  certain  Europeans  in  the  country.  Already,  it  must 
be  remembered,  the  valuable  Strophanthus  drug,  now  much  used  in  the  British 
Pharmacopoeia,  was  originally  sent  home  to  this  country  by  the  late  Mr. 
Buchanan,  who  had  noticed  that  it  was  largely  used  in  native  medicine,  and  also 
for  the  purpose  of  stupefying  fish  and  poisoning  arrows.  It  is  now  one  of  our 
regular  articles  of  export.^ 

^  Dr.  Kerr  Cross  states: — "The  Wankonde  have  a  wonderful  knowledge  of  herbs  and  medicinal 
plants.  Of  these  they  make  infusions  from  the  leaves,  flower,  bark,  wood  or  roots.  Often  the  blood  of 
a  white  or  red  cock  is  added  to  the  infusion  which  the  sick  man  must  drink.  When  he  has  done  this  a 
piece  of  the  healing  bark  is  worn  round  the  neck.     They  also  scarify  the  wound  extensively  to  counteract 


NATIVES  OF  BRITISH   CENTRAL  AFRICA       443 

The  patient,  however,  fails  to  recover,  we  will  suppose,  either  by  faith  cure  in 
the  belief  that  the  evil  influence  of  the  witch  is  averted,  or  by  good  nursing  and 
suitable  drugs.  He  dies.  If  he  has  been  a  chief  or  a  rich  man  and  has  lived  in 
a  district  where  European  influence  does  not  prevail,  a  sudden  capture  is  made 
of  a  number  of  his  slaves  who  are  put  in  slave  sticks  to  be  subsequently 
slaughtered  at  their  master's  grave,  so  that  they  may  go  with  him  to  the  spirit 
world. 

Amongst  the  Wankonde  at  the  north  end  of  Lake  Nyasa  the  female  relatives 
wash  and  anoint  the  dead  body  with  oil ;  and  this  custom  of  washing,  anointing 
and  subsequently  swathing  the  corpse  after  death  is  almost  universal  in  this  part 
of  Africa. 

But  the  Wankonde  have  a  peculiar  custom  (as  I  am  informed  by  Dr.  Cross) 
of  making  ^post  mortem  examination  immediately  after  death,  in  order  that  the 
cause  from  which  the  person  has  died  may  be  fully  ascertained.  The  body  is 
laid  out  in  the  shade  of  a  tree,  and  one  of  the  elders  of  the  village  takes  a  sharp 
bamboo  and  makes  an  incision  in  the  median  line  of  the  stomach  from  the  end 
of  the  breast  bone  to  the  navel.  He  then  carefully  examines  the  mesentery,  and 
according  to  what  he  sees  in  the  distribution  of  the  blood-vessels  confirms  or 
denies  the  supposition  that  death  has  been  due  to  witchcraft  This  is  done  to 
the  corpse  of  every  person  not  dying  in  warfare.^ 

Among  all  tribes  the  persons  who  have  handled,  washed,  anointed  and  laid 
out  the  corpse  are  considered  to  be  unclean  for  several  days  afterwards.  They 
eat  amongst  themselves  and  if  they  have  to  approach  the  village  remain  outside 
calling  for  what  they  want.  Ordinarily  the  people  who  perform  these  services 
for  the  deceased  are  his  relations — the  brothers  or  sisters.  If  the  dead  person 
be  a  woman  she  is  attended  to  in  the  first  instance  by  women.  The  body 
is  swathed  in  cloth  among  those  tribes  who  are  in  contact  with  supplies  of 
European  goods ;  but  this  would  appear  to  be  rather  a  custom  imported  from 
the  Muhammadan.  In  the  wilder  parts  of  the  country  corpses  are  usually  tied 
up  with  strips  of  bark  in  a  sitting  position.  When  these  services  are  completed 
and  the  deceased  is  ready  for  burial  those  who  have  prepared  the  body  perform 
various  ablutions  and  get  rid  of  their  "  uncleanliness." 

one  pain  by  another ;  they  dry-cup  freely  and  seem  to  be  very  successful  in  this.  We  have  a  lot  to  learn 
from  the  Wankonde  doctors. " 

In  regard  to  dry-cupping  it  is  usually  performed  in  this  way  : — First  of  all  the  place  on  the  skin  where 
the  cupping  is  to  take  place  is  moistened,  then  a  cup-shaped  instrument  made  of  antelope  horn  with 
a  small  hole  bored  at  the  end  is  firmly  pressed  on  to  the  moistened  skin.  The  hole  at  the  stem  of  the  cup 
is  filled  up  with  wax.  Through  this  is  thrust  a  tube  of  grass— similar  to  the  straws  with  which  people 
absorb  cooling  drinks.  The  doctor  then  sucks  hard  at  the  grass  tube,  the  blood  comes  to  the  surface  of  the 
skin  and  the  drawn-up  flesh  rises  into  the  cup.  The  grass  tube  is  withdrawn  and  the  hole  closed  with 
wax  after  the  air  is  exhausted.  When  the  horn  is  remov^  the  blood  has  formed  large  weals  or  lumps  under 
the  skin. 

*  The  Anyanja  divide  the  causes  of  death  into  three.  One  is  the  direct  act  of  God,  namely  some 
sudden  accident  or  the  outcome  of  some  widespread  epidemic  ;  occasionally  also  the  result  of  well-known 
diseases  obviously  incurred  in  a  natural  manner.  Secondly,  death  in  warfare  or  by  open  assassination,  for 
the  murderer  may  or  may  not  be  held  responsible  according  to  native  law  ;  these  deaths  at  any  rate  demand 
no  fiirther  enquiry.  Thirdly,  death  by  witchcraft,  where  the  malady  is  of  an  obscure  kind,  or  where  an 
individual  has  been  killed  by  some  wild  beast,  either  in  hunting  or  as  an  act  of  unprovoked  aggression  on 
the  part  of  the  animal.  On  these  occasions  the  wild  l)east  is  supposed  to  be  either  inspired  by  the  spirit 
of  the  witch  or  to  be  actually  a  '*  were,"  or  human  being  disguised  as  a  wild  animal.  The  Wa-yao  hold 
much  the  same  ideas.  When  during  a  truce  the  Yao  chief  Makanjira  was  considering  the  terms  of  })eace 
proposed  by  Major  Edwards  one  of  his  councillors  rose  and  advised  war  with  the  British  to  the  bitter  end. 
The  discussion  was  taking  place  in  the  bush,  and  by  a  curious  coincidence  at  that  moment  an  enraged 
bull  buffalo  charged  the  whole  party,  singling  out  (and  so  wounding  that  eventually  he  died)  the  aforesaid 
coancillor.  The  Yao  at  once  declared  that  this  buffalo  was  none  other  than  Major  Edwards  and  war  was 
resumed  with  greater  bitterness  on  this  account. 


444  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

In  the  case  of  the  A-nyanja  the  body  is  usually  stretched  at  full  length  when 
prepared  for  burial ;  amongst  the  Wa-yao  the  legs  are  bent ;  with  the  Wankonde 
the  body  is  tied  up  in  a  sitting  position,  the  knees  drawn  up  against  the  chin 
with  the  hands  clasped  round  the  legs.  This  appears  to  be  the  position  adopted 
by  almost  all  the  other  tribes  of  British  Central  Africa. 

Muhammadans  are,  of  course,  swathed  in  cloth  and  buried  at  full  length. 

Wailing  begins  as  soon  as  the  death  is  officially  announced  :  it  is  generally 
commenced  by  the  wives  of  the  deceased  (if  a  male)  or  by  the  mother  or  sister 
of  the  dead  woman.  Mourning  consists  of  plaintive  songs,  much  drumming, 
and  mystic  dancing.  Where  the  people  have  been  in  contact  with  the  coast 
Muhammadans,  guns  are  fired  if  a  great  man  has  died.  This  firing  of  guns 
is  kept  up  at  intervals  until  the  burial  is  finished.  The  Wa-yao  and  some 
other  tribes  throw  flour  over  their  heads  and  shoulders  when  in  mourning; 
the  A-nyanja  and  the  people  of  the  west  coast  of  Lake  Nyasa  tie  strips  of 
bark  cloth,  or  plaited  straw,  or  blue  calico  round  their  arms  and  waists. 
Amongst  the  Wa-yao  and  A-nyanja  the  corpse,  whether  swathed  or  not,  is 
usually  rolled  up  in  the  mat  which  belonged  to  his  bed,  or  in  cases  where  the 
mourning  on  account  of  a  chief  or  big  man  is  to  last  a  long  time  the  body 
is  enclosed  in  a  cylinder  of  bark.  It  is  then  placed  over  a  hole  dug  in  the 
floor  of  the  hut  so  that  the  inconvenience  caused  by  decomposition  may  be 
thus  got  rid  of.  The  smell  attending  decomposition  is  neutralised  by  hemp 
and  other  aromatic  weeds  being  burned.  It  often  happens,  however,  that  the 
deceased  person  who  is  to  be  mourned  such  a  long  period  has  his  body  poised 
over  what  is  to  be  subsequently  his  grave ;  for  men  are  often  buried  in  their 
own  houses. 

If,  however,  the  dead  person  is  to  be  buried  away  from  the  village  a  long 
pole  is  passed  through  the  mat  or  cylinder  enclosing  the  body  and  the  corpse 
is  then  carried  along  on  the  shoulders  of  undertakers  who  go  out  accompanied 
by  a  number  of  men  and  women  marching  with  drums  and  chants.  The 
grave  is  dug,  the  body  buried,  the  earth  heaped  over  it  and  fences  are  erected 
to  which  there  may  be  subsequently  added  a  grass  roof. 

The  Rev.  Duff  Macdonald  states  that  amongst  the  Yao  no  one  very  closely 
related  to  the  deceased  accompanies  the  body  to  the  grave  if  it  can  possibly 
be  helped — that  is  to  say,  if  there  are  enough  people  in  the  village  not  thus 
related  to  carry  out  the  ceremony.  Mothers  are  allowed  to  go  to  the  funerals 
of  their  children  if  they  have  died  in  infancy,  not  otherwise ;  a  father  will 
not  go  to  the  funeral  of  his  children  nor  the  husband  to  that  of  his  wife. 
Mr.  Macdonald  also  states  that  the  chief  relative  of  the  deceased — what  we 
should  call  the  first  mourner — does  not  come  to  the  grave,  as  that  would  unfit 
him  for  the  task  of  prosecuting  the  witch  that  caused  the  death. 

The  grave  is  not  dug,  nor  is  the  site  of  it  actually  indicated  until  the  funeral 
party  arrives,  after  which  grave-digging  commences.  The  diggers  are  supported 
from  time  to  time  by^  rations  of  food  brought  by  the  women  and  the  grave 
is  dug  with  hoes  and  according  to  the  measurement  of  the  body.  When  the 
grave  is  finished  two  forked  stakes  are  driven  into  the  ground  at  each  end  of 
it.  The  body  is  then  lowered  and  the  forked  sticks  receive  the  projecting 
parts  of  the  bamboo  that  carried  the  corpse  to  the  grave.  It  is  thus  suspended 
between  these  two  sticks  without  touching  the  bottom  of  the  grave.  The  top 
of  the  grave  is  roofed  in  by  logs  of  wood.  Articles  which  are  to  be  buried 
with  the  deceased  are  then  put  in  and  earth  is  finally  sifted  over  the  hole. 

According  to  Mr.  Macdonald  this  strong  wooden  fence  round  the  grave 


NATIVES  OF  BRITISH   CENTRAL  AFRICA       445 

is  supposed  to  keep  out  the  witch  who  has  caused  the  death  and  who  now 
wishes  to  eat  the  flesh  of  her  victim  and  may  come  there  in  the  shape  of  a 
hyena  to  dig  up  the  body. 

As  to  the  articles  buried  with  the  body : — Amongst  the  'Wa-yao  if  the 
deceased  is  a  rich  man  a  small  portion  of  his  ivory  is  ground  to  powder  and 
handfuls  of  beads  are  smashed  up  before  they  are  put  into  the  grave.  This 
appears  to  be  done  with  the  double  object  of  preventing  thieves  from  robbing 
the  graves  and  also  of  "  killing  "  the  articles  put  in  so  that  they  may  accompany 
the  deceased  to  the  spirit  world.  In  like  manner  his  pots  and  drinking  vessels 
have  holes  drilled  through  them  or  are  broken,  and  likewise  added  to  the  stock 
of  utensils  in  the  grave. 

Where  the  custom  is  carried  out  of  killing  slaves  to  accompany  the  deceased 
on  his  journey  the  grave  is  of  course  a  very  much  larger  one,  and  the  slaves  are 
either  buried  alive  or  have  their  throats  cut  and  their  bodies  are  laid  at  the 
bottom  of  the  grave.     On  them  the  body  of  the  deceased  reposes. 

Amongst  many  of  the  tribes  of  the  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau,  of  Tangan- 
yika and  elsewhere  to  the  west,  the  corpse  is  usually  left  in  the  grave  (which 
is  a  round  hole  about  five  feet  deep)  for  ten  lunar  months,  after  which  time  it  is 
taken  up  at  midnight  and  the  bones  (for  by  this  time  it  is  practically  reduced 
to  a  skeleton)  are  carried  to  one  of  the  sacred  clumps  of  forest  on  the  high  hills 
in  the  neighbourhood,  a  forest  to  which  only  the  sorcerers  and  medicine  men  go. 
Forests  all  over  the  country  are  used  for  burial,  either  for  the  bestowal  of  bones 
or  for  the  interment  of  the  undisturbed  corpse.  Consequently  natives  often 
oppose  one's  exploration  of  the  thick  jungle  just  where  it  is  most  attractive  to 
the  botanist — more  I  think  because  they  do  not  wish  you  to  come  to  any  harm 
by  offending  the  spirits  than  because  they  are  shocked  at  your  profanity. 
Sometimes  when  I  have  explained  to  them  I  merely  wished  to  go  there  to 
gather  flowers  they  have  raised  no  objections,  although  I  remember  in  one  case 
a  strong  protest  being  uttered  against  my  taking  away  some  gorgeous  yellow 
blossoms  from  a  shrub  which  grew  in  one  of  these  native  cemeteries. 

Among  the  Awa-wamdia  of  North-West  Nyasa  the  bones  after  they  are 
disinterred  are  burned  ;  they  are  not  thrown  into  the  forest.  A  great  festival 
takes  place  when  the  bones  are  burnt,  at  which  a  quantity  of  native  beer  is 
drunk. 

Amongst  the  Awa-ndali  of  North- West  Nyasa  the  corpse  is  interred  outside 
the  hut  in  which  the  person  has  died,  at  one  side  of  the  door.  A  grass  covering 
is  put  over  the  mound.  Should,  however,  any  member  of  the  deceased's 
family  become  ill  within  a  year,  the  misfortune  is  attribued  to  the  deceased, 
and  to  obviate  any  further  harm  the  nearest  relative  of  the  person  there  buried 
digs  up  the  bones  at  midnight  and  carries  them  to  the  dense  bush  where  they 
are  deposited.  Dr.  Cross  writes  : — "  I  have  gone  into  several  of  the  thick 
clumps  of  trees  in  this  country  and  have  found  the  ground  covered  with 
human  bones."  ^ 

All  the  Wankonde  peoples  are  particular  about  their  mourning  customs. 
The  banana  trees  which  may  have  belonged  to  the  deceased  during  his  life  are 
cut  down.  His  or  her  pots  and  baskets  are  broken  or  destroyed  and  the  home 
is  often  left  to  decay.  But  the  dead  are  not  forgotten.  The  grave  is  usually 
marked  by  a  small  grass  covering  (this  also  applies  to  the  Wa-yao  and  the 
A-nyanja),  and  from  time  to  time  the  relatives  place  on  this  mound  little  baskets 
of  meal  or  pots  of  native  beer.  I  remember  after  the  capture  of  Zarafi's  strong- 
hold (which  was  a  ver}'  large  rambling  Yao  village  up  in  the  mountains)  there 


446  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

was  quite  a  large  native  cemetery,  outside  the  town,  each  grave  being  marked  by 
a  neat  little  house  made  of  bamboo  stakes  with  a  grass  roof  and  with  a  mound 
over  the  grave.  Each  grave  was  well  supplied  with  little  offerings  of  food  which 
had  evidently  been  freshly  placed  there  just  before  the  town  was  captured 
Nothing,  I  was  subsequently  told,  operated  more  in  our  favour,  or  induced  the 
natives  more  readily  to  sue  for  peace,  than  the  fact  that  these  graves  were 
respected  and  left  undisturbed.  On  the  other  hand  Makanjira,  in  the  course  of 
our  warfare,  was  infuriated  by  the  destruction  of  his  "  father's  "  tomb.^  At  the 
time  we  destroyed  it  we  did  not  realise  it  was  a  tomb.  We  took  it  for  an 
unusually  stylish  house.  The  roof  of  this  large  mausoleum  was  entirely  covered 
with  white  calico  intended  to  imitate  the  white  tombs  in  Muhammadan  countries, 
erected  over  the  grave  of  some  saint.  At  Mponda's  town  to  the  south  end 
of  Lake  Nyasa  there  was  likewise  a  huge  circular  tomb  with  its  thatched  roof 
covered  with  white  calico.  This  was  partially  destroyed  during  the  bombard- 
ment. It  was  the  place  where  the  former  Mponda  had  been  buried.  On  enter- 
ing the  tomb,  the  roof  of  which  only  had  been  destroyed,  we  found  the  grave 
was  a  huge  sarcophagus  of  hardened  clay,  very  similar  in  shape  to  the  great 
stone  tombs  of  the  middle  ages,  with  earthenware  plates  embedded  in  the  mud, 
so  that  at  a  distance  it  had  rather  a  fine,  coruscating  effect  from  this  enamel 
of  coarse  pottery  (which  of  course  was  derived  from  the  coast  in  the  course  of 
trade).  Finding  that  the  building  was  the  burial  place  of  the  Mponda  who  had 
been  good  to  Livingstone,  we  restored  the  roof  and  re-covered  it  with  white 
calico  of  our  own  will,  and  that  went  so  far  to  conciliate  Mponda*s  people  that 
although  their  present  chief  again  fell  out  with  us  some  years  later  on  his  people 
did  not  join  him  in  the  rising. 

Amongst  all  those  Nyanja  tribes  where  the  custom  does  not  prevail  of 
taking  up  the  bones  and  scattering  them  in  the  forest  after  a  certain  lapse  of 
time,  the  grave  is  held  sacred.  To  swear  by  the  grave  is  a  solemn  oath. 
Sentiment  regarding  the  place  of  interment  is  very  prevalent  even  as  regards 
the  burial  of  Europeans.  Such  explorers  as  have  visited  the  place  where 
Livingstone's  heart  lies  buried,  or  the  graves  of  Bishop  Mackenzie  or  other 
missionaries  who  have  died  in  British  Central  Africa,  have  been  struck  with  the 
great  care  taken  of  the  graves  by  the  natives. 

Reference  has  been  made  to  the  belief  that  deaths  can  be  caused  by 
occult  influence,  by  witchcraft.  Except  in  the  vicinity  of  mission  stations 
or  such  districts  as  are  entirely  under  the  control  of  European  officials  this 
belief  is  widespread,  and  probably  no  tribe  or  section  of  people  is  exempted 
from  it. 

The  witch,  or  wizard,  Mfiti — as  opposed  to  Siilanga^  the  doctor,  the 
medicine  man — is  the  terror  of  the  Central  African  negro  community.  And 
in  most  parts  of  British  Central  Africa — especially  among  the  A-nyanja — 
there  is  a  real  excuse  for  this  terror  in  the  fact  that  Mfiti — or  Zimfiti,  as 
the  plural  is  sometimes — are  depraved  persons  with  a  craving  for  putrefying 
human  flesh.  This  is  no  fancy ;  it  is  a  fact.  It  is  probable  that  not  more 
than  one  or  two  centuries  have  elapsed  since  the  bulk  of  South  Central 
Africans  were  cannibals,  in  the  cheerful,  daylight  manner  of  the  Upper  Congo, 
where  people  are  killed  and  eaten  for  gastronomic  pleasure  and  the  act  is 
normal  and  unconcealed.  Gradually,  however,  with  the  vague  influence  of 
the  Portuguese  to  the  south  and  the  Arabs  to  the  north,  the  natives  became 

^  Not  really  his  father  but  the  chief  who  ^.receded  him,  as  amongst  the  Yao  son  does  not  succeed 
father. 


NATIVES   OF  BRITISH   CENTRAL  AFRICA       447 

ashamed  of  eating  human  flesh,  and  they  grew  to  regard  such  a  practice  as 
most  abhorrent.^ 

But  while  cannibalism  in  the  main  disappeared  as  an  avowed  custom  it  has 
lingered  as  a  horrible  practice  amongst  depraved  people,  who  now  do  not  care 
for  healthy  human  flesh — namely  the  bodies  of  people  killed  in  battle — but 
crave  for  dead  bodies  which  have  been  in  the  grave  a  few  days  or  weeks,  and 
which  they  exhume  and  devour.  No  doubt  this  custom  prevailed  among  many 
other  races  of  man  in  the  savage  stage  and  was  the  grain  of  truth  at  the  bottom 
of  the  Eastern  myth  of  the  Ghul. 

I  had  not  been  long  in  Nyasaland  before  I  heard  that  cannibalism  of  a  more 
or  less  secret  kind  still  lingered  amongst  the  timid  mountaineers  of  Nyanja  race 
*on  Cholo  Mountain  midway  between  Chiromo  and  Blantyre;  and  in  1891 
a  French  priest  who  had  been  stationed  for  a  year  as  a  missionary  at  Mponda's 
town  at  the  south  end  of  Lake  Nyasa,  described  to  me  how  frequently  people 
of  Nyanja  race  dug  up  corpses  and  devoured  them.  He  described  the  horror 
with  which  the  Muhammadanised  Yao  regarded  this  practice,  and  went  on 
to  relate  how  a  certain  woman  was  accused  of  being  a  witch  and  of  eating 
human  flesh  from  the  graves ;  that  she  stoutly  denied  the  accusation  and  they 
then  forced  her  to  drink  mwavi ;  she  found  she  could  not  vomit  and  that  death 
was  certain.  She  therefore  shrieked  out  "It  is  true :  go  to  my  house  and  you 
will  find  the  remains  of  a  man's  leg  hidden  in  such  and  such  a  place. '  People 
rushed  to  the  house  and  the  priest  followed  them,  and  to  his  horror  he  saw 
them  bringing  out  from  the  interior  what  seemed  to  be  the  bones  of  a  leg 
with  fragments  of  putrefying  flesh  still  remaining  attached  to  the  bones.  The 
woman  was  killed  and  burnt  by  the  populace. 

The  idea  amongst  the  natives  is  that  these  Mfiti  will  the  death  of  a  certain 
person  which  they  compass  by  occult  means — namely,  by  secret  spells  and 
charms,  by  the  burying  of  medicine  "  against "  a  person  (that  is,  they  take  some 
stuff*  which  is  supposed  to  possess  mysterious  properties  and  bury  it,  dedicating 
it  as  they  do  so  to  the  individual  whose  death  they  wish  to  bring  about).  Their 
main  object  in  causing  a  person's  death  is  to  be  able  afterwards  to  eat  his  body. 
Of  course  with  this  substratum  of  fact  that  these  acts  of  nauseous  cannibalism 
do  occur,  there  is  an  enormous  amount  of  superstition  mingled.  Supernatural 
powers  are  ascribed  to  these  Mfiti^  with  whom  the  eagle-owl,  the  jackal, 
the  leopard  or  the  hyena  are  specially  associated,  those  creatures  being  supposed 
to  be  the  servants  of  the  witches  or  to  be  the  forms  which  the  sorcerers  assume 
when  they  visit  the  graves  or  dig  up  the  bodies.  The  wizard  is  believed  to  be 
able  to  make  himself  invisible,  to  transport  himself  as  a  spirit  rapidly  from 
place  to  place,  and  to  fly  through  the  air  with  fantastic  gyrations.  He  may 
still  be  invisible  to  ordinary  eyes  while  he  is  taking  up  and  mutilating  the 
corpse.  "When  the  jackal  barks,^  *  there,'  says  the  listener  in  the  night,  *is 
the  messenger  calling  these  midnight  wretches  to  their  awful  orgies ' ;   when 

^  Yet  one  constantly  meets  with  cases  of  it  occurring,  especially  if  the  act  of  cannibalism  be  associated 
with  rage  and  the  desire  to  utterly  consume  the  enemy  or  for  the  wish  to  secure  his  qualities  of  bravery  by 
eating  his  heart.  The  old  Makanjira  met  his  death  through  cannibalism.  He  was  jealous  of  a  headman 
who  had  acquired  power  and  influence  after  Makanjira's  first  defeat  at  the  hands  of  the  British.  He 
had  this  man  secretly  killed,  and  his  body  cooked  and  served  up  with  an  enormous  mess  of  native 
porridge.  A  number  of  chiefs  and  persons  of  importance  were  invited  to  the  feast.  After  it  was  over  they 
were  told  that  the  meat  they  had  consumed  was  the  body  of  So-and-so.  One  young  fellow,  a  nephew 
of  Makanjira,  was  so  enraged  at  having  been  made  to  commit  this  act  unconsciously,  that  he  killed 
Makanjira  then  and  there,  and  thus  avenged  the  deaths  of  Captain  Maguire,  Dr.  Boyce,  and  Mr.  McEwan. 
He  was  however  slain  himself  by  the  chiefs  adherents. 

*  I  quote  from  the  Rev.  D.  C.  R.  Scott,  in  his  Maflanga  Dictionary. 


448  BRITISH    CENTRAL    AFRICA 

a  fire  is  seen  on  a  distant  hill  where  no  fire  should  be,  *  there  is  the  light  of 
their  cooking  fire.'" 

The  grave  is  supposed  to  be  alight,  to  shine  with  a  phosphorescent  light 
where  the  Mfiti  gather.  It  is  said  that  the  wizards  summon  the  dead 
man  by  the  name  of  his  childhood  which  he  laid  aside  on  his  initiation.  Such 
a  summons  he  cannot  resist.  He  emerges  from  the  grave  even  if  it  be  through 
a  small  hole,  then  the  wizards  torture  him  and  knock  him  down,  divide  him 
limb  from  limb,  cook  the  flesh  and  eat  it. 

Naturally  with  beliefs  like  this  it  is  the  constant  object  of  the  more 
wholesome-minded  natives  to  discover  and  destroy  the  abominable  sorcerers, 
and  some  people  are  supposed  to  possess  great  powers  as  witch-finders. 

These  may  be  male  or  female  ;  more  often  than  not  they  are  elderly  women. 
The  witch-finder  is  sent  for  after  the  death  has  occurred  and  stays  for  some 
time  in  the  village  cross-questioning  everyone  she  can  get  hold  of.  She 
pretends  to  have  much  the  same  power  as  the  witches,  and  by  means  of 
medicines  and  charms  to  be  able  to  track  the  witches  at  night-time  in  their 
transformed  shapes.  Having  thus  professed  to  attend  the  witches*  sabbath 
she  discovers  the  names  by  which  they  are  addressed  among  themselves,  and 
then  by  her  own  occult  powers  identifies  these  assumed  names  with  the 
appellations  they  are  known  by  in  the  village. 

Negroes  are  gulled  most  easily  and  by  the  rudest  sleight-of-hand.  They 
will  believe  almost  any  stories  they  are  told.  Probably  what  the  witch-finder 
really  does  is  to  listen  to  all  the  gossip  of  the  village  and  by  observation  to 
ascertain  (i)  if  any  particular  person  had  a  grudge  against  the  deceased  and 
(2)  if  there  is  anyone  in  the  place  who  probably  has  a  leaning  to  the  horrible 
practice  of  rifling  the  grave  and  eating  decayed  human  flesh.  If  she  believes 
herself  to  have  alighted  on  such  a  person  then  she  affects  to  have  arrived  at 
the  knowledge  through  supernatural  means,  and  clothes  her  denunciation  with 
the  sanction  of  the  occult.  When  she  has  made  up  her  mind  she  summons 
the  people  together.  All  the  inhabitants  of  the  village  must  attend.  The 
witch-finder  then  commences  a  fantastic  dance  in  which  she  works  herself  up 
to  the  condition  of  seeming  epilepsy.  She  tears  round  the  informal  circle  of 
spectators,  dashes  first  at  one  then  at  another,  affects  to  smell  them  to  see  if 
she  can  discover  the  odour  of  putrefying  meat ;  at  last  she  pronounces  the 
name  of  the  person,  the  name  which  she  is  supposed  to  have  heard  at  the 
witches'  sabbath.  No  one  replies.  Then  the  witch-finder  says  "that  is  the 
name  by  which  the  Mfiti  is  known  to  the  other  sorcerers :  his  or  her  real 
name  is  such  and  such."  Persons  thus  accused  have  to  submit  to  the  Muavi 
ordeal  to  prove  their  innocence.  The  most  remarkable  thing  about  the  whole 
procedure  is  that  the  witch-finder's  allegations  are  sometimes  supported  by 
the  supposed  culprit  who,  either  from  a  desire  to  enjoy  renown  as  a  wizard 
(with  the  hope  of  vomiting  the  Muavi  and  thus  escaping  the  consequences), 
or  because  he  or  she  may  really  believe  through  disordered  dreams  that  they 
have  the  power  to  do  such  things,  submits  unhesitatingly  to  the  ordeal  and 
does  not  attempt  to  escape. 

No  doubt  it  rests  a  good  deal  with  the  individual  who  prepares  the  Muavi, 
to  make  the  dose  strong  enough  to  prove  fatal  or  weak  enough  to  act  merely  as 
an  emetic. 

A  considerable  amount  of  bribery  is  sometimes  resorted  to  by  the  accused 
or  accused's  friends.  If,  however,  the  muavi  remains  in  the  stomach,  and 
the  wretched  creature   is  unable  to  vomit,  a   murderous  madness  seizes  the 


NATIVES  OF  BRITISH   CENTRAL  AFRICA       449 

surrounding  crowd  and  the  now-convicted  sorcerer  is  lynched,  the  body  being 
subsequently  burnt 

The  negro,  it  will  be  seen,  believes  that  life  does  not  finish  when  the  body 
dies.  He  has  been  led  to  this  vague  hope  of  immortality  insensibly.  It  has 
seemed  impossible  that  the  father  of  the  household,  the  headman  of  the  village, 
or  the  chief  of  the  tribe  could  abruptly  vanish  when  he  has  exercised  such  an 
important  influence  during  his  lifetime.  It  would  appear  as  if  the  Bantu  negro 
had  built  up  God  by  degrees  out  of  ancestor  worship.  Dr.  Bleek  pointed  out 
years  ago  that  the  common  word  for  God  over  the  eastern  half  of  Bantu  Africa 
— Mulungu — could  be  traced  to  the  Zulu  word  "  Munkulunkulu  " — the  great, 
great  one,  or,  the  old,  old  one.  There  is  some  truth  in  this,  but  I  think  that  a 
second  belief  has  come  to  meet  ancestor  worship,  a  belief  in  the  personification 
of  the  heavens,  of  the  sun,  moon,  and  stars,  the  rain,  thunder,  lightning :  some 
mighty  Being  or  Agency  who  exercises  ruling  powers  over  the  Universe,  the 
Being  which  may  by  tribe  after  tribe  have  been  identified  with  some  great  dead 
chief  Still  their  idea  of  God — and  they  all  believe  in  a  supreme  God — is 
somewhat  dissociated  from  their  firm  belief  in  life  beyond  the  grave :  in  the 
existence  after  death  of  their  ancestors,  though  this  existence  is  not  held  to  be 
necessarily  perpetual.  The  ghost  or  its  influence  fades  away  after  a  time.  Yet 
they  believe  that  some  spirits  live  interminably  especially  if  the  deceased  has 
been  a  chief  of  great  influence.  Originally,  no  doubt,  they  were  in  the  habit 
of  thrusting  their  dead  into  caves  or  the  hollows  of  mountains.^  Then  at  other 
times  and  places  dense  forests  were  specially  used  for  the  secretion  of  the  dead 
body  ;  so  in  time  it  came  to  be  thought  that  most  mountains  and  thick  black 
forests  were  haunted  by  spirits  of  deceased  persons.  They  have  the  firmest 
belief  possible  in  ghosts,  and  will  tell  long  circumstantial  stories  about  the 
"  spooks  "  they  have  seen — prosaic  stories  usually  connected  with  daylight,  as 
where  a  woman  declares  that  while  winnowing  or  pounding  corn  in  the  noon- 
tide, she  looked  out  in  the  courtyard  and  saw  the  spirit  of  So-and-so  passing 
along  looking  exactly  as  though  he  were  alive.  It  is  thought  that  these  ghosts 
have  considerable  power  for  good  or  evil,  and  they  are  often  propitiated,  though 
if  they  become  troublesome  (that  is  to  say,  if  vexatious  incidents  occur  or  their 
descendants  fall  sick  or  meet  with  misfortunes)  revenge  may  be  taken  on  the 
bones  of  the  dead  persons  to  whose  spirits  the  annoyance  is  attributed.  They 
are  dug  up  from  their  graves  and  thrown  away,  or  removed  to  a  far  place  to  be 
buried  under  some  tree  which  is  supposed  to  have  a  restraining  influence  over 
the  spirit  Occasionally  one  of  these  departed  ancestors  is  believed  to  have 
taken  an  affection  for  some  eccentric  looking  rock,  or  waterfall  or  rapid,  but  I 
have  never  met  with'any  belief  in  this  part  of  Africa  in  spirits  which  were  like 
the  demigods  of  the  Greeks — the  soul  of  the  river,  the  lake,  the  tree,  the 
mountain.  ^ 

Yet  in  some  tribes  there  is  a  distinct  belief  in  an  evil  deity  either  as  the 

*  There  is  a  large  native  sepulchre  in  a  ravine  at  Zomba  mountain  with  precipitous  sides.  Into  this 
hole  many  dead  persons  have  been  thrown,  and  their  whitened  bones  can  be  seen  there.  There  are 
numerous  legends  about  all  the  great  mountains  of  the  Shire  Highlands.  In  the  caves  of  this  mountain 
such  and  such  a  chief  was  buried  ;  on  that  hill  another,  and  so  on,  these  mountains  now  being  more  or  less 
the  home  of  the  chiefs'  spirits. 

'  Dr.  Cross  differs  from  me  in  this  respect.  He  asserts  that  a  belief  of  this  kind  in  earth  and  water- 
spirits  is  held  by  the  Wankonde.  I  am  inclined  to  think  that  it  would  be  found  that  these  lesser  divinities 
are  really  the  spirits  of  departed  ancestors  who  may  be  associated  with  some  remarkable  object  or  scenery. 
Still  the  Wankonde  are  a  people  somewhat  apart  and  peculiar  who  have  evidently  been  isolated  for 
centuries  at  the  north  end  of  like  Nyasa,  and  have  maintained  many  old  beliefs  elsewhere  worn  away 
just  as  they  have  retained  a  singularly  archaic  form  of  Bantu  language. 

29 


450  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

rival  ruler  of  the  universe  or  as  an  alternative  to  the  good  God,  in  short  some 
tribes  believe — without  outside  influence — in  a  devil;  This  is  the  case  with  the 
Wankonde  at  the  north  end  of  Lake  Nyasa,  who,  according  to  Dr.  Cross^ 
believe  that  Mbase  (the  spirit  of  evil)  lives  in  a  remarkable  cave  in  the  side 
of  the  mountain  called  Ikombwe.  This  cave  has  stalactites  and  stalag^mites 
in  abundance.  As  Mbase  is  considered  to  be  the  source  of  many  troubles 
people  worship  him  and  propitiate  him  constantly.  When  Dr.  Cross  visited 
the  cave  it  was  nearly  filled  up  with  old  broken  pots  and  rotten  cloth.  These 
pots  had  been  deposited  full  of  meal  for  hundreds  of  years  in  the  cave  so  that 
it  is  now  almost  blocked  up.  Two  years  ago  a  harum-scarum  son  of  chief 
Mwankenja  determined  to  set  Mbase  at  defiance  and  robbed  his  cave  of  large 
quantities  of  cloth  and  offerings  of  brass-wire  and  beads.  As  no  harm 
happened  to  him  subsequently  the  belief  in  an  evil  spirit  is  said  to  have 
received  a  severe  shock,  and  this,  with  the  growing  influence  of  the  missionaries, 
is  bringing  about  a  cessation  of  the  worship. 

With  all  this  implicit  belief  in  the  lingering  life  or  the  immortality  of  the 
soul  after  death,  the  natives  of  Central  Africa  do  not  believe  in  any  form 
of  resurrection.  All  these  peoples  have  numerous  sayings  and  proverbs 
expressive  of  the  fact  that  the  dead  never  return.  If  they  analysed  their 
own  beliefs  they  would  probably  admit  that  in  most  cases  spirit  life  had  a 
definite  duration,  after  which  it  faded  away  into  the  central  God,  "  Mulungu,** 
or  into  nothingness.     Certain  great  men  might  linger  on  for  centuries. 

At  the  north  end  of  Lake  Nyasa  the  natives  constantly  offer  sacrifices 
to  the  spirits  of  the  dead.  Secret  places  for  worship  are  known  as  Ilisieta 
(plur.  Amasieta).  They  are  usually  thick  clumps  of  forest  or  groves  of  trees 
in  which  people  have  been  buried  for  generations.  The  offering  is  generally 
a  bullock.  The  animal  is  killed  by  striking  it  on  the  back  of  the  neck  with 
a  sharp  axe  of  a  special  kind  kept  for  the  purpose.  The  blood  is  carefully 
collected  and  poured  over  the  ground  in  one  of  the  Amasieta.  Prayers  are 
then  offered  to  the  spirits  of  the  forefathers.  The  head  of  the  ox  is  laid  on  the 
ground  as  a  further  offering  while  the  rest  of  the  body  is  consumed  by  the 
worshippers. 

Divination  and  the  drawing  of  lots  are  constantly  practised.  In  Southern 
Nyasaland  it  is  a  common  practice  to  ascertain  whether  a  certain  journey  will 
be  favourable  by  sticking  a  knife  in  the  grass  and  leaning  against  the  blade  two 
small  sticks,  or  else  by  laying  two  tiny  sticks  on  the  ground  and  placing  a  third 
one  athwart  the  two.  The  person  making  the  experiment  then  turns  aside  for 
a  minute  or  two  and  if  on  looking  at  the  sticks  again  one  or  other  is  found 
to  have  fallen  to  the  ground  from  against  the  blade  of  the  knife,  or  if  the  stick 
laid  athwart  the  other  two  is  disturbed  in  its  position  (from  any  passing  breeze) 
then  the  omen  is  a  bad  one.  Among  the  more  superstitious  A-nyanja,  muavi 
or  other  medicines  are  given  to  fowls  or  to  goats.  (There  is  evidence  to  show 
that  originally  the  medicine  would  have  been  given  to  a  slave.)  If  the  creature 
thus  doctored  dies  it  is  an  ill  omen,  if  the  reverse  a  good  omen.  This  is  used 
constantly  to  try  the  good  faith  of  strangers.  Colonel  Edwards,  Mr.  Sharpe 
and  myself  have  often  sat  anxiously  waiting  for  the  result  of  some  such  ordeal 
in  visiting  a  suspicious  tribe,  and  have  been  delighted  to  see  the  fowl  eject  the 
noxious  dose  from  its  crop,  or  the  goat  refuse  the  bolus,  knowing  then  that  our 
cause  was  gained.  Besides  the  great  Muavi  ordeal  there  are  other  methods 
of  testing  guilt  or  innocence.  People  will  plunge  their  hands  into  boiling 
water.     If  not  scalded  they  are  innocent.     A  remarkable  instance  of  divining 


NATIVES  OF  BRITISH   CENTRAL  AFRICA       451 

occurs  amongst  the  Wankonde.  They  use  a  divining  stick — apparently  a  long 
flexible  wand  which  has  been  partly  bent  or  snapped  below  the  portion  seized 
by  the  hand,  so  that  it  is  provided  with  a  kind  of  hinge  and  is  susceptible 
to  the  least  tremor.  When  a  person  is  accused  of  stealing  they  commence 
by  burning  certain  roots  in  a  fire.  The  rod  is  then  shaken  over  the  fire  while 
simultaneously  they  call  upon  the  spirits  of  the  departed  to  use  it  as  a  means 
of  enabling  the  diviner  to  discover  the  thief.  The  thief-finder  then  starts  off 
on  his  quest  much  as  a  thought-reader  might  do.  Whichever  way  the  rod 
waggles  the  diviner  follows  and  at  last  he  affects  to  have  been  led  to  a  certain 
house,  the  owner  of  which  is  taken  to  be  the  thief 

Another  widespread  belief  lies  in  the  power  of  certain  wizards  to  make  lions 
or  other  wild  beasts  or  to  inspire  such  as  are  naturally  created  with  a  mission  to 
destroy.  Dr.  Cross  informs  me  that  there  is  a  man  in  the  Bundale  country  at 
the  north  end  of  Lake  Nyasa  who  is  believed  to  make  lions.  He  is  very  old  and 
lives  in  great  seclusion,  and  is  said  to  have  several  lions  lying  in  the  long  grass 
surrounding  his  house.  He  can  make  these  lions  do  his  will,  and  if  properly 
paid  will  undertake  the  commission  of  sending  the  lions  to  a  specified  neighbour- 
hood to  devour  or  harass  the  people.  Should  one  man  have  a  dispute  with 
another  he  can  enforce  his  case  powerfully  by  these  means.  "  I  have  frequently 
been  astonished,"  writes  Dr.  Cross,  "to  see  how  tenaciously  even  the  most 
intelligent  cling  to  this  belief.  They  are  firmly  convinced  that  lions  do  not 
roam  aimlessly  but  are  sent  to  a  neighbourhood  with  a  definite  object  in  view." 

When  we  were  preparing  our  expedition  to  fight  the  great  slave-raiding 
chief,  Matipwiri  (to  the  east  of  Mount  Mlanje  in  South  Nyasaland),  he  sent  to 
another  Yao  chief,  Zarafi,  for  assistance.  Zarafi  could  not  aid  him  in  men  or 
guns  but  sent  his  son,  who  was  reputed  to  be  a  wizard,  to  make  spells  which 
should  raise  up  all  the  lions,  leopards,  and  hyenas  in  Matipwiri's  country 
against  the  invading  force.  These  animals  were  to  meet  us  half  way  in  the 
wilderness  and  utterly  destroy  us.  The  absurd  thing  was  that  Matipwiri 
and  his  brother  chief  Mtiramanja,  although  they  were  intelligent  men  (Matipwiri 
had  once  obtained,  probably  from  a  trader,  the  full  uniform  of  a  Portuguese 
colonel,  and  used  to  style  himself  a  colonel  in  the  Portuguese  Army ! ),  who  had 
constant  intercourse  with  the  coast,  they  nevertheless  believed  in  the  super- 
natural powers  of  Kadewere,  the  wizard  referred  to ;  and  were  so  convinced 
that  the  wild  animals  would  stop  us  from  coming  that  they  remained  in  their 
villages  until  our  troops  entered  the  suburbs.  Even  then  on  the  first  day  of 
our  invasion  they  made  but  a  faint  resistance,  so  astounded  were  they  that 
the  lions  and  leopards  had  not  obeyed  the  orders  of  their  master  to  harass  our 
expedition. 

Amongst  other  beliefs  is  a  certain  dread  of  women  who  are  menstruating. 
It  is  thought  that  if  a  woman  in  this  condition  puts  salt  into  the  food  her 
husband  or  child  eating  the  food  will  then  become  ill  and  hot  and  feverish,  with 
a  bad  cough.  Also  it  is  believed  that  if  a  husband  or  wife  has  been  guilty 
of  adultery  and  while  under  the  shadow  of  the  fault  puts  salt  into  the  food  the 
children  eating  thereof  will  fall  sick. 

A  belief  that  certain  persons  have  power  over  the  atmosphere  so  that  they 
can  make  rain  fall  or  wind  rise  or  drop  is  universal,  though  it  is  not  perhaps  such 
a  prominent  subject  of  consideration  as  in  Africa  south  of  the  Zambezi  where 
the  gradual  desiccation  of  the  country  makes  the  fall  of  a  shower  a  crying 
necessity. 

At  the  north  end  of  Lake   Nyasa  there  was  an   old  rain-maker  named 


452  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

Mwaka  Sungula,  much  revered  for  his  powers  of  bringing  down  rain  or  of* 
changing  the  wind.  He  was  often  resorted  to  when  the  weather  required 
amendment.  Some  six  or  seven  years  ago  the  African  Lakes  Company's 
steamer  Domira  was  stranded  in  the  shallows  a  little  distance  to  the  north  of 
Karonga.  Hundreds  of  natives  were  employed  for  days  tugging  and  hauling 
and  pushing  at  the  steamer  without  any  result ;  she  still  remained  hopelessly 
stuck  in  the  sand.  At  last  they  called  Mwaka  Sungula  to  their  assistance. 
Having  been  "  squared  "  by  a  small  present  he  went  through  several  incantations 
in  the  evening  of  the  day  and  wound  up  by  sprinkling  the  blood  of  a  white  cock 
on  the  natives  around  the  steamer.  Next  morning  the  steamer  was  afloat.  The 
wind  had  changed  in  the  night,  had  blown  up  the  water  of  the  lake  and  raised 
the  vessel  from  off  the  sandbank.  Naturally  ever  since  all  failures  of  Mwaka 
Sungula  have  been  forgotten  in  the  face  of  this  one  crowning  success. 

Among  other  superstitions  in  Northern  Nyasaland  no  woman  will  state  the 
name  of  her  husband  or  even  use  a  word  that  may  be  synonymous  with  his 
name.^  If  she  were  to  call  him  by  his  proper  name  she  considers  it  would  be 
unlucky  and  affect  her  powers  of  conception.  In  the  same  way  the  women  do 
not,  for  superstitious  reasons,  use  the  common  names  of  articles  of  food  but 
special  terms  peculiar  to  the  women's  use. 

The  life  of  an  African  is  rigidly  ruled  by  custom.  He  is  more  of  a  slave  to 
custom  than  the  average  European.  I  have  noticed  most  of  the  ceremonies 
connected  with  birth,  marriage,  death  and  burial ;  but  all  the  important  phases 
and  functions  of  their  lives  are  attended  with  special  customs,  almost  invariably 
expressed  by  much  dancing,  and  brewing,  drinking,  and  libations  of  native  beer. 
At  the  beginning  of  the  hoeing  season  (say  October)  feasts  are  held.  In  some 
cases  there  is  a  "  hoe  "  dance,  wherein  the  dancers  carry  hoes  which  they  strike 
together  with  a  musical  clang,  in  rhythm  with  the  beating  of  the  drums.  Beer 
is  brewed  from  various  grains  in  great  quantities  and  not  only  drunk  by  the 
dancers  but  poured  out  on  the  soil  in  libations.  Much  the  same  is  done  at 
harvest  time.  No  important  journey  is  undertaken  without  small  sacrifices 
to  ancestors  and  consulting  the  oracle  by  means  of  the  small  *'  divination  " 
sticks  already  described,  which  according  to  whether  they  shift  their  position 
or  not  determine  a  man  whether  he  shall  stay  or  go.  A  snake  or  a  hare 
crossing  his  path  at  starting  will  turn  him  back ;  the  sight  of  the  stinking 
Ponera  ant  will  encourage  him  ;  still  more  the  song  of  certain  birds. 

These  negroes  delight  in  fables  and  in  beast  stories.  They  may  be  truly 
said  to  "speak  in  parables,"  parabolic  metaphor  entering  largely  into  their 
speech.  In  the  beast  stories — which  are  usually  somewhat  inane  and  without 
a  very  clear  point — the  Hyena,  the  Leopard,  the  Jackal,  the  Tortoise,  the  Owl, 
and  the  Hare  figure  principally,  the  Hare  being  usually  the  leading  character 
and  taking  the  place  of  the  Fox  in  European  folk-lore  for  cunning  and  inde- 
pendence of  action,  while  the  Hyena  is  nearly  always  the  butt,  the  greedy  fool 
who  is  the  victim  of  practical  jokes.  It  is  difficult  to  see  how  this  view  of  the 
Hare's  character  arose,  as  the  African  species  of  this  animal  do  not  strike  a 
European  as  being  particularly  astute  or  wily.  These  stories  are  very  similar 
to  such  as  are  found  in  Zululand  and  elsewhere  in  Bantu  Africa. 

Riddles,   proverbs,   and    "hard    sayings"   are    most    numerous    in    all    the 

^  There  is  a  remarkable  degree  of  demonstrative  affection  between  the  Wankonde  husband  and  wife, 
a  phase  of  character  very  rare  amongst  Central  African  negroes.  This  has  been  noticed  by  many  travellers 
— Thomson,  Giraud,  Nicoll,  Fotheringham,  Dr.  Kerr  Cross  and  myself. 


NATIVES  OF  BRITISH   CENTRAL  AFRICA       453 


-languages,  and  are  favourite  exercises  of  ingenuity  and  wit     Here  are  some 
samples  culled  from  the  Rev.  D.  C.  R.  Scott's  Mafianja  Dictionary : 

"  T  built  my  house  without  a  door.*' 

Answer:  "An  egg." 

"  My  hen  laid  eggs  in  the  thorns." 

Answer:  "The  tongue  between  the  teeth." 

"  The  sick  man  does  not  wish  to  run,  but  when  he  sees  this  he  must ;  the  chief  who 
comes  to  this  must  run  whether  he  will  or  no." 

Answer:  "A  steep  descent." 

"When  either  a  man  or  a  seed  dies  there  grows  up  another."  (There  are  as  many 
good  fish  in  the  sea  as  ever  came  out  of  it.) 

In  regard  to  their  habitations :  the  original  form  of  house  throughout  all 
British  Central  Africa  was  what  the  majority  of  the  houses  still  are — circular 
and  somewhat  like  a  beehive  in  shape  with  round  walls  of  wattle  and  daub  and 
thatched  roof  This  style  of 
house  is  characteristic  of  (a) 
all  Africa  south  of  the  Zambezi; 
{b)  all  British  Central  Africa ; 
as  much  of  the  Portuguese 
Provinces  of  Zambezia  and 
Mozambique  as  are  not  under 
direct  Portuguese  or  Muham- 
madan  influence  which  may 
have  introduced  the  rect- 
angular dwelling  ;  {c)  all  East 
Africa^  up  to  and  including 
the  Egyptian  Sudan,  where 
Arab  influence  has  not  intro- 
duced the  oblong  rectangular 
building ;  {d)  the  Central 
Nigerian  Sudan,  much  of 
Senegambia,  and  perhaps  the 
West  Coast  of  Africa  as  far 
east  and  south  as  the  Gold 
Coast,  subject  of  course  to  the  same  limitations  as  to  foreign  influence. 

But  over  the  greater  part  of  the  Congo  Basin  (with  a  few  marked  exceptions 
in  the  north-east  and  east  of  that  region)  and  the  western  part  of  Africa  down 
as  far  south  as  Mossamedes,  the  house  is  rectangular  in  shape  but  sometimes 
a  very  long  building  indeed  or  a  great  many  houses  united  to  form  the  side  of  a 
street.^ 

This  rectangular  house  in  Western  Africa  is  so  universal  and  is  found  in  such 
remote  districts  as  are  only  being  entered  for  the  first  time  by  white  men  at  the 
present  day,  that  it  is  improbable  it  could  owe  its  origin  to  the  Portuguese, 
and  there  has  been  no  other  extraneous  influence  over  those  regions  within  the 
historical  period.  Nevertheless,  Portuguese  influence  never  spread  very  far 
beyond  the  coast  in  West  Africa  and  there  is  evidence  in  all  books  of  travel 

^  In  parts  of  East  Africa,  the  normal  type  of  house  differs  from  the  ordinary  round  house  of  Central 
Africa  by  being  more  exactly  beehive-like  in  shape,  with  the  thatch  of  the  roof  touching  the  ground.  See 
for  this  the  illustrations  in  my  book  on  Kilimanjaro. 

*  Samples  of  these  different  kinds  of  houses  are  illustrated  in  my  book  on  the  River  Congo. 


A  TYPICAL   NATIVE   HOUSE   IN   SOUTH   NYASALAND 


454 


BRITISH   CENTRAL   AFRICA 


to  show  that  the  rectangular  house  was  found  there  when  the  first  Portuguese 
explorers  arrived  in  West  Africa. 

The  native  house  of  the  White  Nile,  of  Nyasaland  and  of  Zululand  is  so 
similar  in  structure  that  in  photographs  taken  in  these  different  countries  it  is 
difficult  to  say  to  what  part  of  East,  Central  or  South  Africa  the  building  belongs. 
But  although  for  an  ordinary  dwelling  this  round  house  is  universal  (except 
where  a  different  style  of  architecture  has  been  introduced  by  coast  men  or 
Europeans),  rectangular  buildings  are  made,  especially  for  housing  cattle  or 

occasionally  for  providing  a 
large  dormitory  for  the  un- 
married men,  or  a  kind  of 
shelter  under  which  the  elders 
of  the  village  may  gather. 

The  houses  are  usually  con- 
structed of  these  materials: — 
A  wooden  framework  is  made 
in  a  circle  marking  the  size  of 
the    hut ;    it    is    composed    of 
strong   poles.      Around   these, 
split  bamboos  are  bound  trans- 
versely which  are  tied  together 
tightly  by  wetted  bark-rope  on 
either   side   of  the   pole   they 
clasp.      The  bamboo  ribs  are 
close  together,  and  the  structure 
resembles    roughly   the    com- 
mencement of  a  huge  hamper. 
In  between  the  split  bamboos 
mud  is  squeezed.    This  mud  is 
usually  made  by  women  care- 
fully puddling  it  with  their  feet, 
and  the  mudding  of  the  houses 
is  nearly  always  done  by  women. 
In  most  of  the  houses  of  Nyasaland  after  roughly  filling  in  the  interval  between 
the  wattles  by  this  thick  mud  a  further  coating  of  mud  is  plastered  on  both 
sides.     This  mudding  is  done  right  up  to  the  top  of  the  round  wall.     After  the 
first  coating  the  mud  dries ^nd  cracks.     The  cracks  are  then  filled  up  with  more 
mud  until  the  surface  is  fairly  smooth.     Sometimes  cow-dung  or  a  little  lime  is 
mixed  with  the  outer  coating  of  mud,  and  the  floor  may  likewise  be  prepared 
with  hard  mud  mixed  with  cow-dung.    The  level  of  the  house  is  usually  slightly 
raised  above  the  surrounding  ground.     There  is  an  outer  circle  of  posts  going 
partly  round  the  house  which  eventually  constitutes  a  verandah,  and  the  floor 
of  the  verandah  is  also  of  hard  mud  raised  about  six  inches  to  a  foot  above  the 
ground.     The  Wankonde  build  rather  a  special  type  of  house.     The  walls  are 
not  straight,  but  slope  outwards  from  the  bottom.     The  interstices  between 
the  neatly-bound  wattles  of  bamboo  are  filled  not  with  an  indiscriminate  mass 
of  mud,  but  with  round  bricks  of  white  clay,  giving  a  much  neater  appearance 
to  the  houses.     The  style  in  which  these  Wankonde  houses  are  built  will  be 
better  understood  by  the  accompanying  illustration  than  by  any  further  verbal 
description. 

When  the  walls  of  the  house  are  complete  the  roof  is  made.     Usually  this 


A   NKONDE   HOUSE 


NATIVES  OF  BRITISH   CENTRAL  AFRICA       455 

is  done  by  constructing  apart  from  the  house  a  huge  framework  of  thin  poles 
and  bamboo,  shaped  like  a  funnel  and  coming  to  a  sharp  apex  at  the  top. 
When  the  walls  of  the  hut  are  dry  this  skeleton  roof  is  hoisted  and  poised  over 
them.  Men  then  ascend  and  begin  to  cover  the  framework  with  thatch.  They 
commence  at  the  bottom,  usually  with  separate  bundles  of  grass  which  are  tied 
on  to  the  bamboo  withes.  Sometimes  the  thatching  is  very  neatly  executed ; 
at  other  times  a  large  quantity  of  grass  seems  to  have  been  carelessly  thrown  on 
to  it ;  but  the  disorder  is  more  apparent  than  real,  the  outer  surface  of  the  grass 
having  been  blown  about  by  the  winds.  The  well-thatched  roof  of  a  native 
house  is  singularly  rain-proof. 

In  larger  round  houses  there  are  naturally  modifications  of  this  style  of 
building.  There  may  be  one  or  more  poles  of  considerable  height  rising  up 
from  the  central  part  of  the  hut  and  assisting  to  support  the  roof,  the  rafters 
of  which  will  be  the  long,  light,  but  strong  midribs  of  the  Raphia  palm. 
Attached  to  the  house  there  is  almost  always  a  yard  enclosed  by  a  reed  fence 
of  nearly  six  feet  in  height  and  communicating  with  the  verandah.  In  this 
yard  the  women  do  almost  all  their  cooking.  The  interior  of  the  hut  is  usually 
divided  into  two  sides,  one  called  "  the  side  for  sleep,"  the  other  "  the  side  for 
the  fire."  The  interior  of  the  huts  is  very  dark,  because  there  are  no  windows, 
and  the  low  door  admits  but  little  light  owing  the  overhanging  eaves  of  the 
roof  round  the  verandah. 

A  wood  fire  is  constantly  burning  inside  the  hut  which  gives  the  rafters 
a  black  and  shiny  appearance  and  causes  disagreeable  cobwebs  of  soot  to  hang 
from  the  interior  of  the  roof 

Rectangular  houses  of  course  are  built  in  a  different  style ;  the  structure 
of  the  roof  of  the  house  forms  part  of  the  original  framework  and  grows 
as  the  house  grows  in  building.  There  is  a  little  skill  in  joinery  shown  in 
putting  up  these  rectangular  houses,  but  it  must  be  regarded  as  due  to  the 
teaching  of  the  white  man  or  the  Arab.  All  fastening  of  poles,  however, 
except  where  foreign  influence  prevails,  is  done  by  lashing  with  bark-rope.  I 
think  the  case  of  native  building  is  one  of  arrested  development.  It  is 
wonderful  how  smart  they  are  in  running  up  temporary  houses.  The  forest 
provides  them  with  all  they  want — poles  being  obtained  by  cutting  down 
saplings  and  severing  the  spreading  branches ;  bark-rope  is  made  by  soaking 
the  bark  in  water — when  it  dries  it  contracts  and  therefore  binds  very  tightly, 
moreover  the  bark  lasts  undecayed  for  years.  Bamboos  which  can  be  split 
or  used  whole  as  the  case  may  require  are  very  useful  wattles ;  grass  to  thatch 
the  roof  and  reeds  with  which  to  make  fences  or  gates  are  all  at  hand ;  while 
the  nearest  ant-hill  will  supply  material  for  mudding  the  walls  and  making 
raised  seats  for  benches  or  beds. 

It  was  reported  by  earlier  travellers  that  on  the  east  coast  of  Lake  Nyasa 
villages  had  been  built  on  piles  by  the  timid  A-nyanja  people  who  preferred 
to  live  out  in  the  lake  to  avoid  the  attacks  of  slave-raiders.  I  have  never 
succeeded  in  seeing  any  of  these  pile  dwellings  though  I  am  told  they  are  also 
built  on  Lake  Chiuta.  When  I  first  saw  Lake  Nyasa  they  had  all  disappeared, 
and  I  found  the  inhabitants  who  dreaded  the  raiding  of  Magwangwara  or 
Wa-yao  lived  on  small  islands  or  islets  where  their  little  beehive  houses  were 
perched  amid  the  stones. 

As  a  rule  each  grown-up  individual  has  a  house  to  him  or  her  self,  though 
amongst  very  poor  folk  husband  and  wife  may  share  the  same  dwelling.  But 
a  man  who  has  several  wives  will  probably  have  a  house  to  himself  and  each 


456  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

of  his  wives  will  occupy  her  own  dwelling.  There  is  often  a  large  house  built 
to  be  used  in  common  by  the  unmarried  men  and  boys  of  the  village.  Where 
this  is  not  the  case  the  mother  will  cause  a  small  hut  to  be  built  near  to  her 
own  to  be  occupied  by  her  boy  children  when  they  are  too  old  to  share  the  hut 
with  her.  Girls  will  probably  continue  to  use  the  mother's  dwelling  till  they 
are  married. 

There  is  little  or  no  order  in  which  the  village  is  built.  A  chief  suddenly 
determines  to  found  a  new  settlement  He  starts  with  most  of  his  people, 
selects  a  site,  and  houses  are  quickly  run  up  with  little  or  no  relation  to  each 
other,  but  all  tolerably  close  together.  There  is  usually  reserved,  however, 
a  large  space  of  open  ground  more  or  less  in  the  middle  of  the  village.  This 
is  called  in  Chi-nyanja  the  Bwalo^  and  the  place  selected  usually  has  a  large 
and  shady  tree.  If  there  is  not,  however  (or  if  there  is,  in  addition  to  the  tree), 
a  rough  building  may  be  run  up  with  open  sides  and  grass  roof,  under  which 
shelter  can  be  obtained  from  the  sun  during  the  daytime.  In  this  open  piece 
of  common  land  all  the  public  meetings  and  dances  take  place ;  and  here 
the  "Milandu,"  or  judicial  cases  are  tried  by  the  chief  or  headman  and  his 
assistants. 

The  vicinity  of  native  houses  is  usually  kept  fairly  clean.  Much  of  the 
refuse  is  eaten  up  by  village  dogs,  fowls,  and  goats,  but  apparently  the  natives 
from  time  to  time  carry  it  away  into  the  bush.  I  do  not  mean  to  state  that 
the  lanes  between  the  houses  and  their  precincts  are  always  clean,  but  they 
are  seldom  encumbered  by  such  filth  as  one  would  see  in  any  squalid  Eastern 
town  or  village. 

Interspersed  amongst  the  houses  of  the  village  are  the  Mikokwe  or  granaries. 
These  are  huge  circular  erections  of  basket-work  plastered  with  mud  outside 
and  built  on  a  raised  platform,  standing  on  short  legs  made  of  forked  branches 
stuck  into  the  ground.  The  platform  is  built  in  such  a  way  as  to  make  it 
difficult  for  rats  to  ascend  to  the  granary.  The  roof  is  funnel-shaped  and 
thatched.  Henhouses  of  wicker-work  are  often  built  and  are  usually  placed 
on  a  raised  platform.  Rough  dove-cots  are  put  up  for  the  pigeons  where 
these  birds  are  kept.  But  the  goats  are  either  housed  in  a  small  house  or  hut. 
In  any  of  the  places  where  leopards  are  dangerous  the  goats  and  sheep  are 
sheltered  at  night  in  pens  made  from  stout  planks  placed  side  by  side,  with 
a  roof  of  heavy  logs.  The  goats  are  let  in  or  out  by  removing  one  or  more 
stakes. 

The  planks  of  the  goathouse  are  hewn,  not  sawn.  The  native,  until  taught 
by  the  European,  had  absolutely  no  idea  of  sawing  wood,  nor  has  he  much 
notion  of  splitting  by  means  of  wedges.  He  quite  ignores  joinery  in  his 
furniture  and  all  articles  are  hewn  out  of  the  solid  block.  This  is  the 
case  with  his  wooden  spoons  and  ladles,  his  pillows  or  head-rests,  his  wooden 
mortars,  pestles,  benches — all  his  simple  implements  and  articles  of  furniture. 
Likewise  when  he  wishes  to  obtain  planks  for  any  purpose  they  have  to  be 
adzed  from  logs  of  wood  and  are  consequently  very  thick. 

Canoes  are  mere  dug-outs.  Certain  trees  of  the  forest,  such  as  the  Parin- 
ariums,  are  used  for  canoe  making.  A  large  party  of  men  go  to  the  forest  not 
far  from  the  river  bank  and  there  cut  down  one  of  these  trees  in  such  a  way 
as  to  allow  it  to  fall  on  a  slope  towards  the  water.  Then  they  commence 
to  hollow  it  out,  partly  by  burning  and  partly  by  incessant  chipping  with 
their  small  adzes.  The  canoe  is  at  last  hewn  into  shape.  If  there  are  any 
cracks  in  it  they  are  covered  by  patches  of  wood  which  may  be  fastened  on 


NATIVES  OF  BRITISH   CENTRAL  AFRICA       457 


by  drilling  holes  through  which  leather  thongs  or  bark  strings  are  passed 
and  tightly  tied.  All  small  holes  and  apertures  are  stopped  up  with  india- 
rubber  derived  from  the  rubber  vines  or  some  other  source.  Smooth,  lopped 
branches  of  trees  are  placed  on  the  ground  as  rollers  and  an  enormous  crowd 
of  people  push  the  canoe  down 
to  the  water  and  launch  it. 
The  canoes  are  worked  by 
punting  poles  and  by  paddles.^ 
Though  the  natives  seem  to 
have  little  idea  of  using  the 
mast  and  sail  they  rapidly  pick 
up  the  notion  when  taught  by 
Arab  or  European. 

The  people  of  Nyasaland 
and  of  most  parts  of  British 
Central  Africa  near  the  great 
lakes  or  rivers  become  singu- 
larly adept  in  the  management 
of  boats  and  ships.  All  the 
.seamen  on  the  lake  gunboats 
are  now  natives  of  the  country, 
whereas  formerly  we  imported 
sailors  from  Zanzibar,  or  even 
employed  bluejackets  from  the 
l^ritish  Navy.^  The  natives 
can  be  taught  to  row  well,  and  are  very  smart  in  managing  sails.  Not 
infrequently  the  launching  of  a  canoe  is  accompanied  by  feasts  and  dances  and 
by  prayers  to  the  ancestral  spirits  with  their  accompanying  libations  or  sacrifices. 
The  large  importation  of  European  cloth  has  almost  killed  the  native 
weaving  industry.  Before  the  advent  of  Europeans  they  wove — and  in  outlying 
districts  they  still  weave — very  coarse- textured  cotton  cloth.  As  is  probably 
well  known  to  my  readers  the  cotton  plant  grows  wild  or  semi-wild  over  large 
portions  of  this  country  and  the  cotton  produced  is 
excellent.  It  is  spun  by  the  natives  and  woven  by 
them  in  the  following  manner: — A  frame  is  made 
of  two  heavy  smooth  bars  of  wood  supported  at  either 
end  by  a  couple  of  short  posts  which  bifurcate.  The 
beams  are  steadied  and  fastened  to  the  ground  by 
pegs.  The  cotton  threads  are  then  stretched  across 
the  frame  lengthwise,  from  end  to  end.  The  alternate 
threads  are  "locked"  on  a  smooth  stick  (ordinarily  a 
bamboo).  When  these  alternate  threads  are  raised  a 
long  bamboo  shuttle  with  the  cotton  thread  wound 
round  the  end  is  passed  between  the  upper  and  lower 
threads  and  the  cross -thread  is  tapped  up  tightly  by 
another  smooth  bamboo.  The  cloth  is  usually  finished 
with  a  fringe. 


NATIVES   MAKING   A   PRONE  TREE  TRUNK    INTO  A   CANOE 


A   RIVER   PILOT 
(Mnyanja,  of  the  Lower  Shire) 


'  Outriggers  are  ignored.  All  canoes  are  of  rough  construction,  simple  dug-outs,  and  have  no  seats, 
no  elaboration,  no  ornament.  Punting  poles  {mapondo)  are  usually  of  bamboo  and  are  much  used  in 
shallow  rivers. 

*  We  only  employ  naval  seamen  now  as  petty  officers. 


458 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


Baskets  of  many  kinds  and  shapes  are  made.  There  is  the  mtanga,  a 
basket  made  by  weaving  flat  strips  of  cane  or  wood  over  a  framework  of  more 
rigid  circles  of  wood  which  are  sometimes  the  midribs  of  palm  fronds,  some- 
times split  and  pared  bamboos.  This  style  of  basket  usually  has  a  solid  wooden 
rim  of  some  flexible  white  wood.  Then  there  are  large  flat  baskets  of  tightly- 
plaited  straw  with  a  firm  rim  of  wood,  which  are  used  for  winnowing  meal. 
Small  baskets  are  made  for  holding  all  manner  of  food,  grain,  eggs,  etc.     Some 


WEAVING   IN   ANGONILAND 


of  these  baskets,  especially  in ,  cattle-keeping  countries,  are  so  admirably  and 
tightly  plaited  that  they  will  hold  milk.  Enormously  large  baskets,  shaped 
somewhat  like  a  demijohn,  are  closely  woven  and  in  addition  are  smeared  with 
sticky,  rubber-like  juice  derived  from  the  roots  of  a  shrub,  and  are  then  imper- 
vious to  water.  These  baskets  are  used  for  holding  beer.  Some  baskets  of 
plaited  straw  are  made  to  fit  into  one  another  so  that  one  acts  as  a  cover  to  the 
other.  A  somewhat  flattened  form,  known  amongst  the  A-nyanja  and  Wa-yao 
as  mtungwi,  is  made  out  of  a  soft,  flexible  wood  in  two  pieces,  one  of  which  is 
slightly  scooped  out  to  form  the  bottom  of  the  basket,  and  the  other,  a  broad 
strip  of  wood,  is  bent  round  and  attached  to  the  sides  of  this  flat  piece  so  that 
one  half  of  the  basket  is  thus  formed.    The  sides  are  often  beautifully  decorated 


NATIVES  OF  BRITISH   CENTRAL  AFRICA       459 

by  staining  the  white  wood  black  and  then  cutting  away  portions,  leaving  a 
raised  pattern  of  black  on  white.  Occasionally  these  bands  of  thin  wood  are 
attached  to  baskets  which  have  bottoms  of  plaited  straw.  Sometimes  sandals 
are  made  of  basket-work. 

Pottery,  like  many  other  arts  in  Central  Africa,  has  retrogressed  from  a  once 
higher  standard  to  a  low  one.  The  old  earthenware  we  dig  up  from  time  to 
time  is  superior  in  design,  shape, 
and  finish  to  the  native  pottery  of 
the  present  day.  The  women  are 
the  potters.  The  best  pottery  is 
made  at  the  north  end  of  Lake 
Nyasa,  on  German  territory,  by  the 
Ba-kese  people.  The  kind  of  pottery 
ordinarily  made  is  : — {a)  cooking 
pots — wide  mouth,  no  neck,  sides 
nearly  perpendicular ;  {b)  porridge 
pots  —  shaped  very  similarly  ;  {c) 
large  ovoid  beer  pots — shaped  like 
^^  ^^^  with  the  pointed  end  cut 
off;  (d)  water  jars — with  a  **neck" 
broadening  into  an  everted  rim ; 
{e)  round  pots  with  a  hole  at  the  weaving  on  the  nvasa-tanganyika  plateau 
top  :    some   of  these   have  a  short 

narrow  neck ;  (/)  many  kinds  of  small  pots  resembling  the  preceding  some- 
what in  shape — used  for  storing  medicines,  condiments,  fat  and  salt ;  {g)  saucers 
and  pans ;  (Jt)  the  bowls  of  pipes.  Some  of  the  smaller  ware  is  coloured  with 
red  oxide  or  a  black  glaze.  The  inscribed  patterns  are  not  of  any  elaborate 
design  and  much  of  the  pottery  is  without  any  ornamentation.  Such  decoration 
as  there  is,  is  either  made  by  cutting  marks  into  the  soft  clay  with  a  sharp 
pointed  stick  or  else  painting  a  design  in  black  or  red.  After  the  pot  is  finished 
it  is  put  in  the  sun  to  dry  for  a  day  or  so  and  is  then  burnt  in  a  wood  fire. 

String  is  fabricated  by  the  natives  from  the  fibre  of  a  Hibiscus  shrub,  from 
plaiting  palm  leaves,  from  the  skins  of  animals,  from  bark  and  above  all  from 
the  leaves  of  the  Hyphaene  fan  palms.^ 

The  strands  of  the  fibre  of  such  shrubs  and  plants  as  are  made  into  string 
are  rolled  by  the  hand  on  the  thigh.  String  is  sometimes  made  in  this  way 
from  cotton,  especially  for  stringing  beads  or  ornaments. 

Bowstrings  are-  usually  formed  of  thin  strips  of  skin,  softened,  pulled  out, 
and  tightly  twisted.  Gut  is  sometimes  used  for  this  purpose  also.  Fishing  nets 
are  made  of  string,  usually  string  of  Hibiscus  fibre.  They  are  sometimes  of 
fine  mesh  and  are  very  strong. 

The  Rev.  D.  C.  R.  Scott  states  in  his  Dictionary,  that  the  Wambo  tribe 
of  A-nyanja,  living  to  the  south-east  of  the  Protectorate,  are  able  to  construct 
wooden  locks  and  keys.  The  keys  have  teeth  of  two  or  three  inches ;  when 
they  turn  they  move  a  wooden  bolt  into  its  place.  It  is  probable  that  these 
locks  and  keys  are  not  of  indigenous  invention  but  are  derived  from  the  teach- 
ing of  the  Portuguese. 

Skins  are  dressed  in  an  elementary  manner.  They  are  pegged  out  to  dry  ; 
most  of  the  thicker  part  of  the  hide  and  the  tendons  are  removed  by  scraping 

^  This  palm  is  singularly  useful.  From  its  leaves  are  made  mats,  baskets  and  head  coverings,  besides 
many  kinds  of  string  and  stout  rope  for  tying  fences. 


46o  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

with  a  knife,  and  the  skin  is  then  well  rubbed  with  earth  and  water  and  made 
thoroughly  soft.  Although  the  country  abounds  with  acacia  trees  which  would 
provide  bark  for  tanning  purposes,  I  have  never  heard  of  it  or  any  other  form  of 
tan  being  used  by  the  natives  for  curing  skins ;  except  on  the  Lower  Shire 
where  they  have  been  taught  by  the  Portuguese,  and  where  some  native  leather 
workers  make  excellent  boots  and  shoes.  Leather  is  not  used  for  as  many 
purposes  as  might  be  imagined.  Skins  are  dressed  in  order  to  be  worn  on  the 
body  and  are  occasionally  used  as  mats. 

Drums  are  covered  with  skins  from  which  all  the  hair  has  been  emoved. 
Sometimes  the  outside  of  the  drum  is  very  neatly  covered  with  ox-hide  which 
retains  the  hair,  and  has  been  stretched  over  the  body  of  the  drum  whilst  still 
moist. 

For  the  smaller  drums,  skin  of  the  monitor  lizards  (  Varanus),  or  of  snakes. 


^>  V  v-^";vvv*V;^^:^\,>  ;>:t^ 


WOMAN    MAKING   PO'IS 


is  used.  Often  a  piece  of  india-rubber  is  worked  into  the  leather  covering^of 
the  drum  as  it  is  supposed  to  give  greater  resonance. 

Dyes  are  obtained  from  certain  roots  and  leaves  but  are  not  much  used  In 
adorning  the  person  a  red  ointment  is  often  made  from  clay  impregnated  with 
red  oxide  of  iron,  which  is  found  in  the  river  valleys.  This  red  oxide  is  often 
mixed  with  the  clay  of  their  pottery  and  gives  it  a  beautiful  Indian  red  tint. 

Copper  and  iron  are  almost  the  only  metals  worked  in  British  Central  Africa, 
though  lead  is  said  to  be  used  by  the  Yao  for  making  small  plugs  to  go 
through  the  wing  of  the  nose  in  women.  This  they  probably  obtain  from 
leaden  bullets  or  from  lead  bought  at  the  European  stores.  I  have  not  yet 
heard  that  lead  is  found  and  smelted  in  British  Centraf  Africa.  I  doubt 
whether  copper  is  actually  obtained  by  the  natives  from  the  soil  in  British 
territory  though  it  is  certainly  worked  in  great  quantities  in  the  region  of 
Katanga  to  the  north,  and  possibly  in  some  of  the  Zambezi  countries  to  the 
west.  If  copper  is  worked  at  all  within  the  territory  under  description  it  would 
be  in  the  mountains  to  the  west  of  Lake  Nyasa.  There  are  evidences  of  its 
presence  in  the  rocks.  But  the  copper  of  Katanga  finds  its  way  down  in  large 
quantities  to  the  tribes  of  British  Central  Africa  and  many  of  them  are  very 


NATIVES   OF  BRITISH   CENTRAL   AFRICA       461 


PIPES   FOR   HEMP  AND  TOBAQCO. 

I.     Wooden  pipe  for  tobacco,  and  clay,  skin-covered  bowl  of  anotlier  tobacco  pipe. 
3.     Pipe  for  smoking  hetnp,  with  wooden  mouthpiece  and  bamboo  receptacle. 
3      Hemp  pipe  with  ebony  mouthpiece  and  handle ;   receptacle  of  eland's  horn. 


462 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


$^l|W%^i 


CENTRAL  AFRICAN   WEAPONS,   ETC. 


1.  A  Nkonde  shield. 

2.  A  bow  from  the  Marimba  district. 

3.  An  ordinary  Central  African  bow. 

4.  A  Yao  knife, 

5.  An  Achewa  axe. 

6.  Various  arrows  and  arrow-heads. 


7.  A  Yao  knife  and  scabbard  (haft  of  knife  and 

scabbard  made  of  wood). 

8.  A  common  axe  for  felling  timber. 

9.  Various  spears. 

10.     A  stabbing  spear  (assegai). 


NATIVES  OF   BRITISH   CENTRAL  AFRICA       463 

skilful  in  using  it  for  ornamental  purposes  on  the  handles  of  their  spears  and 
axes. 

Over  the  greater  part  of  Nyasaland,  however,  brass  is  of  more  common  use 
for  decorative  purposes  than  copper.  All  the  brass  in  Central  Africa  must,  of 
course,  be  procured  from  the  outer  world,  from  the  Europeans  or  Indians 
trading  on  the  coast,  as  there  is  no  race  in  Africa  which  combines  zinc  and 
copper  to  make  brass.  Nevertheless,  this  amalgam  may  be  found  in  use  among 
African  tribes  that  have  never  seen  a  white  man,  possibly  never  even  heard  of  a 
white  race.  It  is  like  tobacco  and  Indian  com :  articles  which  have  defied  all 
obstacles  and  have  swept  across  Africa  and  into  its  darkest  recesses  in  two  or 
three  centuries.  But  if  the  native  of  British  Central  Africa  cannot  make  brass 
he  can  work  it  into  all  manner  of  things  from  the  rough  form  in  which  it  is 
introduced  in  the  course  of  trade.  Brass  wire  of  various  thicknesses  is  made 
in  the  following  manner : — After  cutting  the  brass  (which  may  have  arrived  in 
thick  coils  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  or  in  rods  or  buttons  or  in  other 
forms)  into  convenient  sized  bits  the  metal  is  put  into  the  forge  and  smelted. 
When  it  is  thoroughty  fused  in  a  mass  and  has  cooled  down,  the  metal-worker 
beats  it  out  until  it  is  in  very  long  thin  strips.  One  end  of  a  strip  is  then  seized 
with  pliers  and  is  forcibly  drawn  through  a  plate  of  iron  which  is  pierced  with 
a  number  of  holes  of  graduated  sizes.  The  strip  of  brass  is  first  dragged 
through  the  largest  hole.  Then  the  end  is  beaten  and  pointed  and  dragged 
through  the  second  hole.  The  iron  plate  in  which  the  holes  are  pierced  is 
generally  fixed  in  the  fork  of  a  tree  so  that  it  may  be  pulled  against  from  the 
other  side  with  great  force  without  being  dislodged.  As  the  wire  is  pulled  it  is 
being  wound  round  a  neighbouring  branch  or  sapling.  From  time  to  time  the 
brass  is  dipped  into  oil  and  passed  through  smaller  and  smaller  holes  until  the 
wire  is  of  the  necessary  fineness.  Molten  brass  is  also  hammered  out  and 
shaped  into  bracelets  and  necklets,  or  is  made  into  rings  for  the  ears  or  fingers. 
On  the  Lower  Shire  and  Zambezi  the  brass  work  is  extraordinarily  good ;  the 
handles  of  spears  or  walking-sticks  will  be  beautifully  worked  with  a  filigree  of 
brass  wire. 

Though  gold  may  be  present  in  the  rocks  of  British  Central  Africa,  or  even 
found  alluvial  here  and  there,  it  is  not  known  to  the  natives  except  as  an 
introduced  article.  But  within  the  watershed  of  the  Zambezi  the  negroes  have 
for  untold  centuries  collected  the  alluvial  gold,  and,  under  Portuguese  tuition, 
they  have  learned  to  do  goldsmiths*  work  with  extraordinary  skill  and  delicacy. 
This  art  even  extends  to  British  territory  on  the  Lower  Shire.  Here  the  natives 
will  make  exquisitely  fine  gold  chains,  scarcely  thicker  than  a  stout  thread, 
besides  finger  rings  in  which  an  elephant's  hair  is  often  enclosed. 

Iron  ore  is  dug  and  smelted  in  a  furnace,  which  is  made  of  clay  and  is  let 
down  into  a  hole  in  the  ground.  Above  this  cavity  they  build  up  a  clay  wall 
all  round  the  edges  till  it  appears  to  form  a  huge  chimney.  A  tunnel  is  dug 
from  the  surface  of  the  ground  down  to  the  bottom  of  the  bed  where  the 
charcoal  is  laid  and  ignited.  The  iron  ore  is  put  into  the  clay  furnace.  A 
goat-skin  bellows^  with  a  stone  nozzle  is  then  plied  vigorously  till  the  charcoal 
is  in  a  white  heat.  The  clay  chimney  conserves  the  heat  and  the  iron  is 
smelted.  Then  it  is  taken  out  and  hammered.  After  that  it  is  removed 
to  the  forge  and  worked  in  a  somewhat  similar  manner  with  a  charcoal  fire 
blown  by  bellows  of  goat-skin.     The  ore  is  hammered  by  rude  iron  hammers 

*  I  have  seen  bellows  in  West  Africa  made  of  banana  leaves,  and  no  doubt  other  substances  are  used 
besides  skin. 


464 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


on  an  iron  or  stone  anvil  and  is  laid  hold  of  by  iron  pincers.  In  spite  of  the 
inefficient  implements  with  which  the  native  works  his  iron  he  achieves  extra- 
ordinary results.  When  these  people  are  instructed  by  a  European  smith,  and 
have  a  proper  forge  to  work  at,  their  skill  is  quite  remarkable.  The  chief  things 
made  of  iron  are  spears,  knives,  axes,  arrow-heads,  musical  instruments  known 
as  "Sansi,"  hoes,  tools  for  working  metal,  and  various  articles  used  as  ornaments. 
The  musical  instruments  are  the  drum ;  the  horn ;  a  viol-like  instrument 
called  the  "  Pango  "  ;^  a  "  limba  "  ;  a  "  kalirangwe,"  a  one-stringed  banjo  ;  a  kind 
of  wooden  piano ;  a  flute ;  and  an  instrument  called  in  Nyasaland  a  "  sansi,"^ 
which  I  here  illustrate. 

Drums  are  of  nine  or  ten  kinds.  One  is  often  as  much  as  five  feet  long. 
It  may  be  supported  on  a  rest  made  of  a  forked  stick,  or  a  man  may  straddle 
across  the  lower  end  of  it  with  a  leather  band  going  round  his  waist,  so  that 
he  holds  up  the  drum  while  it  is  beaten  by  his  hands.  Other  smaller 
drums  are  held  under  the  arm,  or  slung  round  the  chest.  In  some  cases  the 
drums  are  beaten  with  drum-sticks,  but  more  often  they  are  struck  with  the 
fingers.     Sometimes  they  are  constructed  in  rather  a  graceful  shape  like  a  huge 

cup  or  calyx  of  a  flower  standing 
upright.  A  drum  of  this  descrip- 
tion will  be  probably  encased  in 
hide  with  the  hair  remaining  on 
it,  and  ornamented  by  strings 
and  strips  and  loops  of  twisted 
skin.  Although  ordinarily  stand- 
ing on  its  smaller  end  this  drum 
is  generally  supported  on  a  man's 
stomach,  with  the  skin  loops 
round  his  neck  while  it  is  being 
played.  Some  of  the  little 
drums  that  are  held  under  the 
arm  are  not  more  than  eighteen 
inches  long.  They  are  often 
covered  with  Varanus  lizard 
skin.  The  parchment  of  the 
larger  drums  is  made  of  the 
skin  of  various  mammals,  ox- 
hide being  used  for  the  largest 
The  skin  is,  of  course,  entirely 
free  of  hair,  and  is  very  tightly 
stretched  over  the  mouth  of  the 
hollow  wooden  tube.  Frequently 
they  put  dabs  of  india-rubber 
in  the  centre,  as  I  have  already 
stated. 

Natives  have  a  r^ular 
"  Morse "  system  of  communication  by  drum  taps,  so  that  they  can  send 
messages  to  one  another  at  distances  of  a  mile  or  under. 

Trumpets  are  made  of  elephant  tusks  in  the  countries  to  the  north  and  west. 
I  give  here  an  illustration  of  a  Mu-lungu  of  South  Tanganyika  blowing  an 

*  These  names  are  the  Chi-nyanja  forms,  common  however  to  many  of  the  other  tongues  of  British 
Central  Mrica.  *  In  Chi-yao,  lulimba  ;  the  "  Marimba"  of  the  Congo  and  Angola. 


ANGONI  DANCER  AND  DRUM  PLAYERS 


't- 


A   MU-LUNGU  OF  SOUTH  TANGANYIKA  BLOWING   IVORY  TRUMPET  MADE  OF 
AN    elephant's  tusk 


30 


NATIVES  OF  BRITISH   CENT 


AFRICA       467 


ivory  horn.  But  with  the  increasing  value  and  scarceness  of  ivory  these 
trumpets  have  passed  out  of  use  in  Nyasaland,  where  they  chiefly  use  the 
horns  of  the  kudu,  eland,  or  reed-buck. 

The  pan^o  is  made  thus:— -A  long  broad  slip  of  wood  is  passed  through 
a  large  hollow  gourd  which  is  carefully  cut  in  half  A  bridge  is  fixed  trans- 
versely across  this  flat  piece  of  wood,  and  four  or  five  strings  are  then  strung 
over  the  bridge  and  fastened  at  either  end  with  a  piece  of  wood  which  traverses 
the  gourd  or  sounding-board.  This  instrument,  which  in  a  rude  way  answers 
to  a  fiddle,  is  played  with  a  bow,  and  that  is  generally  a  piece  of  split  and 
smoothed  bamboo  or  stout  reed.     The  bow  is  smeared  with  wax. 

The  limda  slightly  resembles  the  guitar.  It  usually  has  six  strings,  and 
is  strung  somewhat  like  a  violin  in  appearance.  The  strings  are  struck  with  the 
thumb-nails. 

The  kalirangwe  is  a  one-stringed  instrument  stretched  over  a  gourd- 
resonator.  The  string  is  twisted  fibre  dipped  into  melted  wax.  It  is  either 
played  by  twanging  it  with  the  fingers  or  with  a  reed-bow. 

The  "  wooden-piano,"  as  I  call  it  for  want  of  a  better  word,  is  rather  a  large 
instrument  and  is  generally  placed  on  the  ground,  the  person  who  wishes  to 
play  squatting  down  before  it.  It  consists  of  long  slabs  like  huge  "  keys,"  made 
of  the  wood  of  the  Mbwabwa  tree.  These  slabs  are  laid  athwart  two  long 
pieces  of  wood,  and  are  kept  in  their  places  by  wooden  pegs  on  either  side. 
When  struck  with  a  baton,  being  very  resonant,  they  give  out  musical  sounds, 
and  as  they  are  of  different  sizes  and  degrees  of  thickness  appear  to  almost 
constitute  a  gamut.  They  are  usually  five  or  six  in  number,  but  may  be  more 
numerous.  The  instrument  which  I  have  illustrated,  and  which  is  known 
in  Nyasaland  as  the  Sansiy  has  a 
sounding-board  of  some  hard  wood, 
presumably  ebony.  Slips  of  smooth 
welded  iron  with  a  slight  upward 
turn  and  flattened  out  at  the  musical 
end,  are  fastened  to  the  top  of  the 
instrument  and  are  raised  up  over 
the  bridge.  In  some  of  the  elaborate 
Sansis  (only  to  be  found  now  in  the 
more  remote  interior,  where  native 
arts  are  carefully  preserved)  there 
are  a  great  many  of  these  iron  keys 
—  perhaps  over  forty  —  placed  in 
separate  rows ;  but  ordinarily  the 
instrument  is  as  I  have  drawn  it, 
with  one  row  of  keys  graduated  in 
size  and  length.  The  Sansi  is  played 
by  the  thumbs  pressing  down  and 
releasing  the  flattened  ends  of  the 
iron  keys,  the  fingers  being  employed 
to  hold  the  sounding-board.  There 
are  many  melodies  in  the  minor  key 

(sounding  somewhat  like  a  Jews*  harp)  obtained  from  the  Sansi,  which  is  one 
of  the  most  pleasing  of  all  African  musical  instruments.  The  Sansi  is  some- 
times made  with  keys  of  bamboo  instead  of  iron.  Slips  of  bamboo  are  pared 
down  and  fastened  to  the  sounding-board  much  in  the  same  way  as  the  iron  keys. 


468  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA      . 

The  flute  is  made  of  a  hollow  reed.  This  is  an  instrument  which  is  very 
rarely  seen  nowadays  in  the  better  known  parts  of  the  country,  but  it  is  still  met 
with  in  Yao-land,  in  the  countries  to  the  west  of  Lake  Nyasa,  and  in  all  the 
regions  where  the  cheap  penny  whistles  of  the  white  trader  have  not  penetrated 
The  Rev.  D.  C.  R.  Scott  states  that  in  former  days  the  big  chiefs  of  Nyasaland 
used  to  have  bands  of  performers  on  the  flute  which  accompanied  the  armies 
to  the  battle-field  much  as  the  fifes  in  a  fife  and  drum  band. 

In  addition  to  these  regular  musical  instruments  the  native  delights  in  the 
use  of  rattles  which  are  made  of  hard  seeds  and  pieces  of  wood  and  are  hung 
round  the  ankles,  the  armpits,  or  the  waist ;  or  are  shaken  by  the  hands ;  or 
a  small  gourd  may  be  filled  with  pellets  or  seeds  and  rattled. 

Music  is  one  of  the  many  arts  in  which  the  negro  has  degenerated.  There 
is  evidence  that  before  the  coming  of  white  men  to  these  countries  bringing 
the  abominable  concertina,  panpipes,  penny  whistle,  and  harmonium,  the 
natives  played  more  musical  instruments  of  their  own  than  they  do  now, 
and  thought  much  more  of  native  music. 

The  administration  of  justice  has  already  been  touched  upon  to  some  extent 
in  the  reference  to  the  trials  by  ordeal.  The  headman  of  the  village  in  council, 
the  petty  chief  of  the  district  and  his  headman,  and  the  supreme  chief  of  the 
country  (if  there  be  one)  try  cases  according  to  their  importance,  give  decisions 
and  enforce  them.  In  the  case  of  powerful  chiefs  like  Mpezeni,  Chikusi,^ 
Chiwere,  Mombera^  of  the  Angoni,  the  Kazembe  of  Lunda,  Ketiamkulu^  of  the 
Awemba,  the  power  would  be  more  or  less  autocratic,  and  the  chief  would 
probably  give  decisions  and  execute  sentences  without  consulting  his  subrchiefs ; 
but  smaller  chiefs  do  not  rule  so  despotically  and  seldom  arrive  at  any  im- 
portant decision  without  being  in  accord  with  their  advisers. 

In  every  important  village  there  is  usually  an  open  space  with  a  shady  tree 
in  the  middle  or  some  other  shelter  from  the  sun,  and  here  the  cases  are  tried 
by  the  Village  Council  or  the  Chief  alone.  In  a  civil  case  the  plaintiff*  and 
defendant  set  forth  their  case,  each  in  his  turn,  and  do  not  interrupt  one  another 
more  than  they  would  do  in  a  civilised  Court.  Then  various  Elders,  or  men  of 
mark,2  gjyg  their  views  on  the  subject,  arguing  on  one  side  or  the  other,  and  the 
chief  pronounces  his  decision.  Sometimes  the  defeated  party  appeals  to  the 
bigger  chief  or,  if  it  is  a  serious  case,  secedes  from  the  community  sooner  than 
abide  by  the  decision,  and  runs  away  to  the  court  of  another  potentate. 
Ordinarily,  however,  the  decision  given  at  these  trials  is  accepted.  Where 
it  is  a  criminal  case  it  is  often  referred  to  the  poison  ordeal,  from  which  the 
prisoner  emerges  with  declared  innocence  after  vomiting  the  dose,  or  either  dies 
from  the  poisonous  draught  which  his  stomach  cannot  reject,  or  is  done  to  death 
by  the  onlookers  when  his  guilt  is  made  manifest  by  the  inability  to  vomit 
This  form  of  trial  is  often  resorted  to  in  serious  cases  involving  capital  punish- 
ment, as  the  chief  usually  shrinks  from  pronouncing  a  death  sentence  unless  he 
is  a  blood-thirsty  despot  of  considerable  power  who  delights  in  cruelty ;  in 
which  case  he  will  kill  or  mutilate  for  his  own  good  pleasure,  not  necessarily  for 
the  execution  of  the  judicial  sentence.^ 

Minor  ordeals  may  be  undergone,  such  as  plunging  the  hand  into  boiling 

1  Now  dead. 

'  In  the  case  of  a  woman,  she  generally  chooses  a  male  advocate  to  plead  her  cause:  usually  a  relation, 
'  In  the  Alunda  and  Awemba  countries  a  great  deal  of  mutilation  goes  on — hands  are  lopped  off,  ears 
or  noses  removed  for  trivial  offences. 


NATIVES  OF   BRITISH   CENTRAL  AFRICA       469. 

water,  to  prove  innocence  from  charges  of  stealing,  adultery,  and  so  on.  The 
native,  as  I  have  said,  shrinks  from  the  responsibility  of  pronouncing  a  death 
sentence,  but  once  such  a  decision  is  given  the  thirst  for  bloodshed  is  aroused 
and  the  execution  is  usually  a  cruel  one.  Persons  who  have  been  unsuccessful 
in  the  Muavi  ordeal,  or  who  are  otherwise  sentenced  to  death,  are  often  killed 
by  a  general  assault  of  the  surrounding  crowd  who  stab,  hack,  stamp  on,  kick, 
and  smother  the  wretched  victim,  usually  ending  by  cutting  off  the  head,  and, 
in  the  case  of  sorcerers,  burning  the  body.  In  executions  conducted  more 
soberly  by  persons  whom  the  chief  deputes  to  inflict  the  death  sentence,  the 
convict  has  his  throat  cut  or  is  stabbed  with  a  spear.  I  do  not  remember  to  have 
heard  in  this  part  of  Africa  of  any  cases  of  hanging  or  strangling.  It  is  said 
that  in  some  of  these  countries  criminals  are  crucified.  I  fancy  this  is  a  custom 
more  of  the  Zambezi  Valley  or  of  the  extreme  west  of  British  Central  Africa 
than  attributable  to  the  eastern  part  of  the  territory  which  I  am  describing.^ 

Small  cases  are  generally  dealt  with  summarily  by  the  chiefs  or  elders,  who 
usually  give  wise  decisions.  The  regular  judicial  trials  take  a  longer  time  and 
there  is  a  great  deal  of  forensic  eloquence  displayed,  not  only  by  the  parties  to 
the  case  but  by  the  bench  of  magistrates,  who,  with  the  exception  of  the  chief, 
are  mostly  partizans.  Some  of  the  speaking  is  remarkably  good — the  argument 
being  subtle,  well  sustained  and  copiously  illustrated  by  analogies  and  references 
to  other  cases.  A  speaker  will  at  times  lash  himself  into  a  simulated  fury,  but 
the  proceedings  as  a  rule  are  orderly. 

These  trials  are  called  in  Chi-nyanja  Milandu  ;  in  Chi-yao,  Magambo  ;  and 
in  Iki-nkonde,  Amasyo,  These  words  are  soon  only  too  familiar  to  the  European 
travelling  through  the  country.  Any  subject  of  dispute  is  called  a  "  Mlandu  "  ; 
and  amongst  a  litigious  people  not  standing  in  awe  of  the  European  the 
traveller  will  constantly  be  harassed  by  threats  to  bring  him  up  before  the  chief 
or  magistrate  to  cause  him  to  be  mulcted  for  some  imaginary  grievance. 

War  may  be  suddenly  waged  without  warning  and  without  reason.  Petty 
warfare  may  be  constantly  carried  on  between  the  border  villages  of  two  chiefs 
who  are  on  unfriendly  terms,  without  the  main  forces  of  the  countries  becoming 
involved.  In  such  cases  men  from  one  or  other  village  will  hide  in  the  bush 
outside  the  place  they  wish  to  annoy,  and  attack  unarmed  persons,  killing  them 
if  they  are  men,  and  carrying  them  off  if  they  are  women. 

If  one  chief  resolves  to  proceed  to  war  with  another  he  usually  sends 
a  messenger  stating  his  cause  of  complaint  and  offering  the  offending  chief 
a  bullet  (or  where  guns  are  not  used,  a  spear)  or  a  hoe.  The  chief  thus 
addressed  will  retain  the  bullet  and  send  back  the  hoe,  if  he  takes  up  the 
challenge  and  is  prepared  for  war ;  if  not  he  returns  the  bullet  and  thus  implies 
that  he  intends  to  yield  to  the  demands  made  of  him.  Or  a  defiant  potentate 
may  simply  send  to  another  ruler  bullets  or  spear-heads  as  an  insolent  provoca- 
tion. When  we  were  having  our  difficulties  with  the  slave-raiding  chiefs  on  the 
borders  of  the  Protectorate  they  were  always  sending  me  iron  bullets,  generally 
by  persons  whom  they  had  kidnapped  for  the  purpose  of  carrying  back  this 
challenge. 

When  war  is  inevitable  preparations  are  made  for  it  by  drumming,  dancing, 
beer  drinking,  high  feeding  and  the  making  of  war  medicine  which  is  usually 
hung  about  the  person  in  amulets  of  horn.  The  forces  then  advance  to  the 
attack. 

*  In  the  Niger  Delta  I  have  several  times  noticed  cases  of  men  or  women  who  were  sentenced  to  death, 
being  tied  by  stout  ropes  round  the  trunk  of  a  tree  and  left  there  to  die  of  hunger  and  thirst. 


470  BRITISH   CENTRAL  AFRICA 

If  it  be  warfare  with  the  Angoni  or  the  Awemba  against  some  weaker  tribe 
it  means  that  a  relatively  large  force  will  sally  out  to  attack  a  small  village. 
They  will  creep  up  to  it  during  the  night  and  deliver  the  attack  at  earliest 
dawn,  endeavouring  to  surmount  the  defences  of  the  place  and  enter  it  before 
the  inhabitants  are  fully  awake ;  for  even  in  times  of  warfare  all  Africans  are 
singularly  negligent  about  keeping  watch.  Having  entered  the  town  they  slay 
and  pursue  as  hard  as  they  can  to  keep  the  people  whom 
they  are  attacking  in  a  demoralised  state,  unable  to  con- 
centrate and  make  a  stand.  As  quickly  as  possible,  to 
add  to  the  panic,  they  set  fire  to  the  buildings.  Then  they 
commence  to  loot  and  capture  the  women  and  children 
whom,  together  with  the  cattle  and  ivory  and  other 
valuable  goods,  they  carry  off. 

The  Wa-yao  do  not  much  care  for  attacking  a  well- 
defended  place;  they  prefer  bush  fighting,  as  they  possess 
guns  nowadays  almost  universally,  whereas  the  Angoni 
and  Awemba  are  chiefly  armed  with  spears,  clubs  and 
assegais.   The  Yao  are  rather  cunning  in  tactics,  and  have 

a  great  idea  of  surrounding  the  enemy.    When  attacking 

ANGONI  WARRIORS  they  crawl  on  their  stomachs  or  run  with  the  body  bent, 

taking  advantage  of  cover  as  much  as  possible.  Having 
dropped  on  one  knee,  and  fired  their  guns,  they  hastily  retreat  and  reload  whilst 
another  rank  takes  their  place  in  firing.  Behind  cover  such  as  boulders  or  trees 
the  Yao  will  fight  obstinately ;  in  the  open  he  is  a  coward,  as  he  feels  himself 
justly  to  be  at  a  disadvantage.  The  Angoni  and  Awemba,  on  the  contrary,  like 
a  clear  open  space  in  which  to  fight,  and  the  former  adopt  to  some  extent  Zulu 
tactics.  They  put  several  or  many  thousand  men  in  the  field.  Their  "  impi "  has 
a  central  attacking  force,  and  two  wings  or  horns  to  endeavour  to  envelop  the 
enemy.  As  they  are  practically  without  guns  this  is  a  policy  they  can  pursue 
more  easily  than  people  like  the  Yao  who  fight  with  firearms,  and  who  might  be 
shooting  at  each  other  and  wounding  their  own  men  if  they  fought  in  a  circle. 

It  is  doubtful  whether  in  this  part  of  Africa  great  loss  of  life  occurs 
in  any  of  the  wars  amongst  the  natives.  The  party  that  has  least 
stomach  for  the  fight  is  so  good  at  running  away  and  can  so  soon  get 
out  of  range  of  the  guns,  spears,  assegais  or  arrows  of  the  attacking 
party  that  not  many  dead  bodies  are  usually  left  on  the  field  of  battle. 
As  a  rule,  the  lives  of  women  are  spared,  as  they  are  valuable  captures;* 
but  whilst  the  battle  fury  rages  I  am  afraid  little  heed  is  paid  to  the  sex 
of  the  flying  enemy,  the  conquerors  being  only  too  anxious  to  signalise 
their  victory  by  killing.  The  bodies  of  the  slain  are  invariably  mutilated. 
Heads  are  cut  off  to  be  hung  on  poles  round  the  stockade  of  the  chiefs 
town,  or  otherwise  displayed  as  relics  in  the  vicinity  of  his  dwelling. 
Bodies  of  men  are  further  mutilated,  and  the  parts  cut  off  are  also 
hung  up  for  display.  All  loot  is,  theoretically,  given  up  to  the  chief, 
who  reserves  a  proportion  for  himself  and  distributes  the  rest  amongst 
his  soldiers. 

If  it  is  a  drawn  battle,  or  the  defeat  of  the  retreating  party  has  not     * 
been  conclusive,  and  prisoners  of  importance  have  been  taken  on  both  ^' 
sides  their  lives  are  generally  spared  and  they  are  reserved  for  exchange 
and  for  use  as  hostacres.     A  defeated  chief  who  seeks  peace  from  his    head  stuck 


ON  A  POLS 


*  Either  as  wives  for  the  captor,  as  slaves,  or  as  hostages  for  peace  n^otiations.  ^tivb"war 


NATIVES  OF  BRITISH   CENTRAL  AFRICA      471 

conqueror  and  desires  to  tender  his  submission  sends  word  that  he  wishes  "  to 
catch  his  leg,"  and,  if  the  conqueror  consents,  this  ceremonial  act  of  homage  is 
performed  and  peace  is  declared.  Sometimes  tribes  that  have  been  savagely 
fighting  with  all  the  horrors  and  barbarities  of  such  warfare  a  few  days  prior 
to  the  conclusion  of  peace,  will  become  quite  sentimental,  patch  up  a  friendship, 
and  chiefs  and  headmen  will  exchange  daughters  or  sisters  as  wives,  and  their 
peoples  mingle  with  joyous  expressions  of  goodwill,  while  the  decaying  heads 
and  other  relics  of  the  mutilated  dead  still  remain  on  exhibition. 

These  negroes  have  clear  ideas  of  property.  The  waste  land  is  usually 
considered  to  belong  to  the  chief,  but  plantations  and  enclosures  belong 
personally  to  the  individual  who  originally  made  them,  or  who  has  inhabited 
them.  Private  property  also  includes  all  movables  in  the  possession  of  the 
individual  who  originally  acquired  them.  Sometimes  land  is  held  to  belong  to 
the  tribe  or  to  a  certain  family  rather  than  to  the  supreme  chief  The  natives 
have  a  clear  idea  of  the  boundaries  of  large  or  small  estates,  or  of  their  king- 
doms ;  and  in  the  case  of  the  former  they  are  marked  by  the  planting  of  certain 
trees  of  quick  growth,  while  of  course  streams  and  mountain  ranges  are  recog- 
nised as  boundaries  and  natural  limits  of  territories. 

The  laws  of  inheritance  are  by  no  means  uniform.  Amongst  the  tribes  in 
North  Nyasa  property  descends  from  a  man  who  has  died  to  the  brother  next 
to  him  in  age.  If  there  are  no  more  brothers  the  eldest  nephew  follows  the 
uncle. 

Amongst  the  Anyanja  .the  sons  usually  divide  the  father's  or  mother's 
property.  In  the  case  of  the  Yao  a  woman  usually  leaves  her  property 
amongst  her  sons  and  daughters.  In  the  case  of  a  man  the  right  to  his 
chieftainship  or  personal  property  usually  passes  to  his  eldest  sister's  son  or 
to  any  other  descendants  of  his  other  sisters  (in  order  of  seniority)  who  may 
be  living.  In  fact  amongst  the  Wa-yao  succession  is  almost  always  on  the 
female  side.  The  women  may  not,  theoretically,  govern  (though  they  often 
do  so  practically)  but  at  the  same  time  the  right  to  govern  can  only  pass 
through  the  sister  and  mother ;  thus  when  Makanjira  I.  died  the  successor  was 
not  one  of  his  sons,  but  his  nephew — son  of  one  of  his  sisters.  This  man 
again  left  the  chieftainship  to  his  sister's  son,  and  so  on. 

This  custom  also  obtains  amongst  some  of  the  North-West  Nyasa  people. 

All  Africans  are  fond  of  trade.  Commerce  has  a  great  attraction  for  them 
and  it  is  thought  to  be  a  bad  policy  on  the  part  of  a  chief  to  drive  away  trade 
by  deeds  of  injustice  or  rapine.  The  men  and  women  both  make  long  journeys 
to  sell  their  goods,  the  men  always  travelling  farther.  Salt  is  hawked  about 
the  country — also  tobacco,  smoke-dried  fish,  the  material  for  various  medicines, 
and  charms  (such  as  crocodile's  liver),  fowls,  goats  and  sheep,  cloth,  beads  and 
other  trade  goods.  Nothing,  probably,  except  ivory  or  gunpowder  is  sold  by 
weight — and  the  sale  of  these  articles  is  usually  in  foreign  hands  (Arabs. 
Europeans,  or  half-castes) — natives  usually  sell  by  measures  of  length  and 
capacity.  Salt  will  be  sold  by  the  bag  —  generally  of  regular  bulk  and 
weight — grain  or  flour  by  measure  of  capacity  which  can  be  gauged  by  the 
hand ;  cloth  is  measured  by  the  arm — the  commonest  measure  being 
the  ell,  from  the  point  of  the  elbow  to  the  end  of  the  second  finger,  or  from 
the  end  of  the  second  finger  to  the  wrist,  or  along  the  outstretched  arms  from 
finger  tip  to  finger  tip  across  the  chest  Beads  would  be  sold  by  the  bunch ; 
other  articles  that  could  not  be  sold  by  measure  would  be  valued  by  number 
and  in  some  cases  by  divisions  or  subdivisions. 


472 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


Such  is  the  Negro  of  South  Central  Africa.  I  have  endeavoured  to  place 
before  the  reader  an  accurate  summing  up  of  his  physical  and  mental  character- 
istics. He  is  a  fine  animal,  but  in  his  wild  state  exhibits  a  stunted  mind  and  a 
dull  content  with  his  surroundings  which  induces  mental  stagnation,  cessation 
of  all  upward  progress,  and  even  of  retrogression  towards  the  brute.  In  some 
respects  I  think  the  tendency  of  the  negro  for  several  centuries  past  has  been 
an  actually  retrograde  one.  As  we  come  to  read  the  unwritten  history  of 
Africa  by  researches  into  languages,  manners,  customs,  traditions,  we  seem  to 
see  a  backward  rather  than  a  forward  movement  going  on  for  some  thousand 
years  past — a  return  towards  the  savage  and  even  the  brute.  I  can  believe  it 
possible  that  had  Africa  been  more  isolated  from  contact  with  the  rest  of  the 
world,  and  cut  off  from  the  immigration  of  the  Arab  and  the  European,  the 
purely  negroid  races,  left  to  themselves,  so  far  from  advancing  towards  a  higher 
type  of  humanity,  might  have  actually  reverted  by  degrees  to  a  type  no  longer 
human,  just  as  those  great  apes  lingering  in  the  dense  forests  of  Western  Africa, 
into  which  they  are,  relatively  speaking,  quite  recent  immigrants  from  Asia  and 
Europe,  have  become  in  many  respects  degraded  types  that  have  known  better 
days  of  larger  brains  and  smaller  tusks  and  stouter  legs.  Fortunately  for  the 
black  man,  in  all  his  varieties  but  two  or  three  of  the  most  retrograde,  he  is  not 
too  far  gone  for  recovery  and  for  an  upward  turn  upon  the  evolutionary  path — 
a  turn  which,  if  resolutely  followed,  may  with  steady  strides  bring  him  upon  a 
level  at  some  future  day  with  the  white  and  yellow  species  of  man. 


*  YOUNG   AFRICA 


NATIVES  OF  BRITISH   CENTRAL  AFRICA       473 


APPENDIX 

DISEASES    OF   THE    NATIVES    OF    BRITISH    CENTRAL  AFRICA 

By    dr.    D.    KERR    CROSS,    M.B.^ 

DISEASES    OF   THE    SKIN. 
These  are  very  prevalent,  owing  to  the  want  of  cleanliness,  etc. 
I.     Eczema. — Mostly  brought  on  by  excessive  scratching. 

II.  Urticaria. — Very  common  amongst  the  natives.  It  is  like  a  nettle  rash. 
Characterized  by  great  itchiness  and  evanescence.  Due  to  errors  in  diet.  Some  people 
cannot  eat  certain  seeds. 

III.  Boils  and  Carbuncles. — Caused  by  micro-organisms.  Very  common  amongst 
the  natives.  Boils  appear  in  the  arm-pit  and  groin.  They  say  if  they  have  boils  they 
have  no  fever. 

IV.  Tropical  Sloughing  Phaged^ena. — Caused  by  micro-organisms.  The  same 
as  Mogambique  Ulcer,  etc.,  etc. — a  sloughing  ulcer,  due  to  bad  food,  etc. 

V.  Pemphigus  Contagiosus. — Caused  by  micro-organisms.  Seen  in  damp 
tropical  countries.  Begins  as  a  bulla,  or  even  a  papule,  then  becomes  a  contagious 
sore. 

Diseases  of  the  Skin  due  to  Animal  Parasites. 

Lia  (i)  on  the  body,  (2)  head,  (3)  pubis. 

Jigger  or  sand  flea. 

House-bug  {Acanthta  leciularid), 

Ifwingire, — Not  mentioned  in  any  book.  It  is  from  the  word  "  Ingira,"  to  enter.  It 
is  due  to  maggots  in  the  tissues.  Native  children  suffer  greatly.  I  have  seen  the  whole 
side  of  a  child  riddled  with  holes.     These  maggots  are  common  in  dogs  and  antelopes. 

The  Itch, — Native  name,  Pere.  Most  common.  Due  to  the  female  Acarus  Scabiei 
burrowing  in  the  skin,  and  laying  her  eggs. 

Mosquitoes. — There  are  very  many  varieties.  They  are  so  bad  during  the  wet  season 
that  the  Awanyakyusa  work  all  night  and  sleep  all  day.  Their  tissues  afford  the  second 
stage  in  the  life  history  of  the  three  low  forms  of  life  found  in  the  blood  of  man — the 
Fiiaria  sanguinis  homininis  diurnus ;  Do,  do,  nocturnus^  and  Do.  do.  perstans.  This 
leads  to 

(i)  Elephantiasis  of  Scrotum  and  leg  and  breast.  One  year  I  removed  at  the  north 
end  of  Lake  Nyasa  eleven  tumours  of  this  disease  weighing  from  52  lbs.  to  7  lbs. 
This  disease  is  very  common  amongst  the  Wanyakyusa.,  These  filarial  worms  have 
a  remarkable  periodicity. 

(2)  Orchitis, — This  is  also  very  common.  Almost  every  man  has  abnormally  large 
tesricles  due  to  this.     I  have  removed  two  weighing  3  lbs.  and  2  J  lbs.  respectively. 

(3)  Chyluria. — It  is  a  white  urine. 

(4)  Varicose  groin  glands. — The  glands  in  the  groin  are  like  walnuts  or  small  crab- 
apples. 

(5)  Lymph  scrotum. 

Ticks  are  troublesome  before  the  rains. 
Leeches, — In  marshes. 

*  For  ten  years  a  medical  missionary  in  North  Nyasaland. 


474  BRITISH   CENTRAL   AFRICA 

Diseases  of  the  Skin  due  to  Vegetable  Parasites. 
Very  prevalent.     Due  to  heat,  moisture,  habits  of  people,  racial  proclivities,  etc, 

(i)  Tropical  Ringworm, — Due  to  a  fungus.  Found  on  the  body.  It  may,  in  the 
case  of  a  native,  extend  over  the  whole  body.  Seen  on  the  body,  on  the  head,  and 
on  the  hands.     I  have  never  seen  a  case  of  Guinea-worm. 

Keloid. — Is  very  common.  The  tissues  of  the  negro  seem  to  have  a  tendency 
to  take  on  a  keloid  (or,  as  some  call  it,  a  false  keloid)  growth.  That  is  to  say, 
cicatricial  tissue  grows  large.  If  a  native  gets  a  cut,  it  becomes  like  a  tumour  or  a  new 
growth.  If  he  has  been  vaccinated,  the  mark  rises  up  like  a  two-shilling  piece.  If  he 
tatoos  himself,  the  surface  becomes  a  series  of  little  growths  protruding  above  the 
general  level  of  the  skin. 

Leucoderma  is  an  extremely  interesting  form  of  disease  that  is  found  at  the  north. 
It  consists  of  the  hands  being  white,  or  covered  with  great  patches  of  white.  The  lips 
may  be  white  also,  so  too  may  the  feet,  and  there  may  be  white  patches  on  the  breast. 
The  natives  say  it  is  due  to  their  eating  a  certain  kind  of  fish.  They  say  many  people 
can  eat  the  fish  with  impunity,  but  that  if  others  eat  they  are  seized  with  this  disease. 

Cancer  is  not  very  common.  Shortly  before  I  left  for  home  a  woman  came  into 
my  dispensary  with  cancer  of  the  left  breast.  She  had  come  from  beyond  Lake  Mweni 
— 450  miles. 

GENERAL  DISEASES. 

Rheumatic  Fever. — Is  very  common.  Many  of  their  joints  are  affected  by  this 
disease. 

Chronic  Articular  Rheumatism. 

Gonorrhceal  Arthritis. — This  is  a  form  of  Synovitis  which  occurs  as  a  sequel  to 
Gonorrhoea.     I  have  seen  it  several  times  in  Mlozi's  Village. 

Sunstroke. — Have  seen  it  in  certain  forms  amongst  natives.  Have  also  seen  it 
once  in  its  worst  form  in  one  European,  when  the  subject  was  unconscious  for  nine  days. 

SPECIFIC   DISEASES. 

Small  Pox. — A  specific,  contagious,  eruptive  fever.     Is  endemic  in  some  localities. 
Whooping  Cough. — This  is  not  very  prevalent,  but  I  have  sometimes  had  children 
with  cases  at  my  dispensary. 

Malarial  Fevers. — Most  prevalent.    All  natives  suffer.     I  divide  them  thus  : — 

I.  Forms  of  Malarial  Fever  without  marked  fever  or  Apyrexial  Forms, 
(i)  Malarial  Diarrhoea. 

(2)  Malarial  Dysentery.  Not  responsive  to  Ipecacuanha,  but  to  Quinine  and 
Perchloride  of  Iron. 

(3)  Malarial  Ulcers  may  be  in  crops  of  pimples,  or  one  sore  the  size  of  a  shilling, 
or  a  large  sore  like  the  palm  of  the  hand. 

When  the  sufferer  has  a  sore  he  has  no  fever,  and  via  versd, 
{a)  Malarial  paleness  or  cachexia. 
(5)  Malarial  Headaches,  Neuralgias,  and  other  nervous  disorders. 

II.  Intermittent  Forms,     Forms  which  relax  at  intervals, 
(i)  Intermittent,  with  Delirium. 


(*) 

Convulsions. 

(3) 

Complete  Insensibility. 

(4) 

Excessive  Shivering. 

(5) 

Biliousness. 

(6) 

Dysentery. 

NATIVES  OF  BRITISH  CENTRAL  AFRICA       475 

III.  Remittent  Forms.  These  only  relax  a  little,  but  the  temperature  never  goes 
down  to  the  normal 

(i)  Mild  Remittent.     Only  feverish  for  days. 

(2)  Bilious      „ 

(3)  Gastric      „ 

(4)  Cerebral    „ 

(5)  Algic 

(6)  Typhoid   „ 

(7)  Black  Water,  or  Bilious  Haemoglobinuric. 

Dysentery. — A  specific,  febrile  disease,  characterized  by  inflammation  of  the 
mucous  coat  and  glands  of  the  lower  bowel. 

Leprosy  is  very  common  all  over  Africa  in  both  forms,  tubercular  and  nerve.  As 
long  as  the  natives  disregard  all  forms  of  segregation  this  disease  will  continue  to 
abound. 

Syphilis. — In  all  its  stages  very  prevalent.  I  have  often  treated  from  ten  to  twenty 
cases  a  day.     Natives  call  it  the  Disease  of  the  Arabs. 

Where  Malaria  abounds  there  seems  to  be  a  remarkable  immunity  from  the  other 
fevers. 

DISEASES   OF  THE   DIGESTIVE  ORGANS. 

The  Teeth  seem  to  be  affected  by  some  chemicals  in  the  water  in  Africa. 

Parasitic  Stomatitis. — Very  common  in  unhealthy  children. 

Gastritis  is  very  common  amongst  Europeans  and  natives. 

Dyspepsia  is  very  common.  When  we  consider  the  food  of  the  natives,  the 
manner  of  its  being  cooked,  and  the  way  they  masticate  it,  we  cannot  wonder  at  there 
being  Dyspepsia. 

Pyrosis. 

Inflammation  of  the  Bowels. 

DiARRHCEA. 

Constipation. — Not  very  common  in  natives. 

Ascites. — Dropsy  of  the  Peritoneal  Cavity. 

Peritonitis. — Inflammation  of  the  Peritoneum. 

Abdominal  Tumours. — Carcinoma  of  the  Bowel  is  known.  The  spleen  is  often 
enormously  enlarged. 

The  Uterus  and  Ovaries  are  affected  somewhat 


DISEASES  OF  THE   LIVER. 
Congestion  is  common. 

Hepatic  Abscess. — Often  in  conjunction  with  Dysentery.  Common  amongst 
Europeans  and  natives. 

Hydatids  of  the  Liver. — This  organ  is  more  frequently  infested  with  Hydatids 
than  any  other  organ  of  the  body.  The  cyst  may  be  the  size  of  a  cherry,  or  that  of 
a  boy's  head. 

Jaundice. — A  symptom  more  than  a  disease. 


476  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 

INTESTINAL  WORMS. 

Tape  Worms  are  very  common.     At  least  three  diflferent  varieties  are  found. 

Round  Worms. — There  are  a  number  of  varieties.  At  least  one  Liver  Parasite  is 
common — the  Bilhartzia  Hamatrobia^  which  is  the  cause  of  what  is  known  as  the 
Bilhartzia  disease.  Endemic  haematuria  is  somewhat  common  amongst  the  north  end 
people,  and  due  to  the  presence  of  this  worm. 

FiLARiA  SANGUINIS  HOMiNis  is  a  nematode  worm,  and  is  the  cause  of  much  trouble, 
as  is  indicated  under  "  Mosquito." 

DISEASES  OF  THE  RESPIRATORY  SYSTEM. 

Acute  Laryngitis. 

Bronchitis  is  not  very  common  either  in  its  acute  or  chronic  forms.  The  people 
live  too  much  in  the  open  air  for  this  disease  to  find  a  nidus. 

Acute  Pneumonia  is-  common  during  the  cold  season,  or  at  the  beginning  of  the 
rains.     I  had  a  few  cases  every  year. 

Pulmonary  Tubercular  Phthisis. — In  all  my  experience  I  have  only  had  one 
genuine  case.  Malarial  fever  seems  to  immunise  the  country  from  the  tubercular 
bacillus. 

Acute  Pleurisy. 

Chronic  Pleurisy. 

Hydro-  and  Pneumo-Thorax. 

DISEASES  OF  THE  VASCULAR  SYSTEM. 

Valvular  Diseases  are  not  very  common. 

Dilatation. 

Degeneration  of  the  Muscular  Walls. 

Aneurism. 

Exophthalmic  Goitre. 

ANiCMiA,  or  deficiency  of  blood,  is  rather  common. 

Chlorosis  is  common  in  many  girls. 

DISEASES  OF  THE  SPLEEN. 

Hypertrophy  of  the  Spleen  is  very  common. 

Goitre  or  enlargement  of  the  thyroid  gland.  I  have  seen  this  very  often  in  Mlozi's 
village.     I  never  saw  any  of  the  north  end  natives  suffering  from  it. 

DISEASES   OF  THE   KIDNEYS. 
Acute  Tubal  Nephritis. 
Chronic  Tubal  Nephritis. 
Renal  Calculus. 

Uremia. — Nervous  symptoms  supervening  on  suppression  of  the  Urine. 
HiEMATURiA. — Blood  in  the  Urine. 
Paroxysmal  H^emoglobinuria. 


NATIVES  OF  BRITISH  CENTRAL  AFRICA      477 

Chyluria. — I  have  seen  some  cases  of  this  disease  among  the  natives.  It  is  white 
urine,  and  is  due  to  chyle  or  lymph  being  present.  It  is  caused  by  obstruction 
and  rupture  of  the  lymphatics;  also  by  the  presence  of  the  nematoid  worm,  Filaria 
sanguinis  hominis.  To  me  this  is  a  most  wonderful  worm.  The  embryo  is  sucked 
from  the  blood  of  man  by  a  female  mosquito,  and  enters  the  stomach  of  the  same. 
There  it  develops  an  alimentary  canal,  and  an  instrument  for  boring.  By-and-bye 
the  mosquito  dies,  and  falls  on  water,  but  the  parasite  is  not  dead.  It  sleeps  till  it 
reaches  a  human  stomach  by  the  medium  of  drinking  water.  From  there  it  travels 
through  the  tissues  to  the  lymph  vessels  of  the  human  being,  where  it  becomes 
sexually  mature,  and  breeds.  It  lies  in  one  of  the  lymph  vessels,  and  may  measure 
from  3  inches  to  6  inches  long.  The  embryos  of  this  worm  are  only  seen  active  in  the 
blood  at  night,  and  may  be  present  in  the  human  being  to  the  extent  of  millions. 
There  is  another  form  of  embryo  that  is  only  seen  active  by  day,  and  a  third  is  seen 
active  at  all  hours  of  the  day  or  night. 

DISEASES   OF  THE  NERVOUS   SYSTEM. 

Simple  Meningitis  may  be  seen. 

Apoplexy  is  not  very  common. 

Epilepsy. — Falling  sickness  is  very  common,  strange  to  say.  Very  often  it  is  seen 
in  children  and  young  people. 

Lesions  of  any  of  the  Cranial  Nerves  may  be  seen. 

Spinal  Paralysis  is  sometimes  met  with. 

Locomotor  Ataxia  is  seen. 

Lateral  Sclerosis. 

Neuralgia. 

Sciatica. 

Headache. 

Megrim. 

Convulsions. 

Tetanus. — I  have  seen  this  in  three  different  surgical  cases. 

Insanity. — I  have  seen  several  varieties.  One  form  has  come  frequently  under  my 
observation  in  which  a  native  during  the  course  of  a  disease,  such  as  small  pox,  or  after 
some  exposure  to  the  sun,  will  suddenly  become  mad  and  rush  to  the  woods  where  he 
behaves  like  a  madman — shouting,  rushing  about,  eating  leaves.  His  comrades  follow 
him  in  numbers  without  the  slightest  fear,  saying  he  has  "  kifunter  I  have  seen  such 
men  brought  back  to  the  village,  limbs  tied,  rolling  on  the  ground  and  eating  the  dust. 
In  a  few  days  the  fit  of  insanity  disappears.  The  cases  are  peculiarly  amenable  to  drugs 
of  the  nature  of  Bromide  of  Potassium. 

I  have  more  than  once  been  struck  by  the  wisdom  the  natives  manifested  in  dealing 
with  fractures  of  the  bones.  They  dealt  with  them  in  a  most  rational  manner,  by 
putting  on  rude  splints  and  setting  the  bones  in  a  natural  position.  Very  often,  however, 
the  bones  rode  over  one  another;  but  still,  they  had  grasped  the  principle.  Then, 
again,  in  their  treatment  of  a  deep-set  inflammation  they  show  a  great  deal  of  wisdom. 
They  may  scarify  the  surface  which  in  principle  we  know  to  be  good.  They  do  it  in  a 
rude  way,  but  they  really  draw  the  blood  from  the  deeper  organ  to  the  surface.  They 
do  the  same  in  their  dry-cupping.  They  dry-cup  by  means  of  a  horn,  first  scarifying  the 
surface,  and  then  putting  a  piece  of  flaming  moss  inside  and  suddenly  applying  the  cup. 
This  is  in  principle  what  we  do  in  dry-cupping.  The  north  end  natives,  too,  have,  it 
seems  to  me,  a  wonderful  knowledge  of  roots  and  leaves  and  medicinal  plants.  This 
I  feel  sure  would  reward  anyone  who  had  time  to  devote  himself  to  the  subject. 


CHAPTER    XL 
LANGUAGES 

THE  native  languages  of  British  Central  Africa  belong  exclusively  to  the 
great  Bantu  group  of  Negro  tongues.  Arabic^  used  to  be  spoken  by  the 
Arabs  and  coastmen  temporarily  settled  in  the  South  Tanganyika,  North 
Nyasa,  and  Marimba  districts,  but  is  probably  now  replaced  by  Ki-swahili — the 
language  of  Zanzibar  and  the  "  Hindustani,"  or  lingua  Franca  of  East-Central 
Africa  between  the  White  Nile  and  the  Zambezi.  Portuguese  is  slightly  known 
by  the  people  on  the  Lower  Shire ;  English  is  rapidly  becoming  familiar  to  all 
the  tribes  of  Nyasaland,  South  Tanganyika,  and  Mweru.  In  time  it  will  be  the 
common  language  spoken  by  all  sorts  and  conditions  of  men  in  South-Central 
Africa  for  purposes  of  intercommunication  in  matters  of  Government,  Religion, 
Commerce,  Mechanics,  Arts  and  Sciences.  But  in  some  respects  it  will  be 
run  hard  for  supremacy  by  Ki-swahili,*  the  language  of  Zanzibar. 

This  remarkable  tongue  offers  a  parallel  to  English,  with  its  absorption  of 
Latin ;  and  Hindustani,  with  its  Hindi  basis  and  heterogeneous  additions  of 
Arabic,  Turkish,  and  Persian  words.  Its  main  stock  of  words  and  its  grammar 
are  purely  Bantu ;  but  about  twenty-five  per  cent,  of  its  vocabulary  is  corrupt 
Arabic.  Arab  influence,  however,  has  simplified  the  grammar  and  the  numerals, 
and  has  provided  Ki-swahili  with  a  copious,  apt  diction  capable  of  expressing 
almost  any  ideas  with  exactitude  and  precision.  When  new  words  for  new 
concepts  are  wanted  they  have  only  to  be  looked  out  in  the  Arabic  dictionary 
and  pronounced  in  an  easier  African  manner  to  at  once  become  incorporated  in 
"the  Queen's  Swahili."  Say  that  you  want  a  word  to  express  "Witness; 
witnesses  in  a  court  of  law  " — you  look  out  the  word  in  an  Arabic  dictionary — 
Shahtdy  turn  it  into  Swahili  pronunciation — Shahidi^  add  on  the  Ma-  prefix 
and  pluralise  it  as  Mashahidi — "  witnesses."  "  Call  your  witnesses — Ita 
mashahidi  yako'* 

The  pronunciation  of  Arabic  words  is  facilitated — "  Swahili-ised  " — thus : 
Sanduq  (box,  chest)  becomes  Sanduku,  the  difficult  pronunciation  of  the  S  ((^) 
and  the  q  (^)  being  ignored.^  'Urn  (science)  becomes  Elimu;  !^^/ (intelligence) 
changes  in  the  soft  African  pronunciation  into  Akilu  The  following  sentence 
will  give  some  fair  idea  of  the  proportion  of  Arabic  words  in  Ki-swahili,  and 
the  kind  of  concepts  for  which  they  are  used  (I  place  the  words  derived  from 
Arabic  in  italics): — Si-nge-/^«^«/«  kuja  kuku-ona,  Bwana\^  lakini  ni-me-pata 

*  The  Arabic  spoken  was  the  corrupt  jargon  of  the  Hadhramaut  and  'Oman. 

*  JCi'  is  the  prefix  denoting  "  kind  of,  sort  of" — and  is  frequently,  but  not  always,  applied  to  languages. 
Swahili  is  derived  from  the  Arabic  Sawahel — "the  coastlands" — the  people  of  the  coast. 

'  Though  in  writing  Swahili  in  the  Arabic  character  the  original  Arab  spelling  of  the  transmuted 
words  is  retained. 

*  A  corruption  of  the  Arabic  Abuna^  *'  our  fether." 

478 


LANGUAGES  479 

jeraha  kwa  ku-pigwa  risasi  na  Askari  yako :  natafuta  hakki  yako.  (I  should 
not  dare  to  come  and  see  you,  Master^  were  it  not  that  (buf)  I  have  got  a 
wound  through  being  struck  with  a  bullet  (shot)  by  your  soldier :  I  seek  your 
justice) 

But  the  basis  of  Ki-swahili  is  thoroughly  "  Bantu,"  and  Bantu  of  a  fairly  old 
and  uncorrupted  type.  Consequently  it  is  singularly  well  adapted  for  a 
universal  language  in  East-Central  Africa,  as  so  much  of  its  vocabulary  can 
be  understood  by  the  Yao,  the  A-nyanja,  the  Makua,  the  Ba-bisa,  the 
Awemba,  the  Wa-nyamwezi,  the  Ba-ganda,  and  the  tribes  of  all  the  coast 
regions  of  East  Africa.  It  is  impossible  for  the  traveller  to  learn  all  the  many 
different  dialects  of  British  Central  Africa ;  equally  impossible  to  expect  that 
all  the  natives  for  a  hundred  years  to  come  shall  learn  to  speak  English. 
Therefore  Ki-swahili — like  Hindustani  in  India — presents  itself  as  a  solvent 
of  the  difficulty.  Anyone  speaking  the  language  of  Zanzibar  well  and  fluently^ 
cannot  fail  to  make  himself  understood  wherever  he  may  go  from  the  Zambezi 
to  the  White  Nile. 

The  languages  of  the  country  I  am  describing  are  allied  to  Kiswahili  as 
Bengali,  Hindi,  Panjabi,  Sindi,  Mahratti,  Gujrati,  are  allied  to  Hindustani :  that 
is  to  say,  they  are  pure  Bantu  (with,  it  may  be,  some  deep-disguised  infusion 
from  the  older  stock  of  languages  ?  Bushman  ?  Hottentot  which  they  displaced 
one  to  two  thousand  years  ago),  just  as  the  Indian  dialects  above  named  are 
pure  Aryan  (save  for  some  prehistoric  absorption  of  Dravidian  elements). 
Before  proceeding  to  describe  the  principal  languages  here  illustrated  I 
may  be  allowed,  perhaps,  to  say  a  few  words  on  the  Bantu  family  of  African 
tongues. 

Some  three  thousand  years  ago  we  may  imagine  the  southern  half  of  Africa* 
but  sparsely  peopled.  In  the  great  Congo  forests  a  few  pigmies  wandered ; 
Eastern,  South-Central,  and  Southern  Africa  were  given  up  to  Hottentot  and 
Bushman  races;  the  Nilotic  negroes,  perhaps,  extended  in  their  range  to  the 
latitude  of  Zanzibar,  and  the  West  African  negro  crdpt  down  the  west  coast  as 
far  as  Angola.  Then  somewhere  in  the  very  heart  of  Africa — north  of  the 
Congo  Basin,  west  of  the  Nile  Valley,  south  of  the  Shari  River,  and  east. of  the 
Benue — a  small  tribe  of  negroes  arose  speaking  a  language  remarkable  for  its 
development  of  governing  prefixes,  and  for  the  concord  system  by  which  the 
pronominal  prefix  which  begins  the  noun  prefaces  or  is  inserted  into  all  the 
adjectives,  pronouns,  and  verbs  in  the  sentence  which  refer  to  that  noun.  The 
"  Bantu  "'  mother-tongue  spoken  by  this  tribe  was  a  sister  language  to  other 
Central  and  West  African  forms  of  speech — related  to  the  stock  from  which  the 
Sierra  Leone,  Gold  Coast,  Dahome,  Lower  Niger,  Benue,  Niger  Delta'*  languages 
sprang.  In  a  more  distant  way  the  archaic  Bantu  tongue  must  have  had 
relationships  with  the  Ful  or  "  Fulfulde  "  language  (of  the  so-called  "  Fulahs  "), 
with  the  Tumale  speech  of  Northern  Darfur ;  even  with  the  Hausa.* 

^  Any  diligent  person  can  master  Ki-swahili  in  three  months*  study.  Too  often,  however,  this 
hannonious,  apt,  and  concise  language  is  misrepresented  in  Central  Africa  by  a  vile  jargon  picked  up 
in  the  bazaars  of  Zanzibar — the  **  Mimi  kwenda  huku,  we  we  kuja  hapa "  style. 

*  South  of  the  northern  parts  of  the  Congo  Basin,  the  Victoria  Nyanza  and  Zanzibar. 

'  Bantu  is  a  representative  name  applied  to  this  great  group  of  languages  by  Dr.  Bleek,  the  first  philo- 
logist to  study  them.  It  means  literally  ** people" — Ba-ntti  {Mu-titu=9.  person)  and  is  illustrative  of 
the  prefix  system. 

*  With  the  exception  of  the  Bonny  and  Benin  languages.    These  are  quite  isolated  and  highly  peculiar. 

*  The  most  remarkable  Hausa  speech  is  a  connecting  link  between  the  Hamitic  and  the  Negro 
language  groups.  Even  at  the  present  day  there  are  many  links  existing  which  show  the  original  con- 
nection— both  physical  and  linguistic — between  the  Arab  and  the  Negro. 


480 


BRITISH   CENTRAL   AFRICA 


The  tribe  speaking  this  elaborately  constructed  prefix- language — the  Bantu 
mother-tongue — must  have  waxed  very  numerous  and  powerful,  have  enjoyed 
a  certain  amount  of  culture  remotely  derived  from  Egypt,  and  have  possessed 
already  such  domestic  animals  as  the  ox,  goat,  dog,  and  fowl.  Then — and  not 
longer  ago  than  two  thousand  years  ^ — the  original  Bantu  people  overflowed 


MAP  SHOWING  THE  LINES  OF  MIGRATION  OF  THE  BANTU  TRIBES  IN  THEIR  INVASION 
OF  SOUTHERN  AFRICA  :  the  dotted  lines  show  migration-routes  of  Semi-Bantu  tribes ;  the  shaded 
circle  indicates  site  where  Bantu  languages  were  first  developed. 

^  I  calculate  this  date  as  follows : — Almost  all  the  Bantu  peoples  have  a  common  word  root  expressing 
the  domestic  fowl :  Kuku.  (Nkuku,  Ngoko,  Nchuchu,  Nsusu,  Nguku,  Nku.)  Now  the  domestic  fowl 
reached  Africa  first  through  Egypt  at  the  time  of  the  Persian  occupation— not  before  400  B.C.  To  possess 
a  name  for  this  bird  common  to  Zululand,  the  extreme  Upper  Congo,  the  Cameroons,  and  the  Victoria 
Nyanza,  it  is  clear  that  the  Bantu  knew  the  fowl  prior  to  their  dispersal.  As  they  could  not  have  received 
it  from  Egypt  much  more  than  two  thousand  years  ago,  this  limits  the  period  which  has  elapsed  since  they 
started  from  their  first  home  to  occupy  half  Africa.  I  have  been  working  for  a  good  many  years  at  a 
**  Comparative  Grammar  of  the  Bantu  languages,"  which  I  hope  to  publish  before  long.  In  this  I  adduce 
many  other  reasons  for  fixing  the  date  of  the  Bantu  exodus. 


LANGUAGES  481 

# 

the  country  to  the  south  of  their  first  area  of  development,  and  rapidly  spread 
over  all  the  southern  half  of  Africa  except  the  extreme  south-western  corner 
(Cape  Colony  and  Namakwaland).  The  antecedent  populations  they  absorbed 
or  exterminated. 

Henceforth,  with  the  exception  of  the  Hottentot-Bushman,  there  has  been 
but  one  linguistic  family  over  this  huge  area  of  Africa  which  lies  to  the  south 
of  a  line  cutting  the  West  Coast  of  Africa  between  the  Cameroons  and  the 
Cross  River,  skirting  the  northern  limits  of  the  Congo  Basin,  traversing  the 
Albert  Nyanza,  passing  round  to  the  north  of  Bu-nyoro,  Bu-ganda,  and  Bu-soga, 
reaching  the  Victoria  Nyanza  at  its  north-eastern  extremity,  leaving  out  its  east 
coast,  striking  eastwards  again  from  its  south-easternmost  gulf,  and  eventually 
attaining  the  Indian  Ocean  at  Lamu,  following  a  very  irregular  course,  and 
including  Mount  Kilimanjaro  within  its  limits,  but  leaving  several  detached 
islands  of  Bantu-speaking  areas  as  enclaves  in  the  Masai  and  Galla  countries 
to  the  north-east. 

The  lines  of  dispersal  of  the  Bantu  negroes  appear  to  have  been  something 
like  the  routes  given  in  the  accompanying  diagram. 

Of  course  the  original  home  of  the  Bantu  is  now  occupied  by  other 
tribes  of  negroes,  not  Bantu  though,  perhaps,  speaking  languages,  distantly 
akin  to  the  original  Bantu  mother-tongue.  Probably  the  original  cause 
of  the  Bantu  dispersal  was  the  driving  away  of  the  tribe  from  their  first 
home  by  alien  invaders.  Checked  for  a  time  by  the  dense  Congo  forests 
on  the  south,  the  movement  of  the  Bantu  was  at  first  in  an  easterly 
direction.  Then  reaching  the  Albert  Nyanza  the  main  body  took  a  south- 
ward direction,  and  persisted  in  this  while  sending  off  important  branches 
to  the  west  and  east. 

To  some  extent  the  most  archaic  Bantu  tongues  existing  are  still  found 
along  this  main  line  of  route — Ki-rega,  Ki-guha,  Ki-emba,^  Ci-bisa,  Zulu 
(Isi-zulu)  — though  a  primitive  type  of  Bantu  may  be  found  stranded  here 
and  there  off  the  main  route — such  as  Ki-makonde  on  the  east  coast,  near 
the  mouth  of  the  Ruvuma  River,  the  Nkonde  dialects  of  the  north  end  of 
Lake  Nyasa,  and  Oci-herero  of  Damaraland. 

The  following  propositions  may  be  laid  down  to  define  the  peculiar 
features  of  the  Bantu  languages  : — 

1.  They  are  agglutinative  in  their  construction^  their  syntax  being  formed  by 

adding  prefixes  and  suffixes  to  the  root,  but  no  infixes  (that  is  to  say,  no 
syllable  incorporated  into  the  root  word). 

2.  The  root  is  unchanging  to  all  intents  and  purposes^  though  its  first  or 

last  letter  (vowel  or  penultimate  consonant)  may  be  modified  in  pro- 
nunciation by  the  preceding  letter  of  the  prefix  or  succeeding  letter  of 
the  suffix.  With  one  exception  there  is  no  inflection:  that  exception 
(scarcely  in  origin  a  true  one)  is  in  the  case  of  the  preterite  tense  of 
the  verb  in  certain  languages  where  the  root  changes  in  its  termination 
probably  by  the  absorption  of  a  suffix. 

3.  No  two  consonants  come  together  without  an  intervening  vowel  (except 

where  one  of  them  is  a  nasal,  a  labial,  or  a  semi-vowel) :  no  consonant 
is  doubled  (except  by  the  accidental  juxtaposition  of  two  m*s  or  n's, 
one  of  which  represents  an  abbreviated  particle) :  no  word  ever  ends 
in  a  consonant  except  in  rare  instances  where  the  termination  through 
contraction  and  the  dropping  of  a  vowel  becomes  a  nasal  sound. 

^  Probably  the  most  primitive  of  all,  as  spoken  in  South-West  Tanganyika, 
31 


482  BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


S 


4.  Substantives  are  divided  into  many  classes  or  genders  indicated  by  the 
pronominal  particle  prefixed  to  the  root.  Some  of  these  prefixes  are  used 
in  a  plural  sense,  others  in  the  singular.  No  singular  prefix  can  be 
used  as  a  plural,  nor  can  a  plural  prefix  be  employed  in  the  singular 
number.  There  is  a  certain  degree  of  correspondence  between  the  singular 
and  plural  prefixes,  thus.  No.  2  prefix  invariably  serves  as  plural  to  No,  i ; 
No,  8  (plural)  corresponds  to  No,  7  (singular),  but  this  cannot  be  depended 
on  as  a  rule.  The  full  number  of  the  prefixes  is  sixteen}  The  pronominal 
particle  or  prefix  of  the  noun  is  attached  to  the  adjectives,  pronouns,  and 
verbs  in  the  sentence  which  are  connected  with  that  noun,  and  though  in 
course  of  time  these  particles  may  differ  in  form  from  the  noun-prefix, 
they  were  formerly  identical  in  origin,  (This  system  is  the  "  Concord  " 
of  Dr.  Bleek).  The  pronominal  particles  whether  in  the  nominative  or 
accusative  case  must  always  precede  the  verbal  root,  though  they  often 
follow  the  auxiliary  particles  used  in  conjugating  the  verbs,  (An 
apparent  but  not  a  real  exception  to  this  rule  is  in  the  second  person 
plural  of  the  imperative  mood  where  an  abreviated  form  of  the  pronoun 
is  affixed  to  the  verb^  and  other  phases  of  the  verb  are  occasionally 
emphasised  by  the  repetition  of  the  governing  pronoun  at  the  end.) 

5.  The  verbal-root  may  modify  its  termination  by  a  change  of  the  last  vowel 

or  by  suffixing  certain  particles  ;  or  it  may  even  change  its  radical  vowel 
either  to  form  a  tense  or  to  alter  the  original  meaning  of  the  simple  stem, 

6.  The  root  of  the  verb  is  the  second  person  singular  of  the  imperative, 

7.  No  sexual  gender  is  recognised. 

The  sixteen  original  prefixes  of  the  Bantu  languages  are  given  below.  I 
state  them  in  the  most  archaic  forms  to  be  found  in  living  languages ;  but  there 
are  evidences  to  show  that  some  of  these  prefixes  are  not  now  found  in  their 
oldest  types,  and  these  latter,  obtained  by  deduction  from  the  other  forms  of 
the  particle  used  in  the  syntax,  are  given  in  brackets. 

BANTU    PREFIXES. 
Singular.  Plural. 

Class    I     Mu-(Ngu-)  Class   2     Ba- 

„       3     Mu.(Ngu-)  „      4     Mi-(Ngi.) 

„       5     Di-(Ndi-)  „      6     Ma.(Nga-) 

„       7     Ki-(Nki-?)  „      8     Bi- 

„       9     N  or  Ni  M     10     Ti-,  Ti-n-,  or  bi-,^  bi-n-, 

or  Zi-,  Zi-n- 
„     II     Lu-(Ndu?)  „     12     Tu    (often    diminutive 

„     13     Ka  (usually  a  diminutive).  in  sense). 

„  14  Bu-  (sometimes  used  in  a  plural  sense;  generally  em- 
ployed to  indicate  abstract  nouns).* 
„  15  Ku-  (identical  with  preposition  **  to,"  used  as  an  infinitive 
with  verbs  but  also  with  certain  old  nouns  indicating 
functions  of  the  body  primarily). 
„  16  Pa-  (locative:  applied  to  nouns  and  other  forms  of 
speech  to  indicate  "place"  or  position.  Identical 
with  adverb  "  here,"  as  ku-  is  with  "  there.") 

^  Possibly  seventeen.  ^  //<z  =  call!  //ani  =  call  ye  !  ifi  =  ye. 

•^  English  Th-  in  **  think."  ^  As  Mu-ntu  =  a  man  ;  Bu-ntu=- humanity. 


LANGUAGES  483 

To  these  sixteen  prefixes  should  perhaps  be  added  the  preposition  mu-  "  in," 
"  into,"  which  in  some  languages  is  used  as  a  prefix  or  pronominal  particle, 
as  in   the  Svvahili  phrase  "  M'nyumba-ni  mw-ace"  =  In  his  house — where  the 

In  house       in      it  (in)    his 

preposition  M'  (abbreviation  for  Mu-)  has  the  particle  Mw  (Mu)  agreeing  with 
it  and  placed  before  the  pronoun  -ace. 

Also  the  prefix  in  the  singular  number  having  a  diminutive  sense,  which  is 
found  in  some  of  the  N orth- Western  ^  Bantu  tongues — Fi-  or  Vi-.  This  is 
possibly  an  additional  prefix  which  has  come  into  independent  being  in  that 
rather  divergent  group.  It  cannot  be  traced  to  derivation  from  any  of  the 
other  prefixes  among  the  sixteen.  It  is  always  used  in  the  singular,  and  its 
corresponding  plural  prefix  is  the  twelfth  (Tu-). 

The  concord  may  be  explained  thus : — 

Let  us  for  a  moment  reconstruct  the  original  Bantu  mother-tongue  (as 
attempts  are  sometimes  made  to  deduce  the  ancient  Aryan  from  the  most 
archaic  of  its  daughters)  and  propound  sentences  to  illustrate  the  repetition 
of  pronominal  particles  known  as  the  "  concord." 

OLD  BANTU : 
Abao        Bantw        bah\         badaota;  tu^^oga. 

They  they  person      they  bad        they  they-who  kill ;        we  them  fear. 

('*  They  are  bad  men  who  kill ;  we  fear  them.") 
Now  let  us  render  this  into  a  modern  dialect,  Luganda  of  Buganda : 
Bo  Bantu  bahi  babotdL\  tu^atia. 

They  they  person         they  bad        they  they-who  kill ;    we  them  fear. 


Or,  again — 


OLD   BANTU ; 


iV^-ti  ngunguo  ngugv^dL.  \  ku«^mbona  ? 

This    tree  this    ihis-one  this    falk ;  thou    this    seest? 

("  The  tree  falls  ;  doest  thou  see  it  ?  ") 

Rendered  into  Kiguha  of  Tanganyika,  this  would  be : 

Mut\  guno  gugwa\  u^mona? 

It    tree  thb  (one)  it     falls;  thou  it  seest? 

The  prefixes  and  their  once  identical  particles  have  varied  greatly  in  form 
from  the  aboriginal  syllables  as  the  various  Bantu  dialects  became  more  and 
more  corrupt.  The  eighth  prefix,  Bi-,  becomes  Vi-,  Pi-,  Fi-,  Fy-,  Si-,^  I-,  By-,  Bz-, 
Py-,  Ps-,  Zi-.  Further  confusion  is  caused  by  the  retention  and  fusion  in  the 
prefix  of  the  preceding  vowel  which  marked  the  full  definite  form  when  the 
prefix  was  used  as  a  definite  article  or  demonstrative  pronoun.  The  definite 
forms  of  the  prefixes  were  these:— -i.  Umu  (Uftgu,  Uftu),  2.  Aba,  3.  Umu 
(Uflgu,  Ufiu),  4.  Imi  (Iftgi,  Ifii),  5.  Idi  (Indi),  6.  Ama  (Afiga,  Afta),  7.  Iki,  8,  Ibi, 
9.  In-,  ID.  Ibin-  or  Izin,  11.  Ulu,  12.  Utu,  13.  Aka,  14.  Ubu,  15.  Uku,  16.  Apa 
Umu  contracts  into  Um',  M',  U' ;  Aba  into  Awa,  A* ;  Idi  into  Edi,  Ei,  E',  P, 
and  so  on. 

The  Bantu  dialects  illustrated  in  this  volume  by  vocabularies  fall  into 
groups  more  or  less  coincident  with  the  tribal  or  racial  congeries  of  peoples 
enumerated  at  the  beginning  of  the  chapter  on  Anthropology ;  but  in  drawing 

*  Perhaps  also  in  the  E<astern  Congo  basin.     In  the  form  of  I-  it  is  seemingly  present  in  Manyema. 
'  Shi-,  the  F  palatalised. 


484  BRITISH   CENTRAL   AFRICA 

up  vocabularies  I  have  passed  beyond  the  political  limits  of  British  Central 
Africa  and  have,  for  the  sake  of  comparison,  included  tongues  spoken  in 
other  and  adjoining  spheres. 

The  Manyema  language  which  comes  first  on  my  list  is  illustrated  by  a 
vocabulary  supplied  to  me  by  Manyema  slaves  in  the  Arab  settlements  on  the 
south  coast  of  Tanganyika.  Manyema  is  a  remarkable  tongue.  Its  locale  is  the 
country  west  of  Tanganyika,  on  the  Congo  versant,  and  its  nearest  allies  are  the 
languages  spoken  on  the  Upper  Congo  below  (/>.,  north  of)  the  Stanley  Falls, 
on  the  Aruwimi  River,  and  south  of  the  Central  Congo  (Bololo).  Manyema 
is  an  extremely  corrupted  and  worn-down  language  as  will  be  seen  by  my 
vocabulary.  Some  of  the  sixteen  Bantu  prefixes  are  apparently  dropped. 
The  few  that  remain  are  abbreviated  almost  beyond  recognition. 

Ki-guha  is  a  most  interesting  form  of  Bantu  speech.  It  is  spoken  on  the  west 
and  north-west  coast  of  Tanganyika  and  is  allied  to  Ki-rega  (a  language  spoken 
in  the  countries  on  the  Congo  Watershed,  somewhere  to  the  soutli  of  the 
Albert  Nyanza),  and  to  Lu-nyoro  and  Lu-ganda. 

Ki-wemba  or  Ki-emba  is  a  tongue  of  very  archaic  features,  especially  that 
dialect  which  is  spoken  in  Itawa,  on  the  south-west  coast  of  Tanganyika. 
The  Ki-wemba  of  the  Awemba  country  further  south  does  not  retain  so 
many  interesting  primitive  features.  Ki-wemba  offers  points  of  resemblance 
to  the  remarkable  Nkonde  dialects  on  the  north  and  north-west  of  Lake 
Nyasa  and  on  a  portion  of  the  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau.  Their  influence 
extends  as  far  to  the  N.E.  as  the  south  shore  of  Lake  Rukwa,  where  the  Wungu 
language  obviously  belongs  to  the  Nkonde  group.  Perhaps  Ki-bisa  and  other 
languages  further  to  the  west  are  also  allied.  All  these  tongues  are  remarkable 
for  retaining  the  full  form  of  the  prefixes  when  the  latter  are  used  as  definite 
articles — Uinuntu,  a  man  ;  Abantu  or  Awantu,  men,  and  so  on.  The  Ki-lungu 
and  Ki-mambwe  (with  the  allied  Ki-fipa)  languages  of  South  and  South-East 
Tanganyika  and  the  Nyasa-Tanganyika  plateau  are  disappointing  in  that  they 
present  few,  if  any,  archaic  features ;  though  Ki-lungu  is  less  altered  than 
Ki-mambwe  and  may  be  connected  with  the  Ki-emba  stock. 

The  Ki-kese  of  North-East  Nyasa  is  interesting  as  offering  points  of 
resemblance  to  the  Yao  as  well  as  to  the  Nkonde  dialects. 

The  Bisa  language  while  belonging  to  the  same  stem  as  the  Ki-wemba 
evidently  represents  somewhat  closely  the  original  stock  from  which  the 
Tumbuka  group  (Ci-tumbuka,  Ci-henga,  Ci-tonga,  etc.)  and  the  Ci-senga  and 
Ci-nyanja  dialects  were  derived.  The  Tumbuka  and  Tonga  tongues  exhibit 
a  phonetic  feature  almost  unheard  of  elsewhere  within  the  Bantu  Family — 
the  approximation  of  two  consonants  (s  and  k)  neither  of  which  is  a  nasal 
or  semi-vowel.  This  however  really  arises  from  the  gutturalising  of  a  "y** 
sound — what  should  be  pronounced  sya  becomes  ^x^  ^^^  •^^^• 

Ci-nyanja  is  the  dominant  language  of  Nyasaland.  It  is  represented  by 
the  Ci-nyanja,  Ci-cewa,  Ci-cipeta,  Ci-maravi,  Ci-makanga,  Ci-maftanja,  and 
Ci-mbo  dialects,  but  the  Senga,  Nyungwi  (Tete),  Sena,  and  Mazaro  languages 
of  the  Luangwa  Valley  and  the  Lower  Zambezi  are  closely  allied.  In  true 
Ci-nyanja  the  second  prefix  shrinks  to  a-,  though  in  some  of  the  north-western 
dialects  it  is  wa-^  and  in  the  Machinjiri  country  south  of  the  River  Ruo, 
especially  in  tlie  hills,  there  is  a  suspicion  of  an  aboriginal  ha-  (in  the 
language  of  Tete  it  is  va-).  The  Ci-nyanja  language  is  further  remarkable 
for  the  curious  changes  of  the  eighth  prefix  {bi-).  In  one  or  two  dialects 
this  becomes  vi-^  here  and  there  in  remote  corners  it  is  byi-  or  /^/-,  but  in 


LANGUAGES  485 

the  south-western  forms  of  Chinyanja  this  changes  to  bzi-  or  psi-  and  in 
Central  Ci-mafianja  to  zi- ;  a  parallel  to  Zulu.  The  Ci-pozo  language  repre- 
sented in  my  vocabularies  is  a  very  interesting  tongue.  It  is  spoken  in  the 
Zambezi  Delta  and  retains  many  old  roots  extinct  in  adjoining  dialects.  The 
form  of  the  eighth  prefix,  pi-,  is  a  rare  one  shared  with  the  Sena  dialect.  On 
the  whole  Ci-pozo  offers  strongest  affinities  with  the  Ci-nyanja  group  though  it 
has  evidently  influenced  and  been  influenced  by  I-cuambo,  the  language  of 
Quelimane.  This  last-named  tongue  is  the  most  southern  representative  of  the 
Makua  group. 

The  Makua  language  and  its  allied  dialects  (I-lomwe  and  others)  is  a  very 
remarkable  form  of  Bantu  speech,  which  has  evidently  been  long  isolated  in  this 
projection  of  South-East  Africa,  the  Mozambique  province,  shut  in  between 
I^ke  Nyasa,  the  Ruvuma  River,  the  Indian  Ocean,  and  the  Zambezi  Delta. 
While  preserving  many  primitive  roots,  the  prefixes  have  altered  strangely;  and 
a  dislike  to  certain  consonants  or  combinations  of  consonants  has  changed  the 
appearance  of  many  familiar  words,  so  much  that,  until  the  genius  of  the  language 
has  become  understood,  the  Makua  dialects  are  apt  to  appear  more  peculiar 
than  they  really  are.  Nasal  sounds  are  disliked  in  combination  with  labials : 
thus  instead  of  nyumba^  flombe,  mbuzi,  they  say  enupa,  ifiope^  epuri,  R  is  con- 
stantly substituted  for  t  and  z,  k  for  f,  and  h  for  s:  thus  makura^  "oil,"  instead  of 
tnafuta;  uhiu  instead  of  usiku,  H,  also,  is  constantly  substituted  for  k.  On  the 
whole,  Makua — or  I-makua^  as  it  is  called — is  nearest  in  its  affinities  to  the  tongues 
of  the  east  coast  on  its  northern  borders,  and  has  some  distant  resemblance  to 
Yao.  It  may  also  have  been  influenced  by  the  proximity  of  the  Ci-nyanja  group; 
but  it  represents  an  old  type  of  Bantu  long  isolated.  Some  of  its  prefixes  are 
well  nigh  inexplicable.  Two  curious  classes  it  shares  with  Yao — words  begin- 
ning in  the  singular  with  Mwa-  which  in  the  plural  are  prefixed  by  Asi-  (Yao- 
Mwa- ;  plural,  aci  or  aca).  Mwa-  may  be  short  for  Mwana — "child"  (of);  asi- 
appears  to  have  been  derived  from  a  Yao  honorific  prefix,  used  both  in  singular 
and  plural — aca  or  aci,  and  often  reduced  in  conversation  to  Ce  {che\  as  Ce 
Mataka — Mr.  Mataka. 

The  Yao  language  and  its  relative  Ci-ngindo  of  N.E.  Nyasaland  are  con- 
nected with  the  languages  of  the  Swahili  coast  Ci-yao  is  a  very  difficult 
language  to  learn,  on  account  of  the  complicated  changes  that  take  place  in  the 
verb  (of  which  there  are  some  nineteen  tenses  duplicated  by  an  almost  equal 
number  of  negative  tenses)  and  the  clumsy  method  of  dealing  with  adjectives. 
As  regards  the  changes  of  the  actual  root  of  the  verb,  these  only  take  place  in 
the  preterite  tense  (though  there  is  the  usual  change  of  the  terminal  vowel  in 
the  subjunctive  mood).  There  is  the  customary  change  of  the  terminal  vowel 
in  the  preterite  from  a  into  -ile^  which  is  so  widespread  in  slightly  varying  forms 
among  the  Bantu  languages  (as  Menya,  beat !  past  tense — menyile) ;  but  in 
addition  there  are  some  seven  irregular  forms,  which  can  be  studied  in  the 
Handbook  to  the  Yao  language,  by  the  Rev.  A.  Hetherwick. 

In  regard  to  the  adjectives  :  instead  of  the  simple  system  in  vogue  in  the 
more  primitive  Bantu  tongues  by  which  the  adjectival  root  is  merely  preceded 
by  the  particle  in  agreement  with  the  noun-class  to  which  the  substantive 
belongs — as  Muntu  Mukulu^R  great  man — we  have  first  the  noun's  particle 

man  great 

applied  to  the  adjectival  root  and  then  the  conjunctival  particle  of  the  noun's 

^  For  Ki-makua.  K  is  disliked  at  the  banning  of  a  word.  The  Ki-  prefix  becomes  I-  and  the  Ku- 
prefix,  U-. 


486  BRITISH   CENTRAL   AFRICA 

class  superadded.    Thus  :  not  Mundu  ;//knlungwa,  but  Mundujua^-m-ku/ungwa 

man  great  man         this  of  this      greatness 

=  Man  of  greatness,  "  great  man." 

Ci-yao  from  its  many  difficulties  will  never  become  a  useful  language  in 
British  Central  Africa.  The  Yao  themselves  seem  to  feel  this  from  the 
assiduity  with  which  they  employ  Ki-swahili  and  Ci-nyanja  in  their  trade 
transactions.  From  a  philological  point  of  view,  however,  it  is  a  most 
interesting  language,  the  construction  of  which  throws  considerable  light  on 
the  genesis  of  the  Bantu  speech. 

Among  the  languages  spoken  in  British  Central  Africa  should  be  enumerated 
Zulu.  The  use  of  Zulu  still  lingers  among  the  older  men  and  the  "  aristocracy  " 
of  the  Angoni  kingdoms  in  South- West,  North-West,  and  Eastern  Nyasaland, 
though  it  is  rapidly  disappearing.  In  some  districts  it  is  spoken  without  the 
clicks :  in  others  the  seventh  prefix  has  been  changed  back  to  la-  from  /si- 
and  the  eighth  prefix  has  been  restored  to  Ivi-  from  the  Zulu  corruption  /r/-. 
This  no  doubt  is  borrowed  from  the  Wa-tonga,  Wa-chewa,  and  Ba-tumbuka, 
who  are  the  indigenous  inhabitants  and  subject  peoples  of  Angoniland.  Just 
possibly  it  may  be  that  the  ancestors  of  the  Angoni  who  left  Zululand  about 
1820  retained  the  older  forms  of  these  prefixes.  Zulu  will  probably  leave  traces 
of  its  intrusion  into  these  lands  by  grafting  on  to  the  speech  of  the  Nyasa 
peoples  many  words  of  South  African  origin,  but  as  a  spoken  language  it  is 
destined  to  a  speedy  disappearance  north  of  the  Zambezi. 

Although  the  various  Bantu  dialects  of  British  Central  Africa  have  reached 
this  country  by  many  different  routes  and  are  derived  from  many  different 
subsidiary  stocks — their  common  origin  in  some  cases  going  back  to  a  distance 
of  time  and  space  both  remote — they  are  already  reacting  on  one  another  in  a 
manner  to  produce  a  certain  surface  resemblance  often  deceiving  to  the  casual 
traveller  who  requires  to  examine  closely  into  their  structure  and  vocabularies 
to  realise  that  although  outwardly  alike  in  some  respects,  there  are  in  reality 
well-marked  differences  between  the  minor  groups;  and  still  more  between 
the  languages  to  the  west  of  Lake  Nyasa  and  those  to  the  east  of  that  Lake 
(Ci-yao  and  I-makua), 

The  vocabularies  which  now  follow  have  all  with  four  exceptions  been 
collected  by  myself  from  natives  who  spoke  one  or  other  of  the  languages 
as  their  mother- tongue.  The  four  exceptions  are  Ci-mananja,  Ci-mbo, 
Ci-cuambo,  and  Ci-mazaro,  which  were  kindly  collected  for  me  by  the  Rev. 
D.  C.  Ruffele-Scott  of  Blantyre.  Some  of  the  words  in  the  Ci-cipeta 
vocabulary  are  supplied  by  Mr.  Scott  also. 

The  system  of  orthography  which  I  have  deemed  it  wise  to  adopt  is 
practically  that  of  Lepsius,  with  slight  modifications  which  make  it  easier 
for  printing  purposes.  The  consonants  are  pronounced  as  in  English  with 
the  exception  of  c,  which  always  stands  for  c/i  in  "  church."  N  represents 
the  ringing  nasal  sound  in  the  word  "ri«^i;sr^"  (as  contrasted  with  "ng"  in 
stro//^r"):  thus  Maftanja  is  pronounced  Mang'anja  but  without  any  pause. 
(I  stands  for  M  {th  in  "  this  "),  b  stands,  for  th  {th  in  think) ;  s  is  the  equivalent 
of  sh ;  z  the  equivalent  of  zh ;  y  (Greek  gamma)  represents  the  guttural 
sound  of  gh  (Arabic  c  yain — like  the  German  pronunciation  of  r) ;  x  (Greek 

^  Although  it  will  not  at  first  seem  apparent  to  the  reader,  jua.  and  nt-  are  really  of  the  same  origin. 
They  both  go  Imck  to  the  oldest  form  of  the  first  prefix— w^'//-.  This  became  in  time  »«-  and  mu-  as  a 
prefix,  but  as  a  parikle  it  has  in  many  languages  an  older  type--^/-,  /«-,  yu-,  wu-y  w'-.  The  m-  in 
w'kulungwa  stands,  of  course,  for  w//-. 


LANGUAGES  487 

cht)  is  kh  {ch  in  "  loch  ") ;  and  q  stands  for  the  Arabic  guttural  k,  "  kof,"  ^. 
Whenever  k  is  seen  it  is  to  be  pronounced  as  an  English  aspirate.  Thus  : 
Katha  would  be  pronounced  kat-ha,  not  katha  as  in  "Katharine";  bakha 
would  be  bak'ha,  not  ba^a ;   and  so  on. 

Vowels  are  pronounced  as  in  Italian,  with  //,  0  as  in  German.  O  is  like 
"o"  in  "not";  o  like  "o"  in  "st^re."  The  Greek  o)  stands  for  the  diphthongal 
sound  of  "o"  in  "bone."  The  diphthong  ei  must  be  carefully  and  logically 
pronounced  like  ey  in  "grey";  not  like  ey  in  "eye,"^  as  it  is  a  conjunction 
of  e  (ay)  and  i  {ee). 

The  numbers  placed  against  words  in  the  vocabularies  indicate  the  original 
classes  of  the  Bantu  mother-language  to  which  the  nouns  belong  and  correspond 
with  the  numbers  attached  to  my  foregoing  table  of  the  classes.  Thus  "9  and  10" 
attached  to  a  word  mean  that  it  belongs  in  that  form  to  both  the  ninth  and  tenth 
classes,  the  prefixial  distinction  being  lost  but  the  class  of  the  noun  being  still 
preserved  in  the  other  syntaxial  particles.^  Often  after  a  noun  the  word  "  two  " 
or  "  many  "  will  be  placed  as  the  explanation  of  an  accompanying  native  word. 
This  is  to  show  the  form  of  the  plural  adjectival  particle  or  prefix.  Of  course 
your  negro  informant  would  simply  gape  if  you  asked,  "  Now  tell  me  the  plural 
adjectival  prefix  of  the  fourth  class  "  ;  but  if  you  put  it  this  way,  "  How  do  you 
say  *  Two  Trees  *  ?  "  he  will  at  once  reply :  *'  Miti  gibili  "  =  "  Trees  two,"  and  you 
at  once  put  down  delightedly  "  gi "  as  the  adjectival  particle  belonging  to  nouns 
of  the  fourth  class  or  " Mi-*  prefix.  In  like  manner  the  sentences  at  the  end  are 
not  the  senseless  rubbish  they  seem,  but  are  intended  to  disclose  the  structure  of 
the  language. 

^  English  people  with  their  dull  hearing  and  want  of  knowledge  will  pronounce  the  name  of  the 
Portuguese  town  of  Beira,  **  B)nra,"  instead  of  Bayra, 

•  For  instance :  in  Ki-swahili,  nyumba  (class  9)  is  "a  house** ;  nyumha  (class  10)  is  "houses.*'  But 
Nyumba  hi/  is  "this  house,'*  and  Nyumba  his/  is  **  these  houses** :  showing  that  the  prefix  zi-  has  been 
lost  in  the  noun. 


488 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


C/5 

u 

z 

H 
Z 

CO 

Q 
< 

W5 


fi 

o 

O 

5 

^ 

Q 

ti 

i 

s 

C^ 

z 

« 

w 

H 

O 
PQ 

o 

o 
> 


i 


-J 
I 


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INDEX 


Note. — All  African  names  of  countries,  languages,  or  peoples,  which  are  not  found  under  their 
initial  letter  in  this  Index,  should  be  looked  for  under  the  initial  of  the  root -word.  Thus  for 
Ci-Yao  see  Yao,  Ci-,  or  Yao  language  ;  for  Wunyamwezi  see  Nyamwezi,  Wu- ;  Anyanja,  Nyanja,  A-. 
In  all  cases,  however,  where  the  reader  might  be  supposed  not  to  be  acquainted  with  the  root-word, 
the  commonest  compounds  are  also  given — Awemba,  as  well  as  Emba,  Aw-. 

The  lists  of  scientific  names  given  in  the  Appendices  are  not  always  referred  to  in  the  Index. 


Aard-wolf,  285 

Abu  Bakr,  116 

Abyssinia,  286,  295,  303 

Acacia  trees,  3,  2Q,  209,  220 

Accountants,  B.C. A.  Administration,  151 

Addax  antelope,  314 

Aden,  63 

Aden  Arabs,  io2 

Administration   of   B.C.  A  ,    107 ;   Appendix   to 

Chap.  IV.  (Attitude  of towards  slavery), 

158 
Advantages  of  B.C. A.,  178 
Africa,  Central,  18 1-2,  211 
"Africa  Orders  in  Council,"  114,  154 
African  Lakes  Company,  67,  71,  74,  77,  78,  82, 

97,  98,  116,  121,  137,  143,  147-8,  149  (Bank), 

150;  160-1,  165,  176,  181 
"Africana"  (by  Rev.  A.  Duflf  Macdonald),  68.  416 
Afzeliay  224 

Agriculture,  Native,  37,  424,  et  seq, 
Albert  Nyanza,  480 
Albizzia  trees,  2,  4,  220 
Alcohol  (in  Africa),  180-1 
Alga  in  Lake  Nyasa,  283 

Alluvial  soil,  48  ;  gold,  49 

Aloes,  4,  222-223 

Alston,  Lieut.,  134,  136,   138,  et  seq.^  140,  141, 

144,  146 
Ambo,  Wambo  Tribe,  459 
America  and  the  Slave  Trade,  156,  157 
Amomums  (Malaguetta  i>epper),  22$,  226 
Amphibiay  362 
Anoa,  303 

Ancestor-worship,  449 
Anderson,  Sir  Percy,  1 19,  129 
Anderson  Fort  (see  Fort  Anderson), 
Anemone,  211,  234 
Angas's  Tragelaph,  vide  Inyala, 
Anglo-German  Convention,  94,  96 
Anglo-Indian,  147 

Anj^lo- Portuguese  Convention,  96,  98 
Angoche,  56,  99,  156 
Angola,  59,  286,  334,  479 
Angoni,  ihe,  28,  32,  62-3,  70,  ic6,  144,  157,  162, 

392,  419,  421,  423,  432,  470 
Angoniland,  49,  421 


Angracum  orchids,  2IO 

Anguni  (people  and  country),  58,  130 

Anona  (Custard  apple),  220,  226,  428 

Ansellia  orchid,  210 

Anseresy  337 

Ant-eater,  Scaly  (see  Manis) 

Antelopes,  10,  309 

„        Sable,  4,  317  (see  Sable) 

Anthropology,  392,  et  seq. 

Ants,  375 

Apes,  Anthropoid,  285 

Arab,  Arabs,  23,  24,  30,  31,  32,  54,  56,  62,  64, 
71,  et  seq,,  82,  92,  94,  102,  124,  13s,  et  seq., 
156,  et  seq,,  392,  429,  434,  437,  440,  478 

Arab  town,  word  picture  of  an,  22,  et  seq, 

Arabia  (Southern),  54,  7i 

^Vrabic,  478-9 ;  (Coast),  55,  478 

Aristea  (iris),  212 

Armed  Forces  of  B.C.  A.,  152-3 

Arnot,  F.  S.  (Plymouth  Brethren  Mission),  190 

Artillery  (used  against  Arabs),  75,  139,  140 

Artiodactyla,  291 

Arums,  216 

Atonga,  70,  72,  104,  Ii6,  118,  130,  131,  168,404 
,,       Marriage  customs,  413,  414,  417,  419 

Aulacodus  swinderenianus,  291 

Australians  in  B.C. A.,  147 

Austro- Hungarian  settlers  in  B.C. A.,  147 

Author  (commencement  of  interest  in  affairs  of 
Nyasaland),  80 ;  Kilimanjaro  Expedition,  82  (and 
see  Kilimanjaro) ;  work  in  Niger  Coast  Protec- 
torate, 80;  conversation  with  Lord  Salisbury, 
80;  made  Consul  in  Portuguese  East  Africa, 
81  ;    proceeds  to   Lisbon,   81 ;  article   in   the 

Times,  81  ;  's  interview  with  Serpa  Pinto 

%2i ;   with    Mlauri,   the    Makololo    Chief,    84 ; 

makes    treaties    with    Makololo,    85 ;    's 

ride  to  Blantyre  \  arranges  for  British  Pro- 
tectorate and  leaves  for  Upper  Shire,  86; 
reception  at  hands  of  Lieut.  Coutinho,  88 ; 
reaches  Mponda's,  journeys  to  Island  of 
Likoma,  Bandawe,  and  Kotakota  on  Lake 
Nyasa,  90;  secures  first  portion  of  B.C.  A.  by 
arrangement  with  Jumbe,  92 ;  makes  peace 
with  North  Nyasa  Aral>s,  94 ;  starts  for  Tan- 
ganyika, 95  ;  explores  Lake  Rukwa,  95 ;  leaves 


532 


I 


INDEX 


533 


Tanganyika  for  Mozambique,  96;  returns  to 
England,  96;  made  a  C.B.,  96;  appointed 
Commissioner  for  B.C.  A.  and  Administrator  of 
the  B.S.A.  Co.*s  territories  North  of  Zambezi, 
97  ;  returns  to  B.C. A.,  97 ;  arrives  at  Zomba 
and  starts  for  Mponda's,  100 ;  leaves  for  Lake 
Nyasa  on  Christmas  Day,  1 891,  after  Captain 

'  Maguire's  death,  105 ;  makes  war  on  Zarali, 
105-6 ;  troubles  with  European  settlers,  108 ; 
"Job"  experiences,  108;  imposes  Hut  Tax, 
no;  commences  Land  settlement,  112;  spends 
Christmas  of  1892  at  Blantyre,  115;  goes  on 
expedition  against  slave-traders  on  Upper  Shire, 
116;  goes  to  South  Africa  to  confer  with  Mr. 
Rhodes,  117;  divides  B.C. A.  into  administra- 
tive districts  (1893),  119;  restores  order  at  Fort 
IJster  after  attempted  assassination  of  Captain 
Johnson ;  proceeds  on  2nd  Makanjira  expedition, 
121;  founds  Fort  Maguire,  126;  returns  to 
England  (1894),  126;  organises  Civil  Service  of 
Protectorate,  129;  establbhes  postal  service,  129; 
proceeds  to  India,  129;  returns  to  B.C. A.,  129; 
proceeds  against  Matipwiri,  ZaraB,  and  Mponda, 
133,  et  seq.;  accepts  Mponda*s  surrender,  134; 
continues  campaign  against  Arabs,  136 ;  lands 
at  Karonga  and  starts  for  Arab  stockades,  138  ; 
interview  with  Mlozi  during  truce ;  offers  Arabs 
terms,  140  ;  resumes  bombardment,  140;  enters 
stockade,  142 ;  tries  Mlozi  and  sanctions  his 
execution,  143  ;  falls  ill  with  black -water  fever, 
14:5 ;  returns  to  England  on  leave  of  absence 
(1896),  146;  introduces  cash  currency  (English 
coinage)  into  B.C. A.,  149;  experiences  in 
regard  to  Black-water  fever,  179;  botanical 
collections  of,  233 ;  views  regarding  elephants, 
291-2;  classification  of  zebras,  292,  et  seq.;  of 
antelopes,  309,  birds,  333,  et  seq. ;  feeling  towards 
the  African  goat,  432;  receives  "war"  messages 
from  Yao  chiefs,  469 

Awemba,  135, 145,  >57, 389,421*  423.430»  468,470 

Babisa  (see  Bisa) 

Baboon,  286-7 

Bain,  Rev.  Mr.,  73 

Baker,  Sir  Samuel,  292 

Baloi  or  Balui,  77 

Bamboos,  4,  7,  8 

Bananas,  427,  429 ;  wild,  217 

Bandawe  (place),  70,  90 

Sergcant-Major,  130,  131,  142 

Bongweolo,  Lake,  39,  45,  61,  64,  65 

Bank  (A.  L.  Co.'s),  150 

Bantu  languages,  54,  478,  et  seq, ;  origin  of  the, 
54,  479,  480 ;  prefixes  of,  482,  et  seq, ;  proposi- 
tions defining,  481,  482 

Bantu  negroes,  55,  389,  479 

Baobab  tree,  20,  221,  223,  229 

Baptist  Mission,  189 

Barbets,  332,  350 

Barutse,  65,  (^^  69,  77,  156,  190 

Baskets,  native,  458 

Basuto,— land,  65,  156  ;  ponies,  164 

Batoka  or  Batonga,  58,  77,  233 

Batrachians,  359 

Bats,  288 

Beads,  422,471 

Beans  (native,  cultivated),  426,  427,  429 

Bechuana,  — land,  65,  66,  77 


Bedford,  Admiral,  121 

Bees,  374,  381 

Bee-eaters,  335,  351 

Beetles,  196,  368,  385 

Beira,  55,  56,  487 

Belcher,  Mr.  Ralph,  97 

Belgians,  71 

Bell,  Mr.  F.  Jeffrey,  365 

Bemdt,  Captain,  137 

Bicycles  in  B.C.  A.,  164,  187 

Birds,  II,  329,  et  seq, 

and  crocodiles,  355 

singing,  of  Africa,  195,  332 

Birth  customs  (see  Customs,  Ethnology) 

Bisa,  Ba-,  62,  71,  389,  479;  Ci-,  480,  484, 

and  Vocabularies ;  Lu-,  71,  156 

Blacksmiths,  native,  51 

Black- water  Fever,  x^^et  seq,^  172,  178-9,  et  seq,y 
184-5 

Blantyre,  27,  28,  66,  86,  130,  149,  154,  161,  166^ 
et  seq.f  189 

"atrocities"  (Commission  thereon),  68 

Bleek,  Dr.,  449 

Bocarro,  Jaspar,  57,  58 

Boma  (a  stockade),  130,  175 

Bombax^  210 

Boo;  see  Tra^elaphus angasi 

Books  in  Central  Africa,  188 

Borassus  palms,  I,  2 1 3,  214,  23 1 

Boroma,  234 

Botanists,  211 

Botany,  207,  211 

Botanical  gardens  at  Zomba,  151,  174 

Bovida,  BoviniCy  309,  et  seq, 

Bowhill,  J.  O.,  440 

Boyce,  Dr.,  104;  125,  144 

Brachystegia^  229 

Bradshaw,  Lieut.-Cblonel,  136,  et  seq,y  141 

Brass,  463 

Brass  wire  drawing,  463 

Brickmaking,  173 

British  Central  Africa :  name  first  given,  96 ;  first 
European  to  enter,  58 ;  general  situation  in,  in 
1889,  76;  inaccessibility  of,  in  1889,  JT,  de- 
clared a  Protectorate,  86  ;  first  portion  secured, 
92  ;  declared  a  British  Sphere  of  Influence,  oSj. 
eastern  boundaries  of,  146;  devastated  by  slave 
trade,  156 ;  a  field  for  coffee  planting,  164 ; 
steamers  of,  147  ;  trade  of,  147  ;  a  clearly - 
marked  Zoographical  sub-region,  285 

British  Central  Africa  Administration,  107,  (Ap- 
pendix to  Chapter  IV.)  153-4,  158;  attitude  of, 
towards  slave  trade,  156,  et  seq, 

British  Central  Africa  Gazette^  154 

British  Concession,  Chinde,  164 

British  Government  discouraged  in  Zambezia,  63 ; 
unable  to  assist  settlers  against  Arabs  in  1889, 78 ; 
considers  financial  position  in  B.C. A.,  126,  129 

British  South  Africa  Company,  36,  50,  81,  89, 
(agreement  for  support  of  B.C.  A.  Administration) 
97,  (subsidies  oi)  117,  126,  129,  (assumes  direct 
administration  of  its  northern  territory,  1895)* 
129;  146,  148,  158 

British  subjects  in  B.C.A.,  146-7 

Bua  river,  49 

Bubaiis,  321 

Buchanan,  Mr.  John,  66,  68,  74,  76,  77,  85,  86,. 
96,  103,  160,  161,  233 


534 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


Budorcas^  321 

Bufialo,  10,  303,  et  sfq,,  329 ;   Indian,  64,  303, 

305 
Bugs,  369,  381 
Bulbul,  195,  332,  349 
Buntings,  331,  348 
Burchell's  zebra,  292,  295-6 
Burial  customs ;  see  Customs,  Ethnology 
Burkill,  Mr.  J.  H.,  233 
Burton,  Sir  Richard  Francis,  63,  64 
Bushbuck,  305-6,  329 
Bush  fires,  37,  42 

Bushmen,  52,  53,  389,  479-80 ;  stones,  52 
Bush  pig  {Potamocharus)^  296-7,  329 
Bustards,  329.  341,  351 
Butterflies,  196,  367-8,  381,  it  seq, 

Cameron,  Mr.  K.  C,  233 

Cameron,  Capt.  V.  L.,  66 

Canaries,  wild,  331 

Candido  de  Costa  Cardoso,  60 

Cannibalism,  446,  et  seq. 

Canoes,  native,  456-7 

Cant  among  Missionaries,  190,  et  seq. 

Cape  Colony,  429 

Cape-oak  {liex)^  10 

Cape  of  Good  Hope,  59 

*•  Cape  to  Cairo,"  81,  96 

Cape  Town,  28,  59,  60 

Capital  needed  in  B.C. A.  for  coffee  planting,  160, 

163,  164 
**Capitao,"  168,  204 
Capncorns,  309,  327 
Capsicums,  428 
.Carr,  Lieut. -Commander,  117 
Carson,  Mr.,  234 
Cash  (introduction  of),  I49>  178 
Cassava,  427,  429 
Castor  Oil,  223,  427,  428;  plant,  223,  224, 

429 
Castration  of  slaves,  158-9 
Cat,  domestic,  289,  434 

,,     wild,  of  B.C.A.,  289 
Cattle  (of  European  planters),  160,  177 

„      of  natives,  429,  et  seq,;  domestic  ^breeds  of 

Africa,  430 
Cavendish,  Captain  Hon.  W.  E.,  133-4,  136 
Cear^  rubl>er,  160 

Cedar  (Mlanje),  12,  13,  150,  224,  232 
Celibacy  among  missionaries,  198-9 
Centipedes,  364-5 
Central  Africa  (see  Africa,  Central) 
Central  Angoniland,  144,  154 
Central  Zambezi,  89,  190 
Cephalophus^  309;  Cephalophines,  309,  et  seq, 
Cercopithecus,  287 
Cervkapra^  311 

Chambezi  (District),  119;  (River),  65 
Chameleons,  356,  362 
Champagne  in  fever,  180 
Chapman's  Zebra,  295-6 
Charles  Janson,  Mr.,  69 
Charles  Janson,  s.s.,  55,  69,  76,  90,  93 
Cheetah,  286,  289 
Chewa,  A,  144-5,  430;  Ci-  (Ci-cewa),  484,  and 

Vocabularies 
**Chicote"  (Hippo-hide  whip),  169 
Chiefs,  native,  114,  468-9 


Chifisi,  106,  132 
Chikala,  Mount,  115,  131,  132 
Chikumbu,  Chief,  91-2 
Chikunda,  A.,  391 
Chikusi,  100,  132,  146 
Chikwawa,  154 

Chilwa,  Lake,  46,  47,  51,  60,  130,  174,  296,  318 
Chinde,  98,  148,  149,  164,  165 
„        River,  63,  79,  82,  165 
Chipatula,  69;  sons  of,  84,  85,  87 
Chipeta,  A-,  145 
Chiperone,  Mount,  319 
Chipoka,  Chief,  99,  107,  108,  330 
Chiradzulu,  Mount,  38,  69,  84,  87,  88,  98,  132, 

149,  154,  164,  166 
Chiromo,  303,  335,  439 
Chiuta,  Lake,  46,  455 
Chiwaura,  121,  122-4 
Cholo,  Mount,  447 
Chongone,  Mount,  45 
Churdi  at  Blantyre,  28,  175 
Church  of  Scotland   Mission   {vide   Missionary 

Societies) 
Churchill,  Mr.  W.  A  .  82,  96 
Cinchona,  160 
Cinnabar,  50 
Civet,  289 

Civil  Service,  B.C. A.,  152,  153 
Civilisation  (at  Blantyre),  27,  28 
"Claims,  Certificates  of,"  113 
Clematis,  7 

Climate  of  B.C.  A.,  39,  40 
CnestiSy  210 
Coal,  49,  51,  151 
Coape-Smith,  Lieut.  H.,  133-4,  135,  136,  et  seq.^ 

141,  143-4 

Cobras,  356,  359 

Cobus  antelopes:  C.  eUipsiprymnus,  312;  C. 
lechwe^  286,  312;  C,  vardoni^  286,  312;  C 
senganus^'^\2\  C. crawshayi^'^iT.-y,  C.penriceij 
313  ;  C.  niaria,  314 

The  Cobus  group  generally,  309 

Cockroaches,  367,  371-2 
.^Cocoanut-palm,  23,  212,  214 

•^  Coflfee   (introduction    of,   66),    160,   429 ;    ( 

planting),  77,  160,  161,  163;  Export  and 
prices  of,  147,  162 ;  Kinds  of,  161  ;  Manures 
for,  162  ;  Methods  of  planting,  162,  170 ;  yield 
of,  per  acre,  162;  **  topping, '  163;  treatment 
of  ripe  berries,  170 

Coinage  (see  English  Coinage) 

Colobus  monkey,  285,  287 

Coiocasia^  429 

Cold  temperature,  41,  186 

Coleoptera,  385,  et  seq. 

Colies,  332-3.  350 

Collectors  and  Assistant  Collectors,  1 52-3 

Commelina^  210 

Commissioner  of  B  C.A.,  97,  114,  152 
„  „         „         Deputy,  152 

Comoro  Islands,  64 

Concession,  British  (see  British  Concession) 

Congo  Basin,  54,  303,  479 

„       Free  State,  89,  148,  285,  334 
,,       River,  60,  66,  80,  303 
,,       Treaty  of  1884.  80 

**  Conquistadores,"  56 

Consul  for  Nyasa,  68 


INDEX 


535 


Cooking,  native  methods  of,  436,  et  seq. 

Coots,  27 

Copaifera^  2 10,  220,  224,  229 

Copper,  51,  460,  463 

Coreopsis  flowers,  7,  212 

Cormorants,  27,  342,  353 

Cost  of  living  in  B.C.  A.,  178 

Cotterill,  Mr.  H.  B.,  67 

Cotton,  160 

Courts  of  Justice,  foundation  of,  1 14 

Coutinho,  Lieut.,  87,  et  seq* 

Crabs,  land,  363 

Cranes,  338,  352 

„       Crowned,  27,  338,  340-1 
Crawshay,   Mr.   Richard,  74,  94,  97,   116,   135, 

295»  298,  312-3,  322,  325,  326 
Crickets,  374 
Crinum  lilies,  209 
Crocodiles,  73,  343»  355-6,  361 
Cross,  Dr.  D.  Kerr,  73,  74,  95,  135,  137,   180, 

184,  442,  449,  45 1 1  473.  <?'  ^eq. 
Crotalaria^  210,  428-9 
Croton,  224 

Crow,  II,  330  (South  African,  330),  349 
Crown  land,  113 
Crystals,  Quartz,  51 
Cuambo  (Chuambo)  I-  (I-cuambo),  485-6  and 

Vocabularies 
Cuckoos,  332,  350 
Cucumbers,  426,  et  seq, 
Cullen,  Commander  Percy,  49,  51,   138,  et  seq.y 

140,  141 
Cultivated  plants,  426,  et  seq,^  144 
Cumming  (see  Gordon  Cumming) 
Cunningham,  Mr.  J.  F.,  115 
Customs,  Native:  Birth,  416 

„  „  Burial,  444,  ^/ j<r^. 

„  ,,  Death,  443 

,,  ,,  Initiation,  409,  r/ j/-^. 

,,  ,,  Marriage,  411,  ^/ j^^. 

Customs  (fiscal).  Organization  of  B.C. A.,  no 
Cycads,  7,  214 
Cyitoglossuvty  212 
Cypresses  (at  Blantyre),  29,  175 
„         Mlanje  (see  Cedars) 

Daily  Telegraph,  66 

/>awa/«f«j(Tsessebe  antelope),  286.  309,  326, 329 

Dances,  native,  409,  411,  452 

Darter  {Plotus),  3,  343 

Date  palms,  wild,  2,  7 

Dau  (Arab  sailing  vessel),  102,  103,  125,  148,  153 

Decency,  sense  of,  among  natives,  419 

Decle,  M.  Lionel,  115 

Dedza  or  Deza,  Mount,  45 

Deep  Bay,  94 

Depth  of  water  on  Chinde  bar,  79 ; Kongone 

bar,  78 
Devil  (Natives'  idea  of  a),  449 
Devoy,  Sergt. -Major,  136,  138,  140 
•*Dh61,"426 
Dhow  (see  Dau) 
Diamonds,  51 
DisOy  ground  ^orchis,  2ii 
Diseases  of  Natives,  439,  473,  et  seq. 
Dissotisy  7 

Districts  of  B.C.A.  Protectorate,  118-9,  154 
Divination  rod,  45 1 


Dog  (Native),  433 

Domasi,  130 

Domestic  animals,  429,  et  seq, 

DomirOy  S.S.,  102,  103-4,  II6,  121,  136,  143 

Donkeys,  379,  434-5 

Dorcatheriumy  285,  310 

Doves,  II 

Drugs,  222,  440 

Drums,  460 

Dry  season,  42 

Duala  language  of  West  Africa,  61 

Ducks,  26,  338,  353,  434 ;  tree  ducks,  26,  338 

Duckweed,  Giant  {Pistia  stratiotes),  17 

Duff  Macdonald,  Rev.  Alex.,  68,  412,  416,  444 

Duncan,  Mr.  Jonathan,  160,  161 

Durban,  164,  179 

Durrha  grain,  429 

Dutch  in  B.C. A.,  147 

Duyker  antelope,  309,  310,  329 

Dyes,  460 

Eagle,  Bateleur,  345,  352;  Warlike,  crested,  345, 
352;  Fish,  27,345,  352 

Earthworms,  365 

Eljony,  220,  224,  228 

Edentates,  321 

Edinburgh  Botanical  Gardens,  161 

Edwards,  Lieut. -Colonel  (Lieut.,  Major),  117, 1 20, 
122,  et  seq.y  126,  132,  133,  134,  et  seq,,  141,  143, 
146,  152,  443,  450 

Eggs  as  food,  437 

Egrets,  I,  27,  342 

Egypt,  480 

Eland,  305,  329 

Elais  palm,  35 

Electric  Fish  (Afalaptentnts), 

Elephants,  29,  30,  291-2,  435 

Eleusine  (Maere,  etc.,  small  grain),  426,  429,  437 

Elmslie,  Dr.,  392 

Elton,  Capt.  Fred,  66,  67 

Eltz,  Herr  von,  117 

Emba,  Aw-  (see  Aweniba) ;  Emba,  Ki-,  480,  484 
and  Vocabularies 

Emba,  Lu-,  189 

English  (in  B.C. A.),  147 

„      perverse  inaccuracy  of  the in  spelling 

foreign  names,  62,  487 

English  coinage,  149 

EquuSy  295-6 

ErioseniGy  210 

ErythrinOy  209,  227 

ErythropklteutUy  224,  441 

Ethnology,  392,  409  ;  Ethnological  characteristics 
of  the  natives  of  B.  C.  A.  ;  initiation  cere- 
monies, 409,  et  seq,  ;  marriage  customs,  41 1, 
et  seq.  ;  customs  relating  to  birth ;  procur- 
ing alx>rtion,  417  ;  naming  of  children,  417, 
418;  change  of  names,  418;  clothing,  418, 
419,  et  seq.  ;  sense  of  decency,  419 ;  hair- 
dressing,  421,  et  seq.;  ornaments,  tatooing, 
422-3 ;  ear,  nose,  and  lip  appendages,  423-4 ; 
deformation  of  teeth,  424 ;  agriculture,  424, 
et  seq. ;  cultivated  plants,  426,  et  seq. ;  domestic 
animals,  429.  et  seq. ;  hunting,  435-6 ;  fishing, 
436 ;  food  and  cooking,  436,  et  seq. ;  fire 
making,  438 ;  ideas  alK)ut  death  and  disease, 
439,  443  ;  therapeutics,  444,  et  seq. ;  ordeals  by 
poison  and    otherwise,   441,  468 ;    death   and 


536 


BRITISH   CENTRAL  AFRICA 


burial  customs,  433,  it  seq.  ;  witchcraft,  sorcery, 
and  cannibalism,  446,  et  seq, ;  ideas  of  God, 
ancestor- worship,  belief  in  an  evil  spirit,  449, 
etseq,;  divination,  magic,  rain  wizards,  super- 
stitions, 450,  et  seq. ;  &bles,  452 ;  houses,  453, 
et  seq,;  villages,  456;  canoes,  456;  weaving, 
457  J  pottery,  string,  leather  work,  459-60 ; 
dyes,  metal  work,  460,  463 ;  musical  instru- 
ments, 464-7 ;  justice,  468,  et  seq. ;  war,  470 ; 
property,  471 ;  trade,  471 ;  diseases,  473,  et  seq, 

Euan-Smith,  Sir  Charles,  76 

Eucalyptus,  29,  175 

Euphorbia,  174,  220,  222,  224 

Eurafricans,  66 

Eurasians,  147 

European  (First  to  enter  B.C. A.),  58 

Europeans,  28,  113,  146,  149 

European  officials,  24 

,,       settlers,  146,  149  (relations  with  natives), 
182,  et  seq. 

Executions  for  murder  in  B.C. A.,  154 

Falcons,  352 

Faulkner,  Mr.,  66 ;  *s  son,  66 

Fe/tsy  289 

Fen  wick,  George,  68,  69 
,,         Mrs.,  69 

Ferns,  14,  215 

Ferns,  Tree,  7,  215 

Fever,  167,  179,  198,  474-5 

Fever,  Black-water,  19,  et  seq.,  172-3,  178-9, 
et  seq.  J  1 84-5,  475 

Fibre,  fibre  plants,  223 

FicuSf  162,  220,  226,  228 

Fig  trees,  sycomore,  3,  4,  162,  226,  228 

Finfoot.  337,  352 

Fipa.  A,  389,  392 ;  Ki-,  484  and  Vocabu- 
laries 

Fire  (originated  sometimes  by  lightning),  439 ; 
how  made  by  natives,  438  ;  customs  as  to,  439 

Fish.  359,  360,  361-2 

Fish-eagle,  27,  345 

Fishing-owl,  337 

Flamingoes,  26,  341-2,  352 

Flannel,  185 

Fleas,  368  ;  Burrowing (see  Jigger) 

Fletcher,  Corporal  W.,  130 
,,        Mr.  S.  Hewitt-,  130 

Flies,  350,  37^^  etseq. 

Flogging  of  Natives,  169 

Flora  of  B.C. A.,  207,  et  seq.,  233,  et  seq. 
,,     mountain,  14 

Flowers  (beauty  of),  7,  ii,  172,  177,  208,  21 1 
(wild),  II,  14,  177,  208 

Fly-catchers,  350 

Foa,  M.  (French  traveller),  290,  323 

Fogs  on  the  rivers,  42 

Foliage,  spring,  4 

Folk-lore,  452 

Food,  native,  items  of,  436 ;  preparation  of,  436 

Foot,  Consul,  68,  79 

Foreign  Office  (action  in  regard  to  Blantyre 
atrocities),  68 ;  (modus  vivendi  with  Portugal), 
81  ;  written  to  by  missionaries,  108;  150 

Forests,  35,  208,  216 

Forsyth- Major,  Dr.,  52,  297 

Fort  Anderson,  119,  149,  154 
„    Hill,  145 


Fort  Johnston,  61,  100,  10$,  106,  109,  132,  135, 

143,  154,  189 
Fort  Lister,  119,  120,  133 

,,    Maguire,  103,  126 

„    Mangoche,  134,  146 

,,    Sharpe,  117 
Fotheringham,  L.  Monteith,  72-3,  et  seq. ,  96,  97, 

105 
Fowl,  domestic,  434,  480 
Foxes,  285 

Francolin,  ii,  347,  351 

Free  Church  Mission  (Livingstonia),  66,  70,  135 
French,  the,  146,  147      V^^^, 

„       Mr.  (P.M.G.,  Cape  Colony),  126 
„       Evangelical  Mission,  77 
Fruits,  226 
Fruit-bats,  288 
Fungi,  428 
Ful  language,  479 
Fwambo,  95 

Galago.  287-8 

Gallinules,  27 

Gambia,  River,  288 

Game,  Big,  regulations  dealing  with,   150,  296^ 

303*  326,  et  seq. 
Games,  native  children's 
Gamitto,  Captain,  60 
Ganda,    Ba-,    Bu-,    Lu-,   479,    4?o,    483,    and 

Vocabularies 
Gardenia  tree,  209 
Gardens  at  Zomba,  150-1 
Garnets,  51 

Garrod,  Professor  A,  H.,  309,  333 
Gazelles,  285 
Gazette,  B.C. A.,  154 
Cheese,  353,  434 
Geese,  Egyptian,  26,  3^8,  434 

„       Spur-winged,  26,  337,  434 

,,       Knob-nosed,  338 
Genet,  289 
Geographical  Society,  Royal,  63 

„  „  „      Scottish,  79 

Geology  of  B.C.A.,  47 
German  Government,  94,  148 

,,       Steamer,  137,  143 
Germans  in  B.C.  A.,  147 
Germany,  85 

Giraffe,  150,  286,  298,  328 
Giraud,  Monsieur,  39 
Gladioli,  212 
Glave,  Mr.,  122,  124 
Gnu,  320,  321,  328;  Nyasaland  Gnu,  318,  321^ 

et  seq. 
Goanese,  59 

Goat,  the  African,  432,  et  seq.,  456 
Goats,  309 

Goat-suckers,  335,  350 
God,  Bantu  Negroes'  idea  of,  449 
Gold,  21,  49,  50,  56,  57,  463 
Gomphia  trees,  4 
Gordon  Gumming,  Mr.  Walter,  136,   138,    141  > 

143-4 
Gori  or  Goli  Stick  (see  Slave  Sticks) 
Granite,  4,  17  {footnote),  48 
Grant,  Mr.  J.  A.,  90,  118 
Graphite,  51  • 
Grass,  193,  214,  218 


INDEX 


537 


Graves,  native,  444 

Gray,  Dr.,  292,  295 ;  Mrs.  Gray's  Waterbuck,  317 

Grebes,  353 

Greuna,  224 

Ground-nuts,  223,  424,  429 

Guano,  162 

Guha,  Ki-,  480,  483,  484,  and  Vocabularies 

Guinea-fowl,  329,  34^7,  351,  434?  Crested , 

329,  346 
Gulls,  26,  344,  354 
Guns  (in  outfit),  164,  186 
Gunboats  (Lake  Nyasa),  109,  121,  138,  153 

,,         (Zambezi-Shire),  98,  130,  146-7 
Gunther,  Dr.,  360-1 
GypohieraXy  285,  345-6 
Gyps,  285 

Hmlialus  (Fish  Eagle) 

Haemoglobinuria,  Hoemoglobinuric  Fever,  184-5 

Hajji  Askar,  125 

Hamilton,  Lieut.,  13 1,  132 

Hamitic  races  or  tongues,  54,  179 

Hare,  290,  452 

Harrhy,  Mr.  E.,  126 

Harrison,  Mr.  James,  318,  326 

Hartebeest,  320,  321,  329 

Hausa  language,  479 

Hawes,  Consul,  74,  76,  119 

Hawks,  346,  352 

fleat  (great  heat  of  portions  of  B.CA.),  40,  41 

Heath,  heather,  11 

Helichrysumy  212 

Hemipode  ( Tumix),  337,  347,  351 

Hemiptera,  381 

Hemp,  223,  427,  429,  461 

Henderson,  Mr.  Henry,  68,  161 

Henga,  Wa-,  94,  390 

,,         Ci-,  484  and  Vocabularies 
Herald,  H.M.S.,  98 

„         Port  (see  Port  Hemld) 

Herons,  27,  342,  353  ;  Goliath 27,  342 

Hetherwick,  Rev.  Alex.,  68,  84,  205,  224,  485 

HiHsais,  210,  223,  459 

Hides,  182 

Hill,  Sir  Clement,  145 

Hill,  Fort,  145 

Hillier,  Mr.  H.  A.,  no 

Hindustani,  479 

Hine,  Dr.  (Bishop  of  Likoma),  189 

Hippopotamus,  56,  108,  182,  296,  435 

Hippotragina,  314,  316,  318 

Hoare,  Mr.  George,  116 

Hoes,  425,  464 ;  for  trade,  182 

Holub,  Dr.  Emil,  77,  233 

Honey,  436 

Honey-guide  {Indicator),  332,  350 

Hoopoes,  335,  351 ;  Tree  Hoopoes,  335,  351 

Hornbills,  335,  ei  seq.,  351 ;  Ground ,  336 

Hornets,  375 

Horse,  377,  379 

Hoste,  Captain,  67 

Hottentots,  52,  53,  394,  399,  479,  480 

Houses  European,  in  B.C. A.),  173 

Hunting,  native  methods  of,  435 

Hunting  Dog  {Lycaon)^  290 

Hut-tax,  no,  III 

Huts,  native,  453,  et  stq. 

Hyena,  289,  452 


Hynde,  Mr.,  131 
Hypericum,  212 
Hymenocardias,  220 
Hymenoptera,  380 
Hyphcene  palm  (see  Palm) 

picture  of,  29 
Hyrax,  291 


Forest,  word- 


Ibis  (Hagedash),  27,  342 ;  (Sacred),  27,  342 

Ichneumon,  290 

Ilala,  the,  66,  67,  90,  92-3,  121 

Impala  antelope  (see  Pallah) 

Indecency,  natives  unconscious  of,  200,  408,  419 

India,  129;  India,  the  place  of  man's  origin,  53 

Indian  government,  97,  129 

,,      immigrants,  traders,  147,  177 

,,      surveyors,  152 

„      troops,  soldiers,  contingent,  98,  100,  129, 

152 
Indicator  (Honey-guide),  332,  350 
Induna,  S.S.,  164 
Inge,  Mr.  H.,  106 
Inheritance,  laws  of,  471 
Initiation  ceremonies, 
Insectivora,  288 
Insects,  196,  366,  et  seq, 
Inyala  ( Tragelapkus  angasi),  305-6,  329 
Irish  in  B.C.A.,  147 
Iron,  51,  460,  463-4 
Italians  in  B.C. A.,  147 
Itawa,  145 

Itch-bean  {Mucuna),  221 
Ivory,  177,  182,  464,  467,  471 

Jackal,  290 

}ack*in-the-Beanstalk's  Country,  9,  10 
amaica  Coffee,  161 
James  Stevenson,  Mr.,  47 
/antes  Stevenson,  s.s.,  38,  78,  82-3 

ianson,  Charles  (see  Charles  Janson),  69 
at  Sikhs,  n8 
Jerboas,  285 
esuit  missionaries,  57,  189,  190 
iigger  (burrowing  flea),  367-9 
ohnson,  Capt.  C  E.,  108,  116,  1 1 8,  119,  120, 
122,  123,  et  seq.,  126 
Johnson,  Rev.  W.  P. ,  69,  76 
Johnston,  Sir  Harry  H.  (see  Author) 

,,         Fort  (see  Fort  Johnston) 
Johnston's  pallaii,  318,  326 
Jose,  Amaro,  and  Baptista,  59 
Jumbe  of  Kotakota,  50,  71,  76,  90,  et  seq.,  107, 

121,  122,  124 
Justice,  administration  of,  154  ;  468-9 
„       courts  of,  114,  154;  (native),  468 

Kada,  120 

Kafue  R.,  45,  78,  190 
Kahn  and  Co.,  18 1 
Kalahari  Desert,  65 
Kalungwizl  R.,  234 
Kambwe  Lagoon,  94 
Kapemba,  Mt.,  25 
Karonga,  72,  94,  135,  137,  154 
Katanga,  50,  65,  114,  190,  460 
Katunga,  85,  166 

„       Road,  114,  149 
Katuri,  146 


538 


BRITISH    CENTRAL   AFRICA 


Kawinga,  103,  115,  129,  131.  175 
Kazembe  (of  Liinda),  59,  468 

,,         (of  Rifii),  102,  124 
Keane,  Commander  J.  IL,  98,  105,  106,  108 
Keiller,  Mr.,  103 

Kese,  Ba-,  Ki-,  484  and  Vocabularies 
Kew  Gardens,  151,  211,  233 
Khaya  tree,  220,  223,  228 
Kigelia,  223 
Kilimanjaro,  Mt.,  63,  289,  480;  Author's  book 

on,  154,  318,  330,  365,  453 
Kilwa,  56,  100 
King,  Mr.  J.  G.,  105,  106 
Kingfishers,  2,  27,  335,  336,  351 
Kiongwe,  Ali,  82,  90,  96 
Kirk,  Sir  John,  58,  60,  61,  233 
Klipspringer,  309,  310,  31  f,  329 
Kniphophia^  222 
Koelle,  Rev.  Mr.,  156 
Kongone,  mouth  of  Zambezi,  78,  79 
Kopakopa,  137,  138,  140,  141 
Kotakota,  71,  76,  90,  124,  154,  177,  189,  214 
Kudu,  305,  317,  329 
Kuluunda,  124-5 
Kumtiramanja,  133-4 
Kunene  R.,  53 

KungH  fly,  the,  of  Lake  Nyasa,  436 
Kwakwa  R.,  78 
Kwango  R.,  59 


Labour,  native,  168 
Lacerda,  Dr.  F.  J.  M.  de 


-e  Almeida,  59 


Lady  Nyasa,  the,  68,  78,  84 

Lake  (word  picture  of)»  I7»  18 

Lakes,  fluctuations  in  Lake  levels,  38,  47 

Land,  price  of,  154,  166-7;  Land  under  cultiva- 
tion, 149 

Land  Claims,  113 

Land  Claims,  settlement  of,  107,  1 12-3 

Landolphia^  223,  226 

Langenburg,  94 

Languages  of  B.C.  A.,  478,  et  seq. 
,,         Bantu  (see  Bantu) 

Larks,  329,  348 

lASt,  Mr.  J.  T.,  233 

Laws,  Dr.  Robert,  (^y  70 

Leather,  460 

I^echwe  Antelope,  286,  314,  329 

Lemurs,  287 

Leopard,  288 

Leopard  Bay  (Rifii),  124 

Lepidoptera^  381,  et  seq. 

Lianas,  223 

Liberian  Coffee,  16 1 

Likoma,  Bishop  of,  70,  189;  Id.  of,  70,  90,  189 

Likubula  R.,  177 

Lilies,  carmine,  4,  177 
,,      crimson, 

, ,      ( Gloriosa  super  ba)  ,221 
„      tree,  1 1 
„      water,  3 

Lily-trotter  (Parra  africana\  27,  343 

Limestone,  48 

Lion,  288 

Lip  ornaments,  423,  424 

Lissochilus  ground  orchids,  210,  312 

Lister,   Sir  Villiers,   119;   ,   Fort  (se^  Fort 

Lister) 


Livingstone,    Dr.,  24,  27,  37,  38,  60,   61,  63; 

(third  expedition),  64;  (death  of),  65  ;  71, 145, 

156,  157,  446 
Livingstonia,  70 

Livingstonia  Free  Church  Mission,  66,  70,    189 
Liwonde,  115,  116,  117 
Liwonde,  Fort,  117,  143,  149,  154 
Lizards,  356,  361 
Lobelia,  9 

Locks,  native  made,  459 
Locustids,  373 
Locusts,  369,  370,  373 
Lofu  R.,  27 

Lolo,  A-,  119,  134,  39r,  421,  424 
Lomwe,  A-;  I-,  391,  485  and  Vocabularies 
Lone hocar pits y  208 
London     Missionary     Society     (sec     Missionary 

Societies) 
Lovebird  of  the  Upper  Shire,  33  j 
Lower  Shire  District,  98,  1 10,  154,  463 
Lualaba  R.,  64,  156,  303 
Luangwa  R.,  40,  45,  46,  61,  62,  64,  72,  77,  82, 

89,  156,  158.  286,  298,  320,  390-1 
Luapula  (District),  119  ;  River,  47,  60,  61, 64,  65, 

212,  213.  389 
Lubiaa,  71 

Luemba  (vide  Emlm,  Lu-) 
Lugard,  Major,  74 
Lujenda  R.,  47,  58,  391 

Lunda,  59;  Lunda,  A-,  76,  212,  389,  419,  468 
Lungu,  A- ;  Ki-,  389,  417,  464-5,  4S4,  and 

Vocabularies 
Lusewa,  64 

Lu-wemba  [vide  Lu-emba) 
LycaoHy  286,  290 
Lydekker,  Mr.,  303 
Lynx,  Caracal ;  lynxes,  285,  289 

Macdonald,  Rev.  Duff",  68,  412,  416,  444 

Machilla  (hammock  or  chair),  91,  149 

Mackenzie,  Bishop,  6 1,  69 

Mackinnon,  Sir  Wm.,  67 

Maclear,  Cape,  70,  134 

Madness  in  natives,  477 

Madagascar,  156,  179,  184,  364 

Magistrates,  114 

Maguire,  Captain  C.  M.,  98,  99,  et  seq.^  (death  of) 

103-4;  105,  109,  121,  125 
Maguire,  Fort,  103,  126 
Magwangwara,  70.  39 1 -2,  455 
Maize,  182,  426,  429,  436,  et  seq, 
Makandanji,  loo,  loi 
Makanga  country,  290 
Makanjira,  76,  102.  103-4,  107,  121,  124-5,  i^» 

135»443»  446,447,  471 
Makanjira  Fund,  97,  121 
Makololo,  the,  66,  69,  77,  83,  84,  156,  391-2 

,,        Livingstone's,  65,  66,  69 
Makua,  the,  391 
Makua  (porters,  soldiers),  83,  91,  116,  117,  118, 

123,  331 
Makua  language,  134,  485  and  Vocabularies 
Malachite,  51 
Malay  archii>elago,  211 
'Malemia,  chief^  129,  131 
Malindi,  55,  57,  58 
Mallows,  7 
Malo  Island,  69 


INDEX 


539 


Malombe,  Lake,  46,  60 
Mambwe,  A-,  72,  95,  389,  4i7 

,,         Ki-,  484  and  Vocabularies 
Mandala,  dT^  176 
Mangoche  Mt.,  134,  146,  189 
Manioc  (see  Cassava) 
Manis,  321,  371 

Manning,  Captain  W.  H.,  118,  121,  131,  146 
Mantis,  196,  371-3 

Manyema  language,  484  and  Vocabularies 
Mafianja,  A-  and  Ci-,  66,  176,  390,  440,  485  and 

Vocabularies 
Maflanja  Hills,  233 
Maples,  Bishop  Chauncy,  70,  94 
Marabu  storks,  27 
Maravi,  57,  62 

Marimba,  District  of,  154,  177 
Marriage  Customs  (see  Customs) 
Marsh,  Elephant,  47,  84,  303.  320,  328 

,,       Morambala, 

„       i>apyrus,  17 

,,       Pinda, 
Marshes,  47 

Mashonaland,  ruined  cities  of,  53 
Maskat,  62,  155 

Massage  amongst  the  natives,  440 
MataWe,  62,  146 
Matipwiri,  107,  119,  120,  130,  132,  133-4,  189, 

451 
Matope,  107,  117 
Mauni  Hill,  134 

Ma2siro  dialect,  484  and  Vocabularies 
Mazbi  Sikhs,  98,  1 18 
Mbewe  (Makololo  town),  84 
Mbo,  Ci-,  484  and  Vocabularies  (see  Ambo) 
McClounie,  Mr.  J.,  233 
McDonald,  Mr.  H.  C,  318,  326 
McEwan,  Mr.,  104,  124,  144,  154 
McMaster,  Mr.  J.  E.,  126 
Medicines,  native,  440,  el  seq, 
Meller,  Mr.  J.  C,  233 
Menyharth.  Rev.  L.,  234 
Merere  of  Usango,  72 
Mfiti,  446-7 
Michesi  Mt.,  119,  295 
Military  Forces  of  Protectorate,  118 
Milk,  203,  432,  437 
Millet,  426,  429»  437 
Millipede,  364-5 
Mimosas,  216 

Miners,  gold,  word-picture  of,  19,  et  seq. 
Misale,  49.  57 

Mission   doctor,    19,   21  ;   pupils,   28,    197,    198, 
202 
,,       Station,  word-picture  of,  193,  et  seq. 
,,       Work,    disappointments    of,   203,    204 ; 

results  of,  204 ;  successes  of,  204-5 »  industrial 

teaching  of,  205 
Missions,  Christian,  189,  et  seq. 
Missionaries,    108,   130,   190,  et  seq.   (too  great 

asceticism  oO,  201 
Missionary  hospitality,  201 
Missionary  Societies :  Church  of  Scotland,  66,  67, 

130,  160,  189 ;  Dutch  Reformed  Church,  189 ; 

Free  Church  of  Scotland  (Livingstonia),  66^  70, 

'35»    189;    French  Catholic  (Algerian),    189 ; 

French  Evangelical,  77,   190;  Jesuit  Mission, 

189;  London,  70,  71,  95,  189;  Nyasa  Baptist 


Industrial,  189 ;  Universities*,  61,  63,  69,  70, 

77,     189,     198 ;     {vide    Universities),     201  ; 

Zambezi  Industrial,  189 
Missionary's  wife.  A,  195,  et  seq. 
Misuko  trees,  29,  220,  222,  224,  226 
Mkanda,  120 
Mlanje  cedar,  12,  et  seq.^  i$o,  232 

,,       district,  154,  189 

,,       mountain,  12,  et  seq.,  17,  39,  42-3,  48,  5'» 

107.  119.  150,295,  332 
Mlauri,  69,  84,  et  seq. 
Mlozi,  72,  74,  135,  137,  et  seq. ;  (wounded),  141 ; 

(captured),  142  ;  (tried  and  exeaited),  143,  145 
Mozambique,  55,  58,  82,  88 ;  (Governor  of),  88, 

118,  15b,  285,  391,  485 
Mocha  coffee,  161 
Moir,  Lake,  46 

„      Mr.  Fred  M.,  67,  74,  75,  i6i 

„      Mr.  John,  67,  69,  74.  85,  86,  161 
Moma  R.,  156 

Money  introduced  into  B.C. A.,  149 
Monitor  lizard,  356,  460,  464 
Monkey,  Co/obus,  2S87 
Monkeys,  287 
Monkey  Bay,  124 
Monomotapa,  56 
Monteiro  and  Gamitto,  60 
**  Monlisi,"  72 
Molluscs,  363 
Moore,  Mr.  J.,  363 
Morambala  Mt.,  82,  165 

„  marsh,  47,  165 

Mosques,  56 

Mosquito,  H. M.S.,  98,  117 
Mosquitoes,  375-6 
Mosses,  281 

Mother-in-law,  superstitions  concerning,  415 
Moths.  368,  384 
Mountain  (birds),  II ;  (climbing  a  ),  4, 

(flora),  10,  II.  14;  (plateaux),  10 
Mountains  of  B.C.  A.,  altitudes  of,  45;  aspects  of, 

9;  geology  of,  48;  of  Portuguese  East 

Africa,  134; 
M[>ata  (Mlozi's  town),  74 
Mpatamanga  (see  Botanical  Appendix,   Chapter 

viii.) 
'Sl^Xssi^  footnote y  p.  86 
Mpemba,  144 
Mpezeni,  49,  158,  468 
Mpimbi,  116 
Mponda,  65,  83,  90,  96,  100,  et  seq.,  105,  et  seq., 

107,  134-5.  446 
Msalemu,  137,  et  seq, 
Msamara,  90,  105,  441 
Msiri,  89 
'*Muanza"   (name  given   to  Lower  Congo  and 

Cameroon s),  61 
*'Muavi"  (poison  ordeal),  224,  441,  442,  448, 

450,  469 

Mucuna  bean,  321,  428 

Mudi  R.,  176 

Muhammadan  Sepoys,  Indians,  64,  104,  105,  117 
„  Yao,  6j,  76 

Murchison  Falls,  38,  65 
I      Music,  native,  468 
I      Musical  instruments,  464,  et  seq. 

Mwasi  Kazungu,  144 
I      Mwera  (south-east  wind),  17 


540 


BRITISH   CENTRAL   AFRICA 


Mwcru  (District),  1 19,  306, 312,  321 ;  (Lake),  39, 
46, 48,  59, 60, 61  (discovery  of ),  64 ;  148, 234,  290 
Mweru  Salt  Swamp,  46,  51 

Namasi  R.,  171 

Names,  absurd — given  to  Mission  children,  203 

Nandinia,  285,  290 

Natives  of  B.C.  A.,  182,  389,  ei  seq,  ;  see  Negroes, 
Central  African  (Bantu) 

Native  contingent,  134,  152 

Naval  service,  B.C. A.,  153 

Ndirande  Mt.,  107 

Negri  tic  group,  54 

Negro  culture  retrograde,  55,  183,  472 

Negroes,  future  of  the,  182,  472  ;  proper  attitude 
towards,   183-4;  West  Indian,  203;  tendency 

of  to  relapse  into  savagery,  202,   203 ; 

distribution  of  true ,  3000  years  ago,  54 ; 

uniformity  of  type  of,  392-3 ;  carelessness  and 
indifference  in  cultivating  plants  and  domestica- 
ting animals,  429 

Negroes,  Central  African  (Bantu),  physical  des- 
cription of,  392,  it  seq, ;  uniformity  of  type,  393 ; 
colour  of  sicin,  393-4 ;  albinism,  394 ;  exuda- 
tions of  skin,  395 ;  eyes,  396 ;  physiognomy, 
396 ;  lips,  396 ;  chin,  397 ;  hair  on  face,  397, 
on  body,  398,  on  head,  398 ;  ear,  398 ;  breasts, 
398-9 ;  sexual  organs,  399 ;  buttocks,  399 ; 
hands  and  feet,  399;  height  and  other  body 
measurements,  400,  403  ;  voice,  403  ;  power  of 
withstanding  cold  and  heat,  403 ;  strength, 
speed,  and  endurance,  404 ;  muscular  develop- 
ment, 404-$  ;  physical  feats,  405-6 ;  postures 
and  movements  of  body,  406 ;  methods  of 
carrying  loads,  406-7  ;  salutations,  407  ;  ex- 
pression of  face  and  disposition,  407 ;  intelli- 
gence, 408;  relative  "uxoriousness,"  indecent 
dances.  4C^ ;  lack  of  chastity,  408,  409 ; 
Ethnology  of,  409,  et  seq.  ;  see  Ethnology, 
and  also  Customs,  Religion,  Domestic  animals. 
Cultivated  plants 

Negroes,  past  and  future  of  the,  472 
,,       diseases  of  the,  473,  et  seq. 

Negroid  Races,  393 

New  York  Herald,  65 

Npindo,  Ci-,  485  and  Vocabularies 

Nicholson,  Admiral,  108,  109 

NicoU,  John  L.,  72,  82,  90,  95,  97,  109 

Nigerian  Sudan,  Niger,  453,  469 

Nightingale,  332 

Nile,  65,  182,  479 

Nilgai,  309 

Nilotic  negroes,  479 

Nkata  Bay,  154 

Nkonde  (country),  72,  390 
,,       (languages),  390,  480 

Awa-,  Wa-  (people),  72,  73,  139,  141, 
I43»  390,  399,  4I5»  417-9.  423-4,  430-1,  443-4, 
445,  451,  452,  454 

North  Nyasa,  94,  154,  471 

Nsese  R.  (Botanical  Appendix,  pp.  233-283) 

Nunes,  Vice-Consul,  68 

Nutt,  Mr.,  234 

Ntixia,  228 

Nyamwezi,  Ki-  (language  :  also  vide  Sukuma,  Ki-), 
Vocabularies 
Wa-,  392,  404 
„  Wa-  (country),  67,  157 


Nyanja  (the  true  name  of  Laka  Nyasa),  61 

„       A-,  62,  99,  119,  145,  390,  417,  419,  422, 

424,  443,  444,  446-7,  471 
Nyanja,  Ci-,  484-5  and  Vocabularies 
Nyanza,  61  (T^/V<f  Victoria  Nyanza,  Albert  Nyanza), 
Nyasa,  I-ake,   17,  18,  38,  45,  48,  52,  60;  (first 

discovery  of),  61,  71,  94,  102,  148.  153,  360 
Nyasa  steamers,  gunboats,  17,  109,  138,  153 
Nyasa-Tanganyika  Plateau,  72,  95,  135,  145,  149, 

189,  234 
Nyasaland,  55,  62,  65,  68,  71,  80,  88,  286,  288, 

317,318 
Nyaserera,  119,  120 

Nyih*a  (Nyixa  or  Nyika),  language.  Vocabularies 
Nyika  Plateau,  45 

„       A-,  390 

Oceana  Co.,  181 

Octodont  rodent,  an,  291 

Odete,  146 

Oil  palm,  35,  212,  222,  428 

Oil  seeds,  182,  222,  428 

"Old  man's  beard"  lichen,  10 

Oldfield  Thomas,  Mr.,  288,  311,  322,  324,  325 

'Oman,  62,  71 

O'Neill,  Consul,  74 

OpisthocomtiSy  333 

Orange,  427,  429 

Orchids,  210,  211 

,,        Ground,  7,  210,  211 
Orchilla  lichen,  10 
Ordeal  for  witchcraft,  etc.,  441,  468 
Oribi,  311 
Orioles,  330-1,  348 
Orthography,  486 
Orthoptera,  371,  380 
Orycteropus,  285,  321,  371 
Oryx,  285,  314.  317 
Osmunda  fern,  220 
Osprey,  346,  352 
Ostrich,  285,  286,  329,  347 
Oswell,  Mr.  (the  explorer),  60 
Otogale,  287 
Otter,  290 
Ourebia,  311,329 
Outfit  needed  for  B.C. A.,  164  and  Appendix  II., 

chap,  vi.,  pp.  186-188 
Owls,  337,  351 ;  the  eagle  owl,  337,  447 
Ox,  oxen,  309  (see  Cattle) 
Ox-pecker  {Buphaga\  330 

Pallah  or  Impala,  318,  329 ;  Johnston's 318, 

326 

Palm  wine,  437 

Palms,  Borassus,  I,  213,  214,  231,  428 
„      Cocoanut,  23,  213,  217 
„      Wild  Date,  2,  174,  213,  217,  230 
„      Hyphiene,  29,  213,  214,  231,  292,  459 
,»      Oil,  35,  213,  428-9;  Raphia,  174,  212 

Papaw  tree,  427,  429 

Papio  pruiftosuSy  286-7 

Papyrus,  17,  26,  219 
„       Marsh,  17 

Paradoxure  (Nandinia)^  290 

Parinarium  trees,  4,  220,  224,  226,  230,  428,  456 

Parkia,  231 

Parra,  343 

Parrots,  333-4,  351 ;  (grey  parrot,  334) 


INDEX 


541 


Pay  of  native  labourers,  168 
PeUU  ring,  423-4 
Pelicans,  343,  353 
Pepfjers,  red  and  green,  428-9 
Pereiras,  the,  59 
Perissodactyla,  291 
Persia,  Persians,  155-6,  159 
Petre,  Sir  George,  8i 
Petrodromus^  288 

Pettitt,  Messrs. :  Mr.  Harry 84,  292 

Phacochcerusy  296,  298,  329 

Phillips,  Lieutenant-Commander,  138 

Phragmites  reed,  217,  291 

Physiological    description    of    the    Negro    (see 

Negro) 
Pigs,  296,  429  (see  Bush  pig  and  Wart  hog) 
Pigeons,  344,  354,  434 
Pinda  Marsh,  38 
Pineapple,  429 
Pioneer,  H.M.S.,  124 
Pipes,  459,  461 
Pipits,  331 
Pisiia  straiioifSf  17 
Planters,  European,  160,  163,  ei  srq. 
Plantation  (clearing  of),  169 
Plovers,  27,  343,  354 
Pocock,  Mr.  R.  I.,  365 
PcecUogaUy  290 
Paocfphaius^  334 
Poles  (Austrian),  146-7 
Polyboroides  typicus  (naked-cheeked  Hawk),  346, 

352 
Polyglotia  Afncana^  156 
Poole,  Dr.  Wordsworth,  136,  138,  143,  179 
Population  of  B.C. A.  Protectorate,  146-7 
Porcupine,  291 
Porphyrio,  337 
Porridge,  native. 
Port  Herald,  117,  125,  154,  165 
Portal,  Sir  Gerald,  91,  118 
Portuguese,  52,  56,  59,  63,  82,  88,  147,  155,  157, 

201   (hospitality  of),  201 ;   391,  426,  429,  434 
Portuguese  Foreign  Office,  81 
„  Government,  88 

, ,  half-castes  ("  Black  Portuguese  "),  59, 

69,  156.  391 
Portuguese  East  Africa;    Zambezia,  59,  78,  81, 

134,  156-7,  292,  318,  377 
Postage  stamps  of  B.C.  A.,  129,  149 
Postal  service  of  B.C.  A.,  148,  171 

Potatoes,  427,  429;  Sweet ,  427,  429 

PotamocharuSy  296-7,  329 
Pottery,  native,  459 

,,  ,,      old,  dug  up  near  Lake  Nyasa,  55, 

459 
Poultry,  182 

Pozo,  Ci-,  485  and  Vocabularies 
Pratincoles,  27 
Prefixes,  Bantu  (see  Bantu) 
Printing  at  Zomba,  205 
Procavia^  291 
Protea,  II,  223,  428 
Protehs,  285 

Protectorate  (proclamation  of  British),  86,  96,  147 
Protoptenis^  359 
Pscitdo^Qps,  285 
PterocarpHSy  209,  220 
PUrocles,  344,  352 


Puff-adder,  359 

Puku  antelope,  286,  312-3;  Senga  Puku,  312, 

329 
Pumpkins,  329,  426,  427 
Python,  359 

Qua^,  285,  295-6 

Quail,  351 

Quartz,  48,  50,  51 

Quebraba^o  rapids,  60 

Queen,  H.M.  the,  25,  91 

**  Queen's  Regulations,"  154 

Quelimane,  55,  60,  78,  82,  148,  156,  391,  485 

Rails,  27,  337 

Rain,  42  ;  **  rain-makers,"  451-2 

Rainfall  of  B.C. A.,  36,  42 

Rainy  season,  39,  42,  170 

Ramakukane,  69 

Rankin,  Mr.  D.,  69,  79,  81 

Raphia  (see  Palms) 

Raphicerus  sharpH^  309,  310,  329 

Raptorial  birds,  337,  344,  352 

Rat,  291 

Ratel,  290 

Raven,  great  billed,   ii,   330;    black  and 

white,  330 
Reed  buck,  311,  312,  329 
Reeds,  3,  209,  217 
Religion  of  the  Natives,  449,  et  stq, 
Rendall,  Dr.  Percy,  287,  288,  322-4 
Revenue  of  B.  C.  A. ,  1 50 
Rhinoceros,  292,  328 

,,  horns,  182,  292 

Rhoades,  Lieutenant-Commander,  138,  360 
Rhodes,  Right  Hon.  Cecil  J.,  81,  117,  121,  129 

„       Herbert,  67 
Rhynchocyon,  286,  288 
Rice,  426,  429,  437 
Rifu,  124 

River,  word-picture  of  a,  I 
Roads  made  oy  Administration,  1 14,  149 


Road-making,  114,  153 
Roan  Antelope,  317-8, 


329 


Robberies,  Highway,  107,  108,  1.^2,  149 
Robertson,  Commr.  Hope,  109,  122 
Rodents  of  B.C. A.,  290 
RoUers,  336,  351 

Roman  Catholic  Missionaries,  200,  201 
Roscher,  Dr.  Ernest,  64 
Ross,  Mr.  A.  Carnegie,  97 
Rubber,  160,  182,  226,  464 
Rufiji  R.,  285,  286,  329 
Rugaruga,  158,  392 
Rukuru,  R.,  137,  et  seq. 
Rukwa,  I^ke,  45,  95,  390,  484 
Ruo  District,  154 
„     River,  58,  83,  87,  292,  390;  Falls  of,  40; 

Upper  Ruo,  43 
Ruvuma  R.,  58,  62,  324,  391,  480,  485 

S ,  Mr.,  85 

Salxtans,  54 

Sable  Antelope,  4,  286,  317,  329 

Sacred  Ibis,  27,  342 

Sahara  desert,  2S0 

Saidi  Mwazungu,  102,  104,  144,  154 

Salisbury,  Lord,  80,  88,  96,  109 

Salt,  51,438.471 


542 


BRITISH   CENTRAL  AFRICA 


Salt,  manufocture  of,  51  I 

Sand-grous^  329.  344  I 

Sandpipers,  27  I 

Sandstone,  48  1 

Sansevieria^  182,  223  | 

Sarcidicrnis  (knob-nosed  duck  or  goose),  26,  338        1 
Scenery  of  B.C.  A.,  35 
Schizorhis,  333 
Sclater,  Capt.  B.  L.,  97,  106,  107,  108,  112, 114,      | 

117 
Sclater,  Mr.  P.  L.,  292 
Scopus  umbrdtay  342 
Scorpions,  364-5 
Scotch,  the,  147 
,,      Missions,  66 
„      Settlers,  147 
Scotland,  Church  of,  Mission,  66,  67,  130 
Scott,  Rev.  D.  C.  Ruffele,  68,  85,  415-6,  440, 

447,  453»  459,  468,  486 
Scott,  Mr.  L.,  233 
Scott- Elliot,  Mr.,  233 
Seamen,  excellence  of  native,  457 
Seasons,  Rainy  and  Dry,  39,  40,  211 
Secretary  to  the  Administration,  152 
Secretary  Vulture,  285,  329,  337,  346 
Selous,  Mr.,  77,  292 
Semitic  (races),  54 

„      (tongues),  54 
Sena,  83  ;  Ci-,  484-5  and  Vocabularies 
Senegambia,  286,  329,  346 
Senga  country,  72,  141,  156 

,,     pitku  (antelope),  329 
Senga,  Ba-,  A-,  Ci-,  390,  484  and  Vocabularies 
Serpa  Pinto,  Colonel,  53,  81,  et  seq.,  86,  88,  233 
Serpents  (see  Snakes) 
Serpentarius  (see  Secretary  \'ulture) 
Serval  cat,  288,  289 
Sesamum  plant  and  oil,  223,  428-9 
Settlers,  European,  113 
Seven-pounder  gim,  102,  105,  106,  122,  134 
Sharpe,  Mr.  Alfred,  45,  74,  89,  97,  107-8,  112, 

116,   119,   122,   124,   126,   130,   132,   146,  212, 

291,  296,  310,  326,  450 
Sharrer,  Mr.,  77,  147,  161 
Sharrer's  Traffic  Co.,  176,  j8i 
Sheep,  182 
Shells,  363 

Shikulombwe,  Ba-,  77 
Shire  Highlands,  27,  45,  48,  61,  62,  66,  77,  88, 

130,  170.  234 
Shire  Highlands  Shooting  Club,  170 

,,     Province, 

„     River,  3,  38,   58,  60,   149,   165,   390  {vuie 

West  Shire,  Lower  Shire,  Upper  Shire) 
Shrews,  286,  288  ;  Elephant,  288 
Shrikes,  349 

Siege  of  ^llozi*s  stockade,  1 38- 1 40 
Sikhs,  the,  28,  30,  98,  102,  103-4,  105,  117,  118, 

120,  123,  124,  129,  130,  141,  152 
Silva  Porto,  60 
Silver,  57 

Simpson,  Mr.  A.  C,  66,  84 
Situtunga  (Speke*s  Tragelaph),  286,  305,  ei  seq.^ 

329 
Slavery,  149,  155.  156 
Slave  States  in  W.  India,  155 
Slaves,  31,  155 
Slave-sticks,  31,  158 


Slave-trade  149  ;  (worst  horrors  of),  155-6 
Slave-traders,  115,  119;  (of  ancient  times),  155*: 

(American),  156 
Slugs,  363 
Smilax  yam,  221 
Smith,  Lieut.  G.  de  Henries,  136,  et  seq.^  141 

„      Mr.  Edgar  A.,  363 
Smythies,  Bishop,  70,^ 
Snails,  363 

Snakes.  356,  359,  362 
Snipe,  343,  354 
Soapstone,  48 
Somaliland,  Somalis,  54,  56,  62,  63,  285,  295, 

298 
Songwe  River,  94,  303 
Sorcery,  441-2,  446,  et  seq. 
Sorghum.  426,  429,  436 
South   Africa  Chartered   Company  (see   British, 

etc.) 
South  Africans  in  B.C. A.,  147 
South  Nyasa  District,  109,  149 
Spathodea,  210 
Speke,  Captain,  63 

Speke's  Tragelaph  (see  Tragelaphus  spekei) 
Spiders,  364-5 

Sport  (big  game  shooting),  1 71 
Spring  foliage,  tints  of,  4 
Stairs,  Captain,  89,  114,  115 
Stanley,  Mr.  H.  M.,  65,  66 
Starke,  Mr.,  131 
Starlings  (Glossy),  3.;o,  348 
Steamers  (on  Lake  Nyasa),  ^^  70,  109 

,,        (on  Rivers  Shire  and  Zambezi),  98,  109, 

147 
,,        (on  Lake  Tanganyika),  70,  75 
Steere,  Bishop,  70 
Stevenson,  Mr.  (Gilbert,  105,  116 
,,  Mr.  James,  71 

,,  ,,  the   (Steamer)  {sec/ofnes 

S terpen  son) 
Stevenson  Road,  71 
Stewart,  Mr.  James,  67 
Stewart,  Captain  F.  T.,  136,  144,  146 
Stick-insects,  373 
Stilt-plover,  343,  354 
Siipa  grass,  213 
Stockade,  Mlozi's,  1 37,  et  seq. 
Storks,  black  {Anastomus),  27,  342 

„        saddle-billed  [Mycteria),  17,  342 

,,       marabu,  27,  342 

„      (generaUy),  353 
Stork,  H.M.S.,  82 
Strawberries  at  Zomba,  174 
String,  native,  459 

Strophanthus  drug,  182,  224-5,  440-1 
Strychnos,  226,  428 
Sudan,  329,  346,  379,  453 
Sudanese,  117 

Sugar,  sugar-cane,  182,  427,  429 
Sultan,  Arab,  23,  24,  31 

,,       of  ZanzilMur,  76,  90,  118 
Sunbirds,  347 
^us  genus,  297 
Swahili  (people),  64,  91,  104 

„       (language),  478,  479,  486 
Swallows;  332,  350 
Swann,  Mr.  A.  J.,  95,  96,  97,  ^44 
Swifts,  334,  350 


INDEX 


543 


Swine  (vide  Sus,  Wart  hog,  Bush  pig,  Phacachanis, 

and  Poiamochamis)^ 
Syndactyia,  the,  335 

Taberttipmoniana,  226 

Tamarind,  226 

Tambala,  144,  154 

Tanganyika,    Lake,    25,    39,    45,    48.    52,    60; 

(discovery  of)  63;  (South' end  oO  64,  70,  71, 

95i  96;  (North  end  of)  96 ;  148,  189,  234,  285, 

360,  484 
Tanganyika,  Lake,  Birds  on,  26,  27,  342 
,,  ,,        Marine  Fauna  of,  363 

,,  District,  119 

Tasmanians,  396 
Tax,  Gun,  iii 
Tax,  Hut,  III,  150 
Taxation,  ill,  150 
Taylor,  Mr.  G.  A.,  145,  318 
Tea,  160 

Teak,  African,  223 
Teal,  26 

Temperance  in  Tropical  Africa,  180- 1 
Temperature,  high,  40,  41  ;  low,  41 
Tephrosia,  210,  429 
Temiites,  174,  370,  371 
Terns,  26,  344 
Tete,  57,  60,  62,  484 
Therapeutics,  native,  477  (see  Ethnology) 
Thomson,  Mr.  Joseph,  46,  70,  90,  118,  233 
Thrushes,  331-2,  349 
Ticks,  364-5 

Tiger-cat  {Felts  serval),  288,  289 
Timber,  182 
Times  newspaper,  79,  81 
Tiputipu  (Tippoo-tib),  76 
Tits,  Titmice,  348 
Tobacco,  160,  182,  427,  429 
Tomatoes,  427,  429 
Tonga,  Ci-,  484  and  Vocabularies 

„      Wa-,  A-,  390,  486 ;  Ba-  (Batoka),  390,  391 ; 

see  Atonga 
Tortoises,  356,  361 
Trachylohiumy  220,  226 
Trade  (among  natives),  177,  182 

,,     goods,  182 
Traders,  177,  181 

Tragelaphs,  the  ( Tragilapkifuc)^  303,  305-6 
Tragelaphus  angasij  305,  et  seq.^  329- 
, ,  scriptus,  305,  et  seq. ,  329 

„  spekei,  286,  305,  etseq.,  314,  329 

Traps.  435 

Treaties  with  native  chiefs,  81,  86,  94,  113 
Treatment  of  Black- water  fever,  180 
Trees,  Forest,  216 

,,     Useful  trees  of  B.C.  A.,  224,  et  seq. 
Tree-ducks,  26 
Tree-ferns,  7 
Tree-lilies,  ii,  211 
Trogon,  335,  350 

TroUope,  Major  Frank,  136,  et  seq.,  14 1,  318 
Tropical  vegetation,  2 
Tsessebe  antelope,  286,  309,  326,  329 
Tsetse  Fly,  56,  64,  367,  377,  et  seq, 
Tumbuka.  Ba-,  390,  484 
Tundu  Hill,  133 
Turaco,  7,  8,  333,  350 
Tusks,  Elephants',  291-2 


Uapaca  kirkiana,  220,  224,  226,  227,  428 

Uganda,  295  ^ 

Ujiji,  64,  71 

Umbre,  Tufted  {Scopus), 

Universities  Mission  to  Central  Africa,  6r,  63,  69, 

70,  n,  159,  189,  198,  201 
Unyanyembe,  64 
Unyamwezi  (see  Nyamwezi,  Wu-) 
Upper  Congo,  65 

Upper  Shire,  115,  149;  (District),  154 
Upper  Zambezi,  77,  234,  285 
Urquhart,  Mr.,  103-4 
Usnea  lichen,  10 

Varanus  lizards,  356,  460,  464 

Vasco  da  Gama,  55 

Vegetable  earth,  48 

Vegetation,    tropical,    2,    35 ;    (graceful),    213 ; 

(malicious),  220 
Vellozia  splentlens^  211 
Vespentgo,  288 
Vicenti,  78 
Victoria  Nyanza,  63 
Victoria  Falls,  233 
Village,  native,  456 

,,       word-picture  of,  19,  20 
Villiers,  Lieutenant,  R.N.,  124 
Vitexy  223,  224,  227 
Vitisy  221 

Vocabularies  of  B.C.  A.  languages,  488,  et  seq. 
Volcanoes,  48 
Volcanic   lavas,  48 

,,        tuffs,  48 
Vultures,  285,  329,  344,  352 

„         relative  scarcity  of  in  B.C. A.,  344 

Wages,  native,  168 

Wagtails,  331,  348 

Waller,  Rev.  Horace,  48 

Wankonde  (see  Nkonde,  Wa-), 

War  (word-picture  of  a),  30,  31 ;  native  methods 

of,  469,  470,  471 
Warblers,  African,  332,  349 
Wart  Hog,  296,  298,  329 
Wasps,  374 ;  Mason  wasps,  374 
Water  lilies,  3 

Waterbuck  {Cobus),  312,  313,  329 
Watson,  Dr.  A.  B.,  105,  106,  122 
Wax,  182 
Waxbills,  33'»  348 
Weapons,  native,  462 
Weasels,  290 

Weatherley,  Mr.  Poulett,  39,  46,  326- 
Weaver-birds,  331,  348 
Weaving,  457 
Wells,  Mr.  H.  G.,  366 
Welsh  in  B.C. A.,  147 
Wemba,  A-  (see  Awemba,  Emba) 
West  Africa,  35,  42,  55 

,,     Indians,  Indies,  203 

,,     Nyasa  District,  49,  112,  154 

„     Shire  District,  49,  51,  154 
Wheat,  182,  426 
Wheeler,  Mr.  Wm.,  107 
Whicker,  Mr.  F.  J.,  117 
Whisky,  19,  21,  168,  1 71 

While  men  in  a  native  village  (word-picture  of),  19 
White-ants  (see  Termites) 


544 


BRITISH   CENTRAL   AFRICA 


Whyte,  Mr.  Alexander,   97,   119,    150- 1,  212, 

330 
Widdrin^oma  Whytei^  12,  13,  150- 1,  224 
Widow-birds,  331 
Wildebeest  (see  Gnu) 
Winds,  prevailing,  42 

Win  ton,  Mr.  W.  E.  de,  295,  297,  298,  319 
IVissfttann,  s.s.  Hermann  von^  137 
Wissmann,  Major  von,  1 10 
Witch,  witchcraft,  wizards,  441,  446,  et  seq.^  451 
Women,  European,  in  Africa,  177,  199,  200 

,,        as  missionaries,  198^  et  seq. 

,,       native,  20,  470  (succession  through  the), 

471 
Woodcock,  343,  354 
Woodpeckers,  332,  350 
Worms,  365,  473.  47^ 

Xantkarpyia,  288 
Xanthism,  394,  396 

Yao,  Wa-,  61,  62,  77,  99, 119,  131,  157,  391,  394, 

397,  404,  416.  444-5.  470,  471 
Yao,  Muhammadan,  61,  447 

„     land,  62 

„     language,  485-6 
Young,  Lieut.,  65 
Yule,  Mr.,  145,  289,415-6 


Zambezi,  55,  56,  59,  60,  63  (Chinde,  mouth  of), 
63  (Delta  oO,  63,  65,  78,  79,  89  (slave  trade  of), 
156,  165,  182,  189,  190,  234,  285,  329,  390-1 

Zambezia,  63,  183,  303 

„         Portuguese,  59,  78,  8',  156,  292 

Zambezi  expedition  (Livingstone's),  60,  63 


(Upper),  77,.234,  285,  286 
Industrial  Mis 


i  Mission  (vide  Missionaries) 
Zanzibar,  62,  67,  71,  78,  91,  148,  478 
,,        Sultan  of,  76,  90-1,  118 
,,        Arabs,  118 
Zanzibaris,  lOO,  117,  1 18 
Zarafi,  loi,  105,  106,  130,  132,  134,  146,  451 
Zebra,  285,  292,  et  seq.^  329 
Zebras,  classi^cation  of,  292,  295-6 
Zoa,  114 

Zomba,  39,  41,  130.  149,  154,  370 
,,       Mountain,  45,  330 
,,       Residency,  130 
Zoography  of  Africa  (distribution    of  animals), 

285-6 
Zoological  Society,  Gardens,  288. 298, 310, 318, 336 
Zulu  (language),  480,  486  and  Vocabularies 
„     (people),  62,  156 
,,     (soldiers),  83 
Zululand,  62,  156 
Zumbo,  57,  58,  391 
Zygodactyly  development  of  fruit-pigeon,  344 


/  ^ 


TLYMOUTH 

WILLIAM    HKKNUON    AND   SON 

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